IBUKIJapanese Food, Culture and Lifestyle Magazine

Food Theme ParksThe Hottest Trend in Japan

CultureGods Demons and Ghosts

LifestyleMiya Ando, Finding Stillness in Steel

Travel Kyoto’s Hidden Treasures

May 2012 vol 15 Seattle, Portland and Chicago

Food Theme ParksThe Hottest Trend in Japan

by David Cook

12 January/Februray 2012 IBUKI

Tokyo is a foodie paradise. Tokyo city is home to more than 160,000 restaurants, many of which are world renowned. The 2010 Michelin Red Guide, to the world’s best and finest restaurants, lists 197 starred restaurants in Tokyo, more than three times as many as New York and twice as many as Paris. But for the budget traveler, a visit to the food theme parks can be just as enjoyable and bit easier on the pocketbook.

Fans of ramen flock to Shin-Yokohama for the Ramen Museum to deepen their knowledge of the cuisine and

taste some of the many styles of ramen that have developed in Japan over the years. The Ramen Museum features a dozen

ramen shops with regional flavors from different parts of Japan in a 1950s shitamachi (the old style of downtown Japan) setting.

Visitors can learn about the history of ramen and then enjoy some of their favorite noodles while strolling through the replicated neighborhood. For 300 yen you can enter the museum. Tickets for ramen are purchased from a vending machine in front of each shop.

Another 1950s themed food park is the Ikebukuro Gyoza Stadium. The stadium is located in Namjatown inside the Ikebukuro Sunshine City shopping complex. Admission to Namjatown is 300 yen. Here you can go strolling through recreated Tokyo street alleys of past decades and taste the many styles of gyoza, another Chinese dish that they have whole heartedly embraced.

Save some room for dessert, though. Namja Town is also home to Ice Cream City, an ice cream lover’s dream. With 300 flavors of ice cream to taste, there are sure to be a few new flavors here to discover.

Not all the theme parks focus just on the food, many also teach about different cultures as well.

—Brent Manning Budget Travel

Japanese Ramen Bath. Image provided by www.luuux.com/

Osaka is renowned for its inexpensive and tasty casual foods such as takoyaki and okonomiyaki. Naniwa Kuishinbo Yokocho, located inside the Tempozan Marketplace shopping mall, showcases Osaka’s variety of native dishes and specialties, all set in a 1970s street scene. Naniwa Kuishinbo is a great to stop by for a bite after visiting the wonderful Osaka Aquarium located nearby. Finally, the Osaka Takoyaki Museum, near Universal Studios Japan, a great place to deepen your knowledge about what may be Osaka’s most famous contribution to Japan’s rich street-food culture. Some of Osaka’s most famous makers of takoyaki have stores here each serving their own unique style of the dish.

Gourmet lovers of culinary dishes, close your eyes and slip slowly back to the early 20th century on a food travel excursion you won’t soon forget. You’ve found Dotonbori Gokuraku Shoten Gai, one of 60 Japanese food theme parks serving the hungry, the curious, and the adventurous.

Located in Osaka’s largest mid-city mall section, Dotonbori is a place where you can literally eat until you drop. You can’t miss it! Signs telling there abound, including it’s huge smiling face of

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Ebisu (one of seven Gods of Fortune who bring prosperity signaling you’re close to food paradise). The building itself resembles Osaka during its 1920’s thru 1930’s prewar days recreated to a near replica of its former self. Once there, take a fast elevator trip to the 5th floor. Get your entrance card (your pass to gourmet heaven) where everything you eat gets recorded for boosting rights and, oh, yes, your exit out your heavenly excursion cost for food and drinks. Also Included are traditional vaudeville and clad staff ready to help you experience your journey to Osaka’s past

Okay! What about the food? Fair enough. Start with Osaka favorites such as Tako-yaki (Octopus Ball), Okonomiyaki ( Japanese pancake), or Kushikatsu (skewed meat), all from carefully selected vendors to guarantee optimum taste. Don’t let their lack of English stop you, that’s part of Osaka’s rich entertainment. They use their hands and body as a means of communicating with their patrons, involving them in creating mouthwatering delicacies. Getting thirsty? Don’t miss Osaka’s version of a pub, Izakaya (Counter Bar). You’ll find more than 100 different kinds of Japanese sake to go along with a jumbo ice cream parfait you’ll have trouble trying to finish.

