Holiday Highlights

The Pantanal

25 August – 8 September 2018

Guides: Roy Atkins and Lucas Marti

Guests: Christine & John Shawyer, Margaret & Jeremy Roberts, Sandra Peel, Marge Wood

and Sarah Sharland

Day 1: After our flight to São Paulo we have plenty of time to get through security and

passport control for our second flight to Cuiabá - and a good job too as we feel

like we have to walk miles! We are surprised to find Lucas, our local guide,

at check-in and also pleased to meet up with Sarah who flew out earlier than the

rest of us. We arrive in Cuiabá and spot Buff-necked Ibis on the grass by the

runway as we taxi to our stand. We are met by Milson, our driver, and our

Brazilian ‘passport’ guide - a legal requirement here - called Valdir.

We head straight to our lunch spot, a very nice restaurant with a fabulous buffet

and waiters coming round with meat on swords from which they will cut slices for

you! After lunch we make a brief stop to pick up supplies then get on our way

heading straight out to our first lodge out in the Cercado. Occasional Black and

Turkey Vultures are spotted as we drive but little else and after some time the

scenery starts to get more interesting with rocky cliffs, pinnacles, towers and

buttresses of sandstone above the trees. We make a very brief stop to check

a macaw nest site but no birds seem to be around today so we carry on.

We check in on arrival and have a little while to settle into our rooms before

meeting up again at 3:30pm for a wander in the grounds. This proves extremely

fruitful with loads of birds. Sayaca and Palm Tanagers, Rufous Hornero and lots

of Chopi Blackbirds making a lot of noise, White-lined Tanager, Chalk-browed

Mockingbird, Kiskadee and Saffron Finch all in just a few minutes - it is hard

to know where to look! We walk down and across the field a short way and spot

Swallow Tanagers in the bushes, beautiful birds all blue and green. Black-faced

Tanagers also appear and then Roy picks up a Burnished-buff Tanager, a nice find.

Our first hummingbird is a Glittering-throated Emerald and then we find Purplish

Jays and a superb Green-barred Woodpecker. A group of four Chestnut-eared

Araçaris fly into an open tree and perform wonderfully for us - what fabulous

birds they are. Blue-headed Parrots fly over calling as do a few Picazuro Pigeons.

We decide to walk down the road a little way and, as we head over, we add

several more new birds before we even get there. Pale-breasted and Rufous-

bellied Thrushes are in a big tree, we get great views of Variable Oriole, Rusty-

margined Flycatchers, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Blue Dacnis, Boat-billed Flycatcher

and Christine spots a Masked Tityra.

Walking down the road we get a lovely chance to compare Creamy-bellied and

pale Breasted Thrushes side by side, and at last one of the Blue-headed Parrots

decides to land! It is joined by a couple more and they look great through the

scope, the heads now very easy to see as blue. A little further down the road

we add Black-throated Saltator, then find more Black-faced Tanagers when

suddenly a Red-winged Tinamou erupts from the field beside us and flies across

the road and away - a fabulous find!! A Narrow-billed Woodcreeper climbs

a tree just in front of us then at the far end of the walk we find a family of Yellow-

tufted Woodpeckers. They respond well to a little of the call and come into the

trees very close by - superb!

After a break we gather for our evening meal at 7:00pm but are soon distracted

from our food when both Pauraque and a pair of Crab-eating Foxes appear

on the lawn. They look superb in Lucas’s torch and don’t seem the least

bothered by the light. Shortly a Little Nightjar appears on the patio and we enjoy

very close views without the bird seeming bothered at all. Our meal is delicious

then we go through the checklist before wishing everyone a goodnight - we are

very ready for bed after a long day and it is only 8:30pm!

Day 2: We have an early breakfast at 5:30am - but since we were in bed last night before

9:00pm we have enjoyed plenty of sleep so everyone seems in good spirits and

excited about the coming day. As we eat, two Brazilian Caveys appear on the

lawn, lovely little brown guinea-pigs! Chopi Blackbirds are even coming into the

dining area and picking up crumbs.

We get on our way wanting to make the most of the early morning and

as we drive out of the grounds we spot a superb Plumbeous Kite on a bare tree

and pause for photos. We continue to the main road then take a track down

into the Cerado proper. It is not an attractive habitat, being rather scruffy bushes

and low trees and tangles of vegetation but it can be very good for birds with

some species only found here.

We get out when we spot masses of little birds all over the track that turn out

to be Plumbeous Seedeaters but we are soon distracted by Rusty-backed

Antwrens the other side of the track. They are very smart little birds and we get

good views, then we find Pale-breasted Spinetail as Picazuro Pigeons and White-

eyed Parakeets fly over. We find Black-throated Saltator and a brief Plain-crested

Elaenia then a pair of White-rumped Tanager appears on the other side of the

track calling noisily. We walk on and take a little track into the vegetation and

here we disturb a pair of Red-Pileated Finches and then get fantastic views

of Rufous-winged Antshrike when it responds to us playing a little of the call,

singing from bare branches very close by.

We drive a bit further down the road passing several Southern Rough-winged

Swallows, Southern Caracara, Southern Lapwings, American Kestrel and a pair

of Burrowing Owls, one on the fence and the other by their burrow. This one

looks almost orangey and we wonder if it is coloured by the dirt!

We make a stop at a spot where Lucas has seen a scarce bird called a Collared

Crescentchest in the past. We pause to check out a flycatcher that we identify

as Lesser Elaenia then get much better views of Southern Rough-winged Swallow

perched by the track. Another bird appears in the same tree, a big surprise as this

is a very scarce species here - Cinnamon Tanager. We play a little of the

Crescentchest call and get a very distant response. After a few minutes

we decide it is too far away and are about to give up when suddenly it sounds

a lot closer! We creep forwards quietly and suddenly Lucas is pointing excitedly

and there it is - and what a gorgeous little bird with pale supercilium, bars and

crescents on the chest, perched right out where we can see it. We are delighted

and enjoy superb views, also adding White-vented Violetear and a pair of close

Red-and Green Macaws - amazing that such an impressive bird as this is playing

second fiddle to the Collared Crescentchest.

We move on and disembark at the start of another track where we spot

a White-tailed Hawk. Black-faced Tanagers are flitting through as we arrive but

walking down the track it seems rather quiet. After a while we decide that this

is fairly pointless and start walking back, and as we return Roy spots a distant

White-eared Puffbird. We are delighted when it comes right over to us when

we play some of the recording - joined by a second bird. We get good views

of Shrike-like Tanager too and a beautiful Swallow-tailed Kite flies over. Back

at the bus we are just setting off when four White Woodpeckers fly through!

Driving back towards the road we scan the more open ground for Red-legged

Seriema but are surprised instead to discover four enormous Greater Rheas!!

One male is obviously feeling quite amorous and is spreading his wings out and

displaying to the nearby females and looks very impressive! A Roadside Hawk

is in one of the trees and a superb flock of Guira Cuckoos is on the fence posts

as we drive past.

We head to a track that leads downhill to a small stream and get out part way

down the track. As soon as we get out we hear a calling Channel-billed Toucan

and go in search. It is a little tricky to find but eventually we discover it high in the

trees and get some very nice views. We can also hear an Amazonian Motmot

but this one we just can’t locate. There are quite a few other birds here though

and we gradually make up a good list including Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Black-

fronted Nunbird, Piratic Flycatcher, Crested Becard, Squirrel Cuckoo, Red-eyed

Vireo and, a big surprise, a superb male Flame-crested Tanager. A Cracker

Butterfly is perched in typical head down manner on a tree trunk and a stunning

Blue Morpho Butterfly bounds past. A high-pitched squeak sounding very bird-like

turns out to be a family of Black-tailed Marmosets and we enjoy wonderful views

as they work their way through the trees - delightful animals.

From here we walk on down to a small stream and discover yet more birds

including Silver-beaked Tanager, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Moustached Wren,

Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, Small-billed Elaenia, Swallow Tanager and the tiny

woodpecker-like Streaked Xenops.

Time is running out for the morning so we get back on the bus and take a short

drive to a restaurant which has superb food and a nice atmosphere. Then from

here we head back to the lodge for a short break - except part way down the

track we get completely bogged down in the sand and, despite our best efforts

trying to clear the sand from in front of the tyre, in the end we have to get towed

out by a Land Rover from the lodge - which takes a bit of time, so we change our

plan for the afternoon and decide to stay local.

After a break for about an hour in the hottest part of the day we gather again

at 3:30pm for a walk down a trail that is said to be very good for manakins.

Before we even start the walk, we add a new bird in the form of a Little

Woodpecker, right by the lodge. There are other birds around the lodge too -

Southern Lapwing, Boat-billed Flycatcher, the Rufous Hornero are wandering

around the grass and we find Saffron Finches, Chalk-browed Mockingbirds and

other birds on our way to the trail.

Entering the trail, we find Bananaquit then some way down the slope we decide

to try playing the recording of Band-tailed Manakin. But before we even start -

there is one right in front of us!! What an absolutely stunning bird, so bright and

all red and yellow - just superb. After enjoying excellent views of this beauty,

we move on to try for Fiery-crowned Manakin - but sadly this one eludes us.

We hear a singing Flavescent Warbler however so we decide to try for that

instead and with success, getting some very good views beside the stream.

With little else happening we decide to drive to another spot and walk back

up to the lodge and drive a short distance to a small pool. Getting out of the bus

here we find loads of birds, though admittedly they are almost all White-lined and

Swallow Tanagers. We find a Black-crowned Tityra, get good views of Scaled

Pigeon and brief views of Black-throated Mango. On the pool we spot Least

Grebe and find a very smart Silver-beaked Tanager and an unidentified Swift flies

through.

We decide to try for another species of Jacamar but though we have no luck

we do instead find a tinamou feeding in the short grass beside the track. We are

astonished to see it has a longish red bill, and after some working on it we identify

it as Tataupa Tinamou, a great find. We also get fantastic views of White-bellied

Warbler, a delightful and very confiding little bird.

We drive back to the lodge and after a break meet up to run through the list and

then have our evening meal. Out on the lawn are more Pauraques but nothing

else. However, Roy goes to get something he accidentally left in the bus, and

to his astonishment there, perched on a small post, is a Scissor-tailed Nightjar,

a stunning bird with its beautiful long forked tail. He dashes to get everyone and

fortunately it is still there when we return and we enjoy fabulous views

of it as it flies round landing briefly now and then, at times twisting and turning

in flight and spreading that beautiful tail - a great end to the day.

