Grow it! May 2011

•Troubleshooting•Herb propagation •Patio orchards

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Grow it! May 2011 3

Benedict Vanheems, EditorIn this issue...

Published by: Kelsey Publishing Group,Cudham Tithe Barn, Berry’s Hill,Cudham, Kent TN16 3AGTelephone: 01959 541444

Editorial [email protected] www.growitmag.comEditor | Benedict VanheemsSub editor | Martin OldakerDesigner | Kate Holt www.atgraphicsuk.comPublisher | Stephen Curtis

Friends and contributorsRebecca Wells, Anne Swithinbank, MartynCox, Paul Wagland, Steve Bradley, CharlesDowding, Deborah Schneebeli-Morrell ,Ann Somerset Miles, Jeannine McAndrew,Terry Beebe, Lucy Halliday, Tessa Evelegh,Dave Hamilton, Mike Woolnough,Andy Cawthray, Shannon Denny, AngelaYoungman, Victoria Poolman, Andrew Haynes

AdvertisingAdvertisement Manager: Simone DawsTelephone: 01733 353386Email: [email protected] Director David LerpiniereTelephone: 01959 543507Email: [email protected] Manager | Natasha AustinTelephone: 01733 353386Email: [email protected]

SubscriptionsSave money by taking out a subscription toGrow it! See offer on page 46.

DistributionProblems getting your magazine in theshops? Please contact our distributors,Marketforce, on 0203 1483333, or betterstill, SUBSCRIBE, you know it makes sense!If you would like to sell Grow it! magazine,or help distribute it in your local area,please call Jerry on 01869 325845

PrintingWilliam Gibbons & Sons LimitedWillenhall, West Midlands.Kelsey Publishing GroupGold Winner, Printing and Publishing,National Green Apple Awards 2006 forEnvironmental Best Practice by Commerceand Industry.

Grow it! magazine is printed onenvironmentally accredited paper which issourced from forests managed in keepingwith environmental, economic and socialsustainability standards. The paper isbleached without the use of any chlorinechemicals.

Copyright Kelsey Publishing Group 2011

www.kelsey.co.uk I f there’s any groupthat appreciates theadvantages to be had

from working with nature,it’s the dedicated band ofkitchen gardeners who tendand toil. While Mother Naturesometimes throws somesurprises our way, she’s onthe whole an obliging partner,sending rain and warmth to help cropsgrow, winter frosts to check pests, and abalance of creatures great and small tomaintain the healthy ecosystem on whichour plants depend.

What we’re increasingly realisingthese days is that Mother Nature willhelp us if we just let her. Patience is avirtue that pays off, in gardening terms,as less of a need for pesticides, sound

soil structure and a richer, more vibrantlocal environment. Decades of tinkeringwith nature’s delicate balance has lead tothe deployment of an increasingly potentmix of chemical cocktails as we attemptto keep things artificially on an even keel.Thankfully today’s home grower realisesthat a step back to more organic, wildlife-friendly techniques will pay dividends.

In this issue we examine a number ofways of inviting nature on board to savetime and money while contributing tothe health of local ecosystems. JeannineMcAndrew (see page 52) investigates thegood guys of the productive plot – theaphid-ravenous ladybirds, slug-munchinghedgehogs and caterpillar-crunching bluetits that form a weave of this wholesome

tapestry. She also takes a lookat some of the common pestsand diseases that can be keptin check by inviting these allieson board. Ann Somerset Milesshares her tips for making yourgarden or allotment more bird-friendly (page 49), while AngelaYoungman explains why plantingup your roof (yes, your roof!) could

be the solution to boosting bee numbers inurban areas (turn to page 89).

Natural allies can be found belowground, too, with worms the best-knownsubterranean troopers. As well as ‘digging’the soil for us, worms can turn kitchenscraps into the gardener’s proverbialgold by way of a wormery. You can buy apurpose-made wormery from any of thecatalogues or make your own from an old

dustbin, as Mike Woolnough demonstrates(page 82). And why not make your ownliquid plant feed while you’re at it? Self-sufficiency guru Dave Hamilton’s beendoing this for years and show us how wecan too from page 76. There’s plenty moreadvice in this issue to make the most ofMother Nature’s helping hand, so delvein and transform your plot into a wildlife-friendly, productive haven.

One final note – please turn to page18 for the launch of this year’s Your Plotcompetition. We’ve some superb prizesto be won and with categories for allkitchen gardeners, everyone has a chanceof winning something. I can’t wait to readabout your plots and compare notes!

Editor's welcome

What we’re increasingly realising these days isthat Mother Nature will help us if we just let her

Rebecca WellsOn the allotment, p14

Jeannine McAndrewTroubleshoot tips, p52

Dave HamiltonPlant feeds, p76

Mike WoolnoughCompost kings, p79

4 May 2011 Grow it!

ContentsMay 2011

REGULARS6 WHAT’S NEWAll the latest from the world of kitchengardening, including a sneak preview of thisJuly’s Hampton Court Palace Flower Show,plus the 10 most profitable veg forsmall spaces

8 YOUR SAYShare your top tips, growingsuccesses and horticulturalconundrums through our readers’letters page

10 READER OFFERGot behind on your propagation? Thensend off today for your FREE tomato plantsand fertiliser, plus take advantage of somegenerous offers on fruit and asparagus

14 GROWER’S DIARYRebecca Wells is busy on her allotmentsowing, potting on and planting out readyfor warmer days

18 YOUR PLOT 2011It’s time to launch our hugely popular YourPlot competition for 2011! Start takingphotos now for our July entry deadline

20 ASK ANNEGot a horticultural question or seekingsome ideas? Then put your query toGardeners’ Question Time’s AnneSwithinbank. This month there are tipson windowsill crops, outdoor cucumbers,blown sprouts and stir-fry vegetables

28 COMPETITIONSave valuable time (and your back!) withthis month’s competition. We’ve two sets oflabour-saving devices to give away that willmake life on the allotment that much easier

46 SUBSCRIBE!Subscribe to Grow it! and never miss anissue of your favourite magazine

92 YOUNG GROWERThe salad days are here as Victoria Poolmanshows little green fingers how to grow abucket of healthy, tasty salad

94 IN THE KITCHENLate spring into early summer is asparagusseason. Make the most of this fleeting windowof luxury with three lip-smacking recipes

98 NOTES FROM THEPOTTING SHEDAndrew Haynes ponders what it is aboutgarden open days that us Brits love so much

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FEATURES

8 FOOD FOR THOUGHTGrow it! pays a visit to the very first EdibleGarden Show – a feast of ideas for grow-it-yourself enthusiasts

40 COLD INTENTIt may be warm outside but this isprecisely the time to start off ourwinter crops. Charles Dowdingexplains what needs doing

44 BEANS IN A BASKETTransform an old wicker basket intoan attractive home for productiveFrench beans – delicious!

49 FEATHER THEIR NESTIs your garden as bird-friendly as it couldbe? Ann Somerset Miles shares some tips to

turn your outdoor plot into a haven for ourfeathered friends

52 THE GOOD, THE BADAND THE UGLYGet the balance right betweengarden foe and garden friend.Jeannine McAndrew looks at thecommon suspects, good and bad

57 CURIOUS CUCURBITSRelish the many colours, shapesand textures of squashes andpumpkins. Our grow guide willshow you how to grow them – andget a bumper harvest!

62 HOUSE IN ORDERClear the decks and spruce up the henhouse before summer proper arrives. TerryBeebe talks us through the process

On theCOVER

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Grow it! May 2011 5

Extend your fruit garden onto the patio.Benedict Vanheems looks at container fruittrees for the smallest of spaces

Pack a flavoursome punch with a steadyharvest of peas. City gardener Martyn Coxexplains the best ways of growing them

Paul Wagland’s out on the plot planting alate crop of spuds and building a raised bed.Plus, are allotment chooks right for you?

If you’re hankering after something differentthen Steve Bradley’s greenhouse ocaexperiment is definitely for you

PROTECTYOUR CROPS

GET TO KNOWYOUR FRIENDS

AND ENEMIES INTHE GARDEN

Every issue our team of regular experts revealsthe main jobs for the month along with bags of ideas

14 PAGESOF SEASONAL

ADVICE, TOP TIPSAND EXPERTKNOW-HOWMay

PracticalTheteam

The fruit grower p25 The city grower p29

The organic allotmenteer p33 The under cover grower p36

66 A LEAF LESS ORDINARYFed up with the usual lettuce? LetLucy Halliday tempt you with someof the many other leafy saladsavailable to grow.

70 PROPAGATION STATIONSHerbs are relatively expensive, so bulk upyour collection by mastering someessential propagation techniques

74 SCARE TACTICSShoo away hungry pigeons from yourplot with some stylish bird scarers. TessaEvelegh explains how to make themin her colourful practical project

76 FERTILE GROUNDDon’t fork out on expensive fertilisers,says Dave Hamilton, try making your ownliquid feed – it’s easy!

79 FEED THE EARTHIn the kitchen garden compost is king.Mike Woolnough takes a look at the variouscompost bins available to buy

82 PRACTICAL PROJECTPut worms to work with Andy Cawthray’seasy-to-make wormery and you’ll be well onyour way to producing on-tap, nutrient-richliquid feed plus the richest compost

84 TEA TOTALWe drink enough of it so it’s about time wegrew some of it! Shannon Denny looks at whywe might soon be growing more of our own tea

89 HIGH PROFILEJazz up the allotment shed roof by giving it acloak of vegetation. Angela Youngman findsout why green roofs are taking our rooftopsby storm

•Troubleshooting•Herb propagation •Patio orchards

www.growitmag.com


FREE!SEEDS

IDEAS GALORE!

FREETOMATO PLANTSFOR EVERY

READER*Just pay p&p

Super squashGet ready for a BUMPER CROPwith our comprehensive growing guide

Easy projects:✦ Build a raised bed✦ Plant a tub of beans✦ Make a wormery✦ Design a bird scarer

WINTER VEGPlan ahead for awinter of plenty

Step up your saladsLIVEN UP YOURPLOTWITH

QUICK-GROWINGSALADLEAVES

MAY

2011

£3.6

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Don't miss an issue ofyour favourite magazine!Turn to page 46 now

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ARY

On theCOVER

up

ur

On theCOVER

essa

ers,

On theCOVER

on

On theCOVER

52

On theCOVER

6 May 2011 Grow it!

Edible wonderThe RHS Edible Garden at this July’s Hampton Court PalaceFlower Show is shaping up to be the biggest yet. Featured fruitand veg will include traditional favourites, recent introductions andsome that may be more commonly grown in future. There will also bea ‘food for free’ area, showing plants that can be foraged.

Visitors will be able to explore an exhibit of hops; a living willow arch leading througha fruit and nut orchard; a cider apple orchard; and a natural pond complete with residentgeese. The centerpiece will be a more formal area featuring a fruit cage, ornamentalvegetables, herbs and an edible and medicinal flower border. Exiting this area, visitorswill enter an area showcasing crops from warmer climates which are now more evidentin the UK. Completing the Edible Garden will be a small olive grove and a large tropicalhouse sheltering a jungle of exotic fruit trees and palms. An area of giant vegetables willprovide the final surprise.

The Hampton Court Palace Flower Show runs from 5-10 July. To buy tickets online visitwww.theticketfactory.com/rhs/online or call 0844 3387505. Tickets start at £14.50 for RHSmembers and £18.50 for non-members.

Grow your savingsWith summer in its salad days, many new kitchen gardenerswill be flexing their green fingers for the first time. And withprices for fresh produce set to reach new records for thefifth year in a row, it’s time more of us appreciated just howmuch money growing your own can save.

Seed company Marshalls, for example, has worked outthat a regular packet of its runner beans will sow a single7.5m (25ft) row with a typical yield of 13.6kg (30lbs). Withthe average cost for a regular packet of seeds at £2.85, thatequates to just 21p a kilo! As supermarket prices hit up to£7.50 for the same weight, this makes it 37 times cheaperto grow them yourself. Similar saving can be made withsprouting broccoli (9p a kilo) and mixed salad leaves (just21p per kilo).

be

5-10 JULY 2011HAMPTON

COURT PALACEFLOWERSHOW

TOP 10PROFITABLEVEG1 Runner beans2 French beans3 Salad leaves4 Rocket5 Carrots6 Tomatoes (grafted)7 Aubergines8 Spinach9 Beetroot10 Turnip

Patios of plentyKent-based Victoriana Nurseriesis holding a free ‘patio produce’day on 14 May. Visitors will beable to see container croppingideas and pitch their kitchengardening queries to on-handexperts. A resident bee keeperwill be available to guide thosethinking of getting startedwith bees, while there will beactivities to keep youngstersbusy. Discounts are availableon the day, including 15% offvegetable plants and seeds,and an equal discount on allpotted soft and tree fruits. Thenursery will open from 11am to4pm. For more details visitwww.victoriananursery.co.ukor call 01233 740529.

NEWSSend your news stories to [email protected]

Grow it! May 2011 7

Television personality Pippa Greenwoodhas officially opened the new Hook Crossallotment site in Hook, Hampshire. Newallotmenteers, villagers, the local MP,councillors and well wishers cheered asPippa planted the first apple tree in thecommunity orchard – an old Hampshirevariety, Hambledon Deux Ans (c. 1750) –to mark the opening.

As plot holders took possession ofthe allotment site, they learnt that theassociation has also been awarded a BigLottery Fund grant of £10,000 to helpwith the allotment build. Anyone wantingto learn more about the Hook AllotmentAssociation can visitwww.hookallotments.com

READER OFFER

Pippa digs in

Gardeners’ goldUrine is full of valuable nutrients which,if used correctly, can be of enormousbenefit in the garden. Use it to speed up thecomposting process or dilute it to create a safeand effective liquid feed. Despite its advantages,collecting urine can sometimes prove a messy andunpleasant business but a new watering can-come-chamber pot could be the answer. The Peecan hasarrived from Sweden and is available from onlinestore www.evergreener.com Costing £60,each Peecan includes a lid to contain anywhiffs and prevent your personal liquid feedfrom sloshing about.

Tickets pleaseIn the March issue (see‘What’s new’, page 7) wereported the launch of a newkitchen gardening show atLoseley Park near Guildford,Surrey. The Grow Your OwnShow will run over the MayDay bank holiday on 1-2 May.As well as demonstrations,edible show gardens andtalks, visitors will be able tofind out more about cookingtheir produce, the joysof poultry, and bee andpig keeping.

We’ve teamed up with The Grow Your Own Show tobring readers a two-for-one ticket offer. Simply buy one £10adult entry tickets in advance and you’ll receive anothercompletely free! Call the booking office on 01483 444789and choose option one. Quote Grow it!to receive thediscount. For more details on the show visitwww.thegrowyourownshow.co.uk

A competition run by charity Garden Organic to encouragepeople to share their passion for compost has met a keenresponse. The ‘Celebrate Compost’ competition calledon gardeners to put their love for compost on paper bydesigning a poster to urge more of us to make our own forCompost Awareness Week. The competition saw over 70entries across all age groups.

In the 8-11 years category, the pupils of East OxfordPrimary School channelled their efforts to create a fantastic

collage. Winner of the 12-17 yearscategory, Orla Kenny, produceda beautiful hand-drawnillustration of the compost heap,and winner of the adults 18and over category, J Shergold,created a photo montage(pictured) to celebrate thelovely brown stuff. The winningposter will be displayed on theGarden Organic, CommunityComposting Network andRecycle Now websites duringCompost Awareness Week,which runs from 1 May.

SHOESTRINGSELF-SUFFICIENCYKitchen gardening should savemoney but that doesn’t stopall those ‘essential’ gardeninggadgets from chipping away atyour budget. That’s where a newbook from Grow it!’s very ownDave Hamilton comes in handy.Dave’s book Grow Your Foodfor Free (Well Almost) detailsnumerous money-saving tips tohelp you grow for less. Crammedwith practical projects, the bookcovers topics such as how to raise,harvest and store plants whilerecycling and reusing materialscreatively. You can get hold of acopy from Green Books (01803863260, www.greenbooks.co.uk).

Celebrate compost

● Turn to page 76 forDave’s tips on makingyour own plant feeds

8 May 2011 Grow it!

Show review

The brand new Edible Garden Show,launched in March, proved a hit amonghome growers hungry for ideas. Growit! went along to seek some inspiration

Foodfor thought

1 VEGGY TABLEThose bombarded by slugs willlove this tabletop veg garden fromVeggyTables – not even the mostdetermined mollusc would be ableto scale to these lofty heights! TheVeggyTables on display at the showranged in height from 45cm (18in) to90cm (36in). With a generous depthof 20cm (8in), they’d be suitable forsalads and courgettes. Add on anoptional extension kit to doublethe depth for the likes of potatoesand root veg.Contact: 01271 817533,www.veggytables.co.uk

2 SEEDY BUSINESSNeedless to say the show presentedample opportunity to top up seedstores – complete with first-handgrowing tips. Here Tony Ward ofKings Seeds offers a visitor someideas for container crops. Likemany companies, over the past few

years Kings Seeds has seen a shiftaway from flower seeds towardsvegetable and herb seeds.Contact: 01376 570000,www.kingsseeds.com

3 SHOP TALKTelevision presenter James Wongwooed the audience in the Experts’Theatre. James’ talk, entitled‘Incredible Edibles’, encouragedus to try out less-ordinary cropsinstead of the staples we can buy socheaply in the shops. For example,in place of potatoes try exoticsweet potatoes; swap inexpensiveonions with pricey saffron; or ditchtwo-a-penny cabbage for the feistyJapanese crop wasabi. Getting morebang for your gardening buck wasthe moral of his talk!

4 QUESTION TIMEThe show attracted popular BBC Radio4 programme Gardeners’ QuestionTime which was recorded from

Gardening and food lovers turned out in theirthousands for the UK’s first-ever nationalevent for grow-it-yourselfers – The Edible

Garden Show. The show was held at Warwickshire’sStoneleigh Park from March 18-20, with more than10,000 visitors looking for ideas for their home plots.

The Edible Garden Show marks a groundbreakingchange in the public’s perception of food productionand eating habits. Its arrival has been welcomed byexperienced growers, budding kitchen gardenersand families keen to join the unstoppable grow-your-own revolution sweeping the country. With its mixof celebrity gardeners, chefs, experts and kitchengardening exhibitors, there was plenty to whet theappetite of all enthusiasts. Here’s a roundup of someof the show highlights.

Young gardeners join in the funat The Edible Garden Show

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Grow it! May 2011 9

Stoneleigh on the opening day withEric Robson and the GQT panel– Pippa Greenwood (pictured),Bob Flowerdew and our very ownAnne Swithinbank. The show wasbroadcast at the end of March.

5 ANIMAL FARMWith chickens, pigs and goatsto admire, the SmallholderMarquee was the place to be forthose seeking advice on keepinganimals, with experts on hand toguide and encourage.

6 TALL ORDERThe world’s largest garden spademade an appearance at theshow. Manufactured in the UKby Bulldog Tools, it stands 3.61m(12ft) tall, weighs 180kg and took160 hours to make. The spadebeat the previous world record bya clear half metre.Contact: 01279 401572,www.bulldogtools.co.uk

7 GRAB YOUR BAGSHow about this novel approach tosetting up grow bags? The GrowBag Holder clamps bags intoplace for a tidier, easier-to-move,space-saving alternative. Thebags sit on their sides, ensuringdeeper root growth and betterdrainage. The holders can bestacked to create a stunningedible (or ornamental) display.Contact: 01256 896301,www.kakoi.co.uk

8 GOURMET SILLSEven if you don’t have a veggiepatch you’ll at least have awindowsill to grow a few greens.Sow Gourmet demonstrated theirrange of microgreens raised onspecial compostable grow pads.They offer a monthly subscriptionservice, with a new gourmet greendelivered to your door at the startof each month.Contact: www.sowgourmet.co.uk

9 SQUARE MEALIdeal for those with only a tinyoutdoor space is the conceptof the square metre garden.Higrow demonstrated how acompact bed can give allmanner of tasty leaves, spudsand roots. The kit pictured hereincludes the wooden surround,nine 15-litre grow sacks completewith peat-free growing medium,and an assortment of seeds – allfor £39.99.Contact: 01482 782400,www.squaremetregardening.co.uk

10 FIELD REPSRepresentatives from theNational Society of Allotment& Leisure Gardeners (NSALG)were on hand to give a flavourof life on the allotment field witha series of raised beds plantedup with seasonal favourites.The Society represents theallotment movement in the UK,

offering a range of benefits tomembers, including practicaland legal advice.Contact: 01536 266576,www.nsalg.org.uk

11 BUSY BEESBees are essential to ourlivelihoods, pollinating 71 ofthe 100 crop species that provide90% of food worldwide. InEurope 4,000 vegetable varietiescontinue to exist thanks topollination by bees. The BritishBeekeepers’ Association’sstand explained why bees areso important and some of thenectar-rich plants we can grow tosustain honey bees. Bee-friendlyspringtime shrubs on displayincluded the likes of mahonia,viburnum, rhododendronand forsythia, all creating acolourful scene.Contact: 024 7669 6679,www.britishbee.org.uk

Next year’sEdible Garden Showwill take place at Stoneleigh

Park, Warwickshire, fromMarch 16-18, 2012. For moreinformation about the showvisit: www.theediblegarden

show.co.uk

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Offer 1: Asparagusgrow kit Enjoydelicious, tenderasparagus spears cutdirectly from your ownpatio. These asparaguscrowns are supplied withtwo re-usable 60-litre

bags making them perfect for growing insmall spaces such as a balcony or terrace.Get hold of three asparagus crowns and agrowing bag for just £9.99.

Offer 2: Citruspatio treesLemon and orangetrees make decorativepot plants all year round.Kept indoors fromOctober and on a patioin summer, they will set

fruit from August – just in time for addingto your summer cocktails! Buy either apotted orange tree or a potted lemontree for £9.99, or order one of each for£14.98 and save £5.

HOW TO ORDERTo order send the completedorder form to: Grow it! FREETomato kit, Dept GROW3, PO Box99, Sudbury, CO10 2SN. Pleasemake cheques payable to ‘TMYP’and remember to write your fullname and address, includingpostcode, on the back of yourcheque. Do not send stampsor cash. Only one applicationper reader. Alternatively callthe credit card hotline on 08445732020 (minimum order value fortelephone orders £10), quotingreference ‘GROW3’. (OPEN Mon-Sun 9am – 8pm).

Plants and special offer items will bedespatched from April 2011. Deliveryto UK addresses only and offer closes31/05/11. Please note that your contractfor supply of goods is with T&M (YP)Ltd. (terms and conditions availableon request). All offers are subject toavailability.

FREE tomato plants,fertiliser and basilseeds worth over £15!

Reader offer

For sweetness without thecalories grow your own gourmettomatoes! Tomato ‘Tomazing’ is an

outstanding variety which produces anenormous crop of up to 500 sweet andjuicy, bite-size fruits per plant. Providingan endless supply of prolific orange fruit,it simply out flavours and outclassesevery other tomato.

Along with five tomato plants, eachcollection also includes 100g of specialtyfertiliser to help achieve the best crops,as well as a packet of basil seed – afavourite with cooks and gardenersalike and the perfect complement totomatoes. This collection is worth morethan £15 but is yours for just £4.50 tocover postage! And why not try someof these other special offers.

Offer 3:Raspberry all-season collectionIndulge in freshraspberries fromlate June right theway through to midOctober with these

British-bred varieties. Our collectioncomprises three canes of early-season‘Glen Moy’ and three canes of mid-season‘Glen Ample’ for the special price of £13.99.

Offer 4:Rhubarb ‘Fulton’sStrawberrySurprise’Strong, vigorousrhubarb plantsproduce flushes ofvivid red stems that

make delicious pies and crumbles.Order one plant for £9.99 or buy two for£19.98 and we'll throw in another plantcompletely free of charge!

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Title ..............................Initial .............................. Surname.......................................................................

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CODE PRODUCT DESCRIPTION PRICE QTY TOTAL

92481 3 Asparagus crowns + 1 grow bag £9.99

4398 Patio orange tree x 9cm plant £9.99

3850 Patio lemon tree x 9cm plant £9.99

3883 Citrus collection (one lemon and one orange ) £14.98

86902 Raspberry full-season collection (6 canes) £13.99

84683 Rhubarb ‘Fulton’s Strawberry Surprise’ 1 plant £9.99

85863 Rhubarb ‘Fulton’s Strawberry Surprise’ 2 plants + 1 FREE £19.99

88077 FREE: 5 Tomato plants, fertiliser and seed FREE* 1 [ ] tick *£4.50One application per reader postage

GROW3 TOTAL £

I enclose a cheque for £ ______________ made payable to ‘TMYP’ with my name andaddress on the back.

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12 May 2011 Grow it!

Write to us, with a picture if possible, at Grow it!,Kelsey Publishing, Cudham Tithe Barn, Berry’s Hill, Cudham,Kent TN16 3AG. Alternatively email: [email protected]

Your say

I found an abandoned golf caddie on my allotment site andon further enquiries found that it was going to the local refusecentre. Not wanting to see it go towaste I asked if I could keep it anddecided to try and find a use forit. Ten minutes later it struck methat it would be perfect for movinggrow bags from the plot to mygreenhouse at home. We are a one-car family and I always walk to andfrom the plot through the village.I did get a few funny looks but it’sbetter than carrying the grow bag!F Simpson, Manchester

Editor replies:What an excellentidea. Have any other readers gotrecycling tips?

Carried away

This month’s star letterwins a strawberry tub fromTwo Wests and Elliott.

STARLETTER

✪

✪

Drop us aline and share your

growing stories,advice, questions

and opinions

Wayward vegI have been an admirer of yourmagazine for several years andwanted to let you know howimpressed I was with your recentJanuary issue, especially theinformative article on potatoes.I’m concerned, though, that yourmagazine is going down market, asindicated by the ‘Beet that!’ letteron page 11. It would appear thatyou are now inviting readers to takepictures of root vegetables – I thinkwe all know where this will lead...

As for donating a whole fourpages to Brussels sprouts – doyou not know that nobody, andI mean nobody, likes Brusselssprouts... or wants to grow them!

Please can you reassure us thatthe magazine will maintain itsnormal high standards and remaina prized and treasured read?

A Bard, no address supplied

Editor replies: Fear not Mr Bard,your favourite read will certainlybe maintaining its standards. Withregards your aversion to Brusselssprouts, perhaps you’re boilingthem for too long? Six minutesin the minimum of boiling saltedwater is more than enough. Orhave you tried sautéing them withbacon or chorizo? Please givethem another try!

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Top tomatoesLike many gardeners, I love my tomatoes andgrow at least three plants every year. Yourtomato article ‘Home sweet home’ (April 2011issue, page 40) certainly provided some niftyideas for growing this year’s crop. The strawbale technique seems ingenious, but as I’monly growing a handful of plants I’ll be tryingthe double grow bag plus ring culture ideayou pictured.

This year I’ve chosen a couple of noveltyvarieties to brighten up summertime salads.As well as the yellow ‘Sungold’, which is meantto have an exceptionally sweet taste, I’m alsotrying the stripy ‘Red Zebra’. My small four by sixgreenhouse keeps plants safe from blight and asI normally start seeds off at the end of Februarythere’s usually something to pick by the start ofJuly. I can’t wait to see how the extra root spaceafforded by the two-bag system pays off.

