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HAIRCOLOR CHEMISTRY
• Haircolor
• Bleaches
• Hydrogen Peroxide
1chapter
Revised July 2005
2
“If prayer had an influence on the outcome ofhaircolor services, there would be far more
successful haircolor services.”
Charles Traina, Evaluator
3
There are many different types of haircoloringproducts available. They include pigmented shampoos,weekly rinses, semi-permanent, permanent lift/deposithaircolor and deposit-only haircolor. The focus of thischapter is permanent lift/deposit haircolors.
1
The weekly rinse or temporary haircolor is primarilyused to add color to gray hair, faded blondes or brassyhair. This haircolor is not generally used to cover gray. Itdoes not have the ability to lighten hair. The color isapplied at the shampoo bowl or working station and leftin the hair. The color will rub off if applied excessively.
2
Semi-permanent haircolor is not mixed with peroxide.It is simple to use because the color you see is the coloryou get. It is a direct dye and does not require oxidationfor the color to stain the hair. In areas where the hair ismore porous, this type of color will show greater intensity.Caution must be exercised when utilizing a semi-permanent haircolor on porous hair; it can stain the hairpermanently.
3
Deposit-only haircolor utilizes oxidative and direct dyes,and requires peroxide. The peroxide is generally a low volumeoxidative solution. Deposit only/demi-permanent haircolors arelonger lasting than semi-permanent haircolor. The majordistinction between semi-permanent and deposit only/demi-permanent colors is that peroxide is required with deposit onlyand demi permanent color. NOTE: Some deposit onlyhaircolors may create a small degree of lift.
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Permanent (lift/deposit) haircolors are available in avariety of forms: Gels, liquids and creams. They arepackaged in tubes, as well as bottles. The majority utilizeequal parts of peroxide, although some utilize a one to tworatio of haircolor to peroxide. Permanent haircolor worksin basically the same manner; they create a certain degreeof lift and deposit. Permanent haircolors are the onlyhaircolors that are formulated to lighten hair.
The international system of defining the lift/depositratio of haircolor is called the level system. The levelsystem gives the haircolorist an indication of the lift/deposit ratio in a bottle or tube of haircolor. Althoughmost manufacturers of haircolor products utilize the levelsystem, not all manufacturers utilize the same levelsystem. When comparing products that are labeled thesame level from two different manufacturers, thehaircolorist must be aware that the product could vary asmuch as two levels, therefore it may not produce thesame results.
6
A RULE TO REMEMBER WHEN SELECTING ACOLOR IS:
The darker the color, the smaller the number. Thismay vary depending on the manufacturer. Some start with#0, others with #1. The same variance can be found onthe other end of the scale. Some manufacturers choose touse #10 as the lightest haircolor, while others choose touse #12. Permanent haircolor contains ingredients whichcreate lift and color deposit.
7
The lift/deposit ratio in a container of haircolor isdefined by this chart. This chart depicts the relationshipbetween lift and deposit. The parts on the left side of thechart will correspond to the level. The more parts lift thehigher the level.
8
5
0 1 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
5
12
A haircolor product with a low number is indicatinga small amount of lift and a corresponding greater amountof deposit.
9
The level system is one tool the haircolorist can useto determine what color to choose when formulating fora client. If there is a greater number of levels in a line ofhaircolor, there is a smaller difference between thoselevels. In some of the highlift colors there could be aslittle as one tenth of 1% color deposit. PLEASE NOTE: Level systems will differ amongmanufacturers
10
Another way of looking at haircolor is theconcentration of color deposit as seen in this prop. Thelevel 10 haircolor has the least amount of color deposit.As the numbers decrease, there is a greater concentrationof color deposit.
11
Permanent (lift/deposit) haircolor contains dye, alkalinesubstances, conditioners, stabilizers, fragrance, detergentsand emulsifiers. These are all utilized in various proportionsto create the vast numbers of haircolors that are available tothe haircolorist. The advantage of professional haircoloringover mass marketing haircoloring is greater selection,professional formulation and professional applicationtechniques.
