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Heber City Planning Commission

Meeting date: March 24, 2016

Report by: Anthony L. Kohler

Re: Agricultural Fencing

Recently the City Council discussed deer in the city. The Council has elected to not adopt a

program for reducing the deer herd in the city, and has asked the Planning Commission to

investigate the possibility of allowing agricultural fences to keep deer out of gardens.

Below is information from 3 websites regarding deer fences. I was unable to find examples of

agriculture fence ordinances, but have shown an underlined/strikeout version of Heber City’s

fence ordinance that would permit an 8 foot agricultural fence. The purpose of this agenda item

is to get feedback from the Planning Commission for an intended course of action.

How to Install a Deer-Proof Fence Around Your Yard or Garden

Source: http://www.todayshomeowner.com/how-to-install-a-deer-proof-fence-for-your-yard-or-

garden/

By: Julie Day

Deer fencing protecting newly planted grapes.

Deer can be a real problem in a yard or garden. If deer are still eating your plants despite using

deer repellents and switching to deer-resistant plants, you may want to consider installing a

deer-proof fence to keep them out.

Deer fencing isn’t suitable for every yard, and be sure to check local building codes and

neighborhood covenants before installing any fence. Fencing for deer doesn’t have to be

extremely expensive or unsightly, however, and there are a number of types of fencing and

methods of installation that can work.

Here are the basics on how to add a deer fence in your yard.

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A privacy fence is the most effective type of deer fence.

How to Build a Deer Fence The most common effective designs for a deer fence are:

o Tall Fence: An 8’ high fence is considered pretty much deer-proof and is tall

enough to prevent even a frightened deer from jumping it. The fence is even more

effective if deer can’t see through it.

o Slanted Fence: A 6’ high fence can be effective if it’s slanted outward (toward the

deer) at about a 45° angle. Deer will hesitate to jump over it due to both the height

and distance.

Double Fence: Two fences spaced a few feet apart, regardless of height, can also work. The

deer won’t like being caught between the fences, so they will avoid attempting the jump.

You can also do this with two rows of electric fencing set about 3’ apart.

Electric Fence: If you’re able to maintain it, an electric fence can be a great deer barrier.

Even a strand or two of electrified wire can keep deer away, as long as it’s always turned

on. Start with one strand of electrified wire about 30” off the ground. If deer are still getting

in, add strands about a foot above and below the first one. Monitor the garden, and continue

adding strands about a foot apart until the fence is effective against the deer. Electric

fencing is less visible and easy to move when working in the garden. Keep in mind, though,

that it’s customary to bait the deer to lick the wire in order to teach them to stay away,

which may be seen as cruel.

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Modified Fence: If your garden already has a shorter fence that isn’t working, try

modifying it by adding an extension to every second or third pole with mesh or strands of

wire stretched between them. This will add height without changing the look of your

original fence. Another option is to add a second fence near your existing fence.

Deer Fence Materials

Mesh fencing for deer.

Privacy fencing: If appropriate and affordable, an 8’ tall privacy fence is probably the most

effective choice. Deer won’t jump it since they can’t see what’s on the other side.

Mesh fencing: For larger areas, use 8’ mesh stretched between tall metal fence posts. To

keep the mesh from sagging, run a taut wire at the top of the posts, and attach it to the mesh

to support it. Mesh can also be attached to trees at the edge of the woods for a less

noticeable appearance. Mesh fencing comes in a variety of materials, including metal wire

(most durable and most expensive), polyethylene-coated metal (expensive, but more

attractive), and polypropylene (least expensive, less durable, but less visible).

Deer Fence Tips

Mesh fencing is almost invisible.

Complete Enclosure: A fence only works if it completely encloses your garden! Blocking

only the deer paths will just prompt them to learn new ways in. Make sure gates are secure

and as tall as the fence.

Landing Zone: For added deterrents, add obstacles just inside the fence to make the deer

reluctant to land there.

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Fence ordinance in Boonton could help with deer control

Source: http://www.newjerseyhills.com/the_citizen/news/fence-ordinance-in-boonton-could-help-with-deer-control/article_904c0246-e657-11e1-81c7-0019bb2963f4.html

Aug 14, 2012

BOONTON TWP. - The Township Committee raised the bar and correspondingly the height of fences, in dealing with deer control in the township.

A swift Township Committee meeting on Monday, Aug. 13 finalized an ordinance allowing residents to erect six-foot fences to keep deer away from homes. The previous ordinance only allows for fences with a maximum height of four feet, Township Administrator Barbara Shepard said after Monday’s meeting.

According to the ordinance, permits for deer fencing may even stand up to eight feet tall. The structures may be installed in the rear, side and front yards, though in the front yard, the fence can’t be less than 50 feet from the front street sideline.

Permits for fencing specific for deer control can be purchased from the Construction Official for a fee of $50.

A separate ordinance that was unanimously passed by the Township Committee revisited the types of prohibited fences in the township. Types of prohibited fences under the amended ordinance include barbed wire, razor wire, low-visibility wire, piano wire and fences with imbedded glass or sharp metal points.

Electric fences have also been banned, unless they follow the regulations set by the National Electric Code and all state regulations.

