IN A NUTSHELL: YLISTS’ GUIDE FROM SAINT-JEAN-PIED-DU … · quite short. 3 km and you get to Alto d’Erro 795m; 20.8 km → 5.70 km to Zubiri Now the N-135 sharply bends down the

caminodesantiagobybike.co.uk All rights reserved. Copyright Katarzyna Kostrzewska

IN A NUTSHELL: CYLISTS’ GUIDE FROM SAINT-JEAN-PIED-DU-PORT

TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA → → → 790.70 km

DAY 1: SAINT-JEAN-PIED-DU-PORT TO RONCESVALLES → 27.50 km

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (Aquitaine) is a charming mountain town at the foot of the

Pyrenees (from French “Saint John at the foot of the mountain pass”) with cobbled streets

and a citadel dating back to the 17th century French-Spanish wars.

Saint-Jean-Pied-du-Port to Roncesvalles

Frankly, the first day is a bit of challenge. The whole day long you will cycle along a tarmac

road, first the D-933 (France), which turns into the N-135 in Spain.

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (France) 207m → 6.90 km to the shopping centre “Valcarlos”

Cycling in a green valley…life is beautiful

“Valcarlos” shopping centre (Spain) 244m; 6.90 km → 0.90 km to Arneguy

A shopping centre with bars and a supermarket. Climbing starts from here, so you might

want to stop for a drink.

Arneguy (France) 230m; 7.80 km → 3.50 km to Valcarlos

The village is on the French-Spanish border. Soon you will leave France and enter the

Spanish village of

Valcarlos (Navarre, Spain) 339m; 11.30 km → 14.30 km to Puerto de Ibaneta


It is a good place to stop for a drink and freshly made sandwich, before all that climbing to

Ibaneta.

Puerto de Ibaneta (Navarre) 1,061m; 25.60 km → 1.90 km to Roncesvalles

According to tradition, this is the place where Roland died, the historical figure and main

character of the medieval “Song of Roland”.

Roncesvalles (Navarre) 957m; 27.50 km → 2.70 km to Burguete

Since time immemorial the monastery in Roncesvalles was a resting place for pilgrims

crossing the Pyrenees.

DAY 2: RONCESVALLES TO CIZUR MANOR → 53.40 km

Leave behind the austere monastery in Roncesvalles and cycle gently for 2.70 km to the

village of Burguete 893 m; 2.70 km → 4 km to Espinal

Burguete to Erro

Short ascents and long descents – cycling today is much nicer than yesterday. Stay on the N-

135 (that’s your road until Zabaldika) for another 4 km towards Espinal 876m; 6.70 km →

11.10 km to Erro

Day two starts nice and easy, hills are gentle, hillocks are rolling. And that’s how it is up to

the town of Erro (655m; 17.80 km → 3 km to Alto d’Erro). And then you will see a disturbing

hill. Yep, a beauty spot.


Good news is that the ascent is short, well

quite short. 3 km and you get to Alto d’Erro

795m; 20.8 km → 5.70 km to Zubiri

Now the N-135 sharply bends down the hill

and 5.70 km further leads you to

Zubiri 529m; 26.5 km → 4.60 km to

Larrasoana

Erro to Alto d’Erro. 150 meters elevation gain

A small, modern town with a lovely Romanesque bridge (12th century) crossing the river

Arga.

In Zubiri traffic gets heavier, so

use the hard shoulder and be

attentive. Cycle for another 4.60

km and soon you will get to the

small town of Larrasoana 503m;

31.10 km → 3 km to Zuriain

On leaving Larrasoana stay on

the busy N-135. Now you cycle

in a lovely wide river valley. Zubiri to Zabaldika

About 3 km further on you will get to Zuriain 480m; 34.10 km → 3 km to Zabaldika

After 3 km you pass through the small Basque-speaking town of Zabaldika (480m; 37.10 km

→ 0.50 km to car park/picnic area) with the 12th-century church of Saint Stephen.

500 meters further (6.50 km from Larrasoana) you will notice on your right a large car park

with a picnic area (455m; 37.60 km → 2.60 km to Huarte). Right behind the car park are a

small bridge and cycle lane which will take you to the centre of Pamplona - head for Saint

Magdalene Bridge (about 10 km). Your way is green, hedged with colourful bushes and

meanders along the River Arga bank. And it is flat.

After 2,60 km next to a small bridge and small waterfall you will notice a signpost to Huarte

447m; 40.20 km; → 8 km to Catedral de Santa María la Real de Pamplona

Stay on the cycle lane and follow the signposts to Pamplona (that are a bit confusing at

times). After three kilometres the cycle lane will run parallel to the street for 300 meters

and later will turn left (head for the small tunnel). In general aim for the white and green

signs with a bridge (trademark for Pamplona's St Magdalene Bridge). In moments of doubt

just cycle along the river.


