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Trinity Apparel Fitting Guide - Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION: A SUGGESTED APPROACH TO FITTING ......................................................................................................................................................... 5
3‐STEP PROCESS TO FITTING AJACKET .......................................................................................................................................................... 6
FIT SELECTION ...................................................................................................................................... 7
Modern Fit (Trim fit) .......................................................................................................................... 7
Classic Fit (Regular fit) ....................................................................................................................... 7
Relaxed Fit (Easy fit) .......................................................................................................................... 7
CORE MEASUREMENTS ........................................................................................................................ 8
Chest ................................................................................................................................................. 8
Point to Point ..................................................................................................................................... 9
Half Back .......................................................................................................................................... 10
Half Girth .......................................................................................................................................... 11
Outsleeve ......................................................................................................................................... 11
Coat Length ..................................................................................................................................... 12
POSTURE ............................................................................................................................................. 12
Erect ................................................................................................................................................ 13
Head Forward ................................................................................................................................. 14
Stooping .......................................................................................................................................... 15
SHOULDERS ......................................................................................................................................... 16
High Shoulders ................................................................................................................................ 17
Sloping Shoulders ........................................................................................................................... 18
Low Shoulder .................................................................................................................................. 19
Shoulder Readings Explained ......................................................................................................... 19
PICK ‘N CLICK ALTERATIONS ................................................................................................................... 21
Slight / Moderate / Maximum Alteration Values ................................................................................ 21
CHEST DESCRIPTION OVERVIEW ..................................................................................................... 22
Full Chest ........................................................................................................................................ 22
Flat Chest ....................................................................................................................................... 23
STOMACH DESCRIPTION OVERVIEW .............................................................................................. 24
Stout / Portly .................................................................................................................................. 24
Low Corpulent ................................................................................................................................ 25
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SEAT DESCRIPTION OVERVIEW ........................................................................................................... 26
Prominent Seat .............................................................................................................................. 26
Flat Seat ......................................................................................................................................... 27
Sway Back....................................................................................................................................... 28
NECK LENGTH / COLLAR POSITION ..................................................................................................... 29
Short Neck / Lower Collar .............................................................................................................. 29
Long Neck / Raise Collar ................................................................................................................. 29
COLLAR LENGTH .................................................................................................................................. 30
Shorten Collar ................................................................................................................................ 30
Lengthen Collar .............................................................................................................................. 31
SHOULDER POSITION .......................................................................................................................... 31
Shoulders Forward ......................................................................................................................... 31
Shoulders Back ............................................................................................................................... 32
ARM POSITION .................................................................................................................................... 32
Arms Forward ................................................................................................................................ 32
Arms Back ...................................................................................................................................... 33
ARMHOLE DEPTH OVERVIEW ............................................................................................................. 33
Raise Armhole ................................................................................................................................ 33
Lower Armhole............................................................................................................................... 34
SLEEVE CIRCUMFERENCE .................................................................................................................... 34
Increase and Decrease Bicep Circumference ................................................................................. 35
Increase and Decrease Sleeve End Circumference ........................................................................ 35
Reduce / Clean Chest ..................................................................................................................... 35
STRAP LENGTH .................................................................................................................................... 36
Lengthen Strap ............................................................................................................................... 36
Shorten Strap ................................................................................................................................. 36
TOP BUTTON POSITION ...................................................................................................................... 37
Raise or Lower Top Button ............................................................................................................ 37
3‐STEP PROCESS TO FITTING A PANT .......................................................................................................... 38
FIT SELECTION ..................................................................................................................................... 38
Classic Fit (Regular fit) ................................................................................................................... 39
Modern Fit (Trim fit) ..................................................................................................................... 39
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CORE MEASUREMENTS ....................................................................................................................... 39
Waist .............................................................................................................................................. 39
Seat ................................................................................................................................................ 40
Outseams ....................................................................................................................................... 40
Rise ................................................................................................................................................. 41
Knee & Bottom............................................................................................................................... 41
PICK ‘N CLICK ALTERATIONS ........................................................................................................................ 42
SEAT DESCRIPTION OVERVIEW ........................................................................................................... 42
Prominent Seat .............................................................................................................................. 42
Flat Seat ......................................................................................................................................... 43
WAISTBAND POSITION OVERVIEW ..................................................................................................... 44
Lower Front Waistband ................................................................................................................. 44
Raise Front Waistband ................................................................................................................... 44
Lower Back Waistband ................................................................................................................... 45
Raise Back Waistband .................................................................................................................... 45
Seat Darts ....................................................................................................................................... 46
THIGH ADJUSTMENT ........................................................................................................................... 46
Let Out Thigh .................................................................................................................................. 46
Take In Thigh .................................................................................................................................. 47
LEG SHAPE ........................................................................................................................................... 47
Reduce Peg ..................................................................................................................................... 47
KNEE SHAPE ........................................................................................................................................ 48
Bow Legged .................................................................................................................................... 48
Knock Knee ..................................................................................................................................... 48
STANCE ................................................................................................................................................ 49
Hips Forward .................................................................................................................................. 49
Prominent Calves ........................................................................................................................... 49
CONCLUSION ............................................................................................................................................... 50
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INTRODUCTION: A SUGGESTED APPROACH TO FITTING
The vast majority of men’s tailored clothes are purchased off the rack in ready‐to‐wear sizes because
most men don’t require major alterations.
Knowing this, a suggested approach would be to focus on determining the basic core measurements
first, rather than instantly looking for reasons to conclude a person is hard to fit.
The Fitting process is less about measuring and more about making good decisions. A tape measure is
simply one of the tools to use along with spec charts, your eyes and good judgment. Whenever
possible, use try‐on garments to determine whether a client needs any adjustments from a standard
size. You will often find that they need less adjustments than originally thought based on
measurements alone.
Ask what sizes your client normally wears off the rack and what alterations are typically required. If a
client tells you “I can never find pants that fit me well at the waist when they fit well at the seat” you
now have valuable information to consider when you take your measurements and have them try on a
pant.
