◎ HIGH ADVENTURE IN HUALIEN <2009-05-13>

HIGH

ADVENTUREIN HUALIEN

The Great Outdoors Beckon inTaiwan's East

The modestly sized island nation of Taiwan hasa relatively large population of 23 millionpeople, the vast majority of which are squeezedinto Taipei and the cities dotted along the plainsof the west coast, including Taichung andKaohsiung. On the other side of the north-southCentral Mountain Range is Taiwan’s sparselypopulated and spectacular east coast. Here themountains meet the sea, and the scenery isbreathtaking. In stark contrast to the bustlingurban jungles on the west side, the east coast is awonderland of natural beauty, small-towncharm, and aboriginal culture.

ituated a third of the way down the east coast from Taipei isthe city of Hualien, which shares its name with the surroundingcounty. Hualien is a green, spacious small city set on a plain

between the Pacific Ocean and the high mountains, and itsinhabitants include a mix of members from various local aboriginaltribes. Just over two hours away from Taipei by way of the TarokoExpress tourist train, Hualien is an ideal base for those seeking thethrills of outdoor adventure. Hiking, mountain biking, river-tracing,kayaking, and surfing are all popular activities around here, as itreally is the perfect place to do all of them.

River-tracing has become very popular in recent years, and isbasically a combination of trekking, climbing, and — sometimes —swimming in a river. The best way to do this is to get in touch withone of the local river-tracing guides. Mr. Zhang Guan-zheng atPeace Diving, for example, will take you on all sorts of adventures including diving,hiking, white-water rafting and, of course, river-tracing. His outfit is one of the bestoptions for an exciting and safe river-tracing experience in Hualien.

River-tracing is one ofthe most exciting

outdoor activities ineastern Taiwan,

combining physicalchallenges with

exploring pristinenatural environments

S

Our river-tracing adventure begins when we are pickedup at Hualien Railway Station and driven along thebackroads of rural Hualien into the nearby mountains.After a quick stop for registration at a police station, theroad narrows and we drive through an indigenous villageat Taroko Gorge and up to a clearing where wetsuits,booties, lifejackets, and life vests are distributed. Havingchanged into our river-tracing gear, we get back in thevan and drive higher up into the mountains beside acrystal-clear river. At an old dam the van stops and outwe get, our bodies tingling with anticipation of what is tocome.

Before long we arewading through water,

pushing against strong currents,scrambling over boulders,

and moving through gushing cascades

After some warm-up exercises our guides lead us intothe water. It's cold but refreshing. We are taught how tostep on slippery rock and the best method for offering ahelping hand. Before long we are wading through thewater, pushing against strong currents, scrambling overboulders, and moving through gushing cascades. Guidesand teammates are quick with a helping hand or a shoutof encouragement.

At one point we find ourselves in a unique location.We are standing waist-deep in a swirl of bubbling currentunder one of many overhanging rock faces encountered,with thick torrents thundering off the rock at multipleangles creating walls of water in front of us. Here we finda strange tranquility amidst the cacophony, and whilstsome teammates move past us and beyond the water-walls, we stay awhile and just be.

Having Fun Together River-tracingis a great team experience whereparticipants learn to rely on eachother

There's time to play about, too. We lie atop the water, hands grasping the collar of ourlife vests in a fashion similar to an Egyptian mummy, as a guide holds each of us in turnagainst the current for a moment before letting us go. We go with the flow, shootingthrough bottleneck rapids into pools below.Soon it’s time to take a rest. Our guides cook lunch with fresh local ingredients and sharetheir knowledge of the surrounding flora and fauna, such as how to tell the differencebetween wild taro and its poisonous look-alike. There is a swimming hole nearby, andwhen the guides turn their full attention to our food preparation we climb up onto thesurrounding rocks and jump off, yelling and waving as we fall.

Liyu Lake is a great place to getout on the water and go kayaking,motor-boating, or pedal boating

After a filling lunch and much playing about — if you're lucky you may encountersome monkeys before they disappear for their midday nap — it's time to head back downthe river. We are more accustomed to the flow of the water and to the feel of the wet rockunderfoot now, and we move with more ease. We are also a little more daring when it'stime to play in the current, and the increased team spirit has created a trust usuallypresent only amongst old friends.