AmmoniumHydroxideor Alkali
Substitute
DyesAlkali
DetergentsEmulsifiers
ConditionersStabilizersFragrance
DEPOSIT
LIFT
6
The level system only indicates lift/deposit ratio. The toneor shade defines the actual color and is generally listed on theproduct. Manufacturers often add a letter or series of numbersto identify level and indicate tone. While this information isprovided to help the haircolorist determine formulation, thefinal color is determined by a number of factors that the coloristmust consider: Category of natural haircolor, presence/amountof gray hair, porosity and condition of the hair. The coloristcannot rely on level and tone indicators from a manufactureralone to accurately predict the final color.
A variety of terms are used to describe the tone of ahaircolor. Neutral, natural, drab, gold, ash, smoky, red, andauburn red; to mention a few. It is important to know thedegree of concentration of the tone. For example: The coloridentified as gold could be a very intense yellow gold, orhave slightly more gold than a neutral. Working with thecolor and making swatches will help the haircoloristrecognize the actual color.
14
Hydrogen peroxide is the catalyst that causespermanent haircolor to work. A qualified haircoloristshould be able to utilize various volumes of peroxides.Twenty (20) volume peroxide is the typical developerused in most cases. Clients with sensitive scalps may notbe able to withstand additional activity from highervolume peroxide.
15
Higher volumes of peroxide are utilized when agreater degree of lift is desired. As the volume ofperoxide increases, the color deposit diminishes. Theopposite occurs when the volume of peroxide is lowered.
16
13
7
When haircolor is mixed with peroxide, a chemical actiontakes place. The higher the level of color (more lifting action),or the higher the volume of peroxide, the more aggressive thechemical reaction. The lower the level of color (more colordeposit), or the lower the volume of peroxide, the lessaggressive the chemical reaction. When first mixed, thechemical reaction is most active. When the formula is appliedto hair, the peroxide and ammonia begin to dissipate. The colorremaining in the bowl or applicator bottle is oxidizing at aslower rate than the product applied to the head.
17
Hydrogen peroxide affects the lifting and depositingcycle of the haircolor process. The majority of the liftingoccurs during the initial stages of the application and willcontinue to a lesser degree during the entire haircoloringprocess. This graph illustrates how the peroxidedecomposes after mixing with bleach or haircolor. Thisoccurrence will differ slightly depending on the level ofcolor.
18
The amount of color deposit is attributed to the amountof color in the formula. If coverage of gray hair is desiredand does not occur, it is possible the level of color beingused does not contain enough color deposit. There isn’tenough color in the higher level of tints to cover gray haircompletely. The level of color being used should be thefirst consideration when gray coverage is poor. If there isample color in the formula and the gray hair is still notbeing covered, the hair itself would be considered resistant.
19
An alkali contained in the color product swells thecuticle and allows the haircolor to penetrate. Thecombination of hydrogen peroxide with an alkali createsa chemical reaction, which breaks down the melanin anddevelops the dyes. Depending on the level of color, thecolor will penetrate further into the hair on subsequentapplications.
206 5 4 3 2 1
Applications
8
Hydrogen peroxide in combination with an alkali isresponsible for releasing peroxides free radicals. Theperoxide and alkali break apart the melanin causing it todiffuse and give the hair a lighter appearance. Theperoxide is primarily responsible for dissolving themelanin
It is important to know the relationship betweenvolume and percentage when discussing peroxides.Hydrogen peroxide manufactured for haircolor use islabeled according to strength. In the United States,peroxide strength is stated as a numeric value followed bythe word “volume”; e.g. 20 volume peroxide. In othercountries such as England and Canada, peroxide strengthis measured and labeled by percentage; i.e. 6% peroxide.
3% - 10 volume 6% - 20 volume9% - 30 volume 12% - 40 volume
22
Soap bubbles are used to illustrate one volume ofperoxide. One volume is a container filled with air. Thisis considered to be one volume of oxygen.
23
These bubbles simulating oxygen are forced to thebottom of the glass by compressing the oxygen with aram. This would make one volume of peroxide.
24
21
9
This simulated bottle of peroxide would representone volume of peroxide with the oxygen squeezed to thebottom.
