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EATING OUT
UNCOMMONJess Piper
BURGER BUSINESSBurgers of Melbourne
TENPIN KITCHENLisa Homen and Tim Grey
REGULARSFEATURE COOKING
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ABBACCHIO OF GOAT SHOULDER, PEPPERS AND SALTED RICOTTAUnion Dining
RETURN OF THE MACKMoon Dog Craft Brewery
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CONTRIBUTORS
NEWLY OPENED
AROUND THE TRAPS
THINGS WE LOVE
REVIEWS
OUT AND ABOUT
THE DIARY
GRAM DIRECTORY
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CONTENTS
DANNY BOWIEN AND CHRIS YING
MISSION CHINESE
Lauren Bruce and Pia Hambour
QUEENSTOWN
NEW ZEALAND
Megan Osborne
INTERNATIONAL
Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.
ON THE COVER: PUMPKINSA cultivar of a squash plant, most commonly of Cucurbita pepo, that is round, with smooth, slightly ribbed skin, and deep yellow to orange coloration. The thick shell contains the seeds and pulp. Some exceptionally large cultivars of squash with similar appearance have also been derived from Cucurbita maxima. Specific cultivars of winter squash derived from other species, including C. argyrosperma, and C. moschata, are also sometimes called “pumpkin”. In New Zealand and Australian English, the term pumpkin generally refers to the broader category called winter squash elsewhere. (Source: Wikipedia)
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Jess Hourigan
DEPUTY EDITOR
Lauren Bruce
DEPUTY EDITOR
Megan Osborne
COVER DESIGN
ELEVATOR CREATIVE [email protected] www.elevatorcreative.com.au
ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES: [email protected]
EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: [email protected]
DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: [email protected]
GENERAL ENQUIRIES: [email protected]
www.grammagazine.com.au | www.thegramstore.com.au
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CONTRIBUTORS
DEAN SCHMIDEGA professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is known as one of Melbourne’s coffee addicts and foodies, regularly seeking out new and interesting cafes and bars. He shares these and the things he prepares at home across social media. His posts celebrate the produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together.
FACEBOOK: imagesdsINSTAGRAM: dsimagesTWITTER: imagesDSE: [email protected]
LAUREN BRUCELauren started her writing career as a communications adviser before she realised she couldn’t ignore her passion for food and the arts any longer. She gave up the world of state politics to concentrate on freelance writing and styling. She has since contributed to Spook, Paper Sea and Junkee and is a regular contributor to GRAM Magazine.
laurendarcybruce.wordpress.comINSTAGRAM: brucemoosemedia
ON THE BANDWAGONTrev has earnt a reputation in the Australian
craft beer industry as a passionate advocate
for local breweries and educating the
masses about the beer they are drinking.
He is the founder and Chair of Bendigo
Beer which runs many events including
the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop
festival.
TWITTER: Onthe_bandwagon
INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon
LISA HOLMENAfter spending most of my early years in Adelaide, I moved to Melbourne in my early 20s and a few years later moved to the big smoke in London. I started my blog, lisaeatsworld.com, to share my two big passions in life – food and travel.My aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible. My current country count is 35 and hope to reach 50 by the end of 2015.
lisaeatsworld.comTWITTER: lisa_eatsworldINSTAGRAM: lisaeatworldFACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld
MEGAN OSBORNEMegan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy.
meganosborne.com.auTWITTER: foodiewritings INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings
BURGERS OF MELBOURNEBurgers of Melbourne is run by one
Melbourne guy that just loves burgers.
I eat, picture and review the burgers of
Melbourne.
burgersofmelbourne.com.au
INSTAGRAM: burgersofmelbourne
JESS PIPERJess is the Junior Vice President of
the blog JP & Melbs as well as the sole
employee. After moving to Melbourne from
Sydney, this lycra clad cyclist started the
blog to embrace her portion control issues
and love of all things edible.
Jess owns a dramatic Puggle with her
ginger husband, who often feature on the
blog, and drools over all things that start
with bacon or end in doughnut.
jpandmelbs.com
INSTAGRAM: jpandmelbs_
TWITTER: jpandmelbs
FACEBOOK: JP & Melbs
LA DONNA DEL VINOLa Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of
this Melbournian with a nose attuned to all
things vinous. A self-confessed Neb Head
(someone who really digs the Nebbiolo
grape), she will happily try anything once
but has a penchant for full-bodied whites,
food-friendly reds and a good digestive.
In her spare time you’ll find her gardening,
cooking, dancing, drinking good vino or
working on her country property with her
husband Wootten.
ladonnadelvino.com
TWITTER: ladonnadelvino
FACEBOOK: la-donna-del-vino
www.chefshat.com.au
A L L B O O K S A V A I L A B L E U N D E R T H E H A T
www.chefshat.com.au
“Chef’s Hat is the place to go when you want to buy anything and everything from drinking straws
and tea light candles all the way through to ovens and larger items, the service they provide is
second to none and they are always there for me when I need advice or assistance. It really is
Melbourne’s chefs and passionate cook’s one stop shop for everything food and kitchen related.”
David Schofield - Executive Chef
MEAT FISH WINE
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NOW OPEN
505 WINE ROOMOPENED: March 8, 2016505 Wine Room is a related yet sophisticated space offering local and international wines paired with carefully chosen, exquisitely designed food.
505 is complemented by its own in-house bottle shop located on the corner, with specialist Sommeliers on hand to provide guidance on wine varieties. The menu at 505 makes it the perfect destination for an early bite or a late supper with a range of delicious options including tuna ceviche, local Snapper with zucchini, fragile, leads and pine nuts, slow cooked lamb shoulder and Violet crumble honeycomb with chocolate Aeros and ice cream.
The food menu is mapped out to specifically highlight which wines suit what menu items, making it easy to enjoy the very best dining experience. The menu is based on seasonal changes and the size of the plates make them perfect to share with friends.
The main bar downstairs offers flexibility for diners to choose from casual high tops or cafe style tables.
505 Wine Room is open 7 days a week from 12pm until late at 505 Malvern Road, Toorak.
505 MALVERN ROAD, TOORAKwww.505wineroom.com.au
FEAST OF MERIT ROOFTOP BAROPENED: March 30, 2016Richmond’s Feast of Merit this month launched their brand new rooftop bar. Head out the back and up the stairs to Feast of Merit’s brand new space, an intimate and secluded secret hideaway serving a delicious middle-eastern snack menu complimented with locally sourced wine and beer as well as delicious jugs of Pimms, Moscow Mule and Aperol Spritz.
As with the famous restaurant, 100 per cent of profits from the bar are invested back into YGAP’s work supporting impact entrepreneurs changing lives in some of the world’s toughest communities. That’s what we call dining (and drinking) with purpose!
The Feast of Merit Rooftop bar is open Tuesday — Thursday: 5pm till late; Friday and Saturday: 3pm till late; Sunday: 12pm till 9pm
117 SWAN STREET, RICHMONDwww.feastofmerit.com
MILKCOWOPENED: April 1, 2016With over 100,000 Facebook followers from all around the world, organic soft serve connoisseurs Milkcow is the real deal. Milkcow is set to make its Aussie debut right here in Melbourne, with an exciting pop up store offering lucky city goers a light, milky and creamy ice cream experience that is sure to make them smile.
Like its name suggests, Milkcow is soft serve that’s just packed with pure milky goodness. Completely natural and made only with organic, locally sourced milk that is delivered straight from the cows, the brand’s distinct soft serves are churned fresh on site every day.
Located over at The Strand, Driver Lane and running from the April 1 through to the May 31, the Milkcow pop up store is a sweet treat not to be missed. And because no show is complete without the support of fantastic co-stars, Brand Works and Amanda May Lee (artisan paper maker and prop atelier) have transformed the once Cacao Lab into a wonderland of colour and fun, think oversized paper soft serve cones and forest of plants. In the delicious department, Naked Truth Chocolates and Sensory Lab will also be there to join in the fun.
