GPS 6.870863 Aiguille du Midi - Rockfax

Glacier du TourGlacier d'Argentière

Glacier de TalèfreGrandes Jorasses

Envers des AiguillesPlan de l'Aiguille

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Aiguille du MidiArête à Laurence

Arête des CosmiquesÉperon des Cosmiques

South FaceNorthwest Face

Midi-Plan Traverse

Jack Geldard starting the crux wall of the Arête des Cosmiques (AD) - page 220. This short rock pitch follows the cracked wall to a bolt, then moves right to a chimney. Photo: Andy Houseman

214 215

Aig. du Plan (3673m)

Col du Plan

Aiguille du Midi - North Face

p.208

Aiguille du Midi - Northwest Face

p.232

Aiguille du Midi - South Face

p.226

Midi-Plan Traversep.234

Arête des Cosmiques

p.219

Col du Plan

p.206

Arête à Laurence

p.218

Glacier d'Envers du Plan

Glacier des Pélerins

Aig. du Midi (3842m)

Gros Rognon (3541m)

Refuge des Cosmiques (3613m)

Abri Simond Bivouac (3600m)

Col du Midi

Glacier des Bossons

Vallée Blanche

About 1km

Midi lift parking in Chamonix

GPS 45.917040 6.870863

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TourThe most famous and popular area of the

world's best alpine climbing range, these routes are a rite of passage for any alpinist. The Arête des Cosmiques, Rébuffat-Baquet, Midi-Plan Traverse; the names trip off the tongue like a who's who and what's what of alpinism. Even descending the famous snow arête from the Aiguille du Midi cable car is a challenge in itself, but it is just the beginning of the adventure that awaits in this mecca for mountaineers.

Approach See map on page 215From the centre of Chamonix, ride both stages of the Aiguille du Midi cable car to reach the summit at 3842m. For first time visitors, taking the extra lift to the summit terrace (and the 'Pas de la Vide' glass box which overhangs the Cunningham Couloir), is well worth the effort for the superb views and the opportunity to get the lie of the land.From the cable car station, descend the snow arête which leads east down to the top of the Vallée Blanche. It is equipped with a handrail in winter but no such luck for summer alpinists who need to negotiate it with crampons and skill alone. Technically it is straightforward, but it is breathtakingly exposed so take care and concentrate - looking at the view can wait!

Snow arête

Arête des Cosmiques - p.220

Midi-Plan Traverse - p.236

The ridge is almost flat for the first 10m, then drops steeply down and left for 50m before curving back right and widening again. Where the ridge flattens and widens, all routes but the Midi-Plan Traverse (which continues along the ridge) are accessed by following the slope rightwards and swinging back west under the South Face of the Aiguille du Midi.

ConditionsThe good news is that, with rock climbs and ice and winter routes, there is almost always something climbable in this area. The bad news is that the glaciers and seriousness of the terrain mean that you need the weather to be half decent to consider climbing up here - this is not the place to be wandering around in a storm. The rock climbs are all south facing and quick drying and can usually be climbed after one clear day to dry them out. The other routes will vary with conditions but the Arête des Cosmiques and Arête à Laurence can be climbed in almost any summer conditions and are reliable options for a day out. For the other climbs check the specific route pages.

Aiguille du Midi (3842m)

217216 217216 Aiguille du MidiAiguille du Midi

Éperon des Cosmiques

p.224

Aiguille du Midi - South Face

p.226

Arête à Laurence

p.218

Refuge des Cosmiques (3613m)

Some heavy traffic on the ridge descent from the Aiguille du Midi. Photo: Jon Griffith (jonathangriffith.co.uk)




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Arête à LaurenceArête à Laurence is ideal for a first alpine route, made even better by the fact that it finishes at a refuge, complete with coffee and cake. Combining this with another nearby route makes for an excellent day, provided you don't miss the last Midi lift! Conditions - The route is possible in any conditions other than deep, fresh snow and is equally fun when dry or with a good coverage of firm snow.Approach (see map on page 215) - Descend the Aiguille du Midi via the famous snow ridge before swinging around west and passing under the Midi South Face, Arête des Cosmiques and Refuge des Cosmiques to reach the foot of the route.Descent - Return to the Aiguille du Midi.

Refuge des Cosmiques

Refuge des Cosmiques

Arête des Cosmiques

Arête à Laurence

Pointes Lachenal and Mont Blanc du Tacul East Face

Mont Blanc du Tacul Northwest Face and Triangle du Tacul approach

1 Arête à Laurence . . . . .2jΩ PD 1I, 100m, 1 - 2 hours . An excellent, short climb which lacks technical difficulties but not exposure.1) The ridge can be joined almost anywhere within 100m of the Col du Midi, but the most enjoyable scrambling is found by starting in a small snow bay just to the left of where the rock solidifies considerably. 2) Climb leftwards up a ramp before turning right and following the ridge on its crest, turning difficulties on the left. 3) 4b. Halfway to the refuge there is an awkward slab which can either downclimbed (4b) or abseiled (5m). From the foot of the slab, return to the ridge crest and continue along the ridge in a stunning position to reach the terrace at the back of the Refuge des Cosmiques.