J Matthews, Bristol

Child’s playI was interested to read of the RHS launching a plan todevelop school gardens – numbers of which, I imagine,are not great. When I was at grammar school (many yearsago!) we had an area of land beside the school divided intosmall plots of about 14 foot square, each plot allocated totwo pupils to maintain. We also had a pond containing fishand other creatures. Unfortunately, since that time the areahad to be used to extend the school buildings, so I imaginegardening is no longer practiced there. B Finn, Kent


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011133 Eraza_Grow_It.indd 1 31/03/2011 12:19GI May 11 Westland.indd 2 06/04/2011 15:44


Grower's diary

Isn’t this the most exciting time ofyear? On Christmas morning whenthe children were little (and, let’s

face it, Christmas morning makes littlechildren of most of us) the excitedcry would go up ‘He’s been! He’sbeen!’ as they made out the bulgingstocking at the end of their beds in

Rebecca Wells is making the most of warmer, sunnier days to sowand pot on her summer staples. With growing conditions improvingand things moving fast, Rebecca’s full of the joys of spring

the early morning light. I feel thatexcitement now as I survey the scenein the greenhouse at the bottom of thegarden every morning.

Donning outdoor shoes with mydressing gown and with the first mugof tea in my hand, I slide back the doorto examine anew the bent stems andfirst leaves of the seedlings as they pushthrough the compost. Of course, it’s toomuch to hope that more have grownovernight since I checked all the traysthe previous evening, but it’s the thrill ofspotting the first signs of germination.Each year I marvel at the conversion oftiny grain to plant. I hope this wonderand joy never leaves me.

Greenhouse residentsThe first sowing of tomatoes has nowmade it to stage three of the process.Started off in the propagator on thekitchen windowsill, they go down tothe home greenhouse where they arepricked out into 9cm pots. Tomatoesroot up their stems, so I always prickthem out deeper than they had grown,so that the leaves are just above soillevel. This makes for stronger plants

better able to take up nutrients becausethey have a larger root system. I will dothe same when they go into their finalgrowing positions.

The individual pots are put intorecycled polystyrene fish boxes whichoffer an extra layer of insulation in theunheated greenhouse. Here I can easilynurture and protect them with fleeceeach night. Now I need the space in thehome greenhouse for later sowings sothe good, sturdy tomato plantlets aremoved, still in their fish boxes, down tothe allotment greenhouse. It’s the plantversion of nursery school because I amless able to check them twice a day. Thechillies, sweet peppers and aubergineswere sown at the same time but areslower than tomatoes. They too havenow been pricked out but, still as tinyplants, remain in the home greenhouse.

This doesn’t mean that thepropagator has been put away. It’s fullof small pots of later or slower seeds,including several different half-hardyannuals such as morning glory andbells of Ireland, plus some moreunusual perennials, such as a very darkdieramma and some rather special

joy!Springtime

Early morning inthe greenhouse

– no betterplace to be!

The young tomato plants enjoy addedprotection from their fishboxes

Grower's diary

Grow it! May 2011 15

mine off already. Three tubers were putinto large black plastic tubs and coveredwith a layer of compost. I shall add toit as the haulms appear and we lookforward to enjoying the new potatoeswith melted butter – mmmm!

Flower powerRegular readers will know I like to growflowers on my allotment, partly becausethey look pretty and allow me to cutflowers, and partly to attract beneficialinsects and birds which will, in turn,help me to deal with pests. This yearI have sown pinches of annual seedinto modules in colour-coded mixes(remember, I am a garden designer!).I thought that orange pot marigold‘Neon’ would look rather good with bluecornflowers and a very dark blue love-in-a-mist which has spectacular maroon

seedpods. The lacy white-floweredorlaya has been put in with an almostblack opium poppy and, in another tray,I’ve included the pretty Brizia maxima(quaking grass), with the cornflower andnigella mix.

Orlaya was much used at Chelseatwo years ago and I don’t see why myallotment shouldn’t look as chic. Somewill be planted in rows or patchesbetween other crops, others will go intothe cutting garden in spaces betweenthe perennial plants, and others will gointo new beds we hope to cut out on theorchard and where I am keen to havemore pollinator-attracting plants. I havealready taken the first allotment-grown,hand-tied bunch to friends in Somerset.I was able to pick some pittosporum andeuphorbia as foliage to go with somegrape hyacinths and white hyacinthswhich I had in pots inside one year andplanted out when they were over. Theycome up year after year.

Orchard hopesTalking of the orchard allotment, thelast of the winter pruning has beencompleted and the buds on the fruit

named varieties of aquilegia. Oftenthese plants are tremendously difficultto source and the only way to havethem is to grow from seed. I am alsotrying Lysimachia ‘Beaujolais’, a fantasticperennial which I’ve found very tricky togerminate. I have tried for several yearsrunning and have decided that, if theydon’t grow this year, I shall throw in the(horticultural) towel.

Hardening and sowingThe home greenhouse, now with somespace freed up, has taken those seedswhich do not need the bottom heatprovided by the propagator. I spentmost of a glorious Sunday movingtrays outside to harden off and sowingthe next batches. I have constructeda cloche to run over the whole of oneof the raised salad beds at the bottomof the garden. This cloche has twopurposes: I can use it as a hardening-offspace but also to allow me to extendmy season with protected early crops.Already small lettuce plants, sown andgrown on in the greenhouse, have beenplanted out. I look forward to harvestingthe first of the summer salad leaves laterin May.

In between them is a row or two of‘French Breakfast’ radish. I have sownother salad crops, such as spinachand two types of salad leaf mixturesin modules in the greenhouse. I’m notsure yet what the difference betweenTuscan and Provençal leaves will be butI’m sure that they will both be delicious.Spring onions are up and beetroot,sown as multiples in modules, havegerminated already. I’ve never triedgrowing beetroot like this but MontyDon suggested it in the first of this year’sGardeners’ World programmes so Ithought I’d try it. It’s nice to have youback, Monty!

I brought home six ‘Accent’ seedpotatoes from the seed-swapping dayI helped at last month and these havebeen chitting nicely. We love waxy,first early potatoes but don’t bother to

grow any others.On a largeallotment fieldlike ours blight isa problem and,anyway, I needthe space forother things. Welike to grow ourearly potatoesin tubs at homeaway from dangerand I have started

Above: The spectacular duskylove-in-a-mist Nigella damascena;Left: The first allotment bouquetof the year.Below left: Chitted ‘Accent’potatoes ready for their pots

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Grower's diary

trees have almost burst. The pears comefirst with the quince and the plumsfollowing closely behind. Lastly comethe apples, usually after the mid-MayFranklin nights when we, in Devon, canbe sure there will be no more frosts.From the buds I can see it should beanother really good fruit year. We hadalways planned to have fattening henson the orchard and laid out the treesaccordingly, leaving us a good space inthe middle for their run. We are alreadyso busy with various projects this year,however, that I can see that meat-henraising will have to be postponed. But inthe meantime, what to do with the space?

Pumpkins and winter squash are avegetable we love, lasting well throughthe colder months and forming a vitaminand mineral-rich basis for stews, curriesand soups. The space at the centre ofthe orchard will make a grand pumpkinpatch, where the more vigorous plantscan romp away to their hearts’ content.Andrew and I have spread a sheet ofstout black plastic, weighted down withlogs, over the grass. Later we will get oldcar tyres from the garage which we willfill with good compost and into whichwe will plant the pumpkins. I think it willall look rather splendid and the schemehas the added advantage of cuttingdown on the grass mowing there.

Things a-stirringOn the main allotments everythingis really stirring. We still have a fewparsnips and brassicas hanging onbut, as the latter start to go to seed,the hens are more than happy to have

the plants. The new year’s crops havestarted and we’ve already enjoyed someof our rhubarb. We inherited severalcrowns when we took the allotment on. Idon’t know what variety we have but it’salways much earlier than others aroundus, even without forcing it. Perhaps wehave ‘Timperley Early’.

The beds that have been emptyover winter have now been dug andmanure distributed where needed.Most beds have been covered withblack plastic in order to warm themand to stop rain leaching out thenutrients. I was pleased to see howwell this system had worked when Icame to plant out my broad beansand mangetout peas, peeling justenough of the plastic sheet back togive me the room I need and leavingthe rest for the runner beans to beplanted out later.

The recent gloriously warm sunnydays have faded the memories of theharsh winter. Meals have been takenoutside and everyone seems to have aspring in their step and a smile on theirfaces. The allotment car park is regularlyfull as activity on the field increases. Youmay think that I have been precipitantand perhaps even foolhardy in rushinginto early sowing and pricking out. Whyall the rush? Well, at one of the busiesttimes of the year allotment-wise myhusband Andrew and I will be in Yorkshirebuilding a garden with and for ourdaughter Kate and her partner Chris. I’ve

had to decide to wait or to take the riskwith seedlings. Fingers crossed! We haveallowed only a week to complete the jobso it will feel a little like Ground Force. Ileave it up to you to decide who is AlanTitchmarsh and who is Charlie Dimmock!

The recent gloriously warm sunny days havefaded the memories of the harsh winter

✓ Make sure youproperly hardenoff young plantsbefore setting themoutside into their finalpositions. Dependingon where you live therisk of frost will havepassed from as earlyas the first week ofMay to as late as mid

June in parts of Scotland.

✓ To ease the transition tooutside for tender plants,drape a layer or two of fleeceover them after planting. Keepthis in place for a week or twountil they are settled.

✓ Warmer weather bringsrenewed weed growth. Hoeregularly picking a fine, dry dayso the uprooted weeds quicklyshrivel away.

✓ Taller varieties of broadbeans may need somesupport. Use string stretchedbetween corner canes to keepthem from flopping over.

✓✓

profbeoupoonripaasMa

Rebecca's tips

The pumpkin patch awaits

Our rhubarb is one of the earliest on the field

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Competition ✦ Competition ✦ Competition ✦ Competition ✦ Competition Competition

It’s that time of year again – the launchof the kitchen gardening world’s mostprestigious competition! The ‘Your Plot

2011’ competition promises to showcasethe very best productive plots fromacross the country, giving you the chanceto show us why you’re justly proudof your kitchen garden, patio plot orallotment.

We love reading about your successes,challenges and achievements, so we’rehoping to make this year’s competitionthe biggest yet. Your Plot 2011 hasthree categories: best overall plot, bestcontainer/raised bed plot and bestallotment plot, with prizes to be wonfor each. Everyone and anyone can getinvolved, whether you’ve just started outor are a well-weathered expert. And itdoesn’t matter how large or small yourproductive space is – we want to seeeverything!

Last year’s standard of entries wasexceptional. Our overall winner, BarbaraJannsen, wowed us with a zoned plotincorporating raised beds of allotmentstaples and exotics, a fruit garden and apolytunnel bursting with heat-loving crops.

Best allotment plot went to Sylvia Jameswhose energetic enthusiasm transformed anunloved plot into a hive of activity in just fivemonths. And if you thought you neededlots of space to grow food then you’d havebeen more than inspired by our container/raised bed plot winner Vee Wilkinson; herfirst-floor balcony of edibles would putmany terrestrial kitchen gardens to shame!Take a look at these pictures from last year’sentrants to whet your appetite.

Inspiration and shared experiencesis what the Your Plot competition is allabout, so write in and tell us about yourown productive plot. Tell us how it gotstarted, a little about its laid out, what youare growing and a few of your proudestachievements. We’ll be taking a detailedlook at the cream of entries in an autumnissue of Grow it!, so this is your chance toshare your green-fingered exploits withother readers.

So don’t delay – start taking picturesof your plot as it bursts into life now. Youhave until the end of July to take furtherpictures and get your entries in. We can’twait to see your plots and hear what makesthem tick. Good luck!

The burgeoningbalcony of VeeWilkinson

Barbara Jannsen’s packed polytunnelhelped make her last year’s winnerInset right: A horn of plenty, courtesyof Barbara Jannsen

CALL FOR ENTRIESWe want to nosearound your kitchengarden! Write inand tell us all aboutyour productive plotand you could win agenerous horticulturalspending spree


Best overall plot:This year’s overall

Your Plot 2011 victor can look forward to anextravagant spending spree at top horticulturalsundries supplier Harrod Horticultural. Thewinner will be able to spend £500 on allmanner of goodies to make their plot evenbetter – a tempting proposition indeed.Harrod Horticultural stocks a wide varietyof kit for the growing enthusiast, so the oneproblem our winner will have is deciding whatto spend their prize fund on! Whether you’reafter gardening accessories, pest controls ortools, Harrod Horticultural has it covered. Formore details on their range visit their websiteat www.harrodhorticultural.comor give them a call on 0845 4025300.

Best container/raised bed plot:

The winner of the best container/raised bed plotwill win a £250 shopping experience courtesy ofgardening tools and growing solutions providerBurgon & Ball. Burgon & Ball sells a range ofhandsome Home Allotment patio plantingbags, accessories, labels and harvestingequipment to help you make the most of yourspace. For details of their range visitwww.burgonball.com or call them on 0114 2338262.

Best allotment plot:For the best allotment plot winner we’veteamed up with quality garden toolsmanufacturer Bulldog Tools to stock up thetool shed. All Bulldog’s tools are hand-forgedhere in Britain from a unique specification steelfor strength and durability. The best allotmentplot winner can look forward to receiving£250-worth of Bulldog tools. To find a stockistnear you or for further details of Bulldog Toolsvisit: www.bulldogtools.co.uk orphone 01279 401572.

Competition Competition ✦ Competition ✦ Competition ✦ Competition ✦ Competition

HOW TO ENTERTo enter the Your Plot 2011 competition simply send us no more than five picturesof your kitchen garden plot and a maximum of 250 words to describe how you gotit under way, its layout, what you grow, how you grow it and why you are proud ofyour plot. Take pictures from now and as your plot reaches its peak of productivityto show it at its best. If you are using a digital camera then take your pictures at thehighest possible quality setting (5+ megapixels) so we can use them to a good sizewithin the magazine. We will feature the best entries in an autumn issue.

Post your entries to: Grow it! Your Plot Competition, Kelsey Publishing Group,Cudham Tithe Barn, Berry’s Hill, Cudham, Kent TN16 3AG. Alternatively emailthem to: [email protected] Don’t forget to include your name and contact details.The closing date for entries is 31st July 2011.

Prizes to be won...

Right: SylviaJames’ allotmentplot was bare five

months earlier!

Above: BusyDevon mum

Maxine Lawrencegets her children

involved

Below: Earlysummer on

Linda and DavidWillox’s Essex

allotment

ENTER NOW!PRIZES WORTH

£1,000TO BE WON


Anne Swithinbank, one of Britain’s favourite gardenersand a member of Radio Four’s Gardeners’ Question Timepanel, answers your growing questions.

AskAnneYOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Right on cue

parallel horizontals. I then stretch somenetting over the frame and tie in well.The soil in front of the supports is slightlyraised and well conditioned with plentyof well-rotted compost. Towards theend of May or beginning of June, sowtwo seeds per station, put your favouriteslug deterrent in place – I use ferricphosphate-based pellets – and wait forgermination. If the weather turns cold atnight, pop a cut down lemonade bottlecloche over the seeds or seedlings asprotection (best remove by day in casethey cook). Thin to one per station andlet them grow.

I don’t own a greenhouse or cold frame, so everything Igrow on my allotment has to be hardy. I love cucumbersand wondered if there’s a variety tough enough to survivethe great outdoors? M Eglesham, Shropshire

While indoor cucumbers are long,slender and just like shop ones, outdoorkinds have a character all their own. Mostare shorter, fatter, sometimes slightlyspiny and blessed with a much moreinteresting taste and texture. So yes,you can enjoy home-grown cucumbersoutdoors in Shropshire.

First buy seed of an outdoorvariety like ‘Burpless Tasty Green’ or‘Marketmore’. Next, what I do is builda 1.2m (4ft)-high climbing frame out ofhazel poles (bamboo canes would befine) and twine. I usually grow four plants,so set one upright per plant at 30cm(12in) intervals and lash on two or threeRO

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I don’t think you can overdo this, aslong as you observe the usual rules ofapplying any material in a thin layer,alternating wet soggy material withcoarse, stemmy ingredients. If you’reshort of stem, a bale of straw mightbalance things up. Coffee grounds aregenerally held to be neutral (rather thanalkaline or acidic) as most of the acidityis lost when the coffee is brewed.They contain nitrogen, calcium andmagnesium and some folk even use

them loose and uncomposted to deterslugs and cats.

The major problem with teabags is the bag, as many are madeof polypropylene and are notdecomposable. I can’t imagine yousitting there ripping holes in umpteenbags before putting them out. Theonly answer is to persuade the officeto switch to biodegradable ones. Ora giant teapot. It’s true I often findthe odd bag in my well-rotted garden

compost, though we brew most of ourtea from loose leaves. After making abatch of compost, you could alwaysdo a soil pH test to make sure it hasnot become unduly acidic from theteabags.

Office compostI collect compostable waste from my office. There areabout 30 of us – which makes for a lot of coffee groundsand tea bags over the course of a week! Is it possible to addtoo much of this to my compost heap? I’m concerned itmight lose its balance. K Turner, Aberdeenshire


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Indoors, you’d be mad not to include a year-round supply of basil. I would buy supermarketpot-grown basil, which I usually keep for a fewmonths at a time. Harvesting it regularly by takingwhole shoots and feeding every fortnight willkeep growth coming. You can try potting it ontoo. Chilli peppers also love a windowsill and youcan keep plants through the winter for anotheryear by trimming in autumn, holding back slightlyon the water during winter and then pruning a bitharder in spring.

Outdoors, a generous window box is idealfor all the cut-and-come-again salad crops,especially during winter when other crops mightstruggle. ‘Tumbler’ tomatoes, strawberries andparsley would be good too. Again, supermarketpotted parsley is great. Cut it initially then let itsprout, take it out of the pot, divide it into aboutsix clumps and plant them out. Then you couldhave a pot with a French bean and another with afew ‘Early Nantes’ carrots. To keep a succession,germinate the carrots in 9cm (4in) pots fromFebruary (indoors) to July. Grow them on as acluster then plant them into the containers to

finish off. Try similar things with beetroot. Checkout wall planters like the Woolly Pocket(www.woollypocket.com) to use the walls as well.Sweet potatoes maybe? Soon, you’ll be writing abook on it!

I expect you’ve tried some of the Oriental cut-and-come-again spicy leafmixtures. These contain pak choi, Chinese broccoli and kale, mustards, mizunaand all kinds of tasty leaves to use as salads or to show very briefly to the wokor frying pan. If you have plenty of bed space, they grow fast in wide drills atthis time of the year, or will grow equally well in polythene-lined crates in 10cm(4in) of compost.

It’s too late now to sow sweet or chilli peppers, but there should be plantsfor sale and as long as there is no more likelihood of frost, they can stand out inpots on a sunny patio. ‘Lany’ is one of the best sweet peppers I’ve grown but Ialso like long-fruited kinds like ‘Big Banana’. But if it’s unusual flavours you want,how about Florence fennel – which is sown now. Or lemon grass, although thiswill need the warmth of a greenhouse or conservatory in winter. Corianderis easy sown direct to the top of a large pot of compost now. Chives I‘d sowinto a pot first, transplant to a tray and then plant out. Hardy and perennial,you should have them forever. Try ‘Chopsuey Greens’ from Chiltern Seeds(01229 581137, www.chilternseeds.co.uk), which are an aromatic member of thechrysanthemum family.

Exotic tastesIn a bid to liven up my stir-fries I’m looking to growsome hot and spicy additions – perhaps something thatwon’t take up lots of space but will carry lots of flavour.Have you got any suggestions? W Matthews, Norfolk

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Window wondersI love reading Grow it! while I wait (very patiently!) for anallotment plot to become available. In the meantime I havenothing more than a windowsill to play with. Can yourecommend suitable vegetables fora sunny sill – both indoors and out?T Peacock, London

Write in with yourquestions for Anne to:Ask Anne, Grow it!, KelseyPublishing, CudhamTithe Barn, Berry’s Hill,Cudham, Kent TN16 3AG.Alternatively email:[email protected]

AskAnneYOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED


If your tree is still ornamental and you enjoy its shape, formand blossom, there is some merit to hanging on to it for a bitlonger. Ways of improving its health would include feeding it(a slow-release or controlled release fertiliser over the rootswould be best) and if possible, a mulch of well-rotted compostor other soil conditioner over the root area. An interesting,more sustainable approach to feeding would be to grownitrogen-fixing plants such as wild lupin under the canopy.For potash, grow a clump of comfrey nearby (Symphytum xuplandicum or Russian comfrey is sterile and won’t spreadby seed) and apply the cut plant as a mulch. This is a forestgarden approach and you can read a lot more about it inCreating A Forest Garden by Marin Crawford.

The other point worth noting is that apples usually need

a pollinator nearby. This could be the other apple if it is inthe same group (flowers at a similar time). If not, maybe it hasrecently lost its pollinating partner and this has affected its set.You could try planting another apple to make sure. If space isshort, an upright cordon or three will do and at least you’ll getsome fruit from those. Meanwhile, the old apple tree could behost to some clematis, honeysuckle or a rambling rose? Or iffruitfulness is paramount, a thorn-less blackberry, loganberryor goji berry.

Tree of LifeI have two very old apple trees in mygarden, one of which seems to be comingto the end of its life. It is particularlygnarled and last year produced only a fewapples. Is there anything I can do to giveit a final lease of life or am I better offreplacing it? A Sopwell, Berkshire

‘Blown’ sprouts have probably beentroubling growers since at least1213, which I believe is the earliestmention (in Belgium) of this fabulousveg. Rich, fertile ground (limed ifnecessary) is good for sprouts, butany digging or adding of well-rottedcompost or manure into the soil or asa mulch should be carried out duringthe preceding autumn. Like otherbrassicas, they need firm soil and don’tdo well planted into a fluffy, recentlydug bed.

Space is another issue, as I often feelsprouts ‘blow’ when crowded together.

Most varieties benefit from 75cm(30in) between them, which seemsridiculously generous when plantingout. You could grow lettuce or othersmall, quick crops in between plantsduring the early stages.

Did you give them a long enoughgrowing season to form large, firmsprouts? Sow early varieties at thebeginning of March, mid-season onesin the third week of March and again inthe second week of April. I always sowunder cover for planting out later. Theydon’t want to rock about in the soil, so Iplant mine along the bottom of a wide,

10cm (4in) deep drill, so the soil fallsin and supports them. Or drawsoil up around stems as they grow.Stake plants as they rise up to preventwind rock.

Over blownMy Brussels sprouts failed to form tight buttons despitehaving a long growing season on rich, fertile ground.Instead the sprouts were open, blown and bitter. Whatcould have gone wrong? K Richards, West Yorkshire

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Grow it! January 2011 1

PracticalTheteam Benedict Vanheems Steve BradleyMartyn Cox Paul Wagland

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25Plant up a patio orchard for years of apples,pears, cherries, plums and more. BenedictVanheems explains how

Freshly shelled peas are a truesummertime treat. Martyn Cox plants hispeas and makes the case for rosemary

Greenhouse and polytunnel expertSteve Bradley has a taste for the exotic.Find out how to plant oca tubers

Pull on your Wellies and get busy on the productive plot armed with all this month’sseasonal advice from the Practical Team. Discover how to take your fruit gardento new heights and get the most from strawberries, learn how to stop springtimeinsect pests in their tracks, start off a late-season batch of maincrop spuds,and ensure you get the balance right between daytime heat and night-timecool in the greenhouse. It’s another busy month!

14 PAGESOF SEASONAL

ADVICE, TOP TIPSAND EXPERTKNOW-HOW

May

Get your allotmentplot in orderwith Paul Wagland’s step-by-step guideto setting up some raised beds, page 33


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Free ‘Grow Your Own Strawberries’ handbook with your fi rst orderAddress details: Ken Muir Ltd, Dept GT13X, Honeypot Farm, Weeley Heath, Clacton On Sea, Essex. CO16 9BJ. Telephone 01255 830181 Mon-Sat 9am-5pm.For a LARGE CHOICE of plants order a stock catalogue

P024.indd 14 07/04/2011 16:33

THE FRUITGROWER

Benedict Vanheemsis editor of Grow it!and is a passionatehome-grower.


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This month Create a patio orchard Plant a vertical garden Build a fruit cage

Warmer weather means that many fruit trees and plants arenow blooming. Ensure you protect the blossom, advises BenedictVanheems, as it offers the promise of all the fruit to come

Fruit plants covered in blossom in May aresoon likely to be covered in fruit, and thisknowledge makes the sight even more

uplifting. Most of us don’t have as much spacein our gardens as we’d like, so ‘dual purpose’plants, that are attractive and productive, really

earn their keep. Butit’s not just trees thatare blooming thismonth. Strawberry‘Roman’ is coveredin particularly prettypink flowers inMay. Then you canenjoy the lovelyred fruits right upto September, soit deserves to begrown more widelyin window boxes,planters and hangingbaskets. A greatadvantage of growingthese fruits right nextto the house is thatbirds are unlikely toeat your crop.

If you’re going to grow fruit in baskets andcontainers, it’s vital to be aware that plants willbe much more dependent on you for foodthan if they were grown in the ground. Applya regular organic feed such as liquid seaweedduring the growing season. It’s also worthbearing in mind that containers such as hangingbaskets can dry out very quickly in warmweather. As they are positioned near to wallsor fences they usually need watering even onrainy days.

One way to enjoy the benefits of havingstrawberries growing right outside your door,without having to devote hours to wateringthem every week, is to invest in a Polanter. Thisis an ingenious new vertical growing systemthat has been designed to offer ideal conditionsfor plants with the minimum of fuss. Once thePolanter is filled with plants and affixed to thewall all you have to do is attach your hose to thenozzle at the bottom, and in a jiffy you’ll haveput enough water into the inner tube to keep 12plants perfectly happy for 24 hours. You won’thave to worry about putting straw under thedeveloping fruits and each one will get plentyof air and light, so they ripen to perfection withless risk of problems like mildew.

S1First put around 2cm (1in) of gravel

into the bottom of the Polanter to aiddrainage then add compost up to thefirst hole. Specialist basket and containercompost is ideal.

2Put the strawberry plant in thecentre of the hole, gently firming the

compost around it. Add another layerof compost and more plants until thePolanter is filled up.

3Strawberries are ready to pick whenthey are bright red. Check your plants

regularly as ‘everbearing’ varieties such as‘Roman’ crop for a long period, with newflushes of fruits.

Planting up a PolanterSTEP-BY-STEP

Strawberry ‘Roman’offers stunning

flowers and fruits!


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FIVE CORDONFRUIT VARIETIES

APPLE ‘FALSTAFF’:This award-winning, frost-resistant varietygives bumpercrops of crisp, juicyfruits. It’s self-fertile so requiresno pollinator.

PEAR ‘CONCORD’:Even when youngthis variety givesheavy crops ofsweet fruit thatcan be stored formonths. It’s alsoself-fertile.

PLUM ‘VICTORIA’:An award-winningself-fertile varietythat producesheavy crops ofpink fruits that aredelicious cookedor eaten fresh.

GREENGAGE‘DENNISTON’SSUPERB’: Ideal fora sheltered spot,this self-fertiletree producesabundant goldenfruits with anunrivaled flavour.

CHERRY ‘SUMMERSUN’: Use nettingto protect theripening fruit frombirds and you’llget heavy cropsof delicious, large,dark-red fruits.

There was a time when havinga small garden meant that atbest you could hope to grow

one type of fruit tree. Enjoying thefreshly-picked flavour of differenthome-grown fruits simply wasn’t anoption for most of us. But the adventof cordon fruit trees, developed to begrown to around 2m (7ft) tall, meansthat anyone with a sunny patio canenjoy a selection of different varieties.You can plant them in large potsspaced around 90cm (3ft) apart. Theycan form a decorative feature in theirown right, or be used to screen or asa hedge to separate a different areaof the garden. Growing them againsta wall is always a good option as theextra heat generated by the wall helpsto give you even bigger crops.

If you choose self-fertile varieties youdon’t have to worry about selectingtrees with similar flowering periods to

cross pollinate one another, so there isnothing to stop you growing a wholerange of different fruits. Anotheradvantage of growing a group ofsmaller trees is that they are very easyto protect from frosts and bad weather.They will be portable so you can easilymove them to a more sheltered spot,but it will also be easy to cover themwith a layer of fleece.

