HOME ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS This Papillionaire Bicycle now belongs to you. It will take you to work, wait patiently outside your local cafe, and carry your groceries home. This is the start of your long-term adventure together, so be sure to enjoy the assembly process … create an open

space, turn up your party playlist and get to know your new travel companion!

1. Building your new Papillionaire bicycle

While the following manual provides detailed instructions on how to properly assemble and maintain your new bike,

if you feel unsure about any aspect of the process we strongly recommend that you obtain the experience of a skilled

bicycle mechanic to ensure the safety of the rider.

If you decide to assemble the bicycle unassisted, we advise that you follow these instructions carefully. Of course, our

friendly staff will be happy to provide any further clarification over the phone or email if you run into any speed

bumps along the way!

2. Identifying your bicycle

Papillionaire proudly offers a range of bicycle models, and while they share much of the same DNA, each requires

slight variation in the carrying out of their assembly and ongoing maintenance. Consequently, it is important to first

familiarise yourself with the bike you have purchased before diving into the build!

For the purpose of assembly and maintenance, the main source of difference arises from the particular gearing system

used on the bike:

• 3 speed internal hub

• 8 speed internal hub

• 16 Speed gearing with front and rear derailleurs

Specific instructions that recognise these differences will be clearly marked throughout this manual.

Common bicycle terms

Please refer to this diagram if you are unsure what part is being referred to during the assembly steps. While your

bicycle may have a different style frame and gearing system, the labelling will be analogous.

3. Assembly preparation

3.1 What you will find in the box

• Bicycle - complete with frame, wheels, stem, handlebars and fenders (where applicable)

• Saddle and seat post

• Set of pedals

• Set of handlebar grips

• Rear carrier (if ordered)

• Front reflector (white), rear reflector (red)

• Bell

• Toolkit

• Bottle of touch-up paint

3.2 Additional tools required

While a basic toolkit is provided with the bike, the following additional tools will be required:

• Allen keys (3, 4, 5 & 6mm)

Note: when using allen keys, ensure that the key is set firmly in the bolt head before turning to

prevent the bolt from stripping.

• Wrenches (10, 13 & 15mm). Torque wrench is recommended

• Phillips and flathead screwdrivers

• Scissors

• Bicycle tyre pump

• General-purpose bicycle grease

3.3 Unwrapping and preparing your bicycle

We know you’ll be anxious to get riding, but as fun as it may seem to jump on the box and go for a spin, we assure

you that the bicycle inside offers a much more pleasant riding experience. So first things first, open the box with the

logo and “Papillionaire Bicycles” facing up. After carefully lifting out the bike and accessories, lay the box on its side

and rest the bike on top with the chain and chainguard facing outwards.

Be sure to take stock of everything in the box (with reference to the list above) and lay the disassembled parts out in a

convenient place. Our bicycles come partially assembled and wrapped in protective plastic and foam. Take care not

to scratch the paint if you are using scissors or a knife to remove these protective coverings.

Once removed, attach your bicycle to a stand. If you do not have one, place the bike upright on flat ground

(preferably somewhere firm yet forgiving, so rule out any gritty pavement! Astroturf anyone?).

4. Assembly

The following contains a list of instructions needed to get your new bike up and running! While this guide provides a

description of the steps, we suggest also following the assembly video guide on the Papillionaire website found under

ASSEMBLY > INSTRUCTIONS

Torque force specifications

The torque force specification table located in the ‘maintenance’ section of this manual contains the torque

requirements to be observed during the initial assembly of your bicycle. In order to adhere to these requirements, a

torque wrench should be used.

4.1 Attaching the front fender

1. Rotate the bicycle fork so that the front brake calliper faces forward.

2. On the rear of the fork you will find the nut that fastens the brake calliper to the fork. Using a 5mm allen key,

unscrew this nut and place it to the side (it will be needed to reattach the calliper).

