Imerol Blue Majic Archroma

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    Colour ChronicleA Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited Publication

    for Textile, Leather and Paper

    33ndyear of publication

    Number 1 | 2012

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    2 colour chronicle 2 | 2012

    colour chronicle 2 | 2012

    ContentsTextile 3

    Blue Magic

    Foam Eco Care

    Foron S-WF

    Nylosan/ Lanasyn

    Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)

    Paper 14 Cartabond

    Leather 17

    Clariant predicts a summer palette to cheer the senses Clariant at 27th India International Leather Fair

    Gleanings from press 22

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    3/24colour chronicle 2 | 2012

    pH-Collapsor

    Wetting

    StabilizerActivator

    Steering

    Sequestering

    Washing

    textile

    Blue MagicAll-in-one solution for discontinuous pretreatment with ImerolBlue liq

    Minimum time for maximum results

    Peroxide

    H2O

    2

    Alkali

    NaOH

    HO2

    Stabilizer

    ImerolBLUE liq

    SinguletTechnology

    Parasiteroutes

    ClassicalBleach

    OS

    O2

    O2

    Active

    Singulet

    Molecular

    Oxygen

    Cellulose

    hydrolysis

    Peroxo-anion

    Singulat Bleaching Mechanism

    Efficient, economic andsustainable

    Our new Imerol Blue liq is a wizard

    with a hat full of fantastic magic tools.

    One single product delivers an efficient,

    economic and short discontinuous

    pretreatment. May you need a ready-for-

    dyeing grade or the brighter optical white,

    the Blue Magic process will deliver it.

    Without a separate rinsing, with less water,

    shorter time and reduced energy. It is so

    simple that it seems Magic!

    The benefitsEfficiency

    Maximal absorbency

    High degree of whiteness

    No cellulose degradation

    Better uniformity

    Better dye ability

    Better body-collar matching

    Economy:

    Less water (

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    textile

    Multi-functionalityImerolBlue liq has more than one rabbit in

    its hat. The combination of its exceptional

    properties, based on the Singulet Bleaching

    Technology, opens new doors for theexhaust bleaching world.

    0 10 20 30 40 50 60

    pH

    12

    11

    10

    9

    8

    7

    Classic

    BlueMagic

    10.5

    minutes

    pH2 pH4 pH6 pH8 pH10 pH12

    100

    80

    60

    40

    % Enzyme-Activity

    % Enzyme-Activity

    100

    90

    80

    70

    60

    50

    40

    30

    20

    10

    30C 40C 50C 60C 70C

    BactosolSAP l iq c Us ua l Ca ta lase

    Yarn packages

    Woven fabrics

    Knitwear

    Absorbent cotton

    Protector against cellulose degradation

    Removes fatty substances (high

    absorbency)

    Disperses oiling agents (no

    redeposition, no spots)

    Economic Flexibility

    Bactosol SAP liq c is a hybrid catalase

    enzyme with a wide scope of application:flexible pH (4 9), flexible temperature (20

    70C) andflexible application (discontinuous

    continuous). There is no more need of

    perfectly adjusted pH and temperature: the

    elimination of peroxide is total in every

    case!

    The new Blue Magic process can

    be used in all the different forms of

    discontinuous pretreatment. From yarn

    to cotton flocks, over terry towels,

    woven and knitwear, Imerol Blue liq

    delivers great results.

    High penetration power (Tampex penetration test)

    Strong detergency (wash test on standard soiled fabric)

    No foaming behavior

    Alkali stable up to 6B and biodegradable

    Wetting

    Washing 0 g/l 1 g/l 2 g/l 3 g/l

    No foaming

    Alkali stable

    With ImerolBlue liq the following features are

    granted:

    High wetting and penetration power

    (Tampex penetration test) to convey quickly

    the bleaching bath to the core of the fiber.

    Strong detergency (wash test) and dispersing

    behavior to remove the contaminants and

    keep them away from the fiber.

    No foaming behavior. Machine turbulences

    are never an issue.

    Stable up to 6 B NaOH, suitable for all

    exhaust bleaching applications.

    Key functions

    Oxygen-active donor

    Wetting-washing and dispersing agent

    Balance activation/stabilization

    Collapsor of pH

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    textile

    Blue Magic high temperature

    Blue Magic atmospheric

    120C

    100C

    80C

    60C

    40C

    20C

    0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 Time (min)

    ImerolBlue liq High temperature

    110C 15 min

    0.35% Bactosol SAP liq c

    Drain

    5 01 Dyeing

    max up to

    5C/min

    max

    2.5% H2O250 %

    1.2% Imerol Blue liq

    1.2% NaOH 48B Sirrix NE liq to pH 7.0

    120C

    100C

    80C

    60C

    40C

    20C

    0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 Time (min)

    ImerolBlue liq Atmospheric

    95C 30 min

    0.35% Bactosol SAP liq c

    Drain

    5 10 Dyeing

    max up to

    5C/minmax

    2.5% H2O250 %

    1.0% Imerol Blue liq

    2.2% NaOH 48B Sirrix NE liq to pH 7.0

    All you need to be ready for dyeingWith the following parameters the Blue Magic process creates high absorbency as well as

    a good base whiteness while reducing costs and treatment time.

    Results

    Good degree of whiteness

    Excellent absorbency

    Fabric ready for dyeing

    Recipe

    ImerolBlue liq 1.2%

    NaOH 48B 1.2%

    H2O250% 2.5%

    Liquor Ratio 1:8

    Important parameters

    Initial pH 10.5

    pH after refilling* 7.5

    * with optimal conditions

    Results

    Good degree of whiteness

    Very good absorbency

    Fabric ready for dyeing

    Recipe

    ImerolBlue liq 1.0%

    NaOH 48B 2.2%

    H2O250% 2.5%

    Liquor Ratio 1:8

    Important parameters

    Initial pH 11.0

    pH after refilling* 8.5

    * with optimal conditions

    The combination of Imerol Blue liq

    and optical brighteners makes you able

    to achieve highest degree of whiteness.

    Either in one step for high whiteness or in

    two steps for the brightest optical white,

    the Blue Magic process will always dazzle

    you.

    Full white in one step

    Recipe

    ImerolBlue liq 1.0 %

    NaOH 48 B 1.8 %

    H2O

    250 % 6.0 %

    LeucophorBSB liq 0.7 %

    Process

    Treatment: 20 min. at 110C

    Rinsing: 10 min cold

    Neutralizing with Sirrix

    NE liqLiquor ratio: 1 : 10

    Full white in two steps

    Peroxide bleaching at 110C for highest

    white ever

    Recipe

    ImerolBlue liq 1.0 %

    NaOH 48 B 1.8 %

    H2O

    250 % 6.0 %

    Process

    Treatment: 15 min at 110C

    Rinsing: hot

    Liquor ratio: 1 : 10

    Reductive bleaching at 70C

    Recipe

    ArostitBLN Gran 4.0 %

    LeucophorBSB liq 0.8 %

    Process

    Treatment: 20 min at 70 C

    Rinsing: warm and cold

    Liquor ratio: 1 : 10

    Clariants wide range of optical brighteners for cellulosic fibers and their blends is

    perfectly adapted to the one step Blue Magic bleaching and brightening (Brighten Blue).

    A separate brightening combined with a reductive bleaching is also possible with selected

    optical brighteners.

    Product Shade Affinity Reductive pH stability Reductive Light Fastness to bath 2) bleaching fastness wash 60 / 95C

    LeucophorBSB neutral bluish xxx > 5.5 xxx 3 4 4/4

    LeucophorBSBB 1) bluish xxx > 5.5 3 4 3 4 / 3 4

    LeucophorPC neutral reddish xxx > 3.5 xxx 3 4 4/4

    HostaluxCPA01 1) neutral xxx > 3.5 xxx 4 4/4

    LeucophorBMB 1) neutral bluish xx > 5.5 xxx 3 4 4 5 / 3 4

    LeucophorBMBB bluish violet xx > 5.5 3 4 3 4 / 3 4

    LeucophorBMF.ID 1) neutral reddish xx > 3.5 xxx 3 4 4 5 / 3 4

    LeucophorBMFV bluish xx > 3.5 3 4 4 5 / 3 4

    1) The use of salt (3 g/l Sodium Sulfate) increases the degree of whiteness

    2) Suitable for 2-step bleaching (oxidative bleaching + reductive bleaching/brightening)

    colour chronicle 2 | 2012

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    textile

    History

    About two years ago Clariant launchedtheir Premium LT Cure resin finishwith their newly developed glyoxalic

    resin: Arkofix ELF liq conc. With this

    system Clariant was able to achieve non-

    iron properties on 100% cotton fabrics

    with a simple pad-dry-cure process (cure

    at low temperature and without the need of

    an afterwash) which up to then were only

    achievable with a moist-curing process.