3) Short slab - downclimb or possible abseil

1) Snow bay

Snowy, early season conditions for the first abseil on the Arête des Cosmiques (AD) - page 220. Photo: Charlie Boscoe

2) Ridge crest


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219218 Aiguille du Midi Arête à Laurence

EZOP40 min

Arête des Cosmiques Aiguille du Midi

Arête des CosmiquesArête des Cosmiques is almost certainly the most popular climb in Chamonix and with good reason - excellent rock, perfect views and just enough technical difficulty to turn it from a scramble to a climb. The only problem is that everyone else knows about it, so either go super early, or slightly later in the day - a fine line to tread when aiming to catch the last cable car down! Also covered here is the Cosmiques Icefall - a rarely formed route but one which is well worth seeking out in good conditions. Conditions - Provided the rock is dry, the route can be climbed in virtually any conditions other than in deep powder snow, but is best when there is enough snow for it to be climbed in crampons throughout. The crux is actually easier in crampons due to the shape of the drilled pockets, created by the Chamonix guides.Approach (see map on page 215)Descend the Aiguille du Midi via the famous snow ridge before swinging around to the west and passing under the Midi South Face and the Éperon des Cosmiques. Turn north to reach the abandoned Cosmqiues Observatory and the Abri Simond Hut (which is locked whenever the Refuge des Cosmiques is open - mid-February to mid-October). The route begins from these ramshackle buildings.Descent - Get on the lift!




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Tour1 Arête des Cosmiques . .4jΩ AD 3

II, 350m, 3 - 4 hours . Whether you get it quiet or busy, the situations and quality of the climbing make Arête des Cosmiques one of the great alpine challenges. Photo on front cover and page 214 and 219.1) From the Cosmiques Observatory, just below the modern Refuge des Cosmiques, climb the vague gully just to the right of the crest of the ridge.2) When the ridge peters out, drift rightwards across slabby ground to reach an exposed snow traverse on the south side of the ridge to a small summit above the Éperon des Cosmiques. 3) Make an awkward 20m abseil from here, using a bolted anchor, to reach an exposed, flat snow ridge on the crest of the arête which leads to a chimney beneath a steep rock wall. 4) At the top of the chimney is another set of bolts, from which a 25m abseil takes you onto an exposed ledge on the south side of the ridge, underneath a steep, golden tower. 5) Continue along the ledge for 10m to reach a short, steep chimney on the left which is climbed on positive holds to reach a peg belay. Downclimb for 5m in the direction of the ridge crest before climbing up to reach the crest itself via a steep slope (much easier when snow covered). Climb up the ridge crest for 5m then traverse a vague ledge system along some interesting but easy terrain on the south side of the ridge, staying roughly 10m below the ridge top. Then descend slightly to a snow ledge underneath an imposing rock overhang. Follow the ledge under the overhang and up onto the ridge crest and follow this to the foot of a 20m high slab of golden granite - the crux pitch.

Aiguille du Midi viewing platform

2) Exposed traverse just before the first abseil 5) Steep chimney

after the second abseil.

5) Ledge under imposing rock

overhang 6) Crux slab

2) Slabby ground after the gully

peters out

Cosmiques Icefall - p.222

3) First abseil

4) Second abseil

8) Final easy ridge

1) GullyCosmiques Observatory

and Abri Simond Hut

6) 4c. Climb the slab itself (4c) for 8m (bolt at the top of this section and pre-drilled crampon pockets for the feet) before stepping right and climbing the easy chimney to reach a large ledge at the top of the slab. (This is the toughest section of climbing on the route and as such queues can form here. If you don't want to wait, you can drop onto the north side of the ridge just before the 20m slab and climb a very tight, squirmy chimney instead, which brings you out next to the top of the slab.) From here, cross onto the north side of the ridge via an awkward step down before traversing towards the cable car station for 30m to reach a steep chimney. There are slings to belay off and in mid-season there is often a collection of fixed gear. Either way, the belay stance is in a location which is of a kind normally only visited on much harder routes than this. 7) 4a. Take in the exposure before stepping up and into the chimney. The move to get into this is tricky (unless you know where the hidden hold is!) but the rest is enjoyable and exposed, with climbing roughly akin to Scottish II or 4a rock climbing depending on conditions. The chimney is 30m long, after which 10m of blocky steep scrambling brings you onto the crest of the ridge, just below the cable car station. 8) A short, final snow ridge leads to an old, wobbly ladder and finally, the viewing platform at the Aiguille du Midi where you can expect to be stared at by incredulous tourists. It's even been known for autographs to be signed by some climbers whose arrival at the lift station coincided with that of a group of particularly exuberant holiday makers!FA. G.Finch, M.Finch 2.8.1911