3. Remove the brake calliper from its hole in the fork, making sure not to lose the washer while sliding the

calliper out. Place the front fender in place by aligning the eyelet located on the top of the fender with the

hole in the front of the fork. Feed the brake calliper through the fender eyelet and back into its original hole.

Reinstall the calliper nut in the rear of the fork and tighten using the 5mm allen key.

4. Using a 4mm allen key, remove the two small silver bolts in the eyelets located at each fork end and put

them to the side. You will notice that the now attached front fender has a thin silver bar protruding at its base.

Align the loop at the end of one side of the bar with the corresponding hole from which you just removed the

silver bolt. Replace and tighten the bolt. Repeat for this process to the other side. The loops at the end of the

bar are elongated to allow for slight adjustment if your mudguard needs alignment.

4.2 Completing the rear fender

1. The process for completing the rear fender is the same as above.

2. You will notice that there are two sets of bolts where the ends of the silver bar should be attached to the

frame. When attaching the fender, make sure to use the bolts closest to the rear of the frame. The other set of

bolts are used to fasten the optional rear carrier.

4.3 Attaching the front wheel

1. Unscrew and remove both wheel nut and lock washer from each side of the front wheel.

2. Slot the front wheel into the fork dropouts, making sure that the wheel axle is correctly positioned in the fork

so that it sits flush in the dropouts.

Note: you may have to let out some air in the tyres in order to squeeze the wheel past the brake

calliper.

3. Fit the washers back onto the axle, rotating them to the correct angle so that the protruding locking pin slots

into the matching holes in the fork ends near the dropouts.

4. After you are sure the wheel is correctly centred in the forks, reattach the nuts to the wheel axle and fasten

tightly using a 15mm spanner. To ensure the wheel remains aligned correctly, it is best to alternate between

the nuts when tightening, rather than fastening one side all of the way before moving to the other.

Torque requirements: It is critical that the wheels be fastened securely to prevent them coming loose

when riding. Please refer to the torque force specifications table for the front and rear wheel nut

measurements.

5. The bicycle can now be supported on its own using the kickstand.

4.3 Attaching the stem and handlebars

1. You will note that the handlebars come loosely attached to the stem.

2. Generously grease the inside of the head tube where the stem is to be inserted.

3. Slide the stem into the head tube making sure to insert it at least to the marking on the stem that denotes the

maximum safe height. Before fastening the stem to your desired height, double check that the stem is rotated

so that it is aligned with the front of the fork (brake calliper facing forwards).

4. Grasping the front wheel between your knees to keep the fork and stem angle aligned and steady, tighten

the stem in place using the bolt at the top of the stem with a 6mm allen key. Once tightened, the stem should

not have any play, and only rotate in conjunction with the forks.

Torque requirements: be sure to observe the ‘Head stem expander bolt’ measurement in the torque

force specifications table.

4.4 Adjusting the handlebars

1. Using the 6mm allen key, loosen the bolt at the underside of the head of the stem to allow the handlebars to

rotate freely.

2. Rotate the handlebars to the desired angle and retighten the bolt using the 6mm allen key, making sure that

the ridges and grooves in the middle of the bars are covered by the head of the stem. Tighten firmly so that

there is no play or forward/backward rotational movement in the bars whatsoever.

Torque requirements: be sure to observe the ‘Handlebar clamp nut’ measurement in the torque force

specifications table.

4.5 Correcting the brakes

Before proceeding with the following brake corrections, ensure that both brake levers are facing forward at a

comfortable angle. Any necessary angle adjustments can be done using a 5mm allen key on the mounting bolt

located on the underside of the lever.

The following steps are identical for both the front and rear brakes for the purpose of connecting the cables, adjusting

the brake pads and adjusting the brake cable tension.

Note: For the purposes of maintenance, brake pad adjustment and cable tension should be checked and

corrected routinely. To do so, repeat the steps below.

