IDENTITY OF THREE GRAPEVINE VARIETIES FROM A … · Virginia ALONSO-VILLAVERDE1, Ignacio ORRIOLS2 and María-Carmen MARTÍNEZ1* 1: Misión Biológica de Galicia (CSIC), Apartado de

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©Vigne et Vin Publications Internationales (Bordeaux, France)

IDENTITY OF THREE GRAPEVINE VARIETIES FROM A REDISCOVERED VITICULTURE REGION

IN NORTHWEST SPAIN

Pilar GAGO1, José-Luis SANTIAGO1, Susana BOSO1, Virginia ALONSO-VILLAVERDE1, Ignacio ORRIOLS2

and María-Carmen MARTÍNEZ1*

1: Misión Biológica de Galicia (CSIC), Apartado de Correos 28, 36080 Pontevedra,Carballeira 8, El Palacio, 36143 Salcedo, Pontevedra, Spain

2: Estación de Viticultura e Enoloxía de Galicia (Xunta de Galicia), Ponte San Clodio s/n,Leiro, 32427 Ourense, Spain

*Corresponding author: [email protected]

Aims: The old literature contains references to the varieties once cultivatedin the Betanzos region (northwestern Spain) and three of them (BlancoLegítimo, Agudelo and Serradelo) were rediscovered during a survey workthat began in 1987 and now form part of a collection held at the MisiónBiológica de Galicia (MBG-CSIC). The aims of the present work were 1)to describe these three varieties, 2) to determine whether grapevines recentlyplanted are indeed true representatives of these varieties and if so 3) toexamine their agronomic and oenological potential.

Methods and Results: Ampelographic descriptions were made followingthe OIV method (OIV, 2009) and the reconstruction of ‘mean leaves’(Martínez and Grenan, 1999). Ten microsatellite loci were also characterised.Having confirmed the supposed identity of the vines in the vineyards, theiragronomic and oenological potentials in the region were investigated(fertility, weight of fruit, composition of must and wine). The ampelographicand molecular results showed the following synonyms: Blanco Legítimo= Albarín Blanco; Serradelo = Brancellao (Spain) or synonym Alvarelhão(Portugal); Agudelo = Chenin Blanc.

Conclusions: The vines supposed to be Blanco Legítimo and Agudelorecently planted in the Betanzos area had largely been correctly identifiedby their planters.

Significance and impact of the study: The identification of synonymshas repercussions for the commercial exploitation of these varieties. Theimplications for Blanco Legítimo are relatively reduced since its synonymsare also grown in minority areas; however, for Serradelo and Agudelo theyare more serious because their synonyms are varieties already widelygrown. Finally, the present results contribute to our knowledge of thehistory and movement of grapevine cultivars in Europe.

Key words: ampelography, history, genetic resources, Betanzos, synonyms

Objectifs: La bibliographie ancienne contient des références sur les cépagescultivés dans la zone viticole de Betanzos (nord-ouest de l’Espagne). Troisde ces cépages (Blanco Legítimo, Agudelo et Serradelo) ont été repérés àpartir d’un travail commencé en 1987. Ils font maintenant partie de lacollection de la Misión Biológica de Galicia (MBG-CSIC). Les objectifsde ce travail sont: 1) décrire ces trois cépages, 2) déterminer si le matérielvégétal planté récemment est représentatif de ces cépages, et dans ce cas3) étudier leurs potentiels agronomique et œnologique.

Méthodes et Résultats: La description ampélographique a été faite selonla méthode proposée par l’OIV (2009) et la reconstruction de la ‘feuillemoyenne’ selon la méthode de Martínez et Grenan (1999). On a aussianalysé 10 loci microsatellites. L’identité variétale des souches dans lesvignobles a été confirmée. Les potentiels agronomique et œnologique ontensuite été étudiés (fertilité, production et composition du moût et du vin).La caractérisation ampélographique et moléculaire nous a permis de détecterles synonymies suivantes: Blanco Legítimo = Albarín Blanco; Serradelo= Brancellao (Espagne) et synonyme Alvarelhão (Portugal) ; Agudelo= Chenin blanc.