Manage your client’s expectations by letting them know that first‐fitting tweaks are not unusual. If you
get it perfect on the first fitting you have now exceeded their expectation and look even more
professional.
This fitting guide has been put together to be used in combination with our specification charts to assist
you to make good decisions when fitting your clients. A good rule of thumb when it comes to
alterations is “less is more”. When fitting a new client for the first time, try to avoid using too many
alterations, since the resulting repercussions will be harder to fix with local alterations afterward.
We hope you find this fitting guide useful and it serves as an ongoing reference tool for you.
Sincerely,
Trinity Apparel
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3-STEP PROCESS TO FITTING A JACKET
The task of fitting a jacket can be broken down into 3 Steps: Fit Selection, Core Measurements, and Pick
‘n Click Alterations. The diagram below provides an overview of this 3‐step process.
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FIT SELECTION
Selecting the right fit type for your client creates the foundation for the overall fit. Generally speaking,
you determine the fit type by discussing your client’s preferences for fashion and comfort, and match
their preferences to the appropriate fit type.
Modern Fit (Trim fit)
As you will notice by comparing the specifications chart of the Modern (Trim) Fit vs. Classic (Regular) Fit,
the Modern Fit has 4 inches of fit allowance added to the Chest vs. 5 inches for Classic Fit. The other
main difference is a trimmer armhole, bicep and sleeve end. The Modern Fit is best suited to a person
who wants their clothes to fit closer to their body, particularly in the chest and armhole area. Typically,
this is a person with an overall lean physique.
Note: while a muscular or heavy‐set person may want a close fit, if they have very large biceps you may
want to use the Classic Fit and then go with a smaller size (by decreasing the chest measurement) so
that you end up with a bit more room in the armhole and bicep area.
Classic Fit (Regular fit)
As previously mentioned, the Classic Fit has 5 inches of fit allowance at the Chest. This fit allowance will
be suitable for the majority of men. The Classic Fit is typically suited to men who look for a clean fit that
is comfortable. They generally prefer a balance between comfort and fashion and are less interested in
having their clothes fit close to the body.
Relaxed Fit (Easy fit)
The Relaxed Fit has 6 inches of fit allowance at the Chest and the largest armhole, bicep and sleeve end.
This fit type is best suited to a man who either prefers a somewhat oversized look, or simply prefers
comfort over fashion and does not want to feel the clothes close to the body. In today’s marketplace
this is the least common set of preferences.
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CORE MEASUREMENTS
The majority of men’s tailored clothing is purchased off‐the‐rack because most men are not that difficult
to fit. When you do a good job with the Core Measurements you can fit most men successfully without
needing to use the Pick ‘n Click Alterations. It is strongly recommended that you order and use try‐on
garments to conduct your fittings. There is no easier, and more reliable way to make good decisions
about your Core Measurements.
Chest
When taking your client’s Chest measurement be sure the tape is parallel to the floor all the way around, and measure him at the largest part of his chest. The tape does not need to be loose.
For most men who like a Classic fit the Chest Size you will order will match their skin Chest measurement. If you have a try‐on garment start with the size that matches their skin chest measurement. If the front of the garment fits well at the chest area, this is the size you should order. If it appears looser or tighter than preferred, try a size up or down. The try‐on size that looks best at the chest area is the Chest measurement you should use for your order.
If a try‐on garment is not available, but your customer has a favorite jacket, you can determine the Finished Chest of their jacket in a similar way you would for a shirt.
Lay the coat on a flat surface and fasten the top button. Flip up the collar and lay the lapel flat. The lapel edge should be vertically straight as shown to the right. Do not pull excessively on the jacket as you will get a larger measurement since there is no button to fasten at chest level.
Measure from armpit to armpit and then double your measurement to arrive at the finished chest. Look in our garment spec charts and order the size that has the same finished chest measurement as the favorite jacket.
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Point to Point The easiest way to determine a good Point to Point for your client is to measure a try‐on jacket or the client’s favorite jacket. As shown to the right, measure from shoulder seam to seam, approximately 1 inch under the collar. If the jacket you have available to measure is too large, you can use pins or a binder clip like the ones shown below to pinch in the collar to simulate a smaller point to point before you measure.
As shown to the right a good width for the Point to Point will meet with the end of the client’s shoulders. When looking at your client from the front, look at the line created by the sleeve seam going vertically from the armpit up to the top of the shoulder. The idea is to create a good angle for the sleeve seam so that the client’s arms can move forward without (too much) restriction. If the Point to Point is too wide, it can become LESS comfortable because the sleeve seam angle will be working against the client’s body. For a client who wants a very trim fit, it is not unusual to see the side of the client’s arm pushing against the side of the sleeve just below the top of the sleeve head.
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Half Back
The Half Back is taken from the intersection where the sleeve seam meets the back panel, horizontally across to the center back seam. For a man who prefers a Classic Fit, it is common to have some wrinkles or gathering of fabric at the sleeve seam and below it closer to the armpit. Some excess fabric there provides comfort for the client as he moves his arms forward. Avoid the temptation to try to remove all the excess by making the Half Back too small. If the Point to Point looks fine and there is a lot of excess at the armpit, you may want to use a smaller Chest size so that the overall garment is a little smaller at armpit level.
You can see in the image to the right that there is a close relationship between the Half Back and Point to Point because the Half Back is only a handful of inches below. NOTE: When you multiply your desired half back measurement x 2, it cannot be larger than the point to point or smaller than the point to point minus 1.25” Large changes to the half back affect the shape of the sleeve opening and make it difficult to sew the sleeve into place correctly.
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Half Girth The Half Girth is taken from the center back seam to the front edge of the coat at the height of the fastening button. This will be the top button on a 2 button coat, and the middle button on a 3 button coat (as shown to the right). Use a try‐on garment or the customer’s favorite jacket and determine the adjustment you need. Then add (or subtract) half of the total adjustment amount required to the Half Girth measurement of the coat tried on. If a try‐on is not available the following formula will produce a good Half Girth for almost any man: (Coatwaist + Seat) divided by 4 Then….
