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Boaters traverse scenicwaterways of eastern U.S.
BY BOBBYE KENYON
The Great Loophas been described as the
ultimate boating excursion. This mega-mile adventure
affords boaters majestic views from waterways that pair the
past with the present. The journey varies from 5,000 to 7,500
miles depending on the course you plot and will take you to
vibrant cities and quaint towns along a splendid aquatic
trail that circumnavigates eastern North America.
Great Journey, Great Loop
BoatingWorld Fall/Winter 2010
Evan and Pookie Davis at Ellis Island Museum in New York Harbor.
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Evan Davis getting some navigation help from Scruffy, the wire-hair fox terrier that made the journey with him aboard his 25-foot Ranger Tug.
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BoatingWorld Fall/Winter 2010
feature The Great Loop
The Great LoopAdventure
A n individual Great Loopjourney typically beginsand ends at your homeport.
Once you’ve “crossed your wake,”you’ve completed your trip. The itin-erary usually charts an early springcourse around Florida that headsnorth to New York City. The route fol-lows the Intracoastal Waterway(ICW) along the southeasternseaboard of the U.S., with an array ofoptions to discover, including pris-tine barrier islands that dot theGeorgia and Carolina coasts, incredi-ble river channels and estuaries.Traverse Chesapeake Bay, DelawareBay and resume on the ICW fromCape May to Manasquan, N.J. Fromthere, it’s an open 30-mile run acrossthe cobalt-hued Atlantic Ocean toNew York Harbor.
While the New York to Chicagosegment offers a menu of routes thatwind along Canada’s lock-filledcanals and the spectacular vastnessof the Great Lakes, timing this leg is akey ingredient in a well-plannedexcursion. Experienced mariners rec-ommend not venturing on the ErieCanal any earlier than mid-June andavoiding Lake Michigan bySeptember.
Loopers cruise north past spec-tacular New York Harbor, makingtheir way along the Hudson River,past Tarrytown and arriving at theeastern entrance of the Erie Canalwith a trio of directional choices asthey head toward Chicago. Heightrestrictions and lock considerationsplay an important role in this deci-sion-making process. A less popular,although direct, course is the ErieCanal to Lake Erie, then up throughLake Huron to the timeless beauty ofMackinac Island. Traveling along theeast side of Lake Michigan offers thebest passage to the Windy City.
From Chicago, this Great Looptakes a southerly course traveling
down the Illinois River to theMississippi, winding up on the Ohioand Tennessee rivers and eventuallythe Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway.The journey continues down toMobile, Ala. and merges with the ICWgoing east to Carrabelle, Fla. Via theICW, you can take a Fort Myers voy-age and cruise the OkeechobeeWaterway across to Stuart (onFlorida’s east coast), or you can makethe southernmost passage to theFlorida Keys around the tip of thestate and return north to Stuart.
If you don’t have the luxury oftime to enjoy the entire journey, youcan experience just a segment or sidetrip to one of the many stunning riveror lake destinations. Among thefavorite river outings are the St. JohnsRiver with its picturesque vistas ofFlorida’s not-so-tropical locales, andthe Cumberland River, which show-cases historical sites paired with aspectacular Nashville skyline againstthe backdrop of the region’s naturalbeauty. Favored lake passagesinclude Lake Superior, LakeMichigan’s Inland Waterway andSeneca Lake off the Erie Canal.
The LooperLifestyle
M any opt to cruise one areaduring the summermonths, then store their
boat and chart a new course the fol-lowing season, while some Loopersare liveaboards who make the entirejourney in one trip stretched out overmonths at a time. One thing all mem-bers of this cruising clique have incommon is that they relish the spiritof the journey, which is as muchabout camaraderie as it is aboutreaching the intended destination.