7) Sling belay below the final steep chimney

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221220 Arête des Cosmiques Aiguille du MidiAiguille du Midi Arête des Cosmiques


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2 Cosmiques Icefall . . . .2mΩ TD+ 5II, 80m . A rarely formed route but one which is well worth seeking out in good conditions. The icefall is impossible to spot until you are almost directly underneath it ,but it is easy enough to locate, being immediately left of the Éperon des Cosmiques in a deep-cut chimney. This is a difficult route to find in condition but a superb outing if you do manage it. It is south facing hence you would expect it to be in condition in the depths of winter and, whilst it sometimes is, May is often when the best ice is found. Climb the snow slope which is used to reach the Éperon des Cosmiques to where it narrows to a gully. Follow the gully for 20m to a belay on the right. In thin conditions (as pictured) this can involve some mixed moves up to Scottish III. Photo opposite.1) 4. Head directly up the ice/mixed ground above the belay and then step right to a belay out of the gully on the right.2) 4+. Climb the steep icy wall above which finishes with a tenuous low-angled slabby section and then straightforward snow plodding to another belay on the right wall. 3) 5. Climb the 10m vertical ice step above to reach an easy snow gully which leads up to join the Arête des Cosmiques just before its abseils. If the 10m ice step is short on ice, it becomes an exercise in thrutching around a chockstone, which will provide even the strongest teams with a challenge.Descent - Continue along the Arête des Cosmiques to the Aiguille du Midi lift station. It is possible to abseil the route and walk back but this takes as long as the ever enjoyable Cosmiques.


Guiffra-Monaci - p.224

Ben Briggs on the Cosmiques Icefall (TD+) - opposite - in lean conditions. Photo: Jon Griffith (jonathangriffith.co.uk)

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Arête des Cosmiques Aiguille du MidiAiguille du Midi Arête des Cosmiques

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Crux overhang

Éperon des CosmiquesWith ease of access and some wonderful golden granite, the Éperon des Cosmiques is understandably popular.Conditions - The Éperon dries quickly after bad weather and the key sections are often dry even when there is still some snow lingering elsewhere.Approach (see map on page 215) - Descend the Aiguille du Midi via the famous snow ridge before swinging around to the west and passing under the Midi South Face. The Éperon is 300m further on, 20 minutes from the Aiguille du Midi.Descent - Continue along the Arête des Cosmiques to the lift station. It is possible to abseil back down the routes via the fixed belays, but take great care to avoid the power cables that pass close to the face and are just waiting to snaffle any wayward ropes!

1 Guiffra-Monaci . . . . . .3jΩ TD 6aII, 115m . Not climbed nearly as often as its famous neighbour, this route really deserves more attention. The climbing is more homogenous than on the Rébuffat-Pierre and the 6a crack pitch is immaculate. The route starts from the far left of the highest ledge, almost at the top of the snow slope leading to the Cosmiques Icefall. 1) 5b, 30m. Climb the corner capped by an overhang. Upon reaching the overhang, cross the slab rightwards to reach right-slanting flakes above a notch. Follow these on good holds to reach a double bolt belay 5m below and left of a distinctive fin of rock which leads to the overhang.2) 5c, 30m. Climb the crack which leads rightwards to the corner. Follow this before stepping out right onto the fin just before the overhang. From the top of the fin, a couple more metres of slabby climbing lead to a belay in a notch.3) 6a, 20m. A shorter pitch but this is the one you want to lead! From the notch follow the blatantly obvious hand-jamming cracks which drift left to a ledge via some classic granite moves.4) 5c, 35m. The crack continues above the ledge but is slightly more vague and the angle begins to kick back, with the climbing getting progressively easier as you go. Belay on the huge ledge at the top of the Éperon, taking care not to knock anything onto climbers below. From here, scramble up and leftwards easily to join the Arête des Cosmiques. FA. C.Guiffra, D.Monaci 2.9.1973