Day 3: We enjoy breakfast at 6:00am this morning and, while we eat, a pair of Blue-

headed Parrots fly into one of the trees looking lovely in the sunshine. The

Guinea-pigs are back on the lawn and there are birds flitting around everywhere,

though nothing different. As we are heading back to the rooms a pair of Yellow-

chevroned Parakeets fly into one of the palms very close by - delightful little birds!

As we gather at the bus Roy is scanning around with his scope and locates three

new birds - Shining Cowbird, Streaked Flycatcher and Brown-chested Martin.

We don’t really want to leave - it is such a beautiful place and there seems

to be so many birds still to look at, but we drag ourselves away.

Heading towards the road a Grey Brocket Deer crossed the track in front

of us then Valdir spots a pair of Red-and-Green Macaws right by the road.

We stop and are delighted when they just stay put in the tree-top allowing

us to get out and take some wonderful photos. They look fantastic against the

blue sky and play a bit with each other then do some mutual preening. A third

bird nearby looks a bit left out.

We make a stop a bit further along the track to try and see manakins. We play

recordings and instantly a Helmeted Manakin flies in - it looks like a female but

could also be an immature male and given how beautiful we expect the male

to be it is slightly disappointing. We fair slightly better with a very brief Fiery-

capped Manakin, a stunning male, but he doesn’t stay. We carry on trying

as we seem be hearing them all around but though we find two more they are

both females. A superb Planalto Hermit appears however which is a nice find.

After hitting the main road we drive to a spot where we hope for Blue Finch but

have no luck, though we do glimpse Cliff Flycatcher here. Apart from this it is all

quiet though the view is impressive indeed. Then we drive a very short distance

to a spot with a similar view out over the plains below - but this time we are

at the Geodesic Centre of South America! There is an extremely unassuming

little concrete plaque on the ground to mark the spot and we are surprised they

don't make a bit more fuss about it! This is the spot where they say if you could

balance the whole of South America on a point its here it would balance.

We walk to the edge of the escarpment and spot a small bird flit into the grass.

Lucas goes in to flush it back up and it perches in the top of one of the bushes,

a rather lovely Wedge-tailed Grass-finch, much nicer looking than the name

suggests. As we watch this, a Crested Black Tyrant flies into to a bush below

us, followed by other and then a third with one appearing much closer and giving

us great views before we start walking back towards the bus. We pause to enjoy

the sight of a pair of Rufous-collared Sparrows and a beautiful Purple-throated

Euphonia and we find a Lesser Elaenia showing the pale stripe down the centre

of the crown, a feature not always easy to see.

Our next stop is a beautiful waterfall called “The Brides Veil” and nicely named

as the water falls in a thin veil of water that is see-through all the way down.

We park nearby and walk down through scrubby grassland looking out for birds

as we walk but just see a single Black-throated Saltator. The waterfall is at the

head of a gorge with sandstone escarpments and the view is superb. There are

Grey-breasted Martins, Southern Rough-winged Swallows and Blue-and-White

Swallows flying round and even better are the stunning views of Red-and-Green

Macaws flying below us showing their beautiful blue wings - they look fantastic

flying in this habitat and in front of the waterfall. A Cliff Flycatcher is sallying out

from the cliff now and then and we find a male Burnished-buff Tanager on the

rock face. A Fork-tailed Woodnymph flies in and perches for a few moments.

It is baking hot now and we decide to head up to the shop and enjoy an ice-

cream. Then sitting in the shade we chat for a little while before getting back

onto the bus and heading back towards Cuiabá. We don’t see much from the

main road as we drive until Milson, the driver, suddenly pulls into the side saying

there are two Red-legged Seriemas at the side of the road. We jump out and

walk back to a house where they have wandered into the garden and are in the

shade under a cashew tree - big birds and full of character. A little further

on we pass a flock of ten Greater Rheas hiding in the shade of a big tree like giant

Stone Curlews!

Then it is onwards to Cuiabá, where our first stop is the airport to pick up Sarah’s

bag! Woohoo - it is with great relief that we find it is there and we celebrate

by going for a slap-up lunch back at our favourite restaurant. Well fed we get

on the way towards the Pantanal. It is a fast road and we snooze as we go with

little we can do even if we spot something - until we arrive at a spot where

we want to try for one species - Streamer-tailed Flycatcher. It is hard not to get

drawn into looking at loads of other birds as there are Snail Kites, Limpkins,

Rufescent Tiger-Herons and lots more things but Lucas promises we will see

many more of these and we try to stay focussed. We play the call of the

flycatcher and after a few minutes hear a response from out in the marsh.

A careful scan and we find them on top of one of the bushes, first one, then

another, then two more and a fifth!! And wow what a superb bird it is - the book

does not do it justice as the tail is much longer in real life. They are beautiful and

gather together on one bush where they display raising their wings above their

backs and calling as a group. Then they fly, their incredible tail-streamers trailing

behind, to another bush where more display takes place. Then two birds head

over to the road side and we get much closer views before finally they move

on - what a wonderful treat.

Driving on the habitat is getting wetter and more exciting and we spot Snail Kites,

Savannah Hawks, various egrets, Limpkins, occasional kingfishers on the wires, and

even a Muscovy Duck on the water. At one spot we pause as a group

of Chestnut-bellied Guans and Bare-faced Curassows dash off from the side

of a small pool into the bushes.

Then as we enter the Pantanal proper we pause at the gate and check the pools

here. It is alive with birds including a massive flock of herons, egrets and storks.

First, right by the road in a couple of small pools, we notice Rufescent Tiger-

Heron, Grey-necked Wood Rail and Wattled Jacana. We find Savannah Hawk,

Black-collared Hawk, Snail Kite, Yellow-billed Cardinal and then a small group

of Campo Flickers, superb woodpeckers that fly across to the trees here and

we get fabulous scope views of them. We spot Orange-backed Troupial, wow -

what a colour, and then we finally turn our attention to the massive flock of birds

a little down the road. It is a superb scene like we have seen on TV but this is for

real - with hundreds of herons, egrets and storks all feeding together or standing

around looking like they are digesting their last meal. There are dainty Snow

Egrets, elegant Great Egrets, a lovely pink Roseate Spoonbill and then lots

of bigger Wood Storks. Normally, when you see Wood Storks, they look huge

in the company of the herons and egrets but today they are simply dwarfed

by the enormous Jabirus! And there are loads of them - truly enormous birds

with massive wedge-shaped bills and a very strange ballooned out neck.

It is an incredible sight. There are Limpkins, Snail Kites and a small group of Cattle

Egrets chasing a little group of goats and sheep that are walking through. There

are also a few baby Yacaré Caimans on the edge of the water.

We drive on a little way and pause to check out a White-rumped Monjita, then

at our next stop Buff-necked and Plumbeous Ibis and a fly over Bare-faced Ibis

and a White-backed Stilt is feeding beside one pool with more jacanas and egrets.

At our next stop there is even more. The stop here looks out at a series of pools

and we scan around adding more birds as well as enjoying species we have

already seen. We find White-winged Swallows, Large-billed Terns, Black Skimmer

and scanning the back edge of the lakes our first Capybara. Here we find Little

Blue and Cocoi Herons more Limpkins, Rufescent Tiger-Herons, Striated Heron

and Black-crowned Night Herons. One pair of Limpkins have a little fluffy chick!

We add Uniform Blackbird, Black-capped Donacobius, very close Cattle Tyrant,

Yellow-chinned Spinetail and a couple of people on horseback disturb a few birds

that fly over our heads including Black-bellied Whistling Ducks and surprisingly

some White-faced Ibis, a scarce species here. There are several more Roseate

Spoonbills and big flocks of Monk Parakeets.

We have to drag ourselves away. Time is running out and the light is starting

to fade, and we drive on as the sun is setting, creating a beautiful scene with trees

silhouetted against the pale sky and a mist rising below the trees. Bats emerge

and egrets are heading to roost while the occasional Night Heron is heading out

to feed. We are delighted when a family of two adult and four baby Capybaras

cross the road in front of us.

Finally we turn into the entrance road towards the lodge where we are staying

and we get out the torches to search for animals as we drive. The first find

is frustrating, it is a Tapir which should be very exciting but it is just the back end

vanishing into the bushes. There are occasional Pauraques but perhaps the nicest

find is a lovely close Crab-eating Fox. It is strange how they continue what they

are doing despite the torch light on them. We spot another later and also pick

out both Red and Grey Brocket Deer. The most bizarre find is a Sunbittern

in the middle of the track. Christine is particularly excited being her first and

a species she has missed in the past - but this is not how we expected to see one.

Strangely it starts walking towards the bus despite the bright headlights that must

surely be blinding it. Then, those at the front can see it is trying to catch the

insects buzzing around the lights - unbelievable! Our final find is a Great Horned

Owl but it has been a long day and we are ready to arrive, settle in, have some

food, run through the checklist and plans for tomorrow and hit the hay!!

Day 4: We gather at 5:45am for a walk in the grounds of the lodge where there seems

to be birds everywhere in the cool morning air, well - cool compared

to yesterday’s heat but even by 6:30am it is warming up a bit. There are so many

birds! We start with Bare-faced Curassow and Chestnut-bellied Guans while the

noisy Chaco Chachalacas are calling all around. We find Great Rufous

Woodcreeper surprisingly on the ground, then it is one bird after another and

hard to know where to look. Monk Parakeets, Turquoise-fronted Parrots, Red-

throated Piping Guans, Picazuro Pigeons, White-tipped Doves, Screaming

Cowbird, Little Woodpecker, Rufous-bellied Thrush and Thrush-like Wrens are

then followed by a fabulous Toco Toucan. What a fantastic bird!! The bill

is enormous and a rich yellow fading to red with a black spot near the tip.

Chestnut-eared Araçaris are spectacular too but nothing like as impressive.

We also get excellent views of Red-billed Scythebill, a strange bird for sure with

an incredibly long and thin curved bill.