The last leg of the cycle lane joins the Camino and you enter the city through Puente de la

Magdalena (St Magdalene Bridge), a medieval construction over the River Arga that has

served pilgrims since the 12th century.

Camino signs lead you around the citadel all the way to the city walls. You enter the

historical centre of Pamplona through Portal de Francia (French Gate 1553), the oldest one

in the city. Now follow the Camino waymarking through Calle del Carmen (in the 14th

century known as Rua de los Pelegrinos) and turn left onto Calle Navarreria. Two minutes

later you will find yourself in front of the Cathedral. Welcome to Pamplona, the city of bull

running!

Pamplona/Iruna 451m; 48.20 km → 5.20 km to Cizur Manor

The city is the capital of Navarre, formerly The Kingdom of Navarre. The oldest part of the

town is truly picturesque with its narrow and steep cobbled streets.

After a wander around the old part of Pamplona find the Camino arrows. They will lead you

to San Lorenzo church ( → 4.30 km to Cizur Menor), where a famous reliquary of Saint

Fermin is placed (Patron Saint of the city).

Bike lane in Pamplona. Iglesia de San Lorenzo to University of Navarre Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors


Opposite the church, there is a bike lane (parallel to a street called Bosquecillo) which will

lead you out of the city. The path is marked with yellow and blue Camino signs. Cycle along

the park surrounding the citadel and then turn right (1 km from San Lorenzo; 50 meters

after the Camino sign for walkers pointing right). Try not to miss this sign as the cycle lane

forks and the other path goes around the park. Cross the street and continue cycling on the

cycle lane. As you are following the same route as the walkers they will constantly be on

your left and right. The cycle lane ends after 2 km at the edge of the park around the

University of Navarre (you can get your stamp here). Dismount from your bike and walk

across the small bridge. Continue cycling on the road in front of you towards Cizur Menor

(NA -7027) and after about 2.20 km you arrive at the small town of

Cizur Menor 457m; 53.40 km → 14.5 km to Uterga

The most distinctive building in this town is a Romanesque church dedicated to Saint

Michael Archangel, originally part of a monastery. The empty church is taken care of by The

Order of Malta, who proudly flies their flag at the top of the building clearly seen from a

distance.

DAY 3: CIZUR MENOR TO LOS ARCOS → 63.60 km

Cizur Menor to Uterga Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

In Cizur Menor (460m → 14.5 km to Uterga) follow the yellow arrows for 1.60 km, when the

Camino turns left to the fields (by the Camino signpost with “Puente La Reina Gares 17.2 km


Alto del Perdon 8.4 km”) stay on the tarmac road and after about 600 meters when your

road joins main road NA-6004 turn right towards the highway. At the roundabout choose

NA-1110 towards Astrain and Puente la Reina

Now you have to climb up

the mountain and after 6.60

km (from the roundabout)

will reach the summit

(664m). There you will

notice a signpost to Alto del

Perdon (NA-6056; very

secluded). If you decide to

cycle this road it adds 6 km

Cycling NA-1110 to the summit and decent to Uterga

– 3 km to Alto and 3 km back, as you have to come back to the place you are now standing

to continue your journey.

Then an excellent 3.50 km descent starts. In the beginning, you cycle on the NA-1110, later

on when you notice a signpost for Uterga and Murazabal switch to the NA-6016. Ride

underneath a highway and continue going down the hill to Uterga 490m; 14.5 km → 2.40

km Muruzabal

From Uterga continue cycling on a small, lovely road (still NA-6016) to the next pilgrim's

stop – the small town of Muruzabal (440m; 16.90 km → 2.60 km to Eunate) on a hill.

Don't take the road to Obanos but look for the arrows behind the church directing you to

Eunate (2.60 km). A field track leads you through vineyards and at 19.50 km (if you cycled to

Alto 25.50 km), you will find yourself in front of the octagonal church of Eunate.

Eunate 386m; 19.50 km → 2.30 km to Obanos

The Church of Saint Mary of Eunate is a 12th-century structure built with dressed stones on

an octagonal plan. It is surrounded by arches that recall the porticos of the Temple Platform

in Jerusalem.

After visiting Eunate get back on the main road (NA-601) and turn right towards Puente la

Reina. Minutes later you will see a signpost to Obanos and Puente la Reina (NA-6064). Turn

left as the signpost points out (if you go straight – the NA-601 will take you back to the

mountains).

Obanos 368m; 21.80 km → 2.50 km to Puente la Reina

Then cycle the NA-6064 towards Puente La Reina; at the entrance to the town, you will join

the NA-1110 that you already cycled along in the mountains. When you get to the town look


out for the first church, then turn left. Now you are at the small square between Padres

Reparadores Albergue and the Church of Crucifixion.

