HIKING & TRAMPING IN New

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Andrew Bain, Jim DuFresne

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Taranaki & SouthernNorth Islandp110

Fiordland & StewartIsland/Rakiura

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West Coastp218

Canterbury, Arthur's Pass& Aoraki/Mt Cookp188

Mt Aspiring National Park &Around Queenstownp238

Northland,Auckland &

Coromandelp56

Tongariro, Te Urewera &Central North Islandp90

Abel Tasman, Kahurangi& Nelson Lakes

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Queen Charlotte &Marlboroughp138

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to New Zealand. . .4

New Zealand Map . . . . . . . .6

New Zealand’s Great Walks . . . 8

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . . 14

If You Like... . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Choosing Your Tramp . . . 23

Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . 28

New Zealand’s Birds. . . . 34

Safety in the Outdoors . . . 38

Clothing, Equipment & Food . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47

Regions at a Glance . . . . 52

NORTHLAND, AUCKLAND & COROMANDEL . . . 56Te Paki Coastal Track . . . . . 59Cape Brett Track . . . . . . . . 63Rangitoto Island Loop . . . . 66Aotea Track . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70Coromandel Walkway . . . . 76Kauaeranga Kauri Trail . . . 78Karangahake Gorge . . . . . . 82Towns & Facilities . . . . . . 85Auckland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85Kaitaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Russell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Whangarei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88Thames . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89

TONGARIRO, TE UREWERA & CENTRAL NORTH ISLAND . . . . 90Tongariro National Park . . . . . . . . . 93Tongariro Alpine Crossing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95Tongariro Northern Circuit . . . . . . . . . .98Te Urewera . . . . . . . . . . . 102Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103Towns & Facilities . . . . . 106Taupo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106Turangi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107National Park Village . . . . 108Wairoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109

TARANAKI & SOUTHERN NORTH ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . .110Egmont National Park . . . . . . . . .113Around the Mountain Circuit . . . . . . . 115

Pouakai Circuit . . . . . . . . . 118Pouakai Crossing . . . . . . . 121Mt Taranaki Summit . . . . 123Ruahine Forest Park . . . 123Sunrise Track . . . . . . . . . . 124Tararua Forest Park . . . 126Mt Holdsworth–Jumbo Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Cape Palliser . . . . . . . . . 129Putangirua Pinnacles . . . 130Towns & Facilities . . . . . 132New Plymouth . . . . . . . . . 132Napier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133Palmerston North . . . . . . 134Masterton . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Wellington . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136

QUEEN CHARLOTTE & MARLBOROUGH . . . 138Queen Charlotte & Marlborough Tramps . . . 141Queen Charlotte Track . . . 141Pelorus Track . . . . . . . . . . 146Kaikoura Coast Track . . . . 151Towns & Facilities . . . . . 154Picton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Kaikoura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155

ABEL TASMAN, KAHURANGI & NELSON LAKES . . . 156Abel Tasman National Park . . . . . . . . 159Abel Tasman Coast Track . . . . . . . . . . . . 160Kahurangi National Park . . . . . . . . 166Heaphy Track . . . . . . . . . . 167Tableland Circuit . . . . . . . 172Nelson Lakes National Park . . . . . . . . 174Lake Angelus Track . . . . . 179

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ON THE TRACK

Contents

St Arnaud Range Track . . . 180Travers-Sabine Circuit . . . 181Towns & Facilities . . . . . 184Nelson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184Motueka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185Takaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Karamea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187

CANTERBURY, ARTHUR’S PASS & AORAKI/MT COOK . . .188Banks Track . . . . . . . . . . . . 191St James Walkway . . . . . . 194Arthur’s Pass National Park . . . . . . . . 198Avalanche Peak . . . . . . . .200Goat Pass Track . . . . . . . . 202Harper Pass . . . . . . . . . . .204Bealey Spur . . . . . . . . . . . . 207Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park . . . . . . . . 209Mueller Hut Route . . . . . . 210Hooker Valley Track . . . . . 212Towns & Facilities . . . . . 214Christchurch . . . . . . . . . . . 214Akaroa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215Hanmer Springs . . . . . . . . 216Arthur’s Pass . . . . . . . . . . 217Mt Cook Village . . . . . . . . 217

WEST COAST . . . . . . 218Old Ghost Road . . . . . . . . 221Paparoa National Park . . . . . . . . 224Inland Pack Track . . . . . . . 226Westland Tai Poutini National Park . . . . . . . . 229Welcome Flat . . . . . . . . . .230Towns & Facilities . . . . . 233Westport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233Greymouth . . . . . . . . . . . . 234Punakaiki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235

Fox Glacier . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236Franz Josef Glacier . . . . . . 237

MT ASPIRING NATIONAL PARK & AROUND QUEENSTOWN . . . . 238Mt Aspiring National Park . . . . . . . . 241Routeburn Track . . . . . . . . 242Greenstone Caples Track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246Rees-Dart Track . . . . . . . .250Cascade Saddle . . . . . . . . 253Rob Roy Track . . . . . . . . . . 256Gillespie Pass Circuit . . . . 257Queenstown & Wanaka . . . . . . . . . . . . 260Ben Lomond . . . . . . . . . . .260Roys Peak . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262Diamond Lake & Rocky Mountain . . . . . . . .264Towns & Facilities . . . . 266Queenstown . . . . . . . . . . . 266Wanaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267Glenorchy . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269

FIORDLAND & STEWART ISLAND/RAKIURA . . . . . . . . 270Fiordland National Park . . . . . . . . 273Milford Track . . . . . . . . . . . 274Hollyford Track . . . . . . . . . 279Kepler Track . . . . . . . . . . .284Gertrude Saddle . . . . . . . . 287Hump Ridge Track . . . . . . 289Stewart Island/ Rakiura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293Rakiura Track . . . . . . . . . .294Towns & Facilities . . . . . 297Te Anau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297Invercargill . . . . . . . . . . . . .298

New Zealand Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302

Environment . . . . . . . . . .312

Directory A-Z . . . . . . . . . 320

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 327

Accommodation . . . . . . 335

Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . .351

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Wing into Christchurch and stock up on supplies before heading for some of the South Island’s best tracks.

Head south past gorgeous Lake Tekapo, taking in the obligatory view at the Church of the Good Shepherd, before continuing on to Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park. Warm up your tramping legs on the easy hike through the Hooker Valley before giving them a sterner test on the Mueller Hut Route, staying up high in one of NZ’s loftiest huts.