THE STRAND, DRIVER LANE MELBOURNEmilkcow.com.au
TRIPPY TACO SOUTHSIDEOPENED: April 2, 2016Trippy Taco has come a long way. A forerunner in the food truck industry, owner Simon Fischer began the business in December 2000 serving his take on Mexican at some of the country’s biggest music festivals. Growing popularity led to a Northside location in 2006, Smith St Collingwood and moving around the corner in 2011 at the start of the “Mexican Wave” tsunami which hit Melbourne. Here it has remained with its original menu since.
Following a soft opening at the end of January, Trippy Taco has now announce the launch of it’s new St Kilda location on Saturday 2 April in St Kilda.
Expect to see more of their street inspired Mexican where a healthy and vegetarian and vegan cuisine takes centre stage.6 ACLAND STREET, ST KILDAtrippytaco.com.au
TAHINIOPENED: March 8, 2016Joseph Haddad , Code Black Coffee founder, has this month launched new Melbourne hot spot, Tahini. Paying homage to his Lebanese roots (to such an extent that he invited family friend, Anthony El-Aridi over from Lebanon to head up the kitchen), Tahini invites diners to discover Lebanese dining that goes beyond the falafel. Fresh, exciting and exceptionally tasty food will have diners come back for more, time and time again.199 WILLIAM STREET, MELBOURNEtahinilebanesediner.com.au
BON AP’OPENED: February 16, 2016With three of Melbourne’s best at the helm, Bon Ap’ was always set for greatness, on a petite scale. Damien Desbois (from Brittany), Francoise Lowe (Arcachon) and Sebastien Carmona’s (Toulouse) new French cafe and wine bar serves contemporary French cuisine, in a relaxed and casual setting. Smaller share plates invites diners to experience the very best of French cooking.193 BRUNSWICK STREET, FITZROYfacebook.com/Bon-Ap
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AROUND THE TRAPS
BATMAN NIGHT MARKET
Melbourne – You know about the amazing food and wine culture, edgy graffiti art, vibrant street music scene and bustling markets, but have you heard about the newest kid on the block?
The new Batman Night Market will combine all of the above - food, craft beer and wine, street art and live music - in one spectacular Saturday evening out. Launched on April 2 at the former Batman Market site in 14 Gaffney Street, Coburg the new Night Market will open its doors from 4-9 pm every Saturday until the end of May.
The Batman Night Market will play host to some of your favourite cuisines from all over the world, Melbourne style, from Peruvian BBQ, Chinese dumplings, Turkish Gozleme, Mexican paletas and Malaysian noodles to
Polish dumplings and Portuguese custard tarts. The Night Market will also have its own Public Bar with some of your favourite alcoholic and non alcoholic beverages at Coburg prices.
Like any great market Batman Night Market will also feature locally and internationally-made art and craft, design, textiles and jewellery to keep you browsing well into the evening.
WHEN: Every Saturday, from 4-9 pm, starting April 2WHERE: 14 Gaffney Street, CoburgWHAT: Free entry, food, drinks, specialty shopping, live music and art
batmanmarket.com.aufacebook.com/batmanmarketinstagram.com/batmanmarket/
BOOTS FOR CHANGE
The Australian Farmers’ Markets Association (AFMA) Boots for Change national awareness campaign symbolised by the simple act of pulling on boots– gumboots, work boots, riding boots, tap boots, cowboy boots, fashion boots – before shopping in local farmers’ markets has attracted wide national support.
Forty-eight farmers’ markets in all states are hosting more than 80 Boots for Change Market Days during April 2016. Some markets are donning their boots once to support their local farming families, while many weekly markets will boot-up every market day during April.
All Boots for Change Market Days will celebrate Australia’s hard-working farming families and engage communities in conversations about the benefits of paddock-plate food supply, farmers’ markets and local, seasonal eating.
The first Boots for Change market days unfolded on April 2, when Albury Wodonga (NSW/VIC), Finley (NSW) Geraldton
(WA) Carlton (VIC), Golden Plains (VIC), and Adelaide Hills, Gawler, Mt Pleasant and Willunga (SA) kick up their boots.
The official launch of Boots for Change will be held at the Orange Farmers’ Market during Food Week on April 9, at North Court, Orange.
Boots for Change partners include Blundstone Australia, Bruny Island Cheese Co – whose brand marque just happens to be a pair of white Blunnie boots, and food and agriculture specialist market research company, Colmar Brunton.
Shoppers at farmers’ markets keen to support the initiative should check their local market’s website or go to: www.bootsforchange.org.au for the latest news on Boots for Change Market Days during April.
Boots for Change is a national activation of a 2015 ABC Heywire Youth Innovation Summit project and made possible by an ABC Heywire Youth Innovation Grant provided by the Foundation for Rural and Regional Renewal.
Enjoy 2 hours FREE parking on Market days
Wed 8am – 4pmFri 8am – 5pmSat 8am – 4pmSun 8am – 4pm
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WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY JESS PIPER
UNCOMMON
If you have a friend coming to visit you and they want a real ‘Melbourne
breakfast experience’ (oh yeah, that’s a thing), walk straight into Uncommon,
Windsor. The fit out, the service, the menu, the cold brew and all those
amazing ferns (plant love) will have them in awe of your amazing life and
breakfast opportunities.
(Side note, I haven’t had a snack in about 12 minutes, so that would mean I
am hungry and you can blame these rambles and tangents on that.)
That ‘healthy’ breakfast thing usually supported by those wearing lycra is
encouraged here, and you hear the murmurs of ‘I’m just going to finish my
chia/acai/grain thing then I might go to bikram, or barre, or maybe I’ll just
talk about the gym until it’s time for cocktails’.
But with Matt Kennedy at the helm, Uncommon provides a brilliant fresh
take on this style of food and still throws in a brekky beef short rib for good
measure. Yes they’ve got the Acai and granola but you are going to find a
lot of other choices will make you want to try the whole damn menu. Trust
me, you can bring your yogi, or your carnivorous friend, and they are both
going to love Uncommon.
Chef Kennedy (no relation to J.F….as far as I’m aware) has created a menu
that reads as well as it tastes. I’d dare say there would be a few pairs of
teeny little food tweezers in that kitchen, and I am totally OK with that. I
ventured to Uncommon a few weeks after it’s opening in December 2015
and it was already running like a well-oiled machine.
I’m typically indecisive when it comes to ordering, so I requested the
assistance of the lovely top-knotted waiter in my decision-making. I really
wanted to try the short rib, but the temperature outside was sitting around
559 degrees, so I will save that bad boy for a cooler day.
After much umming and ahhing, I decided on the market fish in coal oil,
chickpea aioli, minted peas and broadbeans, 65 degree egg, coconut bacon
and mustard nectar dressing. Yes, that is the fanciest sounding breakfast I
have ever ordered. I felt I needed to court it before I consumed it.
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1. I primarily went with this dish because it had the word bacon in it. Then
realised after ordering, this was in fact coconut bacon. Nevertheless, I stuck
with my decision and it was terrific.
2. The fish was Hapuka. Not to be confused with the ever amazing snow
boarding destination of Hakuba. (Ah best times everrrr. Until I fell down and
cracked my coccyx. That’s a story for another day.)
3. 65 degree eggs are a poach-lovers heaven on a plate. So much yolky
goodness. Skills in that kitchen. Sk-ills.
My bacon loving breakfast partner in Crime, AB, went with (big breath) hand
sliced salmon pastrami on pumpernickel (yes they make their own), soft herb
scrambles, whipped honey, salted kernels and chili capers. Wowzer. This was
a damn good looking dish and AB loved it. The house made pumpernickel
looked epic. (Warning: wanky food lingo coming up… but every element
was just prepared so well.)
Uncommon’s food is, you guessed it, a bit left field, and is not going to be
found in every café...its uncommon. (Duahh). Matt Kennedy has created a
gem in Melbourne’s breakfast scene and has recently entered the dinner
realm. (Drooling already.)
The Industry Beans cold brew had me raring to go as well. Ok, I might have
had two…(three). There’s also a great range of teas for those tea-lovers,
a wattleseed chai which I will need to chai (haha…try/chai…) and a vanilla
bean matcha latte for those who need to eat whatever is trending on Twitter
at the moment.