America’s Great Loop Cruisers’Association (AGLCA) was formed byRon and Eva Stob (authors of theguide “Honey, Let’s Get a Boat”), aftercruising the Great Loop in 1999. Theywanted to share their navigationaland cruising knowledge so others
could experience an enjoyable andsafe cruise. The AGLCA offers a wealthof information that pertains to a GreatLoop excursion and provides neces-sary facts for first-time, as well asrepeat Loopers. The organization(which boasts a membership of nearly5,000) organizes two rendezvous eachyear to welcome newcomers, renewold friendships and exchange storiesand well-learned lessons. The firstevent is held near Charleston, S.C. inthe spring, while the second is held atJoe Wheeler State Park in Rogersville,Ala. during the fall (this year sched-uled for Oct. 24-27).
Three years ago, the Stobs passedthe AGLCA helm to Steve and JaniceKromer, avid boaters in their ownright with a longtime involvement inthe U.S. Power Squadron inCharleston. Although the Kromers areonly partially “Looped,” they havelogged numerous miles traversing theEast Coast route aboard their 50-footMarine Trader No Sense3 and possessample knowledge about this intrigu-ing “blue interstate” that continues tolure boaters every year. Janice Kromerrecommends that Loopers consider arelaxed cruising format. “Have a gen-eral plan, but not an itinerary. Be flex-ible and open to all the experiencesalong the waterway.”
Preparing forthe Journey
T he advice from experiencedLoopers is to make a check-list prior to your trip, and
make sure the boat is serviced frombow to stern and all onboard elec-tronics are in working order. Ofcourse, timing your trip is an essen-tial element to plotting a memorablevoyage. “Most Loopers start the EastCoast in the spring, spend the sum-mer months along the Canadianwaterways and complete the GulfCoast crossing after Nov. 1,” JaniceKromer explained.
Above all else, do your research.“Start the research early, use the
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BoatingWorld.com
feature The Great Loop
Safety First
Evan and Pookie Davis com-pleted an exciting Great Loopvoyage aboard Pookie II, a 25-
foot Ranger Tug outfitted with a 110hp turbocharged Yanmar dieselengine. They departed Feb. 23, 2009from their homeport — a covered slipat Joe Wheeler State Park Marina inAlabama. After a 5,800-mile voyage,the couple crossed their wake at theentrance to the Tenn-Tom Waterwayon the Tennessee River on Sept. 29,2009. The highlights of the trip, whichtook the couple across Florida viaLake Okeechobee, were many. “Ourfavorite part was the Trent-SevernWaterway in Canada, but it’s reallyhard to choose a favorite,” Evan Davissaid. “Second choices would be thewest coast of Michigan, which hasnumerous delightful small harbors ofrefuge, or Georgian Bay, which is gor-geous.”
While their excursion was relative-ly problem-free mechanically speak-
ing, Mother Nature paid an unexpect-ed visit. “We had no problems otherthan a bilge pump repair in Cape May,but (we experienced) horrible wavesin the North Channel of Lake Huron atMeldrum Bay that were higher thanthe roof of the boat, which is sevenand a half feet above the waterline.”Davis stressed the importance of safe-ty and adequate communication toolsfor first-time Loopers. “Take a Safetyand Seamanship U.S. Coast Guardcourse before you leave home and getan air card — Verizon has better cov-erage — for your computer,” he rec-ommended. “The most dangerousthing to have on the Loop is a sched-ule,” he said, referring to the free-spir-ited Looper nature.
The Davis’ amazing seven-monthadventure was filled with incrediblememories that will last a lifetime.“The jewels of the trip are the newfriends you get to make and keep onthe entire trip,” Davis said.
Internet and visit websites detail-ing the Great Loop experience,”said Lyn Morgan, who successfullycompleted the Great Loop aboardhis 23-foot Premier pontoon boat.Keep proper charts, referencebooks and GPS within easy reach.“Read charts and above all, checkthe NOAA weather forecasts onlinebefore you leave port or anchorageevery day,” said Evan Davis, whotraveled the Loop with his wife,Pookie, aboard their 25-foot RangerTug. “In Canada, NOAA redirectsyou to Weather EnvironmentCanada. Let the weather controlyour schedule, not you.”