We see a lot of movement in the trees and realise it is a troop of Guianan

Brown-tufted Capuchins, one of which comes right across to feed in the tree just

above our heads, sometimes peering down at us. We find a nice flock

of Baywings with a couple of Scaled Doves behind them and beside some horse

feeding troughs are a pair of Red-crested Cardinals, with Yellow-billed there too

making for a nice comparison. It is also useful to see Chopi Blackbird and both

Screaming and Shining Cowbirds together - three very similar species. Turquoise-

fronted Parrots perch in the trees along with a female Scarlet Flycatcher (now split

from Vermillion Flycatcher) then Roy finds a distant Crimson-crested

Woodpecker. We play a bit of call and it comes nearer providing a brief but

better view. All this and we have only been out for an hour!

We wander back for breakfast then meet up for our trip out in the open sided

vehicle. But first we have to get past the bird feeding area and this proves difficult

as it is heaving with birds. A big flock of Yellow-billed Cardinals is here making

quite a show, and in amongst them, Shining and Screaming Cowbirds, Chopi

Blackbirds, Purplish Jays, Crested Oropendola, Silver-beaked Tanager, Sayaca

Tanager, Toco Toucan, Chestnut-eared Araçari and more!

We finally get going and start driving slowly along the road stopping at some

of the small pools where there are birds. One of the first has two Capped

Herons, absolutely beautiful birds of a creamy colour with black plumes. Two

Peach-fronted Parakeets in the background are outnumbered by masses of Monk

Parakeets and some are involved in nesting, creating big communal nests with

many entrances. There is a Savannah Hawk and some very close Jabiru -

it is quite astonishing how tame these birds are. There are the usual Snowy and

Great Egrets, a Plumbeous Ibis then we pause to look at a big branch sticking

up in one of the trees. We are told it is a Great Potoo! It is an astonishing bird,

looking just like part of the tree but through the scope the camouflage and

delicacy of marking on the feathers is superb. Nearby a pair of Grey-crested

Cacholote are calling noisily.

At the next small pool we find Wattled Jacana, lots of Limpkins, Rufescent Tiger-

Heron and a Sunbittern, our first in daylight. After skulking along the far side

a little it suddenly takes flight and we get to see the superb marking in the wings.

Amazon Kingfishers fly through or hover over the pool and around the edge and

remarkably close to our feet are Yacaré Caiman by the score! There are amazing

numbers of them out on the banks or resting in the water. In one bush we find

a Common Tody Flycatcher then we coax out a Greater Thornbird which also

flies across to the same bush. There are Black-capped Donacobius, Yellow-

headed and Black Vultures overhead, a whole bush full of Limpkins perched all

over the top, Brown-chested Martins flying around us and White-winged

Swallows too.

The day is beginning to really heat up now and we drive along with a little more

breeze as a result of being in the open vehicle. At one spot we get great views

of Yellow-chevroned Parakeet, Southern Crested Caracara and a Green Ibis -

even the bill is green! Further on we find pair of Buff-necked Ibis, more

Sunbitterns and discover a pair of friendly Common Tegu Lizards - well they are

being friendly to each other anyway. Four Roseate Spoonbills fly over, we pick

up a circling Black-chested Hawk, find yet more Sunbitterns, then a Roadside

Hawk is perched in one of the trees. At one pool we find Lesser Kiskadee and

Rusty-margined Flycatcher which causes a little confusion at first with Roy looking

at the wrong bird and arguing that it is not what Lucas is suggesting! Eventually

both birds come together making for an excellent comparison. There is yet

another Sunbittern here - this one calling a very plaintive little call as it walks past.

As we drive back we get fabulous views of Savannah Hawk, a close Snail Kite and

Margaret spots a Muscovy Duck hiding in the shade. What an incredible morning

birdwatching it has been! It is about an hour before lunchtime but the heat

is such that we take a break and relax before lunch - though we do add another

bird just before lunch when Lucas discovers a Scaly-headed Parrot sat quietly

eating mangoes in the tree outside. It is so hot we decide to break until 3:30pm

and go back out then.

Heading back out along the entrance road the Muscovy Duck is now showing

much better on one of the first pools along with lots of Limpkins and ahead

of us are two Orange-backed Troupials in the trees. They seem to almost glow!

We find Glittering-throated Hummingbird then Roy picks out a group of Picui

Ground Doves, one bird feeding beside two Long-tailed Ground Doves. We get

our best views so far of Black-backed Water-Tyrant and spot our first Green

Kingfisher, Solitary Cacique, and a stunning male Scarlet Flycatcher that is so red

it is impossible!

We take a side road passing a nice family of Capybara then pause to admire

a Great Black Hawk. At the end of the track we park up so we can watch a large

pool where apparently tapirs sometimes come to drink. We settle down to wait

and enjoy good views of a Black-chested Hawk and a Ringed Kingfisher. After

a few minutes a Grey Brocket Deer appears and we watch as it comes down

to the water. There are several Chaco Chachalacas and Grey-breasted Wood

Rails wandering round the pool and then two Azara’s Agoutis appear at the far

side. Next a Red Brocket Deer walks out from the trees and we are pleased

to see the difference in colour. It is a wonderfully peaceful scene and we are

enjoying just sitting in the quiet and watching when suddenly Jeremy says, “It's

coming!” and sure enough there is a Brazilian Tapir appearing out of the bushes.

It is followed by a baby one, though quite well grown, it is noticeably smaller and

still has feint stripes along the sides and a pale face. Both have pale fringes to the

ears and they look fabulous! They wander down to the edge of the water where

they drink for quite a long time, lifting their heads occasionally and looking round.

Then after some time they start to wander along the far shore and then slowly

disappear into the trees - wow!! We are thrilled, it is still light and we never

expected a view like that in such good light.

After a little while we decide to move on and start driving and spotlighting to see

what else we can find. There are Pauraques of course including one on the road

which sits there until we almost run it over! Then we find Crab-eating Foxes, two

of them together and two Red Brocket Deer before we add more Crab-eating

Foxes. Roy picks out a distant Great Potoo with amazing eye-shine and we spot

Capybaras and hundreds of Caiman of course then on the return journey we add

Brazilian Rabbit. We find yet more foxes and deer and we assume that is about

it as we arrive back at the lodge but almost at the last moment a Brazilian Tapir

appears beside the track! We follow it and it seems amazingly unfazed by the

torchlight, wandering along a bit then crossing the track in front of us, and

we watch it head out across the grass. A very nice finish to the day indeed.

Day 5: We gather for breakfast at 5:45am and shortly after breakfast we get on our way.

Our boat ride, from another lodge, is at 8:00am but we give ourselves plenty

of time to get there in case we find anything en route. And what a good job!

After a short distance we find a Marsh Deer in one of the small pools. It is a big

deer, with long slim legs, dark at the base and a fine set of antlers too and the

Pantanal is one of the best places to see them as they are not common.

We drive on and suddenly Roy calls to stop as up ahead he has spotted

a Southern Tamandua! This is a wonderful animal, an arboreal anteater and

a lovely creamy colour with darker patches and it has obviously not read the book

as it on the ground walking round the edge of a small pool. We stop and watch

as it slowly works its way round towards us, pushing through the low vegetation

until at last it is very close and though often somewhat hidden we get some

fabulous views. Finally it crosses some open ground where we get unobscured

views before vanishes into the bushes - what a start!

There are many of the same birds as we drive but Great Antshrike is new

as is Rufous Casiornis and we have a superb chance to compare Blue and Red-

throated Piping Guans as there is one of each side by side on the track up ahead.

We can’t help laugh at Christine’s brilliant line, "And go over how to tell them

apart again!" We are astonished to suddenly spot an Undulated Tinamou drinking

right out in the open at one of the small pools of water - a very lucky sighting

indeed!

As we arrive at the lodge where we are taking our boat trip we spot a Crab-

eating Fox and two Hyacinth Macaws fly through, our best view so far though

we hope for better. In the grounds as we walk through there are dozens

of Yellow-billed Cardinals at the feeders and a couple of Nanday Parakeets, then

we pass Bare-faced Curassow and Chestnut-bellied Guans as we walk down

to the boat.

As we set off there are two Anhingas in the water then moments later Lucas

hears a calling Helmeted Manakin. We head over to where it is calling and try

playing a bit of the call and after a short while it appears in the top of one of the

bushes. It is quite mobile but eventually it perches out in the open long enough

to get everyone on it - and wow what a stunning bird! Black with a red crown

elongating out above the bill to a point, it is subtly spectacular - a species Roy has

wanted to catch up with since he started running this trip.

We move on and quickly find another new bird, a Rusty-backed Spinetail which

also takes a bit of time to show itself, then we slowly work our way downstream

spotting Ringed and Amazon Kingfishers one after another. Neotropic

Cormorants, Anhingas, various herons and egrets, Black-capped Donacobius and

a Yellow-headed Caracara are seen and we are puzzled by what appear

to be grey balls stuck to the exposed hanging tree roots at the side of the river.

Lucas explains they are a kind of sponge - so animal not vegetable - but they are

incredibly hard and spiky!

A Black-collared Hawk watches us from the trees and Lucas explains that our

boatman will throw a small fish for it and it should fly down and pick it from the

water. We try it and very quickly after the fish hits the surface the hawk takes off

and flies down, but misses! It flops back to the bushes then has another go and

this time it is successful grabbing the fish with both feet then lifting up again.

We spot our first Sungrebe though it disappears quickly into the Water Hyacinths

shortly followed by a second which does the same - a little frustrating! Then

we make a stop to look at roosting Boat-billed Herons. We find at least three

but only one is really visible and so distinctive with that big crab-eating bill.

We turn to head back and Roy spots another Sungrebe as we go, this one a bit

more obliging in that, though it does try to hide, when we arrive it takes flight and

lands again in full view at the other side of the river.

We head back and enjoy an ice-cream at the lodge, watching the birds on the

feeders. The cardinals, Nanday Parakeets, Saffron Finches and Baywings dominate

but we also see Shiny and Giant Cowbirds, the latter looking enormous

in comparison. We find a Fork-tailed Woodnymph and then as we drive back

we pass a Greater Rhea and pause to check out a Crimson-crested Woodpecker.

It is an incredibly hot drive back - like sitting in a hairdryer with hot air in your face

all the way yet there are still doves, guans, curassows, Roadside Hawks and other

birds noticeable as we go.

