Holiday Treasures

DBloc

k Dr Block

D BlocksSew a Fabric 3 E trian-gle to the D patch, anda Fabric 2 E triangle tothe Dr patch. Make oneof each block.

All seam allowances are ¼". The block has a number ofinset seams so you must sew dot-to-dot at these inter-sections, leaving the seam allowances free. Press seamsto one side after sewing. Read the entire patternbefore beginning.

Step 1: Prepare Templates & Cut FabricCopy the pattern pieces on page 3 and 4 onto see-through template plastic. With a permanent marker,transfer all markings, including any dots and mirrorlines, as well as the dashed seam allowance, from thepatterns to the templates. After cutting patches, trans-fer all dots to the wrong side of the fabric patches.

Fabric 1: Working with one template at a time, andstarting with the largest, position them on the fabric.Shift the template until a motif is well-positioned with-in the dashed sewing lines and mark around it on thefabric. Mark the following number of patches: A-twenty-five, C-three, F-three, Fr-three, D-one, Dr-one,G-three, I-one, Ir-one. To make a reversed patch (Fr,Dr or Ir), flip the template upside over. Be sure to keepthe portion of the template marked Top oriented to thetop of the fabric image so it appears in the correctdirection when sewn.

When you have marked the required number of patches,cut them out.

Please note: These blocks have mostly bias edges sotake care to avoid stretching them. (Many quilters findit helpful to starch the fabric before cutting.)

Fabrics 2 & 3: From each fabric, use Template B to cut28 pieces from the WOF strips and Template H to cut4 pieces from the 27" strip.

Fabric 4: Cut five narrow stripes from the length of thefabric, cutting down the center of the solid tan sectionbetween the stripes to provide ¼-inch seam allowanceon both long sides. (Set aside the wide stripes foranother use.) Place Template J on the fabric, aligningthe mirror line on the template in the center of a mir-ror-image motif and the long dashed lines just insidethe narrow gold lines. Draw a portion of the design on

the template as in the diagram below, so you can findthe identical motif elsewhere on the stripe.

Fabric 7: Cut four wide and four narrow stripes fromthe length of fabric for the borders, cutting down thecenter of the solid red section between the stripes toprovide ¼-inch seam allowance on all long sides. Thepieces will be trimmed to fit at a later step.

Step 2: Construct the BlocksA BlocksPrepare the blocks as shown, right,sewing the green B/Br patches tothe square and ending the seamat the dots. (The Fabric 2patch is always sewn to theleft; the Fabric 3 patch to theright.) When you reach the dot,lock the stitches; do not sew past thedot into the seam allowance. Finish the block bysewing the short miter seam: match the short,unsewn raw edges of the green patches and sew fromthe dot to the outside edge. Make 25 blocks.

C BlocksSew a Fabric 2triangle to the leftside of the C patch,and a Fabric 3 triangle tothe right side. Make threeblocks.

Jinny Beyer’s Holiday Treasures quilt offers a peek at Christmas seasons of times gone by. The quilt featuresdozens of nostalgic vignettes from the collection’s toile fabric, including tree-trimming, sleigh riding and OldSaint Nick.

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Step 4: Make & Add BordersAdd the borders following the instructions for a squarequilt and applying multiple borders in Framing a Quiltthe Jinny Beyer Way.

Step 5: Finish the QuiltLayer the quilt as follows: backing (wrong side up),batting, quilt top (right side up). Baste the layerstogether, and quilt as desired.

When quilting is completed, trim backing and battingeven with quilt top edges.

Make binding strips using the reserved Fabric 5. Bindthe quilt using your favorite binding method or by fol-lowing the instructions in Binding a Quilt the JinnyBeyer Way at www.jinnybeyer.com/promos/binding.

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Fabr

ic5

Ir Block I Block

.

Step 3: Assemble the QuiltThe quilt is assembled in diagonal rows. A J-sashingpatch separates each block in a row, and each row ofblocks alternates with a row of sashing strips and Ksquares. (L triangles are used as partial cornerstones onthe outside edges of the quilt.) Arrange your pieces ona design surface, referring to the Block Placement Guideand Assembly Diagram, below and right.

