Hook and Hackle Club

Fly Tying for Beginners

INTRODUCTION TO FLY TYING.

1. Equipment: Over view of types of vices, tools and thread.

2. Use: How to use vice, tools, thread a bobbin, whip finish. ( homework – practise with

your whip finisher)

3. Types of materials, feathers, dubbing, beads, lead, marabou etc.

4. Hooks: Types of hooks, dry, streamer and nymph.

Equipment.

This section will deal with the equipment that you will use in tying flies. Let us start with the

vice. Without this tool we would find it very hard to tie flies. There are quite a few vices out

there by name brand but there are 2 basic types. One being the stationary and the other

being the rotary vice. The difference between the two is simple, the rotary vice allows the tier

to rotate his hook to help him add thread and materials, and also to see all sides of the fly

without having to turn the whole vice, which is the case with the stationary vice.

Tools:

There are a hand full of tools that benefit the tier but the bobbin, whip finisher, hackle pliers,

scissors, a hackle gauge and hair stacker are the basic tools you must have.

Bobbin: The bobbin holds your thread to allow you to dress your hook and tie on

materials it is essential that you have at least 3 to 4 bobbins this will allow you

to have a few different thread colors and types to use without having to switch

over all the time. Bobbins are inexpensive but again there are a number on the

market and price differs also.

Whip Finisher: The whip finisher allows the tier to finish his fly off. There are two types

of whip finishers, the English whip finisher and the Matarelli whip

finisher, choose the style you like and become proficient with it. You

can also use your fingers and hand whip finish but all three types do

need some practise.

Scissors: Scissors as you would think are not very important but the right type will allow

you to cut you materials very close to the hook with precision. It is important

that you buy good scissors they will last if looked after, and you will see that

sharp scissors make a big difference. One more thought, use a cheap pair to cut

your wire and other heavy materials, saving your good scissors with their fine

tip for precision cuts.

Hackle Pliers: Hackle pliers are a must have tool. They are small and have a very

strong grip to handle very thin materials. You will use your pliers to hold

on to hackles and other materials that would be hard to grasp using

your fingers to wrap around the hook. They also allow you to use them

as a weight to hold your materials tight when you tie them off.

Hackle Gauge: The hackle gauge is another tool that is a must, even the most seasoned

tier uses it. It is a small piece of plastic that has a small nib and a

number of sizes on it. You will take your hackle and wrap it around the

nib to see how long the fibres on your hackle are. This is important so

that you do not use hackle that is too large for your flies.

Hair Stacker: The hair stacker is used to make sure that any type of hair that you are

using comes out with tips evenly aligned for you to attach to your hook.

As you progress with your tying you will be introduced to other available tools that you must

have to complement your tying.

MATERIALS

Materials - without them they are not flies, just a hook.

Thread is the first material we add to the hook. It comes in a number of sizes such as 3, 6, 8

these numbers represent the thickness of the thread.

Size 3 is thickest and is used primary for large streamer and nymphs up to a size 10 hook.

Size 6 is the intermediate size is used on hooks from size 10 to 16 but can be a little bulky on

the smaller hooks when trying to finish.

Size 8 is used for smaller hooks in the size 16 to 20 range.

Thread comes in a wide number of colors and you should have a good selection of red, black,

brown and olive in all sizes and again as you progress in your tying you will add other colors.

As you progress through your tying classes you will be using a variety of materials to dress

your hook. Feathers are a very popular material and come in a variety of sizes, colors and from

different birds. Along with that price is a big factor when it comes to quality. There are

Saddle and Neck feathers which come from different parts of the bird and they can be used

differently or can be used together. It is important to feel and see your feathers before buying

and as you progress in your tying skills you will learn what to buy and what not to.

Feathers come from a wide variety of birds such as Turkey, Pheasant, Peacock, Partridge,

Chicken, Goose and many more.

Tips... Rooster Cape or Rooster Saddle?

Things to first consider. First, what sizes are you planning to tie? With a good rooster capeyou can tie sizes 6 to 26. Rooster saddles on the other hand have a very narrow size range,usually just two or three. The feathers are long and narrow and you can easily tie six orseven flies of the same size from just one feather.

Dry flies need good strong tails and dry fly capes have great tailing fibers along the edgesof the cape. These are the feathers that would be on the throat of the rooster. They arecalled spade hackle and have the strongest fibers, feathers needed to protect the throatfrom the sharp spurs of other roosters.