Back at base we enjoy lunch and a cold drink before taking a break until 3:30pm

when we meet up again and head back out along the entrance road. It is amazing

how many birds are in just the same place each time we go out, a pair of Jabiru

in one pond, Limpkins in another, White-winged Swallows the far end of another

pond and Green Ibis at another - and what we are now calling Margaret’s

Muscovy is always in the same place too! New however, is a Fork-tailed

Flycatcher well spotted by Jeremy as it flies past and lands in one of the trees,

a superb looking bird.

We drive on, pausing here and there to look at occasional birds but there seems

nothing new so we make a stop and get out for a walk when we reach a bit

of woodland. At first all seems quiet then we try playing Buff-throated

Woodcreeper and one flies straight across the road vanishing into the trees.

We try one for two other birds but while we are searching for one, Margaret

looks straight up above our heads and points out a bird apparently unconcerned

about the people down below - and to our amazement it is a Bat Falcon!! It stays

for ages while we enjoy good views then continue birding. Yet for a little while

it is more mammals than birds we see starting with a group of Capuchin Monkeys

crossing the road, then an Azara’s Agouti, shortly followed by a Southern Coati

and a Red Brocket Deer. A few moments later a troop of Black-tailed Marmosets

cross the road via the branches of overhanging trees - and wow, are they fast.

We hear a Blue-crowned Trogon calling and try playing a little of the call and

it appears in moments, perching where we can enjoy excellent views.

As we watch, a hummingbird appears and we identify it as Buff-bellied Hermit,

then Chestnut-eared Araçaris fly in and gradually work their way down to a pool

to drink and to our amazement two Undulated Tinamous walk across the road.

We get good views of a dust bathing Rufous-tailed Jacamar and then a pair

of Golden-naped Macaw fly over, calling raucously. We find White-lored Spinetail

and then hear a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl calling and whistle it in, soon getting

superb views of this tiny owl as it looks round fiercely. Then suddenly Margaret

points and there, just crossing the road is a Tapir!! We stand and stare

in astonishment and soon it is gone, vanishing into the bushes. Finally, a Crab-

eating Fox appears, walking towards us - seven species of mammals in such

a short space of time. To our amazement another three Undulated Tinamous

then cross the road - this is a species we usually don't see at all!

We drive now to the end of the road and then out into the main

Transpantaneira. We drive slowly along in the fading light and start using the

spotlights though it is still just about daylight and suddenly Lucas is shouting Giant

Anteater! He puts the light on the animal but it is already entering the trees and

seconds later it is gone. Very few people manage to see it sadly but it is great

to know they are around.

We drive some way and then turn and start coming back, Roy spotting three

Crab-eating Foxes, and Lucas picking out Red Brocket Deer then we are back

at the track and driving slowly back towards home. It seems quite quiet with just

more Crab-eating Foxes then we discover another vehicle clearly watching

something. We arrive to find out it is a mother and calf Brazilian Tapir, this one

bigger than yesterdays calf and with no stripes. They wander round in the mud

then get spooked and dash off into the trees.

A Crab-eating Fox crosses the path carrying something and peering through

binoculars we work out it is an Undulated Tinamou - hopefully not one of 'ours!'

It runs along parallel to the road carrying it for ages. We spot more Grey and

Red Brocket Deer, yet more foxes and the Brazilian Rabbit is in exactly the same

spot as yesterday. There are lots of Pauraques, and then as we approach the

lodge, the same Tapir as yesterday appears right on the track side again. We stop

and enjoy superb views before it wanders away. Amazingly, after our evening

meal and run through the checklist the owner comes to tell us that it is outside

and we go and have another look as it feeds quietly right by some of the rooms.

What a place!

Day 6: We gather before breakfast for a short walk and try to find some new birds -

aiming for a rail which sadly doesn’t seem interested in the tape. We enjoy lots

of other birds while we are looking though with lovely lighting on Snail Kite,

Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Limpkins and various birds out in the marshy area such

as Black-capped Donacobius and even the Smooth-billed Anis look good!

As we walk back towards the lodge three Scarlet-headed Blackbirds fly in looking

fabulous in the sun, as does a stunning Orange-backed Troupial. We watch

Turquoise-fronted Parrots perhaps raiding a big nest for twigs and also get good

views of Great Rufous Woodcreeper, Little Woodpecker, Green-banded

Woodpecker, Toco Toucan and a group of four Hyacinth Macaws though they fly

off as soon as we try and get a bit closer. There are Grey-crested Cacholotes

calling noisily, flocks of noisy Monk Parakeets, Baywings and lots of other now

familiar birds. As we get back for breakfast we find a superb Ferruginous Pygmy

Owl which is a much warmer coloured one than yesterdays and very close!

After breakfast we pay our bills, say farewell to the owner and get on our way.

We have not gone far when we stop again, we have information! There

is an enormous nest of a Great Horned Owl right by the road and though we can

only see the top of its head with the tall ears, by walking round to the other side

we can also see a baby one!!

We arrive at our lunch spot a little earlier than we need to for lunch so that

we can go for a walk along the trail but initially we are distracted by a Tufted

Capuchin that is very tame and even being hand fed by some of the people

staying here! There are Yellow-billed Cardinals, Shiny Cowbirds and other species

at the feeders but little else so we buy a cold drink then start our walk.

It is baking hot so it is a relief to get into the forested part of the walk, and here

we soon find our first birds with a super-tame Rufous-tailed Jacamar right at our

feet and even flying in between us chasing insects as we watch. A Mato Grosso

Antbird appears right beside us in the bushes shortly followed by a Barred

Antshrike then further on we find a nice collection of other species. White-

wedged Piculet, Ashy-headed Greenlet, Stripe-throated Tody-Tyrant and Short-

crested Flycatcher all eventually show themselves. A Large-billed Antwren starts

calling close by so we try playing a bit of the call and it flies in right over our heads

then as we are about to turn back a Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher appears.

Some people are wilting fast so we head back for lunch.

It is nice and cool in the dining room and we enjoy a delicious lunch before

gathering back outside where we discover an Orange-backed Troupial on the

feeders - wow! Then amazingly we walk towards the bus where Milson has found

another Ferruginous Pygmy Owl and this one is even closer! It is literally just

three feet away holding itself rather stiffly in the branches of a low tree.

We get on our way and spot two Marsh Deer then things are quiet for a while

and some people doze off in the warmth and with little to see. However, the

further we go the more things start to get interesting again as the vegetation

changes to wetter marshes and less trees and we start seeing more and more

egrets and herons and a surprising number of Maguari Storks. A family

of Capybara cross the road, we spot lots of Yellow-headed Vultures, Savannah

Hawks, Snail Kites and more, then to our surprise a group of three Collared

Peccaries

We make a stop and within seconds of getting out of the vehicle Milson has

spotted a Great Horned Owl with a very well grown chick which looks back

goggle-eyed at us! An American Pygmy Kingfisher is feeding close to the track and

we start scanning the marshes finding various other birds. There is an amazing

number of Maguari Storks and also lots of Snail Kites as well as Rusty-collared

Seedeaters, Uniform Blackbirds, Rusty-backed and Yellow-chinned Spinetails.

A Long-winged Harrier flies through disturbing a big flock of seedeaters and

blackbirds, plus lots of both Grey-breasted and Brown-chested Martins. We hear

a Chotoy Spinetail calling and play a little of the recording and get a very quick

response with two birds showing extremely well. We find Scarlet Flycatcher,

Short-crested Flycatcher, White-headed Marsh-Tyrant, Black-backed Water-

Tyrant and our first Southern Screamers.

We move on and make a brief stop at another spot where we hope for a couple

of specific birds though we find neither of them. We do however get superb

views of a Striped Cuckoo which is a great sighting and even starts dust-bathing

on the road. We also get even better views of American Pygmy Kingfisher

in superb light and there are Blue-black Grassquits everywhere

We continue on our way with the light fading and a beautiful sunset as we head

on to our lodge where we have a nice hours break before our evening meal and

our run through the checklist and discussion about tomorrow…. our first chance

for the big cat!!

Day 7: After breakfast we gather at the big fish (also known as the jetty!) and settle into

our boat ready for the off. We are excited! It is a bit of a ride down the river

to reach the better areas for Jaguars - without doubt the top priority - and

we hope to see one before the end of the morning.

We cruise along for a while staring at the tops of the river bank then arrive

at a sand bank where we pause to enjoy the sight of a pair of Black Skimmers,

two Large-billed Terns and a pair of Yellow-billed Terns with a chick. There

is a Pied Plover here and a family of Capybaras and we are happily taking photos

when the boat radio springs to life. The message is all in Portuguese of course

but we can tell from Lucas’s reaction it is news! Moments later we are speeding

down the river at high speed, hair in the wind, leaning into the bends and hugely

excited! Surely we can’t be so lucky so quickly can we? It takes a little time to get

to the spot but when we do, there, out on top of the bank looking round regally,

is a superb male Jaguar! What a wonderful sight, this is surely one of the most

impressive animals in the world. He looks around and watches as a couple more

boats arrive and looks completely unbothered. He looks amazing but we can't

help noticing he only has one eye, the other just a red space and Lucas tells

us it is a Jaguar known as, 'The Pirate'. He sits there looking majestic for a while

then suddenly gets up, turns his back on us and saunters into the trees, releasing

a spray behind him as he goes as if to say, 'That is what I think of that!'

We are grinning from ear to ear and wait a little while in case he returns but

within a few minutes news comes of two more and we are off again! When

we arrive one of them is still visible on top of the bank - a female this time and

she is absolutely beautiful. She is so elegant and beautifully marked and she

wanders down the bank onto a sandy beach and, like a top glamour model, walks

along for everyone to admire her. She is simply stunning and the cameras are

clicking like the paparazzi - not just from us but from other boats too. With all

the boats in radio contact you don’t get to watch a Jaguar on your own anymore.

Despite all the boats she seems unconcerned and lies down for a sleep for a little

while, before getting up and wandering down the beach some more. The only

point we feel things are not so good is when she seems to be thinking of crossing

the river but it appears the boats put her off. She continues down the beach,

then after pausing a little while, allowing the boats to move on ahead - she turns

round, walks back a small way then steps gently into the river and swims across.

Was it deliberate? Who knows, but either way it looked clever. We follow her

along the bank for a little way before she heads into the trees. We have spent

quite a while with her but it seems to have gone in a flash! We move down the

river a little way hoping to pick her up again then realise the second animal is just

round the corner resting on the sand though not in a very easy position. So that

is three animals and we have only been out for an hour!