Drive on over Lindis Pass into the adrenaline bowl that is Queenstown. Get perspec-tive from atop Ben Lomond, and detour out past Wanaka into Mt Aspiring National Park to climb to a glacial extravaganza on the Rob Roy Track. Only in Queenstown can you then give your legs a rest by taking a bungy jump, or by skimming across Lake Wakatipu in a shark-shaped vessel.

Cross the Southern Alps on the Routeburn Track before taking a day off to ogle, cruise or kayak Milford Sound, before returning to Queenstown along the Greenstone Caples Track, which horsehoes through two distinctly different valleys – take your pick – that meet near the shores of Lake Wakatipu.

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Kick off your tramping bonanza in metropolitan Auckland. Warm up with a day hike on the volcanic island of Rangitoto, before driving north to the beautiful Bay of Islands. Set out on foot from its shores to rugged, lighthouse-tipped Cape Brett, getting a differ-ent perspective on the famed Hole in the Rock along the way.

Head south to the sun-soaked Coromandel Peninsula to explore its myriad attractions as well as venturing in to Kauaeranga Valley to scale the Pinnacles. Travel south, getting steamed and sulphured at Rotorua and Taupo before donning the backpack again among the volcanic landscapes of Tongariro National Park. Savour them on the Tongariro Northern Circuit, or, if time is tight, traverse the much heralded Tongariro Alpine Crossing.

Head to Wellington to wander through the national museum, Te Papa, before cross-ing Cook Strait to the South Island. Stretch your arms now as well as your legs in Abel Tasman National Park, home to the most popular of NZ’s Great Walks as well as golden beaches and turquoise waters begging to be kayaked.

Two more national parks – Kahurangi and Nelson Lakes – lie nearby. Tramp the Heaphy or Lake Angelus Tracks on your way to the wild West Coast. Follow the stunning coast road, pausing at the Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki.

Keep on trucking south towards glacier country. Take a guided glacier walk onto Franz Josef Glacier before tramping into Welcome Flat for a well-earned soak in the hot springs. Having cleared Haast Pass, head for lakeside Wanaka, from where you can head into Mt Aspiring National Park along the Matukituki Valley, veering away onto the Rob Roy Track to find a dramatic grandstand position beneath a hanging glacier.

Head over the Crown Range to the self-branded ‘adventure capital of the world’, Queens-town. Take your pick from some of NZ’s most fabulous tramps – the Routeburn, Greenstone Caples and Rees-Dart. Head round to the almost-mythical Milford Sound, arriving by vehicle through the Homer Tunnel or on foot along the Milford Track, the tramp once de-scribed as the finest walk in the world. Finish by heading back to Queenstown, where you can wind down in one of its many inviting bars.

8 WEEKS

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TongariroNational Park

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Abel TasmanNational Park

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Ease into things with a couple of days in Christchurch, before heading inland and upland to Arthur’s Pass National Park, where Bealey Spur rewards trampers with a simple climb that’s blessed with views. Head north to the hot pools of Hanmer Springs before continuing to Nelson Lakes National Park, spending your days on the Mt Robert or St Arnaud Range climbs, and your nights in local accommodation. Meander through the Motueka Valley, popping in to the Tableland in Kahurangi National Park before hitting Abel Tasman National Park and the most idyllic of NZ’s Great Walks. You might want to hang around for a few days to get a different perspective on the park from a kayak or boat.

Indulge in the fine local food and wine in Nelson, then wind your way eastwards to Picton along the scenic Queen Charlotte Drive. Cruise through the Marlborough Sounds, then hit the Queen Charlotte Track while your bags are ferried ahead of you by water taxi. Take a restorative tour of Marlborough’s world-class wineries before hopping the ferry to Wellington.

Stroll into cinematic excellence at Putangirua Pinnacles, with plenty of time left in the day to visit the lighthouse and seals at Cape Palliser. Head north to discover one of the easiest ways to an alpine pass in NZ on the Sunrise Track before stopping for a couple of days in art-deco Napier in sunny Hawke’s Bay. Gorge yourself on the region’s ample produce, then burn off the calories on its flat cycling trails.

Venture into mystical Te Urewera to complete the Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk then soak up some Māori culture and a good dose of sulphur at the many geothermal delights of Rotorua. Be sure to soak away any tramping aches in a hot spring here.

Swing across to Taupo, the lakeside resort just a stone’s throw from Tongariro National Park and the legendary Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Check out the twinkling glowworms of Waitomo Caves before heading to Auckland, finishing your journey with an easy day tramp on volcanic Rangitoto Island or heading further north for a cou-ple of days on the rewarding and dramatic Cape Brett Track.

4 WEEKS

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Begin in Auckland and head south to the geothermal hot spot of Rotorua, where geysers, bubbling mud, steaming vents and Māori cultural performances await.

Venture into densely forested Te Urew-era and tramp the Great Walk around Lake Waikaremoana, before driving to Taupo to do a skydive, raft a river or catch a trout.

Nearby is volcanic Tongariro National Park, home to the famed Tongariro Alpine Crossing, almost universally claimed as NZ’s best day tramp. Then retire the boots for a few days as you splash into the Great Walk that’s actually a river paddle: the 145km Whanganui Journey through the North Island’s largest lowland wilderness, Whanganui National Park.

Truck west to Egmont National Park and the near-symmetrical cone of Mt Taranaki. Tracks abound on the mountain, but it’s worth tramping the Pouakai Crossing to decide for yourself whether it’s actually better than the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Loop back to Auckland via Waitomo Caves, where you can ogle at glowworms or don a wet suit and abseil and river-tube deep into subterranean passages and caverns.

Start in vibrant Nelson before heading off on this tour along the spine of NZ’s South-ern Alps. Drive to Nelson Lakes National Park, where the Lake Angelus Track climbs up Robert Ridge for sweeping views of the Southern Alps.

Wend your way through the wild Buller Gorge, which doubles as the starting point for one of NZ’s newest tramping tracks, the Old Ghost Road – if time is tight, you can always mountain bike it.

Take in the Pancake Rocks at Punakai-ki as you briefly touch the west coast, before heading east to Arthur’s Pass Na-tional Park to scale Avalanche Peak.