    At about the same time Cotton

    Incorporated started to develop a non-iron finish on 100% cotton by doing the

    application of the chemicals with a foam

    applicator.

    In September 2009, Clariant and

    Cotton Incorporated came in contact on

    this subject of developing a non-iron resin

    finish by foam application (CFS System

    from Gaston Systems).

    Objectives

    Obtain high DP performance

    3.5 to 4.0 DP ratings by AATCCTM 124.

    Low wet pick-up with foam finishing

    Less energy consumption.

    Chemical reduction by optimum

    finish placement.

    Premium LT Cure System

    Developed by Clariant

    International Ltd.

    Low temperature curing (less

    energy).

    Safer handling than moist curing

    (less acidity). No afterwashing.

    Low Formaldehyde

    < 75 ppm by ISO 14184-1

    (Japanese LAW 112).

    Benefits of Foam Eco Care finishing versus

    traditional Easy Care finish. Energy and water savings.

    Less energy consumptionbecause

    of lower curing temperatures:

    Traditional Easy Care: Cure at 170C

    Foam Eco Care: Cure at 130C.

    ExperimentalTrial fabrics

    Cotton poplin, 130 g/m2

    Liquid ammonia (LA) treated

    Fabric pH 7.0 and alkalinity 0.07% (as

    NaOH)

    Procedure

    Foam Eco Care:

    400 g/l ArkofixELF liq c

    100 g/l Catalyst NKC liq 80 g/l Ceralube SVN liq

    40 g/l Solusoft MW liq

    30 g/l nonionic foaming agent

    Foamat 30% wet pick-up

    Top and bottom foam applicators

    Dry 110C, 60 seconds dwell time

    Cure 130C, 3 minutes

    Reference (pad process Premium LT

    Cure):

    200 g/l ArkofixELF liq c 50 g/l Catalyst NKC liq

    40 g/l Ceralube SVN liq

    20 g/l SolusoftMW liq

    2 g/l nonionic wetting agent

    Pad with 60% wet pick-up

    Dry 110C, 80 seconds dwell time

    Cure 130C, 3 minutes

    Remark: Premium LT-Cure is already improved in respectof curing temperature : 130C instead of 170C.

    Flex abrasion

    Formaldehyde (ISO 18484-1)

    0

    1

    2

    3

    4

    5

    UntreatedPadFoam

    0

    1

    2

    3

    UntreatedPadFoam

    Warp Filling

    ElmendorfTear,lbs

    0

    100

    200

    300

    400

    UntreatedPadFoam

    Flex,

    cyclestobreak Warp

    0

    20

    40

    60

    80

    100

    UntreatedPadFoam

    Formaldehyde(ppm)

    Foam Eco CareEnergy and cost savingstate-of-the-art resin finish

    Results on cotton poplinSmoothness rating

    Tear strength

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    0

    20

    40

    60

    80

    100

    UntreatedPadFoam

    0

    40

    80

    120

    160

    200

    240

    UntreatedPadFoam

    Warp Filling

    Tensile

    ,lbs

    0

    2

    4

    6

    8

    UntreatedPadFoam

    ElmendorfTear,lbs

    Filling

    0

    1

    2

    3

    4

    5

    UntreatedPadFoam

    textile

    ExperimentalTrial fabrics

    Cotton denim, indigo dyed, 345 g/m2

    Desized and scoured

    Fabric pH 8.1 and alkalinity 0.10%

    (as NaOH)

    Procedure

    Foam Eco Care:

    400 g/l ArkofixELF liq c

    100 g/l Catalyst NKC liq 80 g/l Ceralube SVN liq

    40 g/l Solusoft MW liq

    30 g/l nonionic foaming agent

    Foamat 30% wet pick-up

    Top and bottom foam applicators

    Dry 110C, 90 seconds dwell time

    Cure 130C, 3 minutes

    Reference (pad process Premium LT

    Cure):

    200 g/l ArkofixELF liq c 50 g/l Catalyst NKC liq

    40 g/l Ceralube SVN liq

    20 g/l SolusoftMW liq

    2 g/l nonionic wetting agent

    Pad with 60% wet pick-up

    Dry 110C, 120 seconds dwell time

    Cure 130C, 3 minutes

    Remark: Premium LT-Cure is already improved in respectof curing temperature : 130C instead of 170C

    Results on cotton denimSmoothness rating

    Tear strength

    Tensile strength

    Formaldehyde (ISO 18484-1)

    Lower wet pickup of foam

    application compared to pad

    application (30%compared to

    60%) allows for faster speed and

    reduced energy consumption in

    drying.

    Foam uses less waterin the

    application.

    Performance Superior abrasion performance

    with foam as compared to pad

    application.

    More or less same smoothness

    ratings.

    Low formaldehyde (

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    textile

    ForonS-WFInnovation in the field of disperse dyestuffsInnovation in disperse dyes?

    Disperse dyes are the dyes that are themost commoditized class of textile

    dyestuffs. The reasons for this are:

    Polyester is the biggest of all textile

    fibers

    Polyester is the cheapest textile fiber

    that can be dyed

    The biggest polyester producers are

    in Asia with the main users in close

    proximity

    The biggest disperse dyestuff producers

    are therefore in Asia and are backward

    integrated. Therefore they have a verylow cost base

    The environmental bureaucracy (with

    its associated cost to industry) has not

    reached the same level as in developed

    countries, even though the basic

    legislation is slowly getting in place

    The more the elements are commodities

    the more they are interchangeable and the

    less innovation tends to result.

    From Artisilto Foron

    Past major developments of disperse dyesInnovation steps for disperse dyes:

    Acetate fiber invention (trade name

    Artisilfor disperse dyes, since acetate

    fiber was nicknamed that time artificial

    silk)

    Polyester fiber invention (not all

    disperse dyes for acetate are/were

    suitable for polyester the success of

    polyester led to change of trade name

    to Foron)

    High temperature dyeing machine

    invention (no need for carrier dyeinganymore led to a wider choice of

    available chemistry - Foron SE,

    ForonS)

    Thermosol continuous dyeing process

    invention (need for high sublimation

    dyes to achieve stable dyeing conditions

    ForonS)

    Alkaline resist printing (dyestuff as

    ground color that can be discharged

    with alkali whilst alkaline stable,

    normal disperse dyes are used in the

    print paste to form the pattern)

    Foron RD (dyestuffs with very good

    reproducibility on machines with not soperfect controls)

    Past minor developments of disperse dyes

    After the advent of ForonRD - end 1970s/

    beginning 1980s, only minor developments

    took place:

    Shade gamut extension (Foron

    Brilliant Blue S-R)

    Fastness property improvements

    (benzo-di-furanon reds)

    Replacement of forbidden dyestuffs

    Foron

    S-WFInnovations from 1985 to 2000?

    There was no visible innovation in disperse

    dyes after ForonBrilliant Blue S-R until

    the launch of the initial 4 Foron S-WF

    dyes 2000.