News comes in that our first animal, Pirate, is showing again and we head back,

soon finding the boats and discover it is walking along the top of the bank. After

a few minutes it comes down the bank and slips into the water and works its way

along the shore half swimming and half walking along the bottom as he searches

for anything he can catch. He is definitely hunting and stops here and there

to stare ahead but mostly keeps working along the shore, boats cruising along

at the same speed. What a fantastic sight - an impressive animal indeed and here

and there he leaves the water briefly, a quick shake and a look round, then back

in to continue. We spend a long time with him, following along, or getting ahead

to watch him approaching. It is wonderful and time flies by! When he finally goes

up the bank and into the trees we feel we have been incredibly privileged.

News comes of another animal a little distance away and we arrive to see some

spots vanishing into the trees. We are just too late but apparently there

is another further on and we head off to see if we can see that one! This rate

of discovery is exceptional and we arrive to find this one stood right out in the

open on a huge tree root of a toppled tree. She looks superb and poses

beautifully before heading along the bank top and finding a shady spot where she

is fairly well hidden for a rest.

This makes five sightings even if you ignore the two-second one vanishing into the

trees! This is as many sightings as we had in two full days last time we came.

It is too easy perhaps - surely you should have to work harder than this for such

privileged wildlife watching?! We don’t care, it has been incredible and we start

back towards the lodge feeling thrilled. We make a short stop at the sand bank

where there are the skimmers, plovers and capybara and another bank of similar

species further on, though here there is a pair of Southern Screamers too with

a fluffy yellow chick! A Jabiru in the background is so harassed by Large-billed

Terns that it takes flight looking like a huge aircraft being harried by tiny fighter

jets! We pick out a Great Black Hawk and glimpse an American Pygmy Kingfisher

before we head back.

Back at the lodge we are heading to our rooms but can’t resist the noisy calls

of Hyacinth Macaws and find a pair nearby making a real racket! We can’t decide

if they are fighting or just having fun. They are a fabulous colour - brilliant blue

with yellow on the face. There is also a stunning male Scarlet Flycatcher, several

Southern Crested Caracaras, Tropical Kingbirds, Monk Parakeets and a Cattle

Tyrant.

After lunch we have a break in the heat of the day as it really is very hot now,

before meeting up again at 3:30pm. We decide to try and see Giant Otter this

afternoon and focus on some of the better areas for this species. As we travel

out we make a stop to check some waders, the first a Spotted Sandpiper, the

second a White-rumped Sandpiper. Further on we get great views of the terns

and Black Skimmers again and of course there are the usual herons and egrets.

We watch two Jabirus standing with wings held wide open and we wonder if they

are displaying or perhaps the heat helps the feathers somehow.

We continue on our way up a creek where we know there is a family of Giant

Otters and spend a while up here, but with no luck. We find Rusty-backed

Spinetail, Great Black Hawk, Uniform Blackbirds and get astonishing close up views

of a Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture. We find several boats watching an empty

bank where two Jaguars have disappeared but they are no longer visible. We wait

a little while but decide to stay focussed and feel a little unlucky that no Giant

Otters appear here.

Moving on we try more places. We get great views of Sick’s Swift flying low

overhead, with dozens of Southern Rough-winged Swallows, Black capped

Donacobius, immature Roadside Hawk, Black-collared Hawk and a small flock

of Fork-tailed Flycatchers in the treetops. There seems to be more Caimans here

and a few Capybara - but no otters.

Eventually we run out of time and start on our way back with the sun just setting.

As we go the first Band-tailed Nighthawks appear and soon they are everywhere!

At one spot there must be thirty or more of them and we enjoy wonderful views

with Lucas lighting them up with the torch to help show up the white bar under

the tail. Then suddenly up ahead we realise there are masses of bats! Lucas

explains these are Lesser Bulldog Bats and also that we should look out for

Greater Bulldog Bats amongst them and we do pick out at least one bigger slower

flapping bat of this species. There are dozens and we enjoy watching them hawk

for insects low over the water for the rest of the ride back - a wonderful finish

to the day.

Day 8: It is cold! This comes as a bit of a surprise after the heat of yesterday and

we suspect it will soon warm up but as we head out the wind chill makes it feel

even colder! We head to the first side channel which we try in search of Giant

Otters, our main target today, and spend a long time looking with no luck -

though we do enjoy superb close up views of Black Skimmer, including a fluffy

chick with an oversized bill. There are both species of terns here too and

beautiful Pied Plovers with well grown chicks that seem to be all legs. We also

watch an Osprey working its way down the river ahead of us which is always nice

to see in any country.

We continue our search checking next a channel where there is a known otter

family. We find a boat with people peering into the vegetation and assume they

might have otters but they say a Jaguar was seen heading this way but seems

to have vanished. We watch for a little while then suddenly there it is walking

along the bank! We get a brief but superb view is it comes down the bank and

drops into the tall grasses where we can just make out its back and head some

of the time. It heads under some trees and disappears from view behind the

foliage but excitingly we can hear it growling very clearly - almost like short

growling barks!

We decide to head back out towards the mouth of the channel and there

is another boat - this time the occupants looking half-heartedly under the bushes.

It is therefore a great surprise to find that this time it really is otters! A group

of five Giant Otters are here, some in the water and others up on the bank.

We are very excited and the cameras are clicking away as we watch them,

sometimes up on the bank then all in the water and then back up on the bank

where you can see the entire animal. Sometimes individuals vanish up under the

bushes and we suspect the holt is there at the top of a sandy chute, and their

behaviour adds to our suspicion when they keep doing a strange motion

of waddling around with their feet as if doing some kind of soft-shoe-shuffle!

Lucas explains that they urinate and then mash it into the sand with their feet

to mark their territory - nice!

Suddenly they all enter the water and start off upstream, working their way along

the edge of the water hyacinths and making loud contact noises constantly.

Disappearing underneath the plants, occasionally one appears at the surface with

a fish - then it is crunch, crunch, crunch as the fish is held in rather strange,

webbed, yet almost human hands and munched rapidly. The noise is amazing and

each fish takes about a minute to disappear. One animal surfaces with

a particularly large fish that takes a little longer to eat and it is left behind by the

rest in the process. Wow - what a fuss!! Having lost sight of its friends

it immediately seems very distressed and swims fast down the river making

a horrible screeching sound louder and louder. It is an awful noise and we follow

it upstream unable to prevent ourselves laughing at the terrible screeching sound -

until at last a short call from one of the others makes it swivel on the spot and

head in their direction. It is astonishing to see how upset it seems - or are

we adding an extra layer of upset because the noise was so horrendous? Perhaps

all he saying was, “Where are you?” in a calm voice as far as he was concerned?

Surely not., it had to be heard to be believed - far worse than a crying baby!!

Back together again they continue fishing in a narrow side channel where they are

harder to follow and so shortly we decide we will never improve on the views

we have had and decide to see if we can find a Jaguar. We cruise up and down

the river a little but find nothing more and it appears no-one else is finding any

either from what our boatman says. It seems Jaguars like to be beside the river

when it is very hot as it is cooler there - but in colder weather like this, it is only

15 degrees, there is not so much need to. We head back to lunch well pleased

with our morning's sightings.

After lunch a few of us take a short wander round the grounds finding a few nice

birds. Scarlet Flycatchers are showing very well and, at the back of the house

in the middle of the grounds, there are some bird feeders with lots of birds

including Chopi Blackbird, Palm Tanagers, Yellow-billed Cardinals and amazingly

a very tame Toco Toucan. A Grey-crested Cacholote comes in briefly and

we enjoy super close views of Giant Cowbirds. Further round we get our first

‘on-the-ground' view of Bare-faced Ibis and we spot Savannah and Black-chested

Hawks. In the pond area there are several Yellow-chinned Spinetail, two

Southern Screamers and Wattled Jacanas walking round on the giant lily-pads.

We meet up again at 2:30pm for our afternoon boat ride and it is still very cold -

but this time we are better prepared and well wrapped up. We speed down

to the usual good area hoping for just one more Jaguar. We cruise slowly along

the river scanning but with no luck and there are no reports coming over the

radio either. We pass our first Barn Swallows then work our way down a couple

of new channels including one narrow one that proves quite good for birds.

We find Green Kingfisher, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Little Woodpecker, Black-backed

Water-Tyrant, Masked Gnatcatcher, Squirrel Cuckoo, Short-crested Flycatcher,

Ashy-headed Greenlet and Scarlet Flycatcher. There seems to be surprising

numbers of Black-crowned Night Herons and we speculate whether the dull

cloudy weather and cold temperatures have brought them out since it is a little

more like evening. At the far end we find a White-banded Mockingbird which

is a very good find, but soon we decide to head back to base and see if we can

see Hyacinth Macaws coming in to roost, as there seems to be very little

happening on the river. Heading back it is very cold as we go fast, so when

we arrive most of us take a short break for a warm coffee before gathering by the

‘big tree’ where four macaws are already making a noise. As we watch more

come in and land in the trees and palms and we get wonderful views of these

fantastic birds just yards away. They seem so playful and inquisitive and what

an amazing colour they are. There is competition on the noise levels from a flock

of Buff-necked Ibis that have also come to roost here and are perhaps even

noisier than the macaws!

Day 9: After breakfast we get loaded up and stop at reception to pay our bills before

we get on our way, though we have plenty of time for some birding en route

today and make a stop just along the road for a short walk to see what we can

find. It seems a little quiet at first but we get good close views of Fuscous

Flycatcher then a Small-billed Elaenia flies in and, on the track, we have the chance

to compare Ruddy and Picui Ground-doves. There are a couple of Black-fronted

Nunbirds and we get brief views of Cinnamon-breasted Hermit before we spend

a while trying to coax out a Fawn-breasted Wren. Our first try fails but our

second provides fabulous views of a pair very close by. We get a brief view

of Fork-tailed Woodnymph, a Blue-crowned Trogon perches up in full view and

we play a little Plain Antvireo call and it eventually shows very well. A Gilded

Sapphire is a new hummingbird which perches long enough to even get the

scopes on it.

We move on, starting our journey back out along the Transpantaneira, making

a stop beside a bridge where there is a mix of pools, a stream and scruffy bushes.