East of the pass, stick close to the moun-tains on the Inland Scenic Route through to Tekapo and Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park, where you can climb to Mueller Hut for views of NZ’s highest mountain, or stroll through the Hooker Valley for

Swing through Wanaka and into Mt Aspiring National Park, climbing high to Cascade Saddle or low (but with high views) on the Rob Roy Track. Finally, make an alpine crossing on the Routeburn Track before finishing in Queenstown.

3 WEEKS

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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340340

WRITER THANKSAndrew BainBig thanks to an army of DOC staff who provided invaluable help with this edition. To Lizzy Sutcliffe for being my go-between, Phil Brownie for your update, and to DOC staff across the country, including Des Williams, Lizzie Coates, Trish Grant, Amy Rutledge, James Barsdell, Fiona Oliphant, Sarah Ensor, Jennifer Ross, Ray Bellringer, Jayne Ram-age, Jess Curtis, Sarah Keeble, Sorrel Hoskin, Neil Murray, Margot Ferrier, Graeme Kates, Helen Dodson and Jose Watson. Thanks also to Derek Brenchley at the Ngai Tūhoe, Phil Rossiter at the Old Ghost Road, Nathan Watson at the NZ Mountain Safety Council,

Emily Thorn at Auckland Council, Cedric Wedderburn at the Hump Ridge Track and Heather Macfarlane at the Kaikoura Coast Track. To Jason and Megan Hopper for a whole bunch of stuff, including the excellent company on the trails, I owe you one.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Routeburn Track, Mt Aspiring National Park, Top-Pics TBK/Alamy ©

Behind the Scenes

THIS BOOKThis 8th edition of Lonely Planet’s Hiking & Tramping in New Zealand guidebook was researched and written by Andrew Bain, with contri-butions from Brett Atkinson, Peter Dragicevic, Samantha Forge, Anita Isalska and Sofia Levin. The previous edition was written by Sarah Bennett and Lee Slater, and earlier editions were written by Jim DuFresne. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Tasmin WabySenior Product Editor Kate ChapmanProduct Editor Jessica RyanSenior Cartographer Diana Von HoldtBook Designer Gwen CotterAssisting Editors Michelle Bennett, Nigel Chin, Peter Cruttenden, Melanie Dankel, Andrea Dobbin, Jennifer Hattam, Jodie Martire, Lou McGregor, Kristin Odijk,

Monique Perrin, Simon WilliamsonCartographer Michael GarrettCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Izzy Bowles, Jakob Burger, Jennifer Carey, Daniel Corbett, Paul Cu-churean, Shona Gray, Jane Grisman, Liz Heynes, Andi Jones, Sandie Kestell, Emiel Konings, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Kirsten Rawlings, An-gela Tinson, Tracy Whitmey

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAbel Tasman Coast Track 9,

160-6, 161, 9accommodation 162-3guided tramps 163maps 162travel to/from 163

Abel Tasman, Kahurangi & Nelson Lakes (region) 53, 156-87, 158

books 157climate 156gateway towns 157internet resources 157travel seasons 156visitor information

centres 157Abel Tasman National Park

159-66environment 159history 159packing 160planning 159-60travel seasons 159-60

accessible travel 320accommodation 335-8,

see also campsites, huts, lodges, individual accommodation types, individual tracks

activities 28-33, see also individual activities

Ada Pass Flats 196Ada Valley 197Ahukawakawa Swamp 120air travel 327-9Akaroa 215-16Alpine Memorial 213Amoeboid Mire 287Anakiwa 146Anapai Bay 165Anapai Bay Track 165Anchorage 164Anchorstone/Te Puka 296

Angelus Basin 179animals 314-17, see also birdsAntimony Mine Track 144Aoraki/Mt Cook 210, 41Aoraki/Mt Cook National

Park 209-14, 41environment 209-10history 209maps 210planning 210travel seasons 210

Aotea Track 70-6, 72-3accommodation 73history 71maps 72packing 71-2planning 71-3travel seasons 71travel to/from 73

Ardern, Jacinda 300, 311area codes 322Armstrong Saddle 126Around the Mountain Circuit

115-18Arthur’s Pass 217Arthur’s Pass National Park

198-208environment 199history 198-9maps 200packing 199planning 199-200travel seasons 199

ATMs 324Auckland 85-6Avalanche Peak 200-2, 201

maps 200planning 200travel to/from 200

avalanches 45Awaroa Bay 164-5

Bbackpacks 48Banks Track 191-4, 192

accommodation 192environment 191-2

history 191maps 192packing 192planning 192travel seasons 192travel to/from 192

Bark Bay 164bays

Anapai Bay 165Brod Bay 286Camp Bay 144Davies Bay 146Fletcher Bay 78Goat Bay 165Horseshoe Bay 296Islington Bay 70Kaipipi Bay 297Lee Bay 296Mistletoe Bay 146Oke Bay 65Pandora Bay 62Poley Bay 78Resolution Bay 143Sandy Bay

(Otangawhiti) 62Sawdust Bay 297Spirits Bay 63Stony Bay 193Tapotupotu Bay 61-3Torrent Bay 164Waiharakeke Bay 165Whariwharangi Bay 166

B&Bs 335beaches 18

Anchorage Beach 163Big Bush Beach 152Big Rock Beach 171Blowholes Beach 293Heaphy Beach 171Koura Beach 171Magnetic Beach 296Maori Beach 296Nettle Beach 171Ninety Mile Beach 61Onetahuti Beach 164-5Scotts Beach 171-2

Te Horo Beach 63Te Werahi Beach 61-2Twenty Minute Beach 171Twilight Beach 61-2Twin Beach 171

Bealey Spur 207-8, 208accommodation 207maps 207packing 207planning 207travel to/from 207

Beer’s Pool 287bellbird see korimakoBellbird Walk 181Ben Lomond 260-2, 261

planning 261travel to/from 261

Ben Lomond Saddle 262bicycle trave, see cycling,

mountain bikingBillygoat Basin 82Billygoat Track 82birds 34-36, 314-17, 34-7,

see also individual birdsbellbird, See korimakoblue duck, See whiofalcon, See kareareafantail, See piwakawakagrey warbler, See rirorirokiwis 316miromiro 36, 36morepork, See ruruNew Zealand pigeon,