Add 2” for Classic Fit
Add 1 ½” for Modern Fit
Add 1” for Ultra‐Modern Fit
Outsleeve The Outsleeve measurement is the length from the top of the sleeve head down to the end of the sleeve. Typically a good sleeve length will show ¼” to ½” of shirt cuff, however this is often a personal preference you should discuss with your client. If the jacket you are using to determine the sleeve length has a Point to Point that is too wide, use pins or a binder clip to pinch in the collar and simulate the desired Point to Point before you take the Outsleeve measurement, otherwise the sleeves will be too short when the coat arrives. When taking a sleeve measurement from your client’s favorite jacket you should take an OUTSLEEVE (vs. insleeve) measurement since your client’s jacket may have a different armhole depth. Outsleeve is the most accurate measurement from garment to garment.
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Coat Length The coat length is taken from the bottom of the felt undercollar down to the desired length. Today, more than ever, coat length is a very personal preference. Please reference the Specification charts as a guideline but discuss your customer’s preferences and whenever possible measure a coat the client already prefers.
POSTURE There are two methods for determining a client’s posture:
1. Using a Perkins Incline Device
2. Observing a Try‐On Garment
The Workflo ordering system is setup to allow you to enter the incline reading from your Perkins device
and automatically selects the corresponding Posture alteration as shown in the screenshot below.
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The Perkins Incline Device is a useful tool, especially if a try‐on garment is not available, however it is not
a fool‐proof solution. If you use Perkins Tools you should still compare the device readings by observing
a jacket on the client and see if the device readings confirm what you see with the jacket.
NOTE: If you are using the client’s own jacket for reference, be sure to ask if the jacket was purchased
off‐the‐rack or was made for him, and if he can recall whether major alterations were performed.
Observing a jacket made for the client may have already had posture alterations applied to it and may
not show you posture‐related symptoms that require correction.
The following are the posture types the Workflow system has alterations for along with a description of
the symptoms, causes and solutions for each:
Erect
What you will see:
From the side view, the fronts of the coat will appear shorter than the back and the fronts may “float” away from the body.
From the front view the fronts of the coat will come closer together from the top button downward. The fronts may even touch or overlap.
The back of the coat will likely be resting against the client’s seat, potentially causing the vents to open. Depending on the severity of the client’s posture, there may also be a roll under the collar.
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Why you see it: The client has an upright, military‐like stance. Their back will be straighter or flatter than most men. If you do not have a jacket to observe the symptoms above, open a door half‐way and have your customer stand with his back against it in a natural position and take his picture so you can diagnose the situation at your convenience afterward. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: The balance of the coat is shifted with more length given to the front of the coat, and length taken away from the back. The length is applied and taken away at the top of the coat at, and just below the collar, not at the bottom hem. The result is that the coat will have a proper balance.
Head Forward What you will see: The jacket collar will be resting away from the shirt collar creating an empty space between the jacket and shirt collar. From the side view the front to back balance of the coat length will appear normal (the front will be slightly longer than the back). If the customer also has a long neck the jacket collar may be resting low on the shirt collar as well.
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Why you see it: The customer has a normal posture overall, but their neck and head are simply leaning forward more than usual. Their neck may also be thinner than usual, but not necessarily. It is common to confuse a head forward posture with Stooping. The tell‐tale difference is looking at the coat length balance at the bottom of the coat. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: The jacket collar is shortened (made smaller) so that it will sit closer to the client’s shirt collar. Note: The collar is NOT raised or lowered so if the jacket collar was resting low against the shirt, you will need to also RAISE the collar with the “Collar Position” Pick ‘n Click alteration.
Stooping What you will see: From the side view the back of the coat will appear shorter than the front than usual. The back of the coat will likely “fly away” (be loose) from the seat and the front of the coat may be resting against the body. From the front view, the fronts of the coat will open more than usual from the top button downward. The collar will likely be resting low in relation to the shirt collar, and possibly sitting away from the collar as well.
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Why you see it: The client has a rounded back and their overall posture is leaning forward from the waist up. This posture is often seen with men in their mature‐aged years. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: The balance of the coat is shifted with more length given to the back of the coat, and length taken away from the front. The length is applied and taken away at the top of the coat at, and just below the collar, not at the bottom hem. The resulting effect is that the coat has a proper balance. If the collar was also sitting away from the shirt collar, you may need to shorten the collar with the “Collar Length” Pick ‘n Click alteration.
SHOULDERS There are two methods for determining a client’s shoulder adjustment requirements:
1. Using a Perkins Shoulder Reading Device
2. Observing a Try‐On Garment
Workflo is setup to allow you to enter
the Left and Right shoulder readings
from your Perkins device and it
automatically selects the correct
corresponding shoulder descriptions as
shown in the screenshot to the right.
If you do not use Perkins Tools you can
either select the Shoulder Description
manually from the dropdowns, or
choose a shoulder reading from the
dropdown that gives you the description
you want. The shoulder readings are
how you can advise that a client has one
shoulder lower and to what degree.
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The Perkins Shoulder Reading Device is a useful tool, especially if a try‐on garment is not available,
however it is not a fool‐proof solution. If you use Perkins Tools you should still compare the device
readings by observing a jacket on the client and see if the device readings confirm what you see with the
jacket.
NOTE: If you are using the client’s own jacket for reference, be sure to ask if the jacket was purchased
off‐the‐rack or was made for him, and if he can recall whether major alterations were performed.
Observing a jacket made for the client may have already had shoulder and/or collar alterations
applied to it and may not show you shoulder‐related symptoms that require correction.