Outdoor ActionKayaking and riding abike rented from theGiant Bicycle RestStation are two optionsfor having fun at LiyuLake

Eventually we find ourselves back at the van. Our journey hasalmost come to an end. Changing out of our wetsuits and loading upthe van, we are sad to leave the rushing river, but we smile when weremember that we can always return to trace this, or another, riverwith our newfound friends.

If still water is more your thing, head to Liyu Lake, about 25minutes' driving from Hualien City. The lake is named after LiyuMountain which is located by its east banks. Cafés and a lakesidepark look out over this picturesque body of water, backed byforested mountains. It's a great place to go kayaking, motor-boating,or pedal-boating. There are many businesses renting these craftalong the shore. One, called Dongbei Wharf, is run by Mr. Yan Jian-xiang, who rents outpedal-boats and kayaks. Mr. Yan also offers motorboat cruises if you're feeling lessenergetic.

Just down the road you will find the Liyu Lake Giant Bicycle Rest Station, where youcan buy or rent Taiwan's very own Giant bicycles for a leisurely land-cruise along thelakeside and further exploration of the countryside. For more of a challenge you can alsocycle into the mountains behind Liyu Lake. Rental bikes on offer include electric bikes,tandem bikes, and bikes for children.Prices for one-hour rental are NT$100 for mountain bikes and recreational bikes, NT$150for electric bikes and tandems, and NT$80 for children’s bikes. Prices are higher duringweekends and holidays.

Fifteen km north of Hualien City is the world-famous Taroko Gorge, the centerpiece ofTaroko National Park. This is one of Taiwan’s top tourist destinations, and it’s not hardto see why; amongst the towering marble-lined cliffs, wild rivers and streams, and lushvegetation are a multitude of trails leading to mountainside temples, hot springs, andsweeping views of the mountains and sea. It really is a hiker’s dream-come-true. Thereare campsites and hotel/hostel accommodation within the park, and buses run frequentlyto and from Hualien throughout the day. The headquarters of the national park, locatednear the eastern entrance to the gorge, provides maps of the hiking trails, updates on theircurrent condition, bus schedules, and other information.

With its multitude of trails,Taroko really is a hiker's

dream come true

If you drive 30 minutes south of Hualien onProvincial Highway No.11, you will find JiqiBeach. If surfing is your thing, or you just want toplay about in the sand and surf, this is a fine placeto get yourself to. At the south end of the beach isthe Jichi Beach Resort, offering all sorts ofequipment for beach activities, bungalow-style

accommodation, and a camping ground. Baqi Outlook stands on a mountainside at thenorthern end of the beach, offering a brilliant view of the bay.

So, when you've had enough of the hustle and bustle, the crowds, the traffic, the noise,and the pressure of Taiwan’s big cities, don't forget that not far away is a place where youcan leave all that behind. Get yourself to Hualien County, take a deep breath of the freshair, and embark on an adventure you will never forget.

CONTACTS

PEACE DIVINGTEL: (03) 832-6444 or 0917-

982-433 (Mr. Zhang)ADD: 341 Heping Rd., Hualien

City(花蓮市和平路341號)

EMAIL:

peace.diving@msa.hinet.net

BLOG: http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/peacedivingclub (inChinese)The price for river-tracingis NT$1,000 per person.

DONGBEI WHARFTEL: 0913-510-391 (Mr. Yan)ADD: 70 Chinan Village, Sec. 1, Shoufeng

Township, HualienCounty (花蓮縣壽豐鄉池南村一段70號)

EMAIL: manmangod@yahoo.com.twPRICES:

Pedal boat NT$300 per 2 people, NT$600per 4 people, kayak NT$300 per person,motor boat cruise NT$100 per person.

JICHI BEACH RESORTTEL: (03) 871-1251ADD:6-1, Jiqi Village, Fengbin

Township, Hualien County花蓮縣豐濱鄉磯崎村6號之1

WEB:

www.kalulu.com.tw

LIYU LAKE GIANT BICYCLE REST STATIONTEL: 038 641-892ADD: 27 Chinan Rd., Sec. 1, Shoufeng Township, Hualien County

花蓮縣壽豐鄉池南路一段27號BLOG:

http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/jw!KPbxNFuTQUeIAtpOSI7zTLg- (in Chinese)