Conclusion: Le matériel végétal de Blanco Legítimo et d’Agudelo plantérécemment dans la région de Betanzos a été sélectionné correctement parles viticulteurs.

Signification et impact de l´étude: L’indentification des synonymes ades répercussions sur l’exploitation commerciale de ces cépages. Lesimplications pour Blanco Legítimo sont relativement réduites puisque sessynonymes sont aussi cultivés dans des zones minoritaires; néanmoinspour Serradelo et Agudelo, ils sont plus sérieux parce que leurs synonymessont des cépages déjà largement cultivés. Ces résultats contribuent à uneplus grande connaissance de l'histoire et de la circulation des cépages enEurope.

Mots clés : ampélographie, histoire, ressources génétiques, Betanzos,synonymies

Abstract Résumé

manuscript received 8 September 2010 - revised manuscript received 2nd September 2011

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INTRODUCTION

The well documented work of Huet de Lemps (1967)on the wines and vineyards of northwestern Spain showsthat, in Medieval times, the only true vine-growing areaof the Province of A Coruña was that of Betanzos (Fig. 1).References to viticulture in the area go back as far asthe year 842 (Huet de Lemps, 1967). Writing in 1607,Cardinal Jerónimo del Hoyo (del Hoyo, 1607) describeshow, during a huge fire in 1569, the people from Betanzosbroke open their barrels to save the wine from the flames,causing it to flow like streams down the city’s streets.

Casares (1843) records the cultivation of a grapevinevariety known as Serradela in Galicia, although he doesnot mention the exact area where it was grown; he adds,however, that it was of little importance. The SpanishMinisterio de Fomento (1911), while informing of thearrival of phylloxera in Betanzos in 1907, also recordedthat varieties known as Serradelo, Ruibal, Moscatel,Algudelo and Albillo (the first two red, the rest white)were grown in the area at that time. The same ministerialreport indicates that there had been no replacement of thevineyards affected by phylloxera, even though the ministryhad been petitioned to allow a nursery producingAmerican vines to be established. García de los Salmones(1914) records the use of the varietal names Agudelo,Blanca Legítima, Roibal, Valdeorras and Serrade Negroin the Betanzos area, while Huet de Lemps (1967) recordsthe use of names such as Blanco Legítimo, Agudelo,Guedello and Roibal after the phylloxera crisis.

In the last 20 years of the 20th century, viticulturepractically ceased in the Betanzos area, and very fewelderly growers had conserved any old varieties - in fact,even their names had been almost forgotten. However,

between 1986 and 1992, the Spanish Research Council(Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas [CSIC])began a work to find and study old varieties of vinegrowing in Asturias and Galicia – including the Betanzosarea (Martínez, 2007). This led to the creation of the CSICgrapevine collection in 1993, which gathers together allthe varieties found in the above regions, including manyplants that were centuries old. These plants are maintainedat the Misión Biológica de Galicia (MBG) in the Provinceof Pontevedra. The collection contains varieties with thenames Blanco Legítimo, Serradelo and Agudelo foundin the Betanzos area.

Recent growth in interest in recovering Betanzos’viticultural tradition led to the protected geographicalindication Vinos de la Tierra de Betanzos (IGP) (Fig. 1)coming into being in the year 2000 (DOGA, 2000). Thisled some viticulturalists to plant what they supposed weregrapevines of the varieties Blanco Legítimo and Agudelo,collected from abandoned vineyards or very old isolatedplants. However, the true identity of these grapevines wasnot known for certain. A further problem was the fact thatit was not really known whether these varieties wereunique to the area or maybe local synonyms of varietiesgrown elsewhere. In 2007, these doubts led the FundaciónJuana de Vega (a non-profit organisation whose main aimsare the modernisation of agriculture and stock-raisingin Galicia and the provision of help in this respect) torequest our group to investigate these matters.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

1. Plant material

The reference material used in this work belonged tothree varieties of Vitis vinifera L thought to be traditional

Figure 1 - Area of the Vinos de la Tierra de Betanzos protected geographical indication (IGP).