See kererupiwakawaka 34, 34pukeko 34, 34rifleman, See tititi

pounamusilvereye, See tauhoutauhou 34, 34tomtit, See miromirowoodhen, See weka

bird-watching 28, 34-7, see also individual species

blue duck see whioBlue Lake 183

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Blue Pools Walk 259boat travel 328, 329Bobs Ridge 117booking services 338books 111, 139, 157, 271, 300

cycling 30nature 312, 318

Boomerang Slip 119budgeting 336bungy jumping 30, 239Buntings Bush Gully 153Buried Forest 152Bus Stop Shelter 278bus travel 330business hours 325

Ccamping 335-7campsites 337

Anapai Bay Campsite 165

Appletree Bay Campsite 163

Bay of Many Coves Campsite 145

Black Rock Campsite 145Camp Bay Campsite 144Cowshed Bay Campsite

145Green Campsite 75-6Korokoro Campsite 105Maraunui Campsite 105-6Onetahuti Bay

Campsite 165Pandora Campsite 62Pelorus Bridge

Campground 149Schoolhouse Bay

Campsite 143Scotts Beach

Campsite 171Tapuaenui Campsite 106Te Pukatea Bay

Campsite 164Tonga Quarry Campsite

164Torrent Bay Village

Campsite 164Totaranui Campsite 165Twilight Campsite 61Watering Cove

Campsite 164Whariwharangi

Campsite 166Young Forks Campsite

259

Cannibal Gorge 196canoeing 33Canterbury, Arthur’s Pass &

Aoraki/Mt Cook (region) 53, 188-217, 190

books 189climate 188gateway towns 189internet resources 189travel seasons 188visitor information

centres 189canyoning 164Cape Brett 65-6Cape Brett Track 63-6, 64

accommodation 64history 64maps 64packing 64planning 64-5travel seasons 64travel to/from 65

Cape Maria van Diemen 61Cape Palliser 129-31, 2Cape Palliser Lighthouse

111, 130, 2Cape Reinga 62Caples Track 248car travel 331Cascade Saddle 253-6,

254accommodation 253-4guided walks 254maps 253planning 253-4safety 255travel seasons 253travel to/from 254

Cascade Track 180Cass-Lagoon Saddles

Track 209Cattle Flat 252caves

Fox River Caves 229Luxmore Caves 286

caving 31cell phones 14Central Crater 97children, travel with 320Chinamans Flat 253Christchurch 214-15cinema 300Cleopatra’s Pool 164climate 14, 40, 42, 320-1,

see also individual regions

climbing 16Clinton Forks 278clothing 47-8

Coast to Coast 199communication 45Conical Hill 245Cook, Captain James 113,

159, 191, 273, 290, 293, 305

Copland River Gorge 232Coromandel Walkway

76-8, 77accommodation 77-8environment 76-7history 76maps 77planning 77-8travel seasons 77travel to/from 78

costs 15Crayfish Point 171credit cards 324creeks

Architect Creek 232Blue Duck Creek 170Breakneck Creek 293Bullock Creek 228Captain Creek 149Cascade Creek 255Chair Creek 282Coal Creek 286Coffins Creek 75Cupola Creek 182Deception Creek 170Dilemma Creek 228Eel Creek 281Flat Creek 291Fossil Creek 228Gorge Creek 169, 203Hidden Falls Creek 281Hokuri Creek 283Homer Creek 281Hopeless Creek 182Lyell Creek 223Murray Creek 171Open Creek 232Palaver Creek 232Pfeifer Creek 205Ploughman’s Creek 152Pompolona Creek 278Potters Creek 245Rainbow Creek 281Roaring Creek 245Roebuck Creek 150Rough Creek 232Scott Creek 232Sheep Creek 169Slip Creek 249, 283Snowy Creek 252Speargrass Creek 184Stag Creek 259Steele Creek 249

Swamp Creek 281Tekano Creek 232Twenty Five Mile Creek

251Webb Creek 81Wekakura Creek 171

Crown Battery 84culture 300-1currency 14, 324customs regulations 322cycling 329, see

also mountain biking

DDancing Camp Dam 81dangers, see safetyDarkies Ridge 62day hikes 66-7Deadman’s Track 245debit cards 324-5Deep Water Cove 65Demon Trail 283Diamond Lake & Rocky

Mountain 264-6, 265environment 264history 264maps 264planning 264travel seasons 264travel to/from 264

Dieffenbach Cliffs 119Dilemma Gorge 228dolphin watching 316-17Donnelly Flat 129Dredge Flat 253drinks 322-3driving, see car travelDry Rock Shelter 174DVDs 323

EEagle’s Roost Shelter 193earthquakes 153, 301, 313Eatwells Lookout 145Edwin Burn Viaduct 292Eftpos 324Egmont National Park

113-23accommodation 114environment 113-14guided tramps 114history 113maps 114planning 114travel seasons 114travel to/from 115

electricity 321, 323Emerald Pool 149

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

343IN

DEX E–

H emergencies 44, 45, 322Endeavour Inlet 143environment 312-18

Great Barrier Island 74environmental issues 315equipment 38, 39-40,

48-51, 50etiquette 313exchange rates 15

Ffalcon, see kareareaFalls River Track 164fantail, see piwakawakafarmstays 336fauna 314-18film 300film locations

Hobbit, the 93, 149Last Samurai, the 113Lord of the Rings trilogy,

the 93, 130, 241Fiordland National Park

273-93environment 274history 273-4planning 274

Fiordland & Stewart Island/Rakiura (region) 54, 270-98, 272

books 271climate 270DOC visitor centres 271gateway towns 271internet resources 271travel seasons 270

first aid 46fishing 29, 250Flanagan’s Corner 169Flea Bay Cottage 193flora 314-18Flora Saddle 173Foliage Hill 212food 51, 322-3footwear 48Forest Burn Saddle 286Fox Glacier 236Franz Josef Glacier 237Freda’s Rock 213

Ggaiters 48gay travellers 323Gentle Annie Hill 279Gertrude Saddle 287-9, 288

huts 288maps 288planning 288

travel seasons 288travel to/from 289

geysers 318Gibbs Hill Track 166Gibbstown 223Gillespie Pass Circuit

257-60, 258accommodation 258guided tramps 258maps 258planning 258travel seasons 258travel to/from 258-9

glaciers 16Dart Glacier 252Fox Glacier 236Franz Josef Glacier 237

Glasgow Bridge 200Glenorchy 269Goat Pass 203Goat Pass Track 202-4, 201

accommodation 202-3maps 202planning 202-3travel to/from 203

Gouland Downs 169Graylings Clearing 121-2Great Barrier Island 74Great Walks, the 8-13, 119

