Hibiscus and cornflower – raw materials for natural hair dyeing Katarzyna Pytkowska Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland

Hibiscus and cornflower – raw materials for natural

hair dyeing

Katarzyna PytkowskaAcademy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland

Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care

Plant preparations for hair dyeing Plants have been used for dyeing hair for

ages Henna (Lawsonia inermis)

• lawsone, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone Green shells of walnut (Juglans regia)

• juglone, 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone German chamomille (Chamomilla recutita)

• Apigenin Indigofera tinctoria

• Indigotin


Other plants of interest Other plants used traditionally for hair

coloration in Europe Sweet sedge (Acorus calamus) Rhubarb (Rheum spp.) Oak bark

Plants containing high amount of dyes and pigments of intense shade Hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa) Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus)


Mechanisms of action of plant dyes Reactive dyeing

Maillard reaction with keratin • lawsone, juglone

Direct dyeing Adsorption of dyes/pigments on the hair

cuticle• Apigenin• Other flavonoids• Other substances


Hibiscus sabdariffa petals The main

ingredient of hibiscus infusions

the additive to other blends of herbs Strong ruby-red

colour and characteristic aroma


Colouring agents in hibiscus flavonoids

anthocyanides, flavonols

• E.g. delphinidin (1), delphinin, cyanidin (2), hibiscetin, gossipetin and their glycosides.


Problems with natural dyes Natural dyes are (in solutions):

not very stable, prone to oxidation, browning, UV discolouration etc. highly pH sensitive

none of these adverse effects are applicable to the dry powdered material containing natural dye

but … in-home application of packs and pastes prepared from

dry herbal material could be difficult Colour effects are sometimes dificult to predict Colour is strongly determined by the plant


Factors influencing intensity and durability of color the kind of hair and the damage intensity, initial hair colour, earlier application of synthetic dyes

and/or bleaching products, structure of a natural dye, frequency of the application of plant

preparation, the temperature of dyeing mixture duration of the mixture - hair contact


How to change colour coming from natural dyes? … by complexes formation or

destabilization Mordants Chelating agents

… by dye absorption HMW additives to formulation

Our research


Hibiscus We used the following types of

preparations for research dyeing blend

• Infusion of H. sabdariffa petals in water in proportion 1: 10, applied cold,

dyeing rinse• Infusion of H. sabdariffa petals in water in proportion

1: 20, applied warm, dyeing pastes

• thickened preparations based on the dyeing blend The colour of the dyeing preparation

strongly depends on pH


pH value Colour ot the dyeing blend

3,12 Intense pink-red

3,35 Pink-red

4,80 Light pink

5,58 No colour

6,57 Light yellow

7,09 Brown-yellow

7,65 Light blue

7,90 Brown-blue

> 7,90 Brown-blue


Rinse

Colour effect 2x 2 min. 4x 2min.

Dark brown - -

Medium brown +++ +++

Golden reflexes ++ +++

Red shade - -

Conditioning ++ ++

+++ dominant colour, ++ additional shades, - none Shade: +++ strong shade, ++ visible shade, + light shade, - no shade

Conditioning effect: +++ strong, ++ good, + slight, - none


Paste with kaolin 20 min.

Paste with kaolin40 min.

Paste with wheat bran20 min.

Paste with wheat bran40 min.

Dark brown +++ +++ ++ +++

Medium brown ++ - +++ ++

Golden reflexes

+ - ++ +++

Red shades - + - -

Conditioning effect

+ - ++ +++

+++ dominant colour, ++ additional shades, - none Shade: +++ strong shade, ++ visible shade, + light shade, - no shade

Conditioning effect: +++ strong, ++ good, + slight, - none


Hibiscus Effects

Slight colour effect on dark hair Strong conditioning Adsorbents change the colour effect

Preparations for grey or bleached hair


Grey or bleached hair Problem – too yellow shade

Remain of phaeomelanin in originally blonde, grey hair

Insufficuent bleaching Solution – optical brightening

Sorption of blue dye/pigment on the hair surface – use of blue pigment-rich raw material

Removal of red/yellow dyes from a natural raw material by sorption or complex formation

pH shift of colour (not applicable to human hair)

Hibiscus preparations


Additive pH valueColour

uniformity

Hair shade

pink blonde

No additive 3,17 + + + + + + -

Rice mash 3,25 +/ - + + +

Kaolin 3,25 - + +

Corn flour 3,31 - + +

Wheat bran 3,36 + + + - + + +

Oat bran 3,38 + + + - + + +

Colour uniformity +++ uniform, even colour; +/- quite even colour ; - uneven, not uniform colour

Colour+++ dominant shade; ++ additional shade; + very light shade;

Effects of inorganic additives


Mordants used in traditional textile dyeing Alum (potassium aluminum sulfate)

does not affect colour strongly. It is usually used with potassium tartrate, which helps to provide evenness and will also brighten slightly.

Iron (ferrous sulfate). It will sadden or darken colours,

Tin (stannous chloride) blooms or brightens colours, especially reds, oranges

and yellows. Almost always used with potassium tartrate. Not allowed for use in cosmetics

Copper (copper sulfate) saddens colours and brings out greens.


Chromametric analysis L*a*b* scale


Natural blond hair dL*(D65)da*(D65

)db*(D65

)dE*ab(D65

)

Hibiscus sabdariffa, pH=3,3

-5,22 -1,99 -4,32 7,06

Hibiscus sabdariffa + Fe2O3; pH=3,3 -3,29 -2,02 -7,45 8,39

Hibiscus sabdariffa, pH=5,8

-3,11 1,41 -2,63 4,31


Hibiscus sabdariffa + Fe2O3 + trisodium EDTA -9,07 3,77 -4,59 10,84

Hibiscus sabdariffa + trisodium EDTA

-9,72 5,99 -6,48 13,13

(Chromametr Konica-Minolta: Chroma Meter CR-400)


Bleached hairdL*(D65)

da*(D65)

db*(D65)

dE*ab(D65)

Hibiscus sabdariffa, pH=3,3 -6,19 2,42 -6,44 9,25


Hibiscus sabdariffa, pH=5,8 -7,97 -4,79 -10,55 14,06


Hibiscus sabdariffa + Fe2O3 + trisodium EDTA

-9,99 7,71 -14,43 19,17

Hibiscus sabdariffa + trisodium EDTA

-9,67 5,72 -12,42 16,74

Cornflower preparations


Cornflower The main blue

pigment of cornflower petals is a complex compound of flavonoids and Al ion (protocyanin)


Cornflower preparations We used the following types of

preparations for research dyeing blend

• Infusion of cornflower petals in water, applied cold, dyeing rinse

• Infusion of cornflower petals in hot water• The infusion changed the colour to strawberry-red

The problem The stability of Al-flavonoid complex


Cornflower Application on bleached hair

Decrease of b* parameter in chromametric evaluation

Colour shift by mordants Cu and Zn containing mordants shifted

the cornflower-based colour to the blue region

The effect was similar to the effect of pure mordants


Conclusions Hibiscus-based raw materials should

be fully applicable to hair care cosmetics for grey and

bleached hair plant-based dyeing preparations

Cornflower is a plant of high interest The main problem to solve is blue

pigment stability in solutions


Acknowledgments I would like to thank the researchers

involved in the project: Stanislaw Krus MSc, Halah Faraj BSc, Sylwia Antczak BSc and Ewa Pawłowska.

Documents

Hibiscus and cornflower – raw materials for natural hair dyeing Katarzyna Pytkowska Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland