Half Boat Project - · PDF fileexactly that before starting our ½ boat project. ... the boat down to remove any dirt stains, ... You may wish to build in a live bait tank or a locker

Half Boat Project

For over a century we’ve been creating the most innovative paint solutions to protect, beautify and improve the performance of all types of boats.

No matter where you are, in whichever waters around the globe, you’ll findhigh performance coatings backed by meticulously researched knowledgeand support from International Paint.

Whether we’re in the lab researching and developing new products, or at seaputting our products to the test, we’re in our element. Getting the chemistryright is critical to us, as is knowing the subtle differences between people andwater all over the world. Wherever there are boats, we’re right at the heart ofthe matter, making connections, solving problems, sharing knowledge…

Our World is WaterWe are happy to share our knowledge with you and help with any questions,if you require further assistance you can find it at:

Australia: 1800 251 431

New Zealand: 0800 808 807

Pacific Islands: orders + 61 7 3892 8872

technical + 61 7 5573 9600

[email protected]

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Contents

Our World is Water

Introduction

Health & Safety

Create a work plan

Before you commence work

Understanding the stages of repair & restoration

Fibreglass repairs

Sanding

Masking

Priming

Undercoating

Top coating

Non skid

Product information

Equipment / Consumables

1

2

3

5

7

9

11

13

15

17

19

21

25

27

Notes 28

Introduction

Our World is Water1

Our ½ boat project is a perfect example of what can be achieved using International products. We intentionally chose a vessel that many would consider ready for the scrap heap to emphasise our point. Although our Technical Sales Reps are trained in paint application, we teamed them up withsome of our less qualified customer service and marketing staff to accomplishthe result you will see in the following pages.

You can achieve the same results in your garage at home. We used brushes,rollers and every day tools that you can buy at your local chandlery or hardwarestore.

In the following pages we will give you an overview of our process often referring you to other International manuals and brochures for more detailed information. All of these manuals are available at www.yachtpaint.com or call ourtechnical helpline to obtain a copy.

If you are somewhat apprehensive about your ability to complete such a taskkeep in mind that if you make a mistake with any of the filling and painting youcan simply sand the surface back ready for another attempt.

You are saving so much money by doing it yourself that the extra cost will be almost insignificant in the scheme of things.

So what’s holding you up let’s get on with it!

Health & Safety

Our World is Water2

• Ensure that you read all label instructions and safetydetails prior to starting your project.

• Wear safety glasses at all times to protect your eyesfrom splashes.

• Chemicals can cause skin irritation. Wear overalls and protective rubber gloves to protect your skin and clothing.

• To avoid inhalation of dust while sanding, wear a dust mask at all times.

• Many products contain either solvents or other chemicals that can build up in confined areas creating a hazard and/or an unpleasant working environment. If it is not possible to avoid these conditions wear suitable respiratory protection.

• Ensure all products are kept out of the reach of children both whilst using and when stored away.

Health and Safety…… two words almost guaranteed to make the reader skipthe article and move on to more interesting sounding topics….BUTDON’T….keep reading as it is important to know how to protect yourselfwhen using paints and chemicals.

Below is a list of basic information you need to consider before commencing any painting work. For more detailed information refer to ourproduct labels, Boat Painting Guide, Material Safety Data Sheets orwww.yachtpaint.com

Create a work plan

Our World is Water

• Determine which fittings need to be removed, replaced or repaired. By doing this you will know from the beginning of the project which holes need filling and which need to remain for replacement of fittings.

• Write out a list of repairs and determine whether they are structural, fibreglass or only require filling.

• Look at the extent of the repairs required and write out your work procedure.

• Using our Boat Painting Guide or www.yachtpaint.com determine what products will be required for the repairs (ie: fillers, glues, resins etc)

• Decide what International paint system you plan touse (after doing the compatibility test on page 5).

• List the tools and equipment required (refer to equipment, consumables and product pages at the back of this booklet).

3

Perhaps you know that your boat would look great after a little work but youdon’t know where to begin or you feel overwhelmed by the task. To simplify the project in your own mind you need to create a work plan. We didexactly that before starting our ½ boat project. The benefits of a work plan aremany and the time you invest in creating it will be valuable in ensuring your project is achieved on time, on budget and with fewer setbacks.

Simply write down all the events and activities that need to take place to complete the project as follows:

Create a work plan

Our World is Water

• Remember to include any health and safety clothing and equipment you will need.