Assembly Diagram

D DrC C CE E E E E E E EL L L L

A

B Br

Fr

Fr

Fr

Br

Br

Br

H H H H H H HIr IG G G

H

F

F

F

B

B

B

L

L

L

L

L

L

L

L

K

J

K

J

K

J

J

K

Block Placement Guide

Fr Block F Block

F BlocksSew a Fabric 3 Br strip to aFr (right-pointing) triangle.Repeat to make three blocks.Sew a Fabric 2 B strip to anF (left-pointing) triangle.Repeat to make three blocks.

G BlocksSew the block in the same fashion asthe A Blocks, using Fabric 2 andFabric 3 H patches and the Gtriangles. Make threeblocks.

I BlocksSew a Fabric 3 H patch to the Ir patch, and a Fabric 2H patch to the I patch. Make one block of each

B/B

r

A

Top

D/D

r

Top

C

Top

Template Size Check

This box should measure2 inches square.

If the box does not measure 2",your templates/foundations willnot be the correct size.

If you are printing at home, besure your printer is set to print at100% with “no scaling”.

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Template Size Check

This box should measure2 inches square.

If the box does not measure 2",your templates/foundations willnot be the correct size.

If you are printing at home, besure your printer is set to print at100% with “no scaling”.

I/Ir

Top

H

J

Mir

ror

Line

4

G

Top

F/Fr

Top

5©2011, Jinny Beyer

Pattern Written by Elaine Kelly

Yardage & Cutting Instructions

Suggested Backing:3½ yards of 0778-02

Fabric 1 2 yards 0775-01See pattern.

Fabric 2 1/3 yard 2266-6 (QP# 66)Cut four strips 19/16" x WOF and one strip 19/16" x 27"for B patches. Cut one square measuring 2¾" and cut onthe diagonal twice to make four E triangles.

Fabric 3 1/3 yard 0779-04Cut four strips 19/16" x WOF and one strip 19/16" x 27"for Br patches. Cut one square measuring 2¾" and cut onthe diagonal twice to make four E triangles.

Fabric 4 2½ yards 0777-02See pattern.

Fabric 5 ¾ yard 0779-01(includes binding)Reserve ½ yard for binding. K: Cut 24 squares measuring2". Cut 4 squares measuring 3¼" and cut twice on thediagonal to make 16 L triangles.

Fabric 6 ¼ yard 0779-02Cut four strips measuring 1¾" x WOF for the middleborder.

Fabric 7 2 yards 0777-01See pattern.

Diagram 2: Cut three pieces identical to the first.

©2010, Jinny Beyer

Adding Borders the Jinny Beyer Way

Diagram 1: Mark the miter.

Diagram 3: Correctly cut and sewn borderswill have designs that “flow” around the corners.

Jinny Beyer’s border prints are designed specifically with the quilter in mind. Each fabric has a wide and a narrow stripe whichcoordinate in both design and color. Both stripes have mirror-image motifs which are essential for perfectly mitered corners.In addition, the two different stripes in the border print are separated by at least a half-inch so that a 1/4" seam allowance isprovided for on both sides of the stripes. From selvage to selvage, there are always at least four repeats of each stripe across thefabric so calculating the yardage needed to border a quilt is easy: you need the length of the longest side of the quilt plus anadditional half-yard to match design elements and allow for the miters at the corners.

Framing a Square Quilt1. Place a strip of the border print across the middle of the quilt, centering amotif from the border at the exact center of the quilt. (Because of minordifferences in seam allowances taken and stretching that can occur on biasedges, opposite edges of a quilt often measure slightly differently. Using ameasurement taken from the middle of the quilt will help keep the quiltfrom “ruffling” at the edges.)

2. To mark the first miter, position a right-angle triangle so that one of thesides of the right angle runs along the bottom edge of the border print.Then carefully move the triangle until the angled side touches the pointwhere the top edge of the border print meets the edge of the quilt. (Seearrow in Diagram 1.) Mark, then cut the miter line. (Because the miter is cutright at the edge of the quilt, the seam allowance is already included.)