    This lengthy period was needed to find

    suitable chemistry that overcame the main

    deficiencies of the ForonS type disperse

    dyes. These were:

    Insufficient fastness to washing on

    polyester/cellulose blends, especially in

    continuous dyeing (Thermosol process,developed by Sandoz now Clariant

    in cooperation with Monforts), but also

    in exhaust dyeing

    Insufficient fastness to sublimation

    in dark shades for yarn dyed fabric of

    finer filaments

    Too high staining of white ground

    in printing with superheated steam

    fixation on finer polyester fabrics

    ForonS-WF innovation

    From 2000 to today the ForonS-WF dyes

    range has expanded to 16 dyes.The current range covers a wider

    coloristic range than the Foron S

    range did at its peak (wider in the red

    and green area, a little less wide in the

    violet area). This year we are finishing

    the planned shade gamut by launching

    3 new dyes:

    Foron Turquoise S-WF (for bright

    greens to be able to match cotton

    standards)

    Foron Vermillion S-WF (for bright

    reds)

    Foron Atlantic Blue S-WF (greenish

    blue dyestuff as metamerism controlelement)

    ForonS-WF dyestuff range

    The Foron S-WF range consists now of

    the following elements:

    ForonBrilliant Yellow S-WF

    ForonGolden Yellow S-WF

    ForonOrange S-WF

    ForonScarlet S-WF

    ForonVermillion S-WF

    ForonRed S-WF

    Foron

    Rubine S-WF ForonViolet S-WF

    ForonBlue S-WF

    ForonCyanine S-WF

    ForonTurquoise S-WF

    ForonAtlantic Blue S-WF

    ForonDark Blue S-WF

    ForonNavy S-WF

    ForonCarbon S-WF

    ForonBlack S-WF

    Innovation in disperse dyes

    There has been innovation in the field ofdisperse dyes.

    The innovation did follow initially the

    development in fiber technology. From

    acetate to polyester, from carrier dyeing

    to high temperature dyeing, from coarse

    staple fiber to fine microfiber filaments,

    all these developments from the fiber and

    dyeing machine industries necessitated

    improvements in the dyestuffs available.

    Since one can assume that there will be

    no major fiber or machine development in

    the near future, the innovation will haveto cover unmet needs that are not very

    visible:

    Ecological / toxicological market

    demands

    Fastness demands form retailers and

    consumers

    But, as can be seen already with the

    introduction of ForonS-WF:

    Innovation takes time!

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    textile

    Nylosan/ LanasynInnovation in the field of acid dyestuffs Innovation in acid dyes?

    Acid dyestuffs belong to a class whichis believed to be at the end of its

    innovation potential. The reason for this

    widespread opinion is clear:

    Acid dyes are amongst thefirst synthetic

    dyes ever produced

    Nearly half of the whole Colour

    Index, a comprehensive list of

    colorants past and present, published

    by the professional bodies SDC and

    AATCC, consists of acid dyes (more

    than reactive, vat, sulphur, disperse

    dyes put together) There are acid dyestuffs that have been

    on the market for more than 100 years

    (e.g. CI Acid Blue 113, a standard navy

    acid dye for polyamide, was invented

    in 1892)

    The market for acid dyes is not as big as

    the market for disperse dyes, vat dyes

    or reactive dyes

    There is a lot of interaction between

    dyes and fiber, so an acid dyes range

    has to have more elements than e.g.

    a reactive dyes range. Therefore thevolumes of single dyes are rather

    small if compared to other dyestuff

    ranges

    From Xylene and AlizarintoNylosanand LanasynA review

    Clariant (at that time Chemische

    Fabrik Kern & Sandoz) started in 1886

    as a dyestuff manufacturer with acid

    dyestuffs. In 2011, exactly 125 years later,

    acid dyestuffs are still a substantial part ofClariants dyestuff portfolio.

    Even though other dyestuff classes

    were invented as new fibers came

    to the market (such as disperse dyes

    for polyester) or as chemical science

    made progress (like reactive dyes

    for cellulose fibers), acid dyestuffs

    remained important. Developed

    originally for wool and silk, acid dyes

    were further advanced for the synthetic

    fiber polyamide.

    Over the years our products were

    improved; old and well loved trade namesappeared and disappeared again (Xylene,

    Alizarin, to just name a few), others are

    still in existence (Lanasyn, Nylosan).

    And thanks to polyamide, with its

    development of microfibers, and an early

    awareness by Clariants management

    regarding the environmental and health

    impact of heavy metals in acid dyes,

    Clariant refocused on acid dyestuff

    innovation.

    Nylosan

    SThe problemsWet fastness:

    Deep shades on finer filament counts

    of polyamide cannot be achieved with

    sufficiently high fastness to washing with

    existing dyestuffs.

    Ecology:

    Deep shades with good fastness on

    polyamide or wool cannot be achieved

    without the use of poisonous heavy metals,

    either bound in the dyestuff as metal

    complex or generated in situ on the fiberwith mordant dyes.

    Depth of shade:

    The finer a fiber filament the more dyestuff

    is needed to achieve a deeper shade.

    Polyamide especially has only a limited

    number of dyestuff binding sites.

    On natural, non chemically treated

    wool, good fabric appearance is not easily

    achieved due to the effect of sunlight on

    the sheeps fleece.

    The requirementsThe initial quest for solving the problem

    was not an easy path to follow:

    Find new dyestuff chromophores that

    are metal-free and at the same time

    so strong that dark shades can be

    achieved

    The dyestuffs have to have the wet

    fastness properties of at least that

    achievable with metal complex

    dyestuffs

    They should be relatively easy to apply

    They should not impact negatively on

    the spinning properties of woolDue to the above very demanding

    list or requirements, it seemed nearly

    impossible that such requirements would

    be met. A lot of the demands seemed to

    be mutually excluding themselves e.g.

    improving the wet fastness of an acid

    dyestuff by incorporating a fiber-reactive

    system impacts on the reproducibility and

    levelness of a dyeing as well as on the

    possible depth that can be reached.

    The solutionA new range was born NylosanS. Eventhough still incomplete the range is growing

    year on year. Currently it consists of

    NylosanYellow S-L

    NylosanOrange S-3R

    NylosanRed S-GS

    NylosanRed S-3B

    Nylosan Brilliant Red S-3R (new

    2011)

    NylosanBlue S-R

    NylosanNavy S-3G

    The research on Nylosan S alsoled to the discovery of a very special

    dyestuff. Even though having Nylosan

    S wet fastness levels, because of special

    combination possibilities we have chosen

    to name it:

    LanasynFlavine F-5G (new 2011)

    This dye is the most brilliant acid

    yellow element in the market and the

    ideal partner to turquoise for bright

    greens on polyamide. Just have a look

    at the dyed samples.

    Acid dyestuff innovation!There is still life in an old dyestuff field:

    a) After exactly 125 years in acid

    dyestuffs, Clariant launches with

    LanasynFlavine F-5G a very visible

    proof of its innovative spirit.

    b) Up to now it was not always possible

    to match brilliant yellow or brilliant

    green shades on wool or on polyamide

    to cotton standards. Now the situation

    is reversed.

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    textile

    The high use of pesticides on cropsincluding cotton, lead to augmentationof pollution of rivers, soils and seas which

    in turn resulted in high rates of sickness,

    diseases and even deaths for the human

    beings. These toxic chemicals (with

    minimal or no biodegradability) enterednot only the life cycle of human beings

    but also the plants. This initiated the idea

    of Organic farming which was further

    extended to cotton as well. The clothing

    that contains no toxic, carcinogenic or

    allergenic chemical residues were preferred

    by community. During the decade several

    Organic standards were introduced.

    The need of formation of specific body

    and universal standard was identified in

    order to achieve uniformity in Organic

    accreditation and the seeds for GlobalOrganic Textile Standard sowed.

    The Global Organic Textile Standard

    (GOTS) is one of the widely accepted

    textile processing standards across the

    Globe. The standard is not only applicable

    to Organic Fibers but also serves Ecological

    and Social criteria by virtue of Responsible

    care.

    The standard covers processing,

    manufacturing, packaging, labeling,

    trading and distribution of all textiles

    made from at least 70% certified Organicnatural fibers. However, the standard is not

    applicable for products made from non-

    fiber materials such as leather, skin, hide

    or rubber.

    Evolution of Global Organic Textile

    Standard (GOTS) Chronology

    Before, first version of GOTS was agreed

    and published in May, 2005 the process

    had already begun way back in 2002 with

    the formation of International Working

    Group (IWG).

    Global Organic TextileStandard (GOTS) Formation of International Working

    Group (IWG) on Global Organic Textile

    Standard at the workshop Global

    Standards at Intercot, Dusseldorf in

    August 2002.

    Four major Standard Organisations -

    International Association Natural

    Textile Industry (IVN), Germany

    Soil Association (SA), England

    Organic Trade Association (OTA),

    USA and

    Japan Organic Cotton Association

    (JOCA), Japan signed theAgreement on the common

    approach and implementation

    methods in July 2004, Wallau.

    These four organizations agreed on

    the First Version of GOTS and its

    implementation in May 2005.