4.5.1 Attaching the brake cables

1. You will notice that the brake cables come unattached from the brake levers. The cable for the rear brake

connects to the left lever, and the front brake cable connects to the right lever.

2. Where the cable attaches to the brake calliper itself you will notice a black quick release lever. Flip this lever

into the upward position to disengage the brakes and allow for more slack on the brake cable.

3. Squeeze the brake lever on the handlebars completely to reveal the eyelet where the cable is to attach.

While still squeezing the lever, insert the lug at the end of the now-slack brake cable into this eyelet before

threading the silver inner cable through the cut-out at the front of the brake lever, and around to its final

seating position.

4. Once the brake cable has been connected to the lever, reengage the brakes by flipping the plastic lever on

the brake calliper into the downward position. You can now test the brakes by pulling the lever, which should

in turn pull the brake cable and clamp the calliper.

4.5.2 Adjusting the brake pads

1. Lightly apply the brakes so that the pads just touch the rim of the wheel.

2. While the brakes are in this position, loosen the screws attaching the brake pads to the calliper with a 4mm

allen key.

3. Align the brake pads so that they run snugly parallel along the wheel rim without touching the tyre. Once

aligned, re-tighten both screws.

4.5.3 Adjusting the brake cable tension

1. Using a 5mm allen key, loosen (but do not remove) the screw which holds the brake cable to the calliper

(attached to the side of the lever assembly that disengages the brakes) so that the cable can move freely

independently from the calliper.

2. With your hands, squeeze the calliper so that the brake pads touch the rim of the wheel and hold it in place.

While still squeezing the calliper, pull the end of the brake cable down until it is as taught as possible.

Retighten the screw firmly to hold the cable in this position.

3. Once the cable has been adjusted and appropriately tightened onto the calliper, give the brake leaver a

few big squeezes to stretch the cable slightly and provide more clearance between the brake pads and the

wheel rim.

4. Repeat these steps for the other brake.

4.6 Attaching the saddle and seat post

Depending on the specification of the bike ordered, your saddle and seat post will either come pre-assembled, or will

be located in a separate box within the larger bicycle box.

4.6.1 Assembling the saddle and attaching it to the post (if required)

1. Rest the saddle face-down. Take the seat post and twist the top bracket so that it will slot between the rails

on the underside of the saddle. You may have to loosen the bolt on the underside of the seat post with a

6mm allen key if the top bracket will not rotate freely. Be sure to have the bolt on the underside of the seat

post facing towards the rear of the saddle.

2. Once the seat post is at the desired position on the rails of the saddle, flip the top bracket so that now both

top and bottom brackets on the seat post can clamp to the saddle rails. Fasten the bolt with a 6mm allen

key.

4.6.1 Attaching the seat post/saddle to the frame & correcting saddle angle

1. Apply a liberal amount of grease to the seat tube opening where the seat post will be inserted.

2. Slide the saddle into the frame at your desired seat height

Note: please see the ‘preparing your bicycle for riding’ section below for instructions on how to

determine the correct saddle height

3. Using a 13mm wrench, fasten the seat post to the frame by tightening the seat post bolt located at the top of

the seat tube where the seat post is inserted into the frame. Make sure to fasten the seat post firmly so as not

to allow the saddle to lower or rotate while riding, but do not over tighten.

1. Saddle angle is largely a matter of preference, however the saddle should run virtually parallel to the top

tube with only slight positive or negative angle as comfort requires. To adjust the angle of the saddle,

unfasten the bolt on the underside of the seat post with a 6mm allen key until the seat post brackets

connected to the saddle are loose enough to allow for adjustment. Tighten firmly when the right angle is

achieved.

4.7 Attaching the pedals

1. Apply a small amount of grease to the pedal axle threads

2. At the end of each pedal axle will be either the letter “R” or “L”. The pedal marked “R” must be fitted to the

right hand side of the bicycle (the side with the chain), and the pedal marked “L” must be fitted to the left.

