How to succeed as a trainee judge

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© Andrew Burt 2006 – Please do not reproduce in whole or part without permission

HOW TO SUCCEED AS A TRAINEE JUDGE

ANDREW BURT

FEBRUARY 2010

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CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION BEFORE YOU START AS A JUDGE STANDARDS AND EXTENSIONS LECTURES SUITABLE ATTIRE YOUR RING JUDGING DOGS CRITIQUES PREPARING FOR YOUR TEST YOUR TEST SUPPORTING THE SYSTEM – YOUR CONTRIBUTION

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1. INTRODUCTION This is by no means meant to be a bible, but merely a few basic starting points and suggestions from someone who has been in the judging system for a number of years. Experience will certainly improve your confidence, and the more you judge the better you should become at it, both in terms of handling exhibits and judging classes. My suggestions are just that, and often you will find ways to enhance what I have said, modify my ideas to suit you, and in many cases find other advice that works better for you! As a starting point, I hope that having decided to aspire to become a fully licensed judge, you aspire to:

Judging dogs in a professional, confident and fair manner

Judging with the highest personal qualities including honesty, fairness, consideration for the exhibitor and exhibit

Being able to conduct your ring in an appropriate manner that befits a judge

Being able to handle and go over exhibits in a way that demonstrates good technique and understanding of the breed

Being able to sort out exhibits in a breed according to their adherence to the breed standard, with particular reference to type, balance and soundness in that order

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2. BEFORE YOU START AS A JUDGE Below are a list of possible things to do, and to think about, before entering the system, or soon after doing so.

Are you aware of the ANKC Judges’ Code of Practice and Conduct http://www.ankc.aust.com/code_of_ethics.html#1

Are you aware of the ANKC Judges’ Regulations? http://www.ankc.aust.com/regspart2.html

Are you fully conversant with the VCA Judges’ Scheme list of Judging Competencies? (see following page)

Are you basically familiar with the VCA Constitution, Rules and Regulations, as they are relevant to you? www.vca.org.au/Content.asp?ID=137

Have you revised and have a reasonable working knowledge of basic dog anatomy?

Have you prepared a diary, and a way of organising your judging records? It is really important that you don’t double book appointments, or forget appointments, or book them too close together.

Organisation and accuracy are essential, and the correct method and set up from the start is the way to go.

I have a book that contains every appointment I have adjudicated at since the start of my judging career. It now contains a page for each year, and the relevant judging appointments are listed thereon

Where and how will you keep your judging contracts?

Do you have a copy of the Glossary of Terms?

Have you read your standards? Are they up to date? (see ANKC website for most up to date standards on each breed) http://www.ankc.aust.com/breed_list.html

Have you attended any lectures?

Have you watched judges carefully, considering ‘good practice’ in the ring?

http://www.ankc.aust.com/code_of_ethics.html#1

http://www.ankc.aust.com/regspart2.html

http://www.vca.org.au/Content.asp?ID=137

http://www.ankc.aust.com/breed_list.html

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Are you talking to exhibitors and breeders in the relevant group?

Do you look for opportunities to begin learning about your breeds?

Have you thought about what you need in your judging bag?

Have you devised a way to keep handouts, supplements, standards and your notes in an ordered way?

Have you set up a folder for judging with an organised system on your computer?

Do you have a digital camera?

Have you thought about mentors, or others outside your lectures, who you would ask for advice and throw ideas around with?

Are you willing to be part of a team? Often this works extremely well for trainees?

Have you read, either by borrowing, or buying, some of the classic books which will enhance your ability to judge and assess breeds? These may include:

Dog Steps by Rachel Page Elloitt (Video as well)

Solving the Mysteries of Breed Type by Richard Beauchamp

An Eye for a Dog by Robert W. Cole

Canine Terminology by Harry Spira

Tricks of the Trade: From Best Intentions to Best in Show, Revised Edition by Pat Hastings

Born to Win .. Breed to Success Patricia Craige

K9 Structure and Terminology by Gilbert and Brown

Dog Locomotion and Gait Analysis by Curtis Brown

The Essential Guide to Judging Dogs by Andrew Brace

These are some of the most important texts, and will stand you in good stead, but there are many other titles you can add to this! The VCA Library is full of useful references, especially breed specific ones.

http://www.amazon.com/Tricks-Trade-Best-Intentions-Revised/dp/0967841437/ref=pd_ecc_rvi_3/002-0335465-4260841

http://www.amazon.com/Tricks-Trade-Best-Intentions-Revised/dp/0967841437/ref=pd_ecc_rvi_3/002-0335465-4260841

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VCA JUDGING SCHEME – JUDGING COMPETENCIES A competent judge will be able to: 1. Demonstrate an understanding that the breed standard for each breed

underpins all dog judging 2. Demonstrate an ability to interpret a breed standard 3. Display a high level of knowledge of canine terminology 4. Demonstrate an ability to talk in dog terminology 5. Demonstrate an understanding of anatomical construction relevant to

each breed 6. Demonstrate an understanding of anatomical construction peculiar to

certain breeds in a specific group 7. Demonstrate an ability to relate breed standards to breed function 8. Demonstrate an ability to correctly describe breed characteristics 9. Demonstrate an ability to recall, recognise and assess specific breed

characteristics from the breed standard e.g. height/weight/colour/coat 10. Demonstrate an ability to recognise correct breed type 11. Demonstrate consistent application and understanding of breed type 12. Demonstrate an ability to recognise quality 13. Demonstrate an ability to recognise size 14. Demonstrate an ability to explain proportions 15. Demonstrate an ability to explain how proportions relate to breed

function 16. Demonstrate an ability to evaluate correct balance for each breed 17. Demonstrate an ability to recognise balance as it relates to movement

for that breed 18. Approach a dog correctly and appropriately for that breed and

demonstrate an ability to properly handle a dog in a purposeful manner 19. Demonstrate an ability to assess all parts of the dog

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20. Mouth a dog correctly 21. Demonstrate a capability to read about dog breeds and an ability to

write critiques 22. Demonstrate an ability to be able to justify placings in judging a specific

breed and a group of different breeds 23. Demonstrate an ability to recognise and assess the differences

between breeds and/or exhibits 24. Demonstrate an ability to recognise and assess specific breed

movement 25. Demonstrate an ability to recognise correct coats, correct coat texture

and correct coat preparation 26. Demonstrate appropriate deportment, manners and ring skills 27. Demonstrate fairness and consistency in assessing each breed and/or

specimen 28. Demonstrate control, organisation and effective use of the judging ring 29. Demonstrate an ability to make decisions in an effective way and in an

efficient time frame 30. Demonstrate a practical knowledge of stewarding 31. Demonstrate an ability to understand and apply the regulations relevant

to dog judging

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3. BREED STANDARDS AND EXTENSIONS This information needs to be kept in an ordered way, so that it is accessible and useful.