The following are the shoulder types our system has alterations for along with a description of the
symptoms, causes and solutions for each:
High Shoulders What you will see: From the back view there will likely be a gathering or “roll” of fabric under the collar. Quite often a client with high shoulders also has a shorter neck and there will likely be less than the normal amount of shirt collar showing as well. Depending on the degree of alteration required, the collar may also appear to be resting more loosely against the shirt collar.
Why you see it: The client’s shoulder angle is more straight‐across than the angle of the coat’s shoulders. The result is that the ends of the client’s shoulders push up on the coat’s shoulders, causing the collar to ride up on the shirt collar. When the jacket collar has nowhere else to go but up, you get the roll of fabric under the collar. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: The top points of the coat’s shoulders are lowered making the shoulder angle more square or straight‐across. This effectively lowers the collar position as well, relieving the pressure and removing the roll of fabric under the collar.
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Sloping Shoulders What you will see: The coat will “buckle” creating excess gathering of fabric at the armpit level at the back and possibly the front of the coat as well, depending on the degree of the client’s shoulder slope. It is very common for a client with sloping shoulders to also have a long neck and you will see more shirt collar above the jacket’s collar than usual.
Why you see it: The client’s shoulder angle is more downward sloping than the angle of the coat’s shoulder. The result is a lack of support for the end of the coat’s shoulders and gravity takes over. The coat’s shoulders rest on the client’s lower shoulder ends, creating the gathering of fabric around the armpits at the back and possibly at the front as well. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: The top points of the coat’s shoulders are raised making the shoulder angle more sloped to better match the client’s shoulder angle. This effectively raises the collar position as well. Now the client’s shoulders will support the coat’s shoulders better and eliminate all or most of the gathering at the armpits. Note: Sometimes the gathering at the armpits is caused by using a coat size that is too large. Sloping the shoulders is not the correct solution for this. Resolve the issue by reducing the chest size and possibly reducing the point to point and half back as well.
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Low Shoulder Whether your client has High, Regular or Sloping Shoulders it is not uncommon for one of their
shoulders to be lower than the other at the end of the shoulder. Regardless of whether you use Perkins
Tools to obtain Shoulder Readings, the Shoulder Reading L/R dropdowns are how you specify which
shoulder is lower in the Workflo ordering system.
In the screenshot example below you will see that the Shoulder Reading L dropdown is set to 2 ¼” and
the Shoulder Reading R dropdown is set to 2 ½”. Even though the Shoulder Description for each of
these settings is “Regular”, the end of the right shoulder is understood to be lower than the left and our
system will generate the appropriate alteration.
Shoulder Readings Explained If you have been using a Perkins Shoulder Device you will already be familiar with how the Shoulder
Readings work. This section is to provide an explanation for people who don’t use Perkins tools.
Below is an image of the Perkins Shoulder Device. As you can see it has readings ranging from 1” to 3 ½”
just like the Shoulder Reading L/R dropdowns in the Workflo ordering system. The device is placed on
the client’s (left and right) shoulder as shown in the illustration on the device to determine the drop
from the top to the end of the shoulder.
You can see this visualized in the illustration below the Perkins Device. If the client’s shoulder drop is
between 2 ½” to 2 ½” this is considered to be “Regular”. This explains the screenshot above, where
although the right shoulder is lower than the left, they are both considered “Regular”.
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The larger the number for the Shoulder Reading, the bigger the drop is from the top to the end of the
shoulder. As you make a selection from the Shoulder Reading dropdown in Workflo, you will see the
Shoulder Description change accordingly.
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If you are unsure whether your client’s shoulders are high, regular or sloping, but are certain that one is
lower than the other based on what you see with a try‐on garment, start by calling the higher one
Regular using 2 ¼” as your shoulder reading, and then adjust the other shoulder reading to indicate how
much lower it is.
PICK ‘N CLICK ALTERATIONS
Once you have made a Fit Selection and taken the Core Measurements your fitting should be complete
in most cases. However, from time to time you will encounter clients who may require additional
alterations.
It is strongly recommended to use the Pick ‘n Click alterations with caution and careful consideration. In
many cases the symptoms you see on a garment will be caused by the client’s posture or shoulder
angles. If you’ve already addressed the symptoms with Posture or Shoulder Readings you likely don’t
need additional alterations.
Slight / Moderate / Maximum Alteration Values
Since each alteration requires different considerations to determine appropriate maximum values, the
Workflow system uses a standardized way to define what you see when you observe your client’s
fitting needs.
This approach allows you to define the adjustments you need in plain English terms; Slight, Moderate,
Maximum. For each alteration, values have been assigned to the three terms to evenly distribute the
alteration range from zero to the maximum amount. This approach allows you to use your natural
instincts to decide what your client needs without having to get bogged down with numeric values.
Slight: When in doubt, your default choice should be NO alteration. However, if you choose to request
an alteration, this should be your choice. It will cure most mild fitting faults and should not cause you
irreparable trouble in most cases if you have made an incorrect decision.
Moderate: When you are certain that an alteration is needed, but uncertain as to the degree, this
should be your choice
Maximum: If your client’s fitting fault is blaringly obvious, he likely requires the maximum alteration.
Please note that certain alterations do not have Slight, Moderate, Maximum degrees, but instead are
only turned on or off.
The following section describes the symptoms, causes and solutions for each alteration.
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CHEST DESCRIPTION OVERVIEW When you put a tape measure around a client’s chest, the measurement you get obviously includes their
chest AND back. The tape goes around their entire body at chest height. However, not every man
carries their weight with the same body shape.
Think of a “normal” person having a 50/50 evenly balanced size distribution between the front and back
of their body. Some people might be heavier in the front and carry their size in a 60/40 distribution
favoring the front. Others might be heavier in the back and have a 40/60 distribution favoring the back.
Keep that thought in mind as you read about the Full Chest and Flat Chest alterations below.
Full Chest What you will see: From the front view the coat will appear small at the chest area because the jacket lapels are lifting away from the client’s chest. This creates a gap between the lapel and the client’s body and can possibly also create a pucker on each lapel approximately half way down the lapel. If you have a try‐on jacket in a size up have your client try that on and see how it looks. If that size looks too big, you should use the Full Chest alteration with the original try‐on size. In many cases, it is better to just use a larger Chest size.