Abel Tasman Coast Track 9, 160-6, 161, 9

Heaphy Track 11, 167-72, 168-9, 170, 11

Kepler Track 11, 284-7, 285, 11, 41

Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk 10, 103-6, 104-5, 3

Milford Track 12, 274-9, 276-7, 276-7, 12

Paparoa Track 13, 225, 13Rakiura Track 12, 294-7,

295, 13Routeburn Track 12,

242-6, 243, 8Tongariro Northern

Circuit 9, 98-101, 99, 9Whanganui Journey 10,

120, 10Greenstone Caples Track

246-50, 247accommodation 246-7guided tramps 247maps 246planning 246-7safety 248 travel seasons 246travel to/from 247

Greenstone Flats 249

Greenstone Gorge 249Greenstone Track 248Greymouth 234-5grey warbler, see riroriroGridiron Gulch 174Gridiron Shelter 174Growler Shelter 174guided tramps

Abel Tasman Coast Track 163

Cascade Saddle 254Coromandel Walkway 77Egmont National Park 114Gillespie Pass Circuit

258Greenstone Caples

Track 247Heaphy Track 168Hollyford Track 281Hump Ridge Track 291Lake Waikaremoana

Great Walk 103-4Milford Track 275Rob Roy Track 256Routeburn Track 243-4Tableland Circuit 172Tongariro National

Park 95

HHanmer Springs 216-17Harper Pass 204-7, 205,

206-7accommodation 204maps 204planning 204travel to/from 204

Hauraki Rail Trail 85Hawkswood Range 153health 323Heaphy River Bridge 171Heaphy Track 11, 167-72,

168-9, 170, 11accommodation 167-8guided tramps 168maps 167mountain biking 171packing 167planning 167-8travel to/from 168

Heartbreak Hill 287heatstroke 42-3Herangi Hill 61Hillary, Sir Edmund 212Hinewai Reserve 194history 18, 302-11

20th century 309-10connections to Britain

306-11

European settlement 304-6

Land Wars 306-8Māori settlement 302-3Musket Wars 306websites 302, 308

hitching 333holiday parks 335-6holidays 325Hollyford Track 279-84,

282, 283accommodation 280guided tramps 281maps 280packing 280planning 280-1travel seasons 280travel to/from 281

Honeydew Walk 181Hooker Valley Track 212-14,

213, 17maps 213planning 213travel to/from 213

Hope Shelter 206Hopuruahine Landing 106horse trekking 29Horseshoe Basin 174hostels 336hot springs

Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools 216

Hurunui Hot Springs 206Kaitoke Hot Springs

73-4, 75Ketetahi Hot Springs 98Ohinepango Springs 101Welcome Flat Thermal

Springs 232hotels 336-8housing crisis 301Hump Ridge Track 289-93,

290accommodation 291guided tramps 291history 289-90maps 291packing 291planning 291travel seasons 291travel to/from 291

Hut Spur 208huts 15, 337, 338 2

Ada Pass Hut 196Anchorage Hut 163Angelus Hut 179Anne Hut 197Architect Creek Hut 232Arthurs Creek Hut 251

344

IND

EX H–

L

huts continuedAspiring Hut 255Atiwhakatu Hut 129Awaroa Hut 165Bark Bay Hut 164Bealey Spur Hut 208Beech Hut 279Blue Lake Hut 183Boyle Flat Hut 198Browning Hut 150Camerons Hut 205Cannibal Gorge Hut 196Cape Brett Hut 66Captains Creek Hut 149Christopher (Ada)

Cullers Hut 197Christopher Hut 197Clinton Hut 278Coldwater Hut 180, 182Daleys Flat Hut 253Dart Hut 252Demon Trail Hut 282,

283Douglas Rock Hut 232-3Dumpling Hut 279Flora Hut 174Ghost Lake Hut 223Goat Creek Hut 224Goat Pass Hut 203Gouland Downs Hut 169Greenstone Hut 249Hacket Hut 151Harper Pass Bivouac 205Heaphy Hut 171Hidden Falls Hut 281Hokuri Hut 283Holly Hut 119Homer Hut 289Hurunui Hut 206Hurunui No 3 Hut 205Iris Burn Hut 287James Mackay Hut 170John Tait Hut 182Jumbo Hut 129Kahui Hut 115Kaiaraara Hut 75Kerin Forks Hut 260Kiwi Hut 205Lake Alabaster Hut 282Lake Dive Hut 117Lake Howden Hut 246,

248Lakehead Hut 182Lake Mackenzie Hut 245

Lewis Hut 170Liverpool Hut 255Locke Stream Hut 205Luxmore Hut 286Lyell Saddle Hut 223Maketawa Hut 118Mangatepopo Hut

97, 100Marauiti Hut 106Martins Bay Hut 284McKellar Hut 248McKerrow Island Hut 282Mid Caples Hut 248Mid Greenstone Hut 249Middy Creek Hut 149Mingha Bivouac 203Mintaro Hut 278Mokihinui Forks Hut 224Moturau Hut 287Mt Arthur Hut 173Mt Heale Hut 74Mueller Hut 212North Arm Hut 296Old Shelter Rock Hut 252Old Waihohonu Hut 101Oturere Hut 100, 2Panekire Hut 105Perry Saddle Hut 169Pinnacles Hut 81, 82Port William Hut 296Pouakai Hut 120Powell Hut 129Rat’s Nest Hut 249Rocks Hut 150Roebuck Hut 150Rokeby Hut 198Routeburn Falls Hut 245Routeburn Flats Hut 244Sabine Hut 184Saxon Hut 169Shallow Bay Hut 287Shelter Rock Hut 252Siberia Hut 260Speargrass Hut 184Specimen Point Hut 224Stern Valley Hut 224Sunrise Hut 126Syme Hut 118Upper Caples Hut 248Upper Deception Hut 203Upper Gridiron Hut 174Upper Travers Hut 182Waiaua Gorge Hut 115Waiharuru Hut 106Waihohonu Hut 101Waingongoro Hut 118Waiopaoa Hut 105Wehi Wehi Hut 65

Welcome Flat Hut 232West Sabine Hut 183Whanganui Hut 106Whariwharangi Hut 166Young Hut 259