More tips from those in theknow: Remember the cell phonecharger and maybe even an extrabattery. Get an adequate numberof life jackets, and toss in someextras, just in case. Don’t forget topack plenty of essentials such assunscreen, insect repellent andraingear.
AGLCA members receive a gold burgee uponcompletion of the Loop. Evan and Pookie Davis ended their 5,800-mile journey at their home port of Joe Wheeler Marina. Inset: Entering Peterborough Lift Lock on Trent-Severn Waterway.
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BoatingWorld Fall/Winter 2010
feature Making the Great Loop
WHITE BLUFF, DEMOPOLIS, AL
Nicolai and Daniels cruised through historicand appropriately-named White Bluff alongthe Tombigbee River.
JAMIE WHITTEN LOCK AND DAM, MS
Jim Daniels inside Whitten Lock, the north-ernmost lock on the Tenn-Tom Waterway.Photo by Kitty Nicolai.
GREEN TURTLE BAY, GRAND RIVERS, KY
Kitty Nicolai launched her 23-footer fromGreen Turtle Bay with the help of fellowCoast Guard Auxiliarist Jim Daniels.
BLACK WARRIOR RIVER, AL
Black Warrior River is the primary tributaryof the Tombigbee River in central Ala. Photoby Kitty Nicolai.
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FALL ROUTES
SPRING ROUTES
SUMMER ROUTES
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BIG
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IVE
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LA
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LAKE SUPERIOR
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RIVER
LAKE ONTARIO
LAKE ERIE
CHICAGO
FORTMYERS
STUART
CARRABELLE
MOBILE
NASHVILLE
BoatingWorld.com
CAPE MAY, NEW JERSEYEVAN AND POOKIE DAVIS
ANNAPOLIS, MARYLANDA favorite stop for AGLCA members
EIFFEL TOWERPARIS, TENNESSEEKITTY NICOLAI
GATEWAY ARCHST. LOUIS, MISSOURIEVAN AND POOKIE DAVIS
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feature The Great Loop
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Lyn Morgan bought his Premier 235S-Series PTX for use on Lake Powell(above). He completed his Great Loopjourney in Tarpon Springs, FL (right).
To learn more about Premier’s PTXpackage, see page 34 for Alan Jones’test of the Premier 250 Intrigue.
Going About
I n May 2002, Bermuda residentGillian Outerbridge shippedher boat stateside to Liberty
Landing Marina, N.J. and launchedthe first of many travel plans.
During the next two years, shesingle-handedly (OK her JackRussell terrier, Tucker, came too)cruised the Rideau Waterway andTrent-Severn Waterway from springthrough fall aboard her Flicka 20-foot sailboat equipped with aYamaha 9.9 four-stroke outboard. “I completed the Rideau Waterwaythat first summer and parked Dartback at Liberty Landing for the win-ter,” Outerbridge explained. “Onmy return, I set off west on theTrent-Severn, reached GeorgianBay and Manitoulin Island. At thispoint, I was behind schedule todrive to the rendezvous atManitoulin. I decided not to carryon around the Loop that year, so Itrailered back to the west end of theErie Canal with the focus on reach-ing Greece. My lifelong dream wasto cruise to Greece in my own boat.This was a modified achievement ofthe dream: Greece, N.Y. not Greece,Greece.”
She chronicled her nearly 1,000-mile summer voyages in the pagesof her book, “Going About! AWaterway Adventure.” “I lovedevery minute, especially the cama-raderie amongst boaters,” she said.Her advice to would-be Loopers isborrowed from the words of Linand Larry Pardey: “Go small, gosimple, go now.” And Outerbridgetook the advice. “That’s what I didand don’t regret a minute. Take theboat you have, the boat you know,and just go!”
This year, LynMorgan com-pleted his inaugu-ral 5,300-mileGreat Loop cruise.Morgan embarked
aboard his Premier 235 S-Series PTXpontoon boat in May at KentuckyLake, Ky. The hull, powered by a 250hp Yamaha, sports a full glass wind-shield along with additional featuresincluding the rough-water package,PTX triple-‘toons for better handlingperformance and an adjustablechair mount.