Puente la Reina 347m; 24.30 km → 4.70 km to Maneru

The town owes its name to the imposing bridge (Puente la Reina from Spanish: Queen's

Bridge). This Romanesque structure was built on the orders of King's Sancho III’s wife. The

11th-century bridge over the river Arga was constructed especially for the pilgrims going to

Santiago de Compostela.

When you arrive in the town there is a street (Waymarked with yellow arrows) right next to

the Church of Crucifixion which leads to the famous bridge. Cross over the bridge and turn

left, after 100 meters turn left again. Now you are cycling the NA-1110 towards Estella. At

the first roundabout, try not to go towards the highway or the road to Mandigoria.

Puente la Reina to Maneru Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

At this point, cycling the NA-1110 may give you a strong feeling of being lost as there are no

cars, nor good people to ask the way, no sheep, just nothing to reassure you that you are on

the right road. But as long as you don’t see big blue boards above your head and you are not

wiped out by trucks – it’s the way. The road itself is lovely and totally yours, as the highway

takes all the traffic. The road climbs up the green hills, then before Maneru, it makes a

descent. At 29 km you will get to Maneru (469m; 29 km → 2.90 km to Cirauqui), a village

that belonged to the Knights Hospitaller in the 13th century.

Stay on the NA-1110 (the Camino between Maneru and Cirauqui is also excellent to cycle).

Now you constantly see the highway on your right as the roads are parallel. Cycle gently up

and down the hills for the next 2.90 km and you will get to Cirauqui, an attractive town on

the top of a hill.

Cirauqui (465m; 31.90 km → 4.90 km to Lorca) is a pleasant old town with very steep and

narrow streets impossible to cycle but definitely worth visiting.


However, the main attraction is the roughly 400 meters of Roman road with a small bridge,

also built by the Empire. Follow the yellow arrows, cycle the Roman road and when you get

to the bridge switch to the NA-1110

I have to admit that I like the NA-1110, for cyclists it is a bit like dying and going to Heaven.

But before you release the brakes shouting with joy I have to say that this road differs from

a heavenly one by the presence of deep potholes in places you would never expect them.

So, watch out for them. Then, 4.90 km on you will get to the small town of Lorca.

Lorca 446m; 36.80 km → 3.80 km to Villatuerta

Stay on NA-1110. (You can also cycle on the Camino. Follow the yellow arrows and blue

posts. A field track runs parallel to the road along farmland; 5.20 km) 3.80 km further on and

you will get to Villatuerta 428m; 40.60 km → 4 km to Estella

About one kilometre later on your left, you will see the old Ermita San Miguel (Hermitage of

Archangel Michael) in an olive grove. It is a very old building dating back to the 10th century.

The Camino in Estella Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

Get back on to the quite busy NA-1110 for 3 km and then you arrive in Estella/Lizarra.

When you get to the centre of the town, you will notice a bus stop and a green metal bridge

on your left. Stop here, walk to the other side of the street and cross over the river Ega.

Cycle along the waymarked street parallel to the river. Pass next to the impressive closed

Church of the Holy Sepulchre; then probably the steepest bridge in Navarre; an albergue

municipal and when you get to a small square you will see the Palace of Kings and Queens of

Navarre on your right and steps leading to the Church of Saint Peter on your left.


If you missed a bridge never mind. You will get to a tunnel. Stop immediately after going

through it. You will be standing right next to the cloister of the Church of San Pedro de la

Rua. Use the lift to go down you will be at the other end of the street described above.

Estella/Lizarra 418m; 44.60 km → 2.30 km to Monasterio de Santa Maria la Real de Irache

According to a famous Spanish historian Estella is “the capital of Romanesque Navarre”.

Get back on to the NA-1110, direction Logrono and Los Arcos. You will also see a Camino

sign for cyclists suggesting staying on the NA-1110 (that’s the official name of this former

national road, although in the past the road functioned also as the N-111, N-111a, N-1110

etc. and I believe that in places you might happen upon an old signpost with its former

name).

2.30 km outside of the town, 200 meters after Ayequi you will notice a bus stop on your left

and a signpost to Monasterio de Irache (Monastery of Irache). Turn off the N-1110 onto this

side road and one minute later you will be in front of the monastery.

Monasterio de Santa Maria la Real de Irache 513m; 46.90 km → 5.70 km to Villamayor de

Monjardin

Dating back to the 8th century the Monastery of Irache was the first hospital for pilgrims in

Navarre, built a century earlier than Roncesvalles Monastery. There is a wine museum, but

much more popular is another spot - a wine fountain for pilgrims.

Now grinning broadly get back on the NA-1110. After 1.30 km you will see a signpost to a

very nice camp site with a restaurant, bar and shop. The road becomes more and more

deserted as it runs parallel to the highway.

You can make a detour to charming Villamayor de Monjardin 682m; 52.60 km → 11 km to

Los Arcos

My favourite part of this

route starts somewhere

between Villamayor de

Monjardin and Los Arcos.