Why you see it: The client has a prominent chest that protrudes out more than usual. It is more about the shape and distribution of the chest than measurement. How the alteration fixes the fit issue: A dart or “wedge” is cut out of the fabric under the lapel. When sewn back together it tightens up the lapel and brings it closer to the body. The shape of the dart also gives a shape to the lapel that accommodates the rounder chest shape.
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Flat Chest What you will see: From a front view, the chest of the coat will look too full and there will be excess material where the chest meets the sleeve and armhole. If you have a try‐on garment in a size down try that on and see how it looks. If that looks too small use the Flat Chest alteration with the original try‐on size. In most cases it is better to use a smaller Chest size and increase your half back by one size (if needed).
Why you see it: The client has a flat or sunken chest that doesn’t fill the garment up as much as someone with a normal chest shape. It is more about the shape than the measurement. They simply carry less of their skin chest measurement in the front. How the alteration fixes the fit issue: The front of the garment is made smaller at the area where the chest meets the sleeve and armhole, removing the excess and helping the garment lay better against the client’s chest.
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STOMACH DESCRIPTION OVERVIEW As it relates to fitting a man for a jacket, there are two types of large stomachs a man can have; one that
is very round and stays mostly above the beltline, or one that is large all the way down, including the
abdomen below the belt line. Keep that in mind as you read about the two Stomach Descriptions
below:
Stout / Portly What you will see: Below the client’s stomach, the coat is “floating” away from the body. Depending on the severity of the roundness of the stomach, the bottom of the fronts may have the appearance of flipping out forward. The red area shown to the right represents the hollow area not being filled by the client’s body. NOTE: The terms Stout and Portly mean the same thing.
Why you see it: The roundness of the stomach creates a hollow area directly below it where the jacket has nothing to rest against (as shown in red). How the alteration fixes the fit issue: A combination of two alterations are performed to bring the bottom of the coat closer to the client’s body. This alteration will have varying degrees of success depending on the client’s physique.
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Low Corpulent What you will see: Although the client has a large stomach, the coat will be resting against the body, even below the beltline.
Why you see it: The client’s large stomach continues below the beltline to the abdomen so there is no hollow area created between the coat and the body. How the alteration fixes the fit issue: In this case there is no fit issue. Selecting Low Corpulent simply confirms that the Stout alteration is NOT needed despite the client’s large stomach measurement.
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SEAT DESCRIPTION OVERVIEW The standard difference between a client’s waist and seat body measurement is 6 inches. When that
difference becomes 8 inches or more, you should consider using the Prominent Seat body description.
When the difference is 4 inches or less, you should consider using the Flat Seat body description.
The Prominent Seat jacket alteration adds fabric to the back of the jacket, and the Flat Seat alteration
takes fabric away from the back.
Prominent Seat What you will see: The jacket will appear tight at the seat and the vents will open more than usual even though the coat fastens well at the waist. Why you see it: The shape of the client’s seat pushes against the back of the jacket. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: The back panels are widened at the seat area, giving more room to the back of the jacket to cover the seat better and relive the pressure against the vents.
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Flat Seat What you will see: The jacket will appear loose at the back towards the bottom even though it fastens well at the waist. Why you see it: The client’s seat has less curve to it than normal so the back panels of the jacket don’t rest against the seat as they normally would. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: The back panels are made smaller at the seat area, helping to get the jacket to sit closer to the body at the seat. Note: Its common for a client to have a flat seat as well as a “Sway Back” stance. See next section for details about Sway Back.
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Sway Back What you will see: The coat will appear loose at the back at the bottom and can possibly appear tight at the front at the waist. The balance between the front and back length will appear normal. NOTE: The term Sway Back and the required alteration are sometimes misunderstood. The alteration required is not related to the shape of the upper portion of the back around the shoulder blades. The alteration relates to the LOWER back and ONLY affects the lower portion of the coat.
Why you see it: The client stands with his hips in a more forward position than usual, causing his lower back to look somewhat hollow, so the coat does not rest against the seat and looks loose. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: The back panels of the coat are made smaller at the bottom and the same amount is added to the front panels. The redistribution allows the coat to rest closer to the body at the back, and helps alleviate tension on the front at the waist.
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NECK LENGTH / COLLAR POSITION The Neck Length dropdown containing descriptions for Short Neck and Long Neck are NOT controlling
any specific alteration in our system. It is simply a way for you to describe your client’s neck. Neck
length is closely related to a potential need to adjust the Collar Position (Raise/Lower). For that reason
we will discuss both at the same time below.
Short Neck / Lower Collar What you will see: There will be a roll or gathering of fabric below the jacket collar and the collar will be covering up more of the shirt collar than usual. Why you see it: When the client’s neck is short there is downward pressure on the jacket collar that causes the roll. The shirt collar will sink down and you see less of it showing above the jacket collar.
How the Lower Collar alteration fixes the fit issue:
The top points of the shoulders are lowered at the back, and the collar is sewn on to the new, lowered
shoulder points. Use the Lower Collar alteration sparingly, especially if you have already requested an
alteration that effectively lowers the collar, like High Shoulders or Erect Posture. For example, if you
have already requested “High Shoulders Maximum”, it is likely you don’t need to also request to lower
the collar as an additional alteration.
Long Neck / Raise Collar What you will see: The jacket collar will be resting low in comparison to the shirt collar, revealing more shirt collar than usual. Why you see it: When the client’s neck is long, the shirt collar will tend to raise up and the jacket continues to rest in the same spot on the shoulders.
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How the alteration fixes the fit issue:
The top points of the shoulders are raised at the back and the collar is sewn on to the new, raised
shoulder points. Use the Raise Collar alteration sparingly, especially if you have already requested an
alteration that effectively raises the collar, like Sloping Shoulders or Stooping Posture. For example, if
you have already requested “Sloping Shoulders Maximum”, it is likely you don’t need to also request to
raise the collar as an additional alteration.