• Avoid trying to do too much at any one time and make a list of jobs to do for each work session. As you complete jobs cross them off your list. That will give you a good feeling of achieving something and will stop you from getting side tracked.

• As you progress with the refurbishment new tasks may arise so add these to your work plan.

• Remember that some jobs will hold you up and prevent you from doing others so bare this in mind when organising your day.

• It is a good idea, as the last job of the day, to go around the boat and do any extrafilling of holes or scratches missed so at the next work session you can sand themback and prime them.

• A few minutes spent during an evening filling a few holes or sanding a small area can really help to move the job forward so at the next big work session you are notheld up.

• A little done often will progress your project faster than you ever thought possible.

4

www.yachtpaint.com

• Using your work plan gather all tools and materials required for the job and lay them out on a work bench

• Protect the floor if required – we used Tar paper (refer to consumables page 26)

• Wash the boat with a commercial grade detergent to remove any surface contamination.

• If you don’t know what paint is currently on your boat you will need to test the surface for product compatibility. This is necessary to ensure you avoid adhesion problems.

• Tape a cloth soaked in International Retarder ThinnersNo 9 to the existing surface for 24 hours. If the surface is softened the coating is probably a one pack system and should be removed or only be overcoated with a one pack system like Toplac®. If the coating remains hard you can use either a one packor a two pack system like International’s Perfection®.

• Positioning the boat…….Due to the extremely bad condition of the boat it was easier for us to remove the deck and turn the hull over. Alternatively, you could simply lean and secure the boat on each side as required to gain access.


Our World is Water5

It is important to prepare your work area before starting your project. By doingso your tools and consumables are organised and easily found when youneed them. When you have finished each day, return all tools to the workbench so that you know where they are the next time you need them.

Here are a few other tasks to carry out and points to remember before starting work.


Our World is Water6

• Before commencing work you should understand that surface preparation is the most important job when it comes to obtaining the best possible finish. 80% of the total project time should be spent repairing and preparing the surface before considering the application of any coating product.

• At any stage the surface should always be sanded back to a smooth finish. That way as the job progresses the surface will slowly become smoother and smoother resulting in a final finish that will amaze and delight you.

Stage One

Understanding the stages of repair and restoration

Our World is Water

Stage one is to remove fittings and perhaps the outboard plus other items that will be in the way. Cleanthe boat down to remove any dirt stains, oil spills, cobwebs and any other contamination on the surface.

Then it’s time to start repairing any damaged areas andadd in any other structural modifications you may want.You may wish to build in a live bait tank or a locker orperhaps a new floor, move or add a depth sounder oradd extra instrumentation. Now is the time to do all that.

Then you need to fill in any large holes or gaps left by allthis activity by some suitable means - be it with piecesof timber glued and glassed in and/or a lamination ofglass cloth and epoxy. Smaller holes, gaps and cracksare filled with Epifill® epoxy filler.

7

Essentially the sequence you are going to use is

Stage One Clean and RepairStage Two FillStage Three PrimeStage Four UndercoatStage Five Finish coats

Stage Four and Five

Stages four and five are the icing on the cake. By the time you start stage four allthe hard work of repairing, filling and sanding should have been completed. Theboat should be looking essentially neat with no unwanted holes, gouges or roughspots. The undercoat and topcoat will turn your pride and joy into an unbelievably good looking boat.

Understanding the stages of repair and restoration

Our World is Water

Stages two and three are probably going to be repeated a number of times. The sequence is to fill,sand, prime, sand, fill, sand, prime, sand and so onuntil all the repairs, holes, scratches and gouges are hidden from view. If you can still see them then youneed to do more sanding, filling and priming untilthey vanish from view. This can be hard work but iswell worth the effort. If you don’t make the effort atthis stage be prepared for a less than perfect finishthat you may be disappointed with.

During this stage when you have just about finishedyou may decide perhaps to do some coving workto smooth the lines between a cabin and the deck.No problems, simply sand the areas and apply yourepoxy filler as required and repeat the sanding,priming, sanding, filling until again it is all hiddenfrom view.

Once stages two and three are completed a goodtidy up is called for to get ready for the finishingstages that require more cleanliness if a good finishis to be obtained. Once stages two & three arecomplete the end is in sight.

8

Stage Two and Three

Fibreglass repairs

Our World is Water9

• Chip away any loose filler or gelcoat and then grind and chamfer the edges of the ding, crack or hole. This is done to remove any loose materials and to prepare the area.