25
This is the same container, once again filled withbubbles representing oxygen in place.
26
The ramming process is repeated again, pushing theram down to the bottom of the glass. This gives twovolumes of oxygen. If this is done twenty times, yousqueeze twenty volumes of air into this glass. This givesthe container 20 volume peroxide or 6% of the containeris peroxide.
27
All of the oxygen that was squeezed into the bottomof this container takes up 6 percent of the container, thusthe term 6% peroxide. Three (3)% is 10 volume, 6% is 20volume. For every additional 3% add 10 volume.
NOTE: This is not the method used to actually makeperoxide. This prop is used only to aid the reader to betterunderstand the volume/percent ratio.
28
10
The oxygen attempting to escape is what makesperoxide an unstable solution. The more oxygen in thecontainer, the more unstable the solution. The maximumamount of oxygen in peroxide is 35%, 130 volume. Thereare no laws which regulate the volume of peroxide acosmetologist may use.
Pour 4 ounces of 20 volume peroxide into one glass.Pour 4 ounces of 5 volume peroxide (1 oz. of 20 volumeperoxide and 3 oz. of water) into the second glass. Thecontents of both glasses appear the same.
29
In the previous exercise, the difference in strengths ofperoxide was explained. This is another example of howdifferent volumes of peroxide react. The physicalappearance of varying strengths of peroxide is identicalto water, making it impossible to identify its strength bysight alone. In this exercise, an equal amount of aproduct that releases oxygen (contains catalyze) is addedto the peroxide. This additive will decompose theperoxide, releasing all of its oxygen.
30
All of the oxygen is now escaping from the liquid.This gives an indication of the strength of the peroxide.Notice the bubbling action that is taking place. The morebubbles, the more activity in the product. Both of thesevolumes will stop working at the same time. The 20volume peroxide generates more activity than the 5volume peroxide.
31
The difference between 5 volume and 20 volumeperoxide is apparent when the peroxide is completelydecomposed. The 20 volume peroxide has much moreactivity, which can clearly be seen. This exercise helpsgain a better insight on how peroxide decomposes.
32
11
Utilizing Alka-Seltzer, another prop has been devisedto indicate how peroxide decomposes. The Alka-Seltzerare stacked into piles. Each pile indicates the percentageof peroxide for that volume. 10 volume peroxide is 3%so there is 3 tablets. 20 volume is 6% so there are 6tablets, all the way to 40 volume which is 12%, so thereare 12 tablets.
33
An equal amount of water is placed into each of theglass containers as marked. The Alka-Seltzer is then putinto the containers at the same time and the tablets startto dissolve.
34
The action of the simulated volumes of peroxide canbe seen in this prop. The 40 volume peroxide reacts withmuch more intensity than does the 30, 20, and 10respectively.
35
All of the peroxides stop working at the same time.The 40 volume does not continue working twice as longas the 20 volume, but works twice as strong. Furtherexplanation of how peroxides affect lifting action will bedemonstrated later in this chapter.
36
12
Lift/deposit action of a haircolor may be altered by the useof a higher volume peroxide. If a haircolor is formulated to beutilized with 20 volume, the lifting action is increased as muchas one level by increasing the volume of peroxide to 30volume. This also, affects the deposit of color; the more liftingaction, the less color deposit.
37
The strength of peroxide may be decreased by dilutingit with distilled water. The formula for diluting peroxide is:
1 part 20 volume peroxide1 part water (0 volume = 10 volume peroxide)When mixing equal parts add the two volumes together
and divide by two. Example:1 part 40 volume
+ 1 part 20 volume60 volume divided by 2 = 30 volume
A hydrometer may also be used to measure the volumeof liquid peroxide.
38
Heat affects lifting action in the same manner thathigher volumes of peroxide affect haircolor. The additionof heat to a color formula increases the lifting action. Asa result of the lifting action, it is important to rememberthat color deposit will be reduced; Powder bleach isapplied to this strand and will process at roomtemperature for 30 minutes.
39
For this strand, a new mixture of bleach was mixed atthe same strength and allowed to process for 30 minutes.We added heat while the hair was processing. Thetemperature was raised to 80 degrees with the use of aheat lamp.