Here we find a couple of scarce birds almost immediately - White-naped

Xenopsaris and Yellow-browed Tyrant. A beautiful White-tailed Hawk flies over

as Lucas starts playing a bit of Cinereous-breasted Spinetail - which reacts quickly

and comes out right by the track. We walk a little and find more birds from

a bridge over a pool including White-wedged Piculet, American Pygmy Kingfisher,

Black-backed Water-Tyrant, Unicolored Blackbird, a pair of Yellow-chinned

Spinetails building a nest then two Little Cuckoos one of which has no tail. There

are plenty of familiar birds here such Jabiru, Southern Screamers, Snail Kites,

Savannah Hawk, Scarlet Flycatcher and the usual herons and egrets but we should

be enjoying them as much as we can as after today we leave them all behind!

At our next stop we find Double-collared and Rusty-collared Seedeaters, Pearl-

vented Tody-Tyrant but nothing else of note and further on we stop for photos

of Black-bellied Whistling-ducks. There are Maguari Storks here and there, plenty

of Black-crowned Night Herons and the Yacaré Caiman seem to be out

in enormous numbers along the banks. Then we are travelling along the

Transpantaneira just enjoying the sight of so many birds as we drive. Herons,

egrets, storks, Jabiru, kingfishers, Snail Kites, Black-collared and Savannah Hawks,

Limpkins, Screamers and more but we have to stop when we get good views

of a showy Scarlet-headed Blackbird.

We stop for lunch at the same restaurant as on the way in, which seems like ages

ago! Again there are dozens of Yellow-billed Cardinals here, Purplish Jays,

Southern Crested Caracaras, Shiny and Giant Cowbirds but nothing different,

so after a delicious lunch we get back on route.

We drive until we reach the ‘three-bridges’ area where there is a car parked and

a guy who was in the dining room where we ate. Apparently, he spotted

an Anaconda here yesterday - but today there is no sign of it. We search hard

up and down the road just in case and enjoy the sight of dozens if not hundreds

of Yacaré Caiman out on the bank in rows facing the water or sometimes even

in layers all over each other. There are lots of birds here and we enjoy our final

views of the species so common here as well as Capybaras and a group of four

Greater Rheas - but no snake. .

We drive on but have not gone far when Roy spots a wader so we stop and

check it out - our first Solitary Sandpiper. Then we drive on looking as we go for

Giant Anteaters. With the day being a bit cooler there is a slim chance one might

be out a bit earlier in the day and it is already late afternoon. We spot deer and

a dog and numerous hairy looking bushes and tufts of grass but still nothing and

time moves gradually on. Roy and Lucas refuse to give in and keep staring out

into the grasslands dotted with termite mounds but we are rapidly running out

of habitat - then suddenly Roy shouts “Stop!!” We reverse back a little and there,

like a furry bush in the long grass, is a Giant Anteater! We are delighted and

carefully get out to watch as it slowly works its way along, hidden some of the

time behind bushes and long grass but now and then the long nose is visible and

at times almost the whole animal. Annoyingly a big cow walks through grunting

as it comes and spooks the anteater which has a surprising turn of speed and

dashes off behind a bush. We watch and wait and can see movement in the back,

but it seems to be walking directly away from us now and finally vanishes from

view but wow - we are thrilled and everyone has a big smile on their face - they

do exist!!

Back on our way, a few minutes later we reach the tarmac and a smoother ride

as we head on to Cuiabá and our hotel where we are staying the night before

a horribly early start for our flight to Foz de Iguazu tomorrow.

Day 10: It feels like the middle of the night when we meet up to head to the airport -

perhaps because it is - we have to be there by just after 3:00am!! We check

in and go through security then most of us manage to catch up with some sleep

on the flight before we have breakfast at São Paulo. Here we have enough time

to grab some breakfast before we catch the flight onwards to Iguazu. Here

we meet Martin, our new local guide - and we are pleasantly surprised when

we discover he not only speaks good English but is also a keen birder!

We pass through passport control at the Argentinian border then drive to a lunch

spot where we order pizzas and salad for lunch. After we have eaten we drive

next to the Jardin de Picadores - or hummingbird garden to you and I - and what

a fabulous place. With lots of feeders there are loads of hummingbirds here and

we start trying to work out the names and how to identify them. The vast

majority are Versicolored Emeralds and Lucas points out how there are two

different subspecies here - the usual rather blue and speckle-throated one and

other with a large area of pure white on the throat. There are two or three

Gilded Sapphires, a Glittering-throated Emerald and at least two Black Jacobins,

very smart indeed despite the lack of colour. A Violet-crowned Woodnymph

is perched up a lot of the time and we are thrilled when two Planalto Hermits

arrive, looking superb and providing much better views than our previous

sightings. The one we are really hoping for now is Swallow-tailed Hummingbird

and we are beginning to think it will never appear when suddenly there it is at one

of the feeders displaying its long forked tail. Hummingbirds are not the only birds

here and we also get superb views of both Violaceous and Chestnut-bellied

Euphonias, a female Ruby-crowned Tanager, a beautiful Green-headed Tanager,

Red-rumped Cacique, Saffron Finches and Shiny Cowbirds.

After spending plenty of time here and thoroughly enjoying it all we decide

to head to the lodge and check in. The lodge is surrounded with forest so there

is then an optional outing into the forest for some birdwatching later in the

afternoon. This proves very good with a great selection of birds starting right

by the lodge with Red-rumped Caciques. As we enter the forest our first new

bird is Eared Pygmy-Tyrant, a tiny flycatcher, shortly followed by Yellow

Tyrannulet, and then we get superb views of Rufous Gnateater, a species that can

be very difficult being so skulky. We walk on spotting Pale-breasted Thrush, a pair

of Red-crowned Ant-Tanagers, and spend a while trying to coax out a motmot

but with no luck. As we work on it, a pair of Black-goggled Tanagers fly in then

we hear Rufous-winged Antwrens calling and try to encourage them closer

instead. This works well though they seem determined to stick to the very tops

of the trees. An Olivaceous Woodcreeper flies across the track and climbs one

of the tree trunks and as we try to get more views of the antwrens we discover

a pair of Chestnut-vented Conebills and get a brief views of a Green-winged

Saltator. Back on the main path we get fabulous views of Tropical Parula and then

the Red-crowned Ant-Tanagers show much better. Almost back at the lodge

a group of three Magpie Tanagers show very well and while we are watching

them we realise that there is a flock of Sick’s Swifts high up behind them.

Day 11: We enjoy a superb breakfast at 6:00am before driving out into the forest and

a spot where we can birdwatch from a wide dirt road - that is once we get past

the crazy jobsworth security guard who wants to check everything in detail

including our shoe size and even then insists the van drops us off and comes back

for us later!

We are dropped off part-way down the track and start birding with the calls

of birds all around us but very little visible! It is strange how few birds we seem

able to find given there are calls everywhere! The occasional bird flits across the

track or between trees and instantly vanishes but a Squirrel Cuckoo shows briefly

and we get a good view of a beautiful male Surucuá Trogon. A smallish green

bird appears and we stare at it and wonder what it is! It shows well but for

a moment we are just not sure, with Roy convinced it is a flycatcher since

it is green with two wing bars so typical of so many flycatchers here - but the

head is rather large, the bill stubby and eye big and Lucas announces it is a Wing-

barred Piprites!! This is a big surprise and a scarce bird anywhere so a great find

and we are even more surprised when a second bird comes to join it.

The next bird is a bit confusing too. It looks rather like a becard but is quickly

identified by Martin and Lucas a Sirystes. In our book it is labelled eastern but

apparently this has now been split into four species and the one here is called

Sibilant Sirystes. At last a few more birds appear and we add Rufous-crowned

Greenlet, Yellow Tyrannulet, House Wren, lots of Red-rumped Caciques and

a flock of Plush-crested Jays work their way through - a great looking bird with

a very strange facial expression as it has raised eyebrows the whole time (and

bright blue ones at that!) Toco Toucans, Scaly-headed Parrots and White-eyed

Parakeets fly over, then a Wood Rail crosses the road quickly. We suspect Slaty-

breasted Wood Rail, which is more likely here, so we try playing the call and very

quickly get a response, with the bird coming very close but staying hidden

in dense foliage.

We reach an area of lower scrubby bushes in a wetland area and here we find

Long-tailed Tyrant in the tree tops, a lovely bird. We also have the chance

to compare Social and Three-striped Flycatchers, which look very similar but with

different coloured throats. We find Chestnut-crowned Becard, glimpse a White-

spotted Woodpecker and two Swallow-tailed Kites fly over – superb as ever.

We get good views of Bran-coloured flycatcher though wonder whether bran

really is that colour?

We move on to another spot where lots of Red-rumped Caciques are passing

through. A Green-headed Tanager appears in the trees and our first Guira

Tanager too. Walking down a track towards the lunch spot we find what appears

to be an Elaenia but then we notice it has no wing bars! This has to make

it Greenish Elaenia, a scarce bird here and the first Lucas has seen in many years.

Then suddenly there are Southern Coatis! Not just a couple but a whole troop

of them wandering all over the track, climbing the walls around the car park,

up in the trees and everywhere. They are around our feet and checking whether

we might have any food for them but also apparently foraging quite naturally

in the leaf litter, sometimes digging up a grub or a worm.

We turn the corner to find lots of people! It is time to swap our birding heads for

tourist heads and join the throng. Here we head to the restaurant and watch the

crowd outside while we enjoy a superb lunch. There are plenty more Coatis out

there too and a poster showing the damage they can do to your hand if you are

not careful in how you treat them, the suggestion being that feeding them is not

really a good move. It is certainly not deterring everyone though!

After lunch we start on our walk to see the famous waterfalls. We are going

to do the lower trail and perhaps the upper trail too and it feels odd

to be amongst the crowds of visitors. There are some beautiful butterflies

as we walk and we are making our way down a track when suddenly, there

it is - the waterfall! It is impressive indeed but then Martin points out that this

is only a tiny bit of it and that it is in fact 2km long!! For the next while we follow

the walkways getting one view after another of this incredible place. There was

a lot of rain for three full days before we arrived and this has certainly made

a difference with high water levels and brown water and cascades are looking

incredible! In places they are like curtains with a long line of waterfalls side by side

pouring over the edge and smashing noisily into the rocks below sending great

clouds of spray up into the air in a spectacular display. A boat full of people down

below goes right in for a close look - they must be completely soaked, but they

add scale for us to get a better feeling for the height. What a place!!!