2 Rébuffat-Pierre . . .4pjΩ TD- 6a+ II, 120m . A true alpine classic, this route was immortalised in Rébuffat's own The Mont Blanc Massif: The Hundred Finest Routes book. The crux was originally aided and is now equipped with numerous bits of rope and other paraphernalia. It is in an excellent situation and the rest of the route is superb and varied. The route starts from the far left of the highest ledge, almost at the top of the snow slope leading to the Cosmiques Icefall.1) 4a, 30m. Cross the ledge easily before climbing a short corner to stand on top of a block. Step rightwards off this and scramble easily up to a belay on a ledge, 15m below and left of the crux overhang.2) 6a+ or 5b/A0, 30m. Climb the corner then the thin flake-crack which leads to the crux overhang via some increasingly steep ground and good holds. The crux is steep but if you're acclimatised and have your wits about you, there are half decent footholds about to help. Otherwise, pull on whatever is there at the time and let your arms do their stuff! Above the crux, follow the easier groove for 10m to reach a belay at the right-hand edge of a large, sloping ledge. 3) 5c, 30m. Walk to the left along the ledge for 4m and then climb the imposing crack above through the small overhang. If you can't jam, this will feel hard so sandbagging your mate by 'kindly' offering to lead pitch 2 may be worthwhile! Once above the overhang, follow the crack with continual interest and the odd steep pull to an exposed but comfortable ledge.4) 5b, 25m. More of the same, but a bit easier. Continue up the crack for 20m to a ledge with broken ground above and on the right. Head towards the broken ground by climbing a short corner and belay where the face peters out into scrambling terrain. Pay attention not to knock any of the loose rocks which litter this area onto climbers below. FA. B.Pierre, G.Rébuffat 13.8.1956

3 East Face . . . . . . . . . .2jΩ TD- 5cII, 120m . A less travelled route than the others described here but a very worthwhile outing, the East Face makes for a good alternative when the more famous routes of the area are busy. Start at the bergschrund of the snow slope immediately right of the Éperon des Cosmiques. This snow slope is directly below the abseils of the Arête des Cosmiques and there is often some rockfall danger (both natural and man made) so it's a good idea to climb the first pitch in big boots and then change into rock shoes before pitch 2, just to minimise time spent in the line of fire! Start 3m right of the rusty old ladder.1) 4b, 15m. From the bergschrund, climb diagonally up and left across straightforward blocky ground to reach a belay 5m below an electricity pylon (with tens of thousands of volts running through it powering the Midi cable car), beneath a right-leaning corner and crack.2) 4b, 30m. Follow the corner and crack via some excellent moderate climbing to a ledge below a roof.3) 5c/A0, 20m. Climb the overhanging roof using direct aid on bolts. If the bolts have been removed (as they are sporadically) there is a large, helpful crack and even those lacking in aid climbing experience should be able to get through this section with a few cams, slings and plenty of determination. Above the overhang, the crack continues with some difficulty to a ledge beneath another roof.4) 5b, 30m. Move left for 2m before climbing the stunning right-leaning corner with increasing difficulty to reach a deep notch, close to the summit of the Éperon. 5) 4a, 20m. Climb the ramp leading up and left to the top of the Éperon and from here, either abseil the route (watch out for the power cables...) or scramble up to join the Arête des Cosmiques.

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225224 Éperon des Cosmiques Aiguille du MidiAiguille du Midi Éperon des Cosmiques

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1 La Dame du Lac 3ptjΩ ED1 6b+II, 215m . When this route is accessible, it provides an excellent set of crack pitches, protected by wires and small cams. There are also some pegs and even a few bolts on the bolder slab sections. The belays are equipped with pegs and glue-ins. IMPORTANT - There is often work going on at the top of the couloir to the left of this route so check if this is the case, and if so, climb elsewhere as the workmen don't hold back on chucking rocks down the couloir! 1) 5b, 20m. Climb rightwards to stand on top of a block, below and left of a tough-looking slab.2) 6b+, 30m. The slab is indeed tough! Cross it leftwards, past a couple of bolts, until beneath an overhanging groove. Climb this with considerable difficulty, clipping some fixed pegs, before reaching a peg belay. 3) 6b, 35m. Climb the corner-crack above for 10m (6a) to reach a ledge. Traverse leftwards along this to reach a corner-crack to the right of a pillar. Climb this up some grey rock to a belay beneath an imposing, steep wall.4) 5c, 20m. Fire up the wall itself via steep cracks for 10m then traverse right along the ledge system to a sunnier belay, back on the golden rock of the south face proper.5) 6b, 15m. Follow the right-leaning groove above using plenty of grunt before traversing back left to a notch.6) 6b, 40m. Climb directly up and out of the notch to reach a series of ledges. Move right and follow a long system of grooves to the crest of a ridge, overlooking a gully on the left. This belay is shared with the Rébuffat-Baquet.7) 4a, 15m. Cross the gully leftwards (possibly some snow here in early season) to a belay at the foot of a long corner.8) 6a, 40m. Ignore the corner and instead climb the slab and crack which takes you leftwards to reach an exposed ledge on the crest of the arête. Climb just to the right of the arête to the summit of the pinnacle via some excellent cracks.FA. G.Vogler, R.Vogler 10.1988