As neither AB or I ever understand the meaning of being full/ordering too
much, we knew breakfast dessert was absolutely going to happen. We
are also those people who stare at everyone else’s meal as it goes past to
judge whether we ordered correctly or whether we need to keep ordering
other things. Yep, those people that just stop their conversation to inspect
others’ meals. We know we do it, we know we may need to repeat the same
conversation seven times, but we are totally ok with that.
I’ve never been a big fan of sweet breakfasts and would usually always
choose the cheese platter (with all cheese options) instead of a sweet
dessert, but these pikelets had my name all over them. (Well they didn’t
have a badge exactly, but I believe they could be renamed in my honour. JP’s
Pikeys. Hm maybe not.)
These little crackers were a 90% banana and flaxseed pikelets, accompanied
with Yarra Valley strawberries, cherries, poached green pawpaw, pure maple
and toasted milk. Yep I think they spelt heaven incorrectly. (Ermagherd).
These were phenomenal.
Uncommon was one of the best meals/’breakfast experiences’ that I have
had. Awesome, friendly service, cracking décor and the food, the glorious
food. Definitely worth the trip and the parking chaos. Just dream of JP’s
pikeys and go test out the menu for yourself.
UNCOMMON60 Chaple Street, Windsor
(03) 9510 6655
uncommonfood.com
facebook.com/uncommon3181 | instagram.com/uncommon3181
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WORDS LAUREN BRUCE PHOTOGRAPHY PIA HAMBOUR
INTERVIEW:DANNY BOWIEN
CHRIS YINGConsidered an embarrassingly clichéd phrase among
those in the industry, ‘fusion food’ has pervaded our food
culture for some time now. Cooking that has its roots
in specific traditions is being coaxed in new directions
- you might see Nutella-filled gyoza on a pub’s dessert
menu, for example, or a seafood bouillabaisse flavoured
with traditionally Indian spices at a modern European
restaurant. It makes sense, a good chef is creative, and
the more food traditions you have been educated in, the
more imaginative you can be with your dishes.
Taking this creativity to another level is the man behind
America’s Mission Chinese Food and Mission Cantina
restaurants, Chef Danny Bowien.
Bowien’s establishments are difficult to comprehend,
even for the seasoned food-eater. Googling “Sichuan
restaurants in NYC” will have Mission Chinese Food
appearing in your search results - but if you are lucky
enough to get beyond our shores to the restaurant in
New York, you’ll find your Mapo tofu and cumin lamb ribs
served alongside decidedly non-Sichuan dishes like fried
chicken and Neapolitan-style pizza. This might not make
sense at first, but the food is so damn tasty you won’t
care by the time you leave.
“I think when people walk into Mission, it’s kind of
disarming,” Bowien says. “But it’s just... our thing. It’s
like going to see music [that you haven’t before], some
musicians have different set-ups on stage, some people
have different lighting. You might not be used to that
musician or how they perform and it disarms you,
because you can’t approach it with a specific mindset.”
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“That’s like at Mission Chinese… you come in and just
don’t know what to expect. You see the wood oven, this
crazy pizza coming out that could be served in Naples.
So I guess that’s our thing. You kind of just have to say
like, ‘f**k it’. The food has to be honest.”
Bowien has been in Melbourne to promote the Mission
Chinese Food (MCF) Cookbook during the Melbourne
Food and Wine Festival (“We’re here to sell a bunch more
cookbooks and like, make some money,” Bowien says in
his no-bulls**t style), alongside his co-writer and friend,
Chris Ying, editor and co-founder of groundbreaking
food magazine, Lucky Peach.
Just like in the conversations between them published
in the cookbook, Ying is always the one to bring Bowien
back down to earth, this time, it’s about the Mission
Chinese ethos that Bowien makes sound so simple.
“The thing is, it sounds kind of easy when Danny puts it
like that; but the truth is it does come down to the fact
that Danny has a very special ability to make food taste
good,” Ying says. “It’s like the hard thing about writing
and music and art, being a chef, at the end of the day,
comes down to a person’s talent and their ability to taste
food. So if you just listen to Danny and ‘do whatever
makes you happy,’ you could end up with a terrible
result! That’s for me personally what’s very special about
working with Danny.”
Bowien and Ying met when the Mission Chinese Food
juggernaut was a humble pop-up restaurant, set up by
Bowien and co-founder Anthony Myint. Operating out
of traditional Chinese takeaway establishment Lung
Shan in the Mission District of San Francisco, Mission
Chinese Food soon gained notoriety and required a few
helping hands, of which Ying was one. The restaurant
has since become a permanent establishment, almost
solely operated by Myint, while Bowien heads up the
restaurants in New York.
With a similar approach to both cooking food and writing
about it, it’s no wonder Ying and Bowien are firm friends.
“I cooked while I was in college, just for fun, to like,
impress girls, I guess,” Ying laughs. “That didn’t work. So
I started cooking at Mission with Danny while I was still
working at [McSweeney’s], this independent publishing
company in the States.”
“We worked together on the restaurant before the book
[was written], so when I met Chris, I thought he was a
cook,” Bowien says. “He was a cook. But I didn’t know he
was a writer, and that he was working with McSweeney’s
at the time.”
“I never really wanted to mix [writing and cooking],”
Ying says. “But Danny and I would shoot the s**t about
cookbooks while we were working at the restaurant, and
then we were like, ‘Let’s just make a cookbook.’”
Thus the concept for the Mission Chinese Food
Cookbook was born, at the same time as Bowien’s talent
was gaining recognition.
“Everything [with Mission Chinese] sort of just happened
so quickly,” Bowien says. “Like, we started getting all
these crazy accolades. I think it’s in the book, but Michael
Bower [an extremely well-known food critic in San
Francisco] came into Mission Street Food one day. And
I was all casual about it like, “Oh, hey, Michael”, because
What’s so refreshing about the narrative that runs throughout the book is how honest it is – which is indicative of Bowien’s and Ying’s style, reflected both in the Mission Chinese Food projects, and in Lucky Peach’s publications.
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I honestly didn’t think he was going to be writing or
critiquing anything at Mission. And then he gave it a great
review. After that I got Rising Star Chef [awarded by the
James Beard Foundation], and then we decided to move
to New York and open up other restaurants.”
But it wasn’t all up and up for Bowien and the Mission
Chinese Food restaurants, which also meant a
rollercoaster ride for the semi-autobiographical, novel-
cum-recipe book. It was a long time before Ying and
Bowien felt the book was complete.
“Every time we thought [the book] was done, something
else would happen,” Bowien says. “Positive and negative.
Like, we got Restaurant of the Year in the New York Times,
and then we got shut down by the Health Department.
It’s like, all these… you know, windfalls, and then horrible
failures.”
“But it’s amazing, because the process of the book was
Danny and me, sitting in rooms in various parts of the
world, spending hours talking and recording hundreds
and hundreds of hours of conversation [to create the
book],” Ying says.
“And as we were doing that, all these other things were
happening. Like, in one of our recorded conversations
for the book, Danny was like, ‘I’m really proud of the
restaurant, and I’ve never had to fire anyone at the
restaurant, they’ve all been here since day one’; then
the next day we get a call and Danny’s like, we gotta go
back to the city because one of our cooks just punched
someone else and we gotta fire him.”
What’s so refreshing about the narrative that runs
throughout the book is how honest it is – which is
indicative of Bowien’s and Ying’s style, reflected both in
the Mission Chinese Food projects, and in Lucky Peach’s
publications.
“I think why it’s so honest is that it’s a conversation
between friends,” Ying says. “I think Danny trusted me to
be honest and at the same time, not make the restaurant
look terrible; and my whole thing was like, if we just tell
the truth and we don’t have any sinister intentions in
anything we do, if we just put it out there, I think we’ll
produce something good. I think that’s all we did to
make the book as honest as it is.”
“If anything, I was very overbearing [towards Chris],”
Bowien says. “I would be like, ‘Chris, we gotta add more,’
but you know, with books, you gotta cut it off at a certain
point.”