The road runs across small

hills and your bicycle

continues to move of its own

accord. Cycling without

pedalling – that's what I like.

Villamayor de Monjardin and Los Arcos

Just before the town take the NA-8401 towards Los Arcos. Putting it mildly, the deadline for

laying a new surface on this road passed some 10 years ago.


When you get to the town look around for the church. When you see it turn left (straight

after the petrol station and before the steep hill in front of you) and stop 100 meters further

on when you get to a small bridge. To your right, there is the 17th century Gate of Castile.

You are in Los Arcos 451m; 63.60 km → 6.60 to Torres del Rio

DAY 4: LOS ARCOS TO AZOFRA → 63 km

You will start the day facing the hill you avoided yesterday. After cycling on the NA-8401 for

a few minutes you will get to the NA-1110 towards Logrono. The road is as fantastic as it

was yesterday – your bicycle moving on its own momentum, in other words, a very relaxing

start to the day. Enjoy it especially as later on, you will have to cross the mountains. 6.60

kilometres further on and you will get to Torres del Rio an attractive town on the hill, first

passing through Sansol, a second town on the top of the hill (they face each other).

Torres del Rio 458m; 6.60 km → 11.40 km to Viana

The real treasure in the town is the octagonal Romanesque Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro

(Church of the Holy Sepulchre). Its structure is the same as Eunate’s minus the exterior

colonnade.

If you have forgotten

how it is to cycle in the

mountains, the road to

Viana will refresh your

memory. For the next

11.40 km, you will pedal

among the vineyards and

olive groves. The road is

nice and empty but from

time to time fast trucks

Torres del Rio to Viana. 206 meters elevation gain

or sports cars will pass you so be careful, as you might not be easily seen from behind a

bend.

At the roundabout in Viana turn right as the signpost indicates and minutes later you will

stand in front of the city gate leading to historical centre of Viana, Navarre 476m; 18 km →

9.50 km to Logrono

The 17th-century pilgrim Domenico Laffi described Viana as “a fine town with a beautiful

church, so well ordered that it wanted for nothing. It has a splendid door with the most

beautiful reliefs”. The portal that so delighted Laffi still makes an impression today.


The N-111 (previously the NA-1110) between Viana and Logrono is quite busy and not so

cool to cycle. Cycling in between cars is not ideal but it is only 4.80 kilometres on the road

and later on, you cycle on a lovely cycle lane.

The thing is not to miss the point where the cycle lane starts. That's why I will go into detail.

Be alert when you start to see signposts for the highway. Later on you will notice signs for

“Observatorio de aves”, go past - the side road leading to the observatory, still going

straight and 50 meters further on you will notice on your right a big Camino sign, arrows,

signs for cyclists etc. This is also the point where the road forks. Leave the N-111 and start

cycling the Camino.

Camino in the centre of Logrono Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

This is your cycle lane which will lead you to and from Logrono. Now you are in the remote

outskirts of the city. Your cycle lane coincides with the Camino and is well waymarked. At

about the 26th km the lane crosses the street and becomes a lovely alley with lamp posts.

There is a river to the left. By the bridge, there is a big post with “Welcome” written on it.

The small white house on the bridge houses the very friendly Logrono Pilgrims' Information.

Camino arrows will lead you to the other side of the river (on the bridge switch to the

street) and then direct you via a narrow, cobbled street almost adjoined to the bridge, to


the historic part of Logrono. While cycling you will see all the most important sights and will

eventually reach Logrono Tourist Office.

Logrono 392m; 27.50 km → 11.50 km to Navarette

Logrono is the capital of the autonomous community of La Rioja, land of vineyards, famous

in Europe for the red wine.

The Camino in Logrono. Cycling towards Navarette. Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

Behind the Logrono Tourist Office, there is a roundabout with a big fountain (Plaza Alferez

Provisional). Take the street called Calle Marques de Murrieta which branches off from the

Plaza. It is a busy city street so take care (one remark – when cycling in Spanish cities give

getting ahead of the traffic a miss unless you want to meet surprised glances as the drivers

have no idea what you are doing). Cycle this street for about 1 km, pass a roundabout with

palms and at the next roundabout turn left onto Calle Duques de Najera.

There is a cycle lane parallel to the street which leads to the park. Follow the waymarked

Camino that cuts the park diagonally, then cross the street at the traffic light and cycle into

the next park. Cycle a lovely path planted with cypress trees. Later your path will meander

up and down amongst the vineyards.

You will pass La Grajera water reservoirs made at the end of the 19th century, after that the

Camino will go parallel to the highway and eventually yellow arrows will lead you on the dirt

road and bridge over the highway to Navarette.


Navarette 488m; 39 km → 5 km to Sotes

Mansions in the historical centre tell of the past glory of the town. However, the jewel in the

crown is the Baroque altarpiece in Iglesia de la Asuncion.

