GRANDE DAME Dolores Cakebread - ldei.org · CriCKEtt KarSOn Owner LiefKarson Public Relations Ltd. 23533 Merchantile Road, Suite 118 ... Charleston is gearing up for 2015. One important

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Dolores Cakebread

GRANDE DAME

junior chef

Ellie Cenname

future Grande Dame?

FEATURES 4-7 Grande Dame Dolores Cakebread

8-9 Summer Board Meeting

10 Legacy Awards

11 M.F.K. Fisher House

12-15 Cooking with Kids

16-17 Sysco 18-19 Kikkoman

20-21 Wente

23 Green Tables

27 Edible London

DEPARTMENTS

24-26 Chapter News 28-29 Member Milestones

31 Submission Guidelines

IN TH IS ISSUE

PresidentMary EllEn Griffin Ownerwww.myMEGusta.com320 Strawberry Hill Ave., #58Stamford, CT 06902(203) 975 7610 [email protected]

First Vice PresidentBEth allEnFounder/PresidentBeth Allen Associates, Inc.347 W 22nd Street, Suite #9New York, NY 10011(212) [email protected]

Second Vice PresidentlOri WilliSDirector of CommunicationsSchnuck Markets, Inc.11420 Lackland Rd.St. Louis, MO 63146(314) [email protected]

Third Vice PresidentCriCKEtt KarSOnOwnerLiefKarson Public Relations Ltd.23533 Merchantile Road, Suite 118Beachwood, OH 44122(216) [email protected] @LaDamefoodie

SecretaryaMy hOOpESEVP Global Sales/Chief Marketing OfficerWente Family Estates5565 Tesla RoadLivermore, CA 94550(209) [email protected]

Treasurerann StrattEOwnerMy Personal Chef100 Severn Avenue, #506Annapolis, MD 21403-2622(410) [email protected]

Here we are… at the end of another phenomenal year, reflecting upon our accomplishments and vision for the future. As autumn colors sweep the landscape and temperatures begin to fall, the vibrant city of Austin–site of our Annual Confer-ence–is heating up! Pull on your cowgirl boots and travel to the heart of Central Texas to connect with like-minded Dames and discover the latest in cutting edge industry news. The centerpiece of this dynamic issue is Elaine Corn's

splendid article honoring Dolores Cakebread, LDEI's new-est Grande Dame. The prestigious award honors a lifetime of outstanding professional achievement and charitable com-munity contributions within the culinary industry.In this issue, you'll read about the summer Board of Direc-

tor's meeting in Charleston and the new Legacy winners. The fall Quarterly showcases our valuable partners Sysco, Kikkom-an and Wente Vineyards, whose support we greatly appreciate.Dames are getting back to basics, teaching kids and teens how

to cook with seasonal, local, sustainable fare. Go to page 12 to begin reading about Dames who are mentoring and inspiring the next generation and educating them about the food-agri-culture connection. The 2013 focus on Food Day is "Let's Get Cooking," aimed at getting kids to cook–at home or in school. Food Day will be promoted on and around Oct 21-25th. Con-tact the Green Tables committee for more information. You'll hear from Quarterly Co-editor CiCi Williamson in

the 2014 Winter issue for an update on the formation of a new Birmingham Chapter. In September, CiCi and our 2011 Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree attended a Birmingham reception to successfully mentor 28 enthusiastic, prospective charter members. Special thanks to our wonderful design team, Bernie Mudd

White and Joni Keith; colleague CiCi Williamson; Department Editors Hayley Matson Mathes and Janet Burgess; Jane Men-genhauser; and the Dame-writers who bring these pages to life.I'll leave you with words of wisdom from our new Grande

Dame. Dolores commented, “I am overwhelmed with win-ning this honor. It made me stop and think about what good friends I’ve made in Les Dames and how important it is to know that there are women you can count on. I didn’t really get it until I went to the Annual Conference. I’ve met so many wonderful women. They’re intelligent, so willing to help. Dames epitomize everything I believe in."

Susan Slack, EditorFall Quarterly

The mission of the LDEI board is to foster the growth and success of the organization by supporting the development of new and existing chapters. It provides guidance, education, connectivity and effective communication among LDEI members.2013 LDEI BOARD OF DIRECTORS

2 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l2 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l

Chapter Board LiaisonsMaria GOMEzManager, Global AccountsHelmsBriscoe11241 Avenida del GataoSan Diego, CA 92126(858) [email protected] rEx-JOhnSOnFounder/OwnerNorthwest Wining and Dining, LLC98 Union Street, Suite 1009Seattle, WA 98101(206) [email protected] StaCy zEiGlEr, CMp, CpCEDirector of SalesBold American Events877 W. Marietta Street NWStudio K-102Atlanta, GA 30318-5285(678) [email protected]

Immediate Past PresidentMary S. MOOrEFounder/CEOThe Cook's Warehouse1075 Zonolite Road, NE, Suite 1-CAtlanta, GA 30306(404) 492-9018 [email protected] Twitter @Cookswarehouse

Executive DirectorGrEG JEWEllPresidentAEC Management ResourcesP.O. Box 4961Louisville, KY 40204(502) 456-1851 [email protected]

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Cover: Photo of Dolores Cakebread by Terry McCarthy.

Seattle Dame Kim Smith, chef/instructor at South Seattle Community College, teaches little Chef Ellie to prepare piecrust.

It’s almost time for us to gather in Austin for what promises to be an incredible educa-tional, networking, dining, and downright fun Annual Conference. And, even as this year’s event is launching into action, our Boston Dames are preparing for 2014, and Charleston is gearing up for 2015.One important milestone for LDEI was

reached quietly this year: the 40th anni-versary of the New York Chapter’s Charter from Les Amis d’Escoffier. Carol Brock took this occasion to gather as many Founding and Charter members as were available on a sunny May afternoon for a luncheon to discuss the past, the present and the future. You can read about this event elsewhere in the Quarterly. While I think we all agree that there’s a lot more work to be done to achieve our goals, great progress has been made over the years, par-ticularly through programs like Legacy and local scholarships, as well as areas which are relatively new, such as Green Tables and the Global Culinary Initiative. One important change for 2014 and

beyond is that the M.F.K. Fisher Award is being doubled in frequency to being an an-nual event. Our goal is to make this a very important, very visible honor sought after by the best journalists and publicized accord-ingly. There will be three award categories: Books, Print Media (magazines and newspa-pers) and Internet, with two $500 prizes and one $1000 Grand Prize, which will include a trip to Conference.As I prepare to pass the gavel to our next

President, I’d like to acknowledge and thank your extremely hardworking Board: Beth Al-len (1st VP), Lori Willis (2nd VP), Crickett Karson (3rd VP), Ann Stratte (Treasurer), Amy Hoopes (Secretary), Maria Gomez (CBL), Braiden Rex-Johnson (CBL), Stacy Zeigler (CBL), and Mary Moore (Past Presi-

dent). I believe we accomplished a lot this year, and it was because everyone stepped up to take on projects, on which they then over delivered. It’s important, as well, to thank our Executive Director, Greg Jewell, and his AEC staff, who do such a great job of keeping the LDEI infrastructure humming along seamlessly in support of the Board and the Committees. And, of course, I thank our Director of Partnerships, Brent Frei, as well as all of our wonderful Partners.See y’all soon in Austin!

Mary Ellen GriffinPresident, Les Dames d’Escoffier International

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4 L e s D a m e s d ’ E s c o f f i e r I n t e r n a t i o n a l

GRANDE DAME

Dolores during the harvest crush at Cakebread vineyard. Dolores is in her vegetable patch. Dolores and Jack with sons Bruce and Dennis.

Dolores Cakebread

By Elaine Corn (San Francisco)

“Eat less, but eat better.” Dolores Cakebread

F A L L Q u A r T E r L Y 2 0 1 3 5

Dolores took cooking lessons all over the world as the Napa Valley began to discover wine’s compatibility with food. Once her boys were grown, she was able to educate herself with more rigorous culinary instruction at Le Cordon rouge in San rafael, CA. A solid foundation in-tact, she gave herself permission to drift from butter and cream long before the Mediterranean diet became vogue. To this day, Dolores insists on a light touch in cooking.

Demand created a new necessity: the olive oil she uses is likely from olives off trees not far from the Cakebread residence. She coined the winery’s motto: “Eat less, but eat better.” She also has a light touch in her own self-regard. Her self-imposed title as Cakebread’s “Director of Ambi-ance” is a gig that makes the hard work of running one of the most active food programs in Napa Valley seems easy.The decades reflect what the winery had to become to

meet Dolores’s needs to affect what amounts to food-and-wine social change. Today, the winery is a small village with dining facilities, five kitchens, guest quarters, immense winery production and vast vineyards. Like Dolores’s openness in real life, the Cakebread entry is an easy-to-spot driveway on the main Napa highway, not up one of those long, winding secret roads to some exclusive boutique chateau. Dolores shares the winery production areas, various dining rooms, the grounds, The Pond House and its patio and dining room, her bus-tling gardens (which she still calls her vegetable patch) and her private residence with those of us lucky enough to be in the LDEI San Francisco Chapter. She makes it all available any time we ask. When she isn’t asked, it’s volunteered. “Just come up to the winery,” Dolores will say. “We’ll do the event there.” Dolores was a founding member of the San Francisco

Chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier International in 1989. By 2003, she was chapter president. Meanwhile, she co-chaired the Napa Valley Wine Auction, raising $8.6 million for the health care of needy adults. She regularly donates to the Napa Food Bank and, as her resume says, contributes to Les Dames d’Escoffier fundraisers “forever.” When chapter events are in San Francisco, Berkeley,

south of San Francisco or taking place well east into Cali-fornia’s fertile Central Valley, Dolores hires a car. Members from the Napa Valley or Sonoma areas meet at the winery and pile into the car. If she has more than four coming with her, she hires a limo and drives everyone to the event for free. What goes on in that car only the passengers know. For Dolores, it’s a treat to have the company. “It’s really fun for me as I get older to visit all the way down and all the way back. We share stories about what we’ve been doing, what we’re growing in our gardens.”And the San Francisco chapter isn’t the only group to

visit. Dolores has hosted wine giants, writers, cooks, kids and visitors from all over the world. But you don’t have to be a VIP to get inside Cakebread Cellars. Dolores’s programs offer public cooking classes, an annual open house and gardening classes.

Dolores Cakebread– Food & Wine Visionary and “director of ambience”

Dolores moved to Oakland, Cali-fornia from Sheboygan, Wisconsin. Sixty-three years ago she married high school sweetheart Jack Cakebread. That made her part of the original Cakebread family business, an auto repair shop in Oakland called Cake-bread’s Garage. Their sturdy marriage is based on

love and professional respect. She says they were a modern team for 1950. Their partnership is based on mutual support, equal respect, and for Dolores, a supportive husband who beamed as she grew the family’s ideals of strength, dignity, leadership and sharing. Dolores says it works like this. “Jack gets all the ideas and I execute them.” Dolores often says that she and Jack

came from nothing. The one thing the Cakebread family had besides a repair shop was a ranch north of Oakland in the Napa Valley town of rutherford. The winery started with 22 acres they bought for $800 an acre, compared to today’s prices that can top out at $360,000 an acre. They continued to

run the garage in Oakland to pay for the vineyard.

The Cakebreads’ land was a benign stretch

of what now is called rutherford dust, even though it had California’s typical almond, walnut and peach trees– until Dolores arrived around 1972 during a minor recession. She immediately planted a garden, a mere 2½ acres.“Do you know

how many vegetables you can grow on 2½

acres?” she asks, still amazed at what she’d tack-

led long before she became a Certified Master Gardener through the university of California, Davis.

“I’d can everything. My 90-year-old father helped me wash, prep and peel the seven lug boxes we would take home each weekend. I built a big pan-try lined with canned beans and peas and brandied cherries.” But that was the Wisconsin habit. “After the first year-and-a-half, we realized you don’t have to can. We’d freeze ripe tomatoes and apples for applesauce. “Here, you can have a garden all year round. The rest is fresh.” And it still is. The Cake-breads and staff enjoy garden-fresh food every day.At the time of Cakebread’s begin-

nings, the Napa wine business was in bad shape. The Cakebreads would go to the fields at night to plant grapes. As the vineyard flourished, one thing Jack and Dolores could not abide was weeds. ”Jack and I would drive up after work to pull the weeds growing in our newly planted vineyard,” she remembers. “The locals learned we were out hoeing weeds. They could not believe we were doing that. But we were city dwellers and didn’t like weeds.”