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cultivars of the Betanzos area (Province of A Coruña,northwestern Spain): Blanco Legítimo, Agudelo (bothwhite) and Serradelo (red) (Fig. 1). The reference materialwas provided by 10 grapevines of each variety held in theCSIC collection at the MBG and grafted onto 110-Rrootstocks. All these plants were cultivated, trained andpruned in the same manner.

The identity of the supposed Blanco Legítimo andAgudelo plants in the newly planted vineyards waschecked by comparison with the above standards. Sixnew vineyards in the Betanzos area were selected and atotal of 203 supposed Blanco Legítimo and 50 supposedAgudelo plants were examined (Table 1). No supposedSerradelo plants had been planted, so no comparison withreference material was required for this variety.

2. Taking of samples and variables measured

a) Molecular characterisation

Cuttings were taken from the 10 reference plants ofeach variety in the MBG collection and from all 203supposed Blanco Legítimo and 50 supposed Agudeloplants in the vineyards during the dormancy phase of theannual cycle. DNA extraction, quantification, PCRreactions and the detection of amplification products wereperformed as described by Gago et al. (2009).

Varietal identities were confirmed via the examinationof the six simple sequence repeats (ssr) proposed by theInternational Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV):ssrVVS2 (Thomas and Scott, 1993), ssrVVMD5,ssrVVMD7 (Bowers et al., 1996), ssrVVMD27 (Bowerset al., 1999), ssrVrZAG62 and ssrVrZAG79 (Sefc etal., 1999); these have the corresponding OIV codes 801,802, 803, 804, 805 and 806 respectively (OIV, 2009). To

better determine the genotype of the reference material,four further ssrs were examined: ssrVVMD25,ssrVVMD28, ssrVVMD31 and ssrVVMD32 (Bowerset al., 1999). The variety Chardonnay was used as areference variety for the transformation of data and therecording of OIV codes (2009).

b) Ampelographic characterisation

- Green shoots, shoots and young leaves

During flowering, samples of green shoots, shootsand young leaves were taken, both from the referenceplants and the 203 supposed Blanco Legítimo and 50supposed Agudelo plants. The following variablessuggested by the OIV (OIV, 2009) were then measured:code 001, 002, 003, 004, 005, 016 and 051 (Table 2).

- Adult leaves

At bud setting and veraison, a leaf was taken at node8 from a fruiting shoot from each of the 10 reference plantsper variety. Ten leaves were also taken from each varietyin each of the six vineyards with the supposed BlancoLegítimo and Agudelo plants after rejecting any plant notconfirmed to belong to these varieties following themolecular analyses and ampelography of the young shoots.In all, a total of 21 Blanco Legítimo plants were rejected(Table 1); thus, 182 of the 203 plants examined had beencorrectly identified by the vine growers during the winterat the moment of the sampling. No Agudelo plant wasrejected since all had been correctly identified by theplanters.

The following OIV variables were measured (OIV,2009): code 067, 068, 069, 070, 071, 076, 077, 078, 079,080, 081-1, 081-2, 082, 083-1, 083-2, 084, 085, 086, 087,088, 089, 090, 091, 093 and 094 (Table 2). The variablesrequired for the reconstruction of mean leavesrepresentative of each variety in each vineyard were thenmeasured, following the method of Martínez and Grenan(1999).

- Clusters and berries

At fruit ripening, all the clusters on all 182 confirmedBlanco Legítimo and 50 confirmed Agudelo plants wereharvested separately from each vineyard. From each ofthese lots, 10 clusters and 50 berries per variety wereselected. The following OIV-recommended variableswere then recorded (OIV, 2009): code 204, 208, 209, 222,223, 225, 226, 227, 229, 231, 232, 235, 236 and 240(Table 2).

c) Agronomic characterisation

The total number and production (kg berries/plant) ofclusters produced by each variety in each vineyard was

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Table 1. Vineyards included in the studyand number of plants checked.

