Ikat

INTRODUCTION  •  Ikat  is  otherwise  known  as  5e  and  dye  tex5le  design  round  the  world.    

•  It  is  also  known  as  “Bandha”.    

•  It  was  started  and  developed  in  India  also  at  least  in  certain  clusters  like  Odisha,  Gujarat  and  Andhra  Pradesh  and  upto  certain  extent  in  North  East  and  North  Eastern  India.  

Western  Odisha  having  number  of  clusters  like  Sambalpur,  Bolangir,  Sonepur,Boudh  etc.,  where  ikat  is  produced  by  the  communi5es  like  Bhuliya  assisted  

by  Kostha  and  Kuli.    

A  HISTORICAL  ANALYSIS  

•  In  India  Ikat  is  known  as  Bandha  in  Odisha,  Bandhani  in  Rajasthan,  Pochumpalli  in  Andhra  Pradesh.  

However  in  tex5le  term  it  is  commonly  known  as  Ikat.  

 •  The  term  ikat  is  a  malayan  word  and  

introduced  on  to  the  european  language  by  Rouffaer  comes  from  

word  Mangikat  which  means  to  bind,  knot  or  wind  around.  

 •  It  is  used  for  yarn  5e  and  dye  only  as  against  5e  and  dye  of  fabrics  which,  in  

India,  is  known  as  Bandhani.  

THE  COUSINES  OF  THE  IKAT  FABRIC  

Bandhani  is  a  well  known  art  of  Rajasthan.  These  fabrics  are  oUen  called  one  of  the  type  of  Ikat  for  two  basic  reasons:  

•  Because    of  its  name  Bandhani  which  has  similarity  with  Bandha.  

•  Because  the  design  is  done  by  Tie  and  Dye  method  similar  to  Ikat.  

THE  PATOLA  OF  GUJARAT  •  Tradi5onally  Patola  was  considered  as  popular  

dress  for  marraiges,  as  dress  for  deites  and  for  various  other  rituals  since  it  was  considered  that  patola  brings  good  luck.    

•  In  the  process  the  design  was  decided  and  the  design  is  drawn  as  a  blue  print  on  a  graph  paper,  and  is  then  painted  with  various  colors  to  feel  how  it  will  look  like  as  fabric.      The  warp  and  weU  yarns  needs  to  be  dyed  separately  such  a  way  that  on  the  loom  the  adjust  to  give  final  design  as  drawn  on  paper  earlier.    

•  According  to  design  knots  are  5ed  with  the  help  of  small  yarns  and  then  the  en5re  yarn  complex  is  dyed  leaving  the  knoYy  por5on  undyed.  The  knots  are  then  shiUed  as  may  be  needed  by  design.  

THE  PATOLA  OF  GUJARAT  Detail  of  a  classic  Gujara5  Patola  from  the  early  19th  century.    

Picture  source:  Google  Images  

POGDUBANDHU  OR  POCHAMPALLY  OF  ANDHRA  PRADESH  

•  Pogdubandhu  is  a  type  of  ikat  art,  those  are  produced  in  Andhra  Pradesh  where  it  is  known  as  Pochampally,  named  aUer  one  of  the  village  where  it  is  produced.    

•  It  has  its  unique  character  of  design,  different  from  either  Patola  or  Bandhni    of  Gujarat  or  Odisha  respec5vely,  however  it  does  not  have  connec5on  with  ritual  or  worship.    

•  The  process  begins  by  crea5ng  design  on  graph  paper  and  thereaUer  vacant  posi5ons  are  filled  in  with  colors.  In  this  art  both  single  as  well  as  double  ikat  are  prac5ced  thogh  bulk  of  them  are  single  ikat  unlike  Patola  og  Gujarat.  

Pochampalli  silk  saree   Pochampalli  coYon  saree  

Pochampalli  silk  saree  

BANDHA-­‐  THE  UNIQUE  IKAT  OF  ODISHA  

Out of different types of ikats produced in India perhaps “Bandha” of Odisha stands

apart. Not only in respect of designs but

the process, its expression and so on can be

summed up as poetry on the loom.

Bandha  Print  

BOMKAI  SAREE  OF  ODISHA    

IKAT  OF  MADHYA  PRADESH  •  Madhya  Pradesh  is  considered  as  the  heart  of  India.  This  

region  is  famous  for  tassar  silk  and  of  course  Ikat  work  which  came  today  perhaps  because  of  influence  of  Western  Odisha.  

•  The  art  of  ikat  of  Madhya  Pradesh  has  impact  of  Odisha  design  on  it.  Same  natural  mo5fs  like  fish,  elephant,  horse,  lotus,  and  floral  designs.  

JHARNA-­‐  THE  COMMON  INDIAN  IKAT  

•  It  is  a  general  belief  that  the  art  of  Ikat  only  exists  in  Gujarat,  Andhra  Pradesh,  Odisha  ,  and  Madhya  Pradesh  perhaps  because  of  typical  unique  designand  design  expressions.  

•  The  art  is  basically  Ikat  and  has  resemblence  with  South  European  Ikat  that  existed  during  historical  era,  a  few  pieces  are  s5ll  kept  in  meuseum  piece  in  Switzerland.  

•  Since  the  meaning  of  Jharna  is  fountain  ,  the  design  is  so  called  because  it  resembles  the  flow  of  water  either  in  line  or  in  bulk.  

Pricing  

•  Due  to  compara5ve  high  price  and  produc5on  of  imita5on  prints  of  ikat  in  mill  sector  the  market  is  threatened.  

•  Prices  of  this  garments  (mostly  sarees)  are  high  as  it  is  having  high  demand  all  over  the  country  and  because  of  the  labor  efforts  put  in  it.  (In  Western  Odisha  the  weavers  weave  8  sarees  at  a  5me.  )  

Kind  of  Garments  

There’s  no  limit  in  the  kinds  of  garments  of  Ikat  because  of  the  increasing  demand.  But  before  this  tex5le  was  made  for  sarees  only,  now  if  you  

explore  you  can  get  almost  all  types  of  garments  in  this  

fabric.  

Sambalpuri  Jacket   Ikat  blouse    

Kur5s  from  Sambalpuri  Tex5le  

Pochampalli  Scarfs  and  coYon  pants  

INTERNATIONAL  DEMAND  

Gucci  Spring/Summer  2010  

Thank  You!  

Palka  Madan  CHE13LD11  

palkamadan@gmail.com