COLLAR LENGTH
Shorten Collar
What you will see:
The jacket collar will appear loose and sit away from the shirt collar.
The balance of the coat at the bottom will appear normal.
Why you see it:
This is typically caused by a Head Forward Posture. If you have already specified your customer’s Posture as Head Forward you do NOT need to request this alteration. Another cause is the client could have a very thin neck.
How the alteration fixes the fit issue:
The jacket collar is shortened (made smaller) so that it will sit closer to the client’s shirt collar.
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Lengthen Collar What you will see: Jacket collar appears small and there may be pressure folds (wrinkles) under the collar at each side due to tightness. Why you see it: Client has a thick neck in comparison to the rest of his body. How the alteration fixes the fit issue: Collar is lengthened so it relieves tightness causing the pressure folds.
SHOULDER POSITION Shoulders Forward What you will see: The front “points” of the client’s shoulders will be pushing against the front of the jacket and may cause tightness in the front shoulder area. You may also see a ridge of fabric along the top of the shoulder continuing under the collar. The shoulder may also look “wavy”. Why you see it: The client’s shoulders protrude forward more than most people. Sometimes caused by actual bone structure, but often simply a muscular shoulder that is thicker than most. How the alteration fixes the fit issue: The shoulder seam is angled more toward the front as shown to the right. This brings the sleeve head more toward the front and helps relieve the pressure at the front.
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Shoulders Back What you will see: Shoulder blade area of the jacket may have extra fabric gathering. Jacket collar may rest away from the shirt collar as well. Why you see it: Client’s shoulders are pitched backward more than most and put backward pressure on the coat’s shoulders. How the alteration fixes the fit issue: The shoulder seam is angled more toward the back as shown to the right. This brings the sleeve head more toward the back and helps relieve the pressure toward the back of the coat. NOTE: A person with a Shoulders Back stance will often also have an Erect Posture.
ARM POSITION Arms Forward What you will see: There will be creases/folds on the upper front portion of the sleeves. Why you see it: The client holds his arms more forward than most and his forearm and/or wrist area will be pushing forward on the sleeve. How the alteration fixes the fit issue: The sleeve is re‐pitched so that the angle accommodates the client’s forward‐pitched arms better.
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Arms Back What you will see: There will be creases / folds on the upper back portion of the sleeves. Why you see it: The client holds his arms more backward than most and the back of his arm pushes against the back of the sleeve. How the alteration fixes the fit issue: The sleeve is re‐pitched so that the angle accommodates the client’s backward‐pitched arms better.
ARMHOLE DEPTH OVERVIEW The armhole depth is very similar to the rise of a pant. When you have a pant with too long a rise, it
may feel comfortable when standing still because it is not close to body at the crotch. However, as soon
as you lift your leg it hits you across the thigh and becomes uncomfortable. An armhole that is too low
has a similar effect at the bicep so it needs to be raised to be more comfortable.
An armhole usually only needs to be deepened when the jacket bicep needs to be made larger by a
significant amount to accommodate the client’s large bicep.
Raise Armhole What you will see: When the client puts his arms forward, the bottom of the armhole appears to be restrictive against the bicep. Why you see it: The armhole is too low like a long rise on a pant as described above. How the alteration fixes the fit issue: Raising the armhole makes it fit closer to the body improving mobility. NOTE: The alteration actually takes place at the shoulder, not as shown
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Lower Armhole What you will see: The armhole appears to be riding up the client’s armpit even when his arms are in a relaxed position. Why you see it: The armhole is too shallow like a short rise on a pant. How the alteration fixes the fit issue: Lowering the armhole relieves the tightness against the client’s armpit.
SLEEVE CIRCUMFERENCE There is a direct relationship to maintain between the armhole depth and the bicep circumference. See
screenshots below:
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Increase and Decrease Bicep Circumference
When you DECREASE the bicep circumference you should RAISE the armhole. When you INCREASE the
bicep circumference, you should LOWER the armhole. It’s not mandatory that you do both alterations
together, but the Workflow system prevents you from doing the opposites together. Bigger armhole
goes with bigger bicep, smaller armhole goes with smaller bicep.
Increase and Decrease Sleeve End Circumference
Similar to the relationship between Armhole Depth and Bicep Circumference, there is a direct
relationship between the Bicep and Sleeve End Circumference. It’s not mandatory that you do both
alterations together, but the Workflow system prevents you from doing the opposites together. Bigger
sleeve end goes with bigger bicep, smaller sleeve end goes with smaller bicep.
Reduce / Clean Chest
Use of this alteration is best determined when you have a Trintiy try‐on garment to observe, or when
delivering your client’s first Trinity garment. You likely won’t realize the client needs the alteration until
you see a garment on him. The alteration is the same as the Flat Chest alteration, except you have 3
degrees of the Reduce Chest alteration to work with (Slight / Moderate / Max).
What you will see:
From a front view, the chest of the coat will look too full and there will be excess material where the chest meets the sleeve and armhole.
Why you see it:
The client has a flat or sunken chest that doesn’t fill the garment up as much as someone with a normal chest shape. It is more about the shape than the measurement. They simply carry less of their skin chest measurement in the front.
How the alteration fixes the fit issue:
The front of the garment is made smaller at the area where the chest meets the sleeve and armhole, removing the excess and helping the garment lay better against the client’s chest.
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STRAP LENGTH Lengthen Strap What you will see: Even though the client’s posture seems normal, the front of the coat seems short. Why you see it: The client has a large chest and/or stomach and there is not enough front length to cover. How the alteration fixes the fit issue: The strap (lapel) is lengthened to provide more front length coverage over the customer’s larger physique.
Shorten Strap What you will see: Even though the client’s posture seems normal, the front of the coat seems long. Why you see it: The client has a small chest and/or stomach and is not filling up the front of the coat. How the alteration fixes the fit issue: The strap (lapel) is shortened to reduce the front length coverage over the customer’s smaller physique.