Cordon trees are grown onintermediate root stock, so a little lightpruning every autumn is enough tokeep them at a very manageable size.This means that harvesting the fruitwill also be easy. Obviously you won’tget the same crops from a cordon asyou would a full-sized tree, though youcan still expect up to 5kg (11lbs) of fruitfrom each established plant, which is avery respectable harvest from a smallamount of space.

If you buy container-grown plants

Create a patio orchard

then you can create your own patioorchard at any time of year. However, ifyou want to make the most of mail-orderoffers, this month is your last chance tobuy cold-stored trees. It is vital that anytrees planted now are watered regularlyuntil they are established. Add a thicklayer of chipped bark at the top of yourcontainers to help conserve moistureand remove any weeds as soon as youspot them of they will compete with yourplants for water.

Patio cordons offera choice of fruit from

the smallest space


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1Select a suitablesunny site and start by

constructing the frame. Laythe components out firstand then insert rods intothe connectors, getting afriend to help if necessary.

3Larger, walk-in designscome with a door

frame. Cover it in nettingfirst and use cable tiesto clip it in place beforehanging the door on thehinges provided.

2Next cover the framewith netting. Take time

over pegging it down atregular intervals all alongthe bottom edge as this iswhere birds are most likelyto gain access.

Build a fruit cageSTEP-BY-STEP

Protect your crops from birdsNow is the key time to think aboutprotecting your emerging fruit cropsfrom hungry pests. Fruit cages aretraditionally built to keep birds awayfrom soft fruits but they are alsoeffective at keeping out squirrels, andthey can be draped with fleece duringlate frosts. The netting should be largeenough to allow access for pollinatinginsects such as bees and hoverflies.Depending on their size and styling,fruit cages needn’t be expensive.Companies such as Agrifames (08452604450, www.agriframes.co.uk)supply small designs suitable for

strawberry beds for just £59; theseare sturdy enough to be used formany years. Expect to pay from £199for a classic walk-in cage made fromgalvanised steel that’s around 2.5x5m(8x17ft). This will be large enough togrow raspberries, a selection of bushfruits and a few rows of strawberries.Extremely decorative designs are alsoavailable and may be worth a closerlook if you’re growing fruit in your frontgarden. For allotment use, however,you might prefer to pick up a simplebamboo fruit cage from Suttons (08449222899, www.suttons.co.uk) for £34.95.

Thin raspberry canesRaspberries are likely to put on rampantgrowth in May and you will need tokeep a close eye on the shoots ofsummer-fruiting types. These need togrow for a whole year to provide nextyear’s crop, so it’s essential that youonly keep the ones that are growingin the right place. Any that emerge onyour pathways or too far away fromtheir supports should be removed. Thebest way to do this is to put on sturdygloves, grasp the offending cane andgive it a sharp tug, so it comes awayat ground level. Aim to have just onecane every 10cm (4in) along the lengthof your supports. This means eachremaining one can be given the bestchance of giving you a bumper harvest.

199omx5mtoushies.also

serfronter,le

0844£34.95.

of your supports. This means eachremaining one can be given the bestchance of giving you a bumper harvest.

Start pickinggooseberries

There are a few different fruits that needto be thinned in order for the remainingfruitlets to grow to their full potential.This task is a treat when it comes togooseberries, as the thinnings can becollected and cooked into a deliciouscrumble or fruit fool. As a generalrule, aim to remove every other youngfruit and the ones you leave will swellinto delicious globes of sweet flesh,especially if you grow a dessert varietysuch as ‘Leveller’. Keep a close eye outfor gooseberry sawfly larvae too. Theeggs are laid on buds at the tips ofbranches, so the tiny green caterpillarsare most likely to be on the new growth.Pick off any that you see and pop themonto your bird table.

W e could all do with a helpinghand, so this month we’ve puttogether a special package of

two time-saving devices that will transformthe way you tend your plot. We’ve two setsto give away, comprising a garden seederand wheeled cultivator.

An ideal row crop planter, the 1001-BGarden Seeder is a tool that takes theguesswork out of sowing. Here’s how itworks: install one of the precision seedplates that best fits your seed then adjustthe depth of planting on the groundopener. Set the row marker for the desiredspacing, fill the hopper with seeds thenbegin pushing along your well-preparedsoil. The 1001-B plants at precise depthsand spacings, delivering and covering seedsin one operation to eliminate the problemsof seed rot and skipped plants. The resultswill speak for themselves when your perfect,evenly-spaced seedlings emerge!

Standard seed plates included with the1001-B are suitable for: sweetcorn; radish,leeks and spinach; carrots, lettuce andturnips; beans and small peas; jumbopeas; beets and Swiss chard. Optional

HOW TO ENTERTo enter the competitionsimply fill in the coupon,left, answering the question,and post back to us at theaddress shown. The first twoentries pulled from the Growit! hat after the closing datewill win a 1001-B GardenSeeder and a 6500WKentucky Style High WheelCultivator! The closing datefor entries is May 12th 2011.

COMPETITION

Grow it! Time-Savers CompetitionKelsey Publishing Group, Cudham Tithe Barn,

Berry’s Hill, Cudham, Kent TN16 3AG

Q. How wide is the wheel of the 6500W Cultivator?

............................................................................................................................................................................

Name ................................................................................................................................................................

Address.............................................................................................................................................................

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Telephone ........................................................................................................................................................

If you would like to receive emails from Grow it! and the Kelsey Digital team containing news and special

offers, please include your email address here..................................................................................................

Kelsey Publishing, publisher of Grow it! would like to contact you from time to time by post and phone with special offersand information that we think will interest to you. Tick here if you prefer not to receive these offers

Occasionally we may pass your details to carefully selected third parties whose products we think will be of interest to you.Tick here if you would prefer not to receive these offers

WINCompetition ✦ Competition ✦ Competition ✦ Competition ✦ Competition

✄

❖ For more time-saving gardenequipment, including poweredand hand tools visitwww.gardening-tools-direct.co.uk or call 0845 5196095.Or to browse a complete onlinegarden centre take a click towww.blueworldgardener.co.uk

extras to the 1001- BGarden Seeder includefurther seed plates, astorage case and a side-dress fertiliser attachment.

Meanwhile, the 6500W Kentucky StyleHigh Wheel Cultivator will save timeand money in soil preparation. Ideal fora multitude of garden jobs, from lightploughing to furrowing and cultivating,the 6500W is a very versatile tool indeed.It features traditional oak handles and aheavy-duty, powder-coated tubular steelframe. The 60cm (24in) steel wheel ensuresthe cultivator glides effortlessly throughthe ground. The three-position, adjustableheight handle and tool bar depth mean thatthe 6500W fits individual needs. The 6500Wis designed for use on soil that has alreadybeen tilled; it is not a groundbreaking tool.

A SEEDER ANDCULTIVATOR!

1001-BGarden Seeder

6500W KentuckyStyle High WheelCultivator

THE CITYGROWER

Martyn Cox writes agardening column forThe Mail on Sundayand Saga Magazine. Heis the author of sevenbooks and has a small,plant-packed garden inEast London


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This month Growing peas Planting rosemary Pest control

Peas don’t always come in serried rows. Martyn Cox explainshow to grow a perfect pot of pods that any self-respectingcity gardener would be proud of

You might often associate peas withlong rows planted on an allotment or ina kitchen garden, but you don’t need

loads of space to grow a tasty crop of yourown. Compact varieties of peas can be grownin pots, raised beds or in gaps in beds andborders. Nothing compares to the taste of peaspicked straight from the pod but apart from aflavour that is far superior to anything you’relike to find in the shops, peas are an attractivecrop to grow that look great when trained upornamental supports.

Before you starting growing peas, put sometime aside to peruse a few seed catalogues andpick some varieties. ‘Canoe’ has long, curvedpods with tender, sweet-tasting peas. ‘KelvedonWonder’ is an early dwarf variety that’s renownedfor its heavy crops, while ‘Greensage’ has reallytasty, tender peas. Some work even harder fortheir keep, boasting highly decorative pods –‘Purple Podded’ is a heritage variety with duskypurple pods, while ‘Blauwschokker’ has red andviolet flowers followed by purple pods.

To grow in raised beds or the ground, choosea sunny, well-drained spot and work in plenty ofwell-rotted manure or garden compost beforesowing to improve the soil. Make a shallowtrench, 23cm (9in) wide by 3cm (1in) deepthen sow in two parallel lines, spacing seeds5cm (2in) apart. Cover with soil and water.Alternatively, fill a 30cm (12in)-diameter pot withmultipurpose compostand mix in a handful ofcontrolled release fertilisergranules. Make holes with adibber 4cm (2in) deep, every5cm (2in) and drop a seed in.Cover and water.

When the seedlings are about5cm (2in) tall you will need to addsome supports to prevent them collapsingunder their own weight as they grow. Eithermake a rustic wigwam with twigs or usegarden canes tied together at the top.Once they get going the peas will grip tothe supports with their tendrils. You cangive them a helping hand to start off withby securing stems with soft twine. S

Pick peas regularly tokeep them coming

Young pea shoots are a realdelicacy, transforming a salador stir-fry with their sweet, freshflavour. Sow pea seeds thicklyacross the surface of moistcompost or on a tray of dampkitchen towel. Keep in a darkplace to germinate then transferto a bright windowsill to growon, watering regularly. Harvestthe shoots as soon as they’rebig enough for a crisp, nutrient-packed treat.

Shoots and score

Looking after peas is a doddle. Ensure thatthe compost or soil is never allowed to dry outand boost plants by feeding with a liquid tomatofertiliser every other week once the flowersappear. Peas will generally be ready for pickingabout three months after sowing. To ensurea ready supply throughout the summer, pickregularly to encourage more pods to develop.Aim to pick those at the bottom first, as theseare generally more mature.

Peas are a delightfulquick-grower well suitedto smaller gardens


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Apart from providing leaves that canbe picked all year, the branches aretransformed in spring by masses of flowers

Rosemary is one of the mostwelcome herbs in the garden.Apart from providing wonderfully

tasty leaves that can be picked all yearround, the branches of this evergreenshrub are transformed in spring bymasses of colourful flowers. Heraldingfrom the Mediterranean, this is a sun-loving herb that does best when plantedin well-drained soil in a sunny, shelteredspot. If you don’t have enough room in abed then grow plants in pots.

You can plant rosemary at any timebut those started from young plants inspring will establish quickly. Improve claysoil by digging in plenty of leafmould orgrit to improve drainage. Alternativelyplant into 20cm (8in) pots filled withsoil-based John Innes compost.Although you might think there’s just ahandful of varieties, there are actuallydozens available ranging in heightfrom 30cm (12in) to over 1m (3.3ft) andwith flowers in a wide range of colours.Some grow bolt upright, while othersspread or have a more arching habit.Jekka’s Herb Farm (01454 418878,www.jekkasherbfarm.com) andHighdown Nursery (01273 492976,www.highdownnursery.com) have agood selection of rosemary varieties.

Growing rosemary is dead easy.Plants are fairly drought tolerant,though they will need watering regularly

Grow some rosemary

FIVE OF THE BEST ROSEMARY...

BENENDEN BLUE: Hashandsome needlesand small, dark blueflowers. An uprightplant reaching 80cm(2ft 8in) tall.

MISS JESSOPP’SUPRIGHT: Pick thisplant for the mostupright growing habit.Bears pale blue flowers.Height 1m (3ft 4in).

MAJORCA PINK: A tallplant with an upright,arching habit. The realtreat is its pretty pinkblooms. Can reach 1m(3ft 4in).

SUDBURY BLUE:Another tall, uprightvariety with veryaromatic leaves andstunning blue flowers.Reaches 1m (3ft 4in).

LADY IN WHITE:Bright white flowerson upright branchesmake this a mostattractive rosemary.Height 60cm (2ft).

during dry summers, especially if beinggrown in containers. Feed plants witha balanced fertiliser after they havefinished flowering. They require very littlepruning. Remove wayward branchesor any that spoil the shape of the plant.Keep plants compact by cutting backstems after the blooms start to fade orplants will become leggy.

Plants that are growing in well-drained soil should survive winter withvery little problem but those in potsare more vulnerable to rotting rootscaused by rain and snow. Protect themby raising pots onto pot feet and placingin a rain shadow. Covering the brancheswith horticultural fleece will helpinsulate against frost.

The only problem you’re likelyto encounter when growing thisherb is rosemary beetle,an instantly recognisablesmall oval beetle thatis embellished withmetallic green and purplestripes. Its greyish larvaeare also a nuisance. Thepest can appear in greatnumbers and will quicklystrip the stems of leaves.Fortunately it’s easy tospot and can be removedby hand and despatchedunder foot.

Rosemary beetleshave a metallic sheen


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er✦ Forgotten to sow tomatoes,aubergines and peppers?Don’t despair – check out yourgarden centre or nursery forready-grown young plants.

✦ Prevent potatoes fromturning green and inedibleby earthing up spuds plantedbetween the end of March andearly April. Cover the stemswith soil, or compost if grownin pots, leaving about 7cm (3in)of foliage showing.

✦ Remove the centralflower spike from clumps ofrhubarb to ensure the plantcontinues to produce stems forharvesting.

✦ Feed tomato plants weeklywith a fertiliser high in potashto help the fruit swell. Tie instems and remove side-shootsof vine types as necessary.

Quick jobs May

Warmer weather usually results in greaternumbers of pests in the garden, drawn tosoft sappy growth like magnets. Althoughit’s virtually impossible to completelywin the battle against the multitude ofpesky critters, you can prevent them fromannihilating your edibles with greatervigilance and by taking action against themthis spring.

For me, garden enemy number oneis aphids. They are a problem on chives,strawberries, beans, kiwi fruit, basil and justabout everything else. Here they will sucksap, reducing the vigour of plants, stuntingleaves and reducing a potentially goodyield. Fortunately they are easy to control,as long as you spot them early enough.Regularly check plants and squash anyyou find by hand. Black bean aphids areattracted to the tender young shoot tips ofbroad beans, so pinch out tips of plants toprevent problems.

If they go unnoticed and you end upwith an infestation on your hands, there’sno alternative other than to use a spray.Organic pesticides containing horticulturalsoft soap or natural plants oils are ideal, asare products such as Organic Pest Control

and Growing Success Bug Killer. Checkthe small print of any sprays carefullyfor guidance on how long you haveto leave plants after spraying beforestarting to harvest.

Another major menace is gooseberrysawfly. Despite its name, this pest alsotargets red, white and blackcurrantplants. The pale green, caterpillar-like larvae cause rapid and severedefoliation of plants, often reducingbushes to bare stems by harvest time.Damage starts in mid to late spring butthere can be three generations of thepest a year, so problems can continuethrough the summer.

Again, you need to regularly inspectplants to prevent problems getting out ofhand. Check plants daily remembering toexamine the undersides of leaves, especiallyin the centre of the bush. Give plants theoccasional shake to see if any caterpillarsfall out. If you find any, remove and squashby hand. Infestations will need sprayingwith a pesticide containing pyrethrum orthiacloprid, such as Provado UltimateBug Killer or Scott’s Bug Clear Gun forFruit and Veg.

TACKLE SPRING PESTS

Aphids areenemy numberone but easilydealt with

Cover strawberry plants boasting flowers or fruit with sheets of horticultural fleeceif frost is forecast overnight. This will stop them from turning black, turning to mushand then acting as an entry point for disease. You can drape fleece directly over theplants or, for a season-long solution create a miniature fruit cage. To do this securelengths of bamboo canes together to form a sturdy framework. Once the frost riskis over you can use the frame as a support for insect or bird netting to keep plantsclear of pest attack. I also like to tuck in a layer of straw beneath the developing fruitsto keep them clean; you could use black polythene or purpose-bought strawberrymats if straw isn’t immediately available.

Straw poles


To Advertise In

Contact Susan Loome on

01342 301731

96 FEBRUARY 2010

Swatches Palette Swatches library Scroll to other library choose gradient choose style eg metal

www.chilternseeds.co.ukOur 2009 Seed Catalogue and “VegBook” offers well over 4,500 items,

including an excellent selection of tasty Heirloom vegetables, salad crops and kitchen herbs.Tel: 01229 581137

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F r e e 2 0 1 0 S p r i n g C a t a l o g u eOrdinary & Organic Vegetable & Herb Seeds.

Flower & Wild Flower seeds + Sweet PeasGreen Manure, Potatoes, Garlic, Rhubarb etc

Tel / Fax 01284 828 255e-mail [email protected]

Or Buy Online @ www.terwinseeds.co.ukUnit 5a, Peppers Hall, Old Hall Lane, Cockfield, Suffolk, IP30 0LH

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The Organic GardeningThe Organic GardeningThe Organic GardeningThe Organic GardeningThe Organic GardeningCatalogueCatalogueCatalogueCatalogueCatalogue

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Moisture Seals

Get Your FREE Catalogue TodayTel: 0845 260 44 50 (local rate) www.agriframes.co.uk GI0210

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Why do thousands of gardeners ‘in the know’ choose Agriframes Fruit Cages. Is it because we design and manufacture our own frames so they are made to last? Could it be the strong hi-tensile steel tubing which is galvanised both inside and out to resist corrosion? Perhaps it is the long life UV treated polymer coating. Or our metal joints and moisture resistant seals. Or maybe they know that cheaper screwed together imitations which are only galvanised on the outside could be more prone to rust.

It takes years to establish your fruit crop so don’t risk a rickety, rusty frame. Remember those ‘in the know’ grow with Agriframes.

The Professionals’ Choice

UV treated

Lines open 8am-8pm 7 days a week Or request your copy through our website

Don’t miss out on D.T. Brown’s great

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your copy and quote: DC10GR2

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Seeds, plants, bulbs, fruit, vegetables,

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Which? ‘Best Buy’

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096 & 97_GI1_Feb 2010.indd 96 16/12/2009 10:39

96 FEBRUARY 2010

Swatches Palette Swatches library Scroll to other library choose gradient choose style eg metal

www.chilternseeds.co.ukOur 2009 Seed Catalogue and “VegBook” offers well over 4,500 items,

including an excellent selection of tasty Heirloom vegetables, salad crops and kitchen herbs.Tel: 01229 581137

Email: [email protected]

F r e e 2 0 1 0 S p r i n g C a t a l o g u eOrdinary & Organic Vegetable & Herb Seeds.

Flower & Wild Flower seeds + Sweet PeasGreen Manure, Potatoes, Garlic, Rhubarb etc

Tel / Fax 01284 828 255e-mail [email protected]

Or Buy Online @ www.terwinseeds.co.ukUnit 5a, Peppers Hall, Old Hall Lane, Cockfield, Suffolk, IP30 0LH


The Organic GardeningThe Organic GardeningThe Organic GardeningThe Organic GardeningThe Organic GardeningCatalogueCatalogueCatalogueCatalogueCatalogue

GrGrGrGrGrow Yow Yow Yow Yow Your Own Food at Homeour Own Food at Homeour Own Food at Homeour Own Food at Homeour Own Food at Home

01932 253666OrganicCatalogue.com

108 pages with the best choiceof seeds for earth friendly gardeners -

including 47 Tomatoes!

Fruit Cages that stand the test of time

plus... long life netting • ground hooks • ties • cage doors • tailor made sizes

Fruit Cagesplus... long life netting • ground hooks • ties • cage doors • tailor made sizes

Moisture Seals

Get Your FREE Catalogue TodayTel: 0845 260 44 50 (local rate) www.agriframes.co.uk GI0210

Polymer coated

Galvanised

Why do thousands of gardeners ‘in the know’ choose Agriframes Fruit Cages. Is it because we design and manufacture our own frames so they are made to last? Could it be the strong hi-tensile steel tubing which is galvanised both inside and out to resist corrosion? Perhaps it is the long life UV treated polymer coating. Or our metal joints and moisture resistant seals. Or maybe they know that cheaper screwed together imitations which are only galvanised on the outside could be more prone to rust.

It takes years to establish your fruit crop so don’t risk a rickety, rusty frame. Remember those ‘in the know’ grow with Agriframes.

The Professionals’ Choice

UV treated

Lines open 8am-8pm 7 days a week Or request your copy through our website

Don’t miss out on D.T. Brown’s great

NEW season catalogue. Ring now to request

your copy and quote: DC10GR2

0845 3710532

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P032.indd 14 07/04/2011 15:18

THE ORGANICALLOTMENTEER

Paul Wagland isan RHS-qualifiedgardener and keenallotmenteer, withthree thriving plots indeepest Essex.


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This month Raised beds Growing potatoes Allotment chickens

Organisation is vital to get the most from your plot and raisedbeds are an easy way to stay on top. Paul Wagland puts thecase for these helpful allotment additions

I’m a great fan of raised beds and tendto treat them as the central part of anyallotment plan. The initial work involved in

building them might seem intimidating, butit’s really not difficult and once completedwill cut down on your regular maintenance.There are many advantages to this system;your plot will look ordered and attractive,

the soil in your beds can be tailored to yourcrops and as they are raised above groundlevel you shouldn’t have any trouble withexcess water. It’s also a very effective way ofstopping people from walking on the bedsand compacting your vitally importantsoil structure.

Raised beds are a fairly permanentstructure, so you need to be sure you areputting them in the right place. When youhave decided where your beds will go, clearand level the ground as best you can. Markout the site using pegs and string beforetaking a step back and thinking about howyour plot will work. Walk the paths and makesure you can reach all the cultivated areas.

Once your beds are built you will need tothoroughly dig-over the ground inside themand then fill with clean topsoil. Now is a goodtime to mix in manure, leaf mould, compostor sand according to the requirements of yourplants and the quality of the topsoil.

If you are building raised beds as a firststep into the world of vegetable gardeningmy advice would be to start small. Don’t turnhalf the garden into a veg patch – even if yousurvive the initial digging you will never stayon top of the sowing, planting, weeding andwatering. Cultivate a small area well and you’llhave much better success. Then you can buildon this year by year.

S1The edges of the beds can be made

from any timber you can get hold ofcheaply, but avoid thin, flexible planks.Beds three metres (10ft) long by onemetre (3ft 4in) wide is an ideal size.

2Cut the boards carefully to length.An electric jigsaw makes very light

work of this job – cordless types are thebest for allotmenteers.

3Very thick boards can be screweddirectly to one another. Alternatively

attach them to posts driven into theground. This also stops lighter timberfrom moving around.

Making raised bedsSTEP-BY-STEP


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Grow some potatoes

VIVALDI: My favouriteall-round spud; easy togrow, mouth-wateringlytasty and with a smooth,creamy texture.

PINK FIR APPLE: A veryold variety with curiouslyknobbled, pink-skinnedtubers. Delicious nuttyflavour and waxy flesh.Great as a salad potato.

ROCKET: Perhaps thefastest-growing earlypotato, with good all-round disease resistance.It grows well in containersor bags.

SARPO AXONA: Astrain specially bred forblight resistance. Thetubers have a very goodflavour and are suitablefor all culinary uses.

MARFONA: Producingconsistently high yields,this second early is a greatchoice for those who likelarge baking potatoes.

Potatoes are one of the bestthings to grow to improve thesoil; the roots and regular hoeing

break up compacted soil and thedense canopy of leaves is effective atsuppressing weeds. However, you willneed to provide plenty of water duringthe growing season. Thirsty plantswill divert stored water away from thetubers in a drought in order to survive,but while this may save the plant, it willruin your crop. The solution is simple:don’t allow the plants to wilt or dry out!

Choosing a range of varieties willkeep you producing potatoes for a verylong season. First and second earliestraditionally provide new potatoes,while maincrop varieties produce largertubers suitable for chipping, baking,roasting and mashing. You can plant alltypes at the same time (traditionally lateMarch, but later is fine) and the differenttypes will mature at different speeds.

For a longer cropping period (andalso to spread the work at this busy timeof year) I like to stagger my plantingover a couple of months. First earliescan be planted in mid to late Marchand harvested in June or July. Secondearlies can go in from late March toearly April and should be ready in Julyor early August. If you only have limitedroom on your plot you could stop there,as it gives you the opportunity to plantanother, fast-growing crop in the soilvacated by the potatoes. Maincropvarieties planted mid to late April andlifted in August for immediate use, or inSeptember for storage, take up moreroom for longer.

However, if you do have lots of spaceyou can extend the harvest period evenlonger with a late maincrop, planted

in late April or early May and lifted inOctober for storage. Gardeners in thesouth of England can bring plantingdates forward by a week or two, whilethose in the North should delay them bythe same amount.

You can also plant later than thiswithout any problem, into June or evenJuly if you can still find seed potatoesfor sale or you save your own. If you arefeeling adventurous and don’t mind

taking a bit of a gamble, you can eventry for new potatoes on Christmas day.You can buy second-cropping potatoesfrom some suppliers, otherwise whenyou lift early potatoes in the summer,set a few aside. In June or July, replantthem as you did previously and cover inSeptember with large cloches. All beingwell, you should be able to lift them onChristmas eve and enjoy tender newpotatoes for your dinner.

FIVE POTATOES TO TRY

Earth up young potatostems as they grow


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1You can dig a trench for a line oftubers or plant them in individual

holes. Either way they should be about10cm (4in) deep and 30-40cm (12-16in)apart, with 50-75cm (20-30in) betweenrows. More space gives higher yields.

2 Sprinkle an organic potato feed intothe trench or holes, then add your

tubers with the ‘rose’ end (where mostof the sprouts are forming) upwards.Gently cover with soil, taking care not todamage the rose.

3When the young leaves appear,carefully pull more soil over them

with a hoe or rake (this is called earthingup). This protects foliage from frost andencourages more tubers to form. Repeatuntil there are no more frosts.

Planting your tubersSTEP-BY-STEP

Allotment chickensAfter growing your own veg, keepinga few hens has to be the easiestway to produce your own food. TheAllotment Act of 1950 allows you tokeep hens and rabbits on your plotunless contrary to local by-laws.

You’ll need to visit hens once aday, a task which could be sharedwith family members or fellow plot-holders. Letting chooks out of a coopin the morning and shutting themin at night could be tiresome but asimple automatic door will save youthe trouble. Chickens are sociablecreatures and keeping a single henon her own is not an option. Three isa minimum, and five or six is a good number to keep the typical family in fresh eggs.

You will need a hen house sized to suit your flock. This can be bought or built (I’veseen old sheds converted effectively) and should be sited within a wire run so thechickens can roam during the day. The more space you give your birds, the happierthey will be. Make sure your run has a roof and sink the wire into the ground to a depthof 40cm (16in) to deter foxes.

Use a sowing lineAlthough it may seem a little strict, sowing in straight linesreally does allow you to squeeze in more plants and makesweeding your rows easier. To make your own line, simplytie some garden twine to a piece of old cane and push itinto the ground. Next, pull the twine taut and secure atthe other end with another cane. After you have sown yourseeds, leave the line in place until they germinate – this willstop you from accidentally disturbing the soil when hoeingor weeding. For the more image-conscious gardenerthere are some very pretty off-the-peg designs available,such as the oak garden line, pictured here, from HarrodHorticultural (0845 4025300, www.harrodhorticultural.com).Fans of car boot sales should keep an eye out for antiquesowing lines – they look great and can cost pennies.

Make a herb spiralWhile most herbs are not difficultto grow, it can be tricky to find aspot in the garden where they canbe kept together because of theirdiverse requirements. A clever wayto create a variety of conditionsin a small space is to build a herbspiral – a conical mound of earthplanted on all sides from bottomto top. Mediterranean herbs suchas rosemary and thyme like sunny,well-drained sites and will do bestat the top of the spiral in full sun andwhere the soil is bound to be driest.Herbs which need more moisturewill grow better at the bottom of thespiral, with sun-lovers like mint facingsouth and plants like parsley andGood King Henry on the northernface where the lower light levels willencourage leaf growth.

Ex-battery hens are agood option for first-time chook keepers


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Steve Bradley hasan RHS Master ofHorticulture diplomaand lectures widelyon gardening. He haswritten over 30 bookson the subject and isgardening editor ofThe Sun.