This is critical, as the pedals are threaded differently and will not attach properly to the incorrect side.

3. Using your hands, screw the right (“R”) pedal into the right crank in the regular clockwise direction until it

threads onto the crank. Using a 15mm wrench, fasten the pedal securely so that it sits flush and tight against

the crank arm.

4. Repeat this process with the left (“L”) pedal and left crank; HOWEVER, this pedal is threaded to screw in

anti-clockwise.

4.8 Attaching the grips

Depending on how you customised your Papillionaire bicycle, it will either come with standard or premium grips.

Warning: Handlebar hand grips or end plugs should be replaced if damaged, as bare tube ends have

been known to cause injury. It is especially important that you regularly check bicycles ridden by children.

4.8.1 Standard grips

1. Spray a liberal amount of lubricating agent into the hole in the grips (we find hairspray works the best), as

well as on the ends of the bars ready to receive the grips.

2. The shorter of the two grips is to be fitted on the right-hand side with the grip shifter.

3. Slide the grips onto the handlebars using a twisting motion. If you find the grips get stuck into position before

they reach the end of the bars, a mallet may be used to get them the rest of the way.

4.8.2 Premium grips

1. Keeping in mind that the shorter of the two grips is to be installed on the right-hand side with the grips shifter,

insert the grips onto the handlebars with the bolts facing forward.

2. Using a 3mm allen key, tighten the bolts securely.

3. Insert the black end-caps to the ends of the bars. A mallet may be used to delicately hammer the plugs flush

against the grips.

4.8 Attaching the optional rear carrier

1. The rear carrier is to be attached to the four mounting bosses located on the rear dropouts and at the top of

the seat stays of the frame. Using a 4mm allen key, unscrew these four bolts and put them to the side.

2. Hold the rear carrier in place so that the holes on the carrier are aligned with the mounting bosses on the

frame.

3. Replace the bolts. We suggest loosely screwing all four bolts and then adjusting the carrier into the correct

position before tightening them fully using the 4mm allen key.

4.9 Adjustments and finishing touches

4.9.1 Fitting accessories

1. The bell can be installed somewhere within easy reach of the handlebars using a Philips head screwdriver

2. The wheel reflectors should be installed on the spokes opposite the inner tube valve. Once in position, fasten

the reflector using a Flathead screwdriver

4.9.2 Pumping the tyres

1. As each bicycle pump differs slightly in its operation, familiarise yourself with the instructions of your particular

pump.

2. We recommend inflating your tyres to 60 PSI (413.7 kPa). Do not inflate past 80 PSI (551.6 kPa).

4.9.3 Adjusting the gears on an internal hub

In the small box containing the accessories (grips, bell, wheel reflectors, touch-up paint and toolkit) you will find a

comprehensive guide published by Shimano regarding the adjustment of both their 3 speed and 8 speed hubs.

Follow the steps in this manual to get your gearing system set up correctly.

If the process remains unclear, refer to the assembly video guide on the Papillionaire website found under ASSEMBLY

> INSTRUCTIONS

Routinely check that your gears are adjusted to ensure their longevity and avoid gear slippage.

4.9.4 Adjusting the gears on a cassette and derailleur gearing system (Remi models only)

Adjusting the gearing on our Remi range of bicycles requires that attention be given to both the front and rear

derailleurs. As the adjustment of these derailleurs can seem like a fairly intricate process for first-timers, a detailed

user’s manual published by Shimano will be included with your bicycle, and further video instruction can be found on

the Papillionaire website under ASSEMBLY > INSTRUCTIONS.

5. Preparing your bicycle for riding

Now that your bike is properly assembled, you’re almost ready to hit the road! But before joining the peloton, please

complete these final checks to make sure that your bike is properly configured to suit you.

