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9/13/2016 Hadar Haochel - Telavivian
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Hadar Haochelby Tallie Lieberman | 13.09.16
Let’s be real. While Tel Aviv is a far cry from Paris, city
of quiet children or children begone, most restaurants in
the White City tolerate – but do not cater to – gabby kids
and their flagging parents. Enter Hadar Haochel, the
kibbutzinspired “Dining Hall” in the heart of the city’s
cultural Golden Triangle – the Tel Aviv Museum of Art,
the Cameri Theater and the Israeli Opera.
On sweltering Saturdays, which stretch as far as the eye
can see, Hadar Haochel beckons. This culinary oasis
serves up the best of Chef Omer Miller’s new Israeli
kitchen, a mélange of Ashkenazi, Sephardic and
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Mediterranean flavors, on long communal tables that
invite (practically demand) dialogue and sharing. Here,
the specials of the day are scribbled in chalk, the service
is warm and fast – and the patrons, child and adult alike,
are diverted and content.
After partaking of a golden schnitzel or a charcoalgrilled
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hamburger, kids may skip over to the artsandcrafts
table, allowing their parents to indulge in Chef Miller’s
nuanced specialties: crisp sea bream fillets piled high atop
a crunchy za’atarseasoned pita on a bed of creamy
labaneh; a single juicy chicken kebab served with punchy
tzatziki and hot tomato salsa; or fresh fish tartar with
roasted pepper gazpacho and a dollop of labaneh. Strong
coffee, dessert – the fruitoftheday tart with fresh crème
pâtissière or the nougaty chocolate mousse – and it is
time to calmly (read reluctantly) gather up the troops and
head home.
Hadar Haochel, Shaul Hamelech Boulevard 23,03.696.6188 | Read more about Hadar Haochel inthe Telavivian City Guide.
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