This month Avoiding disease Planting oca Emergency heating

The transition from spring to summer is a delicate one. Whiledaytime temperatures often soar, a night-time frost is still adistinct possibility. Be on guard, advises Steve Bradley

By May, the days are consistently warmerand they’re getting much longer, whichis an added bonus at such a busy time

when there’s so much work to be done. Quitehow warm the days are is variable and dependslargely on how far north you live and theamount of cloud cover. Cloud can be a mixedblessing, because while we dislike grey skies,those warm, clear days can be the precursorto a ground frost if the skies remain clear atnight. This constant fear of a snap frost tends todictate how fast you can move and ‘harden off’your plants before they are transplanted outinto the garden to allow those plants intendedto remain inside greenhouses and polythenetunnels the amount of growing room theyreally need at long last.

The temperature in a protected area canrise dramatically at this time of year with just afew hours of sunshine but then dip almost asquickly if the clouds gather, so ventilating andtrying to keep the temperature fairly constantcan be time consuming. Damping down toincrease the humidity will help, but try to do thisin the morning, if possible, as the presence ofstanding water overnight (especially if the nightsare cold) can still encourage grey mould anddamping off to damage or kill young plants andseedlings. Even early crops of tomato, pepperand cucumber can be vulnerable because,despite the fact that the plants are quite large,the flowers can still be attacked by the fungalspores. This problem can be particularly bad inpolythene-clad structures, though an applicationof anti-condensation spray to keep the plasticclear should help.

Rather than simply relying on using waterapplications to lower the temperature inside

the structure, use shading too.Shading paint is applied directly tothe cladding of a greenhouse orpolythene tunnel and is very easy toapply in layers as the temperaturebuilds up. Shade netting mayneed to be removed and replacedover the structure for protectiondepending on the weatherconditions, although many do havethe advantage of providing somefrost protection if left inplace overnight.

Despite all the hard work (andoften long hours) involved ingardening at this time of year, it isalways exciting, whether it’s yourfirst season or your 50th. Seedsand plants of new varieties youare growing for the first time arefascinating. As well as a naturalcuriosity about how they perform,there is always the anxiety ofdealing with something new andmaking extra certain you are doingthe right thing – and, sometimes,that awful guessing that you knowwhat the right thing is!

The temperature in a protectedarea can rise dramatically atthis time of year

External shade nettingon rollers offers the

greatest flexibility atthis time of year


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1Place four to five tubershorizontally in a large pot

half-filled with compost andcover them with about 10cm(4in) of compost.

2Water the compostthoroughly before placing

it in a polythene tunnel orgreenhouse to start off intogrowth.

3Alternatively, cut holes in agrow bag then loosen the

exposed compost. Plant thetubers so they are covered by4cm (2in) of compost. Water wellbefore placing under protection.

STEP-BY-STEP Planting oca

S

Oca, or Oxalis tuberosa to give it its Latinname, is an annual plant that overwintersas underground stem tubers. The plant hasbeen cultivated for many generations inparts of South America for its tubers, whichare used as a root vegetable. These plantsneed a long growing season so, ideally,they should be started in a greenhouse orpolythene tunnel and then either grownoutdoors in a warm, sunny position or grownunder protection throughout the life of thecrop. As you can see from the step-by-steppictures, the tubers look a little bit like ‘PinkFir Apple’ potatoes.

This crop seems tailor-made forpolythene tunnel production, either in theborder soil or in containers in our Britishgrowing conditions. The early start isimportant because these plants only start toproduce their edible tubers in the autumnas the days get shorter and the top growthis frost tender. As yet (because it’s so newto this country) I have no idea how hardy thetubers are, so even if the plants are growingoutdoors they may need to be broughtinside to extend the season and get aheavier crop of tubers.

With this being a trial run, I am playingsafe and growing the plants in two differentways. Most of the research I have donesuggests they should be grown likepotatoes. However, I found one referencesaying they should be treated like sweetpotatoes. The problem is that the cultivationof these two crops is very different as

potatoes need to be earthed-up (or coveredwith successive layers of compost), whereassweet potatoes don’t. That said sweetpotatoes need plenty of room to spreadas they produce large quantities of trailingfoliage. So, I will grow some in 25-litre potsand others in a growing bag to see howthey perform.

The tubers of oca can be boiled, baked,fried or used in stews and soups, servedlike potatoes or eaten raw. Also, the leavesand young shoots can be eaten as a greenvegetable, so it’svery versatile.

Experimental oca This vegetable has severalcommon names: oca,oka, New Zealand yam oryam (although it is not relatedto the actual yam at all).

Name changer

4 OTHEREXOTIC VEG

BITTER MELON: The fruits ofthis curcurbit should be eatenyoung. Slightly bitter in taste,you may also enjoy the mildlynutty tendrils and youngshoots. Sow now and grow ina similar way to cucumbers.

GINGER: Plant pieces ofroot with a horn-like shootbud into pots of compost inspring. Keep warm and pot

on as the plant grows.The fresh foliagecan also be used incooking, as can the

stunning flowers.

TURMERIC: With roots similarto ginger in appearance,turmeric (pictured left) is veryeasy to grow. Like ginger, itneeds warmth and regularfeeding to give its best. Theleaves look a bit like the houseplant aspidistra.

LABLAB: More often grown asan ornamental in this country,the lablab bean is usuallyeaten whole like mangetout.It needs very strong supportsand results can be variable, butworth a try.

Oca has the distinctivetrilobed leaves of common

ornamental oxalis


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STEP-BY-STEP

Fluctuating temperatures can bea real problem during the days,especially in the first part of the

month, but it’s the nights that cancause the most concern, especially asthe temperature nudges down towardsfreezing. Most parts of the UK canexperience a rogue frost throughoutthe month and all your hard work andpreparation can be either lost or severelyset back with just a few hours of lowtemperatures.

So you have to resist the temptation toempty, clean and store your greenhouseheater just yet. If it is bulky, smelly andtakes up too much valuable space, youcould look at getting a smaller one forthis time of year. Yes, you may be able touse horticultural fleece or even sheetsof newspaper over the plants to giveprotection from one or two degrees of

frost, but if the temperature is very low,something more will be required.

For emergency heating at night, a smallheater will produce just enough heat tokeep out the frost and there are sometypes that can actually help the plants togrow, as they produce carbon dioxide asa by-product from the heating process.

A small, propane-fuelled heater can bejust as useful on cool, dull or windy days toprovide a small amount of heat to give thetemperature a lift. It will also promote thegrowth of plants in those critical early stagesof growth. This type of heater is much lessmessy to deal with than many paraffin-fuelledheaters and there are no fumes lingeringinside the structure. You may be able to useany remaining fuel for other purposes and –perhaps even more of a consideration thesedays – the cost of oil-based fuels such asparaffin is steadily increasing.

1Fasten the heating unit to afirm base, preferably above

ground level to improve aircirculation, to keep it stable.

2Attach the flexible hose tothe gas regulator unit, and

fasten the hose firmly with ajubilee clip.

3Using a spanner or wrenchconnect the regulator unit

to the propane gas bottle.

Frost protection

4Test the heater is working bylighting the gas nozzle using

a long match or taper. Oncetested, the heater is ready for use.

Backup heating

USEFUL CONTACTS✦ Bio Green propane heater:Mr Fothergill’s (01638 751161,www.mr-fothergills.co.uk)

✦ Coolglass shading: CapitalGardens (020 8465 7474,www.capitalgardens.co.uk)

✦ Summer Cloud shading:Gardening Naturally (01285 654241,www.gardening-naturally.com)

✦ Varishade shading and SunClearanti-condensation spray: LBSGarden Warehouse (01282 873370,www.lbsgardenwarehouse.co.uk)

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You’ve come so far, so don’trisk it all on inadequate

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The smallest heater, whichhas a 300 Watt output, uses 27g(1oz) of propane gas per hour,so an 11kg (22lb) gas canister

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Veg grow guide

Spring is here and we are excitedto be sowing and plantingbeans, courgettes, tomatoes and

sweetcorn for eating in summer andearly autumn. But then what? Withsome careful planning and a little extratime, you can also enjoy harvests formuch of the winter season, includingsalads, leafy vegetables and roots, allcontributing tasty and healthy mealsthrough the generally less healthy

time of year. Some of these will needstoring, others can be harvested fresh.

It is good for our plots that we ventureout in winter to harvest the goodies anddo some weeding or whatever needsattention. The rhythm becomes little andoften, keeping things tidy, rather thanoccasional major makeovers. A no-digsystem works well in winter gardeningbecause the ground can be clearedaround remaining vegetables and

COLD INTENTThe growing season may have only recently got underway but thewise gardener is making plans now for this winter. Charles Dowdinglooks at suitable crops to tithe us through those colder months

The frosted leavesof very winter-hardy‘Cavolo Nero’ kale

Spreading manure in Decemberto feed the soil and future crops

Veg grow guide


harvests. I even spread compost a fewmonths before sowing carrots andparsnips, which do not fork because itis not incorporated. In other words theseeds are sown into a drill with compostaround them. This is good for soil andboosts the harvests of roots; last year Idug 16kg (35lbs) parsnips from a 3m (10ft)row of un-dug soil with compost on top. S

STEP-BY-STEP Follow-on brassicas

1In this example, garlic occupies theground for the first half of the year

(pictured here in March). The organicmatter on top of the beds will feed thecrop as it becomes incorporated.

2 The garlic is ready as soon as theleaves start to die back a little. In

this instance the crop is lifted on thefirst day of July in preparation for thebrassicas that follow.

3The garlic bulbs are hung up todry in a warm, dry place. Hardneck

varieties of garlic will keep rightthrough the winter to further boostyour winter larder.

4With the garlic cleared the brassicascan go in. These have been raised

in modules beforehand. Sproutingbroccoli, kale, cauliflower and flowersprouts are the choice of crops here.

5No need to wait! The brassicas areplanted immediately after lifting

the garlic to maximise the growingtime before winter arrives. A knee-highdibber saves the back.

6Watered as appropriate, the nowbrassica bed rapidly establishes. This

picture was taken in September andshows how much growth has occurred.Hearty winter harvests look assured.

composted, without needing to clearwhole areas for digging.

In my gardens, well-rotted compostor manure is spread around growingvegetables like leeks, sprouts and kale,in the autumn or winter, as a first step inpreparing soil for the following springand summer. Think of compost as foodfor the soil as much as food for plants:its nutrients are not water soluble and liemostly dormant in winter, waiting to feednew growth in spring and summer.

Whole orhalf-seasonveg?Some winterharvests need awhole season togrow in. Theseinclude cropssuch as celeriac,onions, parsnips,Brussels sproutsand maincroppotatoes. It isnow too late tosow celeriac and

onions, although they can still be setout as plants. For the others, Brusselssprouts grow well from a May sowing,parsnips can be sown as late as themiddle of June if moisture is assuredin the seedbed, and potatoes can beplanted in May, although they then haveless time to grow before the season ofblight arrives.

Many other winter vegetables canbe grown in half a season, so they mayfollow an earlier harvest of spring salads,beetroot, carrots, early potatoes, garlic,peas, broad beans and spinach. Hereare three tips for succeeding with this.

✓ Start seedlingselsewhere: Raise plantsfrom an earlier sowing, forsetting out as soon as a firstharvest is finished. For example a rowor two of leeks can be sown in April forplanting by the middle of July, swedecan be module-sown in early June toplant out by the end of June, and manysalads can be sown indoors throughoutsummer to plant on the same day thatspace is cleared, even as late as after theonion harvest.

✓ Feed your soil: Keep soil in goodheart with annual dressings of compostand/or manure to ensure two worthwhile

✓ Weed regularly: Keep on top ofweeds at all times so that clean groundis easy to clear and re-plant, sometimeson the same day. This applies all yearround because if soil is kept cleanaround vegetables in winter, soil canquickly be made ready for sowing inspring by simply clearing the remains ofa winter harvest after it is finished.

ing with this.

rrst

xample a row

TOPTIPS!

Turnip ‘Atlantic F1’in autumn, sownin August after anonion crop


Veg grow guide

Harvests of certain vegetables cancontinue all winter except in extremecold, say -10°C. I find that a well-composted soil stays relatively soft whenfrozen so I’m able to pull frozen leeksand swedes or dig parsnips in all but themost enduring freezes.

Leafy vegetablesLeeks are a great standby, in almostall weathers, as long as you havesown a true winter variety such as‘Bandit’, ‘Edison’, ‘Bleu de Solaise’ or‘Musselburgh’, although the latter ismore variable in quality than it used tobe. All these varieties are fully winterhardy and then grow strongly in Aprilto offer large harvests by month’s endwhen there are few other fresh greens.

Savoy cabbage is reliable because,in spite of being holed by caterpillarsin summer and early autumn, theirleaves are tough enough to survive andplants then have enough resources fordeveloping fine hearts in winter andearly spring. My favourites are ‘Ormskirk’and ‘Endeavour F1’. Pigeons show lessinterest in savoys than in other brassicas.

Kale is also easier to grow than someother brassicas and is extremely frosthardy. There are dwarf varieties for smallgardens and larger greenones such as ‘Westlandse’for harvests of greatabundance. ‘RedborF1’ is really beautifulall winter, whenits leaves turn adeep, dark red ontall stems. ‘RedRussian’ kale offersflat leaves that aretasty in salads oncompact plants whichare also decorative.

Brussels sprouts areproductive until Christmas andthen grow more slowly. The sprouts of alater-maturing variety such as ‘Bosworth’

how much you thin them. Some varietiessuffer a shoulder rot called canker but arestill mostly edible: the relative absence ofpests and utter hardiness make parsnipsa great winter staple, with their sweetnessincreasing as winter progresses.

Celeriac can stand outdoors exceptin really cold winters. The roots storewell so it is safest to harvest themby December for storing in a shed,somewhere cool at least, or cover themwith fleece in November. Celeriac growsbest in moist soil and you may struggleto achieve large roots in light soils, butthe rich and sweet flavour makes it worthattempting.

Outdoor saladsLamb’s lettuce is the hardiest saladand should survive in all weathers, evenunder snow for a week or more. Pickingsare small because individual headsrarely grow larger than the diameterof a grapefruit. They want harvesting

should stand well. Leave the plants’tops on (pigeons permitting) so thatnew buttons can develop as the stemelongates until April. By this time anyremaining sprouts will be opening intoflowering stems, which are even moredelicious than tight buttons.

Root vegetablesSwede has a reputation for being

difficult to grow but is mucheasier when you sow a

little later than is oftenrecommended, indoors

in modules in earlyJune. The beauty ofswedes, apart fromtheir lovely flavour,is complete winterhardiness, so theycan be harvested

when needed,although rabbits may

nibble their roots.Parsnips are a British

speciality, amazingly little-grownin mainland Europe, for example. Theirsize is governed by soil fertility and by

WHEN TO SOW ORPLANT WINTERVEGETABLES

Early May: Sow parsnips andwinter squash if you’ve not alreadydone so.

May:Plant onions, potatoes,celeriac, Jerusalem artichokes andwinter squash.

June: Sow kale, sprouting broccoli,cabbage, cauliflower, swede, carrotsand beetroot. Plant out leeks andBrussels sprouts.

July:Sow kale, radicchio, parsleyand sorrel. Plant beetroot, broccoli,cabbage, cauliflower and leeks.

August:Sow turnip, oriental leaves,rocket, endive, lettuce, spinach, landcress, chervil, coriander and winterpurslane. Plant radicchio, orientalleaves etc.

September:Sow lamb’s lettuce andoriental leaves in the first week ofSeptember. Plant all remainingsalads. Sow salads for growingunder cover.

October:Plant salads in coveredspaces, garlic outdoors and broadbeans at the end of the month.

er greenstlandse’eat

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hiche.ts arehristmas and

Swede has a reputationdifficult to gro

easier whelittle lat

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whenalthou

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speciality, amaz

Leek mothLeek moth has been a problem

recently and I find the best remedyis to sow in good time, in early April

outdoors, to have good-sized plants bythe middle of June. When planted in well-

manured ground these should then bestrong and large enough to resist and grow

away from the caterpillars’ nibbling inlate summer. I lost hardly any leeks last

year – despite many being eatenfrom late August to October,

they recovered wellfrom November.

Harvesting swede inJanuary after a -12°C night!Far left: Picking off kaleleaves in January. The centralcore is left to grow on

Peekaboo! Hardylamb’s lettuce sheltersunder a tent cloche


STEP-BY-STEP

1The previous summer crop is clearedaway ready for the follow-on winter

lettuce. If the ground is dry, water itthoroughly before re-planting. Dibberholes ready for your plugs of lettuce.

2I find the best way of growing lettucelike this is to start them off in good-

sized module trays. Here you can seehow developed the root system is of this‘Grenoble Red’ winter-hardy lettuce.

3The lettuce plugs go out inSeptember into the pre-dibbered

holes. Work on a spacing of 23cm (9in),which will give slugs less places to hidewhile the lettuces become established.

Follow-on lettuces

at this size, before the bottom leavesturn yellow. When picking them, cutabove soil level so that side-shootsfrom the base can grow into secondaryharvests for late winter and earlyspring. Coriander is hardy beyond mostexpectations and offers some greatflavours in winter meals. Chervil andparsley are a little less hardy but can beprolific when given some protection,such as from a cloche.

Many other salads can survive awinter outdoors but will not yield manyleaves until the second half of March.Much also depends on the winter’sweather. Some kind of protection isreally worthwhile and any cover whichgives some protection against the

Stored harvestsTo complement all these deliciousoutdoor vegetables, there aremany possible roots, fruits andhearts to store, mostly in cool anddry conditions. Here is a brief listto give some ideas and to whetyour appetite.

Root crops: Beetroot and carrotsare best lifted in November. Storethe roots in sacks with a little soilon them and keep them cool.Turnips are less hardy than swedeand can be pulled in December tostore in cool sacks.

Spuds: Potatoes can be kept inpaper sacks in the cool. They willsprout after Christmas but are stilledible.

Leafy veg: Cabbage ball-headhearts are cut in November. Keepthem moist and as cool as possible.Salad leaves can be picked,washed and stored in a polythenebag for a week, in the cool.

Alliums: Garlic stores from a lateJune/early July harvest in the dryand warm. Hardneck varietiesare the best keepers. Onionsharvested in early August shouldstore all winter if dry and free ofmildew (neck rot).

Squash: Squash keeps bestwhen warm and dry, in the house.It’s essential that only fruits withhard, well-seasoned skin are putinto storage.

wind above all will pay dividends.Even a double layer of fleece drapedreasonably tight on top of leaves willhelp plants survive the cold and thengrow some more in March and April.

Indoor saladsAny salad plants grown in a greenhouse,polytunnel, conservatory – even onwindowsills – can give repeat pickings inwinter. This is especially the case whenthe leaves are carefully pinched or cutindividually, rather than slicing throughall leaves including the baby heart ones.I plant all winter salads at a spacing of23cm (9in) inches apart. The seeds forthese salads sown in September thenplanted in October, either in soil or inboxes filled with compost and manure(yes, you can use well-rotted manure!).The larger, outer leaves are picked offas they grow from November until April,with no extra feeding.

Suitable plants to grow include pakchoi of any kind, mizuna, mustards ofany type and intensity you fancy (try‘Red Frills’ for its sheer beauty), saladrocket, spinach, endive, lettuce suchas ‘Grenoble Red’ (which works wellas a winter leaf lettuce), broad-leavedsorrel, parsley, chervil, coriander, winterpurslane, leaf radish and land cress.The range of possible salads is actuallygreater in winter than in summer, so havea go and make the most of them all!

Far from being a time of famine,there are feasts to be had from the landand from your stores of summer-grownvegetables. Nevertheless, to ensure thiscontinuation of harvests it’s essentialthat the groundwork is laid from now.


PRACTICAL PROJECT: MAY

Beans in a basket

French beans will grow happily in acontainer as long as the soil is richand moist. They are prolific croppers

and will provide a good harvest over fourto six weeks. You can extend the croppingtime by sowing more beans four weeksafter the first batch. This is known assuccessional sowing (you will need anothercontainer in which to plant this later crop).As the second sowing will take placelater in the year, when the temperature iswarmer, the beans can be sown directlyinto the container. The earlier crop shouldbe sown individually in long pots.

The deep, round basket used here isan ideal size in which to grow five dwarfFrench bean plants. It is lined with a garden-refuse sack, which stops water leakingfrom the basket – but don’t forget to makesome drainage holes in the base. Anotheradvantage of using a basket is that it islightweight. If you are growing crops on aroof terrace, you need to be careful abouthow much weight you are introducing, sogrowing in this way makes sense.

Don’t be tempted to include too manyFrench bean plants in your baskets. Fivemake a really bushy group and will producea good crop of lovely, crisp, string-less greenbeans. When the plants start to flower,feed them weekly with a liquid manureor seaweed extract to ensure a long-lasting crop. To guarantee the verybest flavour, pick your beans justbefore you cook them.

Fresh, home-grown French beans take some beating. Deborah Schneebeli-Morrellplants some into an old wicker basket for a patio crop to remember

✔ Round, cylindrical basket

✔ Paper potter and newspaper

✔ Heavy-duty plastic garden

refuse sack

✔ Seed tray

✔ Dwarf French bean seeds

✔ Multipurpose compost mixed

3:1 with well-rotted manure

✔ Seed compost

What you will need

For more exciting projects get hold of DeborahSchneebeli-Morrell’s book Grow Your Own Vegetablesin Pots, published by CICO Books. You can ordera copy for £10.99 (usual price £12.99) by calling01256 302699 and quoting offer code ‘GLR4ZF’.Price includes free post and packing.

For more excitin

READER OFFER

The end resultmakes for a reallybushy and attrac-tive display – that’sedible!

Pick your beansjust beforecooking


STEP-BY-STEP

1 2

3 4

5 6

Planting a basket of dwarf French beans1Make some newspaper

pots using a paper potter.Alternatively use loo roll centres.Fill each pot with sowingcompost. Make a hole in thecentre with a stick, push onebean into each hole and coverwith compost.

2Water the beans and putthe pots into a coldframe or

bring inside and place on a coolwindowsill to allow the beans togerminate. Keep the compostmoist at all times.

3Push the plastic gardenrefuse sack well into the

basket and roll the edge aroundthe top of the rim. Make a fewslits in the bottom of the sack fordrainage.

4Place a few sheets of foldednewspaper into the base to

aid moisture retention. Now addthe well-mixed compost andmanure and fill the basket to thebrim.

5Unfurl the plastic sack fromaround the rim of the basket.

Roll it up and tuck inside,beneath the compost level so itis out of sight.

6Plant the young beans intothe basket, still inside their

paper pots, once the first tworeal leaves have emerged. Spacethem widely – about five will beplenty in this size of basket.

7Soak the beans with waterpoured from a watering can

fitted with a fine rose. Move thebasket to a warm, protected andsunny position to grow on. Keepthe compost moist.

8When flowers appear andthe small beans start to form,

you may need to give the plantssome support. Tying them withstring to a few canes will stopthem flopping over the edge ofthe basket.

7 8

For an excellent companionplant to beans try growingsome summer savory, whichlooks a little like thyme. Itwill ward off aphids with itspowerful aroma. The herbalso happens to taste greatwith beans!

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Birds aren’t just handsome visitors to the garden, they’re an essential part of theecosystem, helping to keep pests in check. Ann Somerset Miles explains how tomake your garden more bird-friendly

Garden birds are in decline. A numberof things have conspired to take theirtoll on bird populations: two severewinters, last year’s late spring and

a hot, dry summer; the removal of farmlandhedgerows with suitable nesting sites; greaterdensity of housing with smaller (and somewhaturbanised) gardens; and increasing traffic arejust a few that spring to mind. Yet birds crucial tothe biodiversity of any productive plot and, in thefar wider sense, are beneficial to the planet.

Years ago, gardeners and farmers were toldthat their gardens and farmland were vital to ‘save

the birds’. We were encouraged to plantbird corridors – native trees and shrubsthat would connect together areas ofcountryside rapidly disappearing underconcrete. Conservation starts at home!We may own our gardens and makethem our private refuge, but we do notown the air above it. The air connects usto the poles and the rainforests beyond.Look at any Atlantic weather chart and itsmovement of frontal systems – air massesmay impinge on us from north, south,east and west, each affecting our climateand, of course, conditions in our gardens.What can this tell us? Apart from weatherconditions, they indicate migration routes.We care for birds throughout the seasons,

they move on, and if they have visited our gardenmeanwhile, we know we have made a usefulcontribution to the global environment.

Vital linkBirds are part of the chain of biodiversity, sothat if one species disappears or declines, othercreatures flourish, often to the detriment of thegarden. For example, greenfly will rapidly multiplywhen there are fewer tits to devour them, while

Wildlife gardening

S

Feathertheir nestAbove: A family ofstarlings discusses thebusy day ahead

Below: While blackflyare a nuisance on theproductive plot, they’retasty fare for a thrivingblue tit population

Right: Get the balanceright and you maytempt the likes of thishandsome greaterspotted woodpeckerto your patch


Wildlife gardening

snails will have an easier ride when the thrush nolonger visits. Gardeners can help to redress thebalance of declining bird populations by creatinga bird-friendly garden – and it does not have tobe wild or messy! (Though I do love a little bit ofwilderness and miraculously it arrives here withoutany help from me! ‘Neglect’ my husband calls it.)

A garden that is well-maintained and friendlyto all wildlife will be even more beneficial to birds.All creatures are part of the chain. Sadly, youmay do so well that you experience the horrorof watching a sparrow hawk kill – a top predator,nevertheless, is always the sign of a healthy foodchain and environment.

Where to beginFirst you need to understand your locality:climate, soil, natural habitat and indigenousplants, plus the birds you are likely to see. Ofthe 250 regular British and Northern Europeanspecies, only about 30 are widespread ingardens. The annual RSPB Big Garden Birdwatchlists only 20 that are most likely to be seennationally but as it’s held in late January it doesn’tinclude possible migrants.

According to the RSPB Big Garden Birdwatch,the regularly spotted birds include the blackbird,blue tit, brambling, carrion crow, chaffinch, coaltit, collared dove, dunnock (hedge sparrow),feral pigeon, goldfinch, great tit, greenfinch,house sparrow, jackdaw, long-tailed tit, magpie,mallard, robin, song thrush, starling, woodpigeonand wren. On my own chart, I also include – andsee – blackcap, fieldfare, bullfinch, house martin,jay, little owl, pheasant, redwing, sparrow-hawk,swallow, swift, mistle thrush, marsh tit, grey-and pied-wagtail, green and greater-spottedwoodpeckers and the yellowhammer. And,in one very hot and insect-laden summer, wehad spotted flycatchers nesting and chiffchaffsfeeding in the hazels.

Of course, there’s wildlife in every gardenand only you can decide what ‘passers-by’ youwant to encourage. Birds don’t see each gardenas a single entity and our boundaries are nottheir boundaries with some breeding birdsrequiring larger territories than others. Trees

WHAT TO PLANTBirds need cover to give themprotection from predators.Any suitable plants that weprovide will supplementnatural food sources, offersuitable nesting sites and actas an additional supply ofnesting material. Evergreens

such as holly and ivy offerdense winter cover, whilesmall berry-bearing treesand shrubs are vital sourcesof foods. These includecotoneaster (pictured), elder,pyracantha, hawthorn andhoneysuckle. A tucked-awaywild area (if you can bear it)of bramble, nettle and teaselis ideal.

FEEDING STATIONSIt seems obvious to feedbirds during hard weatherconditions and doing socouldn’t be easier. A coveredbird table located nearsome undergrowth is finefor birds that like to perch,though some will preferto feed on the ground, sopositioned at the edge ofa border is good. Squirrel-

proof feeders can be hungfrom poles or branches of aconvenient tree. Rememberthat few birds fly direct toa feeding station but arrivein stages, flying or hoppingfrom branch to branch. Don’toverfeed because food willonly deteriorate. Fill feedersovernight, as birds feed earlyand keep feeders well clear ofprowling cats.

