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GOING GREEN
SWITCH-Asia Thematic Regional Roundtable & Networking Event
30- 31 March 2015
Presentation By
All India Artisans and Craftworkers Welfare Association (AIACA)
The All India Artisans and Craftworkers’ Welfare Association (AIACA) is a non-governmental membership-based body working for the welfare of artisans in the handloom and handicraft sectors.
AIACA’s key initiatives Policy Advocacy Entrepreneurship Support Craftmark certification for Indian hand made craft processes
AIACA is registered under the Societies Registration Act ( January, 2004)
Our strength Total # of Craftmark Members: 80+ Artisan network of over 20,000 artisans across 20 states
of India Total # of Craft processes documented : 88
We are supported by: International funders, Govt. of India
THE ALL INDIA ARTISANS AND CRFATWORKERS WELFARE ASSOCIATION (AIACA):
Themes- SWITCH-Asia Thematic Regional Roundtable & Networking Event
Sustainable supply chains
Opportunities and challenges for a sustainable garment and textile sector in Asia Industry best practices with a potential for replication in Asia
Geographical areas: Varanasi and Lucknow (Uttar Pradesh) Jaipur, Churu, Kota, Udaipur (Rajasthan) Timeframe: 2014 – 2018 Partners: Traidcraft Exchange (UK) All India Artisans and Craftworkers
Welfare Association (AIACA) 6 local partner NGOs
The Project- Going Green
Target beneficiaries: 12, 500 Weavers/ Artisans 250 SMEs 6 Federations
Target Handicraft processes: Block Printing (Bagru and Sanganer) Tie and Dye (Churu) Kota Doriya weaving (Kota) Recycled products (Udaipur) Weaving (Varanasi) Chikankari (Lucknow)
To build sustainable businesses of textile artisans and improve their working conditions through efficient eco- friendly processes, access to resources and increased demand for “green products”.
Forming, strengthening ad mentoring artisan based collectives, SMEs and Federations
Enhanced ability/ capacity of textile SMEs and artisans to act collectively for enterprise development and policy advocacy
Enabling environment created through strong institutional and regulatory frameworks to support and promote sustainable consumption and production
Policy research and advocacy
Project Activities and Outcomes
Sensitizing artisans/ SMEs on occupational health and safety issues(with a focus on women)
Increased use of environment friendly technologies
Improved health of textile artisans
Testing and demonstrating 4 low- cost eco- friendly processes/ technologies for textile SMEs/ artisans
Project Activities and Outcomes
Capacitating textile SMEs and artisans to access resources (including finance and technology)
Increased production and sale of eco friendly products in domestic and international markets
Developing and marketing an eco- friendly line of ‘green’ textile products through Craftmark Green
Project Activities and Outcomes
Fragmented with large numbers of individual artisans who are both economically and socially vulnerable
Declining skills, lack of markets, devaluation of hand crafted products, and lack of sustainable
livelihood opportunities in the modern world.
Lack of access to credit and infrastructure facilities, inadequate availability of quality raw material at reasonable prices, lack of direct access to market, absence of brand image, less penetration in domestic market
High levels of poverty and poor access to basic services such as health, water, housing and sanitation
Competition from cheap foreign raw materials and power looms Excessive water use and pollution, and this is expected to increase as demand for textile products
grow Degradation and depletion of natural resources Use of toxic chemicals/processes leading to pollution and health problems for artisans Insufficient policies/incentives/ resources for environment friendly practices or their effective
implementation
Challenges of the Textile Sector in India
Opportunities of the Textile Sector in India
The Handicraft and Handloom sector in India are a Rs. 24,300 crore industry contributing Rs. 10,000 crore to India’s export earnings annually.
The handloom sector is a major employment generating sector.
As per the latest (3rd) Handloom Census of 2009-10, there are 2.38 million handlooms in the country, providing employment to 4.33 million handloom weavers and ancillary workers.
In the absence of a comprehensive handicrafts census, it is estimated that the sector employed 6.9 million craftspersons in 2011-12, the figure having risen from 6.6 million in 2005-06.