5.1 Fitting your bicycle – frame sizing and saddle height adjustment

1. As a basic rule of thumb, while flat-footed, you should be able to stand over the top tube of your bicycle with

no less than an inch of leeway while flat-footed

2. To ride comfortably and get maximum efficiency out of your pedalling, it is important to get your saddle

adjusted to the correct height and angle. Your leg length determines the correct height of your saddle. The

saddle will be at the correct height when, while seated on the saddle, your knee is only slightly bent (leg

almost straight) when the pedal is at the bottom of its rotation (closest point to the ground). To adjust the

saddle height, loosen the seat binder bolt and slide the seat post up or down as required. Be aware of the

maximum height marking on the seat post; do not secure below this line. Tighten the bolt securely when the

correct height is achieved.

5.2 Final Checks

1. Test the brakes are functioning properly before every ride. To do so, gently apply pressure to both the front

and rear brake levers. You should see and feel the brake pads clamp onto the wheel rims firmly, preventing

the wheels from spinning. If this is not the case, the pads may be misaligned and/or the cable tension may

not be adjusted properly.

2. Check the chain is not to taught or slack. See the following maintenance section for more information.

3. Ensure the wheels are aligned and the tyres are properly inflated within the range indicated on the tyre (you

should be able to depress the tyre slightly when pushing down with your thumb). Gives the wheels a spin to

make sure they rotate freely, smoothly and devoid of wobble without rubbing against the frame or brake

pads. See the following maintenance section for more information on wheel and tyre care.

4. When clicking the grip shift back and forward, the gears on your internal hub should switch smoothly. If they

snag or slip, your gears will need to be adjusted via the barrel adjustor/cable adjustor nut.

5. Ensure that your lights and wheel reflectors are working and correctly aligned, and that your bell rings

audibly.

Warning: If you are unable to make any appropriate corrections yourself (with reference to the following

maintenance section), we strongly advise you to take the bicycle to a qualified mechanic.

6. Use and general safety guidelines

6.1 Basic bike and road safety

• Always obey your local road rules

• Do not ride while under the influence of drugs or alcohol to ensure the safety of yourself and those around

you

• Always wear a helmet that adheres to your local safety standards

• Be aware of other road and path users, looking out for cars, pedestrians and other bike riders. Ride

predictably.

• Adapt your riding style to suit current conditions

• Wear appropriate clothing. Flowing or baggy garments run the risk of getting snagged in any moving parts.

6.2 Wet weather riding

• Wet and/or foggy weather affects the visibility of all road and path users – always keep this in mind when

riding in adverse weather conditions.

• It is much harder for you and other road users to stop suddenly in the wet due to slippery wheel rims and

road surfaces. Compensate for this by allowing more distance between yourself and those in front of you

6.3 Night and low light riding

To increase your visibility to others in low light conditions, observe the following:

• Make sure all reflectors are attached and facing the right way – including wheel, pedal, front and rear

reflectors.

• Front (white) and rear (red) lights are required by law in most countries

• Wear bright, reflective clothing.

7. Ongoing Maintenance

To guarantee that your bicycle continues to operate safely and at peak performance, it must be kept clean, lubricated

and routinely serviced (every 6 months or so). How much of this servicing and maintenance you can do yourself will

depend on your level of skill and experience, and whether you have access to the required tools.

If you have any doubts about your ability to complete the following tasks, we recommend that you seek the

assistance of a properly skilled bicycle mechanic.

7.1 Torque force specifications

Carefully observe the following table containing the required torque force specifications for the nominated parts of

your bicycle. To assist in achieving the correct tension when tightening nuts and bolts the use of a torque wrench is

recommended.

7.2 Initial break-in period

Most bicycles require a brief ‘break-in’ period before being ridden hard. This is much more of an issue for precision

racing or mountain bikes, however we still recommend taking things easier at first. Expect the chain, brake and gear

cables to stretch over the first few months of riding, and provide the minor adjustments as necessary.