    The GOTS Certification system came

    into force October, 2006.

    Currently valid Version 2.0 of the

    GOTS and GOTS label are introduced

    in June 2008.

    Foundation of Global Standard GmbH,an operating unit of IWG, formed for

    execution of GOTS program.

    GOTS Version 3.0 published in 2011.

    Consequently, the following Standards

    become completely harmonized with

    GOTS.

    North American Fiber Standard Organic

    Trade Association, USA.

    Guidelines Naturtextile IVN

    Zertifiziert International Association

    Natural Textile Industry, Germany. Standard for processing and

    manufacture of Organic Textiles Soil

    Association, England.

    EKO Sustainable Textile Standard-

    Control Union Certification (CUC)

    (formerly Skal International),

    Netherlands.

    Standard for Organic Textiles Ecocert,

    France.

    Organic Textile Standard ICEA, Italy

    Standards for Organic Textile ETKO,

    Turkey.

    Organic Fiber Standard, Oregon Tilth,USA.

    Standard for processing of Organic

    Textile products OIA, Argentina.

    Criteria for Fiber Production and

    Processing & Manufacturing under GOTS

    In the harmonized standard, stringent

    criteria were adopted for processing,

    manufacturing, packaging, labeling,

    trading and distribution of all textiles

    from certified organic natural fibers. It is

    very difficult to cover whole standard inthis article for space constraint, however,

    overall general factors during few

    important stages are discussed particularly

    emphasizing the requirements of dyes,

    auxiliaries and processing chemicals.

    Fiber production:

    Organic Certification of fibers on the

    basis of recognized international or

    national standard (e.g. EEC 834/2007,

    USDA NOP and EC 345/2008)

    Certification of fibers from conversionperiod is possible if applicable farming

    standard permits such certification

    A textile product carrying the GOTS

    label of grade Organic must contain

    a maximum of 95% certified organic

    fibers and a product with label grade

    made with Organic must contain a

    minimum of 70% certified Organic

    fiber.

    Processing and Manufacturing:

    All the stages of manufacturingOrganic fiber and product made

    thereof must be separated from

    conventional fiber product/s and must

    be clearly identified.

    Chemical inputs, including dyes,

    auxiliaries and processing chemicals

    must be evaluated and meet the basic

    requirements on Toxicity, Eco-toxicity

    and biodegradability/eliminability.

    The basis for assessment of all

    chemical inputs (both substances and

    preparations) is Material Safety Data

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    11/24colour chronicle 2 | 2012

    textile

    Sheet (MSDS), prepared according

    to an applicable recognized norms

    or directive. (ANSI Z400.1 -2004,

    1272/2007/EEC,ISO 11014-1,2001/58/

    EEC, GHS, and JIS Z 7250:2005,

    Part-1).

    Following are strictly prohibited: Chemical inputs containing aromatic

    and chlorinated solvents

    Surfactants nonyl and octylphenols,

    their ethoxylates (NPEOs) and APEOs,

    LAS, alpha-MES

    Inputs containing functional nano

    particles (particles with a size 1-100

    nm)

    Genetically modified Organisms

    (GMOs) and their derivatives including

    enzymes derived from genetically

    modified organismsComplexing agents like EDTA,DTPA,

    NTA

    Formaldehyde and other short-chain

    aldehydes (aldehydes up to 6 carbon

    and both momo- and dialdehydes are

    considered as short chain aldehydes)

    The use of synthetic sizing agents is

    restricted. Knitting and weaving oils

    must not contain heavy metals.

    No chlorine containing bleaching

    agents permitted. Bleaches must be

    based on Oxygen. Fluorocarbons such as PFOS, PFOA

    Organotin compounds such as

    DBT,MBT,TBT,DOT,TPhT

    Plasticizers such as Phthalates,

    Bisphenol A and all other ones which

    are potentially endocrine disruptors

    Polynuclear hydrocarbons (PHA)

    All the chemical inputs must be heavy

    metal free with the exceptions of Dyes

    and Pigments containing metals with

    restricted values.

    Azo dyes that releases carcinogenicamines upon cleavage. The limit value

    for aryl amines on fabric has been

    revised to 20 from 30 mg/kg in new

    version.

    Disperse dyes classified as allergenic

    Pigments that releases carcinogenic aryl

    amines (MAC III category 1,2 & 3)

    Chlorophenols (PCP, TeCP etc.)

    including their salts and esters

    Though the total ban on Quaternary

    Ammonium Compound are is dropped

    DTDMAC, DSDMAC & DHTDMAC

    are banned.

    Similarly, ban on biocides used as

    In-can preservatives has now been

    dropped, still they are banned in

    finishing.

    The limit value for AOX has been

    changed from 0.5 to 5.0 mg/kg in new

    version. pH levels for products with skin contact

    has been limited to 4.5 7.5

    Limit value for tin, TphT, DOT,PAH,

    and Phthalates as well as Cadmium

    and Lead in digested samples will be in

    accordance with CPSIA.

    Substances listed in regulation

    552/2009 amending regulation EC

    1907/2006 (REACH), Annex XVII

    or the Candidate list of substances

    of very high concern (SVHC) for

    Authorization published by EuropeanChemicals Agency (ECHA) are

    prohibited now.

    Substances and preparations are banned

    if assigned to listed risk phrases related

    to Health hazards.

    Preparations are also banned if

    assigned to listed risk phrases related

    to environmental hazards. Now newly

    preparations are banned if assigned to

    R-51/53,R-55 &R-56.

    New preparations are no longer banned

    if a contained substance is assigned toR-50, R-50/53. R-58 and R-59 as long

    as this does not trigger a classification

    of the product itself.

    New animal /Fish tests to determine

    toxicity and Eco-toxicity (LD50 and

    LC50 Values) are banned.

    Wastewater from all wet processing

    sites must be treated in an internal

    or external functional wastewater

    treatment plant before discharged to

    surface waters.

    For adequate implementation andassessment for the minimum social

    criteria, corresponding key conventions

    of the International Labour Organisation

    (ILO) is to be considered as basis for

    interpretation.

    Processors, manufacturers and traders

    of GOTS goods must undergo an on-

    site annual inspection cycle and must

    hold a valid conformity certificate.

    Gots certifying bodies in india

    Presently there are two main organizations

    which issues GOTS certificates for the

    textile dyes, chemicals and auxiliaries and

    are located in Bangalore, India.

    The Institute of Market ecology (IMO)

    which certifies more than 300 smallholder

    farmers groups world wide. The certified

    groups vary in size from 20 to 25000

    farmers and produce great variety of cropsincluding cotton.

    On the other hand, Control Union

    Certification (CUC) is another body which

    certifies approximately 1500 companies

    with a total of 2754 facilities in 54

    countries.

    The top twenty countries based on the

    number of GOTS-certified facilities are (in

    order of Ranking): India, Turkey, China,

    Pakistan, South Korea, Japan, Germany,

    Italy, United Kingdom, Bangladesh,

    France, Hong kong, Mauritius, Peru, USA,Netherland, Sri Lanka, Portugal, Greece

    and Belgium.

    GOTS at Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd.

    Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd., reviewed

    and revised its existing product list

    (meeting GOTS Ver.2.0) for complying

    with new GOTS Version 3.0. The whole

    process was completed in December 2011

    and the certifying body Control Union

    Certification (CUC) issued a certificate to

    that effect consisting in all 71 products.According to new administrative policy

    the certificate will be valid till November

    29, 2012 and will subsequently be renewed

    further depending on the procedures

    existing then. The related data on the

    various prohibited substances mentioned

    earlier was generated in newly established

    in-house Clariant Process and Product

    Safety Laboratory (CPPSL), located at

    Kolshet, India. The laboratory which was

    made operational in December 2007 and

    is only of its kind in India and Clariantaffiliates caters to the need of Clariant

    products predominantly for establishing

    process and product safety parameters. The

    laboratory is engaged in Physico-chemical,

    Ecological and Restricted Substances

    Testing under one roof and is accredetated

    by National Accredetation Board for

    Testing and Calibration Laboratories

    (NABL), Department of Science &

    Technology, Government of India for ISO

    17025:2005 since 2008.