40
1-1/2 ounce20 vol.
1 ounce20 vol.
1/2 ounce20 vol.
Add 1/2 oz.water15 vol.
Add 1 oz.water10 vol.
Add 1- 1/2 oz.water5 vol.
13
The same process was repeated with five differentswatches. The temperatures were raised with the heatlamps to 80, 90, 100, and 110 degrees. Each strand wasallowed to process for 30 minutes, with the same strengthbleach mixture. The result of this experiment shows thedegree of lightness achieved by the various degrees ofheat. The heat settings on the typical hair dryer are; cool-80 degrees, low-90 degrees, medium-100 degrees, andhigh-110 degrees.
41
Another experiment shows how lightening action isaffected by the various volumes of peroxide. Each of thebatches of bleach were mixed with 5, 10, 15 and 20volume peroxide. Each batch of bleach was mixed withexact proportions. Each group of 4 swatches weresaturated with bleach.
42
The swatches were covered with foil and allowed toprocess. One of the swatches from each group wereshampooed at intervals of 15 minutes, 30 minutes, 45minutes and 60 minutes.
43
This shows the result of that experiment. Note howthe strands become closer together in color as timeincreases. As the processing times increase, the bleachingslows down considerably. The graph on the next pageexplains how this process occurs.
44
Nat 80 90 100 110
15Min.
30Min.
45Min.
60Min.
5 volume 10volume
15volume
20volume
20 Vol.15 Vol.10 Vol.5 Vol.
14
The longer the bleach is on the hair, the slowerbleaching action becomes, regardless of the startingstrength of peroxide. The strength of peroxide has agreater effect on the bleaching action initially; thenslowly it diminishes. Powder bleach will lighten the haireven if mixed with water.
45
A foil packet is utilized when lightening selectedstrands of hair to keep the strands isolated. This methodserves to confine the bleach mixture, keeping the productmoist and active for a longer period of time. Without foilor other material to isolate the bleach on the hair, thebleach will dry out and stop working.
46
In this exercise, powder bleach was used to showdifferences in bleaching action. When using cremeperoxide verses liquid peroxide, less bleach powder isused in the mixture. We generally mix bleach toconsistency rather than measure. If a higher volumecreme peroxide is used, greater bleaching action will notbe achieved because less bleach is used. The bleachpowder is the stronger of the two ingredients anddetermines the bleaching action.
47
This exercise shows the differences in using thevarious volumes of peroxides. Three sets of swatcheswere processed with three different formulas of bleachmixed as follows:
1. One part 20 volume liquid peroxide to two partspowder bleach.
2. One part 40 volume liquid peroxide to two partspowder bleach.
3. One part 40 volume creme peroxide to one partpowder bleach.
48
20 vol. liquid
40 vol. liquid40 vol. creme
15
The swatches were removed at 30 minutes, 60 minutes and 90 minutes. One of the swatchesprocessed for four hours. Once again the processing timesresulted in the color coming closer together the longer thebleach was on the hair. The swatch bleached for fourhours was not a great deal lighter than the 90 minuteswatches.
49
The same type of exercise was performed using ahigh-lift tint. The purpose of this experiment was todetermine how long high-lift tints stayed active and todetermine the difference between the proportions andvolumes of peroxides. The batches were mixed in thefollowing manner:
1. High-lift tint with equal parts of 20 volumeperoxide.
2. High-lift tint with double parts of 40 volumeperoxide.
50
The swatches were thoroughly saturated and allowedto process.
51
The first set of swatches were removed after 30minutes, the second set after 60 minutes and the third setafter 90 minutes. The color of the three groups ofswatches became closer the longer the tint stayed on thehair. It is apparent that tint formulas continue lighteningthe hair over a long period of time. The swatch thatprocessed for four hours is evidence of this. Most of thelightening action created by the various volumes ofperoxide occurred with the first 30 minutes.