Wildlife is not abundant but it doesn’t matter as it is the falls we have come

to see and it is lovely to have time to take them in from different angles. Lucas

points out the Devil’s Throat, the main part of the falls in terms of water coming

down with a third pouring into this section. There is a big flock of Black Vultures

over it. Other than that, Plush-crested Jays are a highlight with some very close

views of birds that look like they might be happy to be hand fed if we had

something. We also find the occasional Amazon Lava Lizard with several in one

spot including a head-bobbing male. We have fun walking out to a spot where

the water is powering into the rocks just yards away and get wet in the spray -

an exhilarating experience.

Reaching the end of the lower trail we take a short break and enjoy a coffee

accompanied by friendly Coatis, then start on the upper trail. This provides more

wonderful views of the falls and some are exceptional, allowing for an almost

complete view down the whole length. It is simply stunning and we take dozens

of photographs as it is impossible to resist. The spray from the falls even creates

its own rainbows in the sunshine making for even more photo opportunities –

and we are convinced it has to be the most impressive waterfall in the world.

Those who have visited the other famous falls are sure of it. We find more lizards

and then when we come out at the top of one of the falls we are astonished

to notice a Slaty-breasted Wood Rail stood happily at the top preening. What

a treat to see this in full view and, as we watch, it finishes preening and looks for

a moment like it might walk into the nearby vegetation. Then it turns to face out

over the falls and stretches its neck to peer out into the open space and down

the falls. We joke that it has delusions of grandeur, picturing itself leaping out into

the air and taking flight over the falls – something that seems incredibly unlikely for

any kind of rail – so we are astonished when it does just that!! Taking a few steps

forwards it slips off the rock and vanishes over the edge dropping away and down

way below in a flurry of wings - and there is much laughter about what may have

been going on in its head.

We finally arrive at the furthest point and enjoy the amazing view there before

returning to a spot where we hope to watch the Great Dusky Swifts coming

in to roost. This spectacle is well known from wildlife documentaries as they are

famous for roosting behind the waterfall. At the moment the sky is empty

of swifts but we watch White-eyed Parakeets fly to roost and Toco Toucans that

put on a show before disappearing. An immature Roadside Hawk is perched

up and there is a mass of Black Vultures. The local official comes to send

everyone out as the park closes before the swifts go to roost but we have a local

guide so we can stay. Except this guy doesn’t seem at all happy about this! There

is much discussion in Spanish and the guy is on his radio looking annoyed and

there is lots of gesturing and then we are told we can stay until 6:00pm but

no later! We hope this will be late enough but we are certainly not sure.

We wait. A Black-fronted Guan flies in and perches up in the tree tops but then

just before six a ranger appears and tells us we have to leave! Again, there

is some discussion but he is having none of it and insists on accompanying

us to the entrance! It is so frustrating! We know the swifts will appear any

minute but it is just not quite dark enough yet, and of course as we are marched

out of the park we can see the swifts finally arriving. He is so annoyed he won’t

even let us stop for a moment to look at them! Our biggest concern is for Martin,

he is asked to go to the office when we leave the park and we stop at the

entrance so he can go and see the ranger there. He returns a few minutes later -

all is fine and it seems he did nothing wrong, which in a way makes all the more

frustrating. We guess we were just unlucky - but it is frustrating to have missed

the roosting swifts as this is our only chance and we dare not try again tomorrow

after this experience.

Day 12: Todays birding starts on a short trail on the way to the park entrance known

as the Antenna Trail. It is a good spot and we enjoy excellent views of Golden-

crowned Warbler, Guira Tanager, White-eyed Parakeets flying over and then

at the end of the track a pair of beautiful Blue-naped Chlorophonia. We spot

Black-goggled Tanager, Magpie Tanager and Purple throated Euphonia, as well

as other more common species before heading back to the van.

We drive on and enter the park then walk down towards a trail where we are

intending to do some birding. As we walk through the park entrance and beyond

we find Southern Lapwing, Rufous Hornero, Plus-crested Jay, Blue-and-White

Swallows and, overhead, a massive flock of Great Dusky Swift - which partially

makes up for missing the roost yesterday. We play some of the call of Variable

Antshrike and shortly after a pair come in to investigate providing great views.

We take a track down through some short scrub where we get brief views

of Tawny-capped Pygmy-Tyrant. We find more Black-goggled Tanagers, a Fawn-

breasted Tanager then, at last, we get Ochre-collared PIculet - a species we have

been hearing all over the place but failed to locate until now. Further on we find

a very vocal Southern Ant-pipit but wow it is elusive! We can hear it is very close,

it calls again and again and eventually Jeremy spots it and gives us directions but

it vanishes again in seconds and that is that! The next bird however is a star and

performs very well – a beautiful Blonde-crested Woodpecker. This is shortly

followed by excellent views of Yellow-fronted Woodpecker, another superb

looking bird. We spend a frustrating time trying to see Blue Manakin which

we can hear calling and calling but we just can’t get on it, and we have the same

problem with Black-throated Trogon but while searching a Gray-fronted Dove

comes out on the path and Christine spots a Sepia-capped Flycatcher. A White-

eyed Foliage-Gleaner starts to call nearby so we coax it in and what a bird, with

eyes like a mad scientist staring white!

We head for lunch at the same restaurant as yesterday and then wander down

to the railway station to catch the train to the top of the falls. The journey

up on the narrow-gauge railway is pleasant enough but at the top we are

astonished by butterflies. There are dozens of them coming to sip from muddy

puddles and we take lots of photos as they are spectacular. There are brilliant

yellow and white ones, smaller yellow and black ones, bright orange ones some

with patterns, a small number of heliconia species, all black and red and white, and

two swallowtails species - one black and yellow with masses of yellow and the

other is astonishing, being white with black bars and cross bars but the wings are

see-through from about half way out! It is exquisite!!

Now we start on our walk out across the walkways over the river to the famous

Devil’s Throat. There are more butterflies on the walkway and we get close

views of Plush-crested Jay, several Neotropic Cormorants and a wonderful

Anhinga, right by the walkway and even visible for a few moments underwater.

The tail is quite incredible and explains the nickname ‘water turkey’. We find

Social Flycatcher, Kiskadees, Great Egret and lots of Black Vultures.

Then all the birds are forgotten as we stand and stare at the astonishing sight

before us. The river is immense as it piles over the edge of the falls boiling and

swelling as it hits the next layer of rocks before powering out over the edge and

down into a mist of spray. Americans use the word awesome to describe

so many trivial things but we are more choosey and this deserves the word in its

true meaning. This is truly awesome - the power of the water and immenseness

of the scene is breath-taking, and the noise and spray and sheer volume of water

is almost impossible to take in. As well as the incredible volume of water going

into the Devil’s Throat there are further waterfalls one after another trailing back

away from you. It is so impressive words simply fail you - you have to be there!

We spend a long time just standing and staring, and taking photos of course, but

also just soaking up the atmosphere. If you look away and chat to someone for

a moment then turn back it hits you all over again! There is no rush to get away

and we take our time to really enjoy the sight before eventually deciding perhaps

we should drag ourselves away. We walk back across to the railway, pausing

to look at birds and butterflies again before taking the train back to the entrance.

The holiday feels like it is over. It has been absolutely superb and this has been

an incredible climax - so why not celebrate with an ice-cream! We go to

Freddo’s – a place with proper ice-cream and some great flavours such

as ‘coconut and dulce de leche!’ Awesome!! Oops – I’m turning all American!

It is a lovely way to finish the day before we head for home where we have

a break before meeting up for our evening meal.

In the evening we do our final run through the checklist and then our traditional

round up before our evening meal. This means choosing species of the trip (and

given the things we have seen we allow five of these) a favourite place and

a magic moment.

It is not surprising that everyone includes Jaguar in their list of five species. It is the

biggest target species of the trip and would be strange if it wasn’t there right

at the top. It is lovely however to chat about the different animals and what

we saw them dong and remind ourselves of the wonderful sightings we had.

It really is an exceptional animal. Giant Otters also get a mention by just about

everyone, largely because they performed so well and were so close - but also

because of the one that lost its friends and made the most dreadful noise until

he found them again. Giant Anteater gets plenty of mentions too - another major

species and we were so thrilled to get a second chance. Also scoring quite highly

are Brazilian Tapir and Hyacinth Macaw, then Sunbittern and Great Potoo plus

a list of many other species all getting a single vote from smaller birds like Collared

Crescentchest, Helmeted Manakin and Band-tailed Manakin to bigger species like

Swallow-tailed Kite, Squirrel Cuckoo and Red-and-green Macaw. Capybara scores

a vote as do Tamandua and Southern Coati.

Favourite place was overwhelmingly Iguazu Falls – with people mentioning both

the trails and the Devil’s Throat specifically. The holiday was quite hard work with

lots of early mornings – so Marge chooses bed!

Magic Moments not surprisingly including lots of mentions of Jaguars and Giant

Otters - they really were the highlights - though for Roy finding his own Giant

Anteater is a moment he will remember for ever.

All that remains is to say a huge thank to Lucas for his fabulous leadership, making

the business of running the trip look easy while at same being such great company

and good fun. We have enjoyed a lot of laughs as a result. We then enjoy our

meal and head for an early night - it is another horribly early start for our journey

to the airport and our flights home in the morning.