1For location see Fig. 1 2In parentheses is noted the number of individuals rejected becausethey do not match up with the studied varieties.

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Table 2. Variables proposed by the OIV (2007) for the description of young shoots, shoots, young and mature leaves, clusters and berries in the three studied cultivars.

(Mo= Mode; Max-Min= maximum and minimum values from three year data).

Mo= Mode; Max-Min= maximum and minimum values from three year data

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recorded. Fertility indices were determined from thenumber of buds left on the plant after pruning and fromthe total number of clusters, using the following formula:

Index of fertility = (number of clusters / number ofbuds) x 10

Ten representative clusters were selected among thetotal production of each variety in each vineyard, and theirweight (g), length and width (cm) measured.

d) Oenological characterisation

The ripening of the fruit was monitored for severalweeks before harvest in each vineyard. Harvesting beganon the same day (in October) in all vineyards when it wasdeemed that the majority of clusters had reached optimumripeness. The harvest from each vineyard was thengathered together by variety and wine made. Thewinemaking process involved:

- Crushing and destemming;

- Addition of Aromax® (7 g/100 kg) (ascorbic andsulphuric acids);

- Pressing in a hydropneumatic press, adding theenzyme Vinozym FCE® for later racking;

- Static racking at 10 ºC for 24 h;

- Fermentation after the addition of selected, driedSaccharomyces cerevisiae (20 g/hl) (Excellence FW =FRUITYWINE from Lamothe-Abiet®);

- Fermentation, controlling temperature (18 ºC) anddensity;

- Décuvage at the end of fermentation and correctionwith sulphuric acid (20 mg/L);

- Conservation at 10 ºC.

Following crushing and destemming the must of bothvarieties was analysed to determine the probable alcoholcontent (%), total acidity (g/L tartaric acid), the pH, andthe tartaric and malic acid contents (g/L). The resultingwines were analysed using official analysis methods (CErule 2676/90) except for the measurement of alcoholcontent, total acidity, volatile acidity, pH and sugars, forwhich an FTIR analyser (Foss 120) was used.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Table 2 shows the ampelographic results for the threevarieties examined. Figure 2 shows the mean leavesreconstructed for each variety in each vineyard using themethod of Martínez and Grenan (1999). Figure 3 showsphotographs of the shoots, clusters and berries of the threevarieties. Table 3 shows the size of the alleles for each ofthe 10 ssr loci analysed and the coding of the resultsaccording to the OIV system (OIV, 2009). Table 4 showsthe mean values of the agronomic and oenologicalvariables examined for Blanco Legítimo and Agudelo.

The majority (182/203; 89.66%) of supposed BlancoLegítimo plants examined were found to have beencorrectly identified by their planters. Their ampelographicand molecular characteristics coincided with those of thereference material held in the CSIC collection. All of thesupposed Agudelo grapevines examined had beencorrectly identified.

Neither Blanco Legítimo nor Agudelo was found tobe exclusive to the Betanzos area. Rather, they were foundto be synonyms of other varieties grown in Galicia, otherparts of Spain and even beyond. As suggested by Santiagoet al. (2005) and Gago et al. (2009), Blanco Legítimo wasfound to be a synonym of Albarín Blanco (cultivated in



Figure 2. Average leaves of Agudelo (A), Blanco Legítimo (B) and Serradelo (C) following the method of Martinez and Grenan (1999) from the different vineyards.

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the Cangas del Narcea area, in the southwest of theAsturias region), Blanco Verdín (cultivated in the Ibiasarea, in the southwest of the Asturias region), Raposo(cultivated in the Boiro area, in the southwest of theProvince of A Coruña, Galicia) and Blanco País(cultivated in the Negueira de Muñiz area, in the northwestof the Province of Lugo, Galicia). A comparison of theampelographic data for Blanco Legítimo and AlbarínBlanco (described in Martínez and Pérez, 1999, 2000;Boso et al., 2010), and Blanco Verdín (described inMartínez et al., 2002, 2007) confirmed slight differencesin terms of pubescence and the pigmentation of the mainveins, etc. These might reflect clonal differences sinceBlanco Legítimo is originally from a coastal area whilethe clones of Blanco Verdín examined were from inlandand more mountainous areas.

