HIGHLIGHTS TOUR

ALLIANCE FOR DOWNTOWN NEW YORK

HIGHLIGHTS TOURFor more than a century, New York City lay entirely south of Chambers Street. Today, the city encompasses the entire island of Manhattan and four additional boroughs. With more than 400 years of living history and amidst an ever-expanding city, Lower Manhattan has remained the capital of world commerce and a center for government and finance.

From City Hall to The Battery, this tour offers visitors an overview of some of the most significant sites in Lower Manhattan.

HIGHLIGHTS OF LOWER MANHATTAN

City HallThis is the oldest “city hall” in America to serve its original purpose: as the place where the Mayor and the City Council conduct the City’s business. Built between 1803 and 1812, it was situated on what was then the northernmost edge of the populated city. Though City Hall’s front façade was built in marble, its back was faced in cheaper brownstone -- no one foresaw that the city would expand beyond Lower Manhattan.Old as City Hall may be, the Park is much older, going back to Colonial Dutch days.

When construction began on City Hall in 1803 , most of the population of the city lived and worked south of present-day Chambers Street. No one, including architects Joseph

Francois Mangin and John McComb could conceive that the city would expand further north, hence the main entrance to the building is located on the south facing side. They also covered the less-seen northern side in an inexpensive brownstone, rather than the more expensive white marble material used on the “front.” As the city expanded further and further north over the 19th century, the cost- saving effort became more obvious but the old brownstone was not actually replaced with limestone until 1956! (The same time the white marble which had badly deteriorated was replaced with limestone as well.)

The style merges exterior French Renaissance design and interior Federalist features to create an eclectic architectural fusion. During 1858 a fireworks display celebrating the first transatlantic telegraph cable nearly destroyed the building. Although the cupola caught fire and was severely damaged, the rest of the building remained intact. Despite several renovations to the building, and the expansion of city offices into other nearby buildings, City Hall remains one of New York’s most impressive Federalist era structures.

Surrounding City Hall is the 8.8-acre City Hall Park, one of the most historic green spaces in New York. Originally called “The Commons”, it was public grazing land in the 17th century. Starting in 1736, a series of buildings, including an almshouse and prison, were built here by the British. The park is best known for the July 9, 1776 reading of the Declaration of Independence by George Washington. The centerpiece of the modern park is the 1871 Jacob Wrey Mould fountain and gas lamps. There are also historic statues of Nathan Hale and Horace Greeley as well as frequent temporary art exhibits.


Brooklyn BridgeThe Brooklyn Bridge is one of the most well-known New York landmarks and considered by many to be the world’s most beautiful. Completed in 1883, it joined New York and Brooklyn – what were then two separate cites. Designed by German immigrant John Augustus Roebling, it was the world’s longest suspension bridge, and its enormous support towers were once New York’s tallest structures. This iconic bridge has been a National Historic Landmark since 1964.

The Brooklyn Bridge was built between 1869 and 1883 at a cost of more than $15 million. The bridge is 5,989 feet long with a center span of nearly 1,600 feet. At center

span there is 145 feet of clearance, allowing enough room for U.S. Navy vessels to travel between the nearby Brooklyn Navy Yards and the harbor. More than 125,000 vehicles and 25,000 pedestrians cross the bridge daily.

Roebling designed every aspect of construction before work on the bridge commenced. This proved to be fortuitous, as Roebling was fatally injured during an early survey for the project, and the building task fell to his 32-year-old son, Civil War veteran and engineer Washington Roebling. After the younger Roebling contracted “caissons disease”, now better known as “the bends”, much of the building management responsibilities were undertaken by Washington’s wife, Emily Warren Roebling.

The opening ceremony for the Brooklyn Bridge was held on May 24, 1883. President Chester Arthur and New York City Mayor Franklin Edson walked over the bridge from Manhattan and were met by Brooklyn Mayor Seth Low at the Brooklyn tower. Following a brief ceremony, the bridge was opened to the public. Ailing Washington Roebling was unable to attend, and his wife Emily was given the honor of being the first non-official to cross between the two great cities. That same day, 1,800 vehicles and 150,300 people followed. One week later, on May 30th, a rumor circulated that the bridge was collapsing and, amidst the panic, a stampede ensued, killing a dozen people. The rumor proved false. The great circus showman, P.T. Barnum, ultimately put the question of safety to rest by parading 21 elephants across the span on May 17, 1884.