So if you're just getting started, I recommend capes. Once you settle in on your favoriteflies to fish, buy dry fly saddles or look for more economical “100 packs” in those sizesand colors you like to use.

The types of cape which you will come across are cock and hen capes from domestic poultry.

Hen capes are smaller and softer with denser fibers, and are usually used for wet flies,nymphs and lures. The hackle fibers are more mobile in the water. They can be wrappedaround the hook in the conventional way or bearded, sometimes referred to as a false hackle.

Cock capes are larger and the hackles much stiffer and shiny. Occasionally you will comeacross a cock cape which is softer and duller, usually a lower grade cape, these are known ashenny capes. These are very useful for lures or palmered patterns which need to be longerand give some kick to the lure. Cock capes are used mainly for dry flies, the stiffer fibers make

the fly float better and are wound round the hook more times. Matching fibers can be usedfor the tail of the fly.

The standard capes are usually available in a wide range of natural and dyed colors. They aregraded, number one being the best, and most expensive. These are not necessary until youbecome proficient, (and have a big fat wallet). Lower grades catch just as many fish. Most ofthese capes are now imported from India and China.

There are ranges of capes which are from poultry specially bred in the United Kingdom, justfor their feathers. The range of Metz capes is probably the best known. These have nice longhackles and are great to work with but are expensive. They are used mainly for dry flies. Youshould get more than one fly per hackle.

Hackles for North Country spider patterns are usually from wild birds, many of which are nowmore difficult to obtain. Partridge hackles, brown and grey, are probably the best known anddye well. Others to look out for are woodcock, snipe, moorhen, cock and hen pheasants. Ifyou know any hunters ask for their help as many of them fish as well. If they do a lot ofwildfowling, (shooting ducks and geese) they could help to get you CDC, teal flank and bronzemallard flank, all very useful. This range in itself would be an interesting lesson to puttogether.

Once you start collecting fly tying materials no walk along the river, or lakeside will ever bethe same again. You will find yourself gathering feathers and anything else which ‘just mightbe useful’. On a recent trip my colleague could not believe I was collecting sheep’s wool offthe barbed wire. Now that it has been washed in detergent in boiling water it will be dyed.

Dubbing is a staple fly tying material used in almost every fly you can think of. Dubbing has

come a long way and now includes innovative blends of natural and synthetic materials that

provide many option to the fly tier. Choose from natural dubbing including rabbit fur, possum

dubbing, squirrel dubbing, beaver dubbing and goat or synthetic dubbing including antron

dubbing, super fine dub, holographic dubbing, ice dubbing and many combinations of material

blends to meet any fly tying need.

Beads are also a staple of fly tying and add weight and color to your hook. They come in are

kinds of sizes for all the hooks you may have. In addition to beads adding weight you can also

use lead. Lead comes in different weights which will allow you to add the right size to help you

sink your fly for the right water conditions. There is lead and lead free and you must be aware

of fishing regulations in which certain waters will not allow any type of lead to be used on

your flies

Hooks

Introduction

Welcome to the world of fly tying. This is a great hobby - I know, I have been tying flies forover 30 years. Fly fishing is my passion and fly tying takes it to the next level.

This booklet has been created as an addition to the clubs “Introduction to Fly Tying”booklet. It contains a lot of good information, but I thought it was time we updated it.

The Beginner Fly Tying Course that I’ll be teaching consists of 7 flies, although the bookletcontains 8 flies. I’ll be teaching the following patterns:

Woolly Bugger

Marabou Leech

Beadhead Prince Nymph

Pheasant Tail Nymph

Chernobyl Ant

CDC and Elk

Parachute Blue Winged Olive Mayfly

There is also a bonus fly in the booklet - the Mohair Leech. Once you tie a Marabou Leech, youwill have no problem with this fly.

These flies are what anglers are using in local waters, both rivers and lakes, to catchmany species of fish such as trout, whitefish, pike and Arctic grayling.

I have listed the materials for each fly in the order in which they are tied onto the hook. Goodpatterns are written in this way to make it easier for you, the fly tier. You will note that I havenot listed the thread size or color - for beginners I recommend black 6/0 thread. When you getto tying smaller flies, those that are size 16 or smaller, an 8/0 thread is better. For now, let’sstart with 6/0 as it is a good starting point.