Navarette to Najera

Pass the albergues and church. There are several different streets that go around the

historical centre of the town. Choose any and a few minutes later you will get to Calle del

Arrabal, which will eventually lead you to N-120 (Calle Ctra. de Burgos) and out of the town.

When you get to the roundabout, take the road LR-342 to Sotes 662m; 44 km → 2 km to

Ventosa.

Sotes is a small town on the top of a hill when there choose the road to Najera (the LR-341)

and after some time you will get to Ventosa 631m; 46 km → 11 km to Najera.

Continue cycling on the LR-341 and when you get to a roundabout, aim for Aleson (the N-

120a). The road to Aleson is completely empty, with some lovely descents between

vineyards. Half an hour later and less than 11 kilometres on you get to the charming royal

town of Najera.

When you approach the city, head for the centre (centro urbano). The historical centre is on

the other side of the river, so stop as soon as you cross the bridge, dismount from the bike

and turn left.


Najera 490m; 57 km → 6 km to Azofra

Najera is a charming little town situated below a massive cliff on the banks of the Najerilla.

Its main monument is the fantastic Monasterio de Santa María la Real de Nájera, a burial

site of the Kings of Navarra.

In Najera follow the yellow arrows of the Camino. After cycling for about 6 km through la

Rioja vineyards you reach Azofra.

Azofra 551m; 63 km → 7.90 km to Ciruena

Azofra is a small town lost in the emerald green vineyards of La Rioja. Since the Middle Ages,

it is known for its hospitality.

DAY 5: AZOFRA TO AGES → 63 km Follow the yellow arrows as you are now cycling on the Camino. The dirt track to Santo Domingo de la Calzada meanders in and out of farmlands and vineyards. The surroundings are hilly and quiet. After 7.90 kilometres of riding without seeing a single house, you will then see the golf club (café) and arrive in the village of Ciruena (718m; 7.90 km → 6.80 km to Santo Domingo de la Calzada).

Azofra to Santo Domingo de la Calzada Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

Continue riding through the la Rioja countryside, uphill for the first kilometres. When the

Camino joins the LR-204, switch to the road and after the roundabout when the road forks;

go straight (like the Camino) and a minute later you will get to the entrance (closed for cars)

of the historical centre of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The street will lead you to the

Cathedral and an ancient hospital for pilgrims.


Santo Domingo de la Calzada 641m; 14.70 km → 6.60 km to Granon

Santo Domingo de la Calzada is a cathedral town in La Rioja that sprang up around the

hermitage of an extraordinary man, Saint Dominic, unquestionably one of the greatest

advocates of the Camino in history.

The Camino in the historical centre of the town is marked with scallops set in cobbles. From

the cathedral, the route runs through the streets all the way to the bridge and later on goes

through fields. The route is quite obvious and for a while parallel to the N-120. Some

disruption may occur near the building site of the A-12.

For the last kilometres the Camino wanders off the highway and then comes back again.

6.60 kilometres from Santo Domingo de la Calzada you will get to Granon 728m; 21.30 km

→ 3.70 km to Redecilla del Camino

Stay on the Camino which

between Granon and

Redecilla is a comfortable dirt

track. The fields you cycle

through are quite hilly and it

will stay like this all the way to

Ages. You will probably get

tired but still be able to do a

fair few more kilometres

today. Somewhere between

Granon and Redecilla del

Granon to Redecilla del Camino

Camino, you will enter the third Spanish autonomous community Castile and Leon

(Province of Burgos)

Redecilla del Camino 739m; 25 km → 1.60 km to Castildelgado

Redecilla is also mentioned in the 12th-century guide. There is a parish church with an

amazing Romanesque baptismal font in the shape of Heavenly Jerusalem.

The Camino dirt track runs parallel to the road. In less than 1.60 kilometres you will get to

Castildelgado 768m; 26.60 km → 1.80 km to Villoria de Rioja

The route to Villoria is a dirt track parallel to the main road for the first kilometre and later

on, it becomes a local tarmac road. 1.80 km on you will be in the hometown of Santo

Domingo de la Calzada

Villoria de Rioja 791m; 28.40 km → 3 km to Villamayor del Rio


The small town is proud of its son, a great man of the Camino. Santo Domingo was baptized

in the local church

Tarmac road runs along fields. You are still cycling up and down hills. When your tarmac

road crosses the N-120, the Camino turns left. There is a broad field track made especially

for pilgrims, parallel to the main road. Three kilometres on you will get to Villamayor del Rio

(780m; 31.40 km → 4 km to Belorado) with its shabby, but charming grapevine-clad

buildings.

You are still cycling on the pilgrim’s path with the N-120 all the time to your right. The

terrain is less hilly than before and after 4 kilometres of relatively easy riding you enter

Belorado 770m; 35.40 km → 5.80 km to Tosantos

Belorado was a strategic point on the map of Castile thanks to its geographical situation at

the small pass on the border with la Rioja.