The 1983 Brooklyn Bridge centennial celebration included a vehicle parade lead by President Ronald Reagan. There was also a tremendous flotilla of tall ships and an evening fireworks display presented by the famous Grucci Fireworks Company.

Woolworth BuildingThis 60-story masterpiece - once the world’s tallest – was dubbed the “Cathedral of Commerce.” The breathtaking lobby contains jewel-like mosaics, filigree brass work and, hidden among the gnarled gargoyles tucked into the corners, figures of Frank Woolworth and architect Cass Gilbert. Woolworth, of “five-and-dime” store wealth, and fame paid $13.5 million, in cash, to build it between 1910 and 1913.

The “Cathedral of Commerce”, designed by Cass Gilbert and built as the headquarters for Frank Woolworth’s department stores, held the coveted title of world’s tallest building until losing it in 1930 to 40 Wall Street. The Gothic Revival-style draws attention with its

ornate, detailed terra-cotta clad exterior and grand, vaulted lobby ceiling. The building was constructed to advertise and thereby increase profits of Woolworth’s stores. As Gilbert said, a skyscraper is “a machine that makes the land pay.” Sadly, the lobby is no longer open to the public.


Woolworth’s stores introduced a new kind of “self-service” shopping experience. Instead of a clerk retrieving items, customers could browse the aisles and help themselves. Woolworth theorized that people would increase buying if they had a more “hands-on” shopping experience. Although there are no longer any Woolworth stores remaining in the U.S., the “self-service” style based upon Woolworth’s model is evident throughout the modern-day shopping experience. A major difference to note –Woolworth’s merchandise could be purchased with cash only. No credit, no exceptions! And Woolworth practiced what he preached. The $13.5 million Woolworth building was paid for in cash.

St Paul’s ChapelThis is the oldest public building in continuous use New York City. Built in 1766 as the “uptown” extension of Trinity Church a few blocks south, 18th century regulars included George Washington, who walked here from Federal Hall to attend a service of thanksgiving following his first inauguration. His pew, carefully preserved, is still on view. St. Paul’s has survived fires, blizzards and the World Trade Center terror attacks on September 11, 2001.

Modeled after London’s St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields Church, architect Thomas McBean completed this Georgian-style rural chapel in 1766. It is hard to image St. Paul’s as a rural church, but it stood on the outskirts of what was then the settled city. This

location contributed to its survival when the Fire of 1776 destroyed much of the city below. After his April 30, 1789 inauguration at Federal Hall on Wall Street, President Washington received the well-wishes of the crowd, then walked here to attend mass. With an unsettled future, Washington carried the hopes of all who had sacrificed for independence. Hanging over the Washington pew is one of the first painted renditions of Charles Thompson’s 1782 design for the Seal of the United States.

More than two hundred years later, St. Paul’s offered a place for rest and refuge to those working in the rescue and relief efforts following the September 11th attacks on the World Trade Center, which was located across the street, just west of the chapel. St. Paul’s has now become a museum and shrine to the history of post-9/11 recovery efforts in Lower Manhattan and memorials from around the world.

St Paul’s was originally entered from Church Street and through its cemetery as Broadway was reserved for cattle and heavy traffic. For the past 150 years, entry to the church has been on Broadway, through its “back door.” The chapel, with its simple interior and 14 original cut-glass chandeliers, contains several monuments and memorials, and was declared a National Historic landmark in 1960.

Federal Reserve BankOne of the most important and powerful institutions in Lower Manhattan, the New York branch of the Federal Reserve Bank is housed in this imposing 1924 building modeled on a Italian Renaissance palace. More than one quarter of the world’s monetary gold supply is securely stored five stories underground in a vault closed with a mammoth steel door weighing 90 tons.

Prior to the creation of the Federal Reserve System in 1913, the federal government had no way to regulate market cycles. Starting in 1837 and continuing every twenty years or so, the country experienced massive economic upheavals that devastated businesses

and nearly bankrupted the country. Without a national bank, the federal government had to turn to private bankers like J.P.