Japan is a nation of theme parks with over 60 different ones and the numbers growing rapidly. If you count amusement parks and such there are over 230. A few months ago I wrote about the passing of Momofuku Ando, the inventor of ramen noodles, and that there is a museum dedicated to Momofuku Ando and his invention. The idea of food museums is great. They are a way to learn about foods and try them. Little did I know that Japan has taken this idea and run with it, creating food theme parks all over the country. Besides Ando’s Instant Ramen Museum there is another Ramen Museum, a Curry Museum, a Gyosa Stadium, an Ice Cream City, a Sweets Forest, a Takoyaki Museum (octopus balls), a 1920’s Shanghai Food Village, a Little Hong Kong, and more.

Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum, Photo Credit ShinYokohamaRamenMuseum.com

Ikebukuro Gyoza Stadium, Photo Credit www.yoninja.com

People line up to try as many of the little bites as they can, all sold at affordable prices. There’s no way you can try them all so you have to be a bit emphatic and make your way through the crowds in search of you favorite choices. Then find a bit of elbow room to enjoy snacking on them before doing it all over again.

Osaka is renowned for its inexpensive and tasty casual foods such as takoyaki and okonomiyaki. Naniwa Kuishinbo Yokocho, located inside the Tempozan Marketplace shopping mall, showcases Osaka’s variety of native dishes and specialties, all set in a 1970s street scene. Naniwa Kuishinbo is a great to stop by for a bite after visiting the wonderful Osaka Aquarium located nearby. Finally, the Osaka Takoyaki Museum,

which is near the Universal Studios Japan, a great place to deepen your knowledge about what may be Osaka’s most famous contribution to Japan’s rich street-food culture. Some of Osaka’s most famous makers of takoyaki have stores here each serving their own unique style of the dish.

Not all the theme parks focus just on the food, many also teach about different cultures as well. Some of the Cultural Theme Parks are based on Italy, the Netherlands, and Spain. Here in the US we have Epcot Center at Disney with all the different countries there. I just wish that Disney did such a greatjob of providing authentic food and not taming it down so much. Of course some of the theme parks and amusement parks in Japan that focus on areas other than food and culture do the same thing as mentioned in this article on Universal Studios Japan where the food is “Universalized”, a bit of US exported for others to try.

As you can see each of these Food Parks has its own theme. What makes them special is that the foods are made by top restaurants and chefs, and the stalls are staffed by expert chefs and cooks so that the food is the best available examples of each kind. They are so popular that folks travel from all over the country to try the foods.

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Every pleasure trip to Japan should include time in Kyoto, Japan’s capital city from 794 to 1868.

Kyoto Prefecture stretches out from the southeast to the northwest in the central and northern parts of the Kansai region. It has four geographical features, the sawtoothed coastal area around Maizuru Bay in the northeast, the Tanba Mountains around its center, the Kyoto Basin in the southeast, and the Yamashiro Basin.

Kyoto became the capital of Japan in the 8th century. It flourished as the center for Japanese politics, economy and culture for some 1,100 years, until the capital functions were transferred to Tokyo in the mid-19th century. There remain many temples and shrines in Kyoto that were built during this long period. Seventeen historic sites including, Kiyomizu-dera Temple and Nijo Castle, are inscribed as World Cultural Heritage Sites.