Yellow arrows will lead you out of the town (Calle de Hipolito Lopez Bernal, Calle del Camino

de Santiago, Camino del Matadero). There is a Monastery of Santa Clara by the exit.

Behind the

bridge, the

Camino

becomes a

comfortable

wide gravel

path, prepared

for the jubilee

year of 2010 and

excellent for

cycling. The

Beldorado to Villambistia

Camino track is parallel to the main road but is at some distance. 5.80 kilometres further on

you enter

Tosantos 820m; 41.20 km → 1.90 km to Villambistia

Now the Camino moves further away from the N-120 and after less than 2 kilometres you

will get to Villambistia (768m; 43.10 km → 1.30 km to Espinoza del Camino)


A dirt track leads back to the N-120 and after cycling it for 1.30 kilometres you will reach

small and partly ruined village Espinoza del Camino (895m; 44.40 km → 3.40 km to

Villafranca Montes de Oca). From this point, the landscape around you starts to change. At

first, the narrow track widens and meanders up the hills. About 2 kilometres later, on your

right, you will see a single arch. 1.40 kilometre further and you get to

Villafranca Montes de Oca 937m; 47.80 km → 11.70 to San Juan de Ortega

For a short time, the town was a see. It was known for its 14th-century Hospital de la Reina

(or Hospital de San Anton Abad) that for ages was overcrowded with pilgrims

Villafranca Montes de Oca to San Juan Ortega Copyright OpenStreetMaps Contributors

The best option is cycling on the Camino, which involves around one kilometre of bike

pushing in total (there are these two-impressive super steep sandy hills on the way, just

impossible to cycle). This route is 11.70 km long and goes through mountains and woods. It

involves some climbing at the beginning (1161m; for about 4 km), then cycling in the forest

on a more level, but deep cut muddy road and finally around 6 km long very pleasant

descent.


The route is well way-marked,

scenic and I have to say that that I

like it a lot, but it should only be

done during the day when there

are a lot of pilgrims on the Way as

it is completely isolated meaning

absolutely nothing for 12 km.

You won’t be able to do it after

weeks of heavy rain either because

you will bury yourself in mud. But if all the requirements above are met that’s your route

(11.70 km). For the alternative routes check the website.

San Juan de Ortega 1017m; 59.50 km → 3.50 to Ages

San Juan built a hospice here for pilgrims.

From San Juan de Ortega to Ages take the Camino. The dirt track leads through woods and

although it lacks arrows the route is quite obvious. Ignore signs for the alternative Camino

(leading to Santovenia de Oca). After about two kilometres in the forest, you enter a glade.

A hundred or so meters downhill on stones and you get to

Ages 981m; 63 km → 2.30 to Atapuerca

Just in case you feel like continue cycling – getting to Burgos takes less than one hour and

a half…and the road is flat

DAY 6: AGES TO HONTANAS → 54.70 km

Continue cycling on the road, the BU-V-7012. 2.30 kilometres of a nice and easy ride among

the fields brings you to

Atapuerca 953m; 2.30 km → 2.70 km to Olmos de Atapuerca

Atapuerca is a small town at the foot of the limestone Atapuerca Massif, known worldwide

thanks to its archaeological site.

Continue cycling on the BU-V-7012 passing Olmos de Atapuerca (941m; 5 km → 19 km to

Burgos Cathedral), keep going straight on and when you cross the bridge over the railroad

take the road to Burgos marked as the BU-701.

Minutes later this road will lead you to a dual carriageway, the N-I that used to be the main

Spanish road from Madrid to Irun. Aim for Burgos. Even though most of the traffic left to the

nearby highway, the road still seems to be a favourite for some of the lorry drivers. Which

for cyclists is always good news. This will be your ‘cycling with the lorries’ experience today.

Fortunately, the hard shoulder is quite wide and you can complete the first part of the


experience in 10 minutes because it is a well-known fact that a scared person pedals faster.

Just keep your distance from Homo antecessors in cars and you will be fine

Olmos de Atapuerca to Villafria Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

Just before your road all of the sudden becomes a highway (at about 6 kilometre from

Olamos; 11 km), turn right towards Villafria (it is still the N-I) and at the roundabout over the

highway a minute later choose the road towards Villafria again.

When you get to the town take a side lane (separate from the road at about 10th km from

Olamos; 16 km). It is not the greatest part of the Camino, but you will have it done in 15

minutes as it’s only about 4 kilometres and believe me walking along the N-I is much worse

as this takes ages. Pass a roundabout over the highway and at the next traffic light switch to

the cycle lane.

Stop one kilometre further on at the traffic light where the cycle lane turns right and walk to

the other side of the street where McDonald’s is (Passeo de Juan Ramon Jimenez; on your

left; 14 km from Olamos; 19 km).


