Inturf is grown from speciallyselected and graded seeds onsandy soil which develops ahealthy root system in each andevery grass plant.

As the individual plants knittogether in our fields to producethe turf, they are watered andgiven extra nutrition to produce ahealthy, weed-free, sward.

Regular mowing and rollingencourages the turf to thicken up.This is repeated throughout thegrowing cycle as necessary,depending on weather conditions.

The turf is carefully lifted using acomputer controlled harvestingmachine which cuts each roll at thethe correct length and depth. Theturf is delivered fresh to ourdistributors within 12 hours.

How we grow your perfect turfHow to lay the perfect lawn...

...and how to care of it

Clear the site of debris, largestones and weeds. If persistentweeds are present you may wish tospray with a glyphosate weed killersuch as Roundup or Spasor. Forsoft weeds, you could useparaquat based weedkillers suchas Weedol or Speedway. NB spraychemical treatments are notessential – good results areachievable without.

When the soil is dry, dig over orrotavate the site, correcting anyhigh or low spots and roughly setout shape and contours.

Firm the area using your feet or agarden roller. It will be firm

enough when you leave a lightimpression of your footprint,

without sinking. Level and gradethe soil to the exact shape andcontours required, getting the

surface as smooth as possible.Rake to a fine tilth to a depth ofabout three quarters of an inch

(20mm).

As an option at this stage you canincorporate a base fertilizer and

rake into the surface if the soil is oflow fertility. The rate and type of

fertilizer will depend on thecondition of the land. If in doubt,

leave any feeding until after thenew turf has established, because

it will have been fed shortly beforeharvesting.

If the turf has arrived before sitepreparations are ready, store thestacked turf in a cool position,shaded and uncovered. If delayedmore than one day, unroll onto apathway or similar, water and usewhen ready.

Bring turf to site. Avoid walking onthe prepared site. After the firstrow of turf has been laid workfrom planks to minimise walkingon the newly laid lawn.

Start at the longest straight edge ofyour site. Lay turf end to end,

butting up as closely as possible.Lay turf brick fashion by staggering

the joints and rake again justbefore laying. Avoid stretching

the turf.Firm the turf down using a light

roller and water immediately withplenty of water. Ensure watersoaks through to the underlyingsoil. Keep watered until fully

established. (See timetable)

When established, lightly scarify orbrush before mowing. Keep a littleturf unrolled to one side to correctany imperfections that may appearduring establishment.

When mowing, box all clippings.Never remove more than 25% ofgrowth at any one mowing. Thefirst mowing should take placewhen over three quarters of aninch (20mm) of new growth hasappeared. Only remove this newgrowth at the first cut, and onlygradually reduce mowing height ifa close cut is required.

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Delivered fresh to:

INTURF should be laid within 24 hours of arrival in the Spring andSummer months and within 3 days during the Winter period. If youcan’t lay the turf within this time scale, find a level surface – a driveor pathway – and un-roll the turf. This will keep it healthy andfresh for up to ten days in the Winter months and a week duringthe Spring and Summer. Water well during this time.

The initial establishment period will depend on the nature of thesoil but generally 7-14 days during mild growing weather and 3-6weeks during colder periods. During this establishment period it isbest to leave the area alone other than for ‘topping’ with a mower.Thereafter, the degree of maintenance will depend on the type ofsurface required.

Top-dressingA bulk top-dressing of sand, soil and peat in the proportion 3:2:1may be needed to fill any joints and to finally level the surface.This can be brushed into the sward and rolled. Occasionalscarification or brushing of the surface will invigorate the swardand remove superfluous organic material in the base of the sward.

MowingThe early mowings will have to be very slight, thereafter verygradually reduce the height. Never remove more than 25% of thegrowth at any one mowing.

FertilizingAfter a period of approximately three to five weeks (butonly during the spring/summer period) it is advisableto apply a light dressing of compound fertilizerapplied at half recommended rate. Once the turf isestablished, apply a high nitrogen (N), zerophosphate (P), medium-to-high potash (K), perhapswith a little iron. These treatments continuethroughout the growing season, say every 4/6 weeks,reducing nitrogen when approaching the autumn.

WateringIt is important that a suitable watering system is available

immediately after laying the turf.

Turf will be severely checked if not

watered-in immediately after laying

and watering continued until fully

established.

Immediate aftercare

NovemberDuring frost-free and fairly dry periods this month, mow the areaas and when necessary – the blades now set at their highest level.If you missed any autumn/winter fertilizer dressings or wormcontrol applications, this is your last opportunity to undertake thiswork.

DecemberNot much to be done at this time of the year, but remember tokeep the area brushed and raked free from debris to ensure thatyou don’t attract too much moisture which would lead to diseaseand pest infestations. You shouldn’t need to mow the area at thistime, but if you missed an end-of-season mowing, pick a nice dryday to do it. Keep off the turf during wet and frosty weather.

Your guide to easy year round turf maintenance

JanuaryIf the weather permits, aerate the surface using a solid tinespiking machine or, in smaller areas, a garden fork. Keep thesurface free from leaves, twigs and other debris. This helps keepthe turf dry and reduces the risk of disease.

FebruaryThe same procedures apply this month. If there is a hint of springyou might top the long, straggly grass that has grown over thewinter period with a carefully set mower. Brush the groundregularly if dry enough to remove any further leaves, twigs,debris, or wormcasts.

MarchA key month for maintenance. At the first signs of real growth,

give the surface area a light-to-medium weightrolling, to consolidate any surface unevenness

caused by winter frosts. Then, vigorously brushthe surface removing any further wormcastsand debris and mow the grass with an aim to

start reducing the mowing height. Always use agrass box. A two-directional 50/50 mowing is bestat first. Make sure that the mower is set correctlyand that you are achieving a good, clean cut.About two days after the first mowing apply aproprietary brand of lawn fertilizer designed for

spring/summer applications with the emphasis onhigh nitrogen, medium-rate potash and iron – but

avoid phosphates in the mixture. If it does not rain within threedays of application water the fertilzer into the top soil.