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    textile

    Some Important DefinitionsDiffusion

    The molecules adsorbed onto the surface ofthefiber immediately begin to diffuse into thefiber. Hence further sites become availableon the cellulose surface for adsorption, and

    these are immediately occupied by new dyemolecules exhausted from the bath.The uptake phase thus consists of a series

    of states of equilibrium, the final objectiveof which is uniform distribution of the dyeover the accessible areas of the fiber.

    It is self-evident that diffusion isinterrupted by reaction with fiber.

    It is above all the diffusion rate of day,and not as often claimed, its substantivitythat decides its rate of exhaustion.

    Substantivity is only one of the numerousparameters affecting diffusion rate.

    Of all the parameters available to thedyers, temperature has by far the greatesteffect on diffusion (and hence on migration,wash-off etc)

    The activation energy of diffusion isusually between 10-20 kcal/kg which isequivalent to an increase of the diffusionrate by a factor of 3 for a temperatureincrease of 10C.

    High affinity reactive dyes, whichexhaust best from the bath, diffuse, migrateand level fairly slowly and many times

    poorly.

    Dye reactivityThe reactivity of commercial dye hasgreatest influencing factor of ReactiveGroup itself, Nucleophilic substitution SN2;the leaving group decides the Reactivity.

    With every 1 unit pH increase, theconcentration of secondary alcohol

    position of cellulose ionizes to increase bya factor of 10.

    Concentration of OH in the dyebathwill decide the concentration of cell Owhich is crucial for reaction. Meaning

    pH 10-12 the reaction rate will be 1000 -100,000 times higher than at neutral pH(for a dye). It is not sufficient to adjustthe pH of fixation to a suitable level andrelax as the reaction consumes alkali andtherefore, without a proper buffer capacity,the pH therefore promptly falls to a level atwhich the reaction is too slow.

    Standard AffinityStandard affinity, like substantivity, isa measure for the distribution of a dye

    between fiber and the dyebath and thus for

    the difference between the dyes affinity

    for water (hydrophilic properties) and forcellulose.

    Unlike substantivity, affinity is alwaysdetermined in equilibrium but understandard dyeing conditions. This mayrequire many many hours and even days.Factors like V volume of cellulose has tobe worked out before we derive K calaffinity value for one dye under one set ofdefined conditions including V factor ofthe cellulosic sustrate. Negative K cal asthe dyeing is an exothermic reaction.It is a true dyespecific characteristics.Factors like Number of coplanar chromophores. High number of conjugated double

    bonds Every discountinuity in the planarity of

    the chromophore that is every decreasein the size of the delocalized pi electronsystem

    Polarity Substituents Van der waal forces and hydrophobic

    forces Number of solubilising groups like

    SO3in the chromophores.

    SubstantivitySubstantivity of the Dye i.e. the Quotientof the dye concentration in the fiber and

    the Dye concentration in the bath in theequilibrium state.

    Equlibrium = [ F ] bath >

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    Which shade will make mycreation a fashion statement?

    Clariant Vertrieb (Deutschland) GmbH & Co. KG, c/o Clariant Service (Schweiz) AG, Kundendienst Papier Mitteleuropa,Rothausstrasse 61, 4132 Muttenz, Switzerland, Phone: +41 61 469 763 8, www.paper.clariant.com

    What do youneed

    In fashion, nothing could be more important than color. Get it right, and see sales soar. Get it wrong, and your collec-

    tion lit ters the clearance rack. Archromas aim is to get it right, from the design studio all the way through the supply

    chain to the end customer. We combine vast expertise in dyestuffs, textiles and customized color standards with

    state-of-the-art, web-based tools that keep color on track. No matter how far-flung your operations are, Clariant

    is close to you. Any time. Any place. So visit us today at www.archroma.com, and let your inspiration take color.

    Inspiration has a new name: ArchromaColor Management.

    ArchromaColorManagement

    isaregisteredtrademarkofClariant.

    Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd., Textile Business, Kolshet Office, P.O. Sandoz Baug, Kolshet, Thane (W) 400 607, India.

    www.clariant.in

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    title

    colour chronicle 2 | 201214

    paper

    CartabondCross linkers for improved offset printingand converting

    Many problems occurring during

    papermaking, converting and printing

    operations are due to the presence at thepaper surface of free or weakly-bound

    particles and fibers.

    Crosslinkers offer improved wet

    surface strength by decreasing the water

    solubility and/or aqueous swelling of

    binders and fibers close to the paper

    surface. They create additional links

    between the binder polymer molecules,

    the cellulosic fibers and the filler or

    surface pigment particles.

    The Cartabond range of crosslinkers

    comprises: Cartabond TSI liquid (Glyoxal-

    based)

    Cartabond EPI liquid (Glyoxal-

    based)

    Cartabond MZI liquid (Zirconium-

    based)

    Cartabond EZI liquid (Zirconium-

    based)

    Cartabond crosslinkers are highly

    reactive. They quickly crosslink binders

    as soon as water is evaporated from the

    paper surface in the drying section ofthe paper machine.

    Product Application Benefits Food contact

    compliance

    Cartabond TSI Multipurpose strength improver. Resistant to high temperature BfR 36

    Uncoated and coated and pH conditions in coating color (resp. up to 70C and 9.5) FDA 176.180

    offset printing paper,

    Cartabond EPI office paper, silicon- Multipurpose surface strength improver with optimized BfR 36

    release, carbonless paper FDA 176.180

    FDA 176. 170

    Cartabond MZI Activated Zirconium technology BfR 36 offers superior cost performance FDA 176.180

    Coated offset printing compared to benchmark FDA 176. 170

    Cartabond KZI paper (LWC, MWC) Activated Zirconium technology BfR 36

    offers superior cost performance FDA 176.180

    compared to benchmark. No ammonia smell FDA 176. 170

    Which Cartabond to selectCartabond name Reactive on Reaction Formaldehyde Permanent Reaction

    OH group COOH group speed Not easy repulping

    TSI, EPI ++ 0 +++ No No

    MZI, EZI ++ +++ No No

    CXI ++ ++ ++ No Yes

    0 - Low level : Not recommended + + - Medium level : Recommended +++ - High level : Highly recommended

    Cartabond Crosslinkers are selected both on the Chemical properties and the type of the

    Paper being produced.

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    title

    colour chronicle 2 | 2012 1

    paper

    Why use Cartabond ?Consequences of a Weak Paper Surface

    strength

    Damaging Factors

    Mechanical stress: rubbing forces on

    rolls, pull of printing ink (printing nip),

    high speed copies..

    Moisture: in drying roll sections,rewetting before calendering, fountain

    water (offset printing)

    Physical Consequences

    Free and weakly bonded filler particles /

    fibers / coated areas are easily pulled out

    of the surface

    dusting, linting, picking problems

    uneven surface properties (smoothness,

    gloss, adhesion, printability

    Operational consequencesPaper Processing: deposits on rolls (drying,

    calendering) & coating defaults (uneven

    coated layer)

    Printing process: degraded printability and

    print quality:

    Offset: deposits on blanket (piling,

    white spots due to picking, uneven print

    quality, ink contamination, equipment

    contamination (dust).

    Offset Printing & Wet Picking

    Water is absorbed on the hydrophilic areasof the printing plate, ink on the hydrophobic

    ones.

    Ink and water are transferred from

    the printing plate to the blanket and from

    the blanket to the paper. The paper goes

    through several presses to be printed by

    each colour before drying.

    Picking occurs when the ink film is split

    between the paper and the rubber blanket if

    the paper is weakened by water addition on

    the previous presses.

    Growing needs for Wet Surface Strength

    Upgrading

    Increase of filler contents - Use of

    PCC

    Increased use of Recycled Fibers

    Increase use of Eucalpytus, Bagasse

    High-speet Photo copiers / Offset

    Printers

    Development of Newspapers Upgrading

    (size press)

    Fountain WaterPrinting Ink

    NextPress

    Paper

    RubberBlanker

    PrintingPlater

    Picking Areaon Printing Nip

    How does Cartabond work ?

    Cartabond creates new bonds betweencellulosic fibers, binder and pigment

    particles at the paper surface. The

    surface structure is more resistant:

    dusting, picking and linting problems

    can be significantly reduced.

    Cartabond TSI liquid decreases the

    sensitivity to water of hydrophilic

    binders, such as starch, proteins, CMC,

    PVOH

    swelling of binder molecules is

    considerably reduced. bonds between cellulosic fibers and

    pigment particiles are more resistant.