7.3 Cleaning

Mud, dust and dirt can be highly abrasive and detrimental to the operation of your bicycle - regularly cleaning your

bike will help stave off such ill effects. Remember to always dry and re-lubricate your bicycle after washing to prevent

rust and allow for the smooth operation of any moving parts.

7.4 Lubrication

Lubrication will prevent rust and reduce the friction on moving parts. Accordingly, keeping your bicycle well lubricated

will ensure that it remains in good shape.

All bearings and other moving parts require regular lubrication (check every month or two):

Front Wheel Nut 22-27 Newton Metres

Rear Wheel Nut 24-29 Newton Metres

Seat Binder Nut 12-17 Newton Metres

Seat Pillar Clamp Nut 15-19 Newton Metres

Brake Anchor Nut 7-11 Newton Metres

Handlebar Clamp Nut 17-19 Newton Metres

Handlebar Stem Expander Bolt 17-19 Newton Metres

Crank Cotter Pin Nuts 9-14 Newton Metres

Brake Centre Bolt 2-17 Newton Metres

• Grease-based lubricants: Bearings in headset, wheels, bottom bracket and pedals (all will require

disassembly to complete)

• Oil-based lubricants: Brake and derailleur pivot points and jockey wheel, chain, freewheel.

7.5 Tyres and tubes

• Routinely inspect treads for wear and cracking

• Remove any debris from tyres

• Routinely check tyre pressure is correct

7.6 Wheels & Wheel hubs

• Check your rims to ensure that they are true (straight) and that your spokes are evenly tensioned

• Clean the braking surface on the rim

• Immediately replace any dented or broken spokes

• Check front and rear hub bearings for excess play or binding. Re-lubricate when necessary.

• Ensure that wheel axle bolts are tight.

7.7 Chain

• Routinely lubricate the chain with chain lubricant

• Check chain tension for either over-tautness or excess slack. Ideally, there should be only minimal up and

down movement (no more than 0.5cm). To adjust chain tension, loosen the two rear wheel nuts and pull the

rear wheel back to reduce the slack in the chain before re-tightening the wheel nuts. Make sure that the

wheel is centred correctly in the dropouts/frame before tightening all the way. You may find it easier if you

stuff a rag or old towel between the rear wheel and seat tube to keep the wheel in position as you make the

necessary adjustments.

7.8 Brakes

• Check brake pads for wear and replace if necessary

• Check the calliper and lever bolts are securely tightened

• Lubricate brake pivot bolts and adjust where necessary

7.9 Gear and brake cables

• Routinely check the cable housing for damage, and inner cable for kinks, fraying or excess stretch.

• If brakes or gear change feel soft or squishy, remove, clean and relubricate the inner cable.

• It is natural for the gear and brake cables to stretch with use. Regularly check that the brakes and gears are

adjusted using the barrel and/or cable anchor bolts to compensate for this cable stretch (refer to the

included Shimano hub instruction manual if you are unclear).

7.10 Front and rear derailleurs (Only relevant to Remi model Papillionaire bicycles)

• Clean derailleur cages and bushings.

• Check accuracy of the gear indexing, and adjust cable tension at the barrel adjustors and/or cable anchor

bolts as required.

7.11 Cranks and chainrings

• Check that the bolts attaching the crank arms to the bottom bracket spindle are tight

• Clean chainrings and check that they are true and have no excessively worn or broken teeth

7.12 Headset

• Check headset for excess play or movement and tighten locknut if necessary

7.13 Pedals

• If pedals are loose, retighten pedal axel to the crank arm securely

• Check pedal straps and toe clips are properly secured if fitted.

7.14 Bottom Bracket

• Test the bottom bracket for excess play or binding.

• Check locknut is tight

• Bottom bracket should remain correctly lubricated

7.15 General

• Inspect the frame for alignment and all of the tubes for dents, cracks or other damage

• Ensure that all nuts and bolts are secure