ABOuT THAT NAME – CAKEBrEAD Not a day goes by when the family isn’t asked about where the name

comes from. The family’s ancestors were bakers in England, noted for a dense round loaf of bread called cakebrede.

Dolores Cakebread, 83, didn’t start out in life with any expectation of becoming a visionary for wine, local ingredients, gar-dening, healthy cooking and youth outreach, or an inter-national pioneer promoter of how America ought to show off its food, wine and agriculture products. The story begins slowly with family, raising children and building a business. But six decades is a long time. Anything can happen.

continued on next page


ADVICE FOr NEW DAMES – “In thinking about what this honor means to me, I’ve learned that it’s important for everyone to be responsible. The world is not responsible for me. You have to be responsible to yourself and trustworthy, honest, caring and loving.

Then you’ll feel good about yourself ….only good people will surround you in whatever you do.”

The rutherford dust is part of the Cake-bread terroir that shows favorably in the wines’ flavor profiles, a most American sensory twist. With the creation of the American Harvest Workshop, a Cakebread exclusive, it’s possible that Dolores shines the biggest spotlight on what we now know as farm-to-fork. She remembers that in the 1970s, Jack had been at a wine event in Dallas. All the food was French. “Jack said ‘why do we allow this to hap-pen?’” Both Jack and Dolores agreed “that if the ideal is French wine when you are in France, and Italian wine when you are in Italy, then American wine is best paired with food grown in the same soil shared by the vines,” she says. That may sound precious, but Dolores made

it fun. The American Harvest Workshop began in 1986. It’s a four-day nonprofit affair to increase the appreciation of the nutritional and aesthetic qualities of American cottage farm producers, wine, viticulture and cuisine. Since it began, more than 300 chefs have come from around the world. Over the years, Dolores invited such legends as chefs Dean Fearing, then of the Mansion on Turtle Creek, Dallas; Mark Miller, Coyote Café, Santa Fe; robert del Grande, then of Café Annie, Houston; Alan Wong from Honolulu; Bradley Ogden, then of Campton Place, San Francisco, and Gary Danko, then of the ritz-Carlton, San Francisco. As women began to populate more professional kitchens, the Workshop

brought in Dame Nancy Oakes, Boule-vard, San Francisco; Emily Moore, Sweet-lips, San Diego; Amy Ferguson, then of rosewood Hana Maui, HI; Jeannie Pierola, Bern’s Steak House, Tampa, and Joanne Bondy, then of Wright’s at the Arizona Biltmore, Phoenix.The purveyors invited became new stars.

“Gourmet Mushrooms was still in a rickety shed,” Dolores remembers. “Laurel Chenel (a future San Francisco Dame) was making cheese in a bathtub. Nobody knew about these people. This was long before anyone gave a thought to their purveyors.”The American Harvest Workshop is

memorialized in a beautiful cookbook, “The Cakebread Cellars American Harvest Cookbook: Celebrating Wine, Food, and Friends in the Napa Valley.” It followed the first book from Cakebread, “The Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Cookbook.” The books are available at Amazon.com. It’s worth noting that Dolores’s staff

includes Culinary Director and Chef Brian Streeter, employed 24 years. Another sign that Dolores conducts her business with dignity is that Cakebread’s employee rolls have one of the lowest turnover rates in the wine industry. Servers, staff, cellar master and winemaker all have been at Cakebread 20 years or longer. “We have people we really like. We treat them fairly. We treat them honestly. We only have wonderful people work for us. If they’re nitpicky or dishonest, they don’t even get on board.”

The American Harvest Workshop– From Farm-to-Fork

Dolores and Jack, with some workers, put the first nails in the wood that became Cakebread Cellars. At the end of the first day, she made a big meal at her house in Oakland, drove north to the winery and finished off the prep with a big barbecue to celebrate the progress. Mon-davi wine was served! Eventually, Dolores was cooking camp style outside for 100 workers at a time. Soon, she was able to pour her own Cakebread wines to celebrate milestones as the winery grew. Cakebread Cellars started with 157 cases of

Chardonnay – that’s less than 1,900 bottles. But you can almost feel Dolores jump off the label of one of Cakebread’s early proprietary red wines. It was called rubiyat, inspired by Omar Kayyam’s poem about the enjoyment of food and wine, that it helps brighten people’s lives.That is Dolores Cakebread. She spreads it

around. A few years ago, Dolores survived brain surgery to smooth out tremors. Dolores was put back into great shape, although she says she’s a bit bionic. The mechanism for the tremors is on her left side and there’s a pacemaker on her right side. A grateful patient, Dolores did not forget the hospitals and surgeons. She created the Dolores Cakebread Chair for Dr. Starr, Neurological Service research for Essential Tremors & Parkinson Disease at the university of California, San Francisco.Dolores’s generosity comes naturally. She was

once asked if her substantial vegetable patch, visible to any and all visitors, was lighter at the end of some days when guests, perhaps—and even those uninvited—had helped themselves to the garden’s green beans, squash, favas–even strawberries over the years. And this was her answer: “People can take the vegetables to taste. We hope they will enjoy them.”

continued from page 5


F A L L Q u A r T E r L Y 2 0 1 3 7

DOLOrES’S ETErNAL OPTIMISM “Thank God every day for giving me this wonderful life. I believe positively there’s always some good about whatever’s wrong that day, and it will get better. Whatever happens, stay happy.

Even if you have bad things happen, each experience will help you grow into a better person. It always comes out OK.”

Delores roasts a whole pig. Dolores and Gary Danko at the American Harvest Workshop. Dolores walks hand-in-hand with Jack, her life partner. Photos from Dolores Cakebread. Opposite page: Cakebread Cellars winery. Photo by Terry McCarthy


By Lori Willis (St. Louis) Charleston, South Carolina, brings to mind

juicy peaches the size of bowling balls; puffy cloud-like pillows of homemade grits; wisteria “jewelry” dangling from branches and ghosts guarding homes along cobbled streets. Exagger-ations perhaps, or maybe just a bit of romanti-cism? In either case, there’s no overstating the hospitality and old world charm of the city of Charleston–home of Les Dames d' Escoffier's 2015 Annual Conference. Anticipation is building as this particular

conference will have a very different feel thanks to the timeless appeal of Charleston's historic past and its genteel present. Far removed from the big cities of recent years, Charleston prom-ises a unique conference experience.Prior to the start of the LDEI Board Meeting

July 19 - 21, President Mary Ellen Griffin (NY), Greg Jewell of AEC Management, and Maria Gomez (San Diego), Chapter Board Liasion (CBL) and a Helms Briscoe representa-tive, guided a small team through site visits of three previously vetted Charleston hotels. Al-though no decisions have been made, the Board and the Charleston Chapter are getting closer to working out the details. According to Mary Ellen, planning two

years out on Conference is a new Board practice and key to creating the best confer-ence experience. "The Annual Conference is LDEI's most significant educational, gastro-nomic and networking event of the year, and it's important that we approach the planning accordingly," said Mary Ellen. "Your Board is committed to making good business decisions as we work closely with the chapter to develop a valuable professional development vehicle for our members." She added, "Our goal is to continue to increase

attendance at the Annual Conference, and that is where advance planning comes in. Members now have more time to plan and recruit partners and the Austin Chapter, as an example, has had more time to put together what promises to be an extraordinary opportunity."

Following the site visits, the Board spent a solid day-and-a-half reviewing financial information, current issues, policies, and practices. "We continue to concentrate on Chapter/Board engagement and in setting conditions for future growth and development of our organization,” said Mary Ellen. "Work-ing together, we can more effectively promote our brand and maximize our positive impact on food communities across the globe."Some of the highlights of the Board meet-

ing include debuting new marketing and branding elements. First VP Beth Allen (NY) introduced our new partner brochure insert,

designed to allow the chapters to easily create their own companion piece to the partner brochure, including information specific to their chap-ters. You will learn more about this

resource through www.ldei.org/Via telephone, the Board received an update

from Development Director Brent Frei, who brought the team up to speed on partner prog-ress for the Austin conference and renewed the Board’s commitment to making participation as smooth and mutually beneficial as possible for our partners. In addition, the Board approved M.F.K.

Fisher Chair CiCi Williamson's (Washing-ton, DC) refinements to the already popular award. Changes are being outlined to help broaden the scope of the award’s appeal while enabling LDEI to use it as a brand-building effort. You will hear more about this in upcoming is-sues of Quarterly. The Board also discussed

LDEI’s value proposition to members and agreed to create an Annual report that will detail the benefits of membership and what comes along with the $75 dues paid to LDEI annu-ally. The report will be offered

in January 2014. In a related note, our new affinity program, developed by Kathleen Perry (Atlanta), continues to grow and add value to membership. Look online for items you can now buy at a negotiated discount! Finally, the Board brainstormed ways the or-

ganization could provide more quality profes-sional development as well as special, personal and career building experiences. “You will hear more about that at the Austin Conference so, please come armed with ideas on how we might expand opportunities to our members,” said Mary Ellen. The July Board meeting is the last one before

the new board transitions in October and, instead of winding down, Mary Ellen and the 2013 Board are still gaining momentum as evi-denced by the lively discussion and project lists that continue to move forward. She observed, “We have been able to accomplish quite a bit this year thanks to strong and dedicated board members willing to share their talents and re-sources to help make our organization stronger.” She said, “Thanks, also to a strong partner in

Greg Jewell and AEC Management and, last but certainly not least, I believe the engagement of our Dames, including those who are working to make a difference through the Brock Circle, added to our power as a Board. Yes, this Board is finishing up our year, but as we prepare to

transition, I feel that in many ways, we are just getting started.”

Secretary Amy Hoopes. Photo by Lori Willis . Your LDEI board hard at work.

Photo by Braiden Rex-Johnson. (L-R) Following a special dinner at the Embassy Suites Hotel, Treasurer Ann Stratte, Past President Mary S. Moore, First Vice President Beth Allen and other board members tour the kitchens with Chuck

Lauer, AGM/Food and Bever-age Director. Photo by Braiden

Rex-Johnson. Charleston President Danielle Wecksler chats with Mary

Ellen Griffin during a board dinner. Photo by Lori Willis. The jeweled silver circle pin

is a limited edition insignia, which may be worn only by members of the Brock Circle.

Photo by Lori Willis.

Summer Board Meeting Held in Charleston - Home of the 2015 LDEI Annual Conference

F A L L Q u A r T E r L Y 2 0 1 3 9

The LDEI Board and Greg Jewell would like to thank Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree and the Charleston Chapter for their gracious southern hospitality and for taking the term, “potluck” to a whole other level! It started with our host’s homemade grits (Nathalie was teaching two students how to fold in baby greens when we arrived) and on it went… We dined on Jennifer Goldman’s savory pork tenderloin; Danielle Wecksler’s and Deidre Schipani’s glorious salads; Celeste Albers’ Charleston red rice; and Peg Moore’s chicken liver paté. Carrie Morey of Callie’s Charleston Biscuits shared her iconic Cheddar chive biscuits and Susan Slack brought a hybrid lemon chiffon cake that melted in your mouth. Susan Wigley brought shrimp boil and Lauren Mit-terer brought fresh Southern tomato pies. There were platters of fried okra, roasted onion tarts and cheese straws… The menu went on and on… as each Dame added her special dish to the table! It was an incredible evening of sharing and sisterhood. We know it was a true team effort and, on behalf of the entire Board, we thank you!

The Board aTTends a LowcounTry PoTLuck aT naThaLie duPree’s home

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Jennifer Goldman’s savory pork tenderloin with roasted vegetables. (L-R) Charleston Dame Lauren Mitterer, Board Secretary Amy Hoopes, LDEI Past President Mary S. Moore and Charleston VP Jennifer Goldman. Charleston Dames Anne Marie and Susan Wigley. Devaney Vickery-Davidson brought ricotta-stuffed, bacon wrapped pears -a showstopper! CBL Braiden Rex-Johnson with (R) Charleston Dame Debbie Marlowe. (L-R) CBL Stacy Zeigler, CBL Maria Gomez, President Mary Ellen Griffin and Second Vice President Lori Willis. Charleston Dames Celeste Albers (L) and Cecelia Cerasoli (R) with Mary Ellen Griffin (center). The LDEI Board and Charleston Dames gather for potluck at Nathalie Dupree's home. Photo: Devaney Vickery-Davidson. Mary Moore passes Callie's Charles-ton Biscuits in a beautiful Gullah sweetgrass basket. Executive Director Greg Jewell. Photos by Susan Slack

Nathalie offers fresh figs stuffed with shaved country ham. Danielle Wecksler’s fingerling potato salad with green beans and fresh dill. Photos by Susan Slack.