• Holes that are filled can sometimes print or show through the finishing coats due to the difference in the expansion and contraction rates of the filler and the surrounding substrate. If dark paint is used this print through effect can be worse than for a light colour due to the higher temperature the surfaces can reach. To reduce this effect, holes or other defects filled with epoxy should be chamfered at a 6:1 ratio so the width of the edge is 6 times the depth of the hole (ie: the hole after preparation should look like a flattened cone. see Figure 1). This chamfering eliminates the hard joining line between two different materials and spreads the differential movement over a larger area making it far less obvious to the naked eye. Take care that the larger filler surface area is correctly shaped withthe surrounding area otherwise it may show up as a flat or raised bump in thefinish.

• Remove all traces of dust after sanding and wipe clean using Epoxy Thinners No.7

• Mix a suitable amount of Epifill® (2:1 mix ratio) and blend to a uniform colour.

• Use a trowel or knife to work the filler into the damaged section, overfilling the area slightly.

• After an overnight cure sand back to a flush finish.

• Refill any low spots or other defects noted.

Repairing small holes and cracks

Visitwww.yachtpaint.com

for a copy of ourHT9000® Epoxy Resin

manual for more detailed advice on using

this product.

Poor

Better

Best

Figure 1

Fibreglass Repairs

Our World is Water10

We removed the radio from our boat so had to repairthe large hole this created. Here’s how you would goabout doing a similar repair.

• Cut out a suitable size piece of marine grade plywood or solid timber and shape as required to be as snug a fit as you can make it.

• Sand the area around the edges to create a roughsurface that is chamfered slightly to accept the edges of a layer of glass cloth. Remove dust after sanding and wipe clean using Epoxy Thinners No.7.

• Mix a suitable amount of Epiglue® (2:1 mix ratio) and blend to a uniform colour.

• Apply Epiglue® to all surfaces where the timber will touch the fibreglass. Use clamps, screws, masking tape or any other appropriate device to hold the joint in place. Wipe away or smooth out any excess material using a scraper.

• Allow to cure overnight before sanding the exposed glue and generally smoothing the repair over. Fill any gaps with Epifill®.

• Mix up a suitable amount of HT9000® Resin. Brush the area with the HT9000® mixture. Whilst the area is still wet overlay a suitably sized piece of glass cloth lapping over onto the surrounding area that was previously chamfered slightly. Wet it out by stippling with a stiff brush and applying a further coat of mixed HT9000® resin until the grain of the cloth is full of resin. Seal any exposed timber with remaining HT9000® mixture.

• Allow to cure overnight and sand down. Using either Epifill® epoxy filler or HT9000® made into a filler mix, screed the filler over the surface to fill any imperfections or low spots. Cure over night and sand down. It should now be ready for the first of the priming coats of Interprotect® epoxy primer.

Repairing larger holes

Sanding


During the ½ boat project we did a lot of the sanding by hand but it is alsoappropriate to use an orbital or dual action sander to speed up theprocess. A dual action sander is the best option as it will give thesmoothest finish prior to top coating. If sanding by hand it is always betterto use a sanding block to achieve a smoother surface.

When sanding a white or light coloured surface you aremore or less sanding blind and you sand more by feelrather than by eye. It’s highly likely that sanding andscratch marks will still be present and your sanding jobwill be uneven. When you apply the next coat of paintthese marks will print through and can easily ruin anotherwise excellent finish.

International’s Sanding Guide Coat aids the human eyeby highlighting scratches into easily visible blue linesthat can be sanded away as you progress from coarseto fine sand paper.

When sanding, the sand paper grades used should become finer (higher numbers on the back of thepaper) as you progress through the filling, priming, undercoating and top coating sections.

The higher the level of finish you are aiming for, thefiner the paper you should use. Initially coarse paper isused on the substrate to ensure adequate adhesion ofthe initial layers of paint and fillers.

When sanding an undercoat prior to applying the finishcoat for example and if the finish is a little rough startwith 220 paper for the first all over sand and thenswitch to the finer grades.

Sanding


The hull and any glossy areas on the deck and cabin should be finish sanded with320 or even 400 if you are really keen.

Areas that are going to be non skid can be finished with 280 as any scratches will becovered over with the texture of the non skid area.