India being such a rich country of handicrafts and handlooms, it’s share in the global handicraft market is extremely small, less than 2%
These craftspeople or artisans are the backbone of the non-farm rural economy.
CHIKANKARI, LUCKNOW
Traditional embroidery
Mostly done on fabric like, cotton, georgette, chiffon, crepe, silk and kota doria etc.
Process: Block printing (traditionally used a wooden block) / tracing Embroidery on the pattern printed on the fabric using cotton or silk thread Washing and finishing
BLOCK PRINTING, RAJASTHAN
Traditional Hand block printing
Traditionally used vegetable dyes
Process: Block preparation through carving designs Washing, bleaching (with acetic acid and hydrogen peroxide) and drying of fabric Printing Fixing of colours Finishing
KOTA DORIYA WEAVING, KOTA
Unique hand-woven fabric (characteristic square check pattern
Differential weave of one cotton and one silk yarn is used
Pit looms are used
Process: Dyeing Warping Sizing (only for cotton yarn) Loom preparation Weaving
Baandhni, Churu
Traditional technique of tie and dye
Process: Washing Tying a fabric with a thread at several
points to produce variety of patterns Dyeing Starching
WEAVING, VARANASI
Varanasi is one of the richest handloom weaving craft centers of India
Made of silk warp and silk weft, on plain/satin ground base, brocaded with extra weft patterns in different layouts
Pit looms are used Process: Reeling Dyeing Pattern making (graph
making, card punching ) Weaving
RECYCLED PRODUCTS, UDAIPUR
Clusters Weavers/ Artisans
Collectives SMEs Federations
Varanasi 1641 89 22 -
Lucknow 1482 43 11
Jaipur 481 90 35 4
Churu 458 21 7 -
Udaipur 422 42 - -
Kota 90 7 - -
4574 292 75 4
Community Mobilization
Organizing the beneficiaries into Collectives
Capacity Building on Financial Literacy and Organization Development
Awareness raising on and facilitating access to government entitlements/ schemes/ financial resources
Identifying Policy issues and gaps through grass root consultations and continuing advocacy with the govt.
Organizing Weavers/ Artisans
Policy Issues
Generating an enabling environment: Systematic socio economic mapping of the craft workers and need for convergence
Institutional and regulatory framework as well as strategic alliances
Enabling access to information, services and schemes through awareness generation and effective implementation of government mechanisms
Strengthening the craft based enterprises Concept of creative and cultural industries- enterprise development and business
incubation
Infrastructure and technology development for efficiency and environmental sustainability
Addressing occupational health and safety
Apprenticeship and skill development for continuation and conservation
Design and marketing impacting economic and social well being Bridging craft sector and its growth with the rest of the economy and society Innovation and improving productivity
Branding and Certification
Environmental sustainability, occupational safety
Regional development and overall well being
Policy Consultations
Handloom and Handicraft proposed to be incorporated under the MGNREGA, under skilled category (100 days job guarantee)
Uttar Pradesh Handicraft Promotion Policy to be developed to address specific threats
Wages paid should be equal to that of the skilled category
Provision of direct procurement by all the government departments from handloom, handicrafts and cottage industries
Regulating cost of Raw materials for the smaller weavers and artisans
Skill enhancement especially with a focus on women and girls
Establishment of mega clusters
Linkage with tourism
Joint Commissioner, Industries
Deputy Commissioner, Industry
Regional Director, Handicrafts, Govt. of India
Asst. Director, Handicrafts, Govt of India
GM, District Industries Centre
EPCH Director, Khadi Industries
Commission Textiles Committee Handloom Textiles
Rathyatra, Varanasi Weavers/ artisans National Awardees
Media Coverage
Researching on low cost environment friendly technology focusing home based weavers/ artisans and small units
Impact of the selected craft processes on environment as well as health and safety of the producers
Identifying the scopes and ways to reduce environmental impact from the dyeing, printing, washing/ cleaning and bleaching processes associated with the selected craft processes
Short, Medium and Long term action plans for environment friendly technological models and solutions including: alternative lighting; alternative energy infrastructure development environment friendly pre- loom and post- loom operations increased use of sustainable raw materials use of natural dyeing practices cost efficient micro-level effluent treatment measures/techniques secondary effluent treatment plants recycling of waste fabric, re-cycling of used products, etc
Identifying ways to reduce occupational hazards use of health and safety gears by artisans
Develop the benchmark for the environmental standards for Craftmark Green
Develop an easy to use Manual and a toolkit for the low cost technology solutions
Craftmark Green- Certification for Green craft processes and products
AIACA already runs a Craftmark certification program which is certifying genuine handmade crarft processes.
