Hair Gels Basics

Hair Styling Gels: In & Out

Vikhyati PatelSummer TraineeNirma University, Ahmedabad

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Grooming By Gender

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Men’s Grooming In Hair Care

Why Hair Styling?

• Hair style determines the personality.• Hair style shows one’s outlook in life.• Hair style shows one’s attractiveness.• Hair style enhances one’s “Highly-Visible Asset”

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Hair Styling Products

• Hair Wax• Hair Mousse• Pomade• Hair Gel• Hair Spray• Hair Volumizer• Miscellaneous

Ulrike Blume- Peytavi, David A. Whiting, Ralph M. Trüeb; Hair Growth and Disorders; Springer; 2008 edition; Page No.: 5036

Hair Styling Products SPRAY GEL WAX MOUSSE POMADE BRILLIANTAINE OIL SHEEN

SPRAYGEL CURL

ACTIVATOR

Aerosolized liquid applied to

maintain the hair style

Similar to sprays but they are

either squeezed or picked up

from a container

New products designed to add increased hold to

hair

Unique styling product released as foam from an aerosolized can

Designed to straighten,

moisturize, and add shine to the

kinky hair

Unlike ointment pomade, they are

liquid

Hair sprays for kinky hair styles

with high concentration of

conditioners

Used for “Jheri curls”, basically to enhance the curls

Employs copolymers such

as PVP ,which adds stiffness to

hair

They have PVP copolymers too,

resulting in enhanced hold, increased hair

shine and some conditioning

They too rely on polymers, but polymers are

designed to soften at body

temperature

It yields a lighter copolymer application

Known as Cream Brilliantine,

anhydrous in nature

Popular for maintaining

natural and kinky hairstyles

Aerosolized oil containing mineral

oil and silicone, used for majorly African-American

hair

Based on Glycerin which functions as

humectants

PVP is water soluble resin and

thus results in stickiness and loss

in stiffness

Two types of hair gels:

Styling gelsSculpturing gels

Gives “Bed Head” look with a greasy

look

Gives wet and spiky look but not the perfect hold as

gel

Contains petrolatum,

waxes, lanolin, vegetable or mineral oils

Contain vegetable or mineral oil

Used on daily basis to moisturize

and decrease combing friction

Currently out of popularity, due to stickiness and dirt adhesion due to

GlycerinPVP +VA=high

water resistant but harder to remove while shampooing

Offers strong hold allowing the

creation of gravity- defying hair styles

Scooped from the can and allowed to

soften between the palm prior to the application

Produces less flaking and

stickiness under moist condition

Minimizes combing friction thus preventing hair breakages with styling and

lubrication

Newer formulations

contain silicone for lubricity, castor oil for manageability

and soluble glycoprotein to maintain proper

moisture balance and shine

PVP+ DMAEMA=High hold with

reduced stiffness

Creates the illusion of fullness

on the scalp

Popular for short hair styling

Used for curl reductions and

hair styling near to the scalp

Ulrike Blume- Peytavi, David A. Whiting, Ralph M. Trüeb; Hair Growth and Disorders; Springer; 2008 edition; Page No.: 503 7

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Hair Styling Products Guide

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Why Hair Gels Over Others?

• Stiffen a hair style and keep it from falling apart• Stronger Hold than others in adverse condition too• Mildly wet appearance of hair for longer duration• Conditioning agent to keep hair manageable• Sunscreen components to protect hair from UV and other

detrimental radiation• Moisturizers to keep hair healthy (exception: alcohol

based gels)

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Hair Gel CategoriesHair gels are actually categorized by “Hold”, which refers to the strength-holding capacity of

the gel. Light Hold: Light-hold hair gel is indicated for hairstyles that do not require

the hair to be secured tightly in place. Light-hold hair gel is the only type of hair gel recommend for long hair.

Firm Hold: Firm-hold hair gel provides a tighter grip on the hair than the one from light-hold hair gel. Firm-hold gel is especially useful for straight and wavy hair of short and medium length.

Strong Hold: Strong-hold hair gel offers the strongest grip on the hair and is ideal for gravity-defying hairstyles and/or hairstyles that need very-precise shaping and molding. Strong-hold hair gel is recommended for straight and wavy hair of short to medium length.

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General Composition Of Hair Styling Gels

• Thickeners• Fixatives• Humectants• Solvent• Neutralizers• Solubilizers• Preservatives• Colorants• Stabilizers• Chelating Agents• Fragrance• Various Vitamin extracts

Primary Composition

Secondary Composition

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Thickeners

• They enhance the consistency, volume and viscosity of cosmetic products, thereby providing more stability and better performance.