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TOP BUTTON POSITION
Raise or Lower Top Button
Adjusting the top button position is purely an aesthetic decision.
At the time this documentation is being put together, the Workflow system allows you to enter a numeric value for your top button position (in the Coat Measurements section) or simply raise / lower the position using a pick n click dropdown (in the Coat Alterations section).
Using the pick n click dropdown will ensure that the resulting spacing between the buttons will look correct.
If you are providing a numeric value, we recommend you measure from the shoulder seam vs. the center back neck. Although the Workflow system allows for both, you will achieve most accurate results measuring from the shoulder.
When providing a numeric value, please refer to the spec charts to avoid requesting a top button position that is more than 1 ½” up or down from standard. This will ensure proper button spacing and lapel shape. It will also help prevent unnecessary delays in the Blue Pencil process.
When ordering a double breasted jacket, please reference the image to the right for the correct position to specify the top button measurement height.
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3-STEP PROCESS TO FITTING A PANT
Similar to fitting a jacket, the task of fitting a pant can also be broken down into 3 Steps: Fit Selection,
Core Measurements, and Pick ‘n Click Alterations. The diagram below provides an overview of this 3‐
step process:
FIT SELECTION
Selecting the right fit type for your client creates the foundation for the overall fit. Generally speaking,
you determine the fit type by discussing your client’s preferences for fashion and comfort, and match
their preferences to the appropriate fit type. When fitting a pant, keep in mind that our system’s
pattern size selection is based on your client’s SEAT measurement, NOT the waist measurement.
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Classic Fit (Regular fit)
When referring to our measurement spec charts you will see that the finished seat measurement is two
inches larger than the client’s skin seat measurement. This fit allowance or “ease” creates a
comfortable amount of room for most men, allowing for standard items to be placed in pockets.
Modern Fit (Trim fit)
When you select Trim Fit, the Workflo ordering system will select a one inch smaller seat size, which will
also result in a thigh measurement that is one size smaller than Regular Fit (1/2”). This selection will
complement the shape of a narrower trouser leg, which you can control by adjusting the knee and
bottom.
(Note: At the time of this documentation, there is only one Fit selection dropdown in the Body
Descriptions section of the ordering system. When ordering a suit (Coat and Pant together) the fit
selection you make will be applied to BOTH the jacket and pant. If you want a trim fit for the jacket,
but not for the pant, you should add one inch to your seat measurement.
CORE MEASUREMENTS
The majority of men’s tailored clothing is purchased off‐the‐rack because most men are not that difficult
to fit. When you do a good job with the Core Measurements you can fit most men successfully without
needing to use the Pick ‘n Click Alterations. We strongly recommend that you order and use try‐on
garments to conduct your fittings. There is no easier, and more reliable way to make good decisions
about your Core Measurements.
Waist To measure your client, slide the tape inside their waistband and pull the tape snugly, asking how it feels compared to how he likes his pant waistband to feel. Whenever possible use one of our try‐on garments or the customer’s favorite pant. To measure the finished waist of a pant, fasten the fly and waistband, and lay the pant on a flat surface. Place the tape measure along the top of
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the waistband from edge to edge and double your measurement. Note: Our system does NOT add anything to the waist measurement entered. Enter the FINISHED measurement needed.
Seat To measure your client, ask him to put his feet together, and measure around the fullest part of the seat. Be sure to keep the tape parallel to the floor and do NOT add any ease or looseness to the measurement. Whenever possible use one of our try‐on garments or the customer’s favorite pant to confirm their fit preference. To measure the finished seat of the pant fasten the fly and waistband and lay the pant on a flat surface. Measure across the fullest part of the seat, which is normally 1 to 2” above the bottom of the fly, then double your measurement. Note: To achieve the finished measurement needed, enter a seat measurement that is TWO inches smaller in the Workflo ordering system since the system will add two inches to the seat measurement when creating the pattern.
Outseams Pant length is a personal preference so you should consult with your client about the pant they are wearing to establish their preference. The Outseam is measured from the TOP of the waistband to the bottom of the pant, along the side seam. For the most accurate results, measure a pant on a flat surface as shown to the right and adjust +/‐ if necessary.
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Rise As shown in the image to the right, the rise is calculated by subtracting the Outseam minus the Inseam. If your client requires two different Outseam lengths, use the SHORTER of the two Outseams for your rise calculation. Whenever possible use a try‐on or your client’s favorite pant to determine the required rise. If an appropriate pant is not available, refer to the specification charts for standard rise measurements based on seat measurement and height. Then adjust accordingly based on your client’s preferences. Be cautious not to over‐adjust. ½” goes a long way with rise measurements.
Knee & Bottom With a pant on your client, measure from front crease to back crease at knee height and double your measurement. Do the same at the bottom of the pant for the bottom measurement. For the most accurate results, lay the pant on a flat surface. The knee measurement is taken approximately 2” above the half‐way point of the inseam length. Fold the bottom of the pant up to the crotch and measure the width 2” up from the fold. Then double your measurement. The bottom is simply taken at the end of the leg and then double your measurement.
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PICK ‘N CLICK ALTERATIONS Once you have made a Fit Selection and taken the Core Measurements your fitting should be complete
in most cases. However, from time to time you will encounter clients who may require additional
alterations.
We urge you to use the Pick ‘n Click alterations with caution and careful consideration. Only use Max
values in extreme cases.
SEAT DESCRIPTION OVERVIEW The standard difference between a client’s waist and seat body measurements is 6 inches. When that
difference becomes 8 inches or more, you should consider using the Prominent Seat body description.
When the difference is 4 inches or less, you should consider using the Flat Seat body description.
Prominent Seat What you will see: The pants appear tight at the seat and the waistband may seem to look loose at the back as it is pulled away and downward from the body. Why you see it: The shape of the client’s seat “consumes” the back rise of the pant, causing the waistband to not rest in its natural position against the waist. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: Lengthening the back rise and making the back panels proportionately larger than normal provides more room for the shape of the seat and allows the waistband to rest in its natural position against the back.