It is clear that the strong friendship has not just contributed
to the honesty of the book, but also the upbeat nature
and the warmth that pervades every section, even when
the very difficult parts of Bowien’s history are addressed,
such as the death of his mother.
This trust has also provided the basis of a great business
relationship between the pair.
“Danny and I have been friends for a long time. Before
Mission Chinese was successful, before Lucky Peach was
created, before we had a cookbook, we just hung out and
ate food together,” Ying says. “So it’s doesn’t feel like
we’re colleagues or anything.”
I think with both the Mission Restaurants and Lucky Peach, it’s like, you kind of just have to have a little bit of this naivety and honestly do make a restaurant or make a recipe book for yourself and don’t think about it [too much]
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“It’s weird because we do this book tour and it’s like, for
business, but I think when you become successful, the
people that were there with you before that, I mean, they
have your back,” Bowien says. “And that’s us. I mean,
we’re gonna be old Asian men eating noodle soup at a
restaurant at like 7am together.”
It is clear through all of this that both Ying and Bowien
are brave enough to just do whatever they want to do – a
trait coveted by creatives the world over.
Without appearing to pander to stakeholders or any
other authority, Lucky Peach publishes whatever it wants
– from transcripts of conversations between drunk chefs
and food writers, to illustrations that are vaguely related
to food and are bordering on the absurd.
Likewise, Bowien’s restaurants, Mission Chinese Food and
Mission Cantina, don’t allow any traditional definitions
get in the way of just making some bloody tasty food –
whether that be Mapo tofu layered in a burrito, or serving
a top quality Neapolitan-style pizza at a self-proclaimed
Sichuan restaurant. “That’s how Mission Chinese started
– I was tired of working for other people and having to
run certain dishes on certain days because that’s what
people were expecting to eat,” Bowien says.
“So you have to create your own trajectory at that point.
When you reach your glass ceiling, you can choose to go
down the route of being like, a hotel chef, for example.
But for me, I kinda wanna be able to m be myself. And in
the chef world, it’s actually still not super acceptable yet
to be actually yourself; to be different.”
“There’s a lot of macho chefs out there… and I was
NEVER like that. So I think that’s why I stepped out of
kitchens where you walk in and expect chefs to be in all-
whites, you know… I wanted to do something for myself.”
Ying concurs. “I think with both the Mission Restaurants
and Lucky Peach, it’s like, you kind of just have to have a
little bit of this naivety and honestly do make a restaurant
or make a recipe book for yourself and don’t think about
it [too much],” Ying says.
“Like Danny was saying, we never assumed anyone was
going to review Mission Chinese Food because it wasn’t
even a real restaurant to us. It was just, like, a fun thing.
So was Lucky Peach. You kind of have to have faith that
when you do what you wanna do for yourself, that there’s
people like you who are going to see what you do and
like it.
“You know, Danny does pizza at the Mission Chinese
Restaurant in New York, because he likes to eat pizza,
because he finds it delicious. There shouldn’t be this
dividing line between [what you cook at your restaurant]
and what you like to eat. And it’s the best fucking pizza
in New York, for sure.”
The Mission Chinese Food Cookbook is available online
and in stores now.
missionchinesefood.com
twitter.com/missionfood
instagram.com/missionchinesefood
twitter.com/dannbowien
twitter.com/chrisyingz
instagram.com/dannybowien
instagram.com/chrisyingz
The thing is, it sounds kind of easy when Danny puts it like that; but the truth is it does come down to the fact that Danny has a very special ability to make food taste good.
14
15
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BURGERS OF MELBOURNE
BURGER BUSINESS
Burger Business opened its doors in early 2016, quickly becoming a crowd
favourite to the local residents of Footscray and in particular, Victoria
University students.
The family-run business have taken on customer feedback since their launch
and used it to finess their offering, taking what was a good burger to the
next level.
The Double Bacon Feast is their most popular menu item: two grass-fed
beef patties, two slices of American cheese, smoked bacon, lettuce, tomato,
aioli and ketchup for $15.90 or $11.90 as a single patty version.
It’s really not hard to see why this is a crowd favourite. The grass-fed beef
patties are soft and juicy and the high melt cheese couldn’t have been more
perfect. Complement this with the extra smoked bacon and super soft buns,
and you have an instant recipe for success.
Without modifications, the average price for a burger at Business Burgers is
$11, which is an absolute steal for the quality. Extra patties with cheese are
$4, which is also a fairly good price for 170 gram patties.
On my second visit, I felt like keeping things simple, ordering a double
cheese burger, a side of mini Cajun chicken bites and a chocolate milkshake.
Feeling cheeky, I added the Cajun chicken bites to the burger, and these
little chicken bites gave the burger the extra kick it needed to really enhance
the whole experience.
Alone, these Cajun chicken bites are not for those who cannot handle the
heat. They deliver a real punch, which had the eyes watering, although mixed
with the beef and cheese – it was a combination that I would definitely
recommend.
The milkshakes can only be described in one word - awesome! So much
flavour and so much thickness, the way milkshakes are meant to be made.
Burger Business has now lifted the burger game in Footscray to a new level.
A place that should be on everyone’s ever-growing Melbourne burger list,.
If you are a local and haven’t heard of Burger Business until now, you can
thank me later.
BURGER BUSINESS230 Nicholson St, Footscray
(03) 9396 0368
UNCOMMON
GRAM FEATURE
THINGS WE LOVE
With their new location opening right out onto Coventry Street, Ba Ba Roll Spice and Rice
at South Melbourne Market continues to grow in cult-like status with Market shoppers,
local workers and residents, thanks to their deliciously fresh and tasty lunch options.
We love Ba Ba’s famous bánh mi, a mouth-watering
Vietnamese baguette laden with fresh herbs, sweet chilli
sauce, carrot, lettuce and your choice of pork, chicken, fish
cakes or tofu. Bursting with flavour, we know you won’t
mind the short wait while it’s made to order.
Their menu also showcases Indian, Thai and Vietnamese
dishes including pho that is full to the brim with goodness
and made to order. Rice paper rolls, samosas and rice
dishes are also available.
Stall S10, Food Hall - South Melbourne Market
BA BA ROLL, SPICE & RICE
BA BA ROLL, SPICE & RICE AT STALL S10
SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU
The Pie Project is a collection of 60 sweet pie recipes, in all their bubbling, fruity, caremelised,
buttery glory. This is not a book about French patisserie or fine-dining desserts, these are just
really good recipes for the home cook to blow the socks off their friends and family.
Authors Phoebe & Kristen, encourage readers to use imperfect fruit, play around with latticed
pastry and bake the pies in whatever they have handy (some are cooked in skillets, or even
enamel bowls).
Pies are very forgiving desserts: spillages really are just an opportunity for more caremelisation
and a misshapen one just adds to the rustic feel!
Phoebe and Kirsten are out to convince the world that pie really is a dish that should be
enjoyed every day and The Pie Project is the collection of recipes that will make it happen!
RRP: $29.95 - Avaliable in all good bookstores
THE PIE PROJECT - BY PHOEBE WOOD AND KIRSTEN JENKINS
Published by Hardie Grant Books
gram_magazinefollow gram magazine on instragram for your daily foodie inspiration
18
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY MEGAN OSBORNE
A FOODIE’S GUIDE TO QUEENSTOWN
Any individual that wears the title ‘Foodie’ (self-proclaimed or not) with
pride, is also likely to be someone that plans the food component of their
holidays... wisely. A little research goes a long way, and whether you’re
on one end of the spectrum—that asks people who have been, and then
the locals about where to go—or the other—that you reserve a spot in a
restaurant first, and look at nearby hotels to stay in second—food still rates
very high on your priority list for a true travel experience.
Queenstown in the South Island of New Zealand is a breathtakingly
beautiful place to visit all year round, but if you’re looking to hit the slopes
this winter, visit during the coldest months (June to September, with
August being the best for snow) and you won’t be disappointed.