AprilThe feeding programme continues with another dressingaround mid-month. You may also need to apply aselective herbicide (weed killer) of a proprietary brand toeradicate broad-leaved weeds that have appeared overwinter. There are several brands available which shouldbe applied strictly in accordance with manufacturers’recommendations. Treat areas infected by moss with aproprietary moss killer. These are available in either liquid orpowder form. Sulphate of iron is useful not only to control anymoss, but also to invigorate the desirable grasses and to deepenthe green colour of the overall appearance. Continue to graduallyreduce the mowing height and step up the frequency of mowingfrom once to twice a week, not forgetting to always removeclippings.

MayNow that the grass is in “full flight”, you should scarify the areaby machine – for a large area – or using a spring tine rake toremove any dead grass lying in the base of the sward or “thatch”.If a lot of material is removed at the first pass, it would be best toscarify every two-to-three weeks during the growing season,until only a small amount of debris is removed.

Over-sow with a fine grass mixture if the surfacearea is sparse in grass growth. Grass seed canbe broadcast over the area, by hand or bymachine, at the rate of approximately three-quartersto one ounce per square yard. To ensure satisfactorygermination, apply a bulk top-dressing of three partssand to two parts peat to one part of good topsoil, sieved and brushed into the surface of thesward, effectively covering the seeds.

Continue mowing two-to-three times a week and aim to be atyour optimum desired mowing height at this stage. For domesticlawns, one would be looking at a total growth of 25mm (1") to37mm (11⁄4"): whereas, on finer turf areas, one would be lookingto mow down to between 9mm (3⁄8") and 12mm (1⁄2") at this time ofthe year.

Routine rolling can also continue, but this would be more for thefiner surfaces, where a playing surface is required, rather than foraesthetic appearance of the grass sward. Apply further fertilizerdressings if required.

JuneIf there are signs of a drought water the lawn area, avoidingexcessive watering since this encourages weed grasses to flourish.

If other weeds are present, a further treatment ofherbicide (weed killer) will be necessary.

Continue to mow at the frequency of two-to-threetimes a week – together with routine scarifying,rolling, and generally keeping the area clear from

debris.

July & AugustContinue to mow, remembering to alternate direction periodically.Water during drought conditions and, if the area has becomecompacted, a light spiking could be beneficial. Apply the finalsummer fertilizer towards the end of August. Above all, duringthese two months, you should take the opportunity of enjoying thesurfaces as much as possible. There will be plenty of time torenovate any worn areas in the next couple of months.

SeptemberThe frequency of mowing will decrease and the height of cut canbe raised gradually to between 6mm (1⁄4") and 12mm (1⁄2") abovethe summer height. If the underlying soil tends to consolidateexcessively, start hollow tine spiking, followed by top-dressings ofsand or sand/loam, depending on the nature of the surface.

Irrespective of this bulk top-dressings should beapplied which consist of a mixture of sand, peat andgood quality top soil, brushed into the sward to giveapproximately 3mm (1⁄8") coverage on average,

varying the amounts depending on any depressions orirregularities in surface levels. You might add a mixture

of quality grass seed in with the top-dressingmaterial in order to increase the population ofgrass in any worn areas. Repeat the process asdescribed earlier in the year. Worms may

become active again at this time of the year. If this is aproblem, treat the area with a proprietary brand of wormkiller. Light rolling may be useful, but only if absolutely

necessary since the heavy rolling programme that may havebeen undertaken during the spring and summer months shouldnow cease. It will no longer be necessary to scarifythe area, providing this has been undertaken on afairly regular basis throughout the spring andsummer. However, if this has been neglectedduring the growing season, now wouldbe the last opportunityof undertaking this – butthen only very lightly so asnot to cause too much shock ordamage to the sward prior tothe autumn. An application ofan autumn fertilizer dressing can bemade towards the end of themonth. This will contain farless nitrogen than thesummer dressings, and ahigh proportion of potash and a little iron toharden the grass plants, making them less susceptible to disease.

OctoberRegular mowing gradually comes to an end although whenweather conditions are suitable, mow the area as frequently asdemanded by the length of growth. Keep the area free fromdebris and leaves and try to use this month to “rest” the area inreadiness for the winter months. If you can, apply a solution ofiron sulphate to enhance the appearance of the grass and“harden-off” the grass in readiness for the winter.

GeneralNo mention has been made of fungicide applications, aswe feel that these are only necessary when the first signs ofdisease are evident. So, although we don’t recommendprecautionary treatments of fungicide, it would berecommended that you stock some contact, broad-spectrum fungicide of a proprietary brand and, at the firstsigns of disease, spray the affected areas very quickly.Also, no mention was made as to the range ofmaintenance equipment and materials needed to upkeepthe area satisfactorily, listed as follows:

• A good quality cylinder mower

• A lawn rake or scarifyer (hand tool or motorised)

• Aeration machine (garden fork for small areas, ortined motorised machine)

• Besom or stiff broom

• Suitable watering equipment

• A stiff brush and a lute for top-dressing

• A knapsack sprayer, edging shears, half-moon iron,fertilizer spreader, and other general gardeningimplements, such as spades, trowels, garden lines,canes, lawn slitters and planks for any turf laying.

N.B.: These notes are offered to INTURF customers, purelyas a very general guide to the upkeep and maintenancefor established turf areas. If you have any specific enquiryor problem, we would be delighted to assist individually.