Craftmark Green will certify environment friendly craft production processes
The Certification mark will work towards increasing consumer awareness and demand for these eco-friendly hand made products both in domestic as well as international markets.
Authenticating India’s handlooms and handicrafts for a global audience
Artisanal products are those produced by artisans, either completely by hand, or with the
help of hand tools or even mechanical means, as long as the direct manual contribution of
the artisan remains the most substantial component of the finished product. These are
produced without restriction in terms of quantity and using raw materials from sustainable
resources. The special nature of artisanal products derives from their distinctive features,
which can be utilitarian, aesthetic, artistic, creative, culturally attached, decorative,
functional, traditional, religiously and socially symbolic and significant.
(Definition adopted by the UNESCO/ITC Symposium "Crafts and the international market: trade and customs codification" - Manila, 6-8 October 1997)
Craftmark follows the definition set by UNESCO
Craftmark Certification Process
Application Verification Assessment
Compliance Approval Certification
Monitoring
•Verification is done
by in-house
Craftmark team
•The entire process
from raw material to
finished product is
physically verified
and documented
•Verified on
predefined templates
that record
information on raw
material, tools used,
etc
Craftmark Green Draft Definition
Craftmark Green is a handmade product from India. The raw materials used are natural. The product is made primarily by hand using simple tools. There is efficient use of water in the production process. The water and air residue are as per permissible limits. There are clear guidelines on disposal of the product after use and the artisans are provided good working conditions. They are paid the minimum wages set by the government and no child labor is used for making of this product.
Parameters for Verification
Handmade Product
Made in India
Natural Raw Materials
Natural Dyes
Water Residue
Air Residue
Packaging
Disposal Guidelines
Minimum Wages
Good Working Conditions and Well Being of Artisan
No Child Labor
Sensitization Workshop on Organic Cotton and Natural Dyes for Tie and Dye Cluster Orientation on use of organic cotton and natural dyes for 60 artisans/ SMEs
Hands on training on using natural dyes for 20 artisans/ SMEs The trainer organization has developed pigments and recipes that can be used in getting the same color in every subsequent batch.
Exposure & Training on how scrap fabric and waste paper can be used to make beautiful accessories for Udaipur Cluster Products:
Fabric Scrap Beads that can be made into necklace strings etc. Brooches Greeting Cards Tic Tac Clips Book Marks Hair Scrunches Bangles
Green Product Development
Sharing the journey…
Engaging Udaipur Women’s Cluster to make beautiful accessories with scrap fabric
Branding and Promotion
Market Linkages- National, International, e- commerce
Adding value to handmade green craft processes and production
Professionalizing traditional skills to create sustainable craft business enterprises
International Linkages and Collaborations
Increased Production and Sale of Eco-friendly Textile Products
Milestones for Year II Collectivizing all the target beneficiaries (12,500) into SHGs, Cooperatives, Federations,
etc.
Capacitating about 500 Community Resource Persons in financial literacy and governance for strengthening collectives
Addressing occupational health hazards in all 6 clusters and identifying specific ways to reduce them
Identifying and planning 4 low cost eco friendly technological solutions to be implemented within the project
Establishing Craftmark Green standards and implementation model with laboratory partners for verification (NITRA)
Developing at least 2-3 green product lines
Policy advocacy for improved access to resources (financial and technological)- a continuous process
Linkage and collaboration with industry and green technology experts for sharing learning and best practices