Comparison of the ampelographic data for Agudelowith those recorded by other authors (Galet, 1962, 2000;Institut Français de la Vigne et du Vin, 2007), and thecomparison of this variety’s molecular data withinformation held in international databases (GrapeMicrosatellite Collection, http://meteo.iasma.it/genetica/

gmc.html; Greek Vitis Database, http://gvd.biology.uoc.gr/gvd/index.htm; Swiss Vitis Microsatellite Database,www1.unine.ch/svmd/; European Vitis Database,www.genres.de/eccdb/vitis/) showed that Agudelo is infact a synonym of Chenin blanc, a variety originally fromthe area of Val de Loire in France (Institut Français dela Vigne et du Vin, 2007), where it has long beencultivated. According to Galet (1962), Chenin blanc hasbeen grown around Anjou since at least 845; currentlyit is the fifth most grown white variety in France (Galet,2000). It is also cultivated in the Spanish Denominationof Origin areas of Alella, Conca de Barberá, Penedés andPriorat.

The ampelographic and molecular data for Serradelo(thought to be from the Betanzos area but not currentlycultivated) showed it to be a synonym of Albarello (seeGago et al., 2009), which, according to the latter authors,is also a synonym of the Portuguese variety Alvarelhãodescrived by Truel (1983). The molecular profile ofSerradelo also coincided with that of Albarello describedby Díaz-Losada et al. (2008, 2010), and with thePortuguese Alvarelhão in Castro et al. (2011) and Martin


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Figure 3. Typical shoot, cluster and berries for Agudelo (AG), Blanco Legítimo (BL) and Serradelo (SE).

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et al. (2011), which these authors also indicate to be asynonym of Brancellao from Galicia. This synonymybetween Serradelo and Albarello is reported here forthe first time. The Albarello variety is one of the longestgrown in Galicia, and is considered one of its best redwine grapevines (Labrada, 1804; Casares, 1843). In the19th century, Casares (1843) indicated Albarello to be asynonym of Brencellao, which he recorded as being thenone of the most abundant in the Galician winemakingareas of Ribeiro, Amandi, Lemos, Quiroga, Valdeorrasand Monterrei. Abela and Sainz de Andino (1885) alsospeak of Albarello being cultivated in Orense, and of avariety known as Albarella grown in the province ofA Coruña. Fernández-Crespo (1897) also records the useof the name Albarello, which he indicates to besynonymous with Brencellao, which in turn he seemsto identify as being the same as a variety he spells as“Sirat” that could be Syrah [direct quote: “El Brencellaoo Alvarello (Sirat en Burdeos)… produce los afamadosvinos de Amandi y Peares”]. However, molecular (Sefcet al., 2000; SIVVEM database: http://www.sivvem.monbyte.com/sivvem.asp) and ampelographic compari-sons (Ministère de l’Agriculture, 1995; Galet, 2000) ofAlbarello or Serradelo with Syrah show that they are notthe same. Notwithstanding, the coincidence of at leastone allele of each of the six OIV ssrs examined (OIV,2009) indicates they bear some relationship.

Although Albarello was once very important, the nameis currently almost in disuse; indeed, it does not evenappear in the official Spanish list of commercial grapevinevarieties (BOE nº84, 2002), although this list still containsthe little used synonym of Brancellao.

The identification of these synonymies hasimplications at the level of our knowledge of grapevine

germplasm, and could also help to complete the historyof cultivars in northwest Iberian Peninsula. Despite theirgeographical neighbouring, the genetic relationship amongthe main French and Spanish grapevine varieties is stillnot well known. In fact, recently, Boursiquot et al. (2009)have found that Cabernet Franc is related to two othervery old and minor cultivars from Basque Country(western part of the Pyrenees), Morenoa and Txakoli; sothis new information about the Chenin blanc should betaken into account in the future studies of the origin andrelationships among several cultivars from France andthe atlantic zone in Spain.