Print out the latest breed standards

Regularly update these, and be aware of ANKC modifications to standards

Breed extensions often provide in depth, detailed information of immense value, often with pictorial content and diagrams that are excellent.

The VCA will be able to supply copies of relevant breed extensions, but I am not sure what cost is associated with this.

Collecting pictures and photos of good breed examples can enhance this set of documents

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ANKC LIST OF EXTENDED BREED STANDARDS (as of February 2008)

Please note, those marked with an “E” have been electronically processed, and I gather they are available under the breed standard section of the ANKC website, and others will gradually be uploaded.

Group 1- Toys Chihuahua Chinese Crested Dog (E) Italian Greyhound Maltese Tibetan Spaniel (E) Yorkshire Terrier (E)

Group 2- Terriers Airedale Terrier American Staffordshire Terrier (E) Australian Terrier Bull Terrier (and Miniature) (E) Cesky Terrier German Hunting Terrier (E) Jack Russell Terrier Sealyham Terrier

Group 3- Gundogs Clumber Spaniel (E) Cocker Spaniel (E) Cocker Spaniel (American) (E) Curly Coated Retriever (E) English Setter Golden Retriever (E) Hungarian Vizsla (E) Hungarian Wirehaired Vizsla (E) Italian Pointing Dog (E) Lagotta Romagnolo (E) Weimaraner & Long hair (E) Welsh Springer Spaniel

Group 4 – Hounds Afghan Hound (E) Basenji (E) Bassett Hound Norwegian Elkhound Pharaoh Hound

Rhodesian Ridgeback Saluki Whippet

Group 5-Working Dogs Australian Cattle Dog Australian Kelpie Australian Shepherd Bearded Collie Bergamasco Shepherd (E) Border Collie (E) Collie (rough and smooth) (E) German Shepherd Dog Maremma Sheepdog Shetland Sheepdog Swedish Valhund Welsh Corgi (Cardigan) Welsh Corgi (Pembroke) (E)

Group 6- Utility Bernese Mountain Dog Bullmastiff (E) Dobermann Kangal Dog Newfoundland (E) Portuguese Water Dog Rottweiler Samoyed (E) Spanish Mastiff (E)

Group7- Non Sporting Boston Terrier British Bulldog Chow Chow Dalmatian Great Dane Peruvian Hairless Dog (E)

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JUDGING APPOINTMENTS – ANDREW BURT YEAR ________________________________

DATE

SHOW & CONTACT

TYPE

GROUP

NO’S

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4. LECTURES In my view, breed lectures, on the whole, have been a most valuable learning tool. A good lecture can provide you with in depth information that is not always dealt with adequately in the standard. A bad lecture provides you with lots of questions, and things you need qualified, that you are then able to seek out and source information on at a later stage. Where hands on exhibits are present, this also provides a great opportunity to

see the breed itself

practice handling them

evaluate animals and make decisions regarding their placement and order of placement

ask questions of Group Leaders, Breed Lecturers, Breeders

make contact with breeders and exhibitors for future shows or kennel visits

Also, lectures are presented in many different ways, according to the person conducting the lecture, the person who organises the lecture, the wishes of the aspirants and trainees etc. However, ALL methods will provide you with gains in various areas, and any areas you feel you need more work in, you can address yourself in various ways. My words of advice for lectures …..

1. keep an ordered diary as to their dates 2. read the standards before hand, highlighting major points,

characteristics etc, and make a list of any questions you have

3. be on time, and participate actively in any discussions

4. be willing to make mistakes, and remember that mistakes are made in the most academic of classrooms, and can be one of the most important learning tools

5. approach lectures with an open mind … willing to learn, expand and

sometimes change your theories and ideas

6. listen carefully to all you hear, evaluate it for yourself, and take home what you believe will help you, and what you find important and agree with

7. thank all of those who have donated their time freely to enlighten you!

8. go home and finish your homework …. Write your breed summary, list

the important characteristics etc and file accordingly

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5. SUITABLE ATTIRE In my view, judges are professionals, and should look and act as such. This does not mean it is a beauty show! Judges should dress suitably, and some will ‘dress up’ more than others, just as happens elsewhere in society. The main thing to remember is that you need to dress practically and comfortably. Things to consider:

Location of the show

Indoors or outdoors

Breeds you will be judging

What surface will you be judging on

The weather…..

What type of event are you judging at I believe that preparing oneself, and thinking ahead, can make the appointment more enjoyable, or bearable … ! As such, I always travel prepared. My judging bag usually contains the following:

Wet weather clothes

Wet weather footwear

Hat

Sunscreen and sunglasses

Pen

Judging contract

Contact number for the club secretary and event location if possible

Breed standards

Digital Camera

Panadol

Squeaker

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6. YOUR RING As the judge, you are in charge of your ring. One is normally accommodating of the wishes of the hosts of the event, the physical set up of the ring in terms of ropes etc. and any photographic considerations in deciding how to organise the ring. However, once the above is ascertained, a ring should be organised for efficiency, providing the best chance for exhibitors to make the most of their exhibit, and the judge to work in a way that will use time effectively to be able to complete their assignment in a suitable manner and time frame. I always like to aim to

1. provide the spectators with a good view of ring proceedings

2. set my table where all exhibits will be examined, either in front of the table or on it

3. set my self up so that I get a reasonable view of the class moving to

the table (which may or may not include a lap of the ring first, sometimes depending upon the number in the class)

4. set my ring so that I can run an exhibit out and back before evaluating

their side gait. However, sometimes I alter this with baby puppies and use a triangle