“Not sure if anyone has done theLoop in a pontoon boat, but thisone is capable,” Morgan wrote in hisblog during the first leg of his jour-ney. “It’s a heavy-duty tri-pontoonboat.” Initially, Morgan intended touse the Premier on a lake. Then hegot the idea for a possible excursiondown the Mississippi. The ideafinally evolved into a Great Loopvoyage some eight months later. “Ihad originally ordered it for use onLake Powell (Utah),” he explained. “Igot interested in a trip going fromMinnesota down the Mississippiand back. Then, (when I thoughtabout) getting all the way down toMobile, it made me realize the pos-
sibilities of the Great Loop trip. Andthat’s when I decided that was whatI wanted to do.”
He completed the eight-week-and-a-day excursion July 17 with a listof incredible memories. “In the begin-ning, it’s seeing America from thewater,” Morgan said. “And crossingthe edge of the Gulf of Mexico withmy friend Fred Martin (Martin board-ed in Carrabelle, Fla. and disem-barked in Fort Myers, Fla.) to TarponSprings (Fla.) was great. It was a 200-mile day … the weather allowed us tocross. We were really going totally byGPS on that crossing.”
Morgan admitted to doing plen-ty of research and encouraged first-timers to do the same. “Don’t take itlightly,” he said. “There are bits andpieces of advice that you need to tai-lor to your conditions dependingupon the type of boat you areusing.” He described his Great Loopadventure as a “combination of adestination and a journey” limitedto a three-month travel window. “Itwas a destination in what to accom-plish with day-to-day goals, while itwas a journey to see the country-side. I took a different approachwith the type of boat I used … it wasmore of an out-there experience.”
NOT YOUR TYPICAL PONTOONER
BoatingWorld Fall/Winter 2010
Outerbridge and Tucker underway aboard Dart.
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Relocation
A fter years of considering aGreat Loop voyage, KittyNicolai took a departure
from the routine journey, makingher dream trip come true via aunique twist from St. Louis toFlorida’s Gulf Coast. The U.S. CoastGuard auxiliarist was moving southand needed to get her boat toHudson, Fla. along the scenic GulfCoast region.
Her years of patrolling the watersfrom Lake Michigan to St. Louis withfellow Aux friend and boating afi-cionado Jim Daniels, promptedNicolai to make a realistic decision
that proved to be the best course ofaction: make the trip via water.Nicolai and Daniels trailered the 23-footer to Green Turtle Bay, Ky. andlaunched from there in June 2008.Although her boat (CG Auxiliary7045) is a vessel of the United Stateswhen under orders, this 1,200-milevoyage was not. She completed thecruise in just two weeks, despite afive-day delay for engine repair atParis Landing, Tenn. When underway, she accomplished her goal of100 miles per day.
While most cruisers have a des-ignated favorite stop on their voy-age, Nicolai admitted there isn’tone on her list. “People make theplace, and 99 percent of the folkswe met along the way weresuperb,” she said. She describedher trip as “unconventional fromthat of most Loopers in that it wason board a smaller boat at a fasterpace. And although the journeywas simply too short and too fast, it will remain one of the highlightsof our lives.”
BoatingWorld.com
feature The Great Loop
After passing through JamieWhitten Lock, the Tenn-Tom Waterwayeventually leads to the White Bluffarea of Ala. Below: Kitty Nicolai spent5 days in Paris Landing, Tenn. whileher engine was repaired.
Know Before You Go
America’s Great Loop Cruisers’Association (AGLCA)500 Oakbrook LaneSummerville, SC 29485 (877) 478-5667, greatloop.org
”Quimby’s 2010Cruising Guide”The Waterways Journal, Inc.319 N. Fourth St., Suite 650 St. Louis, MO 63102 (314) 241-4310, quimbyscruisingguide.com
Books by Ron and Eva Stob“Honey, Let’s Get a Boat: A Cruising Adventure ofAmerica’s Great Loop”“Great Loop Side Trips: 20 Cruising Adventures onEastern North America’sWaterways”
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