Also, because of the wide variety of hooks available today, I have attached a hookcomparison chart. For example, some of the fly patterns list a Tiemco 5210. This will meannothing to you until you use the Hook Comparison Chart to understand that this is astandard dry fly hook. If you prefer to use the less expensive Mustad hooks, you can simplydo so by choosing the Mustad 94840 hook.

A special thanks goes out to Court Mackid. He photographed the flies presented in thisbooklet. Anyway, enough said ---- let’s start tying.

Dennis Killips 2005

Fly (1) - Woolly Bugger

Hook: #2 to #12 3XL (three extra long) nymph or streamer hook. (Demo size #6)

Tail: Black marabou

Body: Black chenille

Hackle: Black saddle hackle

Comments: Also good in white, brown or olive. Add a bead or a cone. Or add a few strands offlashabou or crystal flash to give it extra appeal.

1. Lay a base of thread covering the hook shank.

2. Tie in marabou above the hook barb. The tail should be the length of the hook shank.

3. Tie in chenille above the hook barb.

4. Measure the hackle barbs to be 11/2 to 2 times the hook gap. Tie in hackle by thetip, with the shiny side forward, above the barb.

5. Wrap chenille forward to 1 hook eye distance behind the hook eye and tie off.

6. Wrap the hackle in 4 to 6 open spirals, evenly spaced (palmered), to hook eye and tie off.

7. Wrap a thread head and tie off.

Fly (2) - Marabou Leech

Hook: #2 to #12 3XL (three extra long) nymph or streamer hook. (Demo size #6)Underbody: Lead wire, the same diameter as the hook shank. (Demo .025 inch)

Tail: Brown marabou

Body: Brown Chenille

Wing: Brown marabou

Comments: Also good in black or olive. Add a bead or a cone.

1. Wrap lead beginning at hook point to 2 eye lengths behind hook eye.

2. Lay a base of thread covering the hook shank and the lead wraps.

3. Tie in marabou above the hook barb. The tail should be the length of the hook shank.

4. Tie in chenille above the hook barb.

5. Wrap chenille forward to 1/3 of the shank.

6. Tie in a first wing of marabou, % the length of the tail.

7. Wrap chenille forward to 2/3 of the shank.

8. Tie in a second wing of marabou, % the length of the tail.

9. Wrap chenille forward to a point 1 hook eye behind the eye.

10. Tie in third wing of marabou, the length of the tail, and tie off.

11. Wrap a thread head and tie off.

Fly (2 bonus) - Mohair Leech

Hook: #2 to #12 3XL (three extra long) nymph or streamer hook.

Underbody: Lead wire, the same diameter as the hook shank.

Tail: Brown and black marabou

Body: Brown mohair yarn

Comments: Also good in black and olive. Add a bead or a cone.

1. Wrap lead beginning at hook point to 2 eye lengths behind hook eye.

2. Lay a base of thread covering the hook shank and the lead wraps.

3. Tie in marabou above the hook barb. The tail should be the length of the hook shank.

4. Tie in mohair yarn above the hook barb.

5. Wrap mohair yarn forward to a point 1 hook eye behind the eye and tie off.

6. Wrap a thread head and tie off.

7. Use a bodkin or dubbing teaser to comb out the mohair.

Fly (3) - Bead Head Prince Nymph

Hook: #8 to 16, 2XL (Demo size #12)

Bead: Gold bead.

Tail: Brown goose biots

Rib: Oval gold tinsel (I prefer gold or copper wire).

Body: 4 to 6 strands of peacock herl.

Hackle: Brown soft hackle.

Wing: White goose biots.

Comments: This is a great fly, with or without the bead.

1. Pinch down the barb of the hook and slide the bead on the hook (small hole toward theeye).

2. Wrap base of thread back to the barb and add 3 or 4 wraps to create a thread ball.

3. Tie in brown goose biots, about the length of the hook gap. Tied on opposite sides toflare out to form a “V”.

4. Tie in gold wire.

5. Tie in 4 strands of peacock herl.

6. Wrap the peacock herl around the thread 6 to 8 times to form a chenille. Wrap thepeacock chenille forward to just behind the bead and tie off.

7. Counter wind rib forward in 4 to 5 equally spaced spirals to behind the bead and tie off.

8. Tie in hackle by the butt just behind the bead. Wrap 3 to 4 wraps and tie off.

9. Tie in white goose biots on top to form a “V” (see photo). Tie thread off.

Fly (4) - Pheasant Tail Nymph

Hook: #12 to 18, (Demo size #14)

Tail: Pheasant tail

Rib: Copper wire.