    The Wet Surface Strength of Papers

    and Boards is improved considerably.

    This result in:

    Better Printability

    Reduced Deposits on operating

    rolls in wet conditions (offset

    printing, calendering.)

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    What do youneed

    Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd, BU Paper Specialties, P.O. Sandoz Baug, Kolshet Road, Thane 400 607, India.Tel: +91 22 2531 53 92, Fax: +91 22 2531 50 92, E-mail: [email protected], www.clariant.in

    yawtramsehtstahWto fix a sticky problem?

    Papermakers today are confronted with increasingly poor quality recycled fibers, which is pushing

    up the cost of deposit control. Now Clariant offers two solutions designed to tackle the problem atsource. Added to shower water, CartaspersPSM creates a hydrophilic coating that prevents stickies

    from adhering to machine wire, while Cartaspers SCH introduces trillions of tiny polymer particles that

    attach themselves to stickies and stop them clogging machines. The bottom line for paper producers

    is lower costs, less downtime and improved productivity, while the reduced use of solvents and deter-

    gents is good news for the environment. And thats a win-win situation whichever way you look at it.

    With CartaspersPSM and SCH liquids:

    designed to remove stickies at source

    Trademar

    kprotectedbyClariantinmanycountries.

  • 5/20/2018 Imerol Blue Majic Archroma

    17/24colour chronicle 2 | 2012 1

    leather

    Clariant predicts a summer paletteto cheer the sensesC

    lariant has introduced its new leathertrend booklet Fashion Up!, illustrating

    the four new trends in leather for Spring/

    Summer 2013 which indicate gradual rather

    than sweeping changes. This is illustrated

    in Clariants Modern World story that

    subtly updates minimalism. Classic

    summer trend stories such as Castaway

    and Bon Voyage are based around the

    coast and beach holidays and offer a

    relaxed and a dressy way to cover the look.

    Last but not least, the youth market is not

    forgotten with an urban-based trend calledYouthquake.

    Clariants Leather Trends -Spring Summer 2013

    This island theme works equally well

    for laid-back looks or more elegant styles.

    For men, desert boots and soft casuals

    emphasize large natural grains.

    The Look - Natural with a free Spirit

    The Look - Sharp, clean and very well

    groomed

    Castaway

    Seashells, flotsam and jetsam washed

    up on the white sandy shoreline are the

    inspiration for dry organic textures and a

    soft palette of summer pastels. Wooden

    soled sandals and dressier pumps in palenatural leathers look to the ocean with

    coral shaped heels and cowrie shell trims.

    Bon Voyage

    A retro Mediterranean cruise is the theme,

    reminders of summer vacation wear circa

    the sixties and seventies. Multi-coloredweaves, exotic reptile, large grains, suede

    and veg-tan leathers are introduced in

    spicy Mediterranean brights. This is an

    upbeat story, combining high summer fun

    with a touch of nostalgia, spanning dressy

    beachwear to after dark glamour.

    The Look Old time glamour with a

    sun-kissed appeal

    Youthquake

    This young urban fashion story celebrates

    inner city life. It is the development of the

    current nineties grunge revival, and also

    moves on the long running, man-tailored

    story. City neutrals spiked with acid brightsare seen for a mix of heavily distressed

    leathers and technical textures.

    The Look Young and streetwise with

    attitude

    Feel The Fashion - Colour Trendsfor Spring Summer 2013

    Colors undisputedly will remain animportant fashion driver in Spring-Summer

    2013 and range through the entire spectrum

    of the rainbow. Everything seems possible

    there is not just one theme, one look. On

    the contrary, it is increasingly a question

    of versatility, of variable combinations

    and of nuances. The new colors appear

    more sophisticated, subtler and more

    delicate working with them calls for

    great sensitivity. Many recall times past,

    with inspiration coming foremost from

    the 1950s. The overall impression is fresh,

    Modern World

    Clean angular shapes inspired by modern

    architecture and interior design update the

    minimalist fashion story. Smart officewear

    and formal mean business, with sharply

    contrasting blocks of color and bold

    graphic patterns. Smooth shiny textures

    with a firm handle are required for the

    sculptured silhouettes. Clear bold colors,

    subtle metallics and shimmer effects add

    impact to the simple lines.

  • 5/20/2018 Imerol Blue Majic Archroma

    18/24colour chronicle 2 | 201218

    leather

    bright and very summery, conveying

    optimism and lightness of emotion.

    Everything is now finer and frequently

    represented with significantly more gloss

    and metallic sparkles.

    Clariant has launched its new Global

    Color Card Spring/Summer 2013developed in close cooperation with

    MODEUROP, the Fashion Pool at DSI (Das

    Schuhinstitute GmbH). The three color

    themes Luminous Brights, Powered

    Pastels and Vivid Naturals present a color

    palette which ranges through the entire

    spectrum of the rainbow. The new colors

    appear more sophisticated, subtler, and

    more delicate working with them calls for

    great sensitivity. The overall impression is

    fresh, bright and very summery, conveying

    optimism and lightness of emotion.

    EasyWhite Tan ICIS InnovationAward Honors ClariantsRevolutionary Tanning ProcessClariants new EasyWhite Tan Tanning

    process, introduced to the global leatherindustry earlier this year, has been

    recognized by the 2011 ICIS Innovation

    Awards, receiving special mention within

    the Environmental Benefit Award. ICIS,

    the worlds largest information provider for

    the chemical and oil industries, assembled

    a distinguished panel of judges to consider

    entries from around the world.

    In the category of Innovation with Best

    Environmental Benefit, the judges cited

    the way Clariant, a leader in the field of

    specialty chemicals, had developed a more

    environmentally friendly leather-tanning

    product, and singled out the company for

    special mention. According to Judge Dr.

    Gregg Zank, senior vice president and chief

    technology officer at Dow Corning, the

    panel wanted to recognize that Clariant isdoing something significant here, with an

    interesting innovation that has an impact

    on sustainability.

    Clariants EasyWhite Tan process

    is considered the first fundamental

    advancement in tanning for 125 years.

    This simpler, safer way to tan leather

    reduces water and chemical consumption

    and waste-water salinity, compared

    with tanning based on chrome, phenols,

    aldehydes or vegetable extracts.

    We are extremely proud that ourcompany has received recognition of

    this kind and from an organization with

    the reputation of the ICIS, said Claus

    Reineking, the product manager for Wet

    End Chemicals. He is the third member of

    the Easy White Tan core development team,

    along with chemists Roberta Gamarino and

    Licia Trimarco, who conducted research in

    2006 at Clariants R&D facility in Italy.

    Claus Reineking: Our process uses 80%

    less salt and 50% less water than traditional

    tanning, with production times cut almostin half, from 14 to eight hours.

    Luminous Brights

    Soft, very quiet, and tranquil. Peaceful barely there. The minimalist color theme ranges from

    white to beige, from gently shimmering natural gold to cooler silver shades. Everything appears

    neat, discreet and bright, as if flooded with light, transparent and uncommonly sensitive just like

    the air, a delicate breath.

    Powered Pastels

    A little kitschy and seductive, yet still cool with a pinch of romanticism and the charm of the 1950s.

    Inspired by the world of candies, the pastel colors appear slightly sweet and just ask for contrasts

    with black and grey. A theme suggesting the perfect Florida holiday mood its pure joie de vivre!

    Vivid Naturals

    The vital energy of nature serves as inspiration. With the opulent vegetation and exotic fruits of the

    tropical rainforest in mind, the color palette is wide. It streams from sun yellow to fiery orange and

    rich red as well as from natural green to variations in brown.

    Feel the Fashion with Color Trends for Spring/Summer 2013

    Roberta Gamarino (left) and Licia Trimarco

    (right) from the Clariant Wet End Leather

    Application & Development Center in

    Palazzolo, Italy showing their ICIS Innovation

    Award at the award ceremony in London

    on December 2, 2011. Together with Claus

    Reineking, who could not take part at the

    ceremony, Roberta and Licia built the core

    invention team of EasyWhite Tan.

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    19/24colour chronicle 2 | 2012 1

    leather

    Inauguration of Clariant Booth by Mr. Claus Reineking Head, PM Wet end Chemicals and

    Mr. Ralph Schneider Head PM Finishing.