52
30Minutes
60Minutes
90Minutes
4Hours
Natur
al H
air
20 V
olum
e Li
quid
40 V
olum
e Li
quid
40 V
olum
e Cre
me
Natur
al H
air
Equal
20
Doubl
e 40
Equal
20
30Minutes
60Minutes
90Minutes
4Hours
16
The length of time a bleach continues to work isaffected by how rapidly the alkali and the peroxidedissipates. If the solution is contained in a foil packet,between papers, or cellophane wrap the bleaching actionwill continue to stay active over a longer period of time.Once bleach mixture becomes dry, it no longer continuesto work.
53
The materials used to form packets seems to beirrelevant. As long as the bleach is enclosed in a mannerto keep it from drying out, the bleach will continueworking. Here, various strands were enclosed in shinyside foil, dull side foil, papers, saran and one was leftuncovered.
54
The result of the hair strands being bleached invarious forms of materials is irrelevant. The only swatchthat is visibly not as light, is the swatch left uncovered.The same bleach was applied to all of the swatches andprocessed for the same amount of time.
55
A comparison was made with enzymes, 20 volumeperoxide and a deposit only processing lotion. Thepurpose was to determine the amount of oxygen in eachof these products.
56
SaranUncovered
Foil Shiny PaperFoil Dull
SaranUncovered
Foil Shiny PaperFoil Dull
SaranUncovered
Foil Shiny PaperFoil Dull
PeroxideDepositOnly
ProcessingLotion
Enzyme
17
A product containing catalyze was poured into thebeakers. The amount of foaming action will determinehow much oxygen is present in each of these products.
57
The results of this test are apparent: The 20 volumehas the most oxygen followed by the enzyme. The depositonly catalyst has the least amount of oxygen.
58
To further compare the enzyme, we mixed theenzyme and 20 volume peroxide with powder bleach.Each was allowed to process for 30 minutes
59
The result shows that the enzyme strand is slightlylighter than the 20 volume peroxide. The reader willreach his/her own conclusion from this exercise.
60
Peroxide
DepositOnly
ProcessingLotion
Enzyme
PeroxideDeposit
OnlyProcessing
Lotion
Enzyme
PeroxideNatural Enzyme
64
18
Many of the tools printers use are helpful tounderstand haircolor formulation. Printers have to dealwith similar problems as haircolorists in their work. Theyare applying inks which are transparent, to coloredpapers. The color of paper being used effects the finalcolor. The colored paper is therefore placed below theink color to determine how the ink will look variouscolors of paper.
61
Another printer’s tool contains thousands of colorsand the formulas, containing percentages of each of theprimary colors used to achieve each color. The name ofthis system is called ‘Pantone’ colors. All inkmanufacturers adjust their inks to the ‘Pantone’ system.How much easier it would be if the haircolor industrycould standardize their haircolors. Learning the colorwheel is important information, it would be morepertinent to our industry if the percent of primary colorsin the various haircolors would be taught
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This chapter should encourage every Board CertifiedHaircolorist to take the time to perform individualexperiments. Learn about the products you work with.By doing so, you will be better prepared to deal withcritical decisions when working on your clients hair.
The American Board of Certified Haircolorists providesa do it yourself color chart. You may color preparedswatches with the haircolors you use most often. Thisexercise will help the haircolorists better understandhow a haircolor will react on given hair types.
PERFORMANCEEXAMINATION
• Preparation and Layout
• Mandatory Tasks
• Optional Techniques
• Unacceptable Procedures
10chapter
Revised July 2005
“Learn, formulate, execute, experience, learn, formulate,
execute, experience. You will never learn all there is to know”
Ty Isobe, Evaluator
The candidate will proceed to their assigned stationthat matches the team registration number. Lay out all ofthe materials necessary to perform the mandatorytechniques as well as all of the optional techniques.Display the swatches. Any tools or materials that will notbe used during the examination should be placed underthe table. Deductions will be made under organizationfor reaching under the table during the examination. Youwill also receive deductions for using notes for recitingformulas
1
All candidates will perform the same tasks on theright side of the mannequin. All tasks will be carried outwithout an assistant. An off the scalp powder bleach isrecommended so the evaluators may clearly see theapplication. Candidates will not be evaluated on thefinished result. Proceed in the following order: • Right rear, weave and slice. The candidate may start at the nape or crown.• Right front highlight retouch.• Left front assigned optional technique. Tone on tone or gray reduction.• Left rear assigned optional technique. High-low lighting, reverse highlight
or bleach retouch.