F A L L Q u A r T E r L Y 2 0 1 3 9


CULINARY CATEGORY:Lana Bernstein, a caterer from Columbus, Ohio, contributed to a children’s

cookbook to benefit the ACF Chef and Child Program. She expanded her expertise working with large-and small-scale operations run by seven award-winning Dame caterers in Atlanta.Ryann Sharpe from rex, Georgia, an execution supervisor for Bold American

Events and culinary instructor for cancer patients and survivors–traveled to the Pacific Northwest to work under the tutelage of Lisa Dupar at her catering company in redmond, Washington.WINE CATEGORY:Gloria Chang, a Vancouver-based former journalist and broadcaster, is now

an educator specializing in wine and culinary arts. Rachel Tracy is a Chicago food and wine marketer who collaborated with Veronica Hastings (Chicago) in developing a professional wine symposium. Both winners spent a week at Wente Vineyards in Livermore, California, during the 2013 harvest working with CEO Carolyn Wente, and Amy Hoopes, executive vice president–global sales. They learned how to produce and market top-quality wines at America’s oldest, continuously operated family-owned winery.FARM-TO-TABLE ENTREPRENEURSHIP CATEGORY:Kim Youkstetter, CIA graduate and culinary instructor from Shrewsbury, Mas-

sachusetts, observed in action, from the ground up, the two highly successful family-owned farms of Paulette Satur at Satur Farms (a leading supplier of spe-cialty vegetables and salad greens), and Ursula Massoud at her award-winning Paumanok Vineyards, Long Island, New York.The winners will attend the Legacy Awards Luncheon on Saturday, October

26, during LDEI’s Austin Conference. Special thanks to Co-chairs Marsha Palanci and Toria Emas who ably led the Legacy committee through the awards process to select the five entrepreneur winners. The committee includes: Abigail Kirsch, Allison Awerbuch, Barb Ostman, Holly Hadsell-El-Hajji, Stacy Zeigler, Sue Huffman-Robison, Susan Weinstein, Suzanne DeGalan, Suzi O’Rouke and Trish Gelles. Through their personal essays in the spring Quarterly, you’ll learn more about

the winners and their week-long externships.

Les Dames d’Escoffier International, supported by the Julia Child Foundation for Gastronomy and the Culinary Arts, announce the 2013 Legacy Awards winners. Five professional women were chosen as this year’s Legacy Awards recipients and mentored by some of America’s leading female talent in food, beverage and hospitality–all distinguished members of LDEI. The winners, all from the u.S. and Canada, have a minimum of four years of work experience and will participate in a high-energy, labor-intensive and career-expanding week learning how to take their respective careers up to the next level.

“Julia Child was honored by our organization as a Grande Dame, our highest award for excellence. She was a mentor to many women in the culinary

world and had great affection for Les Dames. Our collaboration to bring young talent to the forefront is what both of our organizations is all about.”

Mary Ellen Griffin, LDEI President

“The Legacy winners have enriched our conference experience and created membership loyalties to LDEI.”

Co-chairs Marsha Palanci and Toria Emas.

F A L L Q u A r T E r L Y 2 0 1 3 11

Another Step Forward

Randall Tarpey-Schwed created a table setting based on M.F.K. Fisher’s story, The Perfect Dinner Party, Follow the marker to M.F.K. Fisher’s “Last House.” M.F.K. Fisher sat here! Photos by Mark Tarpey-Schwed

By Jerry Anne Di Vecchio (San Francisco)The patiently, unrelentingly sought goal of

the San Francisco Les Dames d'Escoffier to preserve Mary Francis Kennedy Fisher's Last House and her literary presence as a historical site, moved another huge step forward on June 2, 2013, with the third annual M.F.K. Fisher Art of Eating celebra-tion. This year, the per guest contribution was greater than ever.Conversations about M.F.K. and her

house were initiated by SF Dames in 2001, after Audubon Canyon ranch (ACr) was granted Bouverie ranch for a nature pre-serve from architect David Bouverie. Here, Bouverie designed and built Last House where M.F.K. Fisher lived and wrote the last 20 years of her life. restrictions for land use in Bouverie's

will impact how Last House can be handled. With SF Dames encouragement and three years of successful fund raising events using M.F.K. Fisher as the draw, ACr is studying ways to do more with her legacy and Last House. (A prominent comparable example in Sonoma's Valley of the Moon is writer Jack London's home in Jack London State Historic Park, liter-ally a stone's throw across the highway from Bouverie ranch.)J. Scott Feierabend, Executive Director

Audubon Canyon ranch, shares, "San Francisco Les Dames d’Escoffier’s support and deep involvement in the third M.F.K. Fisher Art of Eating event, held this past June 2, was once again instrumental to the success of this important annual fund-raiser for ACr. The Dames’ underwrit-ing of the Art of Eating, combined with generous donations they provided, helps offset the costs of producing the event so that a greater share of the proceeds go to the support of ACr’s nature-education programs. Audubon Canyon ranch is honored to recognize Mary Frances and her contributions to “the art of eating” and gastronomy, and looks forward to continuing this highly valued and very much appreciated, collaborative partner-ship. As we move into the future, ACr also

remains committed to ensuring that Mary Frances’ Last House and its incred-ible significance to the community is preserved and protected for all to revel in and to enjoy."For the first time (with Dames signifi-

cant urging), the event had an exhibit of

M.F.K. Fisher's work including first edi-tion books, periodicals, photos, and other memorabilia curated by collector randall Tarpey-Schwed. Part of the exhibit was assembled in David Bouverie's sitting room, steps away from Last House (at present occupied by ACr's Bouverie Pre-serve caretaker). And on the veranda just outside by the pool, where Mary Frances ate many a meal, randall created a table setting based on her story, The Perfect Din-ner Party, with a locavore menu.SF Dames were prominently present on

the M.F.K. event program as co-sponsors and on the Honorary Committee–as well as mingling as guests or working as volunteers. LDEI's logo was in the event program

with each Dame activity or donation. Dame Patricia Unterman was mistress

of ceremonies for the second year in a row. Scott Feierabend, as master of ceremonies, praised SF Dames support and stellar contributions lavishly to the assembly.Dame wines were poured and auc-

tioned: Carolyn Wente's Wente Family Vineyards (with Amy Hoopes), Mary Constant's Diamond Mountain Vine-yards, Julie Johnson's Tres Sabores, Debbie Zachareas' Ferry Building Wine Merchant donations.High ticket auction items included private

dinners cooked and served in the Bouv-erie house by Dames Tanya Holland and Nancy Oakes, and Dolores Cakebread's cooking class for 12 at Cakebread Cellars. Coveted dinner certificates came from

Dame chefs/restaurateurs Cindy Pawlcyn, Gayle Pirie, Pam Mazzola, Marsha Mc-Bride, Patty Unterman, Jesse Cool.Providing for the event sit-down, tent-

shaded luncheon menu: Sue Conley and Peggy Smith's Cowgirl Cheeses. Janet Grigg's Tout Sweet Macaroons, biscotti, and local olive oils from several Dames.Additional support in items or time came

from Margaret Fox, Alice Medrich, rick O'Connell, Paige Poulos, Helen Roberts, Renee Shepherd, Marie Simmons, Alice Waters, Judy Rogers, Eleanor Bertino, Deborah Rogers, Patricia Darragh, Fran Gage, Kimberly Charles, Jacquelyn Bu-chanan, Cheryl Forberg, Frankie Whit-man, Kathleen Hill, Jerry Di Vecchio, Deborah Rogers–and probably more.


The making of a Dame

t the tender age of nine years old, Eleanor (Ellie)Cenname is well

on her way to becoming a chef–and

future Dame! She started cooking at age five under her grandfather’s watchful eye by pre-paring a “superb” peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwich. Next came egg salad, dried-cranberry granola, and creamy soup made from tomatoes plucked from “Papa’s” garden. Once Ellie’s adopted grandpar-

ent, Beverly Gruber, executive director of Les Dames, Seattle Chapter, found out about Ellie’s desire to become a chef, things really got cooking! Beverly shared recipes with Ellie

from her children’s cooking classes and empowered her with a kid-

sized chef ’s coat embroidered with the words, Chef Ellie. Perhaps more importantly, Beverly calculated which Seattle Dames young Ellie should meet in order to further her dreams of becoming a chef. First up was Leslie Mackie,

founder/co-owner of Macrina Bakery & Café. Meeting with this successful businesswoman, chef, and cookbook author helped Ellie understand the differences be-tween wholesale and retail bakery and restaurant operations. Ellie’s favorite cookbook is

Thomas Keller’s Bouchon, and she hopes to one day run her own French-inspired restaurant called rosemary. So when her ninth birthday rolled around, Beverly suggested she meet up with Lisa Nakamura. Lisa was the first woman sous

chef at The French Laundry and one of the Seattle Chapter’s first scholarship recipients. As the for-mer chef/owner of Allium restau-rant and Lily on Orcas (80 miles and a ferry ride from Seattle), Lisa was the perfect role model for any aspiring female food profession-al—an experienced working chef in an independent business.Finally, the young chef met

with Certified Executive Pastry Chef Kim Smith, winner of an “Outstanding Faculty Award” at South Seattle Community College (SSCC), where she teaches pastry and baking arts.“The day Ellie spent at SSCC was

certainly one of the most memo-rable in her lifetime,” says Ellie’s mother, Ann Brockenbrough. “Chef Kim Smith. . .immediately drew Ellie in, and within minutes, had her rolling out a pie crust and assembling a lattice top as if she’d been doing it for years.” But that wasn't all! When

SSCC’s pastry department was

invited to prepare cupcakes for Seattle Mayor Mike McGinn’s annual citywide open house, Kim invited Ellie and her own two sons to help out. “Ellie was a great help, assisting

the guests in decorating their pa-per chefs’ hats and their cupcakes,” Kim recalls. “She even got to hand-deliver some cupcakes to the mayor and to several city council members in their chambers!” So far, Ellie remains obsessed (in

a good way) with becoming a chef. You’ll find her journaling menus every day, cooking something dif-ferent almost every night with her dad, baking with her mother, and blogging about her cooking and restaurant experiences at www. kidfoodie.com.“What sparked my interest in

cooking, is cooking with the people I love, because it’s fun and the food we make is delicious,” El-lie says. She’s a little chef with big lessons for us all.

1 Ellie prepares a piecrust at SSCC.. 2 Young Ellie learns to make granola with the help of her grandfather, “Papa.” 3-5 Leslie Mackie gives Ellie a tour through Macrina’s baking facility. After the tour, Ellie enjoys jam-filled buns. 6 Ellie and a fellow student admire the fresh-from-the-oven mini-pie she prepared at SSCC. 7 Ellie celebrated her ninth birthday at Lisa Nakamura’s Allium Restaurant. 8 Ellie’s small hands crimp pie dough during class at SSCC. 9 Ellie (left), future chefs, and SSCC students meet Seattle Mayor Mike McGinn (far left) during the mayor’s open house. 10 Kim Smith, chef/instructor at SSCC, teaches Ellie how to prepare piecrust.

cooking with kids

Seattle Dames help a little chef with big dreams

By Braiden rex-Johnson (Seattle) LDEI Chapter Board Liaison

Part of Les Dames, Seattle Chapter’s mission is to mentor and encourage young women in the fields of culinary, beverage, and hospitality. Here’s how the Chapter has taken one budding young chef under their collective wing.

The “future Chef Ellie” hat decorated by the budding young chef during her visit to the mayor’s open house.