Prior to travelling, I embarked on a little word-of-mouth discovery from
people who had visited, lived or worked in Queenstown. ‘Where is the best
place to eat?’ was always one of my initial questions, and in retrospect I’m
very disappointed to tell you that the common answer was Fergburger. As
far as burgers go, they were good. But lining up for the better part of an
hour with 70 other people—in the snow—good? Safe to say, unless you’re
a burger fiend, steer clear.
This list of dining suggestions includes top-notch hospitality, gourmet
grub, and carefully considered cuisine.
BREAKFAST, BRUNCH, COFFEE + SNACKS
Avoid the typical hotel buffet breakfast, where the eggs are always
overdone, and copious amounts of salt are needed on the soggy array of
mushrooms, bacon and beans. Try one of these cute local spots instead.
VUDU CAFE & LARDER
There’s Vudu, and then there’s Vudu Cafe & Larder. There’s no real harm in
getting the two confused; the only difference is the modern and light-filled
interior of the latter. The coffee is super, enough to make any Melburnian
feel at home, and the baked goods are rustic and mouth-watering. The
breakfast offering is hearty and quirky, with standouts being some tasty
grilled haloumi and poached eggs. Definitely a stop to fill up on protein
and get you ready for an adventure-packed day.
16 Rees St, Queenstown
vudu.co.nz
19
THE EXCHANGE
Similar to a brekkie you might have wandering down Chapel Street in
Prahran, Burke Road in Camberwell, or—let’s be honest—most streets
in Melbourne, The Exchange prides itself on flavourful coffee, freshly
squeezed fruit and veg juices, and bursting-with-zing dishes. The rustic
eggs Benedict with a house-made potato rosti and creamed spinach is a
(fantastic) punch to the tastebuds, and the sweet corn fritters with maple
bacon doesn’t disappoint either.
39 Ballarat Street, Queenstown
theexchangecafe.kiwi
COOKIE TIME
What started out as a cheeky post-snowboarding snack, turned into an
addictive, daily calorie-crazy ritual. Cookie Time is a bit of a New Zealand
institution, and if you’ve ever had one of their steaming hot and still gooey
treats fresh out of the oven, you’ll know why. They also run some sweet
deals like cookie happy hour, and discounts for lift-pass holders. A must
munch for those with a sweet tooth.
18 Camp Street, Queenstown
cookiebar.co.nz
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DINNER + DRINKS
If you’re from Melbourne, then you’ve probably spent most your life, living
in a food-lovers paradise (cue Coolio). Lucky for you, there are a TONNE of
restaurants in Queenstown. But after a few conversations indicating local
attitudes ‘more is better, feed me meat, lots of meat!’, we decided to do our
own investigating. Sans the snobbery, I think it’s fair to say that Melbourne
has some ripper food, and that quality over quantity reigns popular. Here’s
a few of Queenstown’s best (from a Melburnian perspective).
MADAM WOOS
Modern Malaysian Hawker-inspired cuisine meets funky upbeat interior.
Wait for your table (and you will have to wait) upstairs at an intimate
lounge/bar, and try one of their intriguing cocktails, such as the apple and
elderflower collins, or the lemongrass and chilli mojito. Dining downstairs
is casual and close quarters, so don’t be surprised if conversation occurs
between neighbouring tables—something that seems natural within the
friendly and sociable vibe Madam Woos creates. From roti rolls to laksa,
market fish curry, and shredded duck noodles, to lychee salads, Madam
Woos is definitely a flavour journey. Finish up with crispy fried banana and
spicy ginger ice cream.
5 The Mall, Lower Ballarat Street, Queenstown
madamwoo.co.nz
RATA
Rata by Michelin chef Josh Emett is an elegant and refined dining concept,
set in a dark and sexy contemporary interior. The food is of exceptional
calibre, with the wine list featuring select drops from the Otago region,
and slightly further afield New Zealand, too. Little morsels of goats
cheese profiteroles with blossom honey and rosemary make for delicious
starters, as does the seared Wakanui sirloin with crispy ox tongue, oyster
mayonnaise and edamame. Every dish is presented with masterful
technique, and if you’re lucky enough to slide into a spot at the bar, you
can watch the elaborateharvey cocktail making process too. The highlight
is the beautifully quaint cheese trolley that gets rolled table to table after
the main course. Reservations are essential, so don’t miss out on this fine
dining experience and make sure to book ahead.
Te Nuku, 43 Ballarat St, Queenstown
ratadining.co.nz
EICHARDT’S BAR
Downstairs from the boutique private hotel—Eichardt’s—is this intimate
little bar that makes a perfect cosy spot to settle yourself into for the
evening. Order Bollinger by the glass, or one of their more exciting cocktails
while you nestle down into a luxurious sofa. In the coldest weather you can
21
enjoy the crackling fireplace and smooth mulled wine, while you nibble
on delicious treats such as wild game terrine with homemade pickles and
relish, or calamari in squid ink batter with lemon aioli, followed by cute and
scrumptious petit fours.
2 Marine Parade, Queenstown
eichardtsbar.com
A DAY TRIP TO ARROWTOWN
Only a half hour trip out of Queenstown, plan a day in nearby Arrowtown.
If you don’t have a car, there’s a handy local bus that will drop you off
and pick you up, leaving you to peruse the numerous delis, old-fashioned
shops and even partake in a scenic river walk.
THE CHOP SHOP FOOD MERCHANTS
You will queue for The Chop Shop, but it will be worth it. Trendy and quirky
food pairings result in some fantastic dishes, such as a smoked pork hock
hash, and surprisingly good coffee served in boat-sized mugs. The menu
is a strange mix of many different cuisines, but it really works, and if the
crowds are anything to go by, it consistently works, too.
44 Buckingham Street, Arrowtown, Queenstown
PATAGONIA CHOCOLATES
A small local chain store, Patagonia Chocolates also have a cafe in
Queenstown, but it’s worth a pop by the Arrowtown location to pick up
a hot lavender chocolate to keep you warm while you explore the main
shopping strip. With gourmet gelato for the warmer weather, you can grab
some takeaway, or dine in and explore ridiculously rich and memorable
sweet treats. The individual chocolates are rather exceptional for a take-
home tidbit.
31 Ramshaw Lane, Arrowtown
patagoniachocolates.co.nz
22
WORDS LISA HOLMEN PHOTOGRAPHY TIM GREY
TENPIN KITCHEN
When I first moved to Melbourne, I lived in Port Melbourne for a couple of
years, so I have developed a natural fondness for the bayside suburb. It’s
amazing to see how much the area has grown over the years. Today it’s
quite the foodie hub – packed full of cafes, restaurants, “high end” takeaway
joints and a lot of gyms. I remember spending many balmy summer evenings
enjoying a drink or two at the former R Bar on Beach Road, not so much for
the food, but for the gorgeous views over the ocean – a perfect way to wind
up a stressful working week.
R Bar may be closed but Tenpin Kitchen, a South-East Asian-inspired
restaurant, has taken up residence, opening in mid-December last year. In
case you’re thinking it doubles as a bowling alley, regretfully it does not. The
name is inspired by the giant bowling pin, scavenged from Mentone Bowls,
that now takes residence in the upstairs bar.
Tenpin Kitchen is the brain child of hospitality dream team Nick Savage,
Lyndal Barnes and Matt Thurley, who have teamed up with Executive Chef,
Ashley Richey, (Mr Lawrence, Chin Chin, Mecca Bah) to convert this rundown
two storey space into a contemporary eatery with an Asian twist.
23
24
With Richey in the kitchen you can expect dishes full of palate-popping,
punchy flavours. He believes in honest, tasty food and prides himself in
sourcing local and sustainable ingredients in his cooking. With hints of
Vietnamese, Thai, Indonesian and perhaps a touch of Japanese, Richey
has cleverly crafted a menu driven by technique and spice. Designed to
share, the plates are best enjoyed with a group of family and friends, so you
can enjoy as many as possible! Think Harvey Bay half-shell scallops with
smoked trout lemongrass, pork and kimchi dumplings and duck larb paired
with chilli, mince, lime and roasted rice. There are also plenty of options for
people who are vegan or gluten-free.