As a rough guide:

Sanding surfaces prior to initial priming: 120 Sanding fillers: Start with 80 to remove bulk material then finish with 100 - 120 (usealuminium oxide paper normally coloured blue or green)Sanding coats of primer: 120 - 220Sanding Undercoats: Start with 220 – 280 and finish off with 320 – 400Between finish coats 320 - 400

Sandpaper comes in many qualities with the cheaper varieties not always being uniformly the grit size stated or not lasting very long. The higher quality sandpapers, although more expensive, will last longer and save you time by cutting better andshould be used for at least the final sanding of undercoats and between finish coats.

Never think that partially worn out paper of any grit rating can be used as a finergrade. It doesn’t work like that! Worn out paper is worn out paper and should bethrown away. Using worn paper will either take you far longer to achieve the requiredfinish or at worse will scratch the surface making it even harder to obtain a good finish.

You can expect a standard sheet of sand paper to be sufficient for about one squaremeter.

Masking tapes are produced in various grades. A good quality tape is worth theextra cost as it will ensure a fine, even line and a sealed edge that doesn’t allow thepaint to creep under the tape.

Good masking tape stays stuck down but removes without tearing, splitting or leaving bits behind. Cheap masking tape may stay stuck down but may be difficultto remove and may even damage any newly applied paint in the vicinity.

Good masking tape also comes in a plastic cover/sleeve and, or has a sheet ofwaxed paper on both sides. This is there to protect the edge of the tape. If you remove the protective wrapper and lay the roll down on the bench, the edge of thetape will pick up dust, dirt and hairs etc. Then when you use it the edge of yourpaint line will show up as a rough ragged one rather than nice and sharp. So always look after your masking tape and keep the protective edge plastic in placeand it’s a good idea to keep it in a clean plastic zipper bag.

For curves use narrow masking tape to produce the required curve. Then back thatup with the normal width masking tape with brown paper.

For finish coats we used 3M Fine Line 218 to achieve clean crisp lines.

Masking Tapes

Masking


Masking may seem time consuming and you may be tempted to skip thisstep but we’d advise that you don’t. Masking helps you achieve sharp,even and professional lines that you’ll be proud of. It also protects anyareas you’re not painting from splashes and accidents. You may need torepeat the masking process at various stages of your project. Ensure thecoating is completely dry before carefully removing the tape.

Masking


Masking Paper

For masking use a medium weight brown wrapping paper. Cheap tape can be usedto stick it all together using the more expensive masking tape just along the paintingline.

Newspaper is not recommended as the print can tend to rub off.

Clear plastic sheeting can also be used but can be more difficult to keep in place.

Aluminium foil is also a good masking material for putting around odd shaped objectsor the ends of cables as it simply moulds to the shape.

Aluminium foil can also be used in paint trays to avoid the hassle and expense of trying to clean them out each time. Each time you use the tray simply join some aluminium foil to make it wide enough by triple folding two pieces together along oneedge and then lay in the tray and pat out and over the edge.

• Priming will require the use of rollers and trays for large areas and a variety of brushes of different widths for getting into those areas rollers won’t reach.Plus you may find some old jam jars or clean dry tin cans useful for mixing small amounts of paint in for painting smaller areas.

• Metal measuring spoons of various sizes obtainable from the supermarket are ideal for measuring small quantities of paint and hardener for the smaller touch up jobs.

• Primers are generally applied by professionals using spray equipment so that a heavy coat can be appliedin one application. Rollers and brushes only allow the application of thinner films of paint so more coats are required and typically 4 - 5 coats of Interprotect will be required to seal all the surfaces and allow for sanding back. These multiple coats can be applied quite quickly over each other as the first coat only hasto be left long enough for the next coat to be applied without lifting the previous coat. The product label lists suitable recoat times.

• Interprotect® also has an extended recoat time whichmeans that you can apply coats of itself over itself without having to sand between coats as long as the surface is clean and dry. This is ideal during the restoration process as it can reduce the amount of sanding that has to be done.

Priming


Priming is an important part of the restoration process because it is thebase on which the rest of the system will be applied. If the base isn’t goodand sound then the overall system will not be sound.

Priming


• Sanding is only required to help smooth out the coats you have applied and then finally it is required to ensure the finish is smooth and ready for undercoating. Mix the paint as per the label instructions and let it stand for 10 – 15 minutes before using. Any area to be primed should be clean and dry.

• When brushing or rolling lay on a good heavy coat but not so much that on verticalsurfaces it runs or sags as these can be hard work to sand away. Run your eye over your work area regularly and if you do see one quickly brush it out.