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F A L L Q u A r T E r L Y 2 0 1 3 13

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By Lynn Fredericks (New York)

y kids are in their 20s now, so summer looks different than when they were little

or awkward teens. Yet, I still spend my

summer with lots of teenagers from across NYC who are part of our Teen Battle Chef (TBC) program. While most people consider teen-aged youth prone to trouble, lazy, irresponsible etc., I have seen first hand that there are critical junc-tures each youth faces. Similarly to the early childhood years, the quality of their environmental stimulation, parental and adult inputs and the deftness with which their invariable mistakes are dealt with form a tipping point where a young person will succeed to take a path towards a positive future or out of fear or lack of hope, turn to darker forces for excitement and a semblance of power.So every summer, the non-profit

I founded, FamilyCook Produc-tions, offers an opportunity for a couple dozen inner city teenag-ers to have a part-time paid job teaching others to cook healthy meals. Graduates of our Teen Battle Chef program at their high school, these students have learned to cook and were nominated for our Summer Leadership Brigade

by their TBC instructors.I developed Teen Battle Chef

10 years ago to inspire teenagers to find their path to a healthier lifestyle. We license the curricu-lum to schools and community organizations and train their staff to teach this unique cur-riculum. Hence the program has grown to over 100 schools in 20 states. Through our innovative formula employing time limits and weekly competitions, teens develop a preference to prepare their own snacks and meals us-ing fresh ingredients. Quite unexpectedly, we discov-

ered that the empowerment of mastering the ability to cook deli-cious meals from scratch resulted in something amazing: they measur-ably influenced their families and friends to eat healthier too! Now we take the program to the next level, providing opportunities for internships during the school year and summer job opportunities to teach others in their community how to cook healthy meals as well.We are strategic about the types

of jobs we connect them to: teach-ing younger children to cook in preschools or summer camps; con-ducting cooking demos in farmers markets, among other roles. Each Tuesday, the whole group meets at a central location for a mentoring session or field trip, one of which

will be an organic farm to explore concept of sustainability.As we grow the program further

with the opportunity for entre-preneurship through partnership with Brooklyn Salsa, Chipotle, HealthCorps, among others, it is clear that more opportunities for empowerment around food is just what the doctor ordered. Our TBC Alumni are going on to col-lage in culinary arts and health re-lated fields. Their experience with TBC is a real lifestyle changer, for the better. And that desire to ‘pay it forward’ and teach others is firmly established. Our 3 mentors for our Summer Brigade in NYC this year are all TBC students who are now high school graduates pursuing a career in food.

After watching how adults and children alike respond to Teen Battle Chefs extoling the virtues of cooking yourself, eating a variety of vegetables and sup-porting local farmers it’s become crystal clear that our youth can play a central role in moving the needle on this obesity epidemic. They can become an example and symbol of hope and provide inspiration to young and old, as well as each other.

Teen Battle Chef crew in Canton, CT demonstrates seasonal fare at the local farmers’ market.

"Stirring up change" through the Teen Battle Chef program.

Teen Battle Chef team at Kensington Brooklyn Youthmarket in a food desert. Photos by Lynn Fredericks

cooking with kids

Teen Battle Chef -Roadmap to a healthier lifestyle

By Susan Slack (Charleston)

…yucky! Toddlers and preschoolers are notori-ous for letting everyone know their food dislikes in a variety of expressive

ways. Whether it’s a small wrinkled nose or a temper

tantrum, this kind of food review is sure to leave no parent or grandpar-ent happy. Imagine then, the sound

of Nancy Tringali Piho’s young son William squealing with delight after his first taste of octopus in an exotic appetizer. Nancy’s explora-tion with food flavors exposed both of her sons, in their toddler years, to a wholesome, varied diet well beyond the usual toddler-friendly foods. She questioned why there were so many picky eaters and why parents were afraid to expose them to new foods and dining experienc-es. For answers, Nancy conducted

an in-depth study, interviewing a host of experts that included scientific researchers, psychologists and medical doctors. Her diligent research resulted in the acclaimed book, My Two Year Old Eats Octo-pus: Raising Children Who Love to Eat Everything. With a large dash of humor and style, the 310-page compendium offers practical advice to guide kids into well-rounded eaters with a life-long appreciation of food. Nancy believes the early

Expanding a Child's Picky Palate

F A L L Q u A r T E r L Y 2 0 1 3 15

By Deirdre S. Michalski (LA/OC)

arie-Annick Courtier (LA/OC), owner of Chef Marie Academy, has made it her mission to promote

a healthy lifestyle, particu-larly healthy eating. In 2011,

when approached by Jackie Teichmann, Executive Director of “Kid Healthy,” to help start the Healthy Schools Campaign & Contest, “Cooking up Change, ” Ma-rie immediately accepted. She recognized that the unique competition challenges students to create healthy school meals on a tight budget and meet restrictive nutrition standards, while encouraging the pleasures of the table with tasty, ap-pealing, and unique dishes. The contest was to be held in Anaheim

at Northgate Market with teams from Valley High School, in the Orange County, California School District. As a volunteer, Marie became a judging

committee co-chair along with Chef Vince Kikugawa, President of Food Dude Inc. She started teaching Valley High culinary students basic nutrition and how to design menus and create healthy recipes utilizing her healthy cooking techniques. Students became excited about the competition and serious about

bringing fresh healthy food alternatives to the cafeteria. Kid Healthy administration and mentors helped, preparing a dozen teams to enter the competition. Judged by local authorities, celebrities

and chefs, team Alex Hernandez, Ashley Blanco and Ivan Lopez won the OC Competition and later, the national title in Washington DC with their healthy meal of: Lemon and Spinach Chicken Dish, Tuscan Bean Salad and Cinnamon Poached Pears. The winners said “Cook-ing up Change” had a huge impact on changing their behaviors towards food. They have become passionate about their own health, even educating family and friends on healthy eating. They learned to read food labels, and make healthier choices for meals at home. In 2013, Marie returned as chair of the judging committee and assisted in recruiting pro-fessional chefs. Additional high schools joined the 2013 competition and for the second year in a row, a winning Valley High School culinary team went on to win the national competition in Washing-ton DC, with the main dish, “Pita Packs a Punch.”Chef Marie is the author of numerous

healthy cookbooks under the “Cooking Well” series published by Hatherleigh Press. For more information, visit Marie’s website at www.chefmarie.com

Dames Who Make A DifferenceMany Dames are involved with helping children and teens

develop life-long healthy attitudes toward food, cooking and nutrition. Marie-Annick Courtier, Janet Burgess and Nancy Tringali Piho

are three such Dames; read about them below.

Cooking up ChangeBy Janet Burgess (San Diego & LA/OC)

hildren like to cook and they like to eat even more. A successful cooking adven-ture takes some planning. Children can get bored easily and sometimes, it’s a challenge to keep them engaged.

Keep the main focus of the class on having fun. Children have fun learning to

read through the recipe, measuring, scooping, and mixing to make healthy snacks and meals. Math, science and food history can be incorporated into lessons. I love to tell food history stories about foods such as Queen Margherita pizza and fortune cookies. Lessons on eating well will carry children through a lifetime of making smart choices about food and nutrition. Children, parents and educa-tors alike should visit www.choosemyplate.gov for a great example of a balanced meal.

Here are some tips to get children involved with cooking:• Talk about Super Foods; beans, blueberries, broccoli, oats,

oranges, pumpkin, wild salmon, soy, spinach, tea, tomatoes, turkey, walnuts, yogurt and what they are and how to incorporate them in cooking.

• Before cooking, kids should wash hands with soap and water. Sing happy birthday for several verses to make sure hands are clean. Remind them if they touch their hair, face or floor to wash again.

• Wear an apron to keep clothes clean. Don’t wear shirts with long, loose sleeves. Pull back long hair into a ponytail. Wear close-toed shoes.

• Always use hot mitts to handle hot items from the stove, oven or microwave.

• When cooking at the stove, turn handles of the pans and skillets toward the middle or back of the stove in case they get bumped.

• Know where your first aid kit and fire extinguisher is located and how to use it.

• Always pick up a knife or kitchen scissors by the handle. Leave sharp items on the counter until you are ready to wash them. Don’t put them in soapy water; wash one at a time.

• Talk about obesity in the United States and the problems now and in the future for overweight children.

• Stress the importance of exercise everyday. Editor’s Note: Janet has accumulated a “baker’s dozen” years of practical experience in teaching kids to cook. She is the author of CHOP, COOK, MUNCH, a cookbook for young chefs between the ages of 5-13. Additional tips are listed on Janet’s website: www.4littleCOOKS.com

Lets get Cooking!

years are when children’s eating habits are formed for life. She advises, “The concept of flavor is key and can be taught…keep away from children’s food products and teach them to eat well and enjoy the taste and texture of real–not over-processed–foods. Teach kids to respect food and the process by which we have it in such abundance.” She warns, “Expanding a child’s palate will take some work –it’s often two steps forward and one step back…if you hang in long enough, kids will be willing to try almost anything.”

Nancy says it’s an exciting time to be working in the food world. For culinary professionals working with children, her book is an invaluable resource offering a whole new perspective on teaching kids how to view and taste foods. Nancy runs her own Washington DC

public relations consulting firm. She works with supermarket dietitians and consumer affairs advisors at grocery chains around the country, on behalf of her food and bever-age clients. Read more about her book at: http://www.nancypiho.com/about_book.php


Quality on the MenuAs North America’s largest foodservice

distributor, food and maintaining a safe food supply are at the core of Sysco’s business. Our product quality literally starts from the ground up. Sysco’s industry-leading Quality Assurance (QA) team works hand-in-hand with our suppliers–both large and small farm-ers, ranchers, growers, packers and proces-sors–to ensure the produce, meat, seafood and food products we supply meet our exacting standards for quality, safety and responsibility. The largest and most active QA team in the industry continually monitors our products and processes. This ensures that our customers receive the safe, quality-assured products they need to run a successful business. National Reach with Local TouchThe source of our food–where it comes from,

who produces it and how it gets to the plate–is increasingly important to our customers and the clientele they serve. Offering specialty and seasonal products obtained from small- to midsize suppliers helps our customers differen-tiate themselves from their competitors. Nearly all of our operating companies have local sourcing programs to aggregate fresh produce and other products from small- and midsize

growers and suppliers so they can be efficiently, cost-effectively and safely integrated into Sysco’s ever-expanding distribution system.Exotic to the EverydayWhile our trucks are a familiar sight across

North America, many people are surprised to learn our supply chain covers more than 40 countries. From basic fare to hard-to-find, imported gourmet items to local produce, Sysco offers the widest food spectrum for even the most discerning of chefs. Our suppliers are inte-gral to our success. While our relationship with smaller growers, farmers, ranchers, purveyors and food artisans vastly extends their market reach and helps them reduce costs, Sysco ben-efits by having a truly diversified, seasonal and top-quality offering for our customers.The Power of PartnershipWalk into a Sysco customer’s kitchen and

you’ll see the power behind the partnership. Whether it’s locally grown spinach, exotic imported morels, eco-friendly paper, or easier-to-lift bags of sugar–Sysco delivers. We work hand-in-hand with restaurant owners and chefs to provide not just quality products, but food-service business expertise on everything from

menu analysis and planning to kitchen equip-ment to digital customer loyalty programs. When Sysco meets with our customers to assess their business needs, our goal is to not only identify solutions, but also deliver them. Help-ing our customers succeed with their customers – that’s the true power of partnership.More Good ThingsOffering our customers more good things

than they expect is a natural way of doing business at Sysco. We go beyond our basic commitment to get customers the quality products they want, when they want them, at the right price and as promised. We do more because we know that when our customers are successful, we are too. That mindset along with our vision to be our customers’ most val-ued and trusted business partner has enabled Sysco to grow into a $44 billion company with approximately 425,000 customers, more than 193 locations throughout the u.S., Canada, Ireland and the Bahamas, and product and service offerings as diverse as the nearly 50,000 employees who support our daily operations. From farm to fork, and everything in between, the good things that come from Sysco provide our customers with the ingredients for success.

Good Things Come from Sysco

Opposite page: The Sysco truck is a familiar sight across North America.Sysco works with numerous small- and midsize growers to get local, fresh and seasonal produce from the farm to the plate. Julienne vegetable salad. Sysco Business Reviews provide customers with in-depth consultation on everything from new product tastings and menu planning to inventory control and customer loyalty programs.