On the table feed mixedseed. Have a deep dishavailable into which suetfat balls or a lump of stalecheese can be slotted. Insummer live mealworms orearthworms can be fed inthis way. Dried fruit is lovedby blackbirds, as is spongeor fruit cake which attractsnumerous birds – particularlytits, robins and finches (no

need to feed them expensivecakes though!). Three typesof hanging feeder will beuseful: one with close wiremesh for peanuts (so thebirds have to peck at thenuts but cannot extract themwhole), a plastic feeder withfeeding ports and perchesfor seed, and an open balltube to hold suet balls free ofplastic mesh.

Continue to feed as springarrives because the birds willneed to build their strengthfor the months ahead

How to encourage visiting birds

Undergrowth fromshrubs and climbersprovide a refuge for

winged visitors such asthe woodpigeon


when feeding their youngnon-stop throughout thedaylight hours. If we want toencourage birds to stay andbreed during the summer(and also attract summermigrants) then they will alsoneed natural food, either inthe form of plant material– foliage, fruit, berries andseeds, or as the larvae and

insects that feed on plants.The latter is of course wherebirds’ help in the garden isso vital, cleaning up what wewish to eradicate. I’d rathersee the green woodpeckerfeeding on our unwantedants than use ant powder!

WATER SUPPLYBirds need to bathe as well

as drink, so offer them acontinual source of cleanwater. Birdbaths can besupplemented with waterstations elsewhere in thegarden. For these I use largeterracotta plant saucerssat atop tall chimney potspurchased from a builders’merchant. Keep themmeticulously clean and toppedup with fresh rain water.

VISITOR LOGBOOKKeep some record of thebirds you see and hear in thegarden or flying overhead.A chart can be created inMicrosoft Excel or Word, oruse ruled sheets of paperwith a list of anticipatedbirds down the side andthe 12 months of the yearacross the top, as picturedhere. List the species youanticipate, leaving space for‘occasionals’. It’s good when

the latter become a regular.Charts serve as a useful

record in trends; I’ve beenkeeping one for six yearsnow. It’s even more usefulif you also keep a gardendiary in which you writeabout weather patterns,what you plant and othercircumstances. A goodfield guide will help withidentification, or jointhe Royal Society for theProtection of Birds (RSPB).

and shrubs need to be the right kind. Essentialare climbers and thorny hedges. Lawns shouldnot be too shorn with, if possible, some left as‘meadow’. Damp areas of moist leaf litter will beappreciated. Under no circumstances should anychemicals, baits or sprays be used in the bird-friendly garden.

Systems thinkingThere is always a negative side of course. Somebird species can also inflict damage to plants andcrops: bullfinches stripping the damson buds,sparrows destroying pea seedlings, jackdawsuprooting newly planted onion sets, starlingspecking the almost ripe pears or pigeonsdescending onto the cabbages, for example.But then, we share the world and it’s up to usto protect what we sow and grow. That asideand apart from the benefits birds bring to the

garden, they are a joy to watch and thegarden somehow comes alive with theircontinuing presence.

Irritating though it might be whenblackbirds ferreting for grubs and wormsf|ling dead leaves every-which way, I wouldn’tbe without birds. If the species visiting youare increasing, you have the balance rightand will know you are doing your bit toprotect declining populations.

Birds, of course, are only one aspectof garden wildlife but probably the mostvisible. We should not ignore other vital

forms of wildlife; we need to consider the wholeecosystem. So later in the year, I’ll be writingabout the plight of the bumblebee, extendingmy eco-plot and the creation of a new wildlife-friendly potager.

Right: A song thrushsurveys his surrounds

from an elder

Starling damage ona pear. Any losses

should be thoughtof as part of the rich

tapestry of life!

Fruit and sponge cakes attract a wide variety of feathered friends

FURTHER INFORMATIONVisit the RSPB website at www.rspb.org.uk for a wealthof bird care advice. Their next Big Garden Birdwatchtakes place on over the weekend of 28-29 January 2012and you only need an hour to participate. Alternativelysign up for their regular e-newsletter which is full ofuseful tips: [email protected]


Pest and disease control

In a well-balanced garden, where rich soilis growing lots of healthy crops, pestsand diseases shouldn’t ever become toomuch of an issue. Prevention is alwaysbetter than cure and swift action if you

do spot a potential problem can make a worldof difference. Crop rotation, for example, whereyou avoid growing the same plants in the samespot for two years in a row, goes a long way topreventing the build up of pests and diseases inthe soil, while avoiding depleting the particularnutrients that each plant requires. And if youchoose a three of four-year crop rotation plan,you can be actively improving different aspectsof the soil, so that each crop is growing in itsideal conditions.

A lot of pest and disease prevention iscommonsense. You won’t go far wrong if youbear these four golden rules in mind:

KEEP YOUR HOE SHARPENEDAND USE IT REGULARLYUse it on your veg beds and at the base of fruittrees and bushes to keep them free of weedswhere problems can lurk. This also exposes anypests and their larvae to hungry birds.

FEED THE SOIL, SO IT FEEDSYOUR PLANTS FOR YOUA regular addition of organic matter such aswell-rotted manure or garden compost willprovide vital nutrients and help to improvethe soil structure, helping it to retain moisture.This way your soil will be getting more richand fertile every single year. In contrast, if yousimply add chemical fertilisers, your soil doesn’tbenefit and plants will put on weak, sappygrowth that is a magnet for aphids and thediseases that they can bring with them.

NIP PROBLEMS IN THE BUDIf you spot any infected plants clear them awayand burn them. While most organic mattershould be added to the compost heap, this isthe one exception as you don’t want to harbourdiseases and then spread them around yourplot in the future.

MAKE THE MOST OF NATURE’SHELP AND SAVE YOURSELF TIMEThere are legions of natural allies only toohappy to eat grubs, slugs, aphids and all theother pests, so try to achieve a balance andhelp them to get on with what they do best.This approach not only saves time and money– an organic garden full of different wildlife is amuch more interesting and enjoyable place togrow fruit and veg.

Robins carry ahealthy appetite forall manner of insectpests. A welcomesight indeed!


spot for two years in a row, gpreventing the build up of pthe soil, while avoiding deplenutrients that each plant requchoose a three of four-year cryou can be actively improvinof the soil, so that each cropideal conditions.

A lot of pest and disease prevcommonsense. You won’t gobear these four golden rules

KEEP YOUR HOE SHAAND USE IT REGULAUse it on your veg beds andtrees and bushes to keep thewhere problems can lurk. Thipests and their larvae to hung

FEED THE SOIL, SO IYOUR PLANTS FOR YA regular addition of organicwell-rotted manure or gardenprovide vital nutrients and hethe soil structure, helping it tThis way your soil will be getand fertile every single year.simply add chemical fertiliserbenefit and plants will put ongrowth that is a magnet for apdiseases that they can bring

NIP PROBLEMS IN TIf you spot any infected plantand burn them. While mostshould be added to the comthe one exception as you dondiseases and then spread theplot in the future.

MAKE THE MOST OFHELP AND SAVE YOUThere are legions of naturalhappy to eat grubs, slugs, aphother pests, so try to achievehelp them to get on with whaThis approach not only saves– an organic garden full of dimuch more interesting and engrow fruit and veg.

Robins carry ahealthy appetite forall manner of insectpests. A welcomesight indeed!

Knowing your friends andenemies in the garden helpsyou to protect your crops,so gen up with our at-a-glance guide. Words byJeannine McAndrew


S

Blue tits: These birds are anextremely welcome sight inany veg garden. The birdscan have 10 or 12 chicks inspring, and each one willneed to be fed around 150caterpillars a day. Manygarden birds eat pests,especially when they arefeeding young, so put upnesting boxes and growplenty of shrubs and trees toprovide shelter for them.

Hedgehogs: These pricklycharacters can eat their own

bodyweight in slugs andsnails every night, so do allyou can to encourage themand never use slug pellets.Hedgehogs are nocturnal soif you spot one wanderingaround in daylight thensomething is wrong. Pop itin a cardboard box and takehim to your nearest animalrescue centre. Visitwww.britishhedgehogs.org.uk for more details.

Amphibians: Frogs, toadsand newts are all carnivorousand slugs are one of theirfavourite foods. Even asmall pond, a metre (3.3ft)wide and 70cm (28in) deepin the middle, will soon becolonised by amphibians.Plant lots of cover around theedges for when the youngare ready to leave the waterand you may find that theychoose to live near to yourpond all year round. Ensure

it has at least one gently-sloping side and it will attractmore birds and hedgehogsto your plot too.

Ladybirds: Ladybirds andtheir larvae are vital alliesfor any kitchen gardener.They eat blackfly andgreenfly in vast quantities– and will also happilymunch through insecteggs and small caterpillars.

Researchers at CornellUniversity in the UnitedStates discovered that

just half a pint glass full ofladybirds will clear a 280m2

(3,013sq ft) area of aphids.

Hoverfly: The larvae ofthese insects feast on aphidsalthough the adults, likebees, feed on nectar andhelp to pollinate gardenplants. They look ratherlike wasps, which also do alot more good around thegarden than many peoplerealise. Although wasps canbe a pest in autumn, whenthey can get drunk feedingon fallen fruit, they spendmost of the year eatingaphids and caterpillarsand feeding them to theiryoung. As a general rule,yellow-and-black stripedinsects are the gardener’sfriend, so if you spot anyin your greenhouse, openthe windows to let them flyfree rather than reaching fora swatter!

Make the most of yournatural allies and they’lldo plenty of work for you.

Many pests have evolved toreproduce quickly, bearing thousands of

offspring a season if left unchecked. Mostof their predators, however, take a wholeyear to have their young. This means thatif you use a chemical spray that kills a pest

and its predators, you’ll soon haveplenty more pests but no naturalenemies to keep them in check,

leaving you much worse offthan you were before.

Did you know?

Thegood


Pest and disease control

Slugs and snails: Thesemolluscs are the mainbugbear of most gardeners,but the good news is thatplenty of animals are onlytoo delighted to devourthem. Hedgehogs, blackbeetles, frogs and toadsare all voracious predators.What’s more, barrier methodssuch as copper tape workextremely well, as doesgoing on a hunt with a torchon damp evenings. Anothereffective control is to investin nematodes, which yousimply water onto your bedsand compost heaps. Thistreatment can remove 90%of the slugs and if you repeatit around six weeks later toget any that you missed, youcan transform your wholegrowing season.

Carrot root fly: You maynot realise your crops

are affected by thisproblem until

you come toharvest

them and you see thatmaggots have tunnelled allthrough the roots. The adultfemale fly can smell carrotfoliage from long distancesand lays her eggs in thesoil nearby. As soon as theyhatch, the tiny larvae burrowunderground and into yourcrops. You can minimise theproblem by only thinningcarrots in the evening (whenthe flies are dormant) andgrowing carrots in betweenrows of onions and garlic.You can also buy carrot flynematodes. But perhapsthe easiest form of controlis to cover your crops withfine netting or Enviromesh.Ensure that the bottom is wellsecured or the flies will get inunderneath!

Rabbits: These animals cancause devastating damage,and young plants areparticularly at risk. Rabbitsare ‘crepuscular’, meaningthey tend to feed at dawnand dusk when they areleast at risk from predatorsand you are unlikely to spotthem. Normal fencing is notenough as they can soon dig

underneath, so you caneither dig a trench

around your veg garden andensure the fence is buried16cm (7in) under the groundall around at an angle of 45degrees, or invest in someelectric fencing. Rabbits canjump over fences up to 1m(3.3ft) tall.

Aphids: Also known as plantlice, these unsightly pestssuck sap from plants andsecrete a sticky liquid thatis loved by ants, who ‘farm’them, moving them to goodfeeding grounds such asyour young plants. As wellas distorting new growth,aphids can spread nastyviruses. Unless held in checkby predators or disease, asingle aphid has the potentialto produce 600 billiondescendants in one season.Females are born pregnant

and give birth to live youngthat in turn can start givingbirth to more in just 20 days.Luckily these soft-bodiedinsects are very easy to dealwith. Simply wash them offyour plants with a fine jet ofwater from your hosepipe– this kills them instantly. Ifyou don’t have a hosepipe, asimple squirt of washing upliquid in a water-filled plantmister will do the trick. Neitherof these methods will harmthe aphid’s natural predators.

Cabbage white caterpillars:Sadly there are lots ofcaterpillars that enjoy eatingbrassicas as much as wedo. You can often spot theeggs laid in clusters on theundersides of leaves. Youcan rub them off if you onlyhave a few plants, but if youhave a whole row or more ofcabbages, cauliflowers andbroccoli to protect, the easiestthing is to make a simple cagefrom bamboo poles and putnetting or Enviromesh overthe top. You can buy ‘Build-a-balls’ to make your own cages(£13.95 for 12) from supplierssuch as Harrod Horticultural(0845 4025300,www.harrodhorticultural.com).

These common pests can affect your crops,but if you spot the problem early or use simplebarriers you can easily keep them at bay.

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KPest and disease control


Powdery mildew: If leavesor stems on your plantssuddenly get a white coating,almost as if they have beendusted with icing sugar,this is a sure sign that yourplants are under stress.Usually brought on by lackof water, powdery mildew isa common sight on squashplants towards the end of thegrowing season. Remove anddestroy any infected leavesor shoots and ensure plantsare well watered and given agenerous layer of mulch.

Blight: In a damp, warmsummer, this fungal diseasecan affect potatoes, tomatoesand other members of thesolanum family. The first signswill be brown rot affectingthe leaves and stems, and ifleft unchecked, it can spreadto your crops. Keep a closeeye on your plants in humidweather and remove andburn any affected parts thatyou see. If this illness hasbeen a problem in the past,ensure you follow a strictplot rotation scheme. Investin blight-resistant varietiessuch as ‘Sarpo’ potatoesfrom Thompson &Morgan (0844 2485383,www.thompson-morgan.com).

Damping off: It can beheartbreaking to have a wholetray of seedlings suddenly keelover and die. If this happens

to you then damping off is themost likely cause. This fungalinfection can strike overnightand often without warning. Youcan go a long way to preventit happening by not sowingseeds too close together andby keeping your seedlings wellventilated. If you are reusingpots or trays, ensure you havecleaned them thoroughlywith Jeyes Fluid and use tapwater rather than rainwater onvulnerable young plants.

Rust: Easily identified byred spots on the leaves, thisdisease is quite common. Itis unlikely to be very serious,though it can reduce thevigour of your plants. Rustcan be a sign that you’veused too much nitrogen-richfertiliser, causing vulnerablegrowth. Remove any affectedleaves, where possible, anddestroy them.

Most diseases don’t take hold if plants aregrowing strongly, but these are the mostcommon problems that you may spot

The ugly

Cucumber mosaic virus:Despite the name, thisdisease doesn’t just affectcucumbers but a wholerange of leafy veg. Symptomsinclude yellowing leavesthat can become curledand distorted, and stuntedgrowth, leading to reducedyields. Your hoe is yourgreatest ally in this particularfight, as the virus can be

harboured in innocent-looking weeds such asgroundsel and chickweed,from where it spreads to yourcrops. You can even spreadthe virus via your tools andhands, so be sure to washthem thoroughly betweenjobs. Buy seeds of plantsknown to be resistant to thisvirus if it has been a problemfor you in the past.

Cucumber mosaic virus

Rust

When digging your veg beds you willsometimes spot a cluster of slugs’ or snails’

eggs. Each one is around 2mm (0.1in) indiameter, transparent and squishy. Pop themon your bird table if you have one, or simply

squash them with the back of a trowel. Whenyou buy plants from garden centres you may

spot small yellow or white balls inthe compost. These are sometimes

mistaken for eggs but are in factslow-release fertiliser.

Did you know?

Biological pest control suppliers

✦ Buzz Organics: 0845 0509409, www.buzzorganics.co.uk✦ Gardening Naturally: 0845 6800296, www.gardening-naturally.com✦ Ladybird Plant Care: 0845 0945499, www.ladybirdplantcare.co.uk✦ Nemasys: www.nemasysinfo.com


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P056.indd 14 07/04/2011 15:35


Squash and pumpkins – members of thecucurbit family – promise a colourful and tastygrowing experience. Benedict Vanheems digs

deep for these charismatic performers

S

Veg grow guide

cucurbitsCuriousIf you’re looking for diversity, colour and

showmanship in the kitchen garden, youwon’t find many better performers thanthe cucurbits. This unconventional family

of fruiting vegetables has some of the mostprized and talked about siblings. There’snothing quiet, shy or retiring about thesebold and brazen beauties!

Cucurbits include squashes, marrows,courgettes, melons and loofahs. This articleconcentrates on the showiest of the cucurbits:the hefty orange whoppers of pumpkins, plus


Veg grow guide

gather your haul and bring it under cover to store.Winter squashes are a highly useful crop, notonly because they offer such a diverse range ofeating, but because of their long-storing ability.Store harvested fruits in an unheated roomindoors and they’ll keep until late winter or eveninto spring the following year – a fulsome bridgeto span the infamous ‘hungry gap’ of Februaryand March.

Completing the line-up are the summersquashes. These squashes are grown in exactlythe same way as their winter cousins; the onlydifference is in when the fruits are harvested.Rather than cutting the fruits in one go at the endof the season, summer squash are cut as theyreach an appropriate size, in just the same wayas courgettes. Young and tender is the mantrahere, and fruits cut while small will have the mostintense flavour. They make a welcome additionto the usual courgettes and come in a range ofbright, summer colours. Expect to cut summersquash as early as July and enjoy them, fruit byfruit, until the first frost.

Growing prettySquashes and pumpkins have a hearty appetite,which means ground preparation is one of thekeys to success. Dig in plenty of organic matter(and then some more!) to ensure rampant andproductive plants. It is quite common to level offsemi-mature compost heaps and set plants intothe top to trail down; it’s simply impossible toover-feed these ravenous fellows.

If you intend to grow more than a handfulof plants then barrow well-rotted compost ormanure onto your pumpkin/squash patch and digin to incorporate. Most people will be satisfiedwith just three or four plants. In this instance,there’s little point spreading your compost farand wide – instead, dig out individual plantingpits where each plant will grow and concentrateall that richness where the plants will sit.

Prepare planting pits by digging holes foreach plant 30-40cm (12-16in) wide and deep. Filleach pit with well-rotted compost or manure. Youcan also use compostable kitchen scraps, whichwill start to rot down in the pits to create a rich,moist root environment for your plants. Fill your

On the trailMost squashes and pumpkins tend to trail,though there are bush varieties which formstockier plants. The stems of trailing squash willsnake through the plot through the course ofthe summer, though you can easily encouragethem to sit where you want them to lie. Pegstems in place or use the occasional stick todivert stems away from other crops. Anotheroption is to coax trailing stems up trellising orsome other support. Trained over an archway,squashes make a very attractive garden featurewhile keeping plants off the ground.

the curious mix of shades, shapes, patternsand textures that arise from winter and summersquashes. All of these plants grow in much thesame way, thriving in the very richest of soils andthe very sunniest of sites. If you can offer thesegrowing conditions then you will be assured ofan impressive take of fruits over the course of thegrowing season.

Family traitsSo let’s meet the family members. First in lineis the pumpkin, perhaps the most impressivefruiting vegetable, with fruits often reaching epic,knee-buckling proportions. Many village showshold competitions for the biggest pumpkin, suchis their immense capacity for growth. Pumpkinsare a great choice to get young gardenershooked on growing. Select the right varietyand keep plants well fed and wateredand there’s no reason you shouldn’t havea shot at producing king-sized fruits. Ofcourse, size isn’t everything and there areplenty of varieties with flavour tothe fore; pumpkins are delicious roastedor made into the autumn staple ofpumpkin pie.

Next in line are the winter squash. Likepumpkins, winter squashes are left on theplant right through the summer to harvestonce the foliage dies back in autumn. Theyare then enjoyed throughout the winter(hence their name). This makes for a veryeasy care routine – other than wateringwhen needed you can pretty much take aback seat until October when it’s time to

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Winter squashes comein all shapes and sizes– a feast for the eyeand stomach!

Veg grow guide


pits then top them off with a 10-15cm (4-6in) layerof soil to leave a slight hillock at the soil surface.Set pits 60-100cm (2-3.5ft) apart, depending onthe variety you want to grow. Trailing varieties willneed more room than bush types. Prepare yourpits earlier in the spring, though there’s no harmin doing so now if you haven’t already got roundto it. The soil will settle over the next few weeks intime for planting out.

Of course, cucurbits will fruit their hearts outif this sound ground preparation is combinedwith the sunniest position on the plot. Squashesand pumpkins may be vigorous in growing habit,but to guarantee ripe fruits they need to besun-kissed. This is particularly the case for wintersquash such as the butternuts, which are heavilydependent on the longest possible growingseason coupled with a fine, warm summer.

Sowing squashThe early days of squash and pumpkin are exactlythe same. Start the growing cycle off in April orearly May by sowing the large seeds individuallyinto 7cm (3in) plastic pots or large modules ofmultipurpose compost. Sow the seeds on theirsides and push them down into the compostso that they sit about 2cm (1in) below the

3Alternatively start seedlings offdirectly outdoors. Thin to leave the

strongest seedling at each position andkeep protected from cold weather.

5Plants are hungry and thirsty fellows,so give them copious amounts of

feed if you want large fruits, and waterin dry weather to sustain rapid growth.

2Remove pots from their propagatoronce the seedlings have appeared.

Germination should take about a week.Pot the young plants on as they grow.

STEP-BY-STEP Growing squash and pumpkins

4 Young plants may need protectionfrom birds. An upturned hanging

basket works well for this and canact as a support for a covering ofprotective fleece.

6While not essential, some gardenerslike to apply a mulch of straw or

some other organic matter to lock in themoisture and protect developing fruitsfrom damp soil.

1Sow individual seeds into 7cm (3in) potsof multipurpose compost. Water the

pots then place them somewhere warm,such as a propagator, to germinate.

surface. Water the pots then place them into apropagator to germinate. You could also useclear grocery bags, secured over pots with anelastic band, to create the humidity and addedwarmth they need.

Germination will rapidly occur at anytemperature above 15°C, with 21°C as anoptimum. Any sunny warm windowsill orgreenhouse will be suitable, so long as it doesn’tget too cold at night. Within a week to 10 daysthe plump seedlings will have pushed throughto put on surprisingly quick growth. Move theseedlings on as they fill their pots into larger10-12cm (4-5in) plastic pots.

The earlier the start you can give yourseedlings the better. Early April will guaranteea long growing season without the plantsbecoming too gangly before they are safe to beplanted outside. Planting into prepared pits orground can occur from mid May, so long as allchances of frost have passed and the plants havebeen properly hardened off. Keep an eagle eye

Squash seedlingsare a good, easy-to-manage size

BEN

KE

TARO

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Cucurbits will fruit their hearts out if soundground preparation is combined with thesunniest position on the plot


Veg grow guide

on weather forecasts – any mention of cool nightsaround planting time should be a warning todelay for another week. Harden the young plantsoff by placing them outside for gradually longerspells as planting day approaches.

Outside chanceYou can also try sowing seeds directly outdoorsfrom early May. Set two to three seeds at eachplanting position and cover with a cloche tocreate a warm microclimate. A jam jar, clearPyrex mixing bowl or upturned half drinks bottle

will work as well as a full-sized cloche. Once theseedlings are up, remove the smallest to leavethe strongest in place to grow on. Removecloches once the seedlings have grown on a bitand the weather no longer threatens frost.

Planting of pot-raised seedlings may bedelayed to as late as early June further north. Thisisn’t a problem; caution is preferable to cavalierchancing that might see plants hammered bya snap, late-season frost. Set bush varieties ofsquash 60-75cm (2-2.5ft) apart and trailing squashor pumpkins 60-100cm (2-3.5ft) apart, dependingon the variety. To ease the transition to outdoorconditions a temporary cover of horticulturalfleece or cloches will pay off. These can beremoved after a week or two. Don’t be surprisedif plants sulk for some time following planting.This is quite normal and as soon as a few days ofwarm, sunny weather have occurred plants willperk up and start to romp away.

Squashes and pumpkins are rather space-hungry plants. But while they undeniably take

up a lot of room, especially when left to trail atground level, they will give a weighty harvest,challenging other crops for the total yield takenper unit area. Nevertheless, the prudent kitchengardener will make the most of available groundby sowing a quick-growing crop in-between theyoung plants. Radishes, spring onions, loose-leaf lettuce, baby turnips and other salads areexcellent contenders and will be out of theground before the chunky leaves of your squashcrowd out the ground later on in the summer.

Feeding frenzyWith plants well underway there’s now littleelse to do than wait for the fruits to appear – anexciting moment indeed! Until plants fill out andhide the ground from view it is worth hoiking outany weeds. While these chunky plants will hardlynotice the diminutive weeds around them, it isgood plot hygiene to keep on top of weeds andstop them spreading or setting seed for futurecrops. By the end of summer the pumpkin patchwill be a thick mass of leaves and weeds won’tstand a chance.

Pumpkins and squashes are exceptionallyhungry plants. If you’ve prepared the groundthoroughly with ample organic matter then thisshould suffice. That said, if you’re after the verybiggest fruits for exhibition then there’s no harmin applying an additional liquid feed. Pick onethat’s high in potash (one for tomatoes wouldbe ideal) and feed every week or more. Up theconcentration for the biggest plants to sustaintheir vigorous growth.

Watering will undoubtedly increase productivityin dry summers, though past experience hasshown that a rich planting pit offers a good sourceof moisture as well as nutrients. Water early in themorning, if possible, to allow excess moisture toevaporate away during the warm of the day. Try to

Plant squash intosheet mulching fora weed-free result

Above: Keep plants wellwatered, especially oncethe fruits begin to swell

Set plants into theirfinal positions only afterhardening off properly

Right: Plants quickly findtheir feet to grow withimpressive speed

To ease the transition to outdoorconditions a temporary coverof fleece or cloches will pay off


SQUASH AND PUMPKIN SEED SUPPLIERS✦ Jungle Seeds: 01491 614765, www.jungleseeds.co.uk✦ Kings Seeds: 01376 570000, www.kingsseeds.com✦ Marshalls: 01480 443390, www.marshalls-seeds.co.uk✦ Suttons: 0844 9222899, www.suttons.co.uk✦ The Real Seed Catalogue: 01239 821107, www.realseeds.co.uk✦ Thompson & Morgan: 0844 2485383, www.thompson-morgan.com✦ Unwins: 01480 443395, www.unwins.co.uk

PumpkinDILL’S ATLANTIC GIANT:The one to pick ifyou’re attempting arecord breaker. Thesepumpkins have reachedover 1,000lbs in weight!Jungle Seeds

AMAZONKA: Try thispumpkin if space istight. The compact,semi-bush plantsform slightly flattenedfruits that are ideal forroasting. Suttons

INVINCIBLE: Thisunusual pumpkinboasts a steely blue skinand deep orange, verytasty flesh. It stores well,keeping until March.Marshalls

SquashBUTTERCUP: A wintervariety formingmedium-sized fruits ofexceptional flavour. Thedusky skins open toreveal a smooth, orangeflesh. Jungle Seeds

PATTISON BLANC: Thesaucer-shaped fruitsof this Patty Pan-typesummer squash areborne as profuselyas the best of thecourgettes. The RealSeed Catalogue

SWEET DUMPLING:What a stunner! Thisbeauty has cream-coloured skin with asplattering of green.The meal-sized fruitskeep well and have agood flavour. Unwins

UCHIKI KURI: A veryeasy to grow varietyof winter squash. Theorange skinned fruitsbear flesh with a sweet,nutty flavour. KingsSeeds

BUTTERNUT: For manythe ultimate in squasheswith a creamy, densetexture and fine flavour.Needs the sunniestspot for best results.Thompson & Morgan

WHAT TO GROW

keep water off the leaves, aiming the hosepipe orwatering can spout in-between the leaves to wetthe ground beneath.