Birds

Red-legged Seriema Cariama cristata

Greater Rhea Rhea americana

Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus

Tataupa Tinamou Crypturellus tataupa

Red-winged Tinamou Rhynchotus rufescens

Chaco Chachalaca Ortalis canicollis

Chestnut-bellied Guan Penelope ochrogaster

Blue-throated Piping Guan Pipile cumanensis

Red-throated Piping Guan Pipile cujubi

Black-fronted Piping Guan Pipile jacuntinga

Bare-faced Curassow Crax fasciolata

Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus

Anhinga Anhinga anhinga

Southern Screamer Chauna torquata

Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata

Black-bellied Whistling Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis

Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus

Striated Heron Butorides striata

Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius

Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax

Rufescent Tiger Heron Tigrisoma lineatum

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis

Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea

Snowy Egret Egretta thula

Great Egret Ardea alba

Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus

Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi

Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix

Buff-necked Ibis Theristicus caudatus

Plumbeous Ibis Theristicus caerulescens

Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis

Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus

White-faced Ibis Plegadis chihi

Limpkin Aramus guarauna

Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja

Wood Stork Mycteria americana

Maguari Stork Ciconia maguari

Jabiru Jabiru mycteria

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura

Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus

Osprey Pandion haliaetus

Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus

Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea

Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis

Long-winged Harrier Circus buffoni

Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris

Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus

White-tailed Hawk Buteo albicaudatus

Savannah Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis

Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis

Great Black Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga

Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima

Southern Crested Caracara Caracara plancus

Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis

American Kestrel Falco sparverius

Gray-necked Wood Rail Aramides cajaneus

Slaty-breasted Wood Rail Aramides saracura

Sunbittern Eurypyga helias

Sungrebe Heliornis fulica

Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana

Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis

Pied Plover Hoploxypterus cayanus

Collared Plover Charadrius collaris

White-backed Stilt Himantopus melanurus

Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria

Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius

White-rumped Sandpiper Calidris fuscicollis

Yellow-billed Tern Sternula superciliaris

Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex

Black Skimmer Rynchops niger

Feral Pigeon Columba livia

Scaled Pigeon Patagioenas speciosa

Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis

Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro

Long-tailed Ground Dove Uropelia campestris

Scaled Dove Columbina squammata

Picui Ground Dove Columbina picui

Ruddy Ground Dove Columbina talpacoti

Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata

White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi

Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxila

Hyacinth Macaw Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus

Red-and-green Macaw Ara chloropterus

Golden-collared Macaw Primolius auricollis

White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalma

Peach-fronted Parakeet Aratinga aurea

Nanday Parakeet Nandayus nenday

Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus

Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri

Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus

Scaly-headed Parrot Pionus maximiliani

Turquoise-fronted Amazon Amazona aestiva

Little Cuckoo Coccycua minuta

Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana

Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani

Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia

Guira Cuckoo Guira guira

Great Horned Owl Bubo virginianus

Ferruginous Pygmy Owl Glaucidium brasilianum

Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia

Great Potoo Nyctibius grandis

Band-tailed Nighthawk Nyctiprogne leucopyga

Scissor-tailed Nightjar Hydropsalis torquata

Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis

Little Nightjar Caprimulgus parvulus

White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris

Great Dusky Swift Cypseloides senex

Sick's Swift Chaetura meridionalis

Planalto Hermit Phaethornis pretrei

Buff-bellied Hermit Phaethornis subochraceus

Cinnamon-throated Hermit Phaethornis nattereri

Swallow-tailed Hummingbird Eupetomena macroura

Black Jacobin Florisuga fusca

White-vented Violetear Colibri serrirostris

Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricolis

Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata

Violet-capped Woodnymph Thalurania glaucopis

Glittering-throated Emerald Amazilia fimbriata

Versicolored Emerald Amazilia versicolor

Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon Lucidus

Gilded Sapphire Hylocharis chrysura

Suracuá Trogon Trogon surrucura

Blue-crowned Trogon Trogon curucui

Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquatus

Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona

Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana

American Pygmy Kingfisher Chloroceryle aenea

Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda

White-eared Puffbird Nystalus maculatus

Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa nigrifrons

Chestnut-eared Araçari Pteroglossus castanotis

Channel-billed Toucan Ramphastos vitellinus

Toco Toucan Ramphastos toco

Spot-billed Toucanet Selenidera maculirostris

Ochre-collared Piculet Picumnus temminckii

White-wedged Piculet Picumnus albosquamatus

Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus

White-spotted Woodpecker Veniliornis spilogaster

Yellow-tufted Woodpecker Melanerpes cruentatus

Yellow-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes flavifrons

Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochloros

Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris

White Woodpecker Melanerpes candidus

Blond-crested Woodpecker Celeus lugubris

Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos

Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus

Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes angustirostris

Buff-throated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynichus guttatus

Great Rufous Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes major

Red-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus trochilirostris

Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus

Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus

Grey-crested Cacholote Pseudoseisura unirufa

Pale-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis albescens

Cinereous-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis hypospodia

White-lored Spinetail Synallaxis albilora

Chotoy Spinetail Schoeniophylax phryganophilus

Rusty-backed Spinetail Cranioleuca vulpina

Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomeus

Greater Thornbird Phacellodomus ruber

Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans

White-eyed Foliage-gleaner Automolus leucophthalmus

Ochre-breasted Foliage-gleaner Philydor lichtensteini

Great Antshrike Taraba major

Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus

Rufous-winged Antshrike Thamnophilus torquatus

Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens

Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis

Large-billed Antwren Herpsilochmus longirostris

Rusty-backed Antwren Formicivora rufa

Rufous-winged Antwren Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus

Mato Grosso Antbird Cercomacra melanaria

Rufous Gnateater Conopophaga lineata

Collared Crescentchest Melanopareia torquata

Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster

Lesser Elaenia Elaenia chiriquensis

Plain-crested Elaenia Elaenia cristata

Small-billed Elaenia Elaenia parvirostris

Grey Elaenia Myiopagis caniceps

Greenish Elaenia Myiopagis viridicata

Plain Inezia Inezia inornata

Tawny-crowned Pygmy Tyrant Euscarthmus meloryphus

Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer

Stripe-necked Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus striaticollis

Eared Pygmy Tyrant Myiornis auricularis

Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum

Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher Poecilotriccus latirostris

Yellow Tyrannulet Capsiempis flaveola

Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus

Southern Antpipit Corythopis delandi

Fuscous Flycatcher Cnemotriccus fuscatus

Bran-colored Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus

Scarlet (Vermilion) Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus

White-rumped Monjita Xolmis velatus

Streamer-tailed Tyrant Gubernetes yetapa

Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosa

Black-backed Water Tyrant Fluvicola albiventer

White-headed Marsh Tyrant Arundinicola leucocephala

Crested Black Tyrant Knipolegus lophotes

Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus

Sibilant (Eastern) Sirystes Sirystes sibilator

Short-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus ferox

Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea

Rufous Casiornis Casiornis rufus

Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua

Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus

Lesser Kiskadee Philohydor lictor

Rusty-margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis

Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis

Three-striped Flycatcher Conopias trivirgatus

Yellow-browed Tyrant Satrapa icterophrys

Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius

Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus

Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus

Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana

White-naped Xenopsaris Xenopsaris albinucha

Chestnut-crowned Becard Pachyramphus castaneus

Crested Becard Pachyramphus validus

Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata

Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor

Helmeted Manakin Antilophia galeata

Fiery-capped Manakin Machaeropterus pyrocephalus

Band-tailed Manakin Pipra fascicauda

Plush-crested Jay Cyanocorax chrysops

Purplish Jay Cyanocorax cyanomelas

Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea

Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica

White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer

Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca

Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis

Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus

White-banded Mockingbird Mimus triurus

Black-capped Donacobius Donacobius atricapilla

House Wren Troglodytes aedon

Fawn-breasted Wren Cantorchilus guarayanus

Moustached Wren Pheugopedius genibarbis

Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus

Masked Gnatcatcher Polioptila dumicola

Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus

Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas

Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris

Ashy-headed Greenlet Hylophilus pectoralis

Rufous-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus poicilotis

Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi

Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus

White-bellied Warbler Basileuterus hypoleucus

Flavescent Warbler Basileuterus flaveolus

Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis

Guira Tanager Hemithraupis guira

Green-headed Tanager Tangara seledon

Hooded Tanager Nemosia pileata

Bananaquit Coereba flaveola

Chestnut-vented Conebill Conirostrum cucullatus

Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana

Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus

Burnished-buff Tanager Tangara cayana

Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica

Violaceous Euphonia Euphonia violacea

Chestnut-bellied Euphonia Euphonia pectoralis

Blue-naped Chlorophonia Chlorophonia cyanea

Swallow Tanager Tersina viridis

Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota

Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca

Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum

Black-goggled Tanager Trichothraupis melanops

Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo

Red-crowned Ant Tanager Habia rubica

Flame-crested Tanager Tachyphorus cristatus

White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus

Ruby-crowned Tanager Tachyphonus coronatus

Cinnamon Tanager Schistochlamys ruficapillus

Black-faced Tanager Schistochlamys melanopis

Shrike-like Tanager Neothraupis fasciata

White-rumped Tanager Cypsnagra hirundinacea

Magpie Tanager Cissopis leverianus

Yellow-billed Cardinal Paroaria capitata

Red-crested Cardinal Paroaria coronata

Grayish Saltator Saltator coerulescens

Green-winged Saltator Saltator similis

Black-throated Saltator Saltator atricollis

Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina

Rusty-collared Seedeater Sporophila collaris

Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens

Plumbeous Seedeater Sporophila plumbea

Red Pileated Finch Coryphospingus cucullatus

Wedge-tailed Grass Finch Emberizoides herbicola

Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola

Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis

House Sparrow Passer domesticus

Bay-wing Agelaioides badius

Screaming Cowbird Molothrus rufaxillaris

Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis

Giant Cowbird Molothrus oryzivorus

Chopi Blackbird Gnorimopsar chopi

White-browed Blackbird Stumelia superciliaris

Unicolored Blackbird Agelasticus cyanopus

Scarlet-headed Blackbird Amblyramphus holosericeus

Orange-backed Troupial Icterus croconotus

Variable Oriole Icterus pyrroptherus

Solitary Cacique Cacicus solitarius

Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous

Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela

Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus

Mammals

Greater Bulldog Bat Noctilio leporinus

Lesser Bulldog Bat Noctilio albiventris

Guianan Brown-tufted Capuchin Cebus apella

Black-tailed Marmoset Mico melanurus

Giant Otter Pteronura brasiliensis

Crab-eating Fox Cerdocyon thous

Jaguar Panthera onca

South American Coati Nasua nasua

Capybara Hydrochaeris hydrochaeris

Azara's Agouti Dasyprocta azarae

Brazilian Cavy Cavia aperea

Brazilian Rabbit Silvagus brasilensis

Giant Anteater Myrmecophaga tridactyla

Southern Tamandua Tamandua tetradactyla

Red Brocket Deer Mazama americana

Grey Brocket Deer Mazama gouazoubira

Marsh Deer Blastocerus dichotomus

Brazilian Tapir Tapirus terrestris

Collared Peccary Pecari tajacu

Other

Yacaré Caiman Caiman yacare

Green Iguana Iguana iguana

Racerunner sp Ameiva sp

Common Tegu Tupinambis teguixin

Cane Toad Bufo marinus

Fireflies

Wonderful butterflies

Waterfall