As stated at the beginning of this article the idea of priming is to ensure that all thesurfaces are well sealed off as this is the protective layer. All repair work, holes orother remedial work should be filled, primed and sanded as you proceed featheringedges out to nothing or into the surrounding area. Once all these areas have beenpatch treated a couple more coats of primer applied over everything will be required.

After sanding back, the job should now be ready for undercoating and top coating.

• Visit www.yachtpaint.com to view our Perfection®

DVD. Watching this DVD will give you a good visual representation of how to obtain the best finish.

• Vacuum or brush off any sanding dust and clean the hull with water and a mild detergent. Rinse well with fresh water and allow to dry very thoroughly.

• Shake or stir the contents of each component separately.

• Measure out appropriate volumes as shown on the product label into separate containers (3 volumes of base to 1 volume of curing agent). Stir thoroughly together and leave for 10 minutes to allow any bubbles to disperse.

• While you’re waiting wipe the hull with a tack rag to remove all final traces of dust.

• Start somewhere the overlap won’t be noticeable like on the bow or on the corner of the transom.

• Apply by roller an even coat on one section and lightly tip off the surface vertically with a brush to remove any roller stipple.

Undercoating


Undercoating requires more care and attention than priming as the aim isto apply an even overall coat with the smoothest possible finish so thatwhen sanded back you do not sand through to the primer.

We used Perfection® Undercoat as follows:

Undercoating


• Avoid applying the paint too thickly to avoid runs and sags.

• Move to the next section and roller and tip off with the brush in the same way.

• Along the overlap quickly work the brush up and down over the surface to merge the layers together and then lightly tip off with the brush vertically to finish.

• When you’ve finished the first coat clean the brush and suspend in Polyurethane Retarder Thinners No 9. Discard the roller when it’s dry.

• Refer to the product label for overcoating times as these will vary depending on theambient temperature.

• After an overnight cure check the surfaces for any runs, sags, bits of debris, or anything else on the surface and lightly sand away using 280 grade paper.

• At the appropriate time after cleaning any sanding debris away, apply the second coat in the same way as the first – rolling and tipping off with the brush.

• Leave the second coat to dry overnight following the guidance on the productlabel.

• The finish you obtain on this section will mirror exactly what you will see with the finish coat. Use International Sanding Guide Coat to better see where you have and have not sanded.

• Machine or block sand the entire surface using 320 – 400 paper making sure you do not sand through any areas back to the primer. Take particular care around theedges and consider hand sanding edges if you find you are over sanding these areas.

• Hand sand over the remaining areas that are too difficult to reach with 400 grit paper and a sanding block.

• Remove all traces of dust and clean the hull thoroughly.

• Stir the contents of each component separately.

• Measure out appropriate volumes (2 volumes of base to 1 volume of curing agent) as shown on the product label into separate containers. Stir thoroughly together and leave for 20 minutes to allow any bubbles to disperse.

• While you’re waiting wipe the hull with a tack rag to remove all final traces of dust.

• Ensure once again that your brush and roller are clean before you start.

• The paint will tell you if it is too thick or thin. If you are getting runs, which happens immediately as youput the paint on the surface, the paint is too thin or you are putting too much on. If you are seeing sags, that show up 5-10 minutes after you have completed the area, the paint is too thick and needsto be thinned.

Top coating


Having made it this far it is now time for the finish coats so ensure thewhole area is clean and that there is no dust likely to blow around. Makesure you are wearing dust free overalls and that all mixing and applicationstools are clean and dust free.

It is a good idea if possible to lightly spray water onto the floor to reducedust being kicked up as you move around.

Using Perfection® topcoat we followed these steps:

Top coating


• Have some Polyurethane Thinner No.9 on hand in case the mix needs to be thinned slightly and for cleaning up spills. Only add the thinner if the ambient temperature is high and the brush feels like it is dragging on the surface. Add no more than 10% thinner to the mix.

• Roll an even coat in the same way as you applied the undercoat but choose a smaller section so that the leading edge is still wet when you paint the next section. Lightly tip off the entire surface of the section with the brush in a vertical direction.

• Repeat the process until the first coat is completed and allow to dry overnight.

• Consult the product label for minimum overcoating times as they are temperature dependant.

• When ready to overcoat remove any imperfections like sags or dirt using 400 grade sandpaper and then lightly sand the entire surface with the 400 grade paper.

• Remove all traces of dust with tack rags immediately before applying the second coat.