    Clariant at 27th India InternationalLeather Fair

    Clariants Leather Business Unit presentedthe new Innovations, performanceproducts, breathtaking fashion trends, eye

    catching leathers and exciting advances

    under the motto Sense the Difference at

    27th edition of India International Leather

    Fair organized by ITPO (Indian Trade

    Promotion organization) at Chennai tradecentre, Nandambakkam. Our exciting

    innovations were showcased in Booth

    No 3-17-B of hall 2/3.

    The India International Leather Fair is a

    one-of-a-kind expo that brings together the

    leather industry leaders to encourage new

    developments and advancements, enable

    the industry to assess the new global

    challenges and prepare to compete with

    the best in the world. The event aimed to

    showcase the latest technologies, designs,

    fashion trends and processes involved

    in the manufacturing of leather related

    products from raw material to finished

    products. It also focused on auxiliary

    products such as finished leather; shoes;

    shoe components - uppers, soles, heels,

    counters, lasts; leather garments, fashion

    accessories, leather goods - wallets, belts,

    gloves, portfolios, hand bags; saddlery andharness; machinery and equipment and

    chemicals.

    Our Clariant booth was formally

    inaugurated by Mr. Claus Reineking

    Head, PM Wet End Chemicals and

    Mr. Ralph Schneider Head PM Finishing

    on the evening of January 31, 2012.

    Mr R. Kumaresan (Head, BU Leather

    services), Mr. Sumanta Mukherjee (Head

    Marketing & Product Management),

    Mr Surjit Singh from Germany along

    with our sales & Marketing team were

    also present during the ribbon cutting

    ceremony.

    The next three days of the fair witnessed

    the flow of visitors from all over India and

    there were also many overseas visitors to

    our booth. Sustainability, Innovation and

    serving the Industry are the key messages

    emphasized by us.

    Taking center stage at the event

    was Easy White Tan, Clariants new

    industry standard-setting innovation. This

    technology has been developed usingClariants Granofin Easy F-90 Liquid,

    an organic compound that is not based on

    chrome, phenols or aldehydes. It provides

    a more environmentally friendly, safer

    and simplified tanning process that will

    have major benefits for tanners supplying

    almost every sector, from automotive

    leather to footwear. It removes the need

    to add salt during the tanning process as

    well as reducing the number of stages in

    the tanning process itself.

    A highlight from Clariants wet endrange was the new waterproofing agent

    DermaphobWA-71, specially developed

    for high-performance Water Repellent shoe

    uppers. The product is highly effective,

    even with very low application levels.

    In Finishing, the main focus was on

    more eco-friendly products and systems,

    eliminating or strongly reducing the

    solvents, combined with the finest

    aesthetics and high performance. Clariants

    new Aqualen topcoat systems, including

    Melio 09-W-66 and Aqualen Top GC-

  • 5/20/2018 Imerol Blue Majic Archroma

    20/24colour chronicle 2 | 201220

    leather

    2033 are designed to generate a wet,

    pleasant feel combined with excellent wet

    rub-resistance.

    The specialty chemical experts

    approach to improved environmental

    performance is further strengthened with

    AqualenTop IL, which provides an easy

    and effective intermediate lacquer for base

    coated leathers without the use of solvents.

    The new high gloss aqueous patenttopcoat Melio 09-T-42 is recognized as

    a breakthrough in water-based finishing

    systems replacing solvent-based topcoats.

    There also have been major

    developments in Clariants Oils & Waxes

    The show ended on 3rd February with

    a positive note and overwhelming response

    from our customers.

    It was indeed a great pleasure to

    participate in such Fairs as events like this

    are giving us the opportunity to collaborate

    with tanners, buyers, traders and designers

    from across the country to exchange

    ideas and business opportunities in the

    field of leather and chemicals. This is awonderful platform to showcase our new

    developments, innovative products and

    technologies and our expertise in meeting

    the customer needs, says Mr. Kumaresan,

    Head-BU Leather Services.

    Unveiling ceremony of the SS13 collection by Mr. I.S.Paul of Drish Shoes Ltd.

    Team Up !!!

    Range; with Clariants diversified range

    of special oil & wax products like Melio

    Wax PO-418, MelioOil PO-210, Melio

    Oil PO-212, it is possible to achieve special

    effects with specific surface textures.

    We have also presented the new Global

    Color Card for the season developed in

    close cooperation with MODEUROP, the

    Fashion Pool at DSI (Das Schuhinstitut

    GmbH) as well as its leather trendbooklet Fashion Up!, in preparation for

    Spring / Summer 2013.

    Our delightful dyeing with Melioderm

    and Supronil HK dyes added flavour to

    the set.

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    title

    colour chronicle 2 | 2012 2

    WhW ks after our he r e

    i

    teett

    r

    a

    ra

    What do youneed

    Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited, Leather Business, Kences Towers, 2nd Floor, 1 Ramakrishna Road, Tamil Nadu 600017, India.Tel: +91 44 2814 4136 / 7 / 8; Fax: +91 44 2814 4151. www.clariant.in

    Clariant, with its AqualenTopcoats NMP-free for years

    Due to our philosophy of protecting ecology and health, Clariants Aqualen Topcoat range has been free of

    nelauqAyldneirfyllatnemnorivneehT.sraeyrofenodilorryplyhteM-N staocpotecnamrofrep-hgihsreffoegnar

    for all kinds of applications, from glazed kid imitation to high-wear-resistant automotive leather. Enjoy the

    good feeling to be on the safe side: high performance topcoats without N-Methylpyrrolidone and low VOCs.

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    gleanings from press

    World Cotton Production toDecline Next Season

    Cotton experts have lowered theirestimates for cotton production fornext season as falling prices lead farmers

    to focus on alternative crops-but say rising

    mill use and lower cotton prices could fuel

    a rebound in world cotton trade.

    The forecast from inter-governmental

    group the International Cotton Advisory

    Committee (ICAC) comes after cotton

    prices jumped to a record high of US$1.64

    per pound in 2010/11, but dropped sharply

    in the current season.

    For the first time in three years, it says,

    the crop is less attractive than the main

    alternatives. As a result, the Secretariat

    projects global cotton area to fall by 8% in

    2012/13 to 33.3m hectares and production

    to drop by 6% to 25.1m tons.

    Cotton production is expected to

    decline in most large producing countries,

    with the exception of the US, Uzbekistan

    and Australia. However, after two seasonsat depressed levels, global cotton mill

    use is forecast to start again in 2012/13

    providing there is a recovery in global

    economic growth that boosts purchases of

    textiles products and consumption of raw

    fibers. Largely driven by demand in Asia,

    global cotton mill used could rise by 3% in

    2012/13 to 25.0 m tons.

    Together, rising mill use and lower

    cotton prices could fuel a rebound in

    world cotton trade in 2012/13. Imports and

    expected to jump by 9% to 8.4m tons. Asglobal production and consumption are

    expected to roughly balance in 2012/13

    global cotton stocks are forecast to

    increases only slightly, to 11.6m tons.

    Textile machinery firms line upat ITMA Asia 2012

    Despite the current global economicslowdown, leading textile machinerymanufacturers around the world are still

    attracted to prospects offered by the

    worlds largest textile producer China.This can be seen from the overwhelming

    response received by the combined textile

    machinery show, ITMA ASIA + CITME

    2012, which will be held at the Shanghai

    New International Expo Center from 12 to

    16 June 2012.

    India: Textiles & other clusterswill increase India-Africa trade

    The core sectors of cooperationwhich will be explored by IABC areAgriculture, including Agro-processing,Manufacturing, pharmaceutical, Textiles,

    Mining, Petroleum & Natural Gas,

    Information Technology and Information

    Technology Enabled Service, Gems and

    Jewellery, Banking, Financial Service

    (including microfinance), Energy, Core

    Infrastructure including Roads and

    Railways. The council met later in the

    day.

    During the meeting, the Cotton

    Technical Assistance Programme in

    the C-4 Countries (Burkina Faso, Benin,

    Clariant awarded the EUEcolabel for its AdvancedDenim Illustration Collection

    Clariant has become one of the firstcompanies to be awarded an EUEcolabel (Certificate number: ES-CA/016/007) for denim, in recognition of

    the sustainability benefits of its Advanced

    Denim process.