Cycle lane in Burgos. Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

There is a cycle lane marked out along this street (first on the left, then on the right). Burgos

Cathedral is 5 kilometres away from this point. 1.50 kilometres further on, cross a bridge

over a small river (by the small waterfall) and come into a lovely park.

On the bicycle lane with your back to the river, turn right to Burgos or left if you wish to visit

Cartuja de Miraflores (1 km away; an absolute must-see; for directions check the website).

The park you are in is called Fuentes Blancas and you are cycling along the River Arlanzon

and later on, you cycle along the river boulevard.

Leave the cycle path when you see the gate to the Cathedral - the 14th century Arco de

Santa Maria, one of twelve medieval city gates, converted in the 16th century into a triumph

arch; one of the symbols of Burgos.

Burgos 861m; 24 km → 10.30 km to Tardajos

Burgos as you probably realized cycling through its suburbs is a huge city and is of great

importance for Spanish economics. Burgos is also the historical capital of Castile. And its heart

is the Cathedral. Cycle lane will lead you out of Burgos Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors


Go back to the Cathedral square, cross it and ride through the city gate aiming for the same

bicycle lane you arrived in Burgos. When you get onto it turn right. The comfortable cycle

lane that brought you to Burgos will lead you out of the city. The lane is parallel to the N-

120 and for some time you will cycle next to the River Arlanzon.

Later on the main road branches away from the river and so does the lane. Ride the lane to

the end and then switch to the N-120 (there are plans to extend the bicycle lane, so make

sure that you are cycling parallel to the N-120).

There might be some traffic and strong wind, but the road has a wide hard shoulder, so it is

ok to ride on. Pass Villalbilla de Burgos (at 31 km) and at the roundabout keep yourself far

away from the highway, aiming for Leon (the N-120). Less than two kilometres on you get to

Tardajos (799m; 34.30 km → 1.60 km to Rabe de la Calzadas).

In Tardajos, switch from the N-120 to the Camino. For the next 1.60 kilometres the trail goes

into the local road. Less than ten minutes later you will enter Rabe de la Calzadas (835m;

35.9 km → 8 km to Hornillos de Camino.

Rabe de las Calzadas to Hornillos de Camino Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

For the next 53 kilometres or more you will cycle on field tracks. The road might be muddy,

but absolutely ok to ride. This part of the Camino is absolutely brilliant. You cycle on the top

of a plateau that gives you a feeling of riding on the roof of Europe. The landscape is austere

and cool; I have to admit that I find it beautiful in a different way. You are now cycling in the

Meseta Central, a plateau in the heart of the Iberian Peninsula. On the way to Santiago, it

stretches out from Burgos to Leon. The scenery around you will change as every part of the


Meseta has its own character. Only one thing will be constant – a feeling of insignificance in

relation to its open spaces. Personally, I find it very liberating.

The field track behind Rabe

de la Calzadas goes up. The

surroundings are

uninhabited so please do the

trail between Rabe and

Boadilla del Camino (about

47 km) only in the daytime

when you will see others

walking/cycling it too, not

too early or too late in the

afternoon. 8 km on and you enter Hornillos de Camino (823m; 43.90 km → 10.80 to

Hontanas).

Hornillos de Camino to Hontanas Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors


The trail between Hornillos de Camino and Hontanas runs on the top of the upland. The

field track goes up and down in between deserted hills and your only companion is the

raging wind. After cycling for about 6 kilometres you will pass San Boal (50 km).

Less than 5 kilometres

later you enter

Hontanas (887m; 54.70

km→ 7.80 km to

Castojeriz). The town is

hidden in a small basin,

so it emerges in front

of you quite

unexpectedly.

DAY 7: HONTANAS TO CARRION DE LOS CONDES → 52.30 km

Following the yellow way-markings leave Hontanas. A field track runs parallel to the local

road to Castrojeriz marked as the BU-P-4013. The Camino climbs up for a few minutes on

the hillside.

After about four kilometres the track turns into the BU-P-4013 and passes Convento de San

Anton (at 5.50 km), now impressive ruins of a monastery that used to care for those

suffering from St Anthony’s fire.

Continue cycling along the BU-P-4013 and in less than 4 kilometres enter Castrojeriz (790m;

7.80 km → 12 km to Itero de la Vega), a charming town founded by the Celtiberians and

later seized by the Romans who built a causeway to Galicia there.

The road from Castrojeritz to

Itero de la Vega is pretty

amazing. First, on leaving the

town, you will cross a Roman

road built on arches. Then you

have to negotiate a steep

elevation to get to the top of

the hill. From then on you will

cycle on the almost flat

terrain. Again, many kilometres with no people, no buildings, just open space and sky

stretching out and above your head.