• Repeat the mixing and application process above and the application is complete.

• Some colours may require an extra coat to achieve full coverage so repeat as for the previous coats.

Allow hull to cure for a couple of days before moving or carrying out any further work.

• The easiest way is to shake the Intergrip powder onto a layer of wet paint. One way to do this is to take the Intergrip container and drill many 3 mm holes in the lid and use the container like a large pepper shaker. Shake the powder on untilthe whole surface is covered by a layer of powder. Allow the paint to semi-cure and then blow the excess powder off the surface and apply a further coat of paint to seal it all down. The jar of Intergrip that now has a holey lid can easily be sealed by using a layer of cling wrap over the top before putting the lid back on.

• Another way is to stir the Intergrip into the paint and then apply. This method can be a little tricky as you have to ensure the Intergrip doesn’t bunch up under the roller or brush giving a patchy effect.

• The other method is to hand broadcast the Intergrip on to the surface as if you are sowing grass seed.

How to apply the Intergrip material

There are various ways of applying the actual Intergrip material and it comes down topersonal preference as to how you might wish to approach the job. You may haveother ideas and it really doesn’t matter as long as you achieve the effect you want.

Non skid


Although there is no single, universally proven deck surface that will prevent people from slipping on a boat deck, a low-cost, slip resistant finish gives added protection and can be created easily.

A deck demands a tough coating to protect it from the damaging effects offoot traffic, anchors and other gear that descend upon it so a two part polyurethane paint like Perfection® with a non-skid additive like International’s Intergrip is your best option. You aren’t limited to using atwo-part paint though, you can also add Intergrip to a one part paint likeToplac® or you could use Interdeck which is pre-mixed and already con-tains a non slip additive.

Non skid


How to produce the non skid area

• Firstly ensure the second coat of the top coat you applied is well cured and that you adhere to the drying and overcoating times listed on the topcoat label.

• Mask the area off in the pattern intended for non skid. You can use 3M® 218 Fine line masking tape which will go around curves very well or youcan use normal masking tape laid down in strips at the corners and then carefully cut into a curve.Cans and jars of various sizes are useful as templates to achieve the exact curve you want.

• Paper mask off the area you want to protect.

• Lightly abrade the exposed areas with 280 grade paper.

• Apply one coat of topcoat as described in the top coating section of this booklet.

• Using one of the methods described above apply the Intergrip material while the Perfection®is still very wet.

• Allow the coat of paint to dry for the appropriate period. Do not exceed the overcoating time as you will have to sand which is not easy on a nonskid surface.

• Very carefully vacuum or blow off any excess Intergrip.

• Carefully apply a second coat of Perfection®topcoat taking care to tip this coat without over brushing.

• Allow to dry for a few days before allowing heavy traffic use.

Product information


REPAIRS

EPIGLASS® HT9000®HT9000® is suitable for laminating, sheathing, gluing, filling and fairing when mixedwith the appropriate HT extenders.

EPIFILL®Epifill® is a general purpose, two-pack epoxy filler designed for a wide range of fillingapplications in both marine and general areas.

EPIGLUE®Epiglue® is a non staining, high-strength, gap-filling two-component epoxy resin adhesive used in boat construction and repair.

TWO PACK SYSTEM

INTERPROTECT®Interprotect® is a quick drying, easy sanding, white, two-pack, epoxy primer whichgives excellent protection to all steel, aluminum, timber, cementitious, epoxy andpolyester type surfaces.

PERFECTION UNDERCOATPerfection Undercoat provides long overcoating times to allow coat-on-coat easy application. Perfection Undercoat rubs down to an exceptionally smooth, semi-glossfinish which allows easy checking for hull fairness.

PERFECTION®Perfection® is the ultimate performing, 2-part polyurethane gloss finish that containsa unique package of Hindered-amine light stabilisers and UV absorbers to protectagainst premature ageing. It provides a longest lasting, ultra high-gloss finish that hassuperb colour retention and exceptional durability. Perfection® has been formulatedspecifically to enable amateur users to achieve professional quality results with easeon topsides, superstructure & decks.

Product information


ONE PACK SYSTEM

YACHT PRIMERYacht Primer is a fast drying single pack general purpose primer for use prior to theapplication of a single pack undercoat. It is quick drying and easy to sand.

PREKOTEPrekote is a white, one-pack, easy to use undercoat with excellent covering powerand easy sanding properties.