You may meet some ‘maiko,’ young dancing entertainers, who walk in long hanging sleeved kimono in the Gion district, see the townscape characterized with popular 19th century style latticework, and visit the Nishijin where they weave traditional ‘Nishijin-ori’ textiles with vividly colored threads. The festivals in Kyoto are famous

Kyoto’s Hidden TreasuresBy Steve Corless

Header photo: Japanese Lanterns, Kyoto. Image provided by www.tourist-destinations.com. Right Photo: Kinkakuji, Kyoto. Images provided by Miki Noland

not only in Japan, but are also known worldwide. The three major festivals of Kyoto are the Aoi-matsuri Festival in early summer, the Gion-matsuri Festival in mid summer and the Jidai-matsuri Festival in fall. There is also the Gozan-no-Okuribi, more commonly known as Daimonji-yaki, held on the night of Urabon (August 16th). During this festival numerous torches are ignited on the five mountains surrounding Kyoto, with the flames laid out to form a letter or figure. It is a summer event known both at home and abroad.

“Every pleasure trip to Japan should include time in Kyoto, Japan’s capital city from 794 to 1868.”

Kyoto’s importance as a cultural center helped spare the city from wartime bombing, making it one of the few large cities in the country

with many historic structures remaining. The city and its environs boast 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. But Kyoto is

also a modern, bustling city. The historical, cultural and architectural treasures here are surrounded by, and

sometimes in competition with, the busy city. The best way to experience Kyoto’s cultural

treasures is to avoid the crowds, modern distractions as much as possible.

A great way to see some of the city’s gardens and historic buildings without the daytime crowds is to visit during one of the “light up” illumination events. Many of the city’s castles, temples, shrines and gardens host seasonal illumination events starting at 6:00pm and

running until as late as 10:00 at night. The gardens and architecture seem to have a magical

aura, and visitors tend to speak quietly and stroll slowly through the illuminated grounds. Check

with your tourist office upon arrival in Kyoto to learn about “light up”events during your time in the city.

Another activity best done in the evening is a stroll through the Gion district. This neighborhood has two hanamachi geiko communities (geisha are referred to as geiko in Kyoto) and numerous ochaya teahouses. A lucky visitor will have several opportunities to see the geiko or maiko apprentice geisha walking between teahouse engagements in the neighborhood.

For those seeking a full-immersion Zen experience, what could be better than an overnight stay in a Buddhist monastery? Mt. Koya is home to more than 120 temples, monasteries and the headquarters of the Shingon school of Japanese Buddhism. Mt. Koya, or Koyasan, is a couple of hours from Kyoto but worth the trip. Temple lodging ranges from the luxury level (hot springs and kaiseki dinner) to fairly spartan. Whatever your budget, an overnight stay in a temple is sure to be a welcome escape from the city and a memorable introduction to an important element of Japan’s culture and history.

Kyoto has many Western-style hotels that cater to both foreign and domestic travelers, including a Westin and the popular Hyatt Regency. For a traditional Kyoto ryokan inn experience, one night in the historic Hiiragiya ryokan offers an unparalleled aesthetic and culinary experience.

Photo on the left: Collector stamp given at the gardens. Photos on the right: The lower pond at Kinkaku-ji, Ginkaku-ji, Maiko, Koi’s, zen garden at Ryoan-ji,Shimogamo Shrine. Images provided by Miki Noland.

Photo on the left: When there’s color in Miya’s work, it’s usually a bold red or blue, as seen in this next minimalist sunset or sunrise. Photo on the right: Miya Ando. Photo By Anthony Gamboa

Japanese American artist Miya Ando channels her childhood in a Buddhist temple and her heritage as a descendant of Japanese swordsmiths to transform rough pieces of steel into tranquil art objects that reveal themselves in new ways each time we view them. The diminutive artist wields heavy machinery to bring out a Zenlike quality in the steel. Her art transforms steel in ways never seen before, whether she’s dipping aluminum blocks into big vats of dye for her Chado exhibit at Gallery ArtXchange in Pioneer Square this fall or polishing and refining a horribly twisted piece of the World Trade Center. While Ando reveres Japanese tradition and culture, she is also oh-so American in her constant questioning and willingness to experiment. The artist chatted with Ibuki on a recent trip to Seattle before the opening of her Chado exhibit, which ran through late October.