Hydrocamp 81hypothermia 42

Iimmigration 327injuries 46Inland Pack Track 226-9,

227accommodation 227maps 227packing 227planning 227travel seasons 227, 228travel to/from 227-8

insurance 323internet access 323internet cafes 324internet resources 312Invercargill 298itineraries 19-22, 19, 20,

21, 22Iwituaroa Reserve 146

JJamestown 283jetboating 33, 292, 3

KKahurangi National Park

166-74environment 166-7history 166planning 167travel seasons 167

Kaiauai Shelter 121Kaikoura 155Kaikoura Coast Track

151-3, 152accommodation 152environment 151history 151maps 152packing 152planning 151-2travel seasons 151travel to/from 152

Kaitaia 87Kapowairua 62-3Karamea 187Karangahake Gorge

82-5, 83history 84maps 84

packing 84planning 84travel seasons 84travel to/from 84Karearea 36, 124, 151,

175, 210, 224, 264, 36Katipo Shelter 171Kauaeranga Gorge 82Kauaeranga Kauri Trail

78-82, 80-1accommodation 79-80maps 79planning 79-80travel seasons 79travel to/from 80

kauri 74, 79kayaking 33, 162Kea Point 212Kenepuru Saddle 145Kepler Track 11, 284-7, 285,

285, 11, 41accommodation 284-5maps 284packing 284planning 284-5travel seasons 284

kereru 34, 77, 124, 191, 226, 274

Kidney Fern Arm 297kiwis 16, 28, 34, 77, 127,

167, 175-6, 219, 221, 226, 230, 293, 294, 314, 316, 35

Kiwi Valley 206korimako 34, 77, 124, 141,

151, 159, 175, 181, 191, 199, 226, 242, 264, 314,

LLake Angelus Track 179-80Lake Waikaremoana 10, 10Lake Waikaremoana Great

Walk 103-6, 104-5accommodation 103guided tramps 103-4maps 103planning 103-4travel seasons 103travel to/from 104

Lakehead Track 182lakes

Black Lake 289Blue Lake 97Crucible Lake 260Diamond Lake 264Emerald Lakes 97Hidden Lake 278Hooker Lake 214Lake Ada 279

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

345IN

DEX L–

P Lake Alabaster 282Lake Angelus 179-80, 184Lake Cheerful 224Lake Grim 224Lake Harris 245Lake Howden 246, 248Lake Mackenzie 245Lake Matheson 236Lake Mavis 203Lake McKellar 248Lake McKerrow 282Lake Rere 249Lake Rotoiti 180, 182Lake Rotoroa 184Lake Sumner 206Lake Waikaremoana

10, 10Prairie Lake 278Tama Lakes 98, 101

landslides 230languages 14legal matters 324lenticular clouds 40, 41LGBT travellers 324lighthouses

Cape Brett Lighthouse 66literature 300Little Homer Saddle 281lizards 317lodges

Awaroa Lodge 165Furneaux Lodge 143-4Hope Kiwi Lodge 206Lochmara Lodge 145Mahana Lodge 144Okaka Lodge 292Port Craig Lodge 292Salisbury Lodge 174

Long Trestle Bridge 82loop hikes 18Loop Track 181Lord of the Rings film

locations 93, 130, 241Lyell Cemetery 223Lyell Range 223

MMackay Downs 170Mackinnon Pass 279Manganui Gorge 118Mangatepopo Valley 100Māori people

history 302-3Maori tribes

Ngāti Apa 124Ngāti Kahungungu 124Ngati Tuwharetoa 93, 94Tainui 67

maps 39-40, 324Marahau 163-4Masterton 135-6Maungapiko Lookout 75McKellar Saddle 248McKerrow Island 282measures 323Medina 153Medina Conservation Area

152-3Meretoto/Ship Cove 143Milford Track 12, 274-9,

276-7, 12accomodation 275guided tramps 275maps 275packing 275planning 275travel seasons 275travel to/from 277

miromiro 36, 36mobile phones 14Mokihinui Forest 224Mokihinui Gorge 224money 14, 324-5money changers 325morepork, see ruruMoriori 303motels 336-8motorcycle travel 330-3Motuara Island 143Motueka 185-6mountain biking 18,

29-30, 78, 144, 171, see also cycling

mountain passes 17Mountain Safety

Council 42mountaineering 30mountains

Aoraki/Mt Cook 210Avalanche Peak 202Dome 115Dun Mountain 150Fanthams Peak 118Flagtop 179Gordons Pyramid 174Henry Peak 121Hirakimata (Mt Hobson)

74Hump 120Julius Summit 179Jumbo 129Lizard 123Maude Peak 120Mt Angelus 180Mt Arthur 172, 174Mt Holdsworth 129Mt Luxmore 286

Mt Montgomery 223Mt Ollivier 212Mt Travers 183Photographic Peak 121-6Pouakai 121Pukehuia 65Rocky Mountain 264-5Rocky Tor 223Skull Peak 153Tahurangi 119Te Paki 62Tirikawa Pa 62Wooded Peak 150

Mt Arthur Summit Track 174Mt Aspiring National Park

241-60, 50environment 241-2history 241

Mt Aspiring National Park & Around Queenstown (region) 54, 238-69, 240

books 239climate 238DOC visitor centres 239gateway towns 239internet resources 239travel seasons 238

Mt Cook Village 212, 217Mt Holdsworth-Jumbo

Circuit 127-9, 128accommodation 127-8maps 127packing 127planning 127-8travel seasons 127travel to/from 128

Mt Robert Circuit 179Mt Taranaki 116-17, 122, 5Mt Taranaki Summit 123

packing 123planning 123travel seasons 123

Mueller Hut Route 210-12, 211

accommodation 211-12maps 211packing 211planning 211-12

Mueller Hut Route Mutton Cove 165

NNapier 133-4National Park Village 108-9national parks 94, 318natural formations

Arch Point 164Ballroom Overhang 229

Bell Rock 279Dudley Knob 203Luncheon Rock 292Parachute Rocks 181Rocky Point 287

navigation 39-40, 45Nelson 184-5Nelson Lakes National Park

174-84, 176-7accommodation 178environment 175-8history 175maps 178packing 178planning 178travel seasons 178travel to/from 178

New Plymouth 132-3New Zealand pigeon, see

kererunewspapers 323Ngaroma Farm 152North Arm 296North Crater 97North West Circuit 294Northland, Auckland &

Coromandel (region) 52, 56-89, 58

books 57climate 56DOC visitor centres 57gateway towns 57highlights 57internet resources 57planning 56-7travel seasons 56