Morgan for a “bailout” when gold became scarce. The 1913 Federal Reserve Act created the Federal Reserve System, including twelve regional Federal Reserve Banks.

The responsibilities of the Federal Reserve include regulating banking institutions, managing the nation’s money supply, and maintaining stability in markets. New York’s Federal Reserve Bank holds approximately 7,000 tons of gold (an estimated 540,000 gold bricks) accounting for approximately 22 percent of the world’s gold supply. Only a small fraction of the gold here belongs to the United States, with the bulk belonging to foreign governments and international organizations. They store their gold here for three reasons: first, the Bank’s location in the heart of the world’s financial center; second, its unrivaled security; and third, the trading mechanism made possible when so many countries make payments to each other, so gold bars are simply wheeled from one vault to the next. Visitors may recognize the building from the film Die Hard: With a Vengeance. Rest assured: the break-in as portrayed in the movie would be impossible to execute!

Trinity ChurchTrinity Church is one of the oldest institutions in New York, founded in 1697 by royal charter. Built in 1846, this lovely neo-Gothic building is the third Trinity Church erected at this site. The church spire was the tallest structure in New York until the Brooklyn Bridge towers were built 30 years later.

The current Trinity Church is the third building on the same site. The Great Fire of 1776 consumed the first Trinity Church, and the roof of the second one collapsed after a series of heavy snowfalls in the winter of 1838-1839. Richard Upjohn designed the existing Trinity Church, which opened in 1846 as the tallest structure in New York City. Upjohn

started a trend by using brownstone for the building’s façade, followed by other builders around the city who began using the same brownstone material to construct fashionable townhouses. The use became so prevalent in new construction that a “townhouse” in another city is a “brownstone” in New York, no matter the actual color of the building.

At its peak, Trinity owned all of the land between Fulton and Christopher streets from Broadway to the Hudson River. Trinity channeled its economic power throughout the city by establishing schools, chapels and other charitable institutions and gave away land to the city and other religious institutions in the 19th century. By 1894 it owned over 300 apartment buildings, making it the largest landlord in the city.

The cemetery is open a wonderful “who’s who” of New York history. Alexander Hamilton, Robert Fulton and members of the Astor family are buried here. There is a grand statue of John Watts, the royal recorder for King George III. Founder of New York University, Albert Gallatin and the great Colonial newspaper publisher William Bradford are laid to rest here as well. The large monument to the victims of the British prison ships during the American Revolution is in the northern corner. The cemetery is open to the public.


WTC SiteThe National September 11 Memorial is defined by two enormous reflecting pools that sit in the footprints of the Twin Towers, a grove of trees, and the names of nearly 3,000 people inscribed in bronze. The 9/11 Memorial is a national tribute of honor and remembrance to the victims of the terror attacks of February 26, 1993 and September 11, 2001 at the World Trade Center site, near Shanksville, PA., and at the Pentagon.

Wall StreetWhen the Dutch settled here in 1626, Wall Street – where there really was a wall to defend the city of New Amsterdam --marked the city’s northern limit. Today, “The Street” remains a symbol of the American financial system. This, of course, leads to both protest and praise.

Originally “de Waal Straat,” the Dutch planned Wall Street as the northern boundary of New Amsterdam. Governor Peter Stuyvesant called for a defensive wall to protect the city from hostile natives. Unfortunately for Stuyvesant, the poorly built wall offered no protection against a sea invasion. When the British navy arrived outnumbering the Dutch

by about three to one, Stuyvesant surrendered to British rule. The legendary wall itself lasted less than two decades – first built in 1653 and finally removed in 1669.

Wall Street has been a center of commerce and trade since the late 18th century: Alexander Hamilton founded the Bank of New York, the oldest bank in the United States, on the corner of Wall and William streets, in 1784; the New York Stock Exchange was established in 1792, when 24 independent traders began trading stocks under a buttonwood tree on Wall Street. The NYSE moved to its permanent location at Wall and Broad streets in 1903, and J.P. Morgan built his headquarters at 23 Wall Street in 1914.