As far as the interior goes, it’s fairly unrecognisable from its former R Bar
days. The dining room downstairs is light and airy, boasting a soaring ceiling
and stripped-back concrete walls. It has kept a semi industrial feel, with
subtle design cues for Asian pop cult classics on the menu to provide a
touch of brightness. A long marble communal table takes centre stage,
surrounded by a wrap around mustard coloured velvet banquette and
classroom-style blonde timber tables and chairs.
The service was a little frustrating on our first visit and it was really difficult
to get the waitress’s attention to order or just track down a wine. But I
guess this could be down to some initial teething problems. The restaurant
manager was very friendly, knowledgeable and eager to please.
We started with a comforting bowl of buttermilk fried chicken ribs ($12.50),
which are definitely worth getting your hands dirty for (trust me!). Crispy,
golden and buttery in all the right places, the batter is exceptional and
finished with a generous sprinkling of five spice salt to give it a bit of punch.
The chicken itself is warm, moist and beautifully cooked with a nice side of
kewpie mayonnaise.
A plate of pork belly was packed full of zest, flavour and texture. A salad of
wombok slaw was nicely dressed with nahm jim and studded with cashew
25
nuts. The belly itself was fleshy and tender but just needed a little bit more
crispiness on the top layer.
Corn and coriander fritters were nice little golden morsels, crisp on the
exterior and pillowy within. Served with lettuce cups, they are perfect for
wrapping and eating with your hands, with a generous dollop of roast
tomato sambal.
My personal favourite was the tea-smoked salmon salad which burst with
freshness and summery flavour. Slithers of fresh mango were paired with
lemongrass to give the dish great depth in flavour and a hint of chilli for a
bit of heat. The trout was cooked beautifully, with a subtle smokey flavour.
Cocktails are a focus on the menu, with a mouth-watering ensemble of
long, short, stemmed options. Expect twists on classics like the “Hidden
Mule”, a refreshing concoction of lemongrass-infused vodka, vanilla, citrus
and ginger, and the “Cha Cha” – a spiced tea accompanied by spiced pear
syrup and vanilla vodka. My pick was the “Bottanica”, a fluorescent green
cocktail infused with botanically rich gin, freshly squeezed lime-juice and
elderflower liquor. Highly recommended.
There’s also a good range of small-parcel wines sourced both internationally
and locally, craft beers and spirits.
TENPIN KITCHEN67 Beach Street, Port Melbourne
(03) 9041 3211
tenpinkitchen.com.au
instagram.com/tenpinkitchen
26
INGREDIENTSDAY ONE
2kg whole goat shoulder, cut like osso bucco (ask
your butcher)
1 small head garlic (cloves separated, lightly ‘smashed’
with a mallet)
10 anchovies
3 bay leaves
½ bunch thyme
½ bunch oregano
750ml (1 bottle) full bodied red wine 250ml extra
virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon black peppercorns, crushed in the
mortar and pestle
DAY TWO10 shallots, peeled and roughly chopped
5 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
250ml red wine
500ml chicken stock
375ml tin crushed tomato
½ cup panko breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons Parmesan, grated
50g unsalted butter, cut into cubes
GARNISHES2 red peppers
2 yellow peppers
2 cups olive oil
1 bay leaf
1 garlic clove
3 sprigs thyme
1 cup manzanilla or kalamata olives, deseeded and
roughly broken up 50g piece of ricotta salata
Radicchio leaves
METHODDAY ONESeparate all the goat pieces and place in a suitable
rectangular plastic container with a well fitting lid.
Add all the ingredients, massage the goat pieces well
so that they are all well coated and leave in the fridge
overnight to marinate.
DAY TWOThe next day strain the goat pieces and discard
the marinating liquid, but keep all the other bits of
garnish with the goat.
Preheat oven to 160°C on fan-forced. Spread all the
goat pieces over a deep dish baking tray (a cast iron
Le Creuset style dish is perfect). Equally spread the
shallots, garlic, red wine, chicken stock and tomato
amongst the goat and ensure it is well covered (if
some parts are sticking out that is ok).
Liberally scatter the breadcrumbs and grated
Parmesan all over the goat, drizzle with extra virgin
olive oil and a few knobs of butter. Cover with silicon
paper and wrap tightly with foil and cook in an oven
on 160°C for 4 hours. Check for doneness – the meat
should be falling off the bone (if not done, return to
the oven for a further 30 minutes.)
Remove from the oven when done. Season with salt
and pepper, and add garnishes to dish.
GARNISHESCut the peppers into “cheeks” by following the natural
seams of the pepper, use an asparagus peeler to peel
the skin off the peppers. Place the pepper cheeks in
a shallow saucepan with the olive oil, bay leaf, garlic
and thyme and put on a low heat on the stove. Bring
to a simmer, cook gently for 10 minutes, we want the
peppers to soften but not fall apart. Take off the heat
and allow to cool slightly in the oil, then gently lift out
the peppers and season with salt.
TO SERVEScatter the torn olives over the goat, and the peppers,
then use a microplane to grate the ricotta over the
top and serve! At Union Dining we also serve the goat
with some radicchio leaves.
CHEF’S TIP“This recipe is one of my favourites. An abbacchio is
a classic Tuscan dish, usually with a whole baby lamb
or goat. It is a braised dish with loads of big flavours
and best served as a shared dish in the middle of
the table for everyone to get stuck into. The recipe
takes a couple of days but it is worth it! If you are not
serving it immediately, allow goat to cool in the dish
and store in fridge, the next day the flavours will be
more developed, just remove any solidified extra fat
before you reheat the goat in the same dish.”
ABBACCHIO OF GOAT SHOULDER, PEPPERS AND
SALTED RICOTTARECIPE UNION DINING FEATURED IN FLAVOURS OF URBAN MELBOURNE By Smudge Publishing
SERVES FOUR
INGREDIENTS
BASIC DOUGH1kg ‘00’ fine baker’s flour
100g semolina, plus more for dusting 30g fresh
baker’s yeast
20g fine salt
720ml water (warmed to 30°C) 40ml olive oil
TOPPINGConfit garlic
Mozzarella
Capers
Red onion
Olives
Truffled mackerel
Mascarpone
Dill
METHOD
BASIC DOUGHCombine the yeast and the water. Give it a little mix
to break up the yeast, then let stand for 20 minutes.
In a large bowl, combine the flour, semolina and
yeast mix. Knead for 10 minutes or until the dough is
smooth and taut.
Now add the salt and knead for a further 5 minutes
until well combined.
Add the oil, kneading until combined. Place ball of
dough in a large bowl and cover with cling wrap. Let
it rise in a warm spot for 1-2 hours, or until the dough
has doubled in size.
Once doubled, divide the dough into portions. You
should get 8-10 dough balls per batch depending on
how big you make them. Aim for 250g-280g balls.
Roll each piece into tight balls. Dust with flour then
put on a tray to let them rise again, making sure they
have enough room to double in size without touching
each other. Cover with a damp (not wet) cloth and let
rise for about 45-60 minutes.
Oil the pizza tray and add a light coating of semolina.
Stretch the pizza out onto the tray.
TOPPINGCover the base with confit garlic then add mozzarella,
red onions, olives and capers and pop it into a oven
set to the highest temperature.
TO SERVE When the pizza is cooked, cut it into slices and then
add some dollops of mascarpone, mackerel fillets
and a sprinkle of fresh dill.
CHEF’S TIP“We use sourdough culture for our dough but for this
recipe I have substituted it with fresh baker’s yeast.”
RETURN OF THE MACKRECIPE MOON DOG CRAFT BREWERY FEATURED IN FLAVOURS OF URBAN MELBOURNE By Smudge Publishing
SERVES 8-10
Recipes featured in this month’s edition of
GRAM Magazine, proudly brought to you by
Flavours of Urban Melbourne - Edition 2.
Published by Smudge Publishing
RRP: $79.99
Available at all good bookstores
30
In the mornings across Italy you’ll find espresso bars filled
with locals grabbing a coffee and maybe a pastry before
continuing on their way to work. It is a ritual, something they
do at the same place and generally the same time, every day,
without fail. You’ll often see people striking up a conversation
with whoever is next to them, or having a chat to the barista,
always standing, never sitting. While this process is usually
quick and could probably be done on the run, takeaway
coffee is not the norm, it is about socialising, enjoying that
first cup at the cafe and taking time to savour a moment.