OOld Ghost Road 221-4, 222

accommodation 221-2history 221maps 221planning 221-2travel seasons 221travel to/from 222

Old Waihohonu Hut 101Onahau Lookout 146Onepoto 104-5opening hours 325Orchard 245Oreville Stamping

Battery 75Oturere Hut 100, 2

Ppacking 47, 49Palmerston North 134-5Panekiri Bluff 105

346

IND

EX P–

S

Paparoa National Park 224-9

environment 226history 225-6planning 226

Paparoa Track 13, 225, 13Paradise Farm 193passport 327Patekaha Island 106Paterson Inlet 296Peak 1538 249Pelorus Bridge Scenic

Reserve 149Pelorus Track 146-51, 147

accommodation 148environment 148history 148maps 148planning 148travel seasons 148travel to/from 148-9

Percy Burn Viaduct 292Peters Point 296Phils Knob 196Phoenix Bluff 244Picton 154-5Pinnacles 81-2, 131piwakawaka 34, 124, 181,

199, 226, 242, 264, 257, 274, 314, 34

planning 23-7budgeting 15clothing 47-8equipment 38, 39-40,

48-51food 51internet resources 15itineraries 19-22New Zealand basics

14-15New Zealand’s regions

52-4safety 38-46travel seasons 14weather 14

politics 300-1population 301Portage 145-6postal services 325Pouakai 120Pouakai Circuit 118-21Pouakai Crossing 121-2Pouakai Tarns 121public holidays 325pubs 336-8

pukeko 34, 314, 34Pukenui Trig 105Punakaiki 235-6Punakaiki River Track 229Putangirua Pinnacles 130-1

accommodation 130maps 130packing 130planning 130travel seasons 130travel to/from 130

QQueen Charlotte &

Marlborough (region) 53, 138-55

books 139climate 138environment 141gateway towns 139history 141internet resources 139travel seaons 138visitor information

centres 139Queen Charlotte Track

141-6, 142-3accommodation 142maps 142mountain biking 144packing 142planning 142-3travel seasons 142travel to/from 143

Queenstown 260, 266-7Quinns Flat 253

Rradio 323Raingauge Spur 129Rakiura Track 12, 294-7,

295, 13accommodation 295maps 295packing 295planning 294-6travel seasons 294travel to/from 296

Rangitoto Island Loop 66-70, 68-9

accommodation 69environment 68-9history 67-8maps 69packing 69planning 69travel seasons 69travel to/from 69

Rawhiti 65-6Red Crater 97Rees Saddle 252Rees-Dart Track 250-3, 251

accommodation 250maps 250planning 250-1travel seasons 250travel to/from 251

rental accommodation 338rescue 44resorts

Endeavour Resort 144Portage Resort Hotel 145Punga Cove Resort 144Te Mahia Bay Resort 146

ride-sharing 333rifleman, see tititipounamuriroriro 34, 124, 127, 151,

199, 226, 264river crossings 43-4rivers 17-18

Anne River 197Bealey River 203Boyle River 197, 207Clinton River 278Copland River 232Dart River 252Deception River 203East Branch Sabine

River 183Falls River 164Forest Burn 287Fox River 228Greenstone River 248,

249Gunner River 171Heaphy River 170Henry River 197Hollyford River 281Hooker River 213Hope River 206Hurunui River 205Iris Burn 286Karangarua River 232Kauaeranga River 81Kohaihai River 172Makarora River 259, 260Matukituki River West

Branch 255Mingha River 203Ohinemuri River 84Otehake River 205Otira River 204Pelorus River 149Pororari River 228Pyke River 281-2Rees River 251, 252Roaring Burn 279

Route Burn 244Saxon River 170Stony River 115Taramakau River 205Travers River 180, 182Waimakariri River 208Waipawa River 126Waitawheta River 84Waiwhakaiho River 121West Branch Sabine

River 183Wilkin River 260Young River 259

Rob Roy Track 256-7, 257accommodation 256guided tramps 256maps 256planning 256travel seasons 256travel to/from 256

Robert Ridge 179, 180, 184rock climbing 30-1, 31Routeburn Classic 244Routeburn Gorge 244Routeburn Track 12, 242-6,

243, 12accommodation 243guided tramps 243-4maps 242planning 242-4travel seasons 242travel to/from 244

Roys Peak 262-3, 263 maps 262

travel seasons 262travel to/from 262-3

Ruahine Forest Park 123-6climate 124environment 124history 124

rugby 301ruru 36, 242, 37Russell 87-8

Ssafety 38-46, 95, 180,

325, 333Mt Taranaki 114

Sand Hill Point Viaduct 292Scott Point 61Scotts Track 202scuba diving 31sea kayaking 29Seal Cove 193seals 284, 17Sealy Tarns Track 212Seatonville 224Separation Point 165

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

347IN

DEX S

–W

short walks 66-7Siberia Stream Flats 259Silica Rapids 98silvereye, see tauhouskiing 32Skyline Ridge 223Skyline Route 98sleeping bags & mats

49-50smoking 323snorkelling 31snowboarding 32, 32Soda Springs 97Sooty Shearwater

Conservation Project 193

South Crater 97Southland Museum 317Speargrass Track 184St Arnaud Range Track

180-1St James Walkway 194-8,

195accommodation 196environment 194history 194maps 196packing 195planning 194-6travel seasons 194-5travel to/from 196

Stack Conservation Area 263

Stag Point 292Stern Valley 223Stewart Island/Rakiura

293-7environment 293-4history 293

stoves 50Stratford Plateau 118streams

Atiwhakatu Stream 128Bruce Stream 208Cedric Stream 184Fishtail Stream 149Gillespie Stream 259Hukere Stream 180Kiwiriki Stream 75Liverpool Stream 255McMillan Stream 206Siberia Stream 259Stocking Stream 214Stony Bay Stream 194Sugar Loaf Stream 244Te Paki Stream

(Kauaeparaoa) 61Three Mile Stream 206Waihohonu Stream 101

Suicide Slips 224sunburn 42-3Sunrise Track 124-6, 125

accommodation 125maps 125packing 125planning 125travel seasons 125travel to/from 125

surfing 32-3

TTableland Circuit 172-4, 173

accommodation 172guided tramps 172maps 172planning 172travel to/from 172

Takaka 186-7Talisman Battery 84Tama Saddle 101Taranaki & Southern North

Island (region) 52, 110-37, 112

books 111climate 110DOC visitor centres 111gateway towns 111internet resources 111travel seasons 110