Deer-Proof Electric Fence Source: http://www.finegardening.com/deer-proof-electric-fence

Just a bit shocking, this simple fence can keep deer from devouring your vegetables

by Paul D. Curtis

Kitchen Gardener issue 28

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A single strand of electrified polytape will keep deer out of the garden without harming you or your

children.

Your garden looks beautiful. The beans, lettuce, carrots, tomatoes, and flowers are all growing well,

and you're enjoying the results of your diligent care. Then one morning you discover some tomatoes

are missing and several bean plants have been nipped. The culprit has left tell-tale ragged edges on

the plants, and most of the missing shoots are more than 2 feet above ground. Tracks in the soft

garden soil make it clear that white-tailed deer were responsible.

As a specialist in managing wildlife damage, I've seen a lot of plant losses caused by these four-

legged vegetarians. The deer population in North America is higher than ever; some biologists

speculate that whitetail numbers exceed 20 million nationwide. The impact of deer on vegetable

gardens and landscape plants is particularly severe in suburban areas where there is some woodland

habitat and not enough deer-hunting to keep numbers down.

In many cases, deer damage to home gardens during the summer can be prevented with a simple

electric fence. An electric fence is not a complete physical barrier; instead, it produces an electric

shock that conditions animals to avoid the fence. To a deer, an electric fence is an unfamiliar object.

A deer investigating the fence for the first time may touch it with its nose. If the deer receives a

sufficient shock on this first encounter, it usually stays clear of the fence afterward.

IMPROVING THE EFFECTIVENESS OF AN ELECTRIC FENCE

With an electric fence, current is supplied by a high-voltage charger, which provides regularly timed

pulses—55 to 65 per minute—followed by approximately one second with no current flow. These

short-duration, high-energy pulses provide sufficient voltage (greater than 4,000 volts) to keep deer

away from the fence.

There are two ways to improve the effectiveness of an electrified fence. Combining the fence with

attractants or lures encourages deer to touch the fence with their noses or mouths, enhancing the

aversive conditioning. One tactic is to attach aluminum flags to an electrified wire, and to coat the

flags with peanut butter. Another approach is to use electrified ribbon, known as polytape, and to

treat the entire length with a peanut butter and oil mixture. Deer are more likely to see the high-

visibility polytape tape at night, reducing the chance that they will walk into a wire and break it.

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An electric fence works better in combination with deer repellent. With the electricity off, tie cloth

strips to the polytape...

...and spray the strips with repellent.

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The other way to improve the effectiveness of an electric fence is to take the opposite approach and

attempt to repel the deer. Field experiments conducted by Dr. Milo Richmond, with the New York

Cooperative Fish and Wildlife Research Unit, showed that commercial deer repellents can increase

the efficacy of electric fences. In the experiments, cloth strips were sprayed with an odor-based deer

repellent (i.e., Deer Away or Deer Stopper) and spaced every 3 to 4 feet on an electric fence. These

repellent-treated fences were more effective than electric fences with aluminum tabs treated with

peanut butter as an attractant, or electric fences without attractants or repellents. I prefer to use the

double negative conditioning of an aversive odor combined with an electric shock. Also, spraying

cloth strips with repellent is far less messy than using a peanut butter and oil mixture.

MATERIALS AND COSTS ARE MODEST

Installation of an electric fence around a small, 50- by 50-foot home garden should cost less than

$200. The materials can be reused for 10 or more years, so the long-term cost will be around $20 per

year. A basic list of fence supplies includes about 75 yards of polytape or electric wire; about two

dozen 4-foot fiberglass support rods and the same number of plastic insulators; and a high-voltage

(greater than 4,000 volts) fence charger, along with a copper rod for grounding the system. It's also

helpful to purchase a digital voltage meter to test the fence and ensure it is working properly. A meter

costs $15 to $20.

For a simple electric fence, you'll need (clockwise from left): a fence charger (this battery-powered

model has a solar panel for recharging), a copper grounding rod, and a voltage meter; polytape

(shown with a hammer and pliers) or electric wire; and 4-foot fiberglass fence rods with plastic

insulators.

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About half the cost of this system will be devoted to the fence charger. If an electric outlet is readily

available, you can use an AC-operated fence charger, which will provide continuous current and

eliminate the need for battery recharging. If an outlet is not close by, you can operate a fence charger

with a deep-cycle marine battery, recharged either by solar panels or by a standard battery charger.

Purchasing a marine battery will add $50 or more to the roughly $200 cost of our hypothetical

fencing system. I have used a fence charger with a self-contained, rechargeable battery and solar

panel for more than 10 years.

Before installing an electric fence, check with town officials to make sure there are no zoning

ordinances or local regulations that would prohibit its use in your community. Some municipalities

do not allow homeowners to install electric fences because of safety concerns. If you decide to

protect your garden with electric fencing, put up warning signs. Pets or children who accidentally

come in contact with the fence will receive an unpleasant shock, but no permanent injury.

INSTALLATION IS EASY, WITH THE POWER TURNED OFF

Here's the procedure for installing the fence: First, drive four corner rods about one foot deep into the

soil around the periphery of the garden. Then drive in the remaining support rods at 8- to 12-foot

intervals to keep the wire taut. Slip an insulator over each post at 30 inches above ground level.