If you are after bigger fruits then cover overthe apex of lateral stems (where the side stemsemerge from the main, central stem) with soil.This will stimulate additional roots and an extrasource of nutrients and moisture. For this reasonstems left to trail on the ground are likelier toyield larger fruits than those trained upwardsonto supports.

Harvest timeSummer squash will be ready to pick from July,as soon as the fruits have reached an appropriatesize. The yellow, scalloped-edged ‘Patty Pan’, forexample, can be cut away from the plant oncethey reach 10cm (4in) in diameter. Don’t let thefruits of summer squash swell too large – you maythink you are getting more food for your effortsbut this will only slow production of further fruitsand the flavour of those you take will be wateryand insipid.

Pumpkins and winter squash are left to growon throughout the summer and are taken all atonce in October. Pumpkins have a slightly thinnerskin and less dense flesh than winter squashes.As a result they do not store as well and aregenerally best used up by the end of November.Allow fruits to mature and the skins to set in situbefore cutting away from the plants.

Winter squash are the ones to grow for theirlong storage life. To encourage the hard skinsneeded for trouble-free storage leave the fruitson plants for as long as possible. Most plants(including summer squash and pumpkins) arelikely to develop a little mildew by autumn andthis is perfectly normal. Let the fruits grow on andcontinue to season in the warmth that remainsfrom the remnants of summer. Winter squash areready once they have become fully coloured andthe skins are hardened. Bring them in towards theend of October (they can shake off a light frost)

and store at a temperature above 10°C – a spare,unheated bedroom would be perfect. Soundsquash kept in the right conditions should lastuntil March.

With such an incredible range of squash andpumpkins to try there’s every chance you willbecome a fully signed-up member of the cucurbitfan club! Delve deep to explore the fringes of thisfascinating group of crops and you’ll be rewardedwith colourful and flavour-packed fruits.

The leaves of pumpkinsand squash are likelyto be knocked backby mildew by latesummer, revealing thefruits beneath

Above: Winter squash‘Invincible’ ready tocut and store


Poultry

House in orderFor many of us the start

of the winter we’ve justexperienced must rank

among one of the most severe formany years. The harsh weather inmany parts of the country gavekeepers a real headache as theystruggled to protect their birdsfrom the ravages of snow, windand rain. Severe weather like thisinevitably means that generalmaintenance and repair jobs getput off.

Nevertheless, these sorts ofjobs can’t be ignored for toolong and now that spring is wellunderway we must redoubleefforts to ensure our poultrysetups are in top-notch condition,ready for all the activity to come.Of course, some of the damagecaused has been serious; I recentlysaw a goose pen where thesnowfall had been so heavy thatthe roof timbers had given waycausing it to collapse. Fortunately,no harm was caused to theoccupants but putting it right isgoing to be a major job.

Assess and repairSo now’s the time to get cracking!You should waste no time incarrying out a thorough evaluationof the condition of your housing,fencing, any electrified wiring,feeders and drinkers; everything,in fact, that could have taken apounding over winter. Fence posts,gateposts and wire mesh shouldbe repaired and/or replaced asnecessary. These should be yourpriority as they are all potentiallyvital in terms of keeping your stocksafe from predators.

Posts that have workedthemselves loose will need to bere-set, while all gate and doorhinges, bolts and wire must bechecked for security of fixing andcontinued effectiveness. Metalcorrosion is best dealt with now,

It’s time for a spring clean. Terry Beebe offers his practicaladvice on the jobs that chicken owners need to be tackling now

solution and typically proves to bea false economy.

There are different grades ofroofing felt available (of varyingthicknesses) and my advice isto use the best you can afford.Opting for a heavy-duty grade isgoing to represent a better betthan fitting the thinner stuff sooften used on modern shed roofsto save money. Although roofingfelt is guaranteed, I’ve never knownanyone who has actually claimedfor it not lasting the length of timequoted. Of course, felt isn’t theonly roofing option. More modernalternatives, such as Ondulinesheeting, represent a practical ifmore expensive alternative. Theridged sheets of this material areeasily fastened onto the roof framefor a durable solution.

The wood on the coops willneed to be treated with somesort of protective coating. Mostof these products are chemical-free which generally means thatin practice it’s best to applythem annually. There are plentyof alternatives on the market, all

too. Never forget that a fox willtake advantage of a surprisinglysmall chink in your poultrydefences and only needs tostrike once.

Safe houseWhen making post-winter checksand repairs on poultry housesstart with the roof. The felt thatcovers many of these is vulnerableto bad weather, especially if it’salready endured a few winters. Theheat during the summer monthsdries the material out, eventuallyturning it hard and brittle. Thisis then exploited by the freezingtemperatures of winter so thatcracks, splits and associated leaksare inevitable. If it’s not effectivelyrepaired, then hardened anddamaged felt will start breakingaway in ever larger sections, soalways replace the lot. Patchingis rarely a practical, long-term

Healthy birds arehappy birds. Athorough springclean now will setthem up for thewarmer weatherahead

Broken runfences, gates andwiring must all bemade good


available from DIY stores. Checkfor any signs of rot in the housestructure and for broken wireon windows. The wood behindhinge plates can become soddenand rotten, so be aware of thispossibility too. It means thatretaining screws will become alltoo easy to pull out.

Fixtures and fittingsCleaning inside the poultry houseshould really be classed as normaldaily/weekly maintenance. Butat this time of year it’s well worthgiving the interior an extra thoroughgoing over. My method for doingthis involves removing all the internalparts of the house (perches, nestboxes, droppings trays, feeders anddrinkers) first of all for cleaning. Thisthen creates enough space to scruband disinfect everything with agood-quality, safe product. I scrapeall the perches and if I find any thatare simply too encrusted, I replacewith new.

Using a power washer is a greatway to clean the inside of thehouse but this needs to be done

into every nook and cranny, literally.Finally, use Stalosan disinfectanton the floor and in the nest boxesbefore replacing the clean beddingwith dust-free, softwood shavings.By taking these straightforwardprecautions you will be helpingto guard against future insectproblems and will be killing thebugs and bacteria that live on thehouse floor, as well as helping tominimise the unpleasant smellof ammonia.

At this cleaning stage, alsocheck for signs of any rats ormice; look for evidence of ratdiggings nearby and underneaththe sheds, plus gnawings aroundthe openings and pop holes.These signs are normally prettyeasy to spot. Mice tend to leaveless obvious signs, but they are stilla pest that requires dealing withbefore the weather warms up. Lookfor droppings and small holes andin dark, hard-to-get-at areas, checkfor nests made from feathers andany other soft materials that mayhave been lying around.

Outside runs and pensPoultry runs can become ‘sour’ ifthey are not dealt with regularly.As the weather gets warmer thiswill cause a smell and, to preventthis, the run floor needs to havethe top couple of inches skimmedoff. The material gathered inthis way is best consigned to thecompost heap.

Dig down into the ground andturn the top few inches. If you arelucky enough to own a rotovatorthen use it to make short work ofwhat can otherwise be a back-breaking and lengthy job. If youleave the ground relatively level,the birds will have a great timedigging and hunting for insects

on a reasonably warm day as theinterior needs to dry out before thechickens can return. Putting birdsback into a house that’s still wetcan be a recipe for disaster, evenif it’s clean. If you can, house themsomewhere else until their primaryresidence is completely dry.

One vital job not to forgetbefore the birds return is tospray all components and thehouse interior against red mite.Use a quality treatment (asrecommended by your localsupplier), and make sure it’s forced S

Repairingold, weather-damaged roofingmaterial shouldbe a priority

A leakingautomatic drinkerinside the henhouse is no joke.Frost damage isa common causeof trouble


Poultry

and will also carry out the finalsurface finishing in the process.As a rule, I always try to turn thesoil at least once a month and adda sprinkling of Stalosan while I’mabout it to help freshen-up thewhole area. Regular digging likethis in the run is another effectiveway of helping to prevent parasitesand disease.

Drinkers and feedersFreezing conditions are likely tohave damaged and split plasticdrinkers, which will need to bereplaced. If you use an automaticdrinker system then it’s importantto ensure that the tops are secure;ice can push up the seals, causingthe mechanism to flow continuallyand flood. I advise close inspectionof these units, just to be on the safeside. They may look okay outwardlybut it’s best to be sure. I alwaysstrip mine down and reassemblethem carefully then I can be surethat they’re in perfect workingorder. There’s nothing worse than anewly-cleaned, dry pen becomingflooded by a faulty drinker.

All standard drinkers andfeeders should be thoroughlycleaned and disinfected. In fact,this is something all keepersshould be doing on a regular basisto minimise the risk of infection.

Rubbish clearanceProlonged periods of bad weatheralways create problems withdisposal of dirty, wet bedding.The local tip will take some but ifyou try to get rid of large amountsthere’s a risk that they’ll turn you

away, claiming that you’re dealingwith commercial waste.

Leaving the litter in neat pilescan often be the simplest solution,especially when the weather isreally bad. Never forget, though,that such piles can presentattractive nesting places forrodents and other undesirables.So leaving heaps hanging aroundthe place for prolonged periodsis never a good idea. By all meanstransfer some to your compostheap and you might also like totry the rotting material on yourallotment or veg patch.

While you’re in a clearing frameof mind, take time to remove anyrubbish that there may be aroundyour sheds; make a point ofgetting rid of anything that couldpossibly be used by rodents asshelter. This is also a great timeto start setting the traps and bait,to make sure that you get therodent situation well under controlboth for your own health andalso the protection of your birds.All keepers should be runningpermanent rodent bait and trapsas a matter of course; this reallyis the only way that anyone canmount a serious challenge againstthese destructive and potentiallydangerous pests.

By keeping the areas around

Further informationFor more in-depth informationon poultry keeping subscribeto Practical Poultry. Takeadvantage of an introductoryoffer and receive your firstthree issues for just £3 whenyou take out a subscription by

direct debit! Call 01959 541444 and quote ‘GIedit’. Practical Poultry includes down-to-earth,practical articles covering all aspects of thisfantastic hobby; everything from health andwelfare, housing, sourcing and buying birds toowners’ stories, Q&As and reports from theactive Practical Poultry forum.

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SuperSumatra!Full buyer’s guide forthis striking stunner

HOUSERULESWhat makes theideal hen house?

Chicken-friendly vetsWhy new training could benefit us all

Red mite

Incubation

Get cracking nowto beat the pests

Prepare for spring hatchingwith our top tips guide

your poultry house clear, clean andtidy, you’ll go a long way towardseffectively limiting the activities ofrats and mice. These creatures lovedark places to hide and will thrivein and around old bags of beddingand waste feed. The simple ruleis to remove all temptation. Inpractical terms, the effectivecontrol of rodent activity is a majorachievement for all domesticpoultry keepers these days.

With your poultry house spicand span, aim to keep it that waywith a regular cleaning regime.Your chickens will be happier andall the healthier for it.

Above: Thiskind of messwill prove anirresistibleattraction to ratsand mice, so getit cleared

Left: Plasticdrinkers becomebrittle with ageand are easilycracked by ice

GI - Fancy Feed May11.indd 2 07/04/2011 15:38


Veg grow guide

If you think there’s little more to salad leaves than lettuce, think again. Lucy Hallidayreviews a sample of the many leafy wonders available to the home grower

Salad can be one of life’slittle pleasures and, equally,somewhat of a disappointment.Some of the most satisfying

meals I have ever eaten have beensalads; a highlight last summer wasgoing out into the garden with a bigbowl, a fork, balsamic vinegar and oliveoil to indulge in a salad so fresh it nevereven entered the house!

Alas, we are all too often forcedto except the second-rate collationsoffered to us by supermarkets and inrestaurants. Lacking in imagination,the vast majority of these salads spoilthe good name of what should be anexceptional and flavoursome treat.Growing your own salad leaves allowsyou to enjoy them as they were meant

to be – as fresh as possible. But that’snot the only reason you should give ita try. If you’re looking for a crop that’seasy to grow and as varied and exotic asyou like, you should definitely give saladleaves a spin.

Crisp salad leaves will grow justabout anywhere and no matter howmuch space or time you have, there’ssomething you can try. Perfect forbeginner and expert alike, just a few keypointers will set you up for marvellousreturns. In fact, some salads are soeasy it’s mostly a case of ‘just addwater!’. Salad leaves are also one of thefew crops that’s possible to produceyear round with little fuss. From thetraditional and tasty ‘Little Gem’ tothe exuberant leaves of hardy oriental

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An fine harvest of mixed leaves promisesan interesting and varied salad

Home-grown salads makefor fantastic eating!


mustards, there is nothing stoppingyou cutting fresh leaves from January toDecember. If you’re an impatient sort,there are even salads that will meet yourtaste buds within a matter of weeks.

Of course, the best thing aboutgrowing salad leaves yourself is thatyou won’t have to settle for a blandsupermarket iceberg or a pre-packed,air-freighted disaster with browning andbruised leaves. Choice is somethingthere’s plenty of in salads: from sweet,crisp, juicy leaves with bright splashesof colour, to tangy and peppery flavoursthat will really liven things up. If yougive them a try you’ll be amazed at thecomplex palate of flavours and coloursthat a simple collection of salad leavesoffers. So, take your pick from the menubelow. Try something different andserve up a salad to be proud of.

Salad basicsWhatever salad takes your fancy, thereare a few general rules that are useful toknow before exploring the wonderfulworld of a leaf less ordinary. All of thesalad leaves discussed here will happilygrow in the open ground or containers.To container-grow most crops, lettuceincluded, you will need to make sureyou provide the gardener’s perfectparadox of moist but free-drainingsoil. To do this add a layer of grit tothe bottom of the container and use a

good, quality compost with plenty oforganic material.

Containers for salad leaves can beas shallow as 15cm (6in) but pots thatare a little deeper than this will bebetter for moisture retention. Hangingbaskets and window boxes will provevery fruitful, so long as they are keptwell watered. If salad leaves are allowedto dry out their growth will be seriouslystunted and, if your crop survives, itwill give leaves that have a more bittertaste. Drying plants out can also makethem prone to bolting (when they sendup flowering stems). The moral is thatreligious watering is the major key tosuccess. A top up feed of liquid fertilisermid season will keep container cropswell fed.

Most salad leaf crops can be sownin rows, in modules for planting out,or can simply be grown for croppingyoung by broadcast-sowing seed overa finely-raked patch of soil or containerof compost. Container growing willprobably exclude weeds, but if you aregrowing in open ground then keep yoursalad patch as weed free as time allows;being thirsty, fast-growing plants,salad leaves won’t appreciate thecompetition. You will have to fend offthe pest competition too, from the likesof slugs, snails, aphids and caterpillars– all have the potential to wreck yourcrop. Now what to grow?

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The best thing about growing salad leaves is thatyou won't have to settle for a bland supermarketiceberg or a pre-packed air-freighted disaster

Fresh and juicyCorn salad: Also known as lamb’slettuce, corn salad is a sweet juicy,easy-to-grow salad forming neat rosetteof leaves that can be harvested whole.Successional sowings of seeds 1cm(0.5in) deep from August to October willkeep you supplied with winter greens,though I also like to sow some in earlyspring for an extra ‘hungry gap’ harvest.

Pea shoots: Pea shoots are an easyindoor cheat for those without any growingspace at all. Just sprinkle some dried peasfrom the supermarket into a tray or pot ofmoist compost, poke them in to the soilabout 1cm (0.5in) deep and wait for theirjuicy shoots, which taste of fresh peas.

Salad burnet: It may look likerather delicate, but salad burnet is adrought-tolerant plant, making it agood selection for the more forgetfulgardener. A hardy perennial which willreadily self-sow, its little leaves have ahint of cucumber to taste. Sow at thecooler times of spring or early autumn,remove any flower heads that appear,and crop regularly.

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Hanging baskets will needregular watering but can be

handy where space is limited


Veg grow guide

serves the common ‘Little Gem’ lettucevery well). Seeds can be station sownoutdoors in March, leaving 10-15cm (4-6in) between each station and coveringwith roughly 1.5cm (0.5in) of soil.Seedlings will emerge after a week andonce they are large enough to handle,thin them to 25cm (10in) apart. You canstart cropping leaves from your plants assoon as they are 15-20cm (6-8in) tall. Dothis by either cutting off the green topsor taking longer cuttings from a sectionof the plant at a time. New growth willsoon sprout from the base.

Purslane: For a salad leaf with a realdifference try purslane (right), a succulenthalf-hardy annual with a salty and slightlysour taste. Sow seeds 1-2cm (0.5in) deep

Tangy and tartSorrel: Lemony and sharp but withsucculent leaves, sorrel is a perennial.Although you can keep plants formore than one year, the leaves will gettougher so many grow it as an annual toavoid this. Sow direct in March or Aprilleaving up to 30cm (12in) between plant,depending on the size of the leavesyou are after. From June to Novemberyou can pick individual leaves or givethe whole plant a hair cut to a fewcentimetres/an inch above ground levelto stimulate fresh new growth.

Wild rocket: Also a perennial, wildrocket is another excellent, tangy saladleaf with delicate frond-like leaves thatmake a pretty garnish. Sow seed thinlyanytime from early March to Septemberand thin to 10cm (4in) or so betweenplants. Pick individual leaves or takewhole plants as needed. Keep this saladespecially well watered as rocket easilygets a bit flower-happy in dry weather.

Salty and sourAgretti: Agretti (right) is known by acolourful array of other names including:roscano, barba di trate and Russianthistle. It’s the salad leaf of the momentand much sought after. A huge hit withItalian restaurants, it’s rarely grownthanks to its very short shelf life andpoor germination rate. Agretti growsas a small bush with long chive-likeleaves that have a very pleasant, mildflavour with a hint of sourness. They aredelicious, especially braised with garlicand olive oil (a treatment which also

from April to July for harvests from Julyto October. A sunny spot is best and thisplant will tolerate dry conditions, thoughonce again watering greatly improvesflavour and yield. Purslane is also a healthychoice as it contains more omega-3 fattyacids than any other leafy crop.

Eye-catchingOrache: The variety ‘Triple Purple’(opposite, top) is a really stunning andvigorous salad plant. The intensely purpleleaves are tender when young and theplants, if left to grow, reach a metre inheight, looking great in an ornamentalboarder. Sow seed from April onwards forcrops until September. The leaves tastelike slightly salty spinach.

Mustard: Oriental mustards comein a range of great colours and leafshapes, sometimes growing to sculpturalproportions. Try ‘Red Giant’ (picturedopposite), ‘Osaka Purple’ or ‘Korean RedLeaf Mustard’ to add a larger scale colour

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Hot and pepperyNasturtiums: Not only a joy to beholdwith its glowing orange, red and yellowblooms, but also a salad staple round atmy house. The unique peppery tang of thenasturtium is delicious in a mixed salad,topped off with a few of their edible flowers.Nasturtiums thrive best in poor, sandy soilwhich is easy to achieve by mixing extra sandor grit in to a container compost mix. Sowseeds 1cm (0.5in) deep and 30cm (12in) apartin rows, or closer in a pot. Pick the freshestyoung leaves and always inspect them forblackfly before serving!

Land cress: An equally peppery saladpunch comes from this plant with very differentrequirements. Land cress also has that superwatercress-like kick but prefers cool, moist soilin part shade – great news for less productiveparts of the garden. Sow seeds thinly 1cm(0.5in) deep from March to August in rows 15cm(6in) apart. Thin plants to 10cm (4in) as soon asthey are large enough. Plants for overwinteringcan be sown from August to September.


statement to your salad patch. Sow Aprilto August for peppery leaves that can beused small or shredded when large.

Chard: ‘Rainbow’ chard is a must forany colourful salad dish coming in shadesfrom bright red through pink and orangeto yellow and brilliant white. ‘Bulls blood’chard has a gorgeous deep-red colour inboth its stems and leaves. Station-sownbaby leaves can be picked regularly fromeach plant, with plants lasting a wholeyear into the colder months, given regularcropping to keep their leaves small andtender. Sow single seeds from March andthin the resulting cluster of seedlings orprick out to another spot. Container-grownchard will need at least 30cm (12in) depthfor its large taproot. Young beetroot leavesalso make a related colourful salad snack.

1Different salad leaves have differentsowing requirements, so check seed

packets for precise instructions. Most cut-and-come-again types are sown 1cm (0.5in)deep into rows 10-20cm (4-8in) apart.

2Cover the seeds back over and waterup and down the rows using a fine

spray or watering can fitted with a finerose. Seedlings usually appear withinabout five to ten days.

3If the seeds were not sown thinly thensome thinning out will be required.

Pull or pinch out seedlings to leave aninch or so between each individual plant.This will give them more room to grow.

4Salad leaf plants can also be startedoff under cover in modules of

compost. This is handy to get a headstart or to have a supply of plants readyto set out as soon as another crop hasfinished and is cleared.

STEP-BY-STEP Growing salad leaves

5Thin module trays to leave one plantper cell. Plant the young plantlets

out as soon as they have filled theirmodules. Don’t delay or else plants canbecome nutrient-starved and stressed.

6Broadcast-sown seed will create athicker carpet of salad leaves rather

than neat rows. Leaves will need regulargoing over to harvest those that are readyand to encourage new growth to follow.

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Know-how

Softwood cuttingsare a reliable way

to propagate leafyherbs such as mint

Right: Some herbs suchas mint will readily root

in water. Simply placecuttings into a jar of

water on the windowsill


Herbs go a long way to flavouring foodwith their natural aromas and sensational

tastes. Keep them coming with thesesimple propagation techniques

Propagationstations

Growing herbs from seed is not alwaysappropriate or even possible. Anumber of herbs either do not set seed

or do not come true from seed. These includemany varieties with variegated or decorativefoliage, or particular flower colours. As is thecase with shrubs, producing a mature plantfrom seed is often a slow process.

Thankfully there are other methods we canemploy which use established plants to producefurther identical ones; these can sometimes beplanted into their permanent growing positionsimmediately. The only means of reproducing theparent plant exactly is by vegetative propagation,which is most commonly done by cuttings.

Taking cuttingsA cutting is a length of stem that under suitableconditions is able to produce its own roots andform a new plant. The different types ofcuttings include softwood, greenwood,semi-ripe, hardwood and water. Softwoodcuttings root quickly but easily wilt, sogreenwood cuttings are preferable. Woodyshrubs can be propagated by hardwoodcuttings taken during the autumn or early winterand then rooted outside in a sandy trench.

Most cuttings can be rooted into purecoarse sand, but for better results use one ofthe following mixes: equal amounts of peatsubstitute and sharp sand; equal amounts ofpeat substitute and perlite (made from volcanicrock); or equal amounts of peat substitute,perlite and coarse sand. Peat substitute retainsmoisture and encourages roots; perlite retainsmoisture and air; and sand aerates the mix andsupplies bulk and density, making the insertedcutting more secure.

Cuttings must not be allowed to wilt. Takethem early in the day, before the sun is hot, andkeep them sprayed with a mist spray before youinsert them into the cutting mix. Once they areinserted, cover the container with a plastic bagto retain moisture until the cuttings have rooted.


Divide healthy,disease-freeestablished plants

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Plant divisionMany herbaceous plants andsome shrubs can be propagatedby dividing the parent plant. Themain advantage of this methodis that you reproduce the motherplant exactly (with seed there isoften some variation). You will alsobe starting off with a good-sizedplant that will quickly establish.Select healthy specimens, freefrom imperfections or disease.

The method of divisiondepends on the type of plant andits root system. In most cases allor most of the plant will have tobe dug up, divided as requiredthen replanted into fresh soil.Fork compost into the areafrom which the plant was dugto revitalise the soil.

Other propagationmethodsSowing seed, division and takingcuttings are the most commonmethods of propagating plants,but some herbs lend themselvesto other techniques. Theseinclude layering, by runnersand suckers, or by division ofbulbs and corms. The methodof propagation will depend onwhat herb you have and wantto propagate.

Layering and dropping use thenatural tendency of some woodyplants to develop roots and newshoots at points where their stemscome into contact with the soil.Suckers are produced by someshrubs and trees, such as sweetbay. They originate from theunderground root system or at

Semi-ripe cuttings are ideal for propagating woodyherbs such as sweet bay or rosemary. Trees and

shrubs are usually propagated from semi-ripe wood. Semi-ripe cuttings should betaken from mid to late summer when the shoots are starting to ripen and becomeharder. Hormone rooting powder encourages the cutting to root and is available fromgarden centres. These cuttings will normally root by the following spring.

1Take 10-15cm (4-6in)cuttings from the current

season’s growth. Strip off anyleaves from the lower part ofthe stems.

2Insert the base of thestem into hormone

rooting powder; knock offany excess. Insert about2.5cm (1in) into the compost.

3Space the cuttings atintervals around the edge

of the pot. Keep the mixturedamp and cover with a clearplastic bag to retain moisture.

Semi-ripe cuttings

This is the best type of cutting to take from most herbs.Softwood cuttings should be taken when the soft spring

growth has firmed up in late spring or early summer. Take the cutting from the tip of ahealthy stem – it may vary in length according to the plant. The tip of the cutting will befloppy and the base just firm enough to insert into the cutting compost. It is importantto keep the cuttings moist at all times and to avoid handling them too much.

1Select cuttings 5-10cm(2-4in) long from the

tip of a healthy, non-flowering main stem. Stripthe leaves off the lowerhalf of the stem.

2Remove the growingtip at the top of the

cutting then make a holein the cutting compost mixand insert the cutting. Firmaround the cutting gently.

3Label and water thecutting. Place a plastic

bag over the pot to preventit from drying out. Keep thecompost watered as thecutting takes root.

Softwood cuttings

Know-how

1In the spring dig a hole large enough to sink theplant by 7-10cm (3-4in).

2Place the plant (here a rosemary) into the hole andcarefully push the soil back around the stems to

bury them slightly.

3Keep the plant watered during dry spells and liftin the autumn, when roots should have formed on

the stems. Cut each one from the main plant and potthem up as individual plants.

Dropping a woody herbDropping is a traditional method of propagatingwoody plants. It involves digging a hole deep enoughto half-sink the plant into the soil. Where the stemstouch the soil a new root system will be produced.Once established the new plants can be detachedfrom the parent and planted in a different site.

More tips on herb growing canbe found in Easy to Grow! Herbs,published by Collins & Brown. Readerscan buy a copy for just £4, includingfree UK p&p. Call 0870 7871613 andquote reference ‘CH1411’.

READER OFFER

the base of the main stem of amature plant and may appearas leafy shoots near the base ofthe parent plant or as much asseveral feet away. They producetheir own root system and canbe detached from the parentplant, dug up and planted asnew plants.

Many herbs, such as chives,grow from bulbs or corms.These multiply over the years toproduce a clump that can thenbe split up into individual bulbsand planted to make new plants.

Clumps of fibrous rootscan be lifted and dividedjust after flowering or in earlyspring to form smaller plants,each with plenty of roots and

shoots. Using your hands or aknife, ease or cut pieces fromthe outside of a dug up plant.The centre of the plant can bereplanted but discard old andwoody centres. Once the planthas been divided, either re-potthe small clumps or, in the caseof large clumps, plant themdirectly into prepared soil.

Some herbs, such as mint,produce rhizomes – stems thatrun from the plant at groundlevel or underground. Rhizomesproduce both roots and shootsalong their length that look likeseveral separate plants but are,in fact, all connected. Dividerhizomes after flowering or inspring.

Chives can bedivided every nowand then to bulkout numbers


GI May 11 LBS Horticulture.indd 2 06/04/2011 16:36



Scare tactics

One of the main problems allotmentgrowers face is protecting theirprecious fruit and veg from

garden denizens great and small. Birds loveto plunder tender shoots and succulentfruits, so there’s always a quest for devicesto shoo them off humanely… and whileyou’re about it, you might as well makethem decorative.