TOPLAC®Toplac® is a superior quality one-pack silicone alkyd finish. It contains superior UV filters giving it extended gloss and retention characteristics. Toplac® is extremelysmooth flowing allowing for an easy to apply deep, lustrous finish.

MISCELLANEOUS PRODUCTS

SANDING GUIDE COATA product that will assist users when sanding surfaces, by reducing print through andenabling scratch marks from sanding to be more easily seen and then removed.

THINNERSInternational carry a wide range of solvents suitable for thinning and clean up. Referto the product label of the product you are using to determine the thinner required.

For information on the rest of International’s range of products visitwww.yachtpaint.com or call our helpline for a copy of the Boat Painting Guide or

other product brochures.

Our World is Water

Product information


Product Coveragem2/l

MixRatio

Thinner Sandable@ 230C

Overcoat@ 230C

Min Max

Interprotect® 9 3:1 Epoxy Thinner No.7 16-24 hrs 16 hrs -

Perfection®Undercoat

8.5 3:1 Polyurethane RetarderThinner No.9

16-24 hrs 10 hrs 2 days

Perfection® 12 2:1 16-24 hrs 6 hrs 2 daysPolyurethane RetarderThinner No.9

Yacht Primer 10 - Enamel Thinner No.1 6-8 hrs 8 hrs 24 hrs

Single Pack System

Prekote 9 - Enamel Thinner No.1 16-24 hrs 24 hrs 2 days

Toplac® 13.3 - 16 hrs 8 hrs 2 daysEnamel Thinner No.1

Two Pack System

Sizes available - Two Pack

Interprotect 4L , 1L , 500mlPerfection Undercoat 3L , 1LPerfection Topcoat 2.25L , 1L

Sizes available - Single Pack

Yacht Primer 375ml , 750ml , 2.5LPrekote 375ml , 750ml , 2.5LToplac 750ml , 2.5L (white only)

Product information


Volume of paint required in litres

Primer* 4-5 3.6 3.4 1.6 8.6

Primer** 2-3 1.8 1.7 0.8 4.3

Undercoat 2 1.8 0.8 4.51.9

Number of coats Hull exterior Hull interior Deck Total

Topcoat 2 1.3 0.6 3.31.4

* These volumes are for a boat in very poor/bad condition.** These volumes are for a boat in a poor condition.Volumes of undercoat and topcoat remain unchanged.Note that topcoat volume is for a white and shades of white. Colours such as dark blue and red may require the application of extra coats depending on your expertise.

Boat Type - Basic Runabout

Hull Length 4.2mBeam 1.7m

Measured areas m2

Hull exterior 7.25Transom 0.9Deck 3.5Hull interior 7.6

How much paint will i need?

Equipment


ConsumablesInternational Products (Paints, glues, fillers, resins etc)Miscellaneous pots, cans and jarsMasking tapeMasking paperAluminium foilSanding paper (various grades)BrushesRollersRags & clothsTar paper if covering the floor

Health & SafetySafety glassesDisposable glovesOverallsFace masksEar plugs

Sanders (Dual action and/or orbital types)4’ Angle grinder with abrasive discsScrew driversHand sanding blocksWoodworking filesHand planeSkarsten scraperScissorsDrillChiselsHand saws

Sharp knife with spare bladesRoller traysVacuum cleanerPlastic BucketsTape MeasureMarking pencil

Half Boat Project

Notes


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Find even more at yachtpaint.com

• Comprehensive boat painting guide

• Product data sheets

• Handy hints and tips

• Frequently asked questions

• Where to buy International Paint products

• And much more info to help make paintingyour boat easy

Akzo Nobel Pty Limited International ®, the Akzo Nobel logo and other products mentioned

in ths publicaton are trademarks of, or licensed to Akzo Nobel. © Akzo Nobel 2009

Statements made in this brochure are advisory only and are not intended tobe specific recommendations or warranties of any product, combination ofproducts or fitness for any particular purpose. Please consult our product labels, product data sheets and/or Material Safety Data Sheets directly forcomplete technical information.

Our World is Water

International Paint

Free Technical Helpline: Australia 1800 251 431 New Zealand 0800 808 807 Pacific Islands + 61 7 5573 9600 Asia +65 6453 1981

www.yachtpaint.com

v2

Documents

Half Boat Project - · PDF fileexactly that before starting our ½ boat project. ... the boat down to remove any dirt stains, ... You may wish to build in a live bait tank or a locker