Smoked salmon bruschetta. From basic fare to artisanal cuisine, Sysco offers the food spectrum for even the most discerning of chefs.

F A L L Q u A r T E r L Y 2 0 1 3 17

It takes Sysco.

At Sysco, running good operations and doing good forthe environment go hand-in-hand. We’ve �ne-tuned ourdistribution to reduce food miles by utilizing fewer and fuller trucks driving optimal routes. Now thousands of trucks will never hit the road, and tons of CO2 emissionswill never exist. In the end, our food stays much fresher. Not to mention our planet.


At a time when women didn’t start compa-nies, more than 300 years ago, a woman and her son began a company, which has grown into a global brand. That business is known as Kikkoman. To this day, it remains the num-ber one soy sauce producer in the world and is still brewed naturally by master craftsmen the same way today as it has been since its origin. Kikkoman perfected the craft of naturally

brewing soy sauce many years ago, but they have just recently shared their story through their documentary: Make Haste Slowly. Directed by Academy Award nominated documentarian Lucy Walker, Make Haste Slowly: The Kikkoman Creed tells the story of the brand’s rich history and the family creed that shaped it into the company it is today.Isogaba maware is a Japanese axiom that

translates into “Make Haste Slowly.” It means to advance and grow, but to do so with tremendous thought and care. From its meticulous six-month natural brewing process to a heritage that dates back to feudal Japan, Kikkoman has exemplified this phi-losophy since its modest beginnings in the seventeenth century. remarkable not only for their matriarch

founder and their long history, Kikkoman be-

came the first Japanese company to establish a manufacturing plant in the u.S. in 1973 when it opened a plant in Walworth, Wiscon-sin. This bold financial move proved success-ful, but perhaps more noteworthy is their success at transcending cultural differences to establish deep roots in the local community. One example of Kikkoman’s commitment

to its employees is the story of Belinda Hertel. With only a high school education, Belinda worked in Kikkoman’s warehouse until an opportunity with the human resources department presented itself. The job opportunity required a college degree. Instead of hiring another person with a col-lege degree, Kikkoman sent Belinda to col-lege and supported her education to equip her for the position. Grateful for Kikko-man’s hand in building her career, Belinda said, “They teach you and show you how to grow. When I first started, I didn’t have the confidence, but I have confidence now.”Belinda’s story was captured in the Make

Haste Slowly documentary, which premiered December 2012, at events in New York and San Francisco. Kikkoman executives and influential food media gathered to celebrate the company’s rich history detailed in the

documentary. Each premiere event also fea-tured a traditional Japanese sake barrel break-ing ceremony with Kikkoman uSA President Masanao Shimada and other dignitaries dressed in bright red and white happi coats. In New York, acclaimed Japanese Iron

Chef Masaharu Morimoto created a custom tasting menu for guests including Panko Crusted Oysters, Kikkoman Soy Glazed Pork Belly Steamed Buns and roasted Wagyu Beef. Guests were a captive audience as Chef Morimoto took on the feat of carving a 100-pound tuna. Today Kikkoman’s production facilities in

Walworth, Wisconsin, and Folsom, Califor-nia produce soy sauce and other convenient Asian-style sauces for distribution in the united States and Canada. Culinary profes-sionals praise the superior taste of Kikko-man’s soy sauce and its umami factor, which enhances flavor and boosts the flavor profiles of other ingredients. The next time you drizzle Kikkoman’s rich

soy sauce on your sushi or use it to tender-ize and marinate your meat, take a moment to appreciate the story and craft of the com-pany behind the classic tear-shaped bottle with the red top.

“ MAKE HASTE SLOWLY” Kikkoman upholds its tradition of excellence

I: Ensure progress and family prosperity. II: Faith is the source of virtue. III: Politeness brings peace.

IV: Virtue is the cause, fortune the effect. V: Preserve discipline and maintain tradition.

VI: Business depends upon people. VII: Education is our responsibility. VIII: Approach all living beings with love.

IX: Make every effort to do as much as you can. X: True earning comes from the labor of sweat.

XI: Strive to prosper together with the public. XII: Clearly communicate success or failure.

XIII: Consult with family. XIV: Don’t carelessly fall into debt. XV: Give to society as much as you can.

XVI: Always consult with people before making a decision.

THE KIKKOMAN FAMILY CREED A family business to this day, Kikkoman’s growth has been inspired and guided

by a family creed–a set of 16 articles passed down for 19 generations.

F A L L Q u A r T E r L Y 2 0 1 3 19


A Family Rooted in California Wine History

Wente Vineyards celebrates their 130th Anniversary

F A L L Q u A r T E r L Y 2 0 1 3 21

e were raised with wine as a part of our lifestyle

as German American immigrants who arrived

in California in the late 19th century,” says Carolyn

Wente, fourth generation winegrower and CEO of Wente

Vineyards. 2013 represents a big year for the family, who celebrate 130 years in the industry with a roster of exciting events that give nod to Wente family past accom-plishments and set an anticipatory stage en-visioning the future of the company. Coming full circle this year taking on a position that her grandfather helped establish, Carolyn was named Chair of the Wine Institute, the voice for California wine representing more than 1,000 wineries throughout the state. The Wente family has played an integral

role in the development of wine culture in America since the 19th century. Today, the company maintains its leadership role in Cali-fornia winegrowing under the ownership and management by the fourth and fifth genera-tions of the Wente family. “With such a longstanding history, we are

happy to mark this milestone for both our family and our company,” states Carolyn. “We are proud of our heritage and excited about the many new and innovative projects on the horizon.”

Wente Vineyards is also recognized as one of California’s premier wine country desti-nations. Located just east of San Francisco in the historic Livermore Valley, the winery offers tastings, fine dining and champion-ship golf, while serving as a venue for some of the finest outdoor concerts in California. In 2011, Wente Family Estates received the American Winery of the Year award from Wine Enthusiast Magazine for its leadership role in the wine market, as well as its histori-cal relevance to winemaking and production in the united States.The company was founded in 1883 when

German immigrant Carl H. Wente purchased 48 acres of vineyard land in the Livermore Valley. Blending traditional and innovative winemaking practices, today’s winery draws from 3,000 acres of sustainably farmed estate vineyards, located in Livermore Valley and Arroyo Seco appellations. Most notable within the historical Wente

family history is the Chardonnay clone that was brought to California in 1912 from a vine nursery at Montpellier university in France. Planted in what is now a heritage vineyard, along with cuttings from the historical Gier Vineyard in Pleasanton, California, the Wente clone today comprises a majority of all Char-donnay plantings in California.

It wasn’t always the vinification of grapes that kept the Wente family going. During Prohibition they were able to sell sacra-mental wines for altar purposes and ship grapes to the east coast and other areas for home winemaking. They greatly relied on their farm: livestock, cattle, hogs, sheep, dairy farming, barley and red oat hay to keep the family business going during those trying years. The family continues to be stewards of the land in addition to having an estate beef program, which is incorporated into their award-winning menu at The restaurant at Wente Vineyards. Anticipating the eventual repeal of Prohibition, Ernest and Herman Wente built up an inventory of wine, which aided immensely in getting their wine busi-ness back up and running quickly. The fore-sighted brothers eventually helped establish the Wine Institute to promote the California wine industry.The real icing on the 130th birthday cake

however, is realizing that for early Wente family pioneers, the dream of success and sus-tainability is fully realized. Thirteen decades after Carl H. Wente purchased 48 acres in the Livermore Valley, Wente Vineyards is still the country’s oldest, continuously operated family-owned winery—and will continue to be so for generations to come.

Excellent source of Dietary FiberFat, Cholesterol and Sodium Free

For delicious recipes and more information visit:

www.californiafigs.com

California FigsSimply Beautiful | Simply Delicious

California dried figs are available year round, while fresh figs are available

mid-May through December.

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Waldorf Salad with California Figs

By Saralie Slonsky (New York)On May 10, 2013, New York’s historic

Barbetta restaurant was host to an elegant, intimate luncheon marking 40 years since the founding of an elite professional women’s organization that quickly evolved to become Les Dames d’Escoffier New York (LDNY)–the first chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier International (LDEI). Attending the luncheon were founder

and pre-eminent food journalist, Carol Brock (NY), along with nine of the original 50 charter members. Mary Ellen Griffin (NY)–current LDEI President; Beth Allen (NY)–current LDEI First Vice President and incoming President; and Margaret Happel Perry (NY)– current LDNY President, also joined us. With charter-in-hand from the all-male so-

ciety of gastronomes Les Amis d’Escoffier in 1973, Carol set about starting the first pro-fessional organization for women in wine,

food and hospitality. Women achievers were there but largely invisible. Basically, the culinary mainstream was a man’s world in which men “chef-ed” and women cooked.Bev Barbour Soules (SF), one of the

founding members, points out, “Today, 40 years later, many women sit at the top of these industries and they are recognized on the merits of their own credentials, being judged solely on performance, not family ties.” In those times, for example, barely one in 13 students at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) was a woman. A recent bach-elor’s degree class there, however, included 52 percent women.With New York as LDEI's first chapter, a

goal was set to create an international orga-nization once there were five chapters. That took us ten years. We now have 28 chapters with over 1600 members, including chefs, caterers, restaurant owners, food historians, vintners, wine educators and retailers, leading hospitality executives and TV personalities.

Seated: (L-R) Harriet Lembeck, Carol Brock, Laura Maioglio. Standing: (L-R) Margaret Stern, Clarie Bell, Ella Elvin, Irena Chalmers, Saralie Slonsky and Beverly Barbour Soules. Photo by Wallace Jordan

LDEI New York Charter Members Celebrate


By Molly reams Thompson (Cleveland) and Ashley James (New York) Communications Co-Chairs, GT Advisory Committee Food can change how the world operates.

Pretty ambitious statement, but what other industry is involved and intertwined in our lives on a daily, hourly, even minute-by-minute basis? Food affects our health, the environment, and fuels economies. We have a unique opportunity to effect change on a global level in the way the world relates to food, but to accomplish that, it’s important to first understand how to make an impact in our own backyards.In our current food system model, at least

one leg of the Triple Bottom Line is missing or broken, thus causing the system to be out of balance. For example, the big agriculture/food companies are making record-breaking profits, but the country’s farm soils are all but devoid of any nutrients, resulting in the production of nutrient-deficient foods. More-over, four of the top six major diseases are caused by our diets and lack of nutrients.In a local food system, here’s how it works:People–This system brings people together

and builds community-based relationships by promoting access to healthy and fresh foods.Planet–This system replenishes the soil and

encourages environmental stewardship.Profit–This system dramatically reduces

long-distance transportation, eliminates the need for synthetic fertilizers, and relies on local labor and consumption so the money stays in local communities instead of being exported.There are numerous examples of how peo-

ple are active with productive food systems:Will Allen of Milwaukee, Wisconsin, grows

enough food on just 3 acres to feed 10,000 people annually. GreenGrow Farms of Philadelphia, Penn-

sylvania, transformed one acre of brownfield (contaminated land that is unusable without reclamation) into productive land that gen-erates $1 million per year! Detroit, Michigan’s entire community

is banding together (including Gleaners, Greening of Detroit, and Whole Foods) to help grow food for residents, revitalize the land into urban agriculture, foster the arts, and support the school system with the introduction of school gardens in 45 out of 89 elementary schools.

Food for Thought

LDEI LOGO ITEMS! Wear your LDEI pride for all to see with one of the great merchandise items available in our online store. We have baseball caps, em-broidered patches, lapel pins and silver cuff bracelets. We even have a special program with Tiffany & Company for a couple of very special logoed jewelry items.

Visit www.ldei.org to access the LDEI online store. Click on the Members Only link in the upper right hand corner. If you have never logged in before, there are simple-to-use instructions in the front of your membership directory. Once you are logged in, there is an Online Store link on the top navigation bar that will take you to the merchandise (hats, pins, bracelets and patches). The Tiffany & Co. offer can be found by clicking the Documents Icon in the center of the Members Only page, then on Special Offers.

The merchandise is always available and ships within a few days of ordering. If you have any questions, contact the LDEI staff at [email protected].

navy cap with White Embroidery $18.00white cap with Navy Embroidery $18.00

embroidered Patch Blue $5.00embroidered Patch White $5.00

silver cuff Bracelet $175.00

Lapel Pin $10.00

Dames Supporting Dames Many of us own farms, restaurants, grocery stores, vineyards, etc. Help promote not only sustainability, but also support our fellow Dames by selling some of their “Green” products or have a wine tasting featuring wine from a fellow Dame’s Vineyard, or help to promote each other via social media!Now THAT is some delicious food for thought!