2 Super Dupont . 3ktjΩ ED1 7aII, 210m . A brilliant route, in the full glare of the sun all day and featuring some stiff climbing up the centre of the face.1) 6a, 20m. Climb the slabby crack which leads to the foot of a right-leaning corner. This pitch only exists due to glacial retreat and was bolted in 2010 to make it acceptably well protected.2) 6a+, 25m. Follow the corner to a belay underneath the imposing roof, passing a bolt halfway up.3) 6b+, 15m. Traverse left under the roof (bolts) until almost out from underneath it, then climb through it going diagonally up and left. Once past the roof, move a metre to the right to reach the belay. A great little pitch but no pushover.4) 6b, 35m. Climb the slab above by initially drifting up and left before coming back after 15m and traversing rightwards until back above the previous belay, on a ledge shared with the Rébuffat-Baquet.5) 7a, 15m. Climb the crack above with some difficulty to a belay beneath a steep groove bypassing the overhang above it on the left. This pitch is slightly easier if you have thin fingers which can fit in the crack; those with fat digits might want to send their mate up on the lead!6) 6c+, 20m. Follow the groove awkwardly until you find yourself at the top left end of the overhang. Continue up the corner on the right which steepens but is easier than it looks. 7) 5c, 20m. A comparative rest after the last two pitches! Climb the crack system, drifting slightly left until under a third overhang. 8) 6a, 15m. The steep crack above and left of the belay is, thankfully, easier than it appears from below. Climb it and traverse right once through the overhang to a spectacularly situated belay. 9) 6c/A0 (or 7b), 20m. Although it is possible to free the move straight off the belay, it is utterly desperate and virtually everyone pulls on the bolt, whether they admit it or not! The groove above is hard and requires the ability to jam well. It eases near the top and finishes on a good ledge. 10) 5c, 20m. Follow slightly more broken ground to the left of a small overhang and then leftwards to the foot of the final pitch of the Rébuffat-Baquet.11) 6b+, 25m. The final pitch of the Rébuffat-Baquet.FA. M.Piola, P-A.Steiner 8/9.5.1984

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227226 South Face Aiguille du MidiAiguille du Midi South Face

South FaceThe South Face of the Midi is one of the most famous rock walls in Chamonix and an ascent of one of these iconic routes is essential for any aspiring alpine climber. The Rébuffat-Baquet is the best known route and it is well worth the hype, but if you can manage to climb a couple of grades harder, the other lines described here are just as good, and much quieter. Whichever route you choose, just being on this famous face, climbing perfect golden granite, is always a pleasure. Approach (see map on page 215) - Descend the snow arête from the Aiguille du Midi and swing back westwards to where it widens to reach the south face. Descent - With bolted belays littering the face, it is possible to abseil the face by any number of routes. However, topping out and making the short abseil into the lift station viewing terrace is more satisfying and, frankly, more fun. If abseiling down your route, bear in mind that you'll probably be abseiling past upcoming climbers and, if you don't land right back at your kit, you'll be walking on a wet glacier in rock boots. Conditions - The face dries quickly and is climbed virtually every sunny day from mid-April until mid-October. The true south-facing routes (numbers 2 and 3) get sun all day long. The other three routes get plenty of sun but you will be in the shade at some stage during the day.

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Tour3 Rébuffat-Baquet . . . . . .4jΩ TD+ 6a