These bird scarers, made of colouredwire hung with tiny bells, look great fun inthe veg patch, especially in spring and earlysummer when everything is still very smalland green. But while we humans love thebright, shiny colours and tinkling bells, it’s adecidedly scary combination for birds, whowould really rather steer clear!

The galvanised steel wire used in thisproject is available from most gardencentres, while anodised craft wire can befound in jewellery and craft stores or onthe internet. Variations of the bird scarerin the step-by-step can be made usingdifferent colours of anodised craft wireand by varying the flower shape. Why nottry making several of these cheery scarersbefore mounting them on bamboocanes and letting them brightenup whole rows of produce?

Fed up with pigeons and other birds nipping at your hard-earned crops? Scarethem away in style with these pretty bird scarers. Tessa Evelegh explains

how to make them. Photography by Debbie Patterson

For more practical projects check out Tessa Evelegh’snew book Gardening in No Time. Published by CICOBooks, readers can save £2 on the normal price of£14.99 and order a copy for the special price of £12.99,inclusive of free p&p. To order call 01256 302699quoting ‘GLR5KV’ or visit www.cicobooks.co.uk

For more pract

READER OFFER


Tools✔ Wire cutter/pliers

✔ Short piece of dowel, slightly

thicker than a bamboo cane

✔ Short piece of thinner dowel

Materials

✔ 2.8m (9.5ft) of 2mm/12-gauge

galvanized steel wire for the spring

✔ 1.5m (5ft) of 1mm/18-gauge galvanized

steel wire for the flower shape

✔ 2.8m (9.5ft) reel of 1mm/18-gauge

green anodised craft wire

✔ 8.2m (27ft) reel of 0.56mm/23-gauge

lilac anodised craft wire

✔ 1.5m (5ft) fine florist’s wire

✔ Bamboo cane

✔ 6 small bells

What you will need

oo


Making a bird scarerSTEP-BY-STEP

1Wind the 2mm steel wire around thethicker dowel, leaving a tail of straight

wire before you begin winding. Wind allthe way down the dowel, pull the coiloff the end and continue winding untilyou have created the length you need.Remove the dowel.

2Now make the flower by shaping thethinner-gauge wire. Using 1mm steel

wire start by leaving a long ‘stalk’ thenmake an open spiral of wire for the centre.When the spiral’s almost the required size,use your fingers to form bends in the last‘round’, creating the flower outline.

3Wind the green craft wire around thethinner piece of dowel until you’ve

made a coil long enough to cover thecentral spiral of the flower. You may needto pull it down the dowel as you go, sothat you can carry on winding. Slip thegreen coil off the dowel.

4Make a lilac coil in the same way,by winding it around a piece of the

thickest gauge of wire. Make it longenough to go around all the ‘petals’ ofthe flower shape.

5Now slip the green coil onto theflower, feeding it all the way through

to the spiral at the centre as shown.6In the same way, slip the lilac wire coil

onto the wiggly part of the flower – thecurved ‘petal’ shapes around the outside.Keep each loop of the lilac wire as tight aspossible to create a strong impact of colour.

7Slip a short piece of fine florist’s wireinto each bell and wire the bells in

place at intervals around the flower asdesired.

8Slip the flower ‘stem’ into the topof the wire spring that you made

in step 1. In this way the flower shouldbob around slightly in the breeze.

9Fit the other end of the spring over thebamboo cane, winding the tail around

the cane to fix it on firmly. To use, simplypush the cane into the ground. Make furtherbird scarer to create a floral swathe of colour.


Know-how

People’s lifestyles are often writtenall over their faces. A 40-a-daysmoker who likes a drink in the

evening, likes to eat out and prefers towatch sport rather than participate willlook distinctly different from someonewho drinks moderately, doesn’t smokeand eats a healthy diet. In short, if weput rubbish into our systems we’reunlikely to function as well as weshould. Well, the same can be said forplants. If the soil is lacking in nutrientsyour plants won’t get the botanicalequivalent of a balanced diet and theywill struggle as a result.

To address this problem it is bestto work towards a healthy soil that’steaming with microbes and the nutrientsthey free up. Of course, it can be hard toachieve this ideal living soil when we arecontinually cultivating a vegetable plotto get as much from it as we can. So just

Organic growing

FERTILEGROUNDThere’s no need to fork out on expensive fertilisers.Dave Hamilton looks at how common garden herbs andweeds can be turned into plant-nourishing liquid feeds

as we might take a vitamin pill to balanceout any deficiencies a plant can be feda liquid feed to keep it in good form.It goes without saying that healthierplants are less likely to become proneto pests and diseases and will producea better crop than plants which aremalnourished.

When to feedGreenhouse and polytunnel plantswill need a helping hand from a liquidfeed. If you are growing in any kindof container you will also need to adda feed from time to time, no matterwhat you are growing. The bonus of aliquid feed is that it gives plants a doseof nutrients in a form they can easily

absorb. This extra boost can be appliedat precisely the time when a plant needsto expend more of its reserves, forexample when flowering or fruiting.

If you wish to buy in a good all-roundcommercial feed, then the best in myopinion is a seaweed-based feed suchas Maxicrop. Seaweed feeds have theright balance of nutrients, includingmany minor nutrients essential to aplant but often lacking in the soil orother fertilisers. For those worriedabout animal welfare or contaminantsin manure, it is also a good alternativeto using animal-based feeds.

Home-made feedsEvery year I make a big batch of comfreyand nettle feed. I may be in the minority,but I even find the potent smell it cangive off rather pleasing, as I know it’s aforetaste of the good it will do my plants.The combination of the deep roots ofcomfrey and sprawling roots of nettlemean that together these two plantsseek out a range of nutrients in the soilbefore storing them in their leaves. Usingthese leaves to make your own liquidfeed means you will pass on most of themajor and minor nutrients needed tomaintain a healthy plant.

To make a feed from the leavessimply grab as many nettle and comfrey

Healthy, well-fed soils mean

healthy, nutrient-rich crops

Greenhouse crops like tomatoes will relyon you for regular liquid feeding

Grow some comfrey plants for a readysupply of feed-producing leaves


1This less smelly alternative tomaking a liquid feed requires a little

more time to prepare. Start by placingone bucket inside another to checkthey fit.

2Now make holes in the base of thetop bucket using a drill or garden

skewer. Space the holes one or twoinches apart at regular intervals acrossthe base.

3Put the buckets back together andplace your chosen leaves into the top

bucket. You can use many leaves asidefrom comfrey and nettle – check thechart for detail.

STEP-BY-STEP Make an odourless feed

4In this case a combination of nettle/comfrey feed is being prepared.

With leaves in position, weigh themdown and allow to stand for two weeks.

5Collect the feed from the bottombucket. Tip it out or for a more

permanent setup install a water butt-style tap, available from homebrew orhardware stores.

6Water down the concentrated liquidbetween 8:1 and 20:1, depending on

the strength required, and apply. 20:1is good as a general feed, with 8:1 forfruiting plants.

leaves as you can and pile them into thebottom of a bucket or water butt. Top upwith water to submerge the leaves thenallow to stand for two weeks or more. AsI say, this method will give off somethingof a whiff, so I wouldn’t make it too closeto your neighbour’s fence! I usually applyit neat as the mixture is already dilutedbut, of course, the more concentratedyou make it the more you will have towater it down.

Weed-based feedsSome common garden weeds areknown to be mineral accumulators– a fairly self-explanatory term thatdescribes the way they draw up mineralsfrom the soil to accumulate in theirleaves. To use weeds to make a liquidfeed it is important to take plants thathaven’t gone to seed; use them at theleaf stage. Weeds can be gathered fromthe garden or your local surroundings

NEEDED FOR

Nitrogen (N)

Leaf growth andphotosynthesis

Yellow leaves,stunted growth,premature leafdrop

ChickweedCloversDandelionNettleVetches

Urine, chickenpoo, worm casts,farmyard manure

Phosphorous (P)

Roots, stems,germination

Stunted growth,purpling of plant,small crops lackingin flavour

Comfrey, DockSheep’s sorrel, Clovers,Lemon balm, Fat hen/ Lamb’s quarters(Goosefoot family)

Chicken poo, rockdust, worm casts,farmyard manure

Potassium (K)

Flowers and fruit,disease resistance

Scorching on edgeof leaves

ChickweedComfrey (goodsource), TansyDock, Borage

Wood ash*, wormcasts, farmyardmanure

DEFICIENCYSYMPTOMS

SUGGESTEDWEED/HERB

FEED

ALTERNATIVEFEEDS

(sometimes called potash)

* Limit to 1-2 applications a year and avoid using on acid-loving crops

CH

ART

REPROD

UC

EDIN

PART

FROM

GRO

WYO

UR

FOO

DFO

RFREE

BY

DA

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HA

MILTO

N(G

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Dilute home-made liquid feeds thoroughlyfor use on young plants and seedlings

and added to the compost to enrich it,or they can be turned into a liquid feedas already described. The chart aboveshows the three major nutrients and theweeds that they can be found in.

Feeds are like a smoothie for yourgarden; it will give them that extra boostand ensure they are strong enough towithstand the majority of pests anddiseases a garden can throw at them inany given growing season.


For further information contact: Janssen Animal Health, 50-100 Holmers Farm Way, High Wycombe, Bucks, HP12 4EG, UK. Tel 01494 567555 Fax 01494 567556 EMail [email protected]

aboutWorming

Free-range and deep litter birds are most at risk from common poultry worms which can cause:IllnessReduced egg quality

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Easy to use -7 day in feed treatmentKills all stages of common wormsZero egg withdrawal for chickens

Proven poultry wormer now in a 60g pack for the domestic poultry keeper.

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Soil Magic adds Lime, Iron,

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Love the soil you grow in

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One Litre label. Size 60mm x 150mmTop right hand corner - square cut.

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DIRECTIONS: SHAKE BOTTLE WELL BEFORE USE.Add required amount to water and stir well. Only apply diluted. Do notexceed the appropriate application rates. Apply using a fine sprayer. Tomaximise effectiveness ensure product is applied thoroughly to upperand lower leaf surfaces on a weekly basis. Reseal container after use.Protect from frost. Store out of direct sunlight above 0c and below 30c.

For best results repeat spray weekly.DILUTION RATES:1 litre concentrate to 500 litres of water.2ml concentrate to 1 litre of water

NOTE:� Do not mix with any other product – mix only with water.� Ensure spraying equipment is washed out before use.� Do not spray open blooms as some staining of petals

may occur. � Some varieties may be susceptible to scorch, especially in

hot conditions (advisable to spray small trial area first).PRECAUTIONS: Keep concentrate off skin and away from eyes. If splashed in eyes wash in clean water. If hands or bare skin incontact with concentrate for prolonged period, wash in soapy water.Keep concentrate out of reach of children, animals and wildlife.Keep concentrate away from foodstuffs and aquatic life.

CONTENTS: Foliar Lattice, Linear Sulphanate, 0.37% w/w IronChelate (Fe), 9.57% w/w Nitrogen (N), natural products.

Patent information available at www.sbpi.co.ukManufactured by STAN BROUARD LIMITED,

Landes du Marche, Vale, Guernsey, Great Britain, GY1 3FE.Tel: +44 (0) 1481 252521 - Fax: +44 (0) 1481 253154

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PLANTINVIGORATOR

The Environmentally FriendlyGrowth Stimulant and Pesticide

PLANT INVIGORATORManufactured in Guernsey by STAN BROUARD LIMITED

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� Biodegradable� Non toxic

� Suitable for use throughout the year

� No harvest interval

� Plant stimulant foliar feed for strong healthy growth

� Controls plant pests including Whitefly, Aphid, Spider Mite and Mealybug

� Physical mode of action

� Can control mildew

1Litre

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Controls a wide range of important pest speciesincluding Whitefly, Aphid, Spider Mite and Mealybug

For use on all edible and ornamental crops

Controls a wide range of important pest species that includes Whitefly, Aphid,

Spider Mite and Mealybug. Due to the physical mode of action these pests will notbecome resistant to SBPIif correctly applied.

� Pests will not become resistant� Helps prevent chlorosis and improves leaf colour

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Delivery charge (per delivery): £3.95 UK mainland.£6.50 non mainland. £8.00 Ireland.

60 years growing vegetables withoutdigging or weeding. ASK for FREE GUIDE More than 60 years ago, our lambing yard was used to grow tomatoes commercially. Each year after lambing, tomato seedlings were simply planted in holes through the straw ground covering! No digging, weeding or feed. Learn this technique for many other applications, using carbon mulches and no sheep! Useful from a single bed to acres. SO EASY (Free PDF by e-mail £1 printed copy by post or FREE copy with orders)

Keep slugs, snails and roots in check. Shocka mats are a capillary matting impregnated one side with copper. As well as deterring slugs & snails, plant roots do not penetrate into the mat. Ideal for protecting plants in greenhouse or cold frames.3 x 5 m £10.9x 10 m £30

Solux2 is the safer alternative to glass around the garden - greenhouse, sheds, cold frames, cloches. Easily cut to size with a hobby knife. Twin walled PE panels.Flutes create an obscuring effect.4 panels 60 x 120 cms* £152 panels 120 x 120 cms* £15

Wondermesh® is an extra fine garden mesh that is an environmentally friendly method of protecting crops from a wide range of insects, birds and other garden pests. Lasts up to 10 years.3.25 x 5 m £25Pack 9 pegs £9

Environmentally friendly plant stimulant & pesticide SB PIant Invigorator is a unique 3 in 1 pesticide / mildewcide / foliar nutrient all in one and is biodegradable, non-toxic and environmentally friendly. Used by professional and amateur growers and gardeners worldwide to invigorate and promote a wide range of healthy plants (including fruit and veg.). 500 ml (Makes 50 L) £131L Super Conc. (makes 500 L) £49

for protecting plants in greenhouse or

P078.indd 14 07/04/2011 15:52


As gardeners the thought ofthrowing away garden orkitchen waste is nothing short of

criminal. Even putting this material outfor recycling by the council is a needlesswaste of a valuable commodity thatcould be working wonders for yourgarden. If you do no more than turn thisinto compost for use as a top-dressingor mulch around established plantsyou’ll be doing a world of good. Thenatural actions of rain and earthwormswill work it down into the soil andspread its goodness to the plants’roots. Using your compost in seedtrays and pots will show even morerewarding results.

Some gardeners consider compostingto be easy – just toss everything ontothe heap and leave it to rot! However,you will never produce good compostthis way as your bin needs to becarefully managed. The key word whencomposting is ‘variation’. Varying compostbin ingredients and spreading these asthin layers or mixing together is the trick.A thick layer of just about anything willcause a compost heap to stall, blockingeasy airflow and allowing putrefaction tocreate an awfully slimy mess rather thanthe lovely crumbly stuff we want.

It is important to include greenlayers and brown layers. Green layers

comprise weeds and kitchen waste, theouter leaves of cabbages and so on.Brown layers are woody substances suchas twigs, cut down raspberry canes,artichoke stems and so forth (theseshould be chopped up into short lengthsto speed decomposition). The brownlayer can also include wood productssuch as paper and cardboard, whichwill break down and produce compostmuch faster than twigs. Paper from yourshredder is ideal while cardboard shouldbe torn into small pieces.

Any compost bin or heap mustproduce and retain heat because thisis the only way to kill any weed seedslurking in the mix. There’s nothing worsethan top-dressing with compost andspreading weeds all over your plots!Some kind of cover is needed to keepthe heat in and the worst of the rainout. Your compost bin contents needto be damp but not soggy. If your lid iscompletely waterproof then occasionallywater your heap with a watering can orhose. For bins without a lid lay an oldpiece of carpet on top of the rottingmaterial and secure in place with acouple of bricks or similar.

One important thing to rememberis that many local authorities providecompost bins at a highly subsidisedprice, or in some cases even free. Pay a

Compost bins are an essential part of any food-growing operation.With so many bins to choose from, Mike Woolnough proves that agood composting setup certainly needn’t cost the earth

visit to www.getcomposting.com andtype in your postcode; the site will showyou what’s on offer locally and helpyou to decide which composting binto buy. So let’s see what’s available forcomposting enthusiasts.

Product review

Feed the earth

COMPOST MAKERRather than waitingfor bacteria andmicroscopic life tomove in and takeup residence inyour compost bin,kick-start the naturaldecompositionprocess byintroducing this mixof microbes and enzymes. Simplytip the contents of a sachet into a fullwatering can, stir and water over yourcompostable material. It works well withany composting system.

FEATURES✓ Speeds decomposition✓ Natural microbes and enzymes✓ Five sachets included

Price: £4.99Supplier: Gardening Naturally (08456800296, www.gardening-naturally.com) S


Product reviewProduct review

WOODEN COMPOSTER �

This is a great-value traditional compost bin,constructed from FSC pressure-treated timber slatsthat slot into one another for easy assembly. Oncethe compost has fully matured the framework isbroken down and shoveling can begin. Ideally you’dfill it through the growing season, leave to matureover winter then use the contents in spring beforestarting over.

FEATURES✓ Rot-proof timber✓ Sturdy construction✓ Attractive, traditional look

Price: £34.95Capacity: 510 litresSupplier: Two Wests& Elliott (01246 451077,www.twowests.co.uk)

COMPOST BIN KITWhat could be better than atraditional wooden compostbin? A plastic bin that never rots!Constructed from recycled plastic,these bins are available in green,black or terracotta. The sectionsclip together for easy assemblyand each bin comes completewith lid and bottom access door.

FEATURES✓ Insulating plastic construction✓ Choice of three colours✓ Optional plastic cover

Price: £130Capacity: 1,000 litresSupplier: Link-a-Bord (01773590566, www.linkabord.co.uk)

BEEHIVE COMPOSTER

Your compost heap doesn’t have to lookunsightly. Supplied in a natural pressure-treatedfinish, you can then paint this composter if youwish, in the colour of your choice, to make it anattractive focal point. The top hinges for fillingand there’s a door at the base for harvestingthe compost.

FEATURES✓ Natural finish✓ Paint for final look✓ Hinged top for filling

Price: £89.95Capacity: 495 litresSupplier: Primrose(0118 9459999,www.primrose.co.uk)

COMPOST TUMBLERCompost tumblers are a relatively new ideaand this model is a good, value-for-moneystarter. Simply crank the handle once or twicea week and compost can be produced in justthree weeks. Tumblers are particularly goodat composting grass cuttings, which cansometimes turn into a black, gooey mess intraditional compost heaps.

FEATURES✓ Very easy to empty✓ Rapid composting time✓ Zinc-coated steel frame

Price: £79.99Capacity: 200 litresSupplier: Greenfingers(0845 3450728,www.greenfingers.com)


COMPOSTAIR �A compost bin you can roll up andstore when not in use – there’s anovel idea! The composter comesin a roll so that you can adjust thesize of your bin to suit the size ofyour garden. The egg box-like conewalling incorporates a breather tubethat allows air into the heart of thedecomposing matter to speed up theprocess and keep contents sweet.

FEATURES✓ Maximises aeration✓ Adjustable diameter✓ Optional lid available

Price: £39.95Capacity: 300 litresSupplier: Harrod Horticultural(0845 402 5300,www.harrodhorticultural.com)

ROTOL COMPOST CONVERTER D

This Rotol compost bin is, in my opinion,better than the more traditional ‘Dalek’-style plastic bins. Simply fill, wait for thecontents to mature, then lift off thecontainer, reposition and begin fillingagain. The neat stack of compost leftbehind is then ready for use. For bestresults run two of the bins, so thatone can be filling while the otheris maturing.

FEATURES✓ Excellent entry-level bin✓ Regular Gardening Which?

'Best buy’✓ Easy to manage

Price: £24.95Capacity: 220 litresSupplier: Original Organics(0808 1209676,www.originalorganics.co.uk)

CLASSIC TRIPLE WOODEN COMPOST BINTraditional composting setups comprise three bays inconstant use – the first for filling with fresh material, thesecond maturing and the third full of lovely compost readyto use. Once the third bay is empty the contents of thesecond can be forked into it and the second bay filledfrom the first, ensuring a constant flow of material. All thisturning helps to aerate the contents and accelerate thecomposting process.

FEATURES✓ Enormous capacity✓ Sliding panels for access✓ Can be added to in future

TIMBER COMPOST BINThis bin comes completewith a cover to keep thecontents neither too wetnor dry. Also includedis a good-sized bottomdoor for harvesting yourcompost. This systemallows a continuous flow– weeds, stalks and otherorganic material fed intothe top, with the maturecompost shoveled outfrom the below.

FEATURES✓ Inclusive compost cover✓ Easy access to compost✓ Pressure-treated timber

Price: £89.95Capacity: 756 litresSupplier: Ferndale Lodge(0844 3140043,www.ferndale-lodge.co.uk)

Price: £197.25Capacity: 1860 litresSupplier: The RecycleWorks (01254 820088,www.recycleworks.co.uk)



Worm cast

You have to admire the wholecomposting process – it’s theultimate in recycling, taking garden

waste from the vegetable patch, breakingit down and then using the result to growmore vegetables. Wormeries are a greatway to compost, especially if space islimited. This month’s project provides avery quick and easy way to make your own.It takes less than an hour to build and costsaround £15 if you have a source of worms.This is also one project that the kids willdefinitely want to be involved in!

One of the advantages of a wormeryover a traditional compost heap is that asyou feed your worms they will break downthe food into two main constituents. Firstlythere will be a liquid by-product that canbe tapped off from the bottom of the bin.This is great as a fertiliser for the garden (it’svery strong though, so make sure you diluteit 10:1 before using it on your plants). Yourworms will also create some excellent andrich compost.

As you feed your worms the bin willgradually fill up. Once it is full remove thetop 10-15cm (4-6in) where your worms willbe living, empty out the compost downto the gravel layer and then replace yourworms, remembering to add more food.Use that beautiful compost around thevegetable garden and witness the fantasticresults that follow.

Give worms the starring role with this quick-to-assemble composting project.Andy Cawthray shows us how to make a wormery from a plastic dustbin

Brandling wormsare the stars of thiscomposting method

Feeding wormsGO FOR IT!✔ Egg shells✔ Coffee grounds and teabags✔ Fruit and salads✔ Vegetable peelings✔ Annual weeds

BEST AVOIDED✗ Grass clippings✗ Meat or fish (attracts vermin)✗ Diseased plants✗ Weed seeds or plant seed heads

Tools✔ Drill and drill bits

✔ Tape measure

Materials

✔ Plastic dustbin

✔ Water butt tap fitting

✔ Gravel or small pebbles

✔ Small piece of permeable matting

✔ Spent compost for bedding material

✔ About 400 compost/brandling

worms (these can be bought from

retailers or by digging in a muck heap)

What you will need

arco

alalalalalal

ap)


How to make a wormerySTEP-BY-STEP

1Drill a hole large enough for the water butt tap fitting.Set this about 5cm (2in) from the base of the bin and

then securely fit the tap into position. This will allow youto siphon off the nutrient-rich liquid that’s produced.

2Drill a pattern of breathing holes into the lid of the bin.Just like us, your worms will breathe and need plenty

of fresh air to stay healthy and active. The holes will alsokeep the bin contents fresher.

3Move the bin to its desired location, remembering toraise it slightly so that the tap is accessible to collect

the liquid. Fill the bin with 8cm (3in) of gravel and/orpebbles to act as drainage and a reservoir for the liquid.

4Cover the gravel/pebbles with the permeable matting.The matting will allow the liquid to pass through while

keeping the compost and worms from clogging up thegravel layer. Feed it right to the edges of the wormery.

5Add a good 10cm (4in) layer of spent compost. Thecompost layer will form the bedding for the worms,

helping them to get settled in and comfortable. Make ahollow in the centre of the compost then add your worms.

6Add a selection of food scraps (see table opposite).Bury some and partly cover the surface with the

remainder. Now place a thick sheet of moist newspaperover the food to keep the light out and moisture in.


Grow guide

TEAtotalIf you’re like most Britons,

you spend at least a smallpart of your day standingover a kettle, dunking a

teabag in a mug and eventuallysipping a warm liquid known astea. In this country we’ve beenpractising this art for hundredsof years, roughly since Garway’sCoffee House in London startedmarketing the beverage as ahealth drink in 1657. But thetradition in the Far East goesback even further. According tolegend, the second emperor ofChina Shen Nung discovered thedrink when tea leaves blew into

his cup of hot water way back in2737 BC.

Japan began growing its owntea around the sixth century,following the migration ofBuddhist monks. China remainedthe unrivalled centre of the teatrade though, until the popularityof the drink in Europe, Russiaand the American coloniesdrove demand for the little blackleaves sky high. Tea cultivationspread to Taiwan at the end ofthe 17th century, and The EastIndia Company launched its firsttea plantations in India just afterlosing its Chinese trade monopolyin 1834. In the early part of thelast century, Sumatra, Indonesiaand Kenya also got in on theproduction of tea.

Thirsty workAccording to the UK Tea Councilwe’re getting through 165 millioncups of this stuff daily – that’s60.2 billion cups per year! So why

EMILY

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Have you got what it takes to grow your own cuppa? Pop thekettle on and read on as Shannon Denny investigates

You grow yourfruit and veg.

Now grow yourbreak time tea!

The flowers of Camelliasinensis make this useful

plant a decorativeaddition to the garden


S

don’t we cultivate tea ourselves,rather than going to the effortof importing it? Domesticproduction was allegedlyconsidered at the outbreak ofthe Second World War, but sincetea plants require a minimumestablishment period of severalyears the decision was made tostockpile the stuff rather thancultivate it. As a result, tea wasrationed from 1940 until 1952.

The Tregothnan estate– located in Cornwall andoccupied by the same familysince 1335 – pioneered teagrowing in this country. Plantswere first established hereover two centuries ago and theestate launched Britain’s first teaplantation in 2000. Thanks to theirefforts, the idea of a home-growncuppa is spreading, or possiblysteeping, gradually. EmilyRae from plant gift companyPlants4Presents says they areresponding to demand bysupplying tea plants by mail orderthat are nearly ready for harvest.“It’s Camellia sinensis, so it’s quitesimilar to the camellias peopleare familiar with, which are theCamellia japonica. It’s got dark,waxy green leaves, which is what’sused to make the tea.”

Acid loversIf you’ve had good results withJapanese camellia your gardenmay well be a candidate forgrowing its tea-bearing cousin.“We would recommend topeople if they know they’ve gotacidic soil and their camellias,heathers and other acid-loving

plants are doing well, then theycould plant out in the garden.But if they’ve got chalky oralkaline soil, then they’re betteroff in a pot.”

Emily’s location in Sussex hasproved ideal, allowing them tosuccessfully move tea plants fromthe greenhouse to a vast bedoutside. “We’re just in the middleof the countryside off the chalkedge,” Emily says. “It’s goodfor growing tea because we’vegot acidic soil here.” Tea plantsrequire protection from verystrong winds and prefer aslightly shaded position as

opposed to full sun, “but they’renot massively fussy”.

As with flowering camellias,young tea bushes may struggle tosurvive winter conditions. “Theyare hardy plants so they can gostraight outside,” Emily says, “butin the winter months they need tobe protected in the first year or sofrom very cold conditions. So foranything below -2°C or -3°C, we’dsuggest fleece-wrapping themor moving them indoors if they’restill in a pot.”

At the other end of thecalendar year, the priority shifts toirrigation. “They like quite wet soil.They don’t like to dry out,” sheexplains. “We water once a weekin the winter and every day in thesummer. If people want to makewatering easier for themselves,there’s no reason why they can’tpot up into a bigger pot. Thatwill allow it to have a bit morewater reserves to draw on.You’d normally re-pot in thespring or summer, and again

Domestic production was allegedly consideredat the outbreak of the Second World War

EMILY

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EMIL

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Right: A three-year-old plantready forpotting on orplanting out

A British teaplantation thrivingunder glass

Above: Tea plantsfollowing plantingout. A weed-suppressingmembrane savestime weeding,though a mulchof bark chippingswill do the job


Grow guide

TEA SUPPLIERS✦ Plants4Presents:0845 2268026,plants4presents.co.uk

✦ Toppers Teas:01273 906194,www.toppersteas.co.uk

choose acidic soil or ericaceouscompost.”