How We Can Help!Get Involved:• Support your local farm-

ers’ market–go spend at least $5 weekly on local produce and products. You can get great deals on food that tastes better and is better for you.

• Participate in a local food program; become part of your local community or school garden.

• Grow your own food.

F A L L Q u A r T E r L Y 2 0 1 3 23


a 2013 James Beard Foundation Award for their magnificent cookbook, Mastering the Art of Southern Cooking (Gibbs Smith), in the category of American Cooking. The chapter celebrated Nathalie’s win at a lovely gar-den reception, hosted by Holly Herrick.Nathalie was a recent recipient of the prestigious 2013 Dame de L’Année

Award from the renowned l’Académie Culinaire de France (ACF). In June, Jennifer Goldman and Patrick Properties Hospitality Group hosted the North American Conference for ACF and Les Maîtres Cuisiniers de France, a sister organization. During the annual assembly, Nathalie received the award at a gala dinner at Lowndes Grove Plantation, presented by New York Dame Ariane Daguin, founder & owner of D’Artagnan. (L-r).Correspondent Martha Teichner and her CBS News Sunday Morning

team won a James Beard Foundation Award in the category of Best TV Food Program–in studio or fixed location. To honor Martha, the recipient of five James Beard awards, the Charleston Chapter hosted a 4-star recep-tion at High Cotton featuring a delicious array of Chef Palma's charcuterie and Maverick Southern Kitchen's signature cocktails. Twenty Dames enjoyed lunch at Twenty Six Divine with Chef Iverson

Brownell and Melissa Sokolosky, who spoke about foods that prevent can-cer, the dangers in our everyday food sources and food deserts–urban swaths and rural areas with little or no access to foods essential for maintaining a healthy diet. The chapter’s annual Autumn Affair fund-raiser took place on October 3

at Lowndes Grove Plantation.

AuSTINKavita PatelThe local chapter of Slow Food Austin recently held an annual fundraiser

called Grub Trivia. Dames Valerie Broussard and Kavita Patel, Slow Food Austin Board Members, were involved with planning the event. It was a food-themed, pub trivia shindig with a grub crawl (aka food tastings), raffle prizes and a hog butchering and auction during halftime-an annual favorite! Several Austin Dames competed as part of trivia teams and our very own Cecilia Nasti was on the winning team, Comte Cheeses! It was a great event for the community, allowing Slow Food Austin to continue offering educational events, monthly happy hours and scholarships for conferences.

BOSTONIsabel Chesak

On July 9, twenty Dames gathered in Mary-Catherine Diebel’s Zebra room at upstairs on the Square in Cambridge. We enjoyed delicate salads of butter lettuce with sunchokes, sprouts and hazelnuts. Main courses consisted of a choice of tempura soft shell crab with avocado and lime vinaigrette or grilled han-gar steak with trumpet mushrooms, onion strings and patty pan squash. The dessert was early summer in a bowl– strawberry rhubarb crumble with vanilla ice cream. Seg-ments of next season’s educational and social events were discussed. Everyone present was reminded of the importance of attending the Austin Conference and of the sheer enjoyment in experiencing the local flavor, attending planned work-shops, presentations and networking with other chapter Dames.

CHArLESTON Susan SlackThe chapter is pleased to welcome six new Dames: Anne Marie, Dev-

aney Vickery-Davidson, Jill Mathias, Jessica Mischner, Lisa Buzzelli and Sara Clow.Charleston Dames honor two award-winning members: Nathalie Dupree

and Martha Teichner. "The South is the new Italy," exclaimed Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree as she, and co-author Cynthia Graubart, accepted

Compiled byJanet Burgess (San Diego)

Front row: Carla Williams, Cecilia Nasti, Elizabeth Winslow, Valerie BroussardBack Row: Cathy Cochran-Lewis, Theresa Wilson, Cathy Strange, Denice Woods, Jane Nickles

Danielle Wecksler, Sarah Graham, Susan Wigley, Martha Teichner and Jennifer Goldman. Martha Teichner, Deidre Schipani and Nathalie Dupree.Paige Crone and Martha Teichner.(L-R) Gerard Dupont, President ACF Worldwide; Woman of the Year recipient Nathalie Durpee; Dame Ariane Daguin and Jean-Louis Gerin, President ACF, U.S. Delegation.

CHICAGOLinda AveryLes Dames d’Escoffier Chicago Chapter held a champagne reception on May

14 to present the 2013 awardees in their annual scholarship program. Seven female culinary students from five local schools were introduced to a group of 40 members and guests. Not only will each student receive financial aid from our scholarship fund, but they will each be awarded a one-year mentorship by being paired with one of the local members to share activities, experiences and expertise. Thanks to Kendall College and Boisset France for making the evening a great success.

NEW YOrKMargaret Happel PerryThe LDNY Chapter moved forward with momentum into our planned late

spring and summer events, all in some way focused around our members and their achievements. May’s dinner at Cucharamama, the restaurant belonging to Maricel Prescilla, was especially significant. It was the first event Maricel hosted after being named the winner of the “James Beard Cookbook of the Year Award” with her magnificent book, la Grande Cucina Latina. Maricel’s restaurant is in the hurricane-devastated town of Hoboken and LDNY was particularly glad to celebrate there. Following of the heels of Maricel’s evening, Kimberly Tryba and Joyce Appelman arranged two significant fund-raisers for scholarships by working in partnership with LuPEC- Ladies united for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails at Macao Trading Company in the West Village. These events built to a purposeful crescendo at the Scholarship Awards Evening held in July at the International Culinary Center hosted by its founder and CEO, Dorothy Hamilton, Honorary Chair for the event. Twenty-three winners received over $60,000 in scholarship funds. Scholarship is always the main focus of LDNY’s philanthropy; everyone who contributed deserves a special accolade and the thanks of all our membership. Of special note: Co-chairs, Caroline Lee Jackson and Kathleen Sanderson; Sydny Miner who wrote the script and did much behind the scenes and the dedicated scholarship chairs, Linda Lawry and Karen Goodlad. LOS ANGELES/OrANGE COuNTYDeirdre Michalski & Phyllis Ann MarshallDames and friends gathered together to enjoy the best kept secret in Or-

ange County (OC). The Cypress Culinary Jr. College luncheon was prepared and served by the students under the direction of Director and Lisa Clark and Chef Jeremy Peters. New LDEI LA/OC members Nancy Hunyadi and Terri Schaeffer planned the event, which included Grace Bauer, Polly Peak, Suzanne Beukema, Anne Watson and new member Christie Frazier. Chef Jeremy Peters demonstrated his tips and techniques for chilling with

Nitrogen, which was bubbling before our very eyes. First were the berries and his secret vanilla gelato recipe, sans eggs, that stole the show. We also received a tour of the amazing state-of-the-art commercial kitchen and baking area, complete with a Tandori oven. Following the tour, Terri Schaeffer led the group in a Team Building Ex-

travaganza that was so much fun. Dames broke into groups and each team built a different bridge out the canned and packaged foods donated that day. It was great fun and Terri kindly drove the 215 pounds of food to the OC

rescue Mission. It was a very inspiring day. We enjoyed a lovely lunch, were touched by the students we met and very motivated by the “giving back” component of this day. We all agreed that having an “interactive component” to our events helps us to get to know each other better, and gives us a sense of purpose. We can’t wait for the next one!

PHIL ADELPHIASarah OhanesianThe Philadelphia-based culinary program at Julian Krinsky Camps & Pro-

grams had teens from across the country and the world cooking up a storm. The cooking school was founded by Dame Tina Krinsky in 1993 and has

since enhanced the culinary skills of thousands of young foodies. This past summer, students surrounded Tina Krinsky, Ann-Michelle Albertson and many talented chef instructors, for more than just a basic understanding of food and cooking. The talented instructors instill a deeper knowledge, incorporating such concepts as how a cuisine is developed, what makes food authentic and the differ-ence between mass mar-keting food and heirloom products. “The teens bring such

energy, talent, enthusi-asm and artistry to the classroom/kitchen. I can’t believe their willingness to experiment and experi-ence new things,” says Ann-Michelle. Students from 35 coun-

tries and 30 states traveled to the greater Philadel-phia area to participate in one of three cooking programs. Depending on their age, students attend programs at Villanova university or Haverford College. It’s one thing to know how to read a list of ingredients in a cookbook, but it takes an artist to know how to put them together to create delicious and beautiful dishes. Plus, it’s fascinating to see a boy from Sao Paolo cook alongside a girl from Tokyo and another from New York City. The fusion of flavors and cultures is truly amazing. As Tina commented, “What an honor for us to witness their early success

on their food journey.”

SAN ANTONIOBlanca AldacoOur May meeting at the residence of Linda Triesch was indeed a fun and

interesting one! Once our Board meeting was done with business, we were escorted to the fabulous kitchen to learn how to make fresh mozzarella from scratch and wood fired piz-zas. The evening, as usual, was delectable. The historic St. Anthony

Hotel was the locale for our bi-annual business meeting on June 4. The evening was complete… Old World, candles and chandeliers set a vibrant mood. New member and officer elections took place, six scholarships were awarded in the amount of $22,000

F A L L Q u A r T E r L Y 2 0 1 3 25

Los Angeles/Orange County Dames and guests lunch at Cypress Culinary Jr. College. Chef Jeremy Peters demonstrates chilling with Nitrogen.

Team building exercises create culinary bridges.

Dames Tina Krinsky and Ann-Michelle Albertson demonstrate the art of seasonal cooking utilizing local farm-to-table ingredients.

Isabel Sanchez Wong and Lisa Wong with San Antonio Co-presidents Leslie Horne and Linda Triesch.


and our chapter’s coveted “Legacy Award” was presented to Mrs. Isabel Sanchez Wong. A $1,000 donation in her name was made to the National Legacy Awards for her long and arduous career in the restaurant business. Her contribution of dedication, knowledge and attention to detail have made a huge impact in San Antonio, Texas, elevating to global recognition, rosario’s Mexican Café y Cantina, her daughter Lisa Wong’s restaurant.The St. Anthony Hotel’s executive chef and his staff prepared a meticulous

four-course dinner accompanied by Becker Wines. Everyone enjoyed the lovely evening. We are excited about our new members: Leslie Komet-Aus-burn, Debbie Gonzalez, Gina Inglett-Gonzalez and Elizabeth Kossic-Johnson and look forward to an exciting year!

SEAT TLEBraiden Rex-JohnsonIn late March, the Seattle Chapter selected five new members, and

welcomed three of them in April at a Mediterranean-inspired dinner at FareStart in downtown Seattle.

Amanda Bevill is the owner of World Spice Merchants, Seattle’s premier spice, herb and tea emporium, with a retail location in the Pike Place Mar-ket. Renee Erickson is chef/owner of Boat Street Café, The Walrus and the Carpenter, The Whale Wins, and The Narwhal food truck, and co-owner of Boat Street Pickles.

Marie-Eve Gilla serves as Winemaker/Managing Partner at Forgeron Cellars, which is based in Walla Walla, Washington, with a tasting room in Woodinville, Wa. Kari Leitch is Vice President of Communications at Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, which is among the 10 largest wine companies in the united States. As senior director of international sales and marketing for Allrecipes.com, Lynn Woll works with local teams to monetize and build audiences for the 17 Allreci-pes sites outside the united States. In May, Seattle Dames learned about “Digital Food Trends: real Insights

from Global Kitchens,” presented by newly minted Dame Lynn Woll. Leslie Mackie, founder/co-owner of Macrina Bakery & Café, offered up assorted sandwiches, mezze platters, and cookies for dessert. In June, Seattle Dames rolled up their sleeves and met over boxed dinners to

strategize for their biennial auction entitled, “There is Nothing Like a Dame: 25 Years of Giving.” The chapter’s major fundraiser will take place on Tuesday, November 12, at the Women’s university Club in downtown Seattle.

