Glamour in the

Glamour in the Golden Age of Jazz

Your comprehensive guide to the iconic style and

etiquette of the

Gods of Hollywood

and how to acquire your authentic 1930s

movie star looks

and apparel

With style tips from

Camilla Morton and www.grahambrowne.co.uk www.camillamorton.com

1

Return to the Age of Romance

Men’s formal evening wear may play a starring role in enhancing its wearer but its part in enhancing a special occasion is very much a supporting one. Echoing a romantic chivalry of days gone by, the black and white uniform is deliberately designed to act as an unassuming backdrop for the radiant couture and sensuous décolletage displayed by guests of the fairer sex.

2

Night in the 1930s means

Glamour, Decadence and Dancing

This is not fancy dress. This is not simple dressing up – this is Puttin’ on the Ritz…

Think: Jean Harlow, Bette Davis, Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers, Clark Gable and Carole Lombard to Glenn Miller, Howard Hughes, Gershwin and young Frank Sinatra.

Immerse yourself in the glamour through classic movies:

Morocco, 1930 starring Marlene Dietrich

The Great Gatzby, 1974 with Farrow and Redford and the remake of 2012 with DiCaprio

The Aviator, 2004 with its all star cast

3

Bewitching Beauty

Ladies – Hair was lacquered and curled, more of a glossed glam than we get to do in the everyday so treat yourself, make an appointment at your trusted hairdresser and get it set in curls, an up-do, kiss curls like Jean Harlow, Carole Lombard or Ginger Rogers and I promise this will crown however you style yourself and help you to get ‘In The Mood’.

4

Enduring Glances

Eyebrows are arched, nails would be a red to match the lips… think of the black and white starlets and add the colour and panache of a yester-era with the sophistication of today.

5

Back stairs and love affairs

The Great Gatsby, published mid twenties, war was on its way but people wanted to forget this so Gatsby’s love affair with Daisy Buchanan led the way to the 30s for soft silhouettes, long hems, and evenings out – and even the high street Hobbs and Jigsaw have been inspired by the beading and the looks of Gatsby (with the upcoming film remake, and last summer’s ‘Midnight in Paris’)

6

Let the music of the 1930s be your guide

Romance was the cue for the era so keep it as yours think Norman Hartnell dresses, Glenn Miller’s Moonlight Serenade or Ginger Rogers ‘Cheek to Cheek’ feather dress.

Savour the foot tapping rhythms, happy beats and clever (or in some cases risqué) lyrics of the hit tunes from the early 30s:

I’ve got rhythm; 42nd Street, Dream a little dream of me; The very thought of you; Minnie the moocher and Cheek to cheek.

Then begin to understand the irresistible allure of the golden age.

7

Become a star of the silver screen

The Movie Stars were the icons of the era – supermodels a latter invention, dress designers relatively low key – you want to channel your favourite movie star or character from a film, from the musicals to the red carpet.

8

Celebrate with style Fashion was feminine – silks, satins, long gloves, marabou furs. Vionnet had perfected the bias cut gown, Schiaparelli costume jewels and bold accessories, fashion was all about celebrating the silhouette, peacetime not war

For delicious costume jewelry try: www.minidiamond.com on Berwick Street, Soho and www.butlerandwilson.co.uk

9

Modern fabrics with retro stardom

To make the most of your entrance on the red carpet, explore the phenomenal lines at www.dressesonlinesale.co.uk www.ghost.co.uk and www.ralphlauren.co.uk. For vintage visit: www.circavintage.com

10

Chivalry, Competition and Good Manners

This was the era when Vivien Leigh was box office gold in ‘Gone with the Wind’, and her off-screen romance with Laurence Olivier was hotting up.

Ladies should think of Joan Fontaine and her great rivalry with her sister actress and beauty Olivia de Havilland.

Gentlemen wishing to win the heart of the Hollywood starlet require fine grooming, impeccable manners and irresistible charm.

11

Don’t be Shy. Be Dashing, Debonair and Well-Groomed

Gentlemen should be gentlemen – think of the courteous James Stewart, the charming Errol Flynn, the courageous Gary Cooper, and Humphrey Bogart and the well groomed Frank Sinatra at the start of their careers.