III, 250m . Ease of access, incredible textured granite and some of the best views and situations in the Alps, this is an uber classic and for good reason. As if all that wasn't enough, the climbing is as enjoyable as it is varied, with slabs, finger-cracks and laybacks all featuring heavily. The only downside is that, if you want to get the full experience and top out, you'll need to wear big boots and crampons for 10 minutes and then carry them for the rest of the day; but this is alpinism - a heavy bag is par for the course! To reach the first pitch, climb easily off the glacier and onto a large grey ledge. The belays are all bolted so it is possible to abseil the line, although this becomes tricker and less logical the higher you get due to the wandering nature of the upper section.1) 5c, 30m. Step left off the ledge and climb up the corner with minimal difficulty. Exit the corner leftwards at the top and make a few delicate moves across the slab under the overhang. There is a bolt to protect this section and a double bolt belay 2m before the overhang ends. Ignore this and continue for 5m until out from under the overhang, where there is another bolt belay with a much better view of the crux pitch. 2) 6a, 15m. THE pitch - the 'S' crack is a contender for the single most famous piece of rock in Chamonix so no pressure if you're going for the onsight! Climb the thin finger-crack straight above the belay, with numerous helpful edges for feet and many pegs, which can supplemented with small cams as and when needed. The crack goes straight up and then curves leftwards, with the exposure increasing all the time, and leads all too quickly to a small ledge and a bolted belay.3) 5c, 20m. Climb the corner-crack up and rightwards until you are standing on top of a block. Climb back diagonally leftwards via a series of steep flakes and descend slightly to an exposed belay. A brilliant pitch.4) 5b, 20m. Continue up the same flake system, still trending leftwards to reach a steep slabby corner, which is climbed using a helpful crack to a large ledge.5) 5c, 30m. Step right off the ledge and carry on up the ramp with some awkward moves thrown in for good measure. At the top of the ramp, cross the slab leftwards and climb the crack system above to another good ledge. 6) 4c, 20m. It is possible to go straight up the steep wall above the ledge, but this is hard and not in keeping with the rest of the route. Instead, traverse up and right on blocky ground and then move back left on good holds to finish above the steep section. 7) 5b, 30m. Traverse easily across ledges for 10m to pass around the ridge taken by pitch 6 of La Dame du Lac before launching up the wide chimney, which can be snow filled, or at least wet from snow melt. Climb this and follow it up and rightwards until it peters out, at which point, step right to belay.8) 4a, 10m. A link pitch - step down and left and traverse ledges until underneath the deep-cut gully.9) 5b, 30m. Follow the right-hand side of the gully over satisfying and occasionally quite exposed blocky terrain to reach a ledge system below the imposing final tower. It is possible to climb up the middle of the gully, but this is often snowy and has numerous loose blocks. 10) 5c/A0 or 6b+, 25m. Climb up to the foot of the final tower and follow it's right arête in an outrageous position until it begins to curve leftwards and becomes slabby. At this point you mantel onto the slab and follow it to the summit. This pitch is rarely done without several good pulls on the bolts which line the arête so don't feel bad if you yard on them! It is possible to avoid this section by traversing left around the final tower, but whether you do it free or 'French free', the final slab to the top is probably the best situated pitch in this chapter, if not the whole book, and shouldn't be missed.FA. G.Rébuffat, M.Baquet 13.7.1956

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A climber in a stunning position about to abseil back to the lift station from the finishing pinnacle to most of the routes on the Aiguille du Midi South Face. Photo: Kyle Wood

4 Contamine . . . 2kpjΩ ED1 6c+II, 250m . The second most popular route on the south face of the Midi and with good reason - the Contamine is the E4 climbers' version of the Rébuffat, with tough, well protected climbing. The route is often abseiled to avoid carrying sacks.1) 6a, 20m. Start on the same ledge as the Rébuffat-Baquet and, as with that route, step left and climb the groove above for 8m to where it starts to move left. Instead of following it left, carry on straight up through an overlap and climb the slab for 5m to a belay.2) 6a, 30m. Cross the slab diagonally leftwards to the foot of a short, steep corner-crack. Climb this and the crack above to a belay on the right of a large slab. 3) 6b, 45m. Climb the twin cracks above, following them 5m left of the crest of the arête to belay in a shallow notch above an overlap. There are some pegs in place to help with this pitch ,but it is sustained (and superb).4) 5c, 45m. The corner above is easier but just as good. Follow the grooves to a series of ledges (often snowy) below an imposing corner-crack that splits a steep wall.5) 6c+, 40m. Scramble up the ledges (5a) to the foot of the corner-crack (possible belay) and climb this. It looks okay from below but proves tough and is both thin and tenuous at the same time! Fortunately it is well protected throughout. The final move past a bolt at the end of the steep section is the technical crux and after this, easier padding up right following the wide flared crack leads to the belay on a ledge below more tough-looking steep ground.6) 6b, 30m. Looks can be deceiving ... but in this case, they aren't! The crack and the slabby ground above it are hard and it has been known for some of the pegs to be pulled on by tired climbers with five tough pitches already below them. Once at the top of the slab, either abseil off or:7) Climb an easy scrambling pitch up a shaded gully to reach the Rébuffat-Baquet.8) 5c/A0 or 6b+, 25m. Follow pitch 10 of the Rébuffat-Baquet to the summit.FA. A.Contamine, M.Bron 1.9.1957