ST. LOuISJudy EvansAs the nutritionist for NBC’s “The Biggest Loser,” Cheryl Fosberg guides

contestants on their journey to healthful eating. As someone who spent seven years becoming a registered dietitian, she understands the power of persistence. “I thought I’d rather get it at 40 than not have it at all,” said Cheryl, who

spoke via Skype with members of the St. Louis Chapter, gathered at the state-of-the-art culinary event center at Dierbergs Markets’ flagship store.

Barb Ridenhour and Marianne Moore of Dierbergs hosted the event and cooked dinner with recipes from Cheryl’s new cookbook, Flavor First. In addition to being a registered dietitian, Cheryl is a classically trained

chef and a James Beard-winning cookbook author. When she’s not working with “The Biggest Loser” in Los Angeles, she heads home to Napa Valley, her boyfriend and her 13 chickens. Those chickens live on her urban farm, which also features a 45 foot-square garden, a 100-year-old fig tree, persim-mon trees and plum trees. She explained some of her happiest childhood memories were the sum-

mers spent at her grandmother’s Wisconsin farm. Her mother, (who used to have an egg route), doesn’t share Cheryl’s view of farm life. “My mom still thinks I’m crazy,” she said. The chickens are a big draw for Cheryl’s Facebook fans. She’s paying a lot

of attention to social media, hiring a brand strategist to help post regularly and answer questions. “You’ve got to get on the social media train or you’ll be left behind,” she observed.

Amanda Bevill Renee Erickson Kari Leitch

Janice Reece (Atlanta)

1953–2013

By Amy Crowell (Atlanta) It is with great sorrow that the Atlanta Chapter announces the

passing of member Janice Reece. Jan-ice spent the last 23 years at the At-lanta Community Food Bank (ACFB) holding leadership roles in a variety of positions, most recently as Director of Marketing and Communications. During her tenure with the

Food Bank, Janice’s wide expanse of responsibilities included heading up fundraising events, creating new programs to help Atlanta’s hungry and building on her vast network of relationships to bring light and voice to this important cause. To most of our members and much of the Atlanta hospitality com-munity, Janice was the link to this immense but often invisible problem–and to solutions we could employ to help end hunger in our community. Janice became a member of LDEI Atlanta in 2006. Nomi-

nating Dame Mary Moore said, “Janice was full of love, energy and the most amazing spirit. She made things happen for ACFB through her gentle and persuasive spirit, making no one ever feel that their donation of time, money or otherwise was ever too little. On a personal level, Janice was a great mentor to me–her guidance and leadership always made me feel like we could ac-complish anything, no matter how crazy it seemed.” Prior to her work in the nonprofit sector, Janice held execu-

tive level positions at the Peasant restaurant Group in Atlanta as well as other restaurant establishments. In 2012, she received the GrACE Chairman’s Award from the Georgia restaurant As-sociation in honor of her great work in the community. She will be profoundly missed. Donations can be made in her honor to the Atlanta Community Food Bank at acfb.org or a fundraising campaign which has been set up through September 30 to help her husband with the multitude of expenses that have accumu-lated through her illness and passing at http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/in-memory-of-janice-reece.

IN MEMOrIAM

Jill Lewis (Austin)

1960-2013The Austin Chapter of LDEI mourns the loss of Jill Lewis, the

spunky powerhouse behind the salsas and condiments of the popular local artisan food company, Austin Slow Burn. Lewis died of esophageal cancer at age 53 on June 4. In response, her many friends in the Austin chapter rallied to raise almost $16,000 (via a GiveForward campaign supported by spirited social media) to help her family pay for medical expenses. This year’s annual Austin Chronicle Hot Sauce Contest, held on August 25, was dedicated to Jill. Her company, Austin Slow Burn, always partici-pated and often won prizes.

F A L L Q u A r T E r L Y 2 0 1 3 27

IN MEMOrIAM

The Dames of LDEI London invite you to discover London through their eyes in a 4-day extravaganza of food, wine and fun! See the city the tourists miss, as the London Dames become your tour guides, taking you to their favorite foodie haunts and sharing their secret London.

P R O G R A M *Thursday: Check into the Meliá White House Hotel*

then join us for a welcome toast before we head off to a secret-and famous-location for an exclusive after-hours treat where you’ll graze on some of the finest British specialties.

Friday: Option A: If you’re an early riser, join us

on a tour of London’s famous wholesale markets of Billingsgate (fish and seafood) and Smithfield (meat and game) followed by breakfast at a local tavern. Then, a chance to nap before we head to Green-wich’s Meantime Brewing for lunch and a craft beer tasting. Option B: Take a trip west and go forag-

ing in the countryside with Chef roger Jones (VP of the Master Chefs of Great Britain), followed by a visit to Dove’s Farm, a specialist organic mill co-owned by Dame Clare Marriage who will host a tour. Then enjoy a delicious lunch at Chef Jones’ restaurant, The Harrow in Little Bedwyn, followed by a tasting of wines curated by partner and wine expert Sue Jones. We re-group for a tasting of English

gin and a special dinner at Café Spice

Namaste, Cyrus Todiwalla’s renowned restaurant close by the Tower of London in historic Whitechapel.

Saturday: Visit the real Food Market at the South-

bank Center where you can shop the market and enjoy a dedicated program of demon-strations from noted British chefs in the Cookery Theater. Alternatively, take a tour of London’s specialty food shops where you’ll enjoy tastings and meet the people behind these gems. Save some energy for a gala din-ner featuring the ‘Best of British’ tonight.

Sunday: Finish with the Great British Breakfast.

An additional option of a classic English Afternoon Tea will be a treat for those extending their stay. Price: £1300 includes 3 nights* hotel

accommodations (with breakfast). Many events open to spouses and partners. To request a reservation form or to make in-quiries, email Dame Sue Carter. A deposit is required to confirm a reservation. The deadline is November 30. Space is limited, so book early! Visit the London Dames' website where additional details will be available as they are confirmed.

Contact:Sue Carter, LDEI [email protected] lesdameslondon.org.ukProgram and events subject to change. LDEI London reserves the right to cancel due to insufficient demand.

Les Dames d’Escoffier London Present

EDIBLE LONDONMay 15-18, 2014


ATLANTA

Mary S. Moore, founder and owner of The Cook’s Warehouse, received the prestigious 2013 ICON Award for Individual Career Accomplishment. The ICON Awards are a program founded and staged by AmericasMart Atlanta and are sponsored exclusively by the Gift & Home Trade Association (GHTA) and Sandow Media.

Carolyn O'Neil is the author of the new book Slim Down South (with the editors of Southern Living Magazine) to be published December 2013 by Ox-moor House. Slim Down South features 150 fresh and delicious recipes for Southern foods and is Southern Living's first healthy Southern cookbook.

Kathleen Perry is very pleased to introduce Chef's Duster by the everyday gourmet®, the first of her kitchen tool inventions manufactured and distributed in partner-ship with r.S.V.P. Int'l (Seattle), and is available at www.ldei.org Dame-to-Dame and gourmet specialty stores.

AUSTIN

Iliana de la Vega, the co-owner of El Naranjo res-taurant, debuted a new weekly Spanish radio show Platicando y Cocinando en Español on radio Mujer Austin. The show is about food and Latin cooking traditions with a focus on health problems of the Spanish speaking popula-tion, particularly as they relate to children.

Valerie Broussard, Forager at the W Austin, was awarded the Catherine Brandel Fellowship from the Women Chefs & restaurateurs. She spent a week interning in the kitchen at Chez Panisse, followed by a week working on Chez Panisse supplier Bob Cannard’s Sonoma Farm. Valerie was joined by Austin Dame Mary Margaret Pack for a visit to Love Apple Farms (Manresa restau-rant) and The French Laundry garden.

Tracy Claros, founder of The Sticky Toffee Pudding Company, picked up her 4th sofi™ award (Specialty Outstanding Food Innovation) in 7 years at the Summer Fancy Food show. The award went to the company’s “Chocolate Tiffin” dessert bar. This year’s finalists were selected from a record number of 2,573 entries. Tracy also participated in a Local Producer Loan Program Summit sponsored by Whole Foods Market Chicago.

BOSTON

Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS show Ciao Italia, completed her 25th year of production. This year she will receive the Premio Artusi Award and the Order of the Star of Italy for her work in the field of regional Italian food. The St. Martins Press published her recent book, Ciao Italia Classics.

Lee Napoli, Boston's chapter president and pastry maven, opened her first bakery-café, Bread + Butter on the rose Kennedy Greenway in historic North End. A

Compiled by Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii)

constant trail of customers are rejoicing in her flaky croissants, warm but-tery scones, soft and gooey pecan rolls and a show stopper called "Queen's Pastry." Savory sandwiches on fresh baked bread, unique entrées and her Chocolee Chocolates are also featured.

CHARLESTON

Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree, a James Beard Award-winning author, has been honored by the internationally renowned l’Académie Culinaire de France (ACF) as recipient of its prestigious 2013 Dame de L’Année Award. As ACF Woman of the Year, Dupree joins the ranks of culinary luminaries beginning with 1998 honoree Julia Child.

CHICAGO

Carrie Nahabedian, a James Beard award-winning chef, and partner-cousin Michael Nahabedian announce the opening of their new restaurant Brindille located in Chicago river North. Carrie created the “refined Parisian” menu to reflect her love of France.

Sharon Olson was honored by The National As-sociation of College and university Food Services (NACuFS) with the richard Lichtenfelt Award which recognizes outstanding service on a national level. The award recognized Sharon's leadership and contributions to developing a body of new consum-er and professional research that studies Wellness Programs on College and university Campuses.

DALLAS

Dotty Griffith was named a Living Legend of North Texas Journalism May 2013 in Dallas. The event honored notable persons in print and electronic media. Dotty was a former reporter, food editor and restaurant critic with The Dallas Morn-ing News and is currently the executive director for the Greater Dallas restaurant Association.

Georgia Kostas was honored in May 2013 by the Dallas Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics with a Lifetime Achievement Award. Georgia is a regis-tered dietitian, a public and media spokesperson and author of The Cooper Clinic Solution to the Diet Revolution (2009) and three other books.

HOUSTON

Sandra Shafer is participating in a French exchange program through the Culinary Institute LeNotre and Lycee Notre Dame Du roc. She will be work-ing in France at Auberge de la Diligence (http://www.diligence.fr), a restaurant that has been awarded one Michelin Star and features organic sustainable produce grown on site.

Gracie Cavnar's children's book Eat It! Food Adventures with Marco Polo has received numerous awards including recognition from the Purple Drag-onfly Book Awards, International Book Awards, National Indie Excellence Awards, San Francisco Book Festival, IBPA Benjamin Franklin Awards, Next Generation Indie Book Awards, Mom's Choice Awards, New York Book Festival and New England Book Festival.

LOS ANGELES

Anne Willan celebrates the release of her mem-oir, One Souffle at a Time: A Memoir of Food and France, which includes recipes (St. Martin’s Press, September 2013). She will be sharing unpublished stories and additional recipes throughout the fall with co-author Amy Friedman. For more informa-tion, please visit: http://lavarenne.com/events/.

Kathleen Perry

Mary Ann Esposito

Lee Napoli

Nathalie Dupree

Carrie Nahabedian

Sharon Olson

Dotty Griffith

Georgia Kostas

Anne Willan

F A L L Q u A r T E r L Y 2 0 1 3 29

Marie-Annick Courtier, owner of Chef Marie Academy and mentor for “Cooking up Change” for the Los Angeles unified School District, served as chair of the judging committee for the healthy schools competition. The winning Santa Ana Valley High, California team also won the National competition. The Cooking up Change program was featured on CA Chan-nel 7 ABC news. http://abclocal.go.com/kabc/story?section=news/local/los_angeles&id=9191513

Cathy Thomas, Orange County Register food columnist, launched her latest book, 50 Best Plants on the Planet, an encyclopedia of nutrient-rich fruits and vegetables with Melissa's Produce. The health benefits are highlighted with tips on how to buy, store, and prepare fruits and vegetables including 150 recipes for simple sides and main courses.

NEW YORK

Melanie Young has published Getting Things Off My Chest: A Survivor’s Guide To Staying Fearless and Fabu-lous in the Face of Breast Cancer (Cedar Fort Inc./Sep-tember 10). The book provides useful information and tips from survivors and experts to help women make informed decisions and look and feel their best. The book can be pre-ordered through Amazon.com.