In addition to housing financial giants, Wall Street, albeit very briefly, housed a literal giant—the tallest building in the world for about a week. In May 1930, the newly constructed 70-story, 40 Wall Street lost out by the height of a flagpole to the Chrysler Building for the coveted title of “World’s Tallest Building.” Eleven months later, the Empire State Building took over as the world’s tallest building at 1,454-feet to the top of the spire.


New York Stock Exchange | 8-10 Broad Street

The New-York Stock Exchange traces its history to the signing of the “Buttonwood Agreement” in 1792. The agreement set the basic rules for trading that are still used today. Little did those early 24 traders know that this agreement would evolve into the epicenter of the financial world as we know it. Since 1903, the NYSE has been here on the corner of Broad and Wall streets. Within these walls billions of dollars worth of stock are traded every day, although much of it is done electronically today.

Before the signing of the “Buttonwood Agreement”, many of New York’s financial lead-ers had been informally trading the $80 million Congressional bonds issued to pay the

States’ debts from the Revolutionary War. In May 1792, a group of 24 brokers met in the Tontine Coffee House at 68 Wall Street and signed the “Buttonwood Agreement” under a buttonwood tree. The agreement stated that the brokers would deal solely with each other and would charge a small commission for transactions. The NYSE moved to the existing Roman-style building located at Wall and Broad streets in 1903. The marble frieze atop the building depicts “Integrity Protecting the Works of Man.”

Perhaps the most infamous date in NYSE history is October 29, 1929, “Black Tuesday”, the stock market crashed. Stocks lost $14 million in value on a single day and a then-record $16 million of stocks were sold, leading to the Great Depression.

From 24 founding members in 1792, the Exchange has grown to 2,300 member companies and trades about $45 billion every day. The historic merger of the New York Stock Exchange and Euronext in 2007 created NYSE Euronext –the world’s largest global marketplace—representing trillions of dollars in annual trading.

Federal Hall National Monument | 26 Wall Street

This is the site of New York’s second city hall and of George Washington’s inauguration as America’s first President. The post-revolutionary Congress met here and adopted the Bill of Rights, the first ten amendments to the Constitution. The current, Greek Revival building, was built in 1842 as the Custom House. Today, Federal Hall is a museum operated by the National Park Service.

Before George Washington took the presidential oath from a second-story balcony, this site served as New York’s city hall, starting in 1700. One of the most important legal battles of the colonial period took place here in 1735, when John Peter Zenger,

a newspaper publisher was tried for committing libel against the British royal governor. He was acquitted on the basis of publishing the truth and established the foundation for the freedom of the press.

The first Congress of the United States met here starting in the mid-1780s. During this period Congress debated and accepted the Bill of Rights. In 1787, Congress also adopted the Northwest Ordinance, creating America’s first organized territory, beginning the quest for westward expansion. This area later became the states of Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Ohio and Wisconsin. For as long as New York served as the nation’s capital, most of offices of the new federal government were housed here. In 1790, the nation’s capital moved to Philadelphia.

The building that now sits at 26 Wall Street shares only a footprint with its predecessor. The city demolished the old City Hall/Federal Hall in 1812, and rebuilt it in 1842 as the Greek Revival structure currently standing. It served as a Custom House and sub-treasury building, holding gold and silver reserves in the basement vaults. Federal Hall received federal landmark status in 1939 and is now a National Parks Service museum.


Fraunces Tavern | 54 Pearl Street

This brick-Colonial Revival building is the anchor of the Fraunces Tavern Historic District. Fraunces Tavern was originally built in 1719 as a private residence. Owned by Samuel Fraunces in the years leading up to the American Revolution, the Sons of Liberty gathered here on a regular basis. Upon his retirement from military service on December 4, 1783, George Washington hosted a farewell dinner in the third-floor Long Room. The Sons of the Revolution in New York State saved Fraunces Tavern from destruction in 1904. Today, Fraunces Tavern is a public restaurant and museum.