5 Voie Kohlmann . . .2pjΩ TD+ 6a+II, 185m . A route that ought to see more attention. The climbing is as good as that found on the Rébuffat-Baquet and the difficulties are similar. The downside is that the route faces almost due east and so loses the sun earlier than the south-facing routes, especially the upper corner. Parts of it go into the shade early in the day, so start early, climb fast and save it for a scorching August day with no wind.1) 5a, 30m. Climb grey rock up and into the groove and follow this leftwards easily to a ledge.2) 5b, 30m. Continue up the groove, 10m left of where the rock turns grey.3) 5b, 30m. More of the same, which is no chore when the climbing is this good!4) 6a/A0 or 6c, 25m. Things get a bit tougher here - climb straight up to underneath an overhang and traverse left under it before climbing the groove above. This can be done free but this is not in keeping with the rest of the route and most climbers will pull on some handily placed bolts to ease their passage, bringing the grade to an amenable 6a.5) 4b, 20m. Climb the short wide crack. Easy ground leads to two belays - use the one on the right.6) 6a+ 30m. Climb the corner with some difficulty to a stance which gets chilly pretty quickly!7) 5c, 25m. Carry on up the groove to reach the top of the pillar. Either abseil the Contamine or follow it to the summit.FA. M.Brebant, B.Mevel, P.Kohlmann 17.7.1960

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Tour1 Vent du Dragon . . . 3tmΩ TD 5

III, 220m . Once an undocumented line that only the locals knew about, Vent du Dragon has become something of a classic and is probably the most climbed route on this face since it appeared in Philippe Batoux's beautiful Mont Blanc - The Finest Routes book. Start in the snow bay below an open, low-angled snow/mixed ramp. 1) 3, 60m. Climb the ramp easily on snowy mixed ground and cross onto the right before coming back left where it widens. Stay on the left and climb a short mixed step to reach a bolt and some slings around a block.2) 3+, 40m. Continue with slightly more difficulty (but still on steady ground) up a right-leaning gully which leads to a large slab. Carry on rightwards past the foot of the slab and 5m further up to reach a peg and bolt belay. 3) 5, 55m. Climb the stunning icy runnel to the right of the slab to where it is capped by a blocky overhang. Step left and turn the overhang on the left (crux) before continuing up the right-leaning icy runnel above. Climb this for 15m to a snowy col and a bolt/peg belay.4) 5, 50m. Step right from the belay and make a couple of mixed moves to gain the icy runnel above. Climb this and then make a mantelshelf move left into another runnel. Follow this to it's top and then step left into and through a cave and some tenuous feeling mixed moves to a bolt belay. Don't be tempted out rightwards by the snowy gully near the top of this pitch, it is much harder than it looks...5) 2, 15m. Move left around the corner and climb the snow slope to reach the Arête des Cosmiques.FA. P.Collet, T.Robisco 6.5.2003

2 Profit-Perroux . . . . . . .3mΩ TD 4+III, 240m . A marginally easier option than the Vent du Dragon, this excellent little route varies significantly with conditions so get it when it's fat or be prepared for some scratching!1) 3, 60m. As for the Vent du Dragon.2) 2, 20m. Continue for 8m up the snowy mixed ground to reach a snowy col. Step right here to belay at the left-hand end of a snow slope. 3) 4, 55m. Cross the snow slope to the right and climb the steep corner. In good conditions this is straightforward but with minimal ice it is a tricky exercise in dry tooling, at about M4. Above the corner, continue up 60 degree ice to a belay at the foot of a rock buttress on the left.4) 4+, 55m. Step right back onto the 60 degree ice and climb this into an increasingly narrow gully. 5m after the gully steepens and narrows to just a metre or so wide, exit it onto a steep, juggy rock wall on the right. This is usually best climbed with (gloved) hands instead of ice axes and leads to a belay on a sloping ledge, just right of an icy runnel.5) 3, 50m. Step left into the icy runnel and follow this up some 70 degree ice and some short mixed steps to join the Arête des Cosmiques.FA. C.Profit, G.Perroux

Northwest FaceThe climbing on this face is excellent but it has a serious feel despite the ease of access and escape in case of bad weather or conditions is difficult. Although abseiling off the bridge of the Aiguille du Midi cable car is intimidating, it does make these routes the easiest access alpine climbs in the world. As if an approach with zero uphill wasn't appealing enough, the routes also involve continuous climbing from the bottom of the approach abseils to the end of the Arête des Cosmiques, so there is no descent either! There is often work going on above the Cunningham Couloir, in which case debris is knocked down and these routes are off limits. Check for current information at the OHM before going. Conditions - The face is (by the standard of alpine mixed climbs) fairly reliable and these routes are regularly climbed anytime between October and May.Approach (see map on page 215) - Abseil from the bridge which links the two summits of the Aiguille du Midi, into the Cunningham Couloir below. There is a recently installed pair of bolts at the southern end of the bridge. The first abseil is 55m and the bolted anchor you're aiming for is hard to spot until you're almost on it. It is in a corner, directly in the fall line of the abseil off the bridge, 5m above the base of the Cunningham Couloir. If you can't find it there are other anchors around, albeit of varying quality. After this there are 2 x 50m abseils on the right bank of the couloir, a further one from a rock island in the middle of the couloir and a final 30m abseil on the left bank brings you to the foot of routes 1 and 2. For the Burnier-Vogler, the abseil anchors continue on the left bank or it is possible to downclimb to the foot of the route.Descent - Continue along the Arête des Cosmiques (page 220) to the lift station. In case of bad conditions, or a change in the weather, it is possible to climb out of the Cunningham Couloir, back under the bridge and onto the top of the north face of the Aiguille du Midi, but this is loose, unpleasant and should only be a last resort.