This was the time when the then dashing Prince of Wales would take Wallis Simpson dancing at the Café de Paris… while Clark Gable and Carole Lombard were the hottest most beautiful couple of Hollywood making Brad and Angelina seem low-key.

Hair is short, neatly parted and slick. The face is clean shaven or adorned with the classic pencil moustache. The skin irresistibly smooth from the traditional Barber's technique of repeating the wet shave with a reverse shave.

For more information or to experience the delight of a traditional shave visit www.tayloroldbondst.co.uk or www.harvieandhudson.com

12

Adhere to the Black & White code

Deviation from the code, however minor would detract from this ritual and was to be avoided out of politeness to other guests. Simple errors would include the wearing of fancy bow ties and colourful waistcoat more akin to a later age. For attire to avoid see: www.blacktieguide.com/Supplemental/Hall_of_Shame.htm

Throughout the 1930s and into the 1950s, white tie remained the most elaborate and dignified dress code and was reserved for the most prestigious occasions.

The attention to detail and minimal use of colour by gentlemen placed appropriate emphasis on the beauty of the fairer sex and provided a fitting backdrop to a dance or musical setting where the attention was given to those entertaining.

13

I just got an invitation through the mail: "Your presence requested this evening, It's formal, a top hat, a white tie and tails.“

Nothing now could take the wind out of my sails.

Because I'm invited to step out this evening

With top hat and white tie and tails.

I'm puttin' on my top hat Tyin' up my white tie Brushin' off my tails I'm dudein' up my shirt front Puttin' in the shirt studs Polishin' my nails.

Irving Berlin, Top Hat, 1935

Make a song and dance

Immortalised first by Marlene Dietrich in the 1930 hit movie Morocco, then as the classic score to the 1935 musical Top Hat, the white tie apparel has secured its rightful place in the sartorial hall of fame.

14

Deciphering the white tie code

The components are:

1. Black wool tailcoat & trousers

2. Stiff fronted full-dress shirt

3. The high winged collar

4. White Marcella cotton waistcoat

5. White Marcella cotton bow tie

6. Black patent leather shoes

7. Accessories

White tie is the most formal gentlemen's attire. The clean simplicity conceals the complexity of the look; the structure encouraging good deportment and an upright posture.

Dress tips are included below. For more information visit www.blacktieguide.com/White_Tie/White_Tie_Intro.htm

15

To hire or purchase your white tie

Good quality evening tailcoats and trousers (with or without the Marcella shirt, bow tie and waistcoat) can be purchased off the peg or hired from:

www.lipmanandsons.co.uk and

www.stanley-ley.co.uk.

For the ultimate in handmade bespoke tailoring for ladies and gentlemen, visit Graham Browne in the City of London.

Superior quality stiff fronted full dress shirts, detachable high collars, waist coats and accessories can be purchased from:

www.darcyclothing.com , www.stiffcollars.com and

www.buddshirts.co.uk

For rare, vintage suits visit www.tweedmansvintage.co.uk .

To immerse yourself in a world of 30s antiquity clothing and goods check out the three floors of: www.alfiesantiques.com

16

Purchasing the distinctive stiff fronted full-dress shirt

It is the detail of the shirt and high collar that provides the key to iconic style.

The full dress shirt in Marcella cotton has a stiff front bib and cuffs to give the wearer a unique sharpness unlike any other shirt. The stiff bib and single cuffs may be heavily starched along with the waistcoat.

These are worn with loose collars of up to 2 ¼” in height. Shirts of the finest quality are available from www.darcyclothing.com and www.BuddShirts.co.uk. Marcella dress shirts with attached wing collars with less height and firmness are available from Darcy Clothing, TM Lewin and other traditional shirt makers.

Traditional heavy starching is now only available from one company see: www.stiffcollars.com

Note: It is customary to show between a ½ and 1 inch of cuff beneath the sleeve of the jacket.