Alexandra Guarnaschelli, along with partners Scott Sartiano and richie Akiva, opened an uptown branch of Butter restaurant, in the heart of midtown Manhattan, 70 West 45th Street. The flagship Butter is located on Lafayette Street.

Meryle Evans’ food history article on the Fourth of July in the 19th century appears on the Food Arts web site. “Feasting on The Fourth of July” is a lovely serendipitous look into Fourth holiday food traditions.

Sarabeth Levine’s Creamy Tomato Soup earned a sofi™ (Specialty Outstand-ing Food Innovation) Award from the Specialty Food Association.

Karen Page was awarded a Certificate in Plant-Based Nutrition from Cornell university and the T. Colin Campbell Foundation. Her coursework was an eye-opening learning experience, informing her completion of The Vegetarian Flavor Bible scheduled to be published (Little, Brown) Fall 2014. The book will feature the insights of America's most vegetable-enamored chefs.

Liz Neumark, CEO and founder of Great Performances–one of the largest off-premise catering companies in New York City, published a cookbook, Sylvia’s Table available on Amazon.com. The cookbook features recipes from farm to kitchen. Liz is the owner of an organic farm, the non-profit Sylvia Center at Katchkie Farm, where children learn about fresh food.

PHILADELPHIA

Aliza Green's thirteenth book, The Soupmaker's Kitch-en: How to Save Your Scraps, Prepare a Stock, and Craft the Perfect Pot of Soup, (Quarry Books) is a step-by-step photo-based “how to” book featuring excellent food photography by renowned photographer, Steve Legato.

ST. LOUIS

Julia M. Usher proudly unveiled her latest online ven-ture last month – “Cookie Connection”, a community to learn, share and celebrate the art of cookie decorat-ing, http://cookieconnection.juliausher.com/home). Julia assumed the role of IACP President on June 30.

SAN DIEGO

Carole Bloom’s new book, Caramel (Gibbs-Smith), features 65 scrumptious recipes and 45 beautiful photographs. Carole’s book Intensely Chocolate, was featured in an article, The Lighter Side of Chocolate, in Desserts Magazine (31). Carole was a judge of boutique chocolate bars for Taste TV, producers of the “Chocolate Salon”.

SEATTLE

Fran Bigelow, founder/owner of Fran’s Chocolates, was the featured speaker at a monthly meeting of the Insti-

tute of Food Technologists (IFT) in Seattle. She presented a talk on “Chocolate: History, Development of Flavor, and Tasting.” Bigelow’s award-winning Gray Salt Caramels are a favorite at the Obama White House.

Kristi Drake is co-owner of Le Panier–a classic boulangerie in the Pike Place Market, which celebrated its 30th anniversary in June. Drake and her staff raised $2,000 for The Pike Place Market Foundation, which assists the Market’s low-income residents, by donating a portion of sales on Macaron Day (March 20).

Joy Gulmon-Huri has been promoted to Director of Culinary Programs at the Seattle Culinary Academy. Gulmon-Huri has been employed at Seattle Central Community College for more than 40 years. In her new posi-tion, she manages the office staff, oversees department operations, and collabo-rates closely with numerous departments within the college.

Sharon Kramis is celebrating 35 years as a consultant with Anthony’s restau-rants, a locally owned company that comprises 29 restaurants in 23 locations throughout the Pacific Northwest. Started in 1969, the company focuses on waterfront-view locations showcasing seasonal Northwest seafood and produce in relaxed dinner houses, casual-dining restaurants, and “to-go” fish-‘n’-chips bars.

Dawn Smith has been named dining-room manager and lead sommelier at Stoneburner restaurant and The Olympic rooftop Pavilion, located in the new Hotel Ballard near downtown Seattle. The restaurant and private-event space will revolve around stone-hearth cooking and handmade pasta using farm-fresh and artisan foods from the Northwest and beyond.

Kim Smith (CEPC), pastry and baking arts instructor at South Seattle Community College (SSCC), received the “Outstanding Faculty Award" presented by the SSCC Foundation. Smith received her classical training in both culinary and specialty baking at SSCC nearly 30 years ago, and has been in teaching for the past 15 years.

WASHINGTON, D.C.

Amy Riolo's expanded edition of her award-winning second cookbook, Nile Style: Egyptian Cuisine and Cul-ture was released in July. She is teaching a cooking series based on the book's recipes at Living Social.

Ris Lacoste, chef/owner of rIS, is proud that her epony-mous restaurant has been recognized by the u.S. Health-ful Food Council for its responsible Epicurean and Agricultural Leadership (rEAL). Being rEAL certified is a program of uSHFC to connect people who want healthful and sustainable food and beverage options with restaurants who can accommodate those needs.

Susan Soorenko, owner of Moorenko's Ice Cream factory and cafe in Silver Spring, Md., was featured in the spring 2013 issue of Foodshed magazine. The article detailed the challenges of running her own manufactur-ing business on the company’s 10th anniversary. The ice cream factory offers customers an opportunity to design their own ice cream flavor and have it packaged for a special event.

Michelle Poteaux and her husband Christophe, Chefs and Owners of Bastille restaurant in Alexandria, Va., were the featured chefs for the James Beard House’s Bastille Day Fête on July 15. They presented their own five-course spin on contemporary French food befit-ting the tradition of the iconic locale and the French celebration.

Nancy Tringali Piho organized the first-ever Chicken Media Summit, "Chicken – Farm to Forklift," on behalf of the National Chicken Council (NCC) and the u.S. Poultry & Egg Association (uSPOuLTrY). The event was held April 17-19 in New Bern and Kinston, North Carolina. Nancy is the author of My Two Year Old Eats Octopus: Raising Children Who Love to Eat Everything.

Melanie Young

Aliza Green

Julia M. Usher

Carole Bloom

Kristi Drake

Kim Smith

Amy Riolo

Ris Lacoste


Carol Brock, Dolores Snyder, Jeanne A. Voltz, Claire Boasi, Julie Dannenbaum

E Carolyn Wente Beth AllenEileen DuboseToria EmasPatty ErdAlice Gautsch ForemanMary Ellen GriffinCrickett KarsonMary MooreAileen RobbinsDolores SnyderVanessa TrostSharon Van Meter Atlanta ChapterDallas ChapterHouston Chapter

E New Brock Circle members.

The Brock Circle Members

Nespresso began more than 20 years ago with a simple but revolutionary idea, to create the perfect cup of Espresso coffee.

The unique combination of premium portioned Grand Cru coffees, stylish machines, and exceptional customer service all together provide

the ultimate coffee experience both at home or for your business.

ThE UlT imaTE CoffEE ExpEriEnCE

Discover the World of Nespressowww.nespresso.comwww.nespresso.com/pro

“Farm Fresh from the Big Island to your Kitchen”

Wailea Agricultural Group, Inc.

www.waileaag.com

eGourmet Rice ...makes every meal scial!

For ee recis and information visit mahatmarice.com

EAT 48g OR MORE OFWHOLE GRAINS DAILY

Les Dames 09.MECH:Layout 1 8/12/09 12:17 PM Page 1

DeaDlines 2014 WINTER ISSUE - OCTOBER 31, 2013 | 2014 SPRING ISSUE - JANUARY 15, 2014 2014 SUMMER ISSUE - APRIL 15, 2014 | 2014 FALL ISSUE - AUGUST 4, 2014

PhotograPhy/imagesElectronic images must be properly focused and in color with a minimum resolution of 300 dpi (TIFF or JPEG). Cell phone photos are acceptable if they meet resolution requirements. Do not send photos taken off the Internet or embedded with text in Word files or PDF files. Please identify individuals in photos from left to right in the message of your email. Include photo credits, if required, and captions. aLL PhoToGraPhs musT come wiTh caPTions To Be PuBLished.

member milestonesLIST DAME’S NAME and XXX CHAPTER. Each Dame may submit up to 50 words about honors or important business-related activities, as preferred, to appear in print. You may email a quality headshot to accompany your news. Press releases and cookbook covers are not accepted. (Cookbook covers are accepted for the LDEI website.) Email your Member Milestone and photo to MM Editor, hayley matson-mathes at [email protected] by the deadline listed above. Entries received after these dates may appear in a following issue. Photos of Dames networking at conferences or other chapter events may also be sent to this section.

ChaPter newsCHAPTER XX (By, the submitter's name, office or title, if any). Each Chapter may submit 250 words as you would like to see it in print. You may include photos to accompany your news, noting photography requirements above. Submissions that exceed the word count will be edited. (A lengthy submission on a special chapter event could be considered for a feature; contact the editor in advance.) Press releases are not accepted. We regret we don't have space to print full menus but menu items can be included in the copy. Submissions not conforming to this format may not be printed due to deadlines and volunteer’s lack of time. Email to Janet Burgess at [email protected] by the deadline date. Entries received after this date may appear in the following issue.

e-newsletterThis bi-monthly publication will keep you informed about events in other chapters and encourages networking. Press releases are not accepted. Include an email contact, date, time, cost for chapter events. Lack of space prevents member milestones, product news, listing of cooking classes or tours. You will receive a reminder call for “e-news” email. Respond to helen roberts at [email protected].

PostCarD Views oF the global CUlinary initiatiVe If your chapter is involved with culinary programs and community activities that cross cultural barriers and exemplify the spirit of the Global Culinary Initiative, send a 200-word description of your event with photos. WE BeLOnG (page 21) features excerpts of insightful, relevant content from Dame’s personal blogs or chapter websites. Be a guest blogger and tell us what’s on your mind! Send inquiries to [email protected] or [email protected].

uPCOMING in the

winter issue

Complete 2013 Conference Coverage

©2013 Schnucks

Schnucks is Proud To Partner with Les Dames

d’Esco�er!Schnucks is a St. Louis based

family owned grocery company founded in 1939 by “Mom and Pop” –

Anna Donovan Schnuck and Edwin Schnuck. Anna encouraged Edwin to open a store where they

could sell her homemade potato salad along with quality meats.

The company, now in its third generation, employs 14,500 teammates in 100 stores and 96 in-store pharmacies across

the Midwest.

®

LDEI.indd 1 3/5/13 4:10 PM

F A L L Q u A r T E r L Y 2 0 1 3 31

Send Austin conference articles for the 2014 winter Quarterly to CiCi Williamson. Send material for the 2014 spring Quarterly to Susan Slack. Query with ideas for long feature articles; refer to the submission guidelines above.

P.O. Box 4961Louisville, KY 40204

AtlantaAustin

BostonBritish Columbia, Canada

CharlestonChicago

Cleveland/Northeast OhioColorado

DallasHawaii

HoustonKansas City/Heart of America

London, EnglandLos Angeles/Orange County

MiamiMinneapolis/St. Paul

Monterey Bay AreaNew York

NortheastPalm SpringsPhiladelphia

PhoenixSan Antonio

San DiegoSan Francisco

SeattleSt. Louis

Washington, DC

CULINARY CROSSROADS [ Innovation Location State of Mind ]Sign-up for the yoga sessions and the walking and shopping tours. Don’t miss the specialty tea and dessert session featuring 2013 SOFI award recipient Sticky Toffee Pudding Company, owned by Dame Tracy Claros and Austin’s most popular tea café, The Steeping Room, owned by Dame Amy March. Check in with the Social Media Doctor and promote the conference and your business.

Purchase local goods through Coterie Market and FED-EX in the hospitality room. Come a day early and attend one of the four optional tours we have planned for

your ultimate Austin experience: The Urban Farm Excursion, Green Tables community day at SFC– a day of service, The Texas Wine and Salt Lick BBQ tour or the Food Truck Treasures tour.

Relax a while and stay for Sunday’s Texas Book Festival festivities. Whatever your agenda is, please attend the Austin conference. Sit, relax, enjoy the sights, let your hair down, kick up your heels and get to know Austin’s local Dames. Slide into a Texas southern-curated weekend that you will not forget.

See y’all soon!Cheers,Gina Burchenal and Denice Woods

Hello Dames,

The Austin chapter has worked diligently and creatively to present an amazing program for you all. We want to touch base on some of the conference highlights and other events happening that weekend.

Urban Farm Excursion–Hausbar Farms South Congress Avenue Shopping (SoCo).Photos by Nicole Miakar

PREsoRtEdFiRst Classu s PostagE

PaidlouisvillE KYPERmit #1051