How to Bind a Basic Book Block on Bands

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    BookbindingHow to bind a basic book block

    Written by Lady Isabell Winter 2009 How to bind a basic book block Page 1 of 18

    (Hollow Back, curved spine)Written by Lady Isabell Winter, 2009

    1. Collect your materials together, boards, covering, paste, paint brush, book press, book

    plow, laying press, backing boards, backing hammer, scalpel, pencil, straight edge(both metal and non metal if using leather), template you used for sewing the bookblock, awl, bone folder, butchers paper or newsprint, hard surface, stiff paper,scissors.

    2. Select your covering material

    3. If you have access to a book plow (or modern guillotine) cut the edges of the bookblock straight.

    4. If wanting to make a curved spine book, put your book block in between backingboards in a laying press.

    Laying press

    Book block

    Backing boards

    5. Using a backing hammer, gently tap over the 1st and last thirds of the spine. Thepurpose of this is to create a shoulder that the boards can sit in and helps act as ahinge. Noteif you want a flat spine, you do not need to hammer the spine, but as thewidth of the book increased a curved spine will become increasing important.

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    End view of the book block after hammering

    Overview of the laying press and backing boards.

    A close up of book plow that when turned other way up runs along frame in layingpress.

    6. Get your boards, cut to size.

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    7. Measure off approx 1cm from the edge (this will be the entry point of your bands), andrule a line. Mark the top or put an arrow on for direction, label the boards top andbottom (this is important if there are slight differences in your book).

    8. Take your template that you used during sewing the book block and mark where thebands will line up.

    9. Make holes using an awl in your boards on your marked points. Other options if youdont have an awl is a leather punch or similar. If using wooden boards then you willneed to drill these holes.

    10. Thread your bands thru the holes in the board.

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    12. Paste down the teased out threads of the bands.

    13. After you have double checked your protection sheet is in place, slowly close thecover and line up with the book block for its final position. Repeat on both fount and

    back boards.

    14. Make a template for your covering material, this will help you cut the correct sizewithout wastage, and will allow you to find the best positioning if a patterned fabric, orleather with grain.

    15. Select the measurement that you want the covering to overturn, inch is a classic

    amount, but this can vary depending on the size of the book. Take your dividers andmeasure to your selected measurement.

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    16. Use your dividers to mark off in stiff paper the edges in your template. Draw theselines on (make sure you have added your turn in on all sides).

    17. Lay the book down in the bottom corner, mark top mark and add turn over amount.

    18. Roll book over on its spine to get other sides edge.

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    19. Cut your template to size marked.

    20. Lay your template on your covering material to check sizing.

    21. If using a patterned fabric or leather a good tip is to cut out the centre of yourtemplate, this allows you to position you covering as you want it to sit on the book.This way you can avoid blemishes or holes, or put the spine thru the centre of thebook or what ever way you want to cover the book.

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    22. Mark on the covering material using pencil and a straight edge (dont use metal onleather as it will mark), tailors chalk can work instead of a pencil if using fabric.

    23. Cover the spine of your book block with buckram, linen or cotton. This gives a bitmore protection to the spine, particularly if you are doing a hollow back, it givesstrength to the pages to help keep them pasted together.

    24. Cut your covering fabric to the size of your template.

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    25. Ensure your protection sheets are in the book again and lay down on your template todouble check your template.

    26. Paste down the covering and the board. Allow to relax and paste again. Then lay theboard on the covering.

    27. Repeat for both sides (but not the spine if wanting a hollow back)

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    28. Put in the book press overnight to dry. You dont need a lot of weight, just needs to beenough to keep it in place.

    29. The next day you will be ready to finish pasting down your covering.

    30. Using something to prop up the cover of the book (edge of hard surface), this will helpkeep it flat and make it easier to work on the cover.

    31. Take your straight edge and scalpel and cut a triangle off the corner of your surfacecovering. Be careful to leave 1 times the width of the board over the corner point ofthe book however, this will give a better turn in on the corners. Repeat on each of thefour corners.

    32. If you want at this point to you do a bit of trimming on your covering material, but youwill tidy up more once pasted down.

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    33. Put down butchers paper or newsprint, while pasting to prevent unwanted transferonto your covering and to help keep things clean.

    34. Paste down one end, smoothing the covering down towards the spine as you go.

    35. Then paste down the top and bottom long edges.

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    36. This can be a bit tricky so have your bone folder on hand to help push the coveringdown along the spine edge. Putting the book on end can help in some cases.

    37. Push the covering down along the spine and then work it back ever so slightly if youare wanting to form a head cap.

    38. Your corners now need to be tidied while the paste has contact. Once again usingyour bone folder smooth over the corner from the fount surface to the inner board,dont worry if you have over lap, this can be sorted using a scalpel to tidy, almostsmoosh down the corner and work the covering into the centre of the inner board.

    39. When finished they should look rounded and tidier.

    40. Dont worry about the straightness of the covering on the inner board at this stage asyou will tidy it after it has dried.

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    41. Insert your protection paper again and put in the press lightly to dry.

    42. When dry remove from the press and now tidy up the edges of your covering on theinner boards. Use a scalpel and straight edge to cut.

    43. This will then leave you with nice straight edges inside the covers, which will make iteasier to make an insert to fill in the difference between the covering and endpaper.

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    44. Make an insert. Here you can use the center from your template which you used forthe covering material. Notethat depending on the thickness of your covering material,you may need several inserts. If working with leather and you have a paring knife andhave been able to use this well, it will reduce the need for inserts.

    45. Note which way up you insert has been made to fit (as it is custom made, it may fitbetter one way than another.

    46. Paste up the insert ready to add to your book.

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    47. Paste the insert into your cover.

    48. Add your protections sheets again and put in press to dry.

    49. Once dry you can now paste down your end page

    50. Put down the butchers paper again and paste out your end page. Using a board toraise the level of your cover can be useful.

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    51. Once your end page is pasted, do not just pull over to the board. Bring the board overto the end page. As the end page is pasted the paper will relax and can stretch. Ifyou were to pull it over, you would stretch the paper and could tear it.

    52. Make sure you have your protections sheets handy again to put behind the end page(to prevent the moisture transferring out that side of the end paper.

    53. Repeat on both covers.

    54. Put the book into the press now for the final time to dry.

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    55. When you remove the book do not open harshly from the first board, put on its spineand open slowly front and back at the same time working towards the centre. This isto reduce the risk of breaking the paste on the spine and allows it to work intoshape/use.

    56. The basic book is now finished. If you want to embellish the cover by foil or gold leafthat is another work in itself.

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    Showing the curved spine

    Note: A gap was left around the book block itself and the cover (around the edge) to allowair flow on the shelf, this is why the book block itself does not sit on the shelf,otherwise condensation can build up between the shelf and book and the book willthen wick the moisture and warp.

    Tip: Once completed you can highlight the bands by rubbing beside them with a bonefolder.