5. Have my place numbers near the exit, with room for the next class to

already be assembled in the ring or assembly area

6. Allow myself room to be able to stand back and consider larger classes Other considerations may include:

slope of the ring

path of the sun

wishes of the stewards

condition of the surface you are judging on

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7. JUDGING DOGS In my opinion, you will judge best if you have reviewed the standards in the last 24 hours, and have an idea of the characteristics you consider to be important for the particular breed you are judging. While you aspire, and when you judge and exhibit in the future, you will gain a mountain of knowledge that will help you refine your skill. The main thing is that you keep learning and improving. I believe the best judges continue to do this for their entire judging career. It is those that believe they ‘know it all’ who sometimes do not refine their skills…. Along the way you should:

Observe those you admire and watch their techniques and methods

Even where you disagree, or find fault in techniques, decisions or methods, you can personally learn from these

Listen to feedback with an open mind

Seek feedback where appropriate

Discuss techniques, decisions and methods wherever possible

Approach every appointment with professionalism and conscientiousness

Be open to the possibility that you may have made a mistake, have done a better job, or that you might have done something better..

Overall, be conscientious, responsible, professional, honest and listen and observe ….

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In preparation for judging, as well as knowing your standards and breed characteristics, it is most important that you know how to generally assess an exhibit according to your physical examination, its quality relating to the breed standard, and its quality relating to other exhibits it is competing with. This is the art of judging, and comes with experience. This is where practical experience is essential and invaluable. Knowing how to go over a dog generally, and relating to particular breeds, is paramount. This includes mouthing exhibits. Some judges prefer to ask the handler to do it, and others do it themselves. However, we must all have the ablity to successfully mouth exhibits with the least stress and effort for ourselves, the handler, and most importantly the exhibit. This is something I cannot describe in such a document, and you need to seek information and practice this skill. It is also crucial that you look carefully at the mouth, as a quick glance may mean that you still miss a problem within the mouth, and often trainees, whether nervous or untrained, miss mouth problems that the testers would expect to be picked up. Ask yourself whether you can spot missing teeth, a wry mouth, or particular bad bites. Watch for exhibitors who mouth their own dogs and may try to hide something from you! Exhibitors have keen eyes, and are often unforgiving, therefore you need to make sure that your hands are really examining the dog, and not just ‘patting’. Make sure you check/test/feel for particular breed characteristics as well. Exhibitors also have the right to expect a judge’s full attention when their dog is moving and I am sure we have all seen instances when a judge is watching other rings or exhibits when an exhibit is moving for them …. try to prevent this occurring. Whether judging good or bad dogs, everyone has paid for your opinion and attention, and this is certainly worth remembering. There are many aspects of dog judging that are handled differently, and just as successfully by different judges, therefore it is up to the individual to decide their methods themselves.

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There are many more points you may consider under this topic, but in this document I am only covering the basics. Once you have evaluated the exhibits in a class, I have several points/tips for you to consider…

1. Make your decisions carefully, but be decisive and don’t take too long with them

2. Considering the above, you must also give the class the time it

deserves, and not rush decisions

3. Make your decisions before placing dogs, so that it is quick and easy and less embarrassing and attracts less attention to those unplaced, or those on the end of the line 3. Place your class by moving dogs forward into their places. I personally

try never to move a dog backwards in the line. This practice can be unnecessarily humiliating to an exhibitor

4. Personally, I like to shake everyone’s hand, and give ribbons myself.

This may, however, prove impossible with a very large entry and particular ring set ups. Congratulating or thanking exhibitors takes little time, but can mean a lot to them

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8. CRITIQUES Critiques come in many different forms, from a full written critique to a word to the exhibitor or answering questions after the completion of judging. Basically you will either be critiquing an individual dog, or providing a critique whereby you discuss your placements, or a combination of both. I always try to remember that my opinion is an individual one, decided on one performance in one day of the animal’s development. As such, I try not to predict and always emphasize that I am forming my judgement on that particular day. Opinions and critiques can be very enlightening and useful to exhibitors, just as they can be disappointing and hurtful. I believe, as professionals, we should be able to present our opinion in a positive way, and we should all think hard about we will this. With written critiques, my opinion is that they should be honest, constructive and where possible positive. There would be very few dogs that we judge that do not have some positive points that we can highlight. Very general and superficial critiques provide the exhibitors with very little information regarding their animal, and why decisions were made, and these generalist critiques should be avoided. As a judge, critiquing can be threatening and stressful at first, and in our present system, trainees are given many chances to critique animals and this should be considered a great opportunity – because in most cases the result will not be shared with owners. Use your Group Leaders, Mentors and Lecturers to refine your skills in this area before you are called upon to do the ‘real thing’. On the following page I have provided some sections of critiques that I have been called upon to write, and maybe these will provide you with some ideas, although most of you will have read countless critiques of varying types and style within your own chosen breed circles.

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BULLMASTIFF CLUB OF VICTORIA 33RD CHAMPIONSHIP SHOW

KCC Park, Sunday 1

st October 2006

INDIVIDUAL CRITIQUE OF EXHIBIT

NAME OF EXHIBIT XXXXXXXXXX

EXHIBIT NUMBER 30 WHELPED 28-1-2004

OWNER XXXXXXXXXXX

SIRE XXXXXXXXXXX

DAM XXXXXXXXXXX

BALANCE 2 years 8 months fawn male. Very good height to length ratio.

HEAD AND MOUTH Excellent headpiece. Good breadth of skull. Good depth of skull. Correct

length of muzzle. Correct eye shape and colour. Just undershot. I would like

to see a broader underjaw.

BODY AND TOPLINE Reasonable breadth of chest. A little more length of upper arm needed. A

little pinched in elbows. Good bone. Nice feet. Slightly east west. Excellent

spring of rib. Strong short loin. Reasonable hind angulation. Strong thighs. A

little steeper in croup than I like to see.

COAT & COLOUR Excellent colouring, both on body and with head markings, although orbits

could be slightly more defined.

MOVEMENT Pleasing heading away from me. A little restricted coming back towards me.

Pleasing side gait with the correct reach and drive.