    The EU Ecolabel, also known as the

    EU Flower label, is considered one of

    the highest certifications, acknowledging

    that all stages in the production of

    a finished article have met the EUs

    stringent environmental protocols.

    Award recognizes Clariants ground-

    breaking innovation in sustainabledenim production for textile industry.

    Clariant, global textiles solutions

    provider, developed its own denim

    prototype clothing collection, working

    with a textile mill and laundry, in order

    to demonstrate that achieving Ecolabel

    certification for denim is a practical reality

    with its Pad/Sizing-Ox dyeing technology.

    Problems associated with traditional

    denim fabric production have contributed

    towards making Ecolabel certification fordenim difficult to attain.

    Clariants new Advanced Denim

    technology has simplified the finishing

    and dyeing of a fabric that accounts for

    some 14% of global cotton production.

    In the conventional denim indigo

    dyeing process, the fabric passes through

    a line of 10 to 14 vats, depending on the

    equipment used. Clariants Denim-Ox

    process brings this sequence down to 4,

    and its Pad/Sizing Ox reduces this furtherto just 1 vat. Both methods utilize the

    companys Diresul RDT dyes, which

    generate a broader spectrum of shades

    than usually associated with conventional

    indigo dyes but without its environmental

    problems.

    An environmental revolution is possible

    with Clariants Advanced Denim

    It has been calculated that if Clariants

    new Advanced Denim technology were

    adopted in the production of 25% of jeansworldwide, it would save 62 million m3

    of water/year, the equivalent of the water

    consumption of 1.7 million people.

    The new chemistry available would

    also eliminate the need to treat 8.3 million

    m3/year of wastewater, 220 million kWh

    of power would be saved and the carbon

    footprint of the industry in CO2emissions

    reduced accordingly.

    Added-value Advanced Denim

    process supports industrys globalfashion trends and efficiency goals.

    We needed to show our partners in

    the denim production chain that our new

    process could fundamentally improve their

    own environmental credentials and their

    ability to promote and market them, says

    Miguel Sanchez, head of global PL dyes

    in the Textile Chemicals business unit of

    Clariant. The EU Ecolabel endorsement

    illustrates that the Advanced Denim

    process is an essential element for thosedenim manufacturers who wish to benefit

    from the retail and consumer benefits that

    flow from Ecolabel status.

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    gleanings from press

    Chad, and Mali), Malawi, Nigeria and

    Uganda were also launched. The Technical

    Assistance Programmer in the cotton sector

    is an initiative of the Government of India

    under the umbrella of the India-Africa

    Forum Summit towards helping the above-

    mentioned cotton growing countries of

    Africa to build capacity, technical expertiseand thereby competitiveness in the field.

    IL&FS Cluster Development Initiative

    Limited is the Project Management Agency

    for implementing the project.

    Clariant Steps up innovationand expansion strategy in flameretardants

    With demand for safer, moree nv i r onm e n t a l l y - c om pa t i b l ematerials in smartphones, tablets and

    laptops, showing a steady increase, Clariantsteps up its support for the electrical and

    electronics (E & E) industry with capacity

    expansion and a pioneering manufacturing-

    efficiency advance for non-halogenated

    flame retardants.

    The speciality chemicals expert is

    adding a third production unit for its Exolit

    OP non-halogenated flame retardant at

    its site in Hurth-Knapsack, near cologne,

    Germany. It is the latest phase in Clariants

    on going capacity expansion for its

    phosphinate-based flame retardant productline, which has become a well-established

    halogen free alternative to brominated

    flame retardants for engineering thermo-

    plastics and other polymers in electric and

    electronic equipment.

    Government bans cotton exportswith immediate effect

    The Directorate General of ForeignTrade has banned the exports of cottonfrom India, the second largest producer and

    exporter of the commodity with immediateeffect, reports said.

    The move extends to expert for which

    registration certificates have already been

    accepted.

    Export against registration certificates

    already issued will also not be allowed

    DGFTs notification said.

    India has already exported 9.4mn bales

    (1bale=170kg) in the current marketing

    year (October to September), higher than

    Government estimates of 8.4mn bales.

    Reports said that contracts were signed

    for exports of 10-12mn bales, including

    the shipped amount.The decision to ban further exports

    took into account the trend of domestic

    consumption and depletion of domestic

    availability the Union Ministry of Textiles

    said in a statement.

    Availability has reduced to less than

    the production levels of 2009-10, and also

    reduced the carry forward figure below the

    advisable inventory level, it added.

    Higher export than anticipated in cotton

    season 2010-11 reduced the expected

    carryover of stock for the current cottonseason 2011-12, from 4.83 bales estimated

    by the Cotton Advisory Board (CAB) to

    about 3.3mn bales.

    Protect textiles firms byreserving 2.5mn cotton bales:AEPC

    Unlike china, the textiles industry isfacing exceptional hike of cottonprices and scarcity of cotton as India dose

    not have the policy of keeping cotton

    reserve.The surplus in cotton exports from

    India to China is creating a negative impact

    in the industry. A total cotton export in the

    current year has been more than 85% which

    has been shipped to China. The reason for

    China importing a huge quantity of cotton

    from India is to increases their cotton

    reserve to offset the price fluctuation in

    future and also to maintain a regular cotton

    supply to the textiles mills.

    Tirupur gets SGS testing Facilty

    SGS India, a leader in the inspectionverification, testing and certificationservices, announced that the company has

    recently inaugurated a new lab in Tirupur

    to serve the Knit citys textile and home

    textile manufactures, exporters, buyers and

    domestic retailers.

    The new world class testing facility

    located at College Road was inaugurated

    by Mr A Sakthivel, president of the Tirupur

    Exporters Association. The lab will serve

    clients with its enhanced restricted substance

    testing capabilities to meet requirements of

    International and Indian standards.

    Eastman completes expansion ofhydrocarbon resins

    Eastman chemical company has completedthe expansion of its hydrogenatedhydrocarbon resins facility in Middleburg,

    Netherlands. The Middleburg expansion,

    which is the third expansion of its Regalite

    hydrogenated hydrocarbon resins, has

    doubled capacity at the site since 2006.

    We continue to see the demand of

    our hydrogenated hydrocarbon resinsgrow around the world, said Brad Lich

    vice president and general manager

    of Eastmans coatings, adhesives,

    specialty polymers and inks business.

    This expansion, in combination with our

    de-bottlenecking of Eastotac hydrogenated

    hydrocarbon resins capacity in Longview,

    Texas, and our expansion of hydrocarbon

    capacity in Jefferson, Pennsylvania,

    demonstrates our commitment to growing

    with our customers and meeting demand in

    developing regions.

    EURO crisis to hit export growth

    Credit rating agency CARE recentlysaid that Indias export growth is likelyto be hit in the coming months due to Euro

    zone crisis.

    Though India is primarily a domestic

    economy. Indias exports are positively

    linked to the global economic growth. This

    is likely to adversely impact Indias export

    growth in the coming months,CARE

    said in a report entitled Impact of EuroCrisis and Global Slowdown on India.

    However it said that the growth will be

    only marginaly affected by the slowdown

    in the Euro region debt-stricken countries

    as Indias exposure is low.

    colour chronicle 2 | 2012 2

    Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited

    www.clariant.in

    Chief Editor: Prabhat Trivedi

    Editorial Co-ordinator: Rajendra GodeConsulting Editor: Philips AbrahamEditorial Board: Tushar Choudhary U.S. Shashikeerthy

    Nirmal Punjabi

    Feedback ?Send your suggestions/entries [email protected] Printed and Published by

    Prabhat Trivedi, on behalf of Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited

    Design by Point-n-Pixel

    Printed by Multiple Images

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    Our textiles expertise delivers outstanding effects.

    What do youneed

    Clariant is your partner for specialty chemicals and dyes, in every step of the tex tiles chain. Text ile mills,

    retailers and brand owners we know what drives your markets, and we support you with a global

    presence, technical know-how and innovative solutions. Achieve outstanding effects through Clariants

    products, which impart flame retardance, water and oil repellency, antimicrobial protection, moisture

    management, soil release properties, UV-protection and more. Clariant is close to you. Any time. Any place.

    Why do the seats look as ifthis has never happened before?

    Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd., BU Textile Chemicals, Kolshet Office, P. O. Sandoz Baug, Kolshet, Thane (W) 40 0 607, India.www.textiles.clariant.com, www.clariant.in