In 1719, French Huguenot Stephen De Lancey built a mansion here for his family. In 1762, his descendents sold it to Samuel Fraunces, an immigrant from the West Indies. Fraunces opened the Queen’s Head Tavern and quickly became famous for his cooking skills. But New Yorkers didn’t go to his tavern for just a meal; they also went for the political discussions and organization. Before the Revolutionary War, the tavern hosted the Sons of Liberty and the Committee of Correspondence (which became the Continental Congress under the Articles of Confederation). During the war, the British captured Fraunces and forced him to cook for the officers. As a prisoner and cook he overheard strategic plans that the officers discussed in his presence, and slipped the information to General Washington’s army. He also helped feed and support the 13,000 American soldiers being held prisoner aboard ships in the New York harbor.

On December 4, 1783, General George Washington retired from military service in the Long Room. Toasting his officers he raised a glass and said “with a heart full of love and gratitude, I now take leave of you. I most devoutly wish that your latter days may be as prosperous and happy as your former ones have been glorious and honorable.” The Long Room has been restored to recreate that moment.

Fraunces’ Tavern continued to serve as the offices of Foreign Affairs, the Treasury, and the War Department until 1790. After his inauguration, Fraunces served as household steward and chef to President Washington and his family in both New York and Philadelphia. In 1794 Fraunces opened a tavern in Philadelphia, where he died the following year.

The building remained open throughout much of the 19th century, but was severely damaged by several fires and subjected to numerous renovations. All that remains of the original building today are the foundations and some of the bricks in the western wall.

Bowling Green ParkThe history of this small space goes all the way back to the 1630s, when the Dutch declared it the site of the annual cattle and grain market. In 1733, three colonists leased it from the English crown for the nominal fee of one peppercorn a year and it became New York’s first park. The British installed a statue of King George III in 1770 and built the fence to protect the statue soon after. The statue was torn down on July 9, 1776 by an angry mob. The fence remains intact.

It is hard to imagine how much activity took place in this small space. Bowling Green was the only green space in Lower Man-hattan for many years. It was home to a cattle market, a sporting field for lawn bowling, and the site of numerous anti-British protests. Where we now see a fountain at the center of the park once stood a gilded lead life-sized statue of King George III, installed in 1770, surrounding by an iron fence for protection. After George Washington ordered the Declaration of Independence


read on July 9, 1776, the crowd marched south and destroyed the king’s statue. The lead went to a Connecticut foundry for mus-ket balls. Wanting to leave no sign of monarchy, the crowd ripped the ornamental crowns off of the fence posts, which still bear the uneven tops from the event.

After the American Revolution this area became one of the most desirable residential neighborhoods in the city. Beautiful Federalist townhouses were built around the park. There were plans to erect the presidential mansion on the southern side of the park, where the U.S. Custom House now stands. By the late 1840s the area had transformed into a shipping and business center, with the wealthy residents moving uptown.

The sculpture, “Charging Bull,” sits at the northern tip of Bowling Green. The sculptor, Arturo di Modica, deposited the 7,000 — pound bronze sculpture in front of the New York Stock Exchange on the night of December 15, 1989 as a symbol of recovery following the October 1987 crash. The police impounded the sculpture the next day because it obstructed traffic and di Modica did not have a permit. After a long public battle over the bull’s future, it ended up, here, in a “temporary” location, where it still stands today.

U.S. Custom House | 1 Bowling Green

The Alexander Hamilton U.S. Custom House was designed by Cass Gilbert and built between 1902 and 1907. It is a glorious Beaux-Arts building with four large sculptures in front designed by Daniel Chester French. It was originally built to house the import duty operations for the port of New York. It is currently home to the New York branch of the Smithsonian Museum of the American Indian and federal Bankruptcy Court.

As the nation’s busiest port, New York collected more than two-thirds of all customs revenue, essentially financing the federal government. The size and ornamentation of the building reflect the importance of the business conducted within, and the increased

power of the United States on the world stage. Customs, or taxes on imported goods, played a critical role in funding the federal government. Until the ratification of the 16th amendment in 1913, the federal government had no power to tax individuals. The only way it could collect income was through the sale of land or by taxing liquor and imported goods.

Daniel Chester French – the sculptor of the statue of Lincoln in the Lincoln Memorial in Washington, D.C. — designed the statues at the base of the U.S. Custom House. They represent (from left to right) Asia, America, Europe and Africa. Along the pediment is a series of statues representing the history of seafaring nations. A statue of Mercury, the god of commerce, presides over the building. The interior is equally splendid, including a rotunda with a sky-lit dome. A cycle of murals commissioned by the WPA and painted by Reginald Marsh, dating from 1937, depicts the progress of an ocean liner entering the New York City harbor.