OTHER COMMENTS

GRADING EXCELLENT

PLEASE NOTE: This is an individual critique given in the opinion of the Judge, based on the

qualities and performance of this exhibit today.

October 1, 2006 Judge ~ Mr. Andrew Burt

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The above critique was an example from the Bullmastiff Club of Victoria Champ Show in 2006. This show gained special permission from the VCA for each exhibit to be critiqued and graded. This is critiquing at its most detailed, similar to what might be expected in some parts of Europe. It is worth considering whether you are going to make written notes, for which a prepared template may be useful, or whether you are going to use a voice recording device to provide you with notes for your critique. Not many of us have a memory that would allow us to write a detailed critique on individual exhibits a day or two after the show. A digital camera is a great way of capturing the line up of place winners in each class during the show. Below is an excerpt from the more general critique written for the Club Newsletter after the show …. This is worth considering in terms of how one might write some general statements about the dogs judged, together with providing detail on placegetters. CHAMPIONSHIP SHOW CRITIQUE ANDREW BURT – OCTOBER 2006 Firstly, thankyou very much to the committee of the Bullmastiff Club of Victoria for the invitation to judge at this show. I have attended every one of the past Championship Shows since the first one, back in 1974, at the Dandenong Showgrounds, judged by the late David White of Queensland. It is 28 years since my New Zealand import, Ch Arabella of Arapeti won this show just a month after returning from Queensland, ten months after she was stolen and three weeks after she returned to Melbourne! Thus, as you will appreciate, this particular event holds many great memories for me. I would like to also thank my stewards, John Thompson and Annie Briglia, together with the ticket writer Debbie Parker and the VCA representative, Sue Emary. Particular thanks to Jessamy Morrissey for her outstanding effort as typist for the critiques … I am not sure she realised what a long and demanding job it would be! Hopefully my critiques were accepted in the manner they were given – an honest and constructive assessment of each exhibit. Of course each judge has their own perspectives, and interpretations of the breed standard, and critiques and gradings will vary accordingly. The only variations in placings to gradings occurred in situations where dogs, once critiqued and graded, failed to continue to move consistently, or in one case, improved their movement as the show progressed. In the case of several exhibits who were lame on the day, I was happy to provide a critique for them, but not a grading on this occasion. My general impressions …. well there have certainly been improvements. Generally heads were pretty good, with few very plain heads or long and snipey muzzles. Some exhibits could still improve in muzzle, and I was fairly harsh in penalizing muzzles that tapered considerably. There were some outstanding heads, which were mainly on the dogs. For me, in dogs, XXXXXXXXXX, XXXXXXXXXX and XXXXXXXXXX were the stand out heads, with excellent square skulls, full and broad muzzles, good rise of stop and generally correct eye shape. The bitches, although generally fairly good, lacked the ‘extra something’ of a great head. XXXXXXXXXXXXXX together with XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX were very good and from memory the most typical of the bitches’ heads. This is not a gender related issue, as in the past there have certainly

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been bitches with fantastic feminine heads that could hold their own with any male of the breed. Toplines still need some work, but the ‘hooped over the loin’ toplines, which are something I really dislike, were much less evident on the day. However, in saying that, there were far too many steep croups for my liking, and this is an area that I feel breeders need to watch in the future. The Bullmastiff tail should be set on fairly high, with only a very slight slope of croup (the part of the back from the front of the pelvis to the root of the tail). Mouths were generally quite good, but as usual some exhibits do need to have wider underjaws. I did spot a couple of wry mouths (type of mouth with some twist of the jaw so that upper and lower jaws are out of alignment). This is an area where breeders and exhibitors need to become more proficient in being able to detect the defect, mainly in terms of being able to correctly assess their breeding stock and make appropriate decisions as to whether to breed, and if so, what dogs and lines to breed to. The two areas that did concern me were in the front assembly: There were many exhibits with varying degrees of ‘east west’ feet. This problem, in examination, related to pinched elbows which result from a lack of breadth of the brisket area between the front legs, and thus generally to chest width overall. I was also concerned at the number of exhibits with short upper arms (this is the humerus bone which runs from the elbow to the point of shoulder, meeting the scapula). When the upper arm is short, this brings the front legs forward, rather than them being placed under the withers (the highest point of the shoulder blades and the point where the dog’s height is measured). This misplacement of the front legs means that exhibits have less fore chest than the ideal and the reach in front movement is somewhat restricted in many cases. In most cases, bone and feet were pleasing. Light eyes were in the minority, and masks were dark, orbits (dark colour around the eye) were good, and ears were darker than the overall body colour, providing the correct expression desired in the Bullmastiff. Overall, I was very pleased with the quality entry and my Challenge and Reserve Challenge winners were in my opinion excellent specimens. I would like to thank all exhibitors for the sportsmanlike way they accepted my decisions together with what appeared to be a positive acceptance of my critiques and gradings. I must say, that it was a rather exhausting day, but I thoroughly enjoyed myself and was very happy with my winners. I found some classes difficult, but tried to work the classes consistently, but as is always the case in judging, there were some decisions which I found easy and others where I had to weigh up positive and negative points and make a decision accordingly. I was aiming to find reasonable heads, good balance and substance, together with specimens with good reach, drive and construction and I felt that I was able to achieve this in my overall winners on the day. Thankyou for a great day, and below is my assessment of exhibits that placed on the day. Good luck to you all with your future exhibiting and breeding pursuits.