2
On the right side of the mannequin, the mandatorytasks shall be completed by placing the hair in any typeof foil, paper or plastic that the candidate desires.Although the candidate may utilize a variety of toolswhen working in the salon, for this examination you mustuse one of the accepted methods.
Do not come to the test site with the anticipation ofdoing the same work as you do in the salon. We ask thatyou follow the prescribed method outlined in this chapterfor the mandatory techniques. (continued)
3
first mandatory sliceand weave
secondmandatory highlightretouch
gray reduction ortone on tone
mandatory highlow lighting, reversehighlighting orbleach retouch
optional techniquescan be done in anyorder
143
On the right rear quadrant the candidate will performa weave and a slice. A medium weave will be performedon the top portion of the right rear quadrant. A fine slicewill be performed on the bottom right rear quadrant.There is a dividing line between the weave and slice toindicate where they both should take place. Observe thenumber of sections to be bleached and come as close aspossible to duplicating them. The dividing line is not inthe same position on each of the mannequins. NOTE:The weave and slice may be started in any order.
4
3 (continued)
The candidates are being evaluated on followinginstruction as well as workmanship. If the methodsprescribed in the chapter for the mandatory techniquesare not familiar, it would be in the candidate’s bestinterest to practice until he/she is comfortable and theapplication is smooth. The candidate is being tested inthe psychomotor skills, therefore the use ofhairpainting, frosting cap, Spatula and Super Streakcups will not be allowed for the mandatory tasks.
Dividingline
144
A medium weave is described as one-eighth of aninch sections with one-quarter of an inch subsections.There must be enough natural hair between the hair beingbleached to create a distinct separation.(See #12) The hairleft natural between highlightened sections must begreater than the hair being lightened. Apply the bleach asclose as possible to the scalp without bleeding.
5
This packet would receive a poor rating because ofthe inconsistency and application. The size of the strandsare inconsistent as well as the application of bleach.
Deduction: APPLICATIONCONSISTENCY
6
This packet would receive no deductions even thoughthe strands are slightly inconsistent. If all packets were ofthis ranking, the candidate would receive an excellentscore for consistency.
Deduction: NONE
7
Space between weaves largerthan weaves
Weave 1/4”
Each packet containing bleach will be separated byone quarter of an inch of natural hair. In portions of thequadrant it will require more than one packet to go fromone edge of the quadrant to the other. Keep the packetsin line rather than using a brick laying pattern.
8
Space betweenweaves largerthan weaves
Weave 1/4”
145
If the candidate follows directions and leaves theproper amount of hair between the packets, there will beample space to apply the necessary number of packets toreceive an excellent score. You are encouraged to gothrough the performance examination using a conditioneras a bleach and making notes of your timing.
Deduction: NONE
Leaving too much hair between packets would notallow the candidate to have the correct number of packetsfor a good or excellent score.
Deduction: FOLLOWS INSTRUCTIONS CONSISTENCY
10
Here the upper portion of the right rear quadrant iscompleted with foil packets. The candidate may also startthe foil applicationat the nape and work upward towardthe crown. There is a ridge between the slice and weavesections. If there is an odd amount of hair between theweave and slice after completing your first portion, itmay be pinned out of the way before proceeding.
11
SLICING PROCEDURE
On the lower portion of the quadrant the slice tech-nique will be performed. The slice technique requires thecandidate to take a section of hair that is as thin aspossible. The thinner the better. The lines indicate thehair to be lightened, the spaces between indicate thedistance between the packets. The number of sectionsindicated on this mannequin is 12 sections. Not allmannequins are alike.
12
91/4”
DividingLine
1/4”
1/8”
1/4”
146
This slice too thick. The slice should be as thin aspossible.
Deduction: FOLLOW DIRECTIONS
The bleached sections are separated by one quarterinch of hair left natural. The entire lower portion of thequadrant must be completed before proeeding to theweave slice section.