After the Customs offices moved out of this location in 1973, the building stood vacant and was nearly destroyed. It was desig-nated on New York Historic Landmark and New York Senator Daniel Patrick Moynihan secured funding to save the building and convert it into a museum. Today, this building houses the National Museum of the American Indian, part of the Smithsonian Institution, and Federal Bankruptcy Court.


Battery ParkNamed for the battery of cannons that protected the harbor. From the waters edge, the Dutch, British and Americans all protected Manhattan against possible attack or invasion. The modern, 25-acre park is mostly landfill. Within Battery Park can be found numerous memorials, the ferries to Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty as well as Castle Clinton.

Originally known as Capske Hook, an Indian term meaning “rocky ledge,” the Battery ran in an irregular line between what is now Battery Place and New York Harbor and much of the park between Castle Clinton and the U.S. Custom House rests on landfill—the shoreline was slowly extended in the 18th and 19th centuries. New Yorkers built Castle Clinton between 1808 and 1811 on a small island connected to Manhattan by a one

hundred-yard causeway. In 1826, Castle Clinton became the “Castle Garden,” and served as a promenade, restaurant and theater. P.T. Barnum debuted Jenny Lind, the “Swedish Nightingale,” here in 1850.

Castle Garden operated as New York’s immigration center from 1855 to 1992. In those years between eight and 12 million men, women and children from Europe and Russia entered America through its doors. Ellis Island opened in 1892, and replaced Castle Garden as New York’s immigration reception center. Today, it serves as the departure point for the Ellis Island and Statue of Liberty ferries.

Battery Park also contains several memorial monuments. A flagpole donated by the Netherlands in 1926 depicts the 300th anniversary of the Dutch arrival to the island of Manhattan. On the southern end of the park is the Hope Garden, a memorial to AIDS victims. Battery Park also hosts the East Coast Memorial commemorating American servicemen who died in the Atlantic Ocean during World War II. The Museum of Jewish Heritage on the western edge of the park honors victims of the Holocaust.

Stone StreetMost of the streets in Lower Manhattan have names with historic significance. In the 1650s, this former dirt road became Dutch New Amsterdam’s first paved street. Stone Street originally ran from Broadway to Hanover Square. It was divided into two short sections when 85 Broad Street was built in the 1980s. The eastern section of Stone Street is pedestrian-only and is lined with outdoor tables from the wide array of restaurants.

Brewer Stephanus Van Cortlandt’s wife reportedly complained about the dust raised by passing vehicles on the dirt road approaching their home. Residents of what was then “Brouwer Straet” claimed that it was “becoming more and more unfit for public use” and asked that the city “pave the said street with round stone on the first favorable

opportunity.” To celebrate the first street paving in New Amsterdam in 1655 the city changed the name to “Stone Street.”

Stone Street originally ran from Broadway to Hanover Square, but in the 1980s, 85 Broad Street, the former Goldman Sachs world headquarters, bisected the street. Stone Street is now a charming pedestrian passage lined with restaurants. The 23,000 paving stones in the historic district date from a renovation in 2000. The low, brick buildings give a hint of what New York would have looked like in the mid-19th century.

At the intersection of Mill Lane and South William Street stood a large windmill constructed in 1626. In 1628 the first Dutch Reform congregation used the second-story loft for services until they built a church nearby. Shearith Israel, the city’s first Jewish congregation, used the same loft to worship as early as 1682. They built their first permanent synagogue on South William Street in 1730.

Little Mill Lane also has its share of history. It was here that Dutch governor Peter Stuyvesant officially surrendered the city to the British, turning New Amsterdam into New York in 1664.

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HIGHLIGHTS TOURCity HallBrooklyn BridgeWoolworth BuildingSt. Pauls ChapelFederal Reserve Bank

Trinity ChurchWTC SiteWall StreetNew York Stock ExchangeFederal Hall National Monument

Fraunces TavernBowling Green ParkU.S. Custom HouseBattery ParkStone Street

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HIGHLIGHTS TOUR