Stretch the polytape around the four corner posts and thread the strand through the insulators. Pull on

the polytape to hand-tighten it, and tie the ends to an insulator with a square knot to keep the strand

taut. If you want to exclude woodchucks, rabbits, and raccoons as well as deer, add insulators and a

lower wire at 6 inches above ground.

Position the fence charger on a wooden post or a building near the fence and hook a bare wire from

the polytape to the charger to activate the fence. Install adequate ground rods for the charger,

following the manufacturer's recommendations.

Finally, you'll want to test the line voltage with a digital voltage meter to verify that the current

produced meets the manufacturer's specifications. Although a non-digital voltage tester will verify

that a charge is being produced, it will not tell you whether the fence is operating at full voltage. It is

worth investing an extra $10 or so to purchase a digital meter.

INSTALLING THE ELECTRIC FENCE

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Space the fiberglass rods 8 to 12 feet apart around the garden's perimeter, driving them a foot into the

ground.

Position a plastic insulator on each rod 30 inches above the ground, then run polytape through the

insulators. Once you've strung the polytape, pull the strand taut and secure the end to an insulator

with a square knot.

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Place the charger close to the fence gate and hook a bare wire from the end of the polytape to the

charger.

Hammer in adequate grounding rods, following the manufacturer's recommendations. Finally, to

make sure the polytape is carrying a full charge, test the line with a voltage meter.

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The fence should be left on 24 hours a day, as deer often forage at night. It should cost less than $1

per day to run an AC-powered fence charger; there is no additional expense for solar-powered units.

With the fence charger turned off, you're ready to add either a repellent or an attractant. To repel

deer, attach cloth strips to the polytape at 4-foot intervals. Spray the cloth strips once a month with a

deer repellent that contains putrescent eggs as the active ingredient.

To attract deer, use aluminum-foil tabs. Smear a dab of peanut butter on the inside of the tab, and

hold the tab in place with a staple. You can also treat the entire length of polytape with a peanut

butter mixture. For this, a small paint roller will help. Mix vegetable oil and peanut butter in a tray to

form a sticky liquid, then dip the roller and apply it to the fence. One treatment with peanut butter

should last the entire summer.

You'll further enhance the effectiveness of any electric fence system by installing it before the first

sign of wildlife damage. It's much easier to keep critters from penetrating a fence if they don't know

there is great food inside. If you've experienced plant losses in the past, install the electric fence early

in the growing season, before damage is anticipated. With proper fence installation and maintenance,

you should be able to enjoy deer-free gardening.

Read more: http://www.finegardening.com/deer-proof-electric-fence#ixzz4359iSpGD

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Section 18.68.120 Heights of Fences and Walls

A. Fences and Walls in Residential Zones. No fence or wall shall be constructed to a height

greater than four (4) feet in any front yard. Any fence or wall along a side yard or rear yard shall

be not be constructed to a height greater than six (6) feet. However, a fence along a side or a rear

property line of a residential lot, which side or rear property line borders a non-residential zone,

may be constructed to the height allowed in the non-residential zone. The "thirty foot" setback

may be reduced to the front wall line for legally non-conforming homes which are closer than

thirty feet to the street right-of-way line.

1. New subdivisions must have Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions for

the subdivision approved by the City through the subdivision process and recorded with the

subdivision plat, addressing standardized fence height, materials, and color for fences

constructed within the subdivision.

B. Fences and Walls in Non-Residential Zones. No fence or wall shall be constructed

to a height of greater than eight (8) feet in any non-residential zone.

C. The provisions of 18.68.150 shall apply to all fences on all corner lots.

D. Outdoor swimming pools shall be completely enclosed by a six (6) foot tall fence.

E. All private fences, regardless of fence height or property zoning classification,

shall be constructed upon private property and not within the street right-of-way.

F. No fence shall be constructed near any driveway which would interfere with the

visibility triangle required in Section 18.68.155.

G. Fences and walls may be extended to eight (8) feet in height with the top two (2)

feet constructed of barb-wire in the following institutional use areas: around culinary wells and

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springs, pump houses, airport, sewer facilities and electrical transmission and telecommunication

facilities. When institutional fences are adjacent to residential zones, residential fences

immediately adjacent to an institutional fence may be extended to eight (8) feet in height.

However, no part of an institutional fence may hang over a residential lot

H. Any fence constructed on top of or along a retaining wall, which is legitimately

retaining, shall have their regulated height measured from the highest point of the top of the

retaining wall. However, any fence constructed within a driveway visibility triangle or street

visibility triangle as regulated by Section 18.68.155 and 18.68.150 shall not exceed the height

limits for those respective code sections, with such height measured along street grade for street

visibility triangles and driveway grade for driveway visibility triangles.

I. All fences constructed prior to May 19, 2011, which conform to Sections 18.68.155

and 18.68.150, shall be considered legal.

J. Seasonal agricultural fencing constructed of wire, mesh or chain link materials may be

erected to a height of 8 feet in any rear yard surrounding a garden.