• Some thickeners have also emulsifying or gelling properties, the majority of thickeners have the ability to retain water on the skin and act therefore as moisturizers.

• Thickeners can be completely natural like waxes but also synthetic or semi-synthetic. They are derived from various sources and consist of very different molecular structures including polysaccharides, proteins, alcohols, silicones or waxes.

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Types Of Thickeners

LIPID THICKENERS(E.g.. Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl

Alcohol, Carnauba Wax, Stearic acid)

MINERAL THICKENERS(E.g.. Silica, Bentonite, and

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate)

NATURALLY DERIVED THICKENERS

(E.g.. Cellulose derivatives, Guar gum, Bean Gum, Xanthan Gum, Gelatin)

SYNTHETIC THICKENERS(E.g.. Carbomer, PVP)

IONIC THICKENERS(E.g.. NaCl)

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Mechanism Of Thickening

Stage 1: Powder Stage 2: Hydration (Polymer dispersion) Stage 3: Neutralization

(Polymer mucilage)

*mechanism demonstrated for carbopol

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Fixatives

FILM FORMERS

POLYMERSE.g. cellulose gums, nylon, PVP silicones, ethoxylated and propoxylated (such as polypropylene) ingredients

COLLOIDSE.g. kaolin, latex and

acrylics

RESINSE.g. shellac, amber, rosin, polyethylene ,polyurethan

e


• film formers are used in conjunction with volatile solvents. • The volatile material evaporates off thereby leaving the film

former on the surface of the skin or hair. • The volatile solvents of choice are water, isododecane or

cyclomethicone, all of which work well in various cosmetic systems where film forming is desirable.

Film Forming Mechanism


• Selection of the proper film former is essential in creating a product with specific characteristics and optimum functionality.

• The use level will vary depending on the active level of the specific film former and how much of a film is desired in the product.

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Humectants

• Humectants are used in hair and skin care products to promote moisture retention.

• They have the ability to attract water from the atmosphere. • Many different molecules have the ability to be

effective humectants. How well they do this depends on how many water-loving sites they contain for hydrogen bonding with water molecules.

• The strength of this bonding between the humectants and water improves moisture retention by minimizing water loss due to evaporation.

• Glycerin, Propylene glycol, Honey, Sorbitol, Sodium PCA, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed silk protein, Fructose are the major ones used in hair and skin care.

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Humectants are hydrophilic substances, containing hydroxyl groups. They are composed of polar molecules, and the dipole-dipole interactions between these molecules and the hydrogen-bonding water molecules allow an attraction to occur, thus allowing for moisture retention.

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NeutralizersNeutralizer is a substance or material used in the neutralization of acidic mixture. It is a common designation for alkaline materials.

• the best pH of the system should be determined by the performance desired for the particular application. The final pH should be consistent with desired functional attributes of the targeted application.

• NaOH, Ammonia, KOH, TEA, Tris Amino®, Triisopropanolamine, Neutrol® TE, AMP Ultra PC2000 are the most common one used in hair care.

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Why to Balance pH?• Hair and sebum naturally have a pH balance between

4.5 and 5.5. This means hair and sebum (natural oils) are healthiest when acidic.

• Raising pH can lead to dry, brittle hair, prone to breakage.

• Maximum alkalinity that can be healthy for hair is till 7.5 pH

• Slight alkalinity is necessary in hair styling products such as Hair gels to give fluffy look to the style and helps combat baldness or thin hair problems.

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SolubilizersA solubilizer is a type of emulsifier used to incorporate small

amounts of one phase into a separate larger phase

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Preservatives• The use of preservatives is essential in most products to prevent

product damage caused by microorganisms and to protect the product from inadvertent contamination by the consumer during use.

• An ingredient that protects the product from the growth of microorganisms is called an antimicrobial.

• A preservative may also be added to a product to protect it against damage and degradation caused by exposure to oxygen, and in this instance, these ingredients are also called antioxidants.

• Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Potassium Sorbate, DMDM Hydantoin, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium benzoate, Quaternium – 15, Benzalkonium Chloride, Citric Acid, Grapefruit Seed Extract, etc. are used as preservatives.

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Effect of pH on Preservative Efficacy

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Chelating Agents

• Any ingredient that bind with metal ions or metallic compounds, preventing them from adhering to a surface (such as skin, hair, or clothing) or causing contamination or discoloration, such as in the case of trace amounts of iron.

• Examples are tetrasodium EDTA and tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine. The EDTA complex is most common because of its broad effectiveness and compatibility with most cosmetic ingredients.


Thank You!



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Hair Gels Basics