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OPEN BITCH These three bitches are quality bitches with some very good attributes. 1. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX 5 year old fawn bitch. Reasonable body proportions, slightly longer than high. This bitch does not have a pretty expression in my opinion, but she still possesses many of the necessary head qualities. Good breadth of skull. Good depth of skull. Sufficient stop. Nice eye shape and colour. Fair strength of muzzle. Slight taper. Excellent mouth. Good fawn colouring but some smutty colouring on chest. Good head markings. Excellent breadth and depth of chest. Very well angulated in front. Have a look at this bitch to see an upper arm that matches the length of the scapula, thus providing correct front angulation .Reasonable spring of rib. Strong well-angulated hindquarters. Toes in a little going away. Excellent coming towards me. Outstanding reach and drive from the side. Holds topline well on the move. As I stated, this bitch does not have what I would call a pretty head. However, she is typical, well constructed, and displays the best and most correct reach and drive on the day, along with a great topline on the move. She beat the reserve bitch on her angulation and side gait. I was pleased to award her the bitch challenge, and Runner up to Best Exhibit in Show. She beat the Reserve Dog Challenge winner on her construction and movement. 2. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX 4 year old fawn bitch. Very good height to length ratio. Good breadth of skull. Good depth of skull. Reasonable stop. Nice strength of muzzle. Muzzle could be a little bit more blunt. Very good mouth. Excellent width of chest and good fore-chest. Well angulated front. Good bone and feet. Good spring of rib. Well ribbed back. Short strong loin. Well angulated hindquarters. Reasonable width of thigh. Slightly more croup angle than I like. Well marked fawn with correct head markings. Slightly smutty on chest. True coming and going. Lifts a little bit in front. Good reach and drive on the move, although fairly flat in her temperament. She was out moved by the winner of the class. 3. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX 3 year old fawn bitch. Longer than high and too long in body for me in . Very pleasant head. Good width and depth of skull. Good stop. Reasonably strong muzzle could be more blunt in front. Just undershot but could be wider in underjaw. Reasonably wide chest. Good forechest development. Well angulated in front. Reasonably good spring of rib. Longer loin. Good rear angulation and well developed thighs. Reasonably even fawn colouring but lighter on chest and minimal smutting. Very good head markings. Reasonably true coming and going. Adequate reach and drive. A little slack on the move.

I would suggest that critiques are, within our judging system, more often provided at Specialty level, and as such, one assumes, that having accepted an invitation to adjudicate at a Specialty, the judge will possess depth of knowledge of the particular breed, and be willing and able to provide deeper breed insights and more detailed individual critiques. Critiquing at a more ‘general’ level may well occur in less specialised shows. The above examples are included simply for those who may require some examples to help them out.

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ANOTHER PERSPECTIVE ON CRITIQUING I suggest that trainee judges attend a German Shepherd Specialty Show, as not only is EVERY dog critiqued from first to last in the class, the judge after placing the first ten placegetters on the pegs, is given a microphone and verbally critiques the dogs in front of them to the general public and other exhibitors. I believe that it is probably more important for the dog LAST in the class to be given a written critique than the first three, because the people can then compare the critique on their dog to those that were placed in front of them, so they can learn why they were placed last. I have judged several Specialities of my breed, both in Australia and overseas, and have always critiqued every dog from first to last. When critiquing, your opening line should be an overall picture of the dog and could be something like, "Masculine, strong, tri coloured dog, of excellent (very Good, or good) type." Then you start with the head, forequarters, body, hindquarters, then feet, coat, and lastly movement. If the head is too heavy or too fine, you use words like "very strong" head or "I would like to see the head a little stronger" or things like “eyes could be a little more almond, or round”, or whatever. The same would apply to angulation. Would like to see a little more angulation in the forequarters or hindquarters? Maybe back could be a little firmer on the move? These are polite ways of saying straight in shoulder, no rear angulation and a dippy back. While you are critiquing honestly, you are saying things in a positive vain, rather than the negative. Be careful when critiquing to never use words like "lovely", "beautiful" etc, as I do not know of any standard that has those words in them. My other pet peeve is "not as good a head as the dog in front" as I cannot see the dog in front when reading the critique, and then to compound the stupidity of the statement, when you flip back to the "dog in front" there is no mention of the head. Use words like "correct" and if the dog has an excellent head or shoulders, then say things like "Excellent head that is balanced has correct eye shape and colour, strong underjaw with scissor bite." I use the words "Excellent" when describing something that is closest to the standard, "Very Good" for things that are pretty close to standard, and "Good" being just within standard. I always write a bit of a preamble at the beginning of my critiques, explaining what I mean when using the words, excellent, very good and good.

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I normally do my critiques into a tape recorder, and always say what the exhibit number of the dog I am critiquing into the tape at the beginning so it would, for example, begin as "Exhibit No 29 - Small, (Medium or large) brindle dog etc". I like to critique as I go over the dogs rather than after they are on the pegs. I keep my tape recorder in my pocket, go over the dog, stand back and critique, then ask the dog to move, and as they are moving I record a description of movement. That could be, moved true and correct behind, has very good reach and drive (seen on the side during triangle) but would like to see elbows a little firmer on the come back. When you critique on the pegs, you are relying on your memory of the movement of the placed dogs, and you could have judged 15 to 20 dogs in the mean time. This way I believe that I am doing a critique in front of me to the standard, rather than a comparison of the dogs on the pegs. A critique is, after all, a verbal picture of the dog being critiqued. Gwen Ford Beagles & Dobermanns Melbourne

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HOW TO CRITIQUE

MAKE IT SIMPLE

MAKE IT FACTUAL

DON’T SAY WHAT YOU WANT, OR WOULD LIKE TO SEE, BUT WHAT THE DOG HAS

SAY IT WHEN YOU SEE IT

MAKE IT SYSTEMATIC

TAKE AN OVERALL IMPRESSION FIRST, THEN START WITH THE HEAD AND WORK DOWN THROUGH THE BODY. FINISH WITH FORE AND AFT MOVEMENT, SIDE GAIT, AND THEN LOOK AT THE OVERALL IMPRESSION AGAIN

DETAILED CRITIQUE FORMAT

AGE AND GENDER

TYPE AND CARRIAGE

SIZE, SUBSTANCE, BONE, PROPORTIONS

HEAD, SKULL, STOP, MUZZLE, CHEEK (HEAD FORM)

EARS, EYES, LIPS, PIGMENT, BITE AND TEETH

NECK, THROAT, WITHERS, TOPLINE, UNDERLINE, RIBBING, FORECHEST

FORE AND HINDQUARTERS WITH ANGULATION

PASTERNS, HOCKS, AND FEET

COAT, COLOUR AND MARKINGS

TAIL – LENGTH, SUBSTANCE AND SET. TAIL CARRIAGE ( MOVING AND STANDING )

MOVEMENT FORE AND AFT, SIDE MOVEMENT

TEMPERAMENT AND CHARACTER

MORE GENERAL CRITIQUE FORMAT

AGE AND GENDER

TYPE

SUBSTANCE, BONE, PROPORTIONS

HEAD, EXPRESSION AND MOUTH

NECK AND FOREQUARTERS

BODY

HINDQUARTERS AND TAIL

MOVEMENT

COAT

25


How do Gradings work?