17

The full-dress winged collar – the ‘height’ of sartorial elegance

The detachable collar is something of a mystery to many today but was central to the gentleman’s wardrobe throughout the 1930s. The collar’s additional height provided a distinctive style and sophistication not afforded by other garments. These were favoured by the dapper middle classes and shorter collars were associated with waiting staff. The collar is affixed to the full dress shirt by a short rear stud and a long front stud. Starched collars are available from www.BuddShirts.co.uk and Hackett. These require special laundering. For smart high collars that are washable visit www.darcyclothing.com

18

The Marcella cotton full-dress waistcoat

The full dress waistcoat in Marcella cotton is the same fabric as the stiff shirt front and like the Marcella full dress shirt it may be heavily starched so as to be rigid www.stiffcollars.com. These are supplied with three mother of pearl buttons that are removed when washing. Available new from www.darcyclothing.com and www.BuddShirts.co.uk. Vintage and former hire items available from Stanley Ley, Middlesex Street, London E1 and Lipman & Sons. Traditional variations such as double breasted and low cut designs can be hand made by Graham Browne Bespoke Tailors.

Note: The bottom of the waistcoat should be in line with the tailcoat and not extend below.

19

The Marcella cotton full-dress bow tie

The Marcella cotton bow tie matches the full dress shirt front and may be self tied or ready made. Available from www.darcyclothing.com, TM Lewin and other good gentlemen’s outfitters.

Note: Avoid the temptation to wear a black bow tie with a tail coat as this is reserved for suave Sommeliers.

20

The Gentleman’s formal wear essentials

For both white tie and black tie, it is customary for gentlemen to wear braces to ensure the trousers retain their form and position beneath the waistcoat, especially for those sporting generous waistlines. The full dress shirt is worn with 2 or 3 studs. These are traditionally gold, mother of pearl or black onyx and can be inserted from behind the shirt bib using the breast pocket found on the traditional full dress shirt. Cufflinks should match. Shoes are plain oxford design in black patent leather. Socks are black silk, cotton or wool.

21

Gentlemen are permitted just a little colour & individuality

Under the black & white code gentlemen should not forget that their dates would have in the 30s been sent a corsage flower to wear (Orchid, Gardenia, Rose) either pinned to the hip or wrist. Ladies, see how in character your date is and you can wear a coordinating flower to the one in his button hole.

The gentleman may wear a white silk handkerchief in the breast pocket which can be folded or square in design.

Note: White tie generally permits the wearing of miniature decorations. These must be correctly presented. www.blacktieguide.com/Supplemental/Orders,Decorations.htm

22

Acceptable alternatives

Serving and former members of the armed forces are generally invited to wear their formal Mess Kit as an alternative to white tie and black tie. This is applicable to both ladies and gentlemen of the services. Gentlemen are permitted to wear highland dress.

23

The 1930s semi-white tie is an acceptable alternative

In the late 20s and early 30s, Cary Grant and Charlie Chaplin were among the Hollywood set to follow the Prince of Wales by adopting the full dress shirt, collar and white waistcoat with the traditional black tuxedo with peaked lapel taking the place of the tailcoat. Both the black silk and white Marcella cotton bow may be worn with this chic combination.

Whilst this is not true white tie, if worn with the Marcella cotton full dress shirt and waistcoat it is considered an acceptable variation.

Note: The shirt and waistcoat to the left have been heavily starched by specialist launderers www.stiffcollars.com

24

The sophisticated 1930s black tie is acceptable

The Marcella cotton full dress shirt when heavily starched with a high collar and bow tie made the wide lapelled black tuxedo a breathtaking look in the 1930s. Staying true to the traditional black & white code made this an acceptable alternative for those not in possession of the more elaborate white tie attire. Classic low cut, open back black waistcoats available from www.edeandravenscroft.com , Ralph Lauren and www.lipmanandsons.co.uk.

25

Your non-essential luxuries are permitted but not mandated

Whilst remaining an essential item for the Broadway dance troupe the traditional top hat, elegant walking cane, white gloves, watch chain and monocles of the Edwardian era were less popular in the 1930s. Determined Dandies should visit Davidoff of London, 35 St James Street to revel in their fine selection of cigars and canes. Note: Antique silk top hats are becoming rare and command high prices.

26

All dressed up with ‘the’ place to go

The wall street crash of 1929 caused pain throughout society but it did not kill the spirit of the people nor dampen their insatiable desire to dance and enjoy music and theatre. Going out was the epitome of high society, and there was no finer supper club in the world to spend the night at than the Café de Paris in London.

27

The playground of Princesses

28

The extravagant setting for new dance steps

29

The hotspot for seduction and scandal

30

The home to summer frivolity

31

www.britishpathe.com/video/morton-downey/query/Stormy

32

A not for profit event in aid of the Debra Charity