Tell us about your connection with Japan.Miya Ando: My mom is Japanese, and her hometown is Okayama. My grandfather was the head priest in a teeny little neighborhood temple. There were rice fields on three sides, so it was kind of rural. That’s where I spent my formative years. Before there were priests, there was at least one very famous swordsmith in our family. My grandfather’s brothers – my great uncles – collected the swords. When (World War II) was finished, America disarmed Japan. They said the Japanese people had to surrender all armaments, all knives and swords. The Andos – my family said don’t tell this; this is the type of thing that gets you in trouble with the great uncles – they took the swords that our ancestors made and took them out even further into another country home and buried them. So we still have them.

There was a giant show at the Met (The New York Metropolitan Art Museum) last year, a samurai show with armor and swords, and I was just noticing that about 90% of those objects came from outside of Japan because the Japanese had to surrender those things. I thought this was very interesting. This heritage at least initially was very powerful in my choice of materials.

Finding Stillness in Steelby Chado

Tell us about your process. I picture you at work with blowtorches at high heat making these tranquil, meditative pieces.Miya Ando: That’s exactly right. The process is very rigorous, which is to me something very serene. I grew up in a Buddhist temple, so it must have been ingrained into my very being that whatever you’re doing should have at the basic level a compassionate element. I am not trying to be lofty with the work in putting forth what visual objects can do, but at least it is putting forth something peaceful or hopefully something that inspires reflection – and I mean that figuratively and literally. It could be a setting for quietude. That has always been the core intention of the work.

My philosophy is not denominational, but it is spiritual. I believe in transformation. I believe in ascension. Having a transformation occur on manmade, industrial, hard, cold, masculine material is a metaphor for personal transformation. Not to sound new-agey! (laughs) It’s not didactive work on any level. If it’s a sunset, it’s a sunset. One could say that my work is very Zen in that it’s very open. There’s a very disciplined, physically rigorous process in my work.

Maybe the approach that I learned in temple is something I carried with me. That practice and repetition is very influential in the work.

You go through this rigorous process that produces such tranquil art.Miya Ando: Right, right. It looks very serene, and no one would know that when I was working on it, there was fire and acid and respirators and heavy gloves and rubber boots and leather aprons and sweating people! I am not physically built to be a steelworking artist, but I try very hard. At the end, it’s a result of a meditative approach. One second hotter or more patina or leaving some chemical on there is going to totally change it. It’s very short working times and very high heat. It’s dark a lot of the time because we’re using fire.

Miya Ando, refining a horribly twisted piece of the World Trade Center. photo: by Drew Doggett

Gods, Demons and Ghosts

YoshitoshiThe last great master of Ukiyo-e

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Tsukioka Yoshitoshi (30 April 1839 – 9 June 1892) also named Taiso Yoshitoshi was a Japanese artist. He is widely recognized as the last great master of Ukiyo-e, a type of Japanese woodblock printing. He is additionally regarded as one of the form's greatest innovators. His career spanned two eras – the last years of feudal Japan, and the first years of modern Japan following the Meiji Restoration. Like many Japanese, Yoshitoshi was interested in new things from the rest of the world, but over time he became increasingly concerned with the loss of many aspects of traditional Japanese culture, among them traditional woodblock printing.

By the end of his career, Yoshitoshi was in an almost single-handed struggle against time and technology. As he worked on in the old manner, Japan was adopting Western mass reproduction methods like photography and lithography. Nonetheless, in a Japan that was turning away from its own past, he almost singlehandedly managed to push the traditional Japanese woodblock print to a new level, before it effectively died with him.