Gradings are normally awarded at Specialist Rottweiler shows.

The Judge would do normally do the placings as he/she would in a normal breed show. However he/she would attach a "quality" value to exhibits. The closer the dog resembles the Breed Standard, the higher the grading.

The following is a summary about the gradings that can be given. Please note that these are short summaries and the whole process can be quite a bit more complex.

For puppies:

Grading Explanation

WVN Little promising

VSP Promising

VVN Very Promising

For adult dogs:

Grading Symbol Explanation

No Grading OB This grading is given when the judge for whatever reason cannot examine (or can not touch) the dog in gait, conformation, teeth, coat, testes, tail, etc. Or when it is apparent that the dog has been treated or operated on in some way to alter or conceal some faulty feature of the dog.

Insufficient

"Nicht Genügend"

NGGD

Is given to a dog that do not correspond to the typical prescribed type. It clearly also shows a behavior that is not typical for the breed.

Disqualifying faults that will cause the dog to be graded NGGD.

An over aggressive dog, Or a dog that bites the judge.Very shy or nervous dogs. A dog with a missing testicals (Crypt orchid or Monorchid). A dog with inheritable dentition faults or jaw abnormalities. (Missing teeth) (Overshot or Undershot) A dog with a coat abnormality (Long hair, White markings, Total lack of markings wrong coloured dogs). Dogs with very light eye colour (Yellow eye colour).(Eyes of different colour) ( Entropian, Ectropian Dogs with obvious reversal of sex characteristics (Bitchy dogs or the reverse).

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Sufficient

"Genügend"

S Is given to a dog which sufficiently corresponds to the breed standard without having the generally known characteristics of the breed and its physical condition and conformation leaves much to be desired.

Very obvious noticeable fault that will cause the dog to be down graded from a G to a GGD are as follows:

Four or more of the visible faults as mentioned before for a grading of GOOD.

Good

"Gut"

G Must be awarded to a dog which displayed the main characteristics of the Rottweiler, but which has obvious visible faults to the extend that they cannot be disguised.

Obvious visible fault that will cause the dog to be down graded from a SG to a G are as follows:

Three or more faults must be visible.

1. A level bite, age 24 months is not good. Age 4 –5 years not so bad. Or other dentition faults. 2. A pink mouth and gums. 3. A dog lacking clear and well defined markings or one with severe smudges in the markings. Very light colour markings. 4. A dogs who’s back is getting soft whilst running (Dip in the back). Or a roached back., also showing other movement faults. Lack of rich and drive. Cow hocked, Splayed feet, Soft pasterns, 5. A dogs with incorrect ear carriage. 6. A Dog with a lighter eye colour. (light brown ) 7. A dog with straight front and hind quarters. (Lacking rear angulation, rich and drive.) 8. A dog with a shallow stop 9. A dog with a lot of dewlap. 10. A dog with loose shoulders or out in elbow. 11. A dog with a light nose colour 12. Too heavy dogs or too thin bitches. 13. Lethargic dogs or timed dogs.

Very Good

"Sehr Gut"

SG

Only awarded to a dog which displays the typical characteristics of the Rottweiler, who is of well balanced proportions and in good condition. Some minor faults will be accepted. or overlooked, however not morphological ones (affecting type ). This grading can only be given to a “classy” dog with very few visible faults.

Obvious visible fault that will cause the dog to be down graded from a V to a SG are as follows:

1. A level bite, age 24 months is not good. Age 4 –5

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years not so bad. Or other slight dentition faults, like a twisted P3. 2. A pink mouth and gums. 3. A dog lacking clear and well defined markings or one with severe smudges in the markings. Very light colour markings. 4. A dogs who’s back is getting soft whilst running (Dip in the back). Or other slight movement faults. 5. A dogs with incorrect ear carriage. 6. A Dog with a lighter eye colour. (medium brown) 7. A dog with straight hind quarters. Lacking rear angulation, rich and drive. 8. A dog with a lot of dewlap. 9. A dog with loose shoulders or out in elbow. 10. A dog with a light nose colour.

Excellent

"Vorzuglich"

V

May only be awarded to a dog that is very close to the latest approved breed standard of the Rottweiler. Being in an outstanding condition and must have a harmonious and well-balanced character and temperament. It must possessed class and an outstanding glowing presence or posture. His superior quality as a breed specimen overshadows any minor imperfections, whilst the typical appearance of his gender is always apparent. Dogs to be Masculine and Bitches to be Feminine. An outstanding dog all round.

When the dogs are placed from first to third, a further value is attached to the Grading. The position the dog has been placed is put at the after the actual grading:

Examples:

Placing Grading

1 V1

2 V2

3 V3

It is not to say that all dogs placed, will have the same grading:

Placing Grading

1 V1

2 SG2

3 SG3

Note that effectively a dog that has a "V" grading is of better quality than a dog with a "SG" grading. Therefore, a "V" grading will always stand in front of a "SG" grading.

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9. PREPARING FOR YOUR TEST One assumes that by this stage, trainees will have had plenty of ring experience, and gathered together some in depth information about the breeds of the group. In Victoria, in recent years, the way that tests are conducted have varied, and this may change further over the next couple of years. Therefore, some of the below points may or may not be relevant to particular tests. I prepare for a test in the following way…. a. Swatting up on my standards and making sure I have a good understanding of the breeds. I also would have already developed a grid containing the major information from the standard, which can be a good general summary to use (see following pages) b. It is important to develop a summary of each breed. This can be done by doing a précis of each breed, and/or developing a list of the five or so major characteristics of the breed. Others I know have developed various other types of summaries, maybe dealing with similarities and differences, or particular points … maybe comparing eyes or coats, heads or colours c. It is essential to revise basic canine structure and terminology, as you should be able to use the common and correct terms when you are discussing your placements c. Think carefully about what you will wear, be smart, comfortable and appropriate d. Think carefully about how you will organise your ring, although it might be hard to predict what the ring will look like e. Getting together with fellow trainees can be invaluable, sharing ideas, interpretations and perceptions. However, this can also be a trap …. remember that your opinion is what is being sought in the test and whenever judging f. Plan the day of the test to give yourself time to be well prepared, as least stressed as possible, and on time! g. In some test situations, how you work with other trainees in the ring may well be a consideration, as some tests in Victoria may have more than one trainee in the ring. In this situation it is also worth thinking about how you might compensate for not being able to put the exhibits in your final order (other than in your mind) and/or giving them a final run around the ring in this order.