Camellias planted out in soilwill grow larger than those keptin pots. “In the Himalayas theynormally grow them up to quitebig bushes, about two metrestall, but in this climate it reallydepends,” says Emily. “Realisticallyyou should be able to get them upto a metre over time.”

Tender tipsOnce your C. sinensis has survivedthe British climate and establisheditself, the next task is takingoff the leaves to be convertedinto something more suited toa teapot that a plant pot. “Youwould normally say that tea plantsare ready for their first harvest intheir third or fourth year. Fromthe tea taster’s point of view, thebest are the very tips of the leaf,so the very young, fresh tips arewhat’s harvested.”

But don’t be prematurelyovercome by your own thirst fora home-made brew; Emily warnsagainst harvesting too soon. “If youhave very young plants the leavesdon’t have the right flavour. And ifyou harvest too early you’ll just stripthe plant down so you have nothingleft. You would always want to leaveenough older leaves on the plantfor it to produce its food so it cangrow on.”

With luck though, you shoulddiscover that your miniature teaplantation is no one-hit wonder.“They should put on severalflushes of young growth over theyear,” says Emily. “You’d probablyhave two or three flushes over aseason. It will be a bit variable inthis country.” This year Emily’splants displayed their first flushin March and another in May.

Tiny ornamental white flowerswith a very slight fragrancetend to appear in November orDecember.

If your experience of farming

in Assam or Darjeeling is a bitlimited, don’t worry – the homeharvesting process is not difficultto grasp. “Use sharp secateursto keep the cuts clean,” Emilyadvises. “They don’t need a lot of

pruning or shaping; they’re quitesuitable for a beginner.”

With practice, you might evenadopt the tool-free technique usedon the large plantations of Chinaand India, where time is of theessence. “When they’re harvestingfor tea production they actuallydon’t do it with secateurs; they doit with their hands and just rub thetips off, and it doesn’t do any long-

term damage,” Emily says.

Tea timeWith these little leaves in hand,you are almost ready to toast yoursuccess. Daniel Abadi, whosecompany Toppers Teas haspartnered with Plants4Presentsto produce and market the firstpackaged Sussex-grown tea, iswell versed in the preparationof the perfect cup. “Essentiallyall teas come from the sameplant and it’s just how much youprocess it,” he explains. In otherwords, black tea, green tea, whitetea, Earl Grey and oolong canall be made from the versatileCamellia sinensis. Even the exoticlapsang souchong is from thesame source; its unusual flavourcomes from smoking black tealeaves over pine needles.

A white tea isn’t oxidised atall, while a green tea is slightly

Black tea, green tea, white tea, Earl Grey andoolong can all be made from the versatileCamellia sinensis

Dried greentea – you canstill see thedistinctiveleaf shape

Freshly pickedtea leaves canbe steepedimmediatelyfor a refreshingand healthycuppa

White tea, madefrom fresh leaves, hassome of the highestlevels of antioxidants


Which herbs make thebest infusions?Lemon balm is one of thosereally great plants: the smellis so soothing, you can alsodrink it cold like a cordial, and itgrows everywhere. Chamomile,obviously, as everyone’s gotthat growing somewhere, or youcan even find it in hedgerows.It’s fantastic for relaxation andjust eases your mind. It’s lovelyand soothing for children whenthey’re teething. Feverfew isvery good for headaches andmigraines. Some people don’tlike the smell but it’s a verybeneficial plant. Peppermintis good for stomach aches,stomach ulcers, mouth ulcersand the kidneys. If you’re raisingmint you have to be careful,though – it grows fast and willtake over a garden, so it’s best tohave the herb in its own pot so itdoesn’t go wild.

How do you harvest herbs foruse in tisanes?With all of these, you can actuallymake an infusion from the wholeplant. You don’t have to worryabout just picking the leaves, soinclude the little stems. Just cropthe whole thing, which is verygood for the plant as well.

What do you advise for theperfect cup – fresh leaves ordried ones?You don’t have to dry them; youcan use them instantly. But if youpick a whole bunch you can drythem to keep for later on. Usegarden twine or rope for this. Ialways use wooden clothes pegsbecause they are sustainable.You can write on the clothespeg and hang up the herbs ona little string.

Sips and starts: Herbal infusion how-toDutch-born organic gardener Iris Borgers is education officer andsupervisor at Grow Mayow, a community garden and nursery in SouthLondon that’s a food growing and plant production site createdby regenerating a derelict park keeper’s depot. The project workswith the local community to promote health, wellbeing, interculturalawareness, environmental sustainability and permaculture. Weasked Iris to share her advice on converting herb cuttings into herbalinfusions suitable for serving in your favourite cup.

What’s your preparationmethod?It’s just like making ordinary tea. Ilove fresh mint tea or lemon balm.If you have a pot in a windowsillor out in your garden, just clip abunch off. Boil your kettle andpour the water over the herbs ina cup.

So do you need to strain theleaves and stems?You don’t have to but somepeople do.

And what about storage ofdried herbs for future infusions?Herbs have to be dried for a longtime, otherwise if you put theminto a container they might getmouldy, so make sure the plantis really well dried out. After thecuttings have become very brittleand dry, I put them into a Kilner jaror brown paper bag.

oxidised and black teas areoxidised the most. So withoutgetting into molecular drawings,what does this mean? “You’reexposing it to oxygen andchanging the chemical makeup,”says Daniel. “And with that youchange its health properties andits taste.”

According to experts, teareduces blood pressure, inhibitsgrowth of fat cells and possessesanti-ageing properties. The lessoxidation, the greater the healthfactors. “It’s a bit like when youboil a vegetable,” explains Daniel.

“The more you boil it, the lessnutrients you have. It’s like thatwhen you process or refine tea.”

Toppers’ Sussex-grownproduce is a white tea calledSouth Downs Tea TrueProvenance. “It’s a very soft,subtle, mellow taste – very, verydelicate. You can get quite afew brews out of a couple ofleaves.” In the future Danielhopes to harvest enough leavesto make green and black teas apossibility too.

Down the road, Emily ravesabout the Toppers product andalso tucks into her own plantswhen she’s thirsty for a uniquetreat. “For white tea, you canuse the leaves fresh so you canliterally just take them off theplant, put them in a teapot, steepfor five minutes and pour yourselfa cup.” The leaves can re-usedthroughout the day and she saysshe finds it more thirst-quenchingthan her typical choice of EarlGrey. “But I can’t drink it all thetime because I wouldn’t have anyplants left!” For a tea drinker andgarden lover, this sounds like avery happy dilemma to have.

Lemon balm isan easy-to-growherbal tea

Young tea leavesready for picking


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Space is at a premium in most gardensor allotments. No gardener ever hasenough room for everything theywant to do, which is why increasing

numbers of gardeners are turning to roofsto seek out additional space. Green roofsare steadily becoming a feature of allotmentsand gardens nationwide.

Using roofs is nothing new. For centuriespeople have been living in earth-shelteredhouses. Back in the Second World War,Anderson Shelters were automatically coveredwith earth and the roofs were used to growvegetables. Today, greater environmentalawareness and decreasing space on theground are making people look more carefullyinto alternatives. As a result, green roofs cannow be found everywhere – on top of gardensheds, stables, bird houses, hives, dog kennels,pergolas and garages.

Incorporating a green roof into your gardenoffers considerable advantages. It providesa habitat for wildlife and reduces the amountof water going into the sewer network. Byusing up some of the rainwater it slows downthe speed that water runs off the roof. Thepresence of vegetation helps to act as acooling influence in built up areas since itabsorbs heat. A green roof also attracts morepollinating insects, particularly bees into thearea. Another consideration is the aestheticquality – green roofs can look most attractive,helping to freshen up neighbourhoods whileinjecting a little more plant life into the area.So long as a green roof is properly maintained,the underlying roof will last longer than aconventional roof, as there is less degradationby wind, weather and UV light.

Greener growing

Even steeper roofscan be greenedgiven regularsupporting framesto stop materialsliding away

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This intensive andproductive roof

garden sits atop NorthHarringay Primary

School, London

PROFILEIGHHGlam up garden buildings, allotment sheds, garages and even rabbit hutches witha colourful, wildlife-friendly green roof. Angela Youngman explores the options


Greener growing

thick – a cheap wooden shed from a DIYstore is unlikely to be strong enough.

You will also need to make sure thatthere is easy access to the roof. Can youwork at the required height? (You needa good head for heights!) You shouldbe able to get onto the roof easily andsafely. Carrying bags of soil and otherconstruction materials up ladders can beheavy work. Once construction of theroof is complete, it is still important to beable to reach the roof without difficultyon a regular basis. It will be necessaryto clean out drainage channels, removeweeds and, if you are growing herbs,salads or vegetables, you will need to beable to harvest them.

Always check with your local councilas to whether planning permissionis required. For small areas such asbeehives or rabbit hutches, suchpermission won’t be needed. Sheds,garages and garden buildings may wellrequire planning permission, however,especially if they can be seen fromother gardens or houses.

Green roofs can be placed on flatroofs and slightly sloping roofs. Roofsthat slope at an angle of more than 22degrees will need supports to preventthe planting material sliding away. Nogutters should be discharging directlyonto the roof; otherwise the plants willget too much water.

InstallationTo install a green roof you will need tocreate a wooden or metal frameworkaround the roof to hold the materials in

Raise the roofThere are two main types of greenroofs – intensive and extensive. Intensiveroofs are traditional gardens set on topof a flat roof. These are often knownas roof gardens and can incorporatetrees, shrubs and planters. Extensiveroofs are much lower cover and haveminimal amounts of soil. Sedums arethe commonest type of extensivegreen roof plant, but increasingly herbsare being used. The Little Green RoofProject in Manchester is helping tocreate a network of small green roofson allotments and communal sitesthroughout the area. Where access andthe roof structure are suitable herbsand vegetables are being grown inaddition to sedum and wild flowers. Forexample, a mini herb garden comprisingrosemary, thyme and chives has beencreated on top of an allotment shed inone part of the city.

Roofs are also becoming another areato grow food, although this trend is stillin its infancy. Gardeners in the USA andCanada are very much at the forefrontof this movement and are growingmore of their vegetables and herbs ontown roofs. This is being undertakenby ordinary gardeners and restaurants,hotels and farms.

As an example, the roof of theFairmont Hotel in Vancouver provides$40,000-worth of herbs a year for useby the chefs working in its kitchen. TheEcological Garden at Linnaea Farmin British Columbia grows radishes,dandelion, chard, beetroot, nettles,rocket, carrots, beans, cucumbers,tomatoes, nasturtiums and herbs on itsroof. The plants are grown in ice creambuckets and bins filled with soil. In thesame state the Canada Church Street

Wine Bar has turned its roof over toherbs, tomatoes, chillies, strawberriesand edible flowers. These are grownin milk crates lined with rubbish bags.While in New York, the Brooklyn Grangeproject involves growing vegetableson an acre of industrial rooftop and isplanning to expand onto other roofs indue course. Even schools have joinedin – the Boston Latin School has set upa roof garden with its own greenhousewhere the children grow vegetables foruse in their school cafeteria.

Apiaries are also appearing onroofs. Putting a hive on a green roofis a logical progression of the greenroof movement. There are plants andflowers on the roof – bees will pollinatethese and produce a honey crop. Oneof the first rooftop gardens designedspecifically for honey bees was installedon the American Ice Company buildingin Baltimore. Designed by JorgBreuning, the 511m2 (5,500 sq ft) rooffeatures an array of plants and a watersource for the bees.

Make your ownCreating a green roof on a shed orgarage isn’t a difficult task but it doesrequire some thought and preparation.Firstly make sure that your roof is strongenough. An average saturated extensivegreen roof can weigh up to 110 kilosper square metre (22.5 lbs per squarefoot), which means that most sheds andgreenhouses will need some adaptationto take the extra weight. Additionalsupports may be necessary to take someof the weight. Walls and roofs need to be

Garden buildings can betransformed with stunningeffect through a green roof

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Rooftop apiaries are a logicalprogression on nectar-rich greenroofs, as here on the American IceCompany building in Baltimore

Creating a green roof on a shed or garage isn'tdifficult but it does require some preparation


1This green roof was createdthrough Manchester’s Little Green

Roof Project. To start with the roof islined with a roof barrier, drainage matand water-retaining mat.

2A series of wooden frames arecreated to trap the growing

medium in sections. This stops itsagging and washing away in heavyrain. The roof is planted with a mix ofsedums and herbs.

3From the front you can see howthe retaining frame (paler wood) is

nailed onto the top of the shed roof.Rooftop chives can just be made outagainst the tree in the background.

STEP-BY-STEP

Setting up a green roofThis cross-section showsthe different layersused in constructing atypical sedum greenroof. The layers consistof a waterproof barrier,a drainage mat to allowexcess moisture to drainaway, a moisture-retainingmat to hold moisture atthe roots, then the sedumcarpet itself.

SEDUM MATTINGWATER RETENTION MATDRAINAGE MAT

ROOT BARRIERROOF DECK

Sedumroof layers

(8in) or less; more intensive planting ofsalad crops or vegetables will requirea deeper soil. Planting materials vary.Some people use ordinary soil mixedwith gravel.

The Little Green Roofs allotmentshed project is a good example of howa simple DIY green roof can be installed.Having checked the load bearingcapacity of the shed, a pine frame wasadded, together with pond liner, rootbarrier and filter fleece. Vegetationwas planted into a growing medium ofclay aggregate, horticultural grit, sand,sterilised loam and peat-free compost.

If you are doing it yourself, costs canbe kept to a minimum. Costs dependentirely on the size of the project. Ifplanning a herb or sedum roof, usingplugs and raising your own plants willprove cheaper than buying mattingor plants. One couple managed tokeep the cost of creating a green roofon top of their 60m2 (646 sq ft) shedto £250 by looking for inexpensivematerials, growing their own plants anddoing everything themselves. Grow-it-yourselfers are a resourceful bunch andno doubt you will find a way to creategreen roofs at minimal outlay. Once inplace, it will create a greener outlookand a welcome home for local wildlife.

place. Once the framework is in place,the roof surface has to be coveredwith a thick, waterproof layer. This isfollowed by a roof barrier membrane toensure that roots do not damage theroof structure; a drainage layer, a waterretention mat and finally the plantingmaterial and chosen vegetation.

Installing a solid waterproof layer isextremely important. Typical waterproofmembranes used on green roofs includebituminous fabrics, butyl rubber andplastic. Such materials can be usedon concrete, metal, timber or plasticsurfaces. For small projects, pondliner is a good option, while builders’plastic provides a cheaper alternative.Whatever material is used, it is importantto make sure that all overlapping edgesare fully sealed. Leaks can occur if thisis ignored. Michael Thompson, creatorof the Eco Shed in Norfolk, discoveredthis the hard way when he had to takeup part of the roof after it had beencompleted in order to deal with a leak.The leak had been caused by a pooroverlapping join in the builders’ plasticused as the waterproofing layer.

Consequently, after the waterprooflayer has been installed, the next stepis to carry out a leak test. To do this youneed to create a temporary dam at thelowest end of the slope or cover overdrainage holes on a flat roof. Flood thesurface with a hosepipe. Leave the wateron the surface for 24 hours. Carefullywatch the underside of the roof to see ifany leaks begin to appear. If they do, thenseal the fabric immediately. If the roof isfully sealed and leak proof it is less likelythat problems will occur in the future.

Planting up a roofSoil depths depend on what youchoose to plant on the roof. Extensivegreen roofs with herbs, sedum and wildplants will require a soil depth of 20cm

A recently-planted green roof willtransform the roof of St Chad’s PrimarySchool in Manchester. Pine frames holdeverything safely in place


Salad is super healthy for us toeat and is an ideal ingredient forlunch boxes or for summertime

barbeques. What’s more, it’s reallyquick and easy to grow an assortmentof salads that will last all season long. Ifyou fancy trying your hand at lettuce,tomatoes, onions and chives, youneedn’t set aside a large chunk of thegarden; instead, you can plant themaltogether in one pot or even a bigleftover bucket or container.

In fact, you can use just aboutanything you like to grow salads – emptywater bottles from mum or dad’s office,a tyre laid flat and filled with compost,or even an old (but clean!) bin. If you’drather buy a few colourful containers tobrighten up your patio, your local gardencentre will have lots to choose from.

In this month’s activity we havechosen to grow salad leaves as theygrow really quickly and have lots of lovelyflavours. For the centrepiece to oursalad garden we’ve planted a tomato

because its fruits are a colourful additionon any dinner plate. What’s great abouthome-grown salad is you can be surethat no nasty pesticides are sprayed onthem. You can grow lots and lots of saladthroughout the summer by having a fewbuckets on the go at once, with seedssown two weeks apart. This will save a lotof money too.

Of course, you can also try springonions, cress, cucumbers, herbs andradishes, which will really make your sidesalad into a meal! Why not try addingsome other ingredients to your saladstoo, such as halved grapes or raisins,croutons, raw red onion, beans, avocadoor chunks of cheese? Then you canmake a salad dressing by combiningone part balsamic vinegar withtwo parts olive oil in a cleanjam jar. Add a little honey,some herbs and wholegrainmustard to taste, put the lidon, then give a good shakebefore adding to your salad.

Salads are very quick and very easy to grow. Victoria Poolman starts offa container salad garden with some tempting tomatoes as a centrepiece

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Bucket of delightsBucket of delights

What are pesticides?Pesticides are what farmerssometimes spray onto their cropsto prevent bugs and other animalsfrom eating them up before it’stime to harvest. These pesticidesare made from chemicals, whichis why it is important to washnon-peelable fruit and vegetablesthat we buy from the shops. Evenfoods that are labelled as ‘organic’have some pesticides used in theirproduction, though not as many.By growing things yourself you

can make sure that you havethe healthiest, tastiest,

most local foodpossible. And best ofall, nothing tastes asgood as somethingyou grew yourself!

ns, avocadoyou canombibininingngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngngng

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production, thouByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByByBy growing thing

can makethe he

mostpoall,goyou

Containersof salads can

keep youin leaves all

summer long


6When your tomatoes have started floweringplace a cane into the pot to ensure the

stems have support when they begin to fruit.Give the tomatoes some liquid tomato feed.

STEP-BY-STEP Planting a bucket of salad

1Make sure there are drainage holes in thebottom of your bucket or pot then place a

layer of broken pots or stones into the base tofurther improve drainage.

2Fill your pot to the top with potting compost.Use a trowel or your hands to scoop out a

couple of big holes where your tomato plantswill sit.

3Give your tomato plants a good soakingbefore removing their pots. Be careful not

to damage the root system of the plants as youease them from their pots.

4Place your plants into the holes in yourcompost and firm back the compost around

them. Make sure you leave plenty of room foryour salad seed mix.

5Scatter your salad leaf mix onto theremaining compost before covering the

seeds over with a light layer of compost. Givethe container a good drink of water.

What youwill need✓ A large pot orbucket at least30cm in diameter✓ 2 tomato plants✓ Mixed salad leafseeds✓ Potting compost✓ Canes or sticks✓ Garden string

Did you know?✦ The largest tomatoplant on record reached amassive 19.5m tall. It wasgrown in Lancashire in 2000.

✦ Although tomatoes arefull of wondrous vitaminsdon’t ever eat the leaves –they are poisonous!

✦ The jelly-like substancewhich surrounds the seedsin a tomato is the part ofthe fruit that has the highestamount of vitamin C.

JUSTFOR FUN...

A man goes to the doctorwith a cucumber up his nose,a carrot in his right ear and a

banana in his left ear.“What’s wrong with me?” he

asks the doctor.The doctor replies: “You’re

not eating properly!”

Did you know?


What could be better than the soft, unctuous taste of freshly picked asparagus?Not much! Try these three recipes to make the very most of this fleeting treat

SEASONAL FARESEASONAL FARECREAMY MOREL AND ASPARAGUS TART / SERVES 6-8

Try it:An impressiveyet easy dish

REC

IPE

BY

VAN

ESSA

KEN

DEL

L

Try this tasty tart as a light lunch dish, served with home-grown new potatoes anda garden salad. Before you use the morels check them for bugs then brush awayany dirt using a mushroom brush or a piece of kitchen paper.

INGREDIENTSFor the pastry:150g (5oz) butter, cubed225g (8oz) plain flour, plus extrafor dusting50g (2oz) Parmesan, finely grated1 egg, beaten

For the filling:50g (2oz) butter300g (11oz) fresh morels, halvedSalt and black pepperFreshly grated nutmeg250g (9oz) asparagus4 eggs284ml (0.5 pint) carton double cream2 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan

METHOD• Rub the butter and flour together ina bowl until the mixture resembles finebreadcrumbs. Add the Parmesan and twoto four tablespoons of cold water to bringthe mixture together to form a ballof dough. You may need to add slightlymore water if it remains crumbly. Wrapthe dough in cling film and chill for atleast an hour.

• Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F, gas6). Roll out the pastry on a floured worksurface and line a 30cm (12in) tart tin. Fillwith greaseproof paper and baking beansand bake blind for 12 minutes.

• Remove the beans and paper, prick witha fork and brush with beaten egg. Bake fora further five minutes until crisp and golden.Turn the oven down to 180°C (350°F, gas 4).

• Meanwhile, melt the butter in a largefrying pan and when it starts to foam, addthe morels. Toss lightly in the butter, seasonwith salt and pepper and grate over thenutmeg. Cook gently for five minutes or sowhile you get on with the asparagus.

• Steam the asparagus for a few minutesto start to soften them, then chop into3cm (1in) lengths and cool slightly. Whiskthe eggs and cream together, add theParmesan and season well. Tip theasparagus and wilted morels into thepastry case and spoon over the egg andcream mixture. Cook the tart in the ovenfor 30 minutes until golden and puffed up.


What’s inseason?

INGREDIENTS4 large Portobello mushroomsA little olive oil4 teaspoons pesto5 Peppadew peppers, cut intothin strips20 asparagus tips2 tablespoons fresh Parmesan,finely gratedA little balsamic vinegarSalt and pepper

METHOD• Carefully remove the stalks fromthe mushrooms, ensuring theyremain whole. Brush each side ofthe mushrooms with a little oil andseason with salt and pepper. Heata large, non-stick frying pan over ahigh heat and fry the mushrooms

for about three minutes on eachside until lightly browned. Arrangegill side up on a baking sheet.

• Cook the asparagus tips inboiling, salted water for aboutthree minutes until al dente. Drainand refresh in cold water. Preheatthe grill.

• Mix the pesto with the Peppadewstrips in a bowl and spoon overthe gill side of each mushroom.Arrange five asparagus tips on topof each mushroom and sprinklewith Parmesan. Slide onto themiddle shelf under the grill andcook for about six minutes untilpiping hot and the Parmesan hasmelted. Serve hot, drizzled with alittle balsamic vinegar.

PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS WITH PESTO AND ASPARAGUS / SERVES 4This recipe is perfect served as a starter, one per person or with a dressed salad as a light supperdish. The asparagus tips offer a real burst of green flavour to be savoured.

RECIPE

BY

LUC

YYO

UN

G

Sometimes the finest ingredients arebest enjoyed as simply as possible.This back-to-basics and ever-so-easyrecipe is the ideal way to experiencethe pure flavour of freshly-cut spears.Eat it outdoors, accompanied byfriends and a bottle of chilled wine.It’s a bit of a DIY dish and great fun forget-togethers.

INGREDIENTS2 bunches of asparagus1 hard-boiled egg per person25g (1oz) melted butter per personPepper mill for grinding

METHOD• Steam the asparagus for about 20minutes, depending on the thicknessof the spears. Test for tenderness bypiercing with the point of a sharp knife.

• Put the hard-boiled eggs into a bowland the melted butter in a small jug.Have a pepper mill handy.

• Offer the eggs and tell yourcompanions to shell them and removethe yolks, discarding the whites. Eachperson can mash their egg with a littlebutter and season with pepper, thendip their asparagus into the resultingmixture. Use fingers rather than forks!

RUSTIC ASPARAGUS / SERVES 4-6

REC

IPE

BY

CLA

RISS

APO

RTER

AsparagusBeetrootBroccoliBroad beansCarrotsCauliflowerElderflowerMintNew potatoesPeasRadishesRhubarbRocketSalad leavesSorrelSpinachSpring greensSpring onionsWatercress

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Andrew Haynes has beena professional gardenerfor more than 30 years.He is head gardener atEdmondsham House inDorset where he tendsan area of fruit and vegequivalent to three full-sizeallotment plots. Andrewoften leads guided toursand runs workshops atEdmondsham.

If we’re not working in our own gardens then we’re havinga nose around other people’s. Andrew Haynes exploresthat great British institution – the garden open day

Now’s the season for garden visiting andthere’s much to be said for it. It is almostimpossible to visit a garden and not

come away with at least one good idea foryour own.

Gardens open to the public come in all shapesand sizes, from the large country estate to thesmall suburban garden. I am very fond of the‘open village’ type of event. These are usuallyheld to support a local worthy cause – new batsfor the belfry or some such thing! The usualarrangement is for the visitor to pay a singlefee to visit all the participating gardens, often adozen or more. It offers a brilliant opportunity tohave a nose round other people’s gardens.

It is good to see that many will be growing atleast a few fruits and vegetables. The mistakesmade will be as much of an education as the job

well done. For example, five courgette plantsmay have been crammed into a space reallyonly big enough for two, but there might be anabsolutely brilliant runner bean support or someexotic vegetable that you’ve never even heard ofbefore. At an event local to me the allotment sitetook part, with plot holders on hand to explaintheir methods.

Then there is the tea. Now it is importantto distinguish between ‘tea’ and ‘teas’, theformer being pretty much what it says – a cupof lukewarm tea or squash (served at a similartemperature), plus a biscuit if you’re lucky! Teason the other hand, in addition to the lukewarmbeverages, usually entail a stale scone. Theever-popular fundraisers are the cream teasor strawberries and cream, both guaranteedto attract hordes of aggressive wasps. Havingpurchased your tea you are invited to sit at somerickety, guano-encrusted garden furniture, atwhich point the heavens open. This is England atits best and I love it!

You will often find plant ‘bargains’ for sale atthese events. Buyers beware! Amateur-raised

plants often come with free rooted cuttings ofground elder or some other pernicious weedlurking in the pot. If they aren’t spotted in timethese could soon become established and ifignored will develop into a problem that couldtake years to eradicate. Likewise there might beinvertebrate passengers, most commonly vineweevils and slugs or snails – we all need more ofthese! The advice is to check plants thoroughlybefore planting them in your plot.

In the world of open gardens, the real crèmede la cream tea is the garden open for theNational Gardens Scheme (NGS). To qualify forinclusion in the fabled ‘Yellow Book’ gardensare inspected to ensure that they are of a goodstandard, with a sufficient level of interest, anddo not have an open mineshaft, alligators in thepond or anything else that might compromisethe health and safety of visitors.

The gardens where I work have opened forthe scheme for more than 25 years, somethingthat I am more than happy to support. Every yearNGS gardens in England and Wales raise morethan £2 million for nursing, caring and gardeningcharities. I have swapped seeds, plants andideas with many of our visitors over the years; itis very much a two-way thing. Nine out of the 12gardens listed nearest to us feature a vegetableplot, so if you’re not already a confirmed gardenvisitor – go on, give it a go!

The ever-popular fundraisers arethe cream teas or strawberries andcream, both guaranteed to attracthordes of aggressive wasps

The Grow Your Own ShowGrow It. Cook It. Eat It.

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To book Tickets call 01483 444789www.thegrowyourownshow.co.uk

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Documents

Grow it! May 2011