3 Burnier-Vogler . . . . . . .3mΩ D+ 4III, 275m . The easiest and longest (300m) of the routes here, this is a popular line. With the slightly longer approach and virtually all of the Arête des Cosmiques at the end of it, you'll need to be fast! The route can also be accessed by abseiling in from just before the first abseil on the Arête des Cosmiques and using the fixed belays to descend before then climbing back out. 1) 3, 60m. Climb the excellent, thin icy gully via some 70 degree ice and the odd rock step thrown in and to reach a single bolt belay on the right. 2) 4, 50m. Finish the gully by climbing a short 80 degree step then fire up 50 degree snow and ice to a peg and bolt belay on the left.3) 2, 60m. Step back right and climb 60m of 55 degree snow/ice to a bolt belay on the right.4) 3, 50m. Carry on up steepening ice to a final bolt belay on a rock buttress in the middle of the gully, directly below the steep crux.5) 4, 55m. Head straight up to reach the imposing corner and enter this via some steep moves (crux). Follow it for 10m to reach the Arête des Cosmiques. FA. F.Burnier, R.Vogler 11.5.1980

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TourMidi-Plan Traverse

A wonderful and famous outing that is frequently underestimated. The difficulties can vary hugely depending on the amount and quality of snow on the route.Conditions - The route is better and safer in early season when the traverse to the Rognon du Plan is snow covered. It can be climbed throughout the summer provided there has been a good overnight freeze and crampon conditions are firm. Approach (see map on page 215) - Walk out of the lift station!

235234 Midi-Plan Traverse Aiguille du MidiAiguille du Midi Midi-Plan Traverse

Marie Bron and Olivier Chevalley returning from the Midi-Plan Traverse (AD) - page 236. Photo: Ben Tibbetts (bentibbettsphotography.com)




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1 Midi-Plan Traverse . . .4mΩ AD 1III, 200m, 3 - 5 hours . A classic traverse, with magnificent views, which is usually climbed as a there-and-back outing.Photo on page 234. 1) From the Aiguille du Midi, descend the east ridge to flatter ground and continue eastwards towards the Aiguille du Plan. 2) Pass over two small snowy summits before dropping down steeply to the Col du Plan. This descent can be icy and it will feel steep and exposed in these conditions - take your time.3) Pass onto the north side of the ridge and traverse the exposed slope, climbing gradually up and leftwards (easier and safer with good snow cover) to regain the ridge at a saddle.4) Climb the ridge easily via a gentle snow slope to the rocks of the Rognon du Plan. Where this narrows to a metre or so wide, drop off to the right via 2 x 25m abseils down chimneys and ledges (numerous routes possible and huge amounts of abseil tat everywhere) to reach a snow traverse or (in poor conditions) smooth slabs above the Envers Glacier. Cross these to reach gentle snow slopes on the ridge crest which lead to the foot of the rocky summit tower of the Aiguille du Plan.


Col du Plan(3475m)

Rognon du Plan

Aiguille du Plan(3673m)

3) Exposed traverse. easier and safer with good snow.

Approach to all other routes in Aiguille du Midi chapter

2) Two small snowy summits

1) Aiguille du Midi east ridge

3) Exposed traverse on the north face (not visible here, see photo above left)

5) 4b. Go to the north of the tower and climb a series of ledges on the north side. Where the rock steepens, step right and climb a corner (4b) to reach large ledges. A final couple of mantelshelves lead to the stunningly-exposed summit, which is a wonderful viewpoint.Descent - Either reverse the route or descend the Glacier d'Envers du Plan to the Refuge du Requin. This requires good snow coverage, is usually only possible in early Summer and always has crevasse danger. Check on conditions before attempting to descend this way.If reversing the route back to the Aiguille du Midi, reclimbing the Rognon du Plan will involve some climbing up to 4b. The Rognon can be climbed anywhere on its east face at this grade. Although the Rognon's north ridge looks quite easy, it proves not to be, so resist the temptation to go up it (it is much tougher than reclimbing the east face) and instead reverse the abseil line.FA. G.W.Young, J.Knubel 10.8.1907

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In poor snow cover route follows the lower line across rock slabs (hidden by snow

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Glacier d'Envers du Plan

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Documents

GPS 6.870863 Aiguille du Midi - Rockfax