29


Once in the ring, consider the following …. a. Organise your ring accordingly. Think about how you can best move your dogs. b. Timing: it is important to complete each class in a reasonable time, as you are usually timed. You should try and keep this in mind along the way. c. Confidence: you need to judge the class with confidence, and assure the testers that you are ready to be a professional. Dithering is certainly not a good idea, although thoroughness is essential if you are to be able to talk your placements successfully d. Assuming you have no idea what breeds you will be tested on, one of the first things you need to do once you know the breed, is to remind yourself of the major characteristics of the breed, and thus the criteria you will be making your decisions upon e. Once the class enters the ring, you will often be able to move them around the ring, or to the table, and this initial view of the exhibits will provide you with your first, and probably valuable, overall impressions. Once going over each exhibit separately, you can then add detail and ‘check things out’ f. Whilst going over each exhibit, I try to continually think about how I would talk about this animal to the testers, thinking about their attributes and deficiencies in accordance to the breed standard g. Remember, you are not fault judging, but looking for the animal that comes closest in adherence to the breed standard h. Do not get too ‘hung up’ on one particular point, but look at each animal as a whole package i. Work the class and make all your decisions before placing them, just as you would in an everyday show. It is a good idea to move the class around once again after making placements, just to be sure you are correct. It fascinates me when exhibitors say … “why did they put that one up after moving the class around the ring, as the other was the better mover around the ring”. Well, to me, we are judging for type, balance, then soundness, and the judge who moves the dogs around the ring before placement may well decide for that class that the more typical dog is better overall than the one who moves around the ring best! j. It may be necessary to place an otherwise very typical exhibit further down the line than you would like to. This may relate to a mouth issue, or temperament. I suggest that you emphasize your reasoning very clearly relating to this, and be clear as to the position the exhibit may have reached in the line if the problem had not been present. This will clearly show the testers that you have recognised the breed type.

30


j. Think hard about how you respond, and what you say to the Testers. Take your time to compose your answer if necessary and don’t be rushed. Hopefully the testers will be willing to draw out information, but once stated, it is hard to take comments back! k. It is often best to begin with comments on type, balance and soundness. Be specific, as very general comments are often not useful to your situation. Its best to talk about the positives you found, referring to the main features relevant to the breed. l. Try to think back to what you found when you examined and moved each exhibit, together with the salient points of the breed. Avoid using terms such as nice etc. Be willing to ask testers to restate a question, or ask what they mean if you do not understand. m. Once a class is over, try to forget about it, and approach the next with new vigour and a positive attitude, even if you felt stressed after the last one .. it may just put you over the line!

31


Below are examples, not all my own, of some methods to organise and record information in preparation for tests…….

Writing a small précis/summary of the breed can be a very good way to gain an overview .. especially after a lecture.

NEWFOUNDLAND SHORT DESCRIPTION

The Newfoundland is a large, balanced, active dog capable of some endurance. Dogs stand 28 inches and bitches 26. He possesses a gentle and docile nature. The head is massive and broad with a well developed occiput and little stop. The muzzle is fairly short and square. The neck is strong, front is well angulated with a deep and fairly broad chest and very strong bone. Well ribbed back, strong loin, broad back and strong hindquarters. Feet are large and tight, with webbing. The tail is thick, hangs with a slight curve at the end, and is carried up in motion, but not over the back. His smooth and effortless gait has reach and drive. He moves with a slight roll at a slow trot. The coat is double, with outer being coarse, oily and water resistant. The three colours are dull jet black, brown and landseer.

32


Key words and characteristics for particular breeds can also be an excellent learning tool. KEY WORDS AND CHARACTERISTICS – WORKING DOGS A.C.D. Strong

Australian Kelpie Lithe, active dog

Australian Shepherd Lithe, agile

A.S.T.C.D. Hard-bitten, rugged appearance

Bearded Collie Lean, active dog, plenty of daylight under body

Belgian Harmonious, proud carriage

Border Collie Graceful, perfect balance

Bouvier Short, compact, strong

Briard Rugged appearance, double dewclaws

Collie (rough) A dog of great beauty

Collie(smooth) perfect anatomical formation

Finish Lapphund Strong for its size

G.S.D All round working, herding and service dog

Komondor Corded coat, powerful

Kuvasz Strong but not coarse

Maremma Head conical shape (polar bear)

Norwegian Buhund Free from exaggeration

O.E.S Capacious (skull, body and nose)