Tararua Forest Park 126-9climate 127environment 127history 126-7

Tarawamaomao Point 61-2tauhou 34, 141, 314, 34Taupo 106-7Tawa Saddle 143taxes 323Te Anau 297-8Te Araroa 63Te Kopi 131Te Kotoreotaunoa Point 105Te Paki Coastal Track

59-63, 60accommodation 61environment 59history 59maps 61packing 59, 61planning 59, 61travel seasons 59travel to/from 61

Te Urewera 102-6accommodation 103environment 102-3history 102planning 103

Te Wairoa 312telephone services 326tents 50-1Thames 89Third House Shelter 150Tiki Trail 261time 14, 326tipping 325tititipounamu 34, 124, 175,

199, 226, 242, 258, 35toilets 326tomtit, see miromiroTonga Island Marine

Reserve 164Tonga Quarry 164Tongariro Alpine Crossing

95-8, 96accommodation 97packing 96planning 96-7travel seasons 96travel to/from 97

Tongariro National Park 93-101

environment 94guided tramps 95history 93-4maps 95packing 95planning 95travel seasons 95

Tongariro Northern Circuit 9, 98-101, 99, 9

accommodation 99-100planning 99-100travel to/from 100

Tongariro, Te Urewera & Central North Island (region) 52, 90-109, 92

books 91gateway towns 91information centres 91internet resources 91

Torea Saddle 145Totara Saddle 150Totaranui 165tourist information 326train travel 333-4transport 327-34travellers cheques 325travel to/from New Zealand

327-8travel within New Zealand

328-34Travers Valley 180Travers-Sabine Circuit 181-4Treaty of Waitangi 306trees 317-18Trig F 292

tuataras 317Turangi 107-8Tutakakahikura Scenic

Reserve 193TV 323Twilight-Te Werahi Loop

Track 62

UUlva Island/Te Wharawhara

294

Vvacations 325Victoria Battery 85visas 14, 322-4volcanoes 16, 312-13

Mt Ngauruhoe 93, 94, 95, 100

Mt Ruapehu 93, 98, 126

Mt Taranaki 113-14Mt Tongariro 94Pukekaikiore 100Pukeonake 100Rangitoto 67, 68

volunteering 326

WWaiaua Gorge 117Waimangu Volcanic

Valley 313Wainui 166Wairaumoana 105Wairoa 109Waitahora Lagoon 63Waitākere Ranges 71walking poles 51Wanaka 260-6, 267-9water 46waterfalls 18

Bells Falls 115, 119, 121Billygoat (Atuatumoe)

Falls 82Brides Veil Falls 255Cascade Falls 164Dawson Falls 117-18Devil’s Punchbowl Falls

202Dudleigh Falls 279Earland Falls 245Giant Gate Falls 279Hidden Falls 281Hirere Falls 278Iris Burn Waterfall 287Kauri Falls 75Korokoro Falls 105Little Homer Falls 281

348

IND

EX W

waterfalls continuedMackay Falls 279Owharoa Falls 85Routeburn Falls 245St Quintin Falls 278Sutherland Falls 279Taranaki Falls 98, 101Travers Falls 182Waitonga Falls 98

weather 40, 42, 320-1weights 323weka 34, 141, 143, 148, 173,

226, 34

Welcome Flat 230-3, 231accommodation 231maps 231planning 231safety 230travel seasons 231, 232travel to/from 231

Welcome Flat Wellington 136-7

West Coast (region) 53, 218-37 220

books 219climate 218DOC visitor centres 219

gateway towns 219internet resources 219travel seasons 218

West Coast Wildlife Centre 219

Westland Tai Poutini National Park 229-33, 43

environment 230history 229-30planning 230

Westport 233-4Whakapapa Village 100, 101Whakarewarewa Village 313

whale-watching 316-17Whanganui Journey 10,

120, 10Whangarei 88-9whio 36, 127, 148, 167, 202,

221, 224, 242, 278, 37white-water rafting 33wi-fi 324wildlife 16, 34-7, 314-17Wilkies Pools 118Wilsons Camp 255women travellers 326woodhen, see wekaWoodstock Battery 84

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

349N

OTES

350

NO

TES

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351

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

BeachGate

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541538th edition – Dec 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 269 1© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSAndrew BainAndrew prefers adventure to avarice and can usually be found walking when he should be working. His writing and photography feature in magazines and newspapers around the world, and his writing has won multiple awards, in-cluding Best Adventure Story and Best Australian Story (three times) from the Australian Society of Travel Writers. He was formerly commissioning editor of Lonely Planet’s outdoor adventure series of titles, and is the author of Head-

winds, the story of his 20,000-kilometre cycle journey around Australia, and Lonely Planet’s A Year of Adventures.

Jim DuFresneJim first came to New Zealand more than 20 years ago in search of high peaks and wild places. He found both, along with some fine trout fishing, and has been returning ever since with his backpack and fly rod in hand. Jim began his writing career as the sports and outdoors editor of the Juneau Empire and was the first Alaskan sportswriter to win a national award from Associated Press. Today he lives in Michigan and feeds his appetite for the alpine world with frequent trips

to Alaska and New Zealand, having authored Lonely Planet’s Alaska, Hiking in Alaska and previous editions of this guidebook.

Contributing WritersBrett Atkinson Brett is based in Auckland, New Zealand, but is frequently on the road for Lonely Planet. He’s a full-time travel and food writer, specialising in adventure travel, unusual destinations and surprising angles on more well known destinations.Peter Dragicevic Over the last decade Peter has written dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He calls Auckland, New Zealand his home.Samantha Forge Samantha became hooked on travel at the age of 17, when she arrived in London with an overstuffed backpack and a copy of Lonely Planet’s Europe on a Shoestring. After a stint in Paris, she moved back to Australia and now works as a freelance writer and editor.Anita Isalska After several merry years as a staff writer and editor – a few of them in Lonely Plan-et’s London office – Anita now works freelance between Australia, the UK and any Alpine chalet with good wi-fi.Sofia Levin Sofia is a Melbourne-based journalist with an insatiable appetite for food and travel. A regular contributor to Lonely Planet, Sofia also runs Word Salad – a social media and copywriting business, plus has an Insta-famous toy poodle, @lifeofjinkee.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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