His life is perhaps best summed up by John Stevenson:

“ Yoshitoshi's courage, vision and force of character gave ukiyo-e another generation of life, and illuminated it with one last burst of glory.”—John Stevenson,

Yoshitoshi's One Hundred Aspects of the Moon, 1992

During his life he produced many series of prints, and a large number of triptychs, many of great merit. His reputation has only continued to grow, both in the West, and among younger Japanese, and he is now almost universally recognized as one of the greatest Japanese artist.

Exhibition Dates: August 11–September 19, 20112 Location: Mitsuwa Ballroom, Arlington Heights, IL Hours: Tues – Sat 11 AM – 5:30 PM Phone: 847-839-0377 Website: www.mitsuwa.org

Gods, Demons and Ghosts

YoshitoshiThe last great master of Ukiyo-e

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With swordmaking in Japan, you wear all white, you cleanse your soul and purify yourself. The transferral of the energy goes directly into this object. On the handle of the sword are these Buddhist prayers and Buddhist deities. The sword only has one function, and it’s a violent function, but the creating of the object is done with this reverence.

In September, you unveiled a piece in London commemorating the victims of the September 11, 2001, attacks on The World Trade Center. Miya Ando: Yes. In September, we unveiled a September 11 memorial sculpture that I made out of a three-story-tall piece of the World Trade Center. This piece of steel fell over 70 stories. I took the steel and left it in the exact form in which I found it. It was all rusted. I took part of it and polished it into a mirror, an absolute reflective surface, and stood it back up. That was the memorial sculpture.

Now you’re traveling to Tokyo for a show.Miya Ando: For the show in Tokyo (which began on Oct. 23), I had been thinking about the language of respectfully memorializing. Then the tsunami occurred. The Tokyo show is not a memorial show, but it is acknowledging the loss. But this is different from 9/11 because it

was a natural disaster. The show is entitled “elements,” and I am doing something with earth, fire, water and air. It’s deified in the Shinto religion, the native religion of Japan. Mount Fuji is a deity, and stones and old trees are demarcated with rice ropes and papers saying this is a spirit. I have decided to create works that are a balance of the elements. I am hoping that it’s reflective and properly somber.

You split your childhood between Okayama and Santa Cruz. How has your experience in California influenced you?Miya Ando: I feel just as American as I do Japanese. The Japanese are the people who raised me. And I also think that I live in America, and the idea of making a daguerreotype on aluminum and making things big … That spirit of running and jumping off cliffs and seeing what happens is something that I would attribute to living in Santa Cruz where there are no rules, the edge of the earth.

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Shin-Yokohama Ramen MuseumWhere: 5-10 minute walk from Shin-Yokohama Station Hours: Daily 11:00 to 22:00 (longer hours on some days) Admission: 300 yen

The Ramen Museum introduces the history of ramen and features about a dozen ramen stores with regional flavors from across Japan in a setting of Tokyo in the 1950s, the time when ramen gained popularity.

Ikebukuro Gyoza StadiumWhere: 15 minute walk from Ikebukuro Train Station Hours: Daily 10:00 to 22:00 (entry until 21:00) Admission: 300 yen (Namjatown)

Located inside the Ikebukuro Sunshine City complex, the Ikebukuro Gyoza Stadium features various gyoza dishes by famous restaurants from across Japan.

Ice Cream CityWhere: 15 minute walk from Ikebukuro Train Station Hours: Daily 10:00 to 22:00 (entry until 21:00) Admission: 300 yen (Namjatown)

Also located inside the Ikebukuro Sunshine City complex, the colorful Ice Cream City consists of about ten different ice cream stores, selling countless types of ice cream

Jiyugaoka Sweets ForestWhere: 5 minute from Jiyugaoka Station, Tokyu Toyoko Line Hours: Daily 10:00 to 20:00 Admission: Free

Sweets Forest in the pleasant city district of Jiyugaoka specializes in various, mostly Western style sweets, such as cakes and ice cream. There are about half a dozen stands operated by famous patissiers.

Not your Mother’s tea

Enjoy ZEN responsibly