This is where Dan Chrystal comes into the story, originally
from WA with a background in finance, he moved here to
pursue a career in insurance before becoming disillusioned
and handing in his resignation. He wanted to enter the
hospitality scene and give people a high level of service,
so when the opportunity arose for him to run his own little
espresso bar, he jumped at the chance. Just over a year ago
he opened Stand Up Cafe, which operates from a laneway
window to give Melburnians in the area a place to stop briefly
for their daily caffeine hit, enjoy some social interaction and
feel welcomed, without needing to sit down. People in the
city are always in a rush and often prefer takeaway coffee,
however Stand Up regulars often hang around at the bar to
chat to Dan or mingle with each other in the lane. There’s
even a basketball ring on the side of the building to shoot
some hoops while you wait for your coffee.
Talking about the coffee, Dan wanted to partner with a
roaster who shared his desire to provide exceptional service
and also a high quality product. The choice was made to use
Seven Seeds and their Seasonal Espresso Blend, which is
adapted regularly depending on the crop. The current one is
50% Ethiopian and 25% Colombian, providing drinkers with a
bright and lively cup, balanced by the remaining 25% of beans
from Brazil which give it body. Seven Seeds are known for a
lighter roast, designed to bring out the fruitier characteristics,
however the blend has been engineered to give you flavours
of butterscotch, raisin and cocoa which means the coffee
also works well for those who take milk. As you know, I
usually tend to seek out a darker roast, however I still enjoy
the Seasonal Espresso from Seven Seeds because I find the
acidity to be well balanced regardless of the composition.
Dan has made his mark on this little corner off Flinders
Street, endearing himself to the locals who want good coffee
without the fuss. It’s about service with a smile, passion for the
product he works with and ultimately creating a relationship
that brings his customers back on a daily basis. He may be
very chilled and laid back, but for Dan coffee is a drink best
served standing up.
REVIEWS
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON
40 ACRES CLEAR AS MUD PORTER
SEVEN SEEDS - SEASONAL ESPRESSO BLEND
Autumn has finally arrived and it’s a time when beer lovers
have the best of both worlds. Mild, sunny days and cool
nights mean a hoppy pale ale after work and a nice dark ale
with dinner. Oh, the joy! With this is mind, I thought I’d let
you all know about a particularly good porter that has just
been released by new guys on the block, 40 Acres Brewing.
Based in Sandon, central Victoria 40 Acres is the passion
project of Trev Mitchell and his wife Jo. They run a completely
organic farm (40 acres) with some cows, pigs, organic hops
and a little farm stay for any Melbournites keen to escape
the rat race for a weekend. The Clear As Mud Porter is
their second release, the first being a delicious session IPA,
brewed for the recent Bendigo Craft Beer & Cider Festival
so that they had more than one beer to talk about!
Clear As Mud Porter is true to style with no chocolate
malt added. Even so, I found it to have a spicy, chocolate
flavour with a dense, dark appearance with some slight
sweetness and a delightful coffee coloured head which is
dense and fluffy. I really liked it, but as always, I like to get
the brewer’s insights as well. I had a chance to talk to Trev
about the reactions he got from punters at the festival. “It
was definitely polarising. Precisely half mentioned it was is
too strong or dark for them while the other half rated it as
the best beer they’ve ever had! One gentleman, a 72 year
old, said it was the best dark beer he’d had in his life and his
wife wanted to have my babies. I don’t think I’ll be taking
him up on that though.” Ok, *ahem*…. wow.
Although I’m not quite ready to offer my better half to
Trev just yet, I do agree the Clear As Mud Porter is good
enough to make you at least consider it. Clear As Mud
is available throughout central Victoria at good beer
venues and bottle shops and in Melbourne at selected,
lucky venues. Check out some home delivery options at:
boozebud.com.au/beer
Stand Up Cafe - rear of 524 Flinders St CBD Traveller - 2/14 Crossley St, CBDPatricia - cnr Little Bourke St & Little William St, CBDSquare & Compass - 222 Clarendon St, East MelbourneHortus - 131-141 Harbour Esplanade, DocklandsMile End Bagels - 14 Johnston St, Fitzroy Burnside - 87 Smith St, FitzroyKines - 11 Hope St, Brunswick
HERE ARE A FEW CAFES WHERE YOU CAN ENJOY THE SEVEN SEEDS SEASONAL BLEND -
[email protected] 8664
ABV: 4.8 %STYLE: PorterSERVING TEMP: 4-6 degrees (colder than usual)FOOD PAIRING: Steak / Chocolate Mud CakeORIGIN: Bendigo, VictoriaPRICE (RRP): Takeaway $4 330ml, $75 cartonCHECK OUT: fortyacres.com.au
31
“Oh my, that’s delicious!” exclaimed my sister-in-law at dinner.
I had just poured her a glass of the Quartz Hill Viognier and she
had sampled it before I even had the chance to. I hastily grabbed
my glass to see what all the fuss was about. Normally I am a little
suspect of the Viognier grape, only because of how infrequently
I get to try it. Not being that familiar with the Quartz Hill winery
from central Victoria, I decided to see what this one had to offer.
This wine was made from low-yielding grapes by two winemakers,
Darrin Gaffy of the Principia wines and John Durham of Del Rios.
They opted for a pristine, high-flavoured wine that was matured
in aged French oak on lees for 16 months to give the wine great
mouthfeel. The palate says hello with fresh, zingy acidity that is
quickly followed up by full texture, thick lanolin notes and fancy
French oak. Think flavours of paw paw with a hint of butter. The
overall palate was smooth and beautifully balanced with cool-
climate Chardonnay-like characters. Suffice to say that our little
dinner party was impressed and we finished the bottle off all too
quickly alongside a Moroccan chicken tagine.
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LA DONNA DEL VINO
QUARTZ HILL Viognier 2014 Pyrenees, Central Victoria. RRP: $32
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BARD/UP
TWO WRONGS South YarraIn collaboration with Pistonhead Lager Australia and Beau Joie Australia
Things were a bit quiet at the South Yarra end of Chapel St with a lot of the new bars
and restaurants opening down in Windsor. That is until Two Wrongs Melbourne opened and
made it right again. Taking over the space under The Olsen Hotel, Zachary Riggs and Isaac
Constantine have provided us with a venue that is full of contradictions. It’s a bar where the
beer and cider come in cans, but also a restaurant where you can eat amazing food and drink
fine champagne from cut crystal glasses. There are rotating DJs to keep you entertained
while you have a game of pool, or grab the couch in front of the TV and play Mario Kart on
the Nintendo 64 and practice for the weekly Wednesday night Mario Kart comp.
Going back to the food on offer, the boys have partnered with talented chef Paul Turner (ex.
Qualia, Church St Enoteca, Cutler & Co.) to provide patrons with a fine dining experience
without fuss and pretension. It’s about having quality produce, prepared in an inventive way
but in an environment where you feel comfortable and relaxed. A second bar upstairs with
private booths gives you a place to start or finish the night with one of the great cocktails,
and while there is a little grunge everywhere you look, the whole space has a sense of luxury
and once you arrive it’s very hard to leave.
You may not expect it, but prepare to be looked after by staff who actually care, and believe
it when we tell you that you’ll come back again and again, trying to discover what’s so wrong
with this place that makes it so right.
HEAD TO BARDUP.COM.AU TO CHECK OUT THE VIDEO.
INSTAGRAM - @bardupmelb
FACEBOOK - facebook.com/bardupmelb
TWO WRONGS
637 Chapel St, South Yarra, VIC, 3141
9827 4510
twowrongs.com.au
OUT AND ABOUTFEAST OF MERIT ROOFTOP LAUNCH
Richmond’s Feast of Merit this month launched their brand new rooftop bar. Head out the back and up the stairs to Feast of Merit’s brand new space, an intimate and secluded secret hideaway serving a delicious middle-
eastern snack menu complimented with locally sourced wine and beer as well as delicious jugs of Pimms, Moscow Mule and Aperol Spritz.