15
The candidate may also start the slicing procedure atthe bottom of the section and work up. When the weaveand slice techniques are completed move to the next task.Do not wait for the evaluators to tell you to proceed, godirectly to the highlight retouch quadrant.
16
14
SLICE TECHNIQUE
The slice technique would require the sections to bethin and consistent. This degree of consistency isacceptable.
Deduction: NONE
13
147
The retouching of highlights is one of the mostchallenging aspects of haircoloring. The proper decisionsmade during this process will insure the client of healthyhair and the haircolorist a faithful client. It is for thisreason the highlight retouch is a mandatory technique forthe examination. Avoiding all of the previously bleachedhair and bleaching all virgin hair as in this photograph isdiscouraged. If this behavior is repeated throughout thissection it would result in a major deduction.
18
The evaluators will be checking the manner in whichthe candidate avoids the previously lightened hair. Theevaluators understand avoiding the previously lightenedhair entirely is nearly impossible, but much can be doneto retain the integrity of the hair. The amount of overlap-ping shown here is acceptable, also the small amount ofvirgin hair on the ends would not draw deductions.
19
With each section of hair placed in the packet there isa decision to be made. Evaluating the entire section willgive the evaluators a sense of how carefully the bleachwas applied. This packet is also acceptable.
20
HIGHLIGHT RETOUCH TECHNIQUE
The right front quadrant of the mannequin is utilizedfor the highlight retouch. The candidate must haveprepared the mannequin in advance as detailed in thechapter 'PREPARING THE MANNEQUIN.' Whenretouching the highlights in this section, an attemptshould be made to maintain the same degree of blonde.
17
148
When folding the packet, caution should be taken tonot have previously bleached hair that has been avoided,come in contact with bleach being applied. Thepreviously bleached hair was first avoided, then whenfolding the packet the hair was folded into the bleach.
Here the previously bleached hair has been avoidedand only the new growth bleached. This is a method usedon clients in order to minimize a blonde build-up. This isa technique that is encouraged.
23
Repeating this application throughout the quadrantwould be a major deduction. This pattern repeated wouldresult in blonde scalp and darker ends.
When the right side of the mannequin is completemove directly into the optional techniques. An evaluatorwill allow the candidate to draw the optional techniques.
24
22
In this foil, the virgin hair is all bleached with a smallsection of previously bleached hair avoided. Thisbehavior shows sensitivity to the client’s hair. Thecandidates need to demonstrate to the evaluators theability to utilize “stagger” technique. The “stagger”technique is defined as “staggering” the bleachapplication in the packet and not stopping the bleach atthe first sign of previously bleached hair.
21
149
GRAY REDUCTION
The left front quadrant shall be used for the grayreduction. This section is 75% gray hair. For grayreduction optional technique, the candidate will be askedto reduce the amount of gray hair by 25%. Thus whencompleted, the quadrant should appear to be 50% gray.The photo shows 10 fine slices. This would receive agood score.
26
Gray reduction is accomplished by isolating sectionsof hair with a fine weave and darkening the hair in thepacket. The candidate should formulate as though theclient is in the dark brown category.
27
Here is another method of accomplishing gray reduc-tion by utilizing papers and fine slices. The dark colorshould be applied as close to the scalp as possible withouttouching the scalp.
28
OPTIONAL TECHNIQUES
The left side of the mannequin will be utilized fortwo of five optional techniques. These techniques are:Gray reduction, high low lighting, bleach retouch, toneon tone and reverse highlighting.
25Reversehighlight
High-lowlighting
Bleachretouch
Grayreduction
Tone on tone
150
151
TONE ON TONE
Another task you may be asked to complete on theleft front quadrant is tone on tone. For the purpose ofthe examination, the tone on tone is described ascoloring all of the hair two different colors. Tone on tonemay be accomplished in a number of ways. Whencompleted the gray hair should be completely coveredwith the darker color and there will be anothercomplimentary tone of hair. The colors used should beat least two levels apart.