Polish Lowland Cobby

Puli Corded coat, umbrella over eyes

Shetland Sheepdog Great beauty, sweetness of expression

Swedish Lapphund Versatile

Swedish Vallhund Small, powerful

Welsh Corgi (Cardigan) Fox-like head and tail

Welsh Corgi (Pembroke) Workmanlike

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BREE

D

APPEAR CHARACT TEMP HEAD EYES EARS MOUTH NECK FRO

NT

BODY HIN

D

FEET TAIL GAIT COAT COLOU

R

SIZE

Affenp

inscher

Monkey

Like, small

not delicate, sturdy

Comic

Seriousness

Loyal,

watchful

Small,

domed

fore, stop, short

muzzle,

chin =tri

Round,

dark,

medium, not prot

Small,

high, drop

or erect

Just under,

no tongue

Short,

straight,

no wrinkle

Close

elbow

s

Short,

withers=

back, sprung,

slight

tuck

Well

set

under

Small,

round,

dark

Set and

carried

high

Struttin

g, lift

high but not

hack

Rough

and

harsh, frames

eyes

Black,

grey

shading perm

9.5-11

A Silky

Terrie

r

Compact, refined, kill

rodents

alertness Muz shorter,

fairly

broad skull, flat,

top knot

Small, oval, dark

V shaped, fine, high,

no long

hair, pricked

scissor Med, slight

crest

Fine shoul

d,

round bone

Mod long,

level,

sprung,

Well turne

d

Cat, padded,

black

Dock, high,

erect, not

gay, smooth

Free and

true,

propelling

Flat, fine,

glossy

Blue or grey blue

and tan,

silver blue or fawn

top knot

9 - 10

Bichon

Frise

Toy, proud, corkscrew

Lively, alert gay Shorter muzz, flat

cheek,

slight stop, flat

skull

Dark, round, not

too big,

socket not pronounce

Narrow, delicate,

reach ½

way along muzz

scissor Long, proud 1/3

of body

oblique

Chest well,

deep

brisket, slight

round

croup

oblique

Small, rounde

d,

black

Grace curl, not

touch

backbone

Fine, silky,

corkscr

ew7/10

white

Cavali

er

KCS

Active,

grace, gentle

exp

Fearless,

sporting,

affect

gay Almost

flat,

shallow, 1.5”,muzz

le tapered,

filled b eye

Large,

dark,

round

Long, high,

feather

scissor Mod,

slight

arch

Lay,

mod

bone

Level,

spring,

short coupled

Well

turne

d

Compa

ct,

cushioned,

feather

ed

Not above

back, can

be docked 1/3

Free,

elegant

Long,

silky,

free from

curl

Black and

tan, ruby,

blenheim, tir

12-

18lbs

Chihu

ahua

Smoot

h

Dainty, small,

compact

Alert, swift, brisk

gay Rounded, apple

dome,

cheeks lean, short

muz,

pointed, def stop

Large, round,

level with

ear/stop, dark/ruby

Large, flaring,

45degrees,

scissor Slight arch,

medium

Well laid

Level, longer

from pt

should to croup to

withers

height, sprung,

brisket

Musc,

good

turn,

Small, dainty,

toes

divided

High, sickle,

broadens

then tapers

Brisk, reach

and

drive

Smooth and

soft,

glossy, ruff

under

any 6lbs,

2-4

prefer

red

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Others choose to write more organized précis, with detail in each section of the standard.

AUSTRALIAN SILKY PRECIS

Dogs….Approx 9” bitches slightly less Compact…..moderately low set……Medium length….(longer than high)……… topline straight & Level……. round bone… ….Terrier characteristics HEAD moderate length, s/shorter muzzle to Mod broad…flat skull….fine silky top-knot Nose black. EYES - Small oval….dark…..keen expression…………..never round or prominent. EARS – Small….fine…… V-shaped….set high….pricked……..NO long hair. NECK - Medium length……slightly crested……covered with long silky hair. FEET – Small….. cat-like…….toenails must be black or very dark……feet free from long hair. TAIL - Set on high…….carried erect…..not over-gay…….. free of feathering. GAIT - Free and true……Hindquarters strong propelling power COAT - Must be flat…..fine & glossy……silky…..Length not too long….. daylight to be seen under dog COLOUR - All shades of blue and tan (richer the better). NOT Silver and white…. Blue on tail very dark. Silver blue or fawn top-knot desirable. The blue body colour should be free from tan or bronzing. Tan markings must be free from smuttiness. Black colouring is permissible in puppies, blue colour must be established by 18 months of age.

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Writing a summary of each breed, including their history, purpose and the key points

from the standard can be a most valuable tool.

BASENJI

History

The country of origin is the Democratic Republic of the Congo, the pure bred Basenji

can also be found in regions such as the Sudan and Liberia. The ancestors of this

breed date back to Egyptian times as early as 3000 B.C., these have been depicted

from wall engravings and in paintings on tombs.

One method of hunting they were used for was to flush their quarry in the tall

elephant grass and leap straight up in the air, and whilst airborne look for their prey.

And because they do not give tongue the owners would know they had found prey by

the rattling of a gourd filled with pebbles that hung around their neck. Consequently

from this they were also given the name jumping up and down dog. Another purpose

when hunting is to drive the game into nets, which are held by the waiting natives.

Being odourless, the chance of their scent being picked up by their quarry is reduced.

The Basenji is classified as a sight hound. Basenjis produce an unusual yodel-like

sound due to the shape of the larynx. They have traits in common with cats. Like the

Dingo, the Basenji male and female come into season once a year.

Short Description

- Finely boned

- Aristocratic

- High on leg

- Barkless

- Wrinkled head

- Pricked ears and slightly hooded

- Tightly curled tail

- Coat short, sleek, close and fine, with a pliant skin

- Gait has a swift long tireless swinging stride

Compiled by

xxxxxxx

Bibliography

A.N.K.C. Breed Standards

http://www.basenjiclubvic.org/history.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basenji

http://www.basenjiclubvic.org/history.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basenji

36


10. SUPPORTING THE SYSTEM – YOUR CONTRIBUTION So you passed! Congratulations! How many people helped you along the way? I bet there were heaps! How can you help the system? How can you contribute? I was disappointed to hear one individual saying how they had come along with their dogs to the tests “under sufferance” at the 2006 series of tests. This person has several Licences under their belt. I wonder at that attitude and believe that I should give back to the system in ways that I am able, just as those before gave for my benefit. Can you provide lectures for trainees? Can you bring dogs for the breed lectures? Can you provide dogs for testing purposes? Could you support Group Leaders by organising/coordinating a well thought out team of dogs for a test, with consideration to providing a good range of dogs that can be sorted out by a trainee? Could you share experiences with trainees and other judges?

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Do you answer the questions of trainees eager to learn at lectures, shows, etc? Would you bring animals to field days? Would you act as a mentor? We should all remember that our system is based upon people volunteering their valuable time and effort, and it is up to us to make our contribution, however large or small, in a way that we are able to. I hope that you will make your contribution when the time is right for you. Best of luck with your quest to gain your licence! Andrew Burt February 2008 [email protected] (With appreciation to those who have read my draft, offering advice, enhancements and additions …. Stephanie Rickard, John Thompson, Graeme Missen, Julie Aspinall and Cheryl Wright)

mailto:[email protected]

Documents

How to succeed as a trainee judge