Body: Pheasant tail.

Thorax: Peacock herl.

Wingcase and Legs: Pheasant tail.

Comments: This is another great nymph, with or without a bead.

1. Wrap base of thread back to the barb.

2. Tie in pheasant tail, about the length of the hook gap.

3. Tie in copper wire.

4. Tie in 6 strands of pheasant tail.

5. Wrap the pheasant tail forward to 2/3 point and tie off.

6. Counter wind rib forward in 4 to 5 equally spaced spirals to the 2/3 point and tie off.

7. Tie in 12 pheasant tail barbs by the butt in front of the body. The length should be justless than the tail.

8. Tie in peacock herl, wrap around thread and wrap forward to 1 hook eye behind the eye.

9. Fold wing case forward, tie in with 3 t0 4 thread wraps, fold back 3 or 4 fibers on eachside to form the legs. Form head and tie off.

Fly (5) - Chernobyl Ant

Hook: #6 to 12, 2XL or 3XL. (Demo size # 8)

Thread: Red 6/0

Tail: None.

Body: Thread wraps with an overbody of black foam.

Legs: White round rubber.

Indicator: Yellow poly yarn or foam.

Comments: This fly is hard to see so an indicator is necessary.

1. Cut foam to size – width of hook gap and 2.5 times the hook length. Cut a blunt “V” atthe butt end.

2. Wrap base of thread back to the hook point. Make sure the thread completely coversthe hook.

3. Position the foam over the hook shank so it extends 1/3 of the hook length over thehook point.

4. Place and hold the foam on top and tie down at hook point with multiple wraps of threadto lock foam in place.

5. Tie in one set of legs on one side (V locked). Similarly tie in the other set of legs on theother side.

6. Lift the front of the foam out of the way and wrap the thread forward to 3/4 point.

7. Extend foam forward and tie down with multiple wraps.

8. Tie in front legs on one side (V locked). Similarly tie in the other set of legs on the otherside.

9. Tie in indicator on top of front legs with 3 wraps of thread.

10. Lift front of foam and tie thread off.

11. Cut foam to length and shape.

12. Cut legs and indicator to proper length. Legs better longer than too short.

Fly (6) - CDC & Elk

Hook: # 12 to 16 standard dry fly (Demo size #14)

Tail: None

Body: 1 natural dun CDC feather

Hackle: None

Wing and Head: Elk hair (originator, Hans Weilenmann, now prefers deer hair)

Comments: A simple and very effective Caddis imitation for both emerger and adult stages.Body colours vary from grey to olive to tan. DO NOT USE FLY FLOATANT ON THIS FLY.

1. Wrap base of thread back to the barb.

2. Tie in CDC feather by the tip and wrap forward to 4/5 position. Tie off.

3. Stack elk hair and tie in on top using several wraps of thread, progressively tightening thewraps. Length extends beyond hook bend.

4. Lift butts of elk hair and tie off thread behind eye.

5. Trim elk butts even with the front of the hook.

Fly (7) - Parachute Blue Winged Olive Mayfly

Hook: #10 to 24, standard dry fly (Demo size #14)

Tail: Dun hackle fibers or microfibettes

Post: Grey poly yarn

Body: Olive dubbing

Hackle: Dun

Comments: Other common body colors are grey and pale morning dun.

1. Wrap base of thread back to the barb.

2. Tie in hackle fibers, length of the hook.

3. Bring thread to 3/4 position and tie in post.

4. Stand post vertical and wrap the base of the post with thread.

5. Take thread to base of tail and dub in the body to the post. Dubbing is twisted tightlyonto the thread (sparsely).

6. Tie in hackle on the opposite side of the hook, just in front of the post.

7. Add light dubbing to the thread and wind on behind the post and in front of the postto complete the body. Leave room to tie on a head (1 hook eye width).

8. Using hackle pliers, wind the hackle counter clockwise up the post thread wrap and backdown, leaving the hackle pliers over the hook and hanging on the back side of the eye.

9. Tie off the thread by lifting the hackle fibers on the post up with the left hand, and tyingthe stem onto the shank just behind the eye.

10. Holding the parachute hackle up, wrap head and tie off.

Knots