30
The tasks on the left side of the mannequin may becompleted with any tools or technique desired. Thedifference between gray reduction and tone on tone isthat gray reduction adds dark strands of color throughthe gray hair matching the natural pigmented hair, whiletone on tone covers all of the gray hair utilizing two dif-ferent colors. This tone on tone a level 7 color is used inthe packets, then a level 4 golden brown was appliedaround the packets.
31
The tone on tone in this photograph is accomplishedby first applying a light brown haircolor throughout thestrand, applying the cups and placing bleach in the cups.This will produce a light brown haircolor with goldenhighlights. The darker color may be applied first, as inthis method or it may be applied around the packets asin the previous technique.
32
Deductions will be made for large chunky streaks,color applied too far from the scalp and inconsistentapplication of color.
29
152
HIGhH- LOW LIGHTING
The high-low lighting technique is used for a varietyof situations. For the client whose hair is growing outfrom a too blonde look, either single or double processblonde. The client whose hair has become too blondefrom multiple highlights, wants to remain blonde butdisguise the demarcation line.
34
High-low lighting is utilized to restore a look ofnaturalness to the hair. The left rear quadrant has thelook of bleached hair that has grown out for twomonths. The candidate is asked to restore the haircolorto a natural looking highlighted effect. This is accom-plished by highlighting the new growth while addingdarkness to some of the bleached ends. The candidatemay utilize any tool or method of accomplishing thistask.
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The high low lighting technique used here is beingcompleted with the use of foils. When utilizing the highlow technique, you are attempting to maintain as much ofthe new growth such as you would in a highlight. In thesesituations the client desires to have their natural hair growout and only highlight their hair. In order to receive agood score the candidate must place no less than sevenhighlight packets and seven low light packets.
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Your two optional techniques may be accomplishedin any order you wish, however it is recommended youfirst do the rear quadrant. If the front quadrant on the leftside is done first, you are left working between two rowsof foils and it can be somewhat alkward.
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REVERSE HIGHLIGHTINGReverse highlighting is for the client who is tired of
coloring their hair and wants to return to their naturalcolor. Some of the existing blonde is isolated in order togive the client a highlighted effect.
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Reverse highlighting differs from high-low lighting.In reverse highlighting, the virgin haircolor at the scalp isnot preserved. Sleeves are being used here to isolate someof the blonde hair. The formula used to darken thelightened ends should reflect the fact there is no redundertones in the hair.
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To accomplish the reverse highlighting in thisinstance the blonde hair was isolated in foil with a thickconditioner. Color was then applied to the new growthand the blonde ends. For the examination, make certainthe hair being isolated is also colored from the scalp tothe demarcation line. If conditioner is used to isolate theblonde hair, red food color should be used. The foodcolor is furnished by the examination committee.
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Some of the foils in the high-low quadrant containbleach at the new growth. Other foils contain color fromthe demarcation line to the ends. Some of the pale yellowhair has been left untreated between each of the packets.When doing the high low lighting you can start at thenape or at the crown. First you do a highlight, then youleave some untreated hair, then you apply a low light,then leave some untreated hair. Continue this processuntil at least seven highlights and seven low lights havebeen applied.
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Bleach retouch will be another task the candidatemay be asked to perform. Evaluators will be looking forthe method of application, the amount of overlapping,amount of bleach used and neatness of the application.The bleach may be applied in whatever manner thecandidate prefers, Applicator bottle or brush and bowl areboth acceptable. Care should be taken to not get bleachon the other quadrants.
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Questions will be asked of the candidate on what-ever optional tasks are drawn. At the conclusion of theassigned tasks, the candidate will step away from themannequin and raise his/her hand until recognized by thetimekeeper. Do not leave the room unless givenpermission. (This is an option of the evaluator captain).Do not clean up until you return to pick up yourmannequin. The evaluators will indicate when your man-nequin may be picked up. The time required to removethe packets and evaluate the mannequins is determinedby the number of candidates.
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The result should be the same as if the hair has beenhighlighted in reverse. Thus, the name reversehighlighting. The degree of lightness or darkness isdetermined by the amount of blonde hair isolated, as wellas the depth of the color being used.
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Note: None of the procedures in the performance examination requirethe mannequin be shampooed and dried. All of the evaluation will be
done during the procedures and when the packets are being taken down.