3. Carefully pick up the mitered side of the border strip and lay it on top of thestrip on the opposite side of the quilt, right-sides together, placing the top edgeof the strip at the edge of the quilt. If necessary, adjust the top strip so that thedesign motifs on the top and bottom match exactly. If you have centered a motiffrom the border print in the middle of the quilt, the designs should match at theedges. Cut the second miter. (Using the cut edge as a guide, rather than the tri-angle, ensures that your design motifs will be an exact match.)

4. Using this first mitered strip as a guide, cut three more identical pieces, makingsure that the design on the border print is exactly the same on all four pieces.

5. Mark seam intersection dots on the short side of each of your border strips. Tofind the spot, simply draw a short line 1/4-inch inside the mitered edge and theshort edge of the border strip. Mark the dot where the two lines intersect. Do thesame for each corner of your quilt.

6. To sew the borders to the quilt, pin the mid-point of one of the border piecesto the middle of one of the edges of the quilt. Next, match and pin the dots oneach side of your border with the dots on the quilt corners. Continue pinning theborder to the quilt, easing in any fullness. (The edge of the quilt is usually a littlewider than the center because of bias edges or seams.) Sew the border to the quilt,starting and stopping at the dots. Sew the mitered seams last, starting from theinside dot. When pinning the edges together, be sure to match the design ele-ments on both pieces.

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Diagram 4: Find andmark the center of the quilton the border strip.

Framing a Rectangular QuiltWith rectangles, you cannot always be assured that the designs willautomatically match at the corners so you must take an extra step.

1. First, follow steps 1-3 above and cut two identical strips for theshort ends of the quilt. The pieces for the other two sides of thequilt must be cut differently: for the corners on all pieces tomatch, there must be a seam in these long pieces at the exactcenter of the quilt.

2. Place one of the cut strips on top of a length of the bor-der print stripe, matching the fabric designs. Cut one miterto match the miter on the top strip. Set the top strip aside. Lay thenewly cut strip on top of the quilt through the center, aligning onemitered edge with the edge of the quilt. Mark the center of the quilton the strip as in Diagram 4. Move the strip from the quilt and cut itoff ¼" beyond the center mark. Using this cut strip as a guide, cut

one more piece identical toit.

You also need two strips thatare the exact mirror imagesof these pieces. Using one ofthe strips you just cut, flip it over and lay iton a strip of border print, matching the fab-ric design exactly. (The two strips will be rightsides together.) Cut the miter and straight edges to match the top piece. Using thenewly cut strip as a guide, cut one more piece.

3. Sew the seams at the middle of two mirror-imaged strips and attach these bordersto the quilt as in Steps 5 and 6 in Framing a Square Quilt. Sewing the borders to arectangular quilt in this manner assures that the corners will match. There will be aseam at the center of the long strips (Diagram 5), but the design at that center willmirror-image as well, allowing the design to flow around the quilt.

Applying Multiple BordersJinny often designs quilts to make full use of the border prints. First, shewill frame the quilt with the narrow border stripe, then add a coordinatingfabric as a second border. The quilt is finished off with the wide stripe fromthe border print.

Jinny personally measures and adds each border separately. However, whenthe middle border is a fabric that doesn’t have to be matched at the corners,she recommends the following method as being a little faster: Sew the sec-ond border to the first and then measure and cut them as a single border inthe steps above. Measure, cut and sew the third border separately after thefirst two borders have been completed and sewn to the quilt.

Binding the Quilt: When Jinny uses a border print to frame a quilt, she typi-cally sews the binding to the back of the quilt and turns it to the front. Thisallows her to carefully hand-stitch the binding along a straight line printed onthe border print fabric. For details, see www.jinnybeyer.com/binding.

Diagram 5: The long borders on rectangularquilts have center seams.

Diagram 6: Applying multiple borders

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Adding Borders the Jinny Beyer Way ©2010, Jinny Beyer2