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Flat Seat What you will see: The pants will be loose in the back, particularly at the bottom of the “cheeks” and thigh area. There may possibly also be a gathering or roll of fabric below the waistband. Why you see it: The client’s seat has less curve to it than normal so the back panels of the pant are not filled as much as anticipated by the pattern. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: Shortening the back rise and making the back panels proportionately smaller removes the excess. NOTE: The Seat Description dropdown is located in the Body Descriptions section of the ordering system… not the Pant Alterations section.
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WAISTBAND POSITION OVERVIEW The waistband position alterations are used to adjust the height of the waistband in the front or back. It
is typical for the front waistband to appear lower than the back when observing your client from the
side view.
It is not mandatory to adjust the front and back waistband at the same time, however you can ONLY
perform the OPPOSITE adjustment at the same time. If you LOWER the FRONT you can only RAISE the
BACK, and vice‐versa.
Lower Front Waistband What you will see: There will be excess creases / folds gathering below the waistband in the front. In extreme cases the pant will also be tight against the front of the thighs. Why you see it: The client’s stomach is pushing the front waistband down. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: Lowering the front waistband allows the pant to better follow the contour of the man’s physique relieving the pressure against the waistband and improving the “balance” of the pant.
Raise Front Waistband What you will see: Client will want to pull up the pants in the front, usually to cover their stomach / abdomen, but the front rise isn’t long enough to do it comfortably How the alteration fixes the fit issues: Raising the front waistband lengthens the front rise allowing the client to place the pants where they feel comfortable.
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Lower Back Waistband What you will see: Excess creases / folds gathering below the waistband in the back. In extreme cases the pants will appear tight against the thighs in the back. Why you see it: Usual cause is a “Sway Back” stance. Sometimes client may simply prefer the feeling of the waistband resting lower in the back. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: Lowering the back waistband removes the creases and improves the balance of the pant so it doesn’t rest against the thighs at the back.
Raise Back Waistband What you will see: Waistband doesn’t rest correctly against client’s back and pant may ride up between the lower part of the “cheeks”. Why you see it: Client has a large, round seat so the back rise isn’t long enough for proper coverage. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: Raising the waistband lengthens the back rise providing for proper coverage.
NOTE: You can use these waistband position alterations along with our measurement specification
charts to better match the front and back rise specifications of a client’s favorite pant. Front rise is
measured from the top of the front waistband straight down to the intersection at the crotch where
the front and back panels are sewn together. Back rise is measured from the top of the back
waistband to the same intersection. These measurements must be taken with a pant flat on a table.
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Seat Darts What you will see: May see a hollow (loose) gap between the waistband and the lower back. Why you see it: Client has a large, round seat compared to their smaller waist measurement, which pulls the waistband away from the lower back. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: Adding a 2nd dart allows the pattern to taper more quickly to the smaller waist, making the pant rest closer to the lower back.
THIGH ADJUSTMENT Thigh adjustment alterations enable you to let out or take in thigh as needed.
Let Out Thigh What you will see: Pants will appear tight against the inner thighs even though the rise seems long enough when viewed from the front or back. Why you see it: Client has heavy/thicker inner thighs than normal. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: Letting out the thigh creates more room and releases the pressure causing the wrinkles or folds.
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Take In Thigh What you will see: Pants will appear loose along the inner thighs even though the rise seems short enough when viewed from the front or back. Why you see it: Client has thinner inner thighs than normal. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: Taking in the thigh removes the excess and the legs will have less fullness.
LEG SHAPE
Reduce Peg What you will see: Pants will appear loose along the outside seam around and below the pocket area. Why you see it: Client has thinner outer thighs and (possibly) narrower hips than normal. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: Reducing the peg removes the excess fabric on the outer thighs.
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KNEE SHAPE
Bow Legged What you will see: Pants will “catch” against the outside of the knees, and the front crease may twist towards the inner leg. Client must stand with their feet together, and you measure the degree by placing your fingers between the knees to see how many fingers will fit. If four or more fingers fit, this is an extreme case. Why you see it: Client’s knees bow toward the outside while standing in a natural position. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: The balance of the measurement disbursement across the panels is switched in an effort to straighten the appearance of the front crease.
Knock Knee What you will see: Pants will “catch” against the inside of the knees, and the front crease may twist towards the outer leg. Client must stand with their knees together, and you measure the degree by placing your fingers between the feet to see how many fingers will fit. If four or more fingers fit, this is an extreme case. Why you see it: Client’s knees “knock” together while standing in a natural position. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: The balance of the measurement disbursement across the panels is switched in an effort to straighten the appearance of the front crease.
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STANCE
Hips Forward What you will see: A “Hips Forward” stance is the same as “Sway Back”. We use the term Sway Back when referring to jacket alterations. For a pant, you will likely see some pressure against the back of the thighs and the back of the waistband will appear lower than usual. Why you see it: The client’s forward stance causes the balance of the pant to shift making the pant legs rest against the client’s legs. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: Changing the back rise will improve the balance of the pant and relieve the pressure against the back of the thighs.
Prominent Calves What you will see: The pant will rest against the calves and potentially cause some breaks or folds at the front of the thighs. Why you see it: The client either has very muscular calves, or locks their knees back when they stand naturally. How the alteration fixes the fit issues: The pant leg measurement distribution is shifted toward the back panels to help relieve the pressure against the calves.
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CONCLUSION
Thank you for investing the time to read the Trinity Fitting Guide. The Workflo ordering system is the
most robust in the industry, offering unparalleled styling options, measurements and alterations.
Having access to such an array of alterations comes with responsibility. Remember that less is more,
especially with first time customers. Take pictures of your clients, especially those that are hard to fit,
and diagnose the pictures after your appointments so you can take your time and make good decisions.