MISSION CHINESE FOOD CHINIZZA PARTY
The MFWF’s Chinizza Party – meant to be a book signing with some pizza and booze served on the side – was an entrée to the Attica dinner main course of Lucky Peach Editor-In-Chief Chris Ying, and Mission Chinese Food co-founder and rising star chef Danny Bowien’s book tour. It was a gaggle of people trying to get a taste
of the world’s food elite for those who missed out on the Attica golden ticket. Victor Liong of Lee Ho Fook and Lawyers, Guns and Money served up his “Chinizza” – a fusion mouth-party of fried pizza dough, buffalo mozzarella and spring onion – while Bowien and Ying briefly spoke about their fantastic book.
PHOTOGRAPHY MAX KRUSE CREATIVE
PHOTOGRAPHY PIA HAMBOUR
33
THE DIARY
11 April 2016REGIONAL VICTORIA COMES TO MELBOURNEEureka89 - Riverside Quay, Southbank
One of Australia’s most respected and awarded regional chefs, Robin Wickens of the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld, will prepare a lavish five course dinner designed around the highest quality of his locally sourced produce, at Eureka 89 on Monday 11 April 2016. Wines will be matched with each course.
Working collaboratively with Eureka 89 Executive Chef Renee Martillano, Robin Wickens aims to bring the best of the Grampians region – including the property’s own beef and lamb that has been born and bred in Dunkeld – to the heart of Southbank, Melbourne.
Tickets: $170 per personTables of 10: $1600 (enter coupon code eureka10 and click ‘Apply Coupon’ to apply table discount)
eureka89.com.au royalmail.com.au
1 May 2016FEAST ASIAImmigration Museum - 400 Flinders Street, Melbourne
Experience Asia in the city with a sample of culinary delights, vibrant performances and iconic traditions from one of the most captivating continents on earth.
Enjoy a range of hands on activities including Japanese Taiko drumming, Martial arts and Chinese Lion Dancing workshops alongside Filipino BBQ, Vietnamese coffee and Taiwanese street food.
Feast Asia will also feature an Asian beer bar, concert hall, panel discussions and tastings of the finest whiskey from the region.
Early bird tickets $15 (until 24 April)Adults $17Concession, Members and kids FREEmuseumvictoria.com.au/immigrationmuseum
22 April 2016RICE AROUND THE WORLD: INDIA TO LOUISIANAThe Neff Market Kitchen - Stall 90, Cecil Street, South Melbourne
Rice is far more than just a basic staple; it creates impressive, flavour packed main meals from around the world. In this class David introduces four different varieties and cooking techniques, with recipes including Indian spiced pilaf to accompany chicken tikka curry, Chinese style kim chee lup cheong fried rice, Louisiana ham and bacon jambalaya, and for something sweet, an Indonesian black rice coconut pudding.
Whether you want to explore a new cuisine, learn some new techniques or simply expand your cooking repertoire, our highly experienced instructors will teach you how to prepare delicious dishes that are guaranteed to impress.
Time: 6.30 - 8.30pmCooking Level: Basic – intermediateIncludes: lunch/dinner and recipe packCost: $105.00 ppsouthmelbournemarket.com.au
14 April 2016VIETNAMESE VERMICELLI SALAD AND SPRINGROLLS MASTERCLASSBa’get - Elizabeth St - Argus Building 359 Elizabeth Street, Melbourne
Learn the secrets to making delicious, mouth-watering Vietnamese Vermicelli Salads and the perfect accompliment - crispy delectable spring rolls with dipping sauce.
This hands on masterclass will take you through making lemongrass beef, nuoc mam, and spring rolls. We’ll taste our way through Vietnamese flavours, herbs and sauces. The class culminates in a sumptuous dinner with cocktails to match. Ba’get is breathing new life into Age-Old Recipes. Included:Welcome cocktail on arrival and drink with meal.Hands on cooking demonstration. You will be chopping and marinating all night long. Food, food, food. You won’t go hungry and there’ll be plenty to take home.Showbag filled with recipes and offers.
$58.35 per person. Tickets avaliable through EventBritebaget.com.au
10 April 2016WINE AND CHEESE FEST 2016 PRESENTED BY NAKED WINESMeat Market - 3 Blackwood Street, North Melbourne
Following the great success of the 2014 and 2015 spring events at Seaworks in Williamstown, The Wine and Cheese Fest is moving to the Meat Market heritage building in North Melbourne with new autumn outlook.
Showcasing over 40 exhibitors, live entertainment, jazz band, DJ, Grape Stomp Comp, Kids Zone, amazing heritage ambient and setting, this event has something for everyone!
Tickets on sale at following prices:- $26 for Entry Only + Festival Glass ($30 at the door)- $32 for GA + 5 Tokens* + Festival Glass ($40 at the door)
*Tokens are worth $2 each and are redeemable for a 30ml-50ml of wine (picollo tasting glass) at the participatring vendors. Tokens will be sold on the event as well.
Group Bookings: cheers@wineandcheesefest.com.auwineandcheesefest.com.auinstagram.com/wineandcheesefest
17 April 2016GAUCHITO GIL’S MALBEC WORLD DAYMeat Market - 3 Blackwood Street, North Melbourne
Come join us for a celebration of Argentina’s most famed grape including examples from Australia. This is red wine loving heaven!
WHO IS GAUCHITO GIL?He is an Argentine Robin Hood-like character who stole from the rich to give to the poor. As a result, he gained somewhat of a following and in wonderful Argentinean twist of fate, is effectively known as the patron saint of thieves.
Malbec World Day has traditionally been dominated by Argentina as Mendoza really is the spiritual home of the variety. With many great examples available in Australia, we are ‘stealing’ some of the lime light and plan of celebrating both Argentinean and Australian examples of the grape.
Time: 1pm till 6pmTickets include an epic Plumm Vintage REDa wine glass (valued at $30) for you to taste from and take home plus ALL wine tastes. No tockens
As tradition has it, the Golden Empanada Trophy will be back in Melbourne as some of the culinary best fight it out in the professional and people’s choice competition. Empanadas will be available to purchase on the day as well as other tasty treats.
bottleshopconcepts.com/gauchitogil
34
CHEF’S HAT131 Cecil StSouth MelbournePhone: 03 9682 1441chefshat.com.au
SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKETCorner of Coventry and Cecil Streets, South MelbournePHONE: 03 9209 6295southmelbournemarket.com.au
SPIRAL FOODSUnit 12, 51 Moreland Road CoburgPHONE: 8616 7800spiralfoods.com.au
SQUARE [email protected]/au
YARRA VALLEY DAIRY70-80 McMeikans Rd, Yeringyvd.com.au
ADVERTISERS DIRECTORY
THE GRAM STORE MONTHLY SPECIALS
GROUNDED PLEASURESSEVEN SPICE SRI LANKAN CHAIR200gmWAS $12.90
APRIL ONLY $9.05
USE CODE: CHOCCHAI30
GROUNDED PLEASURESAFRICAN RED DRINKING CHOCOLATE200gmWAS $11.90
APRIL ONLY $8.30
USE CODE: CHOCCHAI30
PRANA CHAIAGAVE BLEND250gmWAS $24.00
APRIL ONLY $16.80
USE CODE: CHOCCHAI30
PRANA CHAIMASALA BLEND250gmWAS $20.00
APRIL ONLY $14.00
USE CODE: CHOCCHAI30
GROUNDED PLEASURESTAHITIAN VANILLADRINKING CHOCOLATE200gmWAS $12.80
APRIL ONLY $8.95
USE CODE: CHOCCHAI30
CIRELLI COFFEECHOCOLATTA DRINKING CHOCOLATE200gmWAS $12.00
APRIL ONLY $8.40
USE CODE: CHOCCHAI30
THE GRAM STORE
30% OFF ALL DRINKING CHOCOLATE AND CHAI
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HOT CHOCOLATEAND CHAI SALE
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