From a more practical point of view, the identificationof these synonymies has also implications at the levelof the commercial exploitation of these varieties. Despitethe several synonyms discovered for Blanco Legítimo,this variety should maintain its commercial interest sinceall these synonyms are grown in small, nearby areas.Further, Blanco Legítimo is virtually unknown in theinternational arena despite its good winemaking qualities.The synonyms of Serradelo and Agudelo, however, aremuch better known internationally. Alvarelhão, thePortuguese synonym of Serradelo, is quite well known,while Chenin blanc, the synonym of Agudelo, is one ofthe world’s most important varieties. It has long beencultivated in the Loire Valley, and in the second half ofthe 20th century it made its way to the new winemakingregions of California, South Africa and New Zealand.This could have a serious effect on any attemptedcommercialisation of these varieties’ wines.

The agronomic and oenological data recorded(Table 4) show that, while Blanco Legítimo is less fertilethan Agudelo (its clusters are smaller and lighter), themust of its berries and the wine that can be produced from



Table 3. Allele sizes (bp) at 10 loci in the three grapevine cultivars analysed. Profile for the same cultivarsfollowing the OIV codification (OIV, 2007). (1Notation of the OIV: BA1 means short allele of Barbera N 1, SI2).

1OIV notation: BA1 means short allele of Barbera N1, SI2 means long allele of Silvaner B2, etc.2Chardonnay is the example cultivar runned as standard within the SSR analysis.

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it are of better quality. Blanco Legítimo reaches optimumripening before Agudelo and is much more aromatic (ithas a marked Moscatel aroma). Agudelo wines have lessalcohol and are of greater acidity. It should be rememberedthat the area of Betanzos (43º16´N, 8º12´W, altitude200 m) lies on the limit of where grapes can be growngiven the reigning climatic conditions (annual rainfall909 mm, mean annual temperature 12.1 ºC, thermalamplitude 9.6 ºC) (Martínez and Pérez, 2000), requiringthat these grapevines be carefully nurtured if balancedwines with commercial potential are to be obtained.

CONCLUSIONS

The supposed Blanco Legítimo and Agudelograpevines recently planted in vineyards of the Betanzosregion match ampelographically and molecularly withreference plants of the same names held in the CSICgrapevine collection at the MBG. The varieties Blanco

Legítimo, Agudelo and Serradelo, which are cited fromlong ago as varieties cultivated in the Betanzos area, arein fact synonyms of local names used in nearby areas(Blanco Legítimo = Albarín Blanco in Asturias; Serradelo= Brancellao in other parts of Galicia) and indeed of someinternationally known names (Agudelo = Chenin blancof France; Serradelo = Alvarelhão of Portugal). Theidentification of Blanco Legítimo, Agudelo and Serradeloas synonyms of international varieties has repercussionsfor their commercial exploitation. The implications forBlanco Legítimo are relatively reduced since its synonymsare also grown in minority areas and are in the process ofbeing recovered for commercial purposes. For Serradelo,however, which was found to be a synonym of a widelyplanted Portuguese variety, they are more serious, as theyare for Agudelo, which was found to be a synonym ofChenin blanc, a variety widely grown in France and certainparts of Spain. The present results contribute to our


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Table 4. Mean values of agronomic and oenological variables for Blanco Legítimo and Agudelo.

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knowledge of the history and movement of grapevinecultivars in Europe.

Acknowledgements: This work was partly funded by the phytogeneticresource grants awarded to our group over the years (RF99-010; RF02-004-C5-2; RF2008-00002-C02). Over the last three years, fundingwas supplied by the Fundación Juana de Vega. The authors thankElena Zubiaurre, Iván González and Maria Soledad Taboada fortechnical assistance. This manuscript has been translated by aprofessional translator (Adrian Burton).

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