After about 9 kilometres of cycling in this completely remote area, you pass a picnic place

and following the Camino way-marking, switch to the local tarmac road and then again to a

field track.


Shortly on the field track, you will pass hostel for pilgrims established in the historic 12th-

century Hospice of San Nicolas. Now you will cross the bridge over the river Pisuerga. The

bridge is actually a border between two Castile and Leon Provinces – Burgos and Palencia.

The Camino turns right and a few minutes later you enter Itero de la Vega (769m; 19.80 km

→ 8 km to Boadilla del Camino)

The landscape between Itero de la Vega and Boadilla del Camino is almost the same as

before – beautiful and austere. Eight kilometres of cycling on a flattish and wide sandy-

stony track and you get to Boadilla del Camino (784m; 27.80 km → 6.40 km to Fromista).

Outside Boadilla del Camino the landscape changes dramatically – now you are cycling along

the bank of the canal, which is very refreshing after 47 kilometres of desert. A path

overshadowed with trees goes alongside lazily flowing water – the track between Boadilla

and Fromista is undeniably the most picturesque part of the Camino in the Province of

Palencia.

Following the yellow arrows, cross the small bridge over the canal and on the tarmac road

parallel to the Camino, enter Fromista (789m; 34.20 km → 3.50 km to Poblacion de

Campos).

When you get to intersection turn left, don’t choose the main road but the smaller parallel

road that leads to a national monument: The Church of Saint Martin de Tours, one of the

Camino’s must-sees.

Following the arrows leave Fromista by Paseo de Julio Senador (signed also as the P-980)

and pass two roundabouts aiming for Carrion de los Condes. The tarmac road is empty most

of the time, although you might suddenly be passed by a car or truck, so be cautious. The

way is rather flat and after about 3 km you will pass Poblacion de Campos (787m; 37.70 km

→ 3.70 km to Revenga de Campos).

After 3.70 km of easy cycling you will pass Revenga de Campos (785m; 41.40 km → 2 km to

Villamentero de Campos) and 2 km later Villarmentero de Campos (791m; 43.40 km → 4.40

km to Villalcazar de Sierga).

4, 20 kilometres further on you will reach a very important stop on the Camino – Villalcazar

de Sierga (805m; 47.80 km → 5 km to Carrion de los Condes) and another national

monument, the Church of Santa Maria de la Blanca. The road to Carrion is mainly flat with

the exception of one gentle hill.

Carrion de los Condes 832m; 52.80 km → 17 km to Calzadilla de la Cueza

As a major town on the Camino, it used to have many medieval monuments. In the

following centuries almost, all of them were converted and today don’t have great artistic

value except for two – the façade of the Church of Saint James and the former Monastery of

San Zoilo.


DAY 8: CARRION DE LOS CONDES TO MANSILLA DE LAS MULLAS → 75.80 km

To start you will have to cycle almost 17 kilometres to get to Calzadilla de la Cueza. The track

used to be an absolute nightmare, let’s say like cycling on a cobbled street for 17 kilometres.

Since the surface was changed the experience changed diametrically. Now it is very pleasant

as you ride on bike-friendly fine-grained gravel.

Carrion de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

Leave Carrion de los Condes by the main road following the Camino way-markings. Pass the

church of Saint James on the right (100 meters of one-way street), cross over the bridge and

pass the Monastery of San Zoilo on the left.

At the first roundabout head for the N-120 and the Camino, at the next intersection go

straight on, following the pillars with scallops. For some time, you will be cycling on the

narrow, local tarmac road with single houses and later on a gravel lane.

This part of the track is completely isolated, so If you have to cycle it late in the day it’s

better to take the N-120 instead (the N-120 passes through Calzadilla de la Cueza).

However, during the day, it is excellent. Open countryside on the left and right, the sky

above you and the road in front of you.

The road is almost completely flat except for two little hills. After 17 kilometres of cycling

you reach Calzadilla de la Cueza (860m; 17 km → 6.20 km to Ledigos).

At this point, the Camino is close and parallel to the N-120. The path hedged with flowers

and tall grasses goes gently up and down. 6.20 kilometres from Calzadilla de la Cueza you

reach Ledigos (872m; 23.20 km → 3.20 km to Terradillos de los Templarios).

Many houses in this small town are made of clay that gives you the feeling of being in real,

non-touristic Spanish countryside-especially on lazy sunny days.


Just as before the Camino path runs parallel to the N-120 and soon you reach Terradillos de

los Templarios (884m; 26.40 km → 3 km to Moratinos). The town used to belong to the

Templars and according to legend, the brothers hid the goose that laid the golden eggs

here.

Between Terradillos de los Templarios and Moratinos, the track wanders away from the N-

120 and meanders up and down the hills among farmlands. About 3 kilometres further on

you reach Moratinos (861m; 29.40 km → 2.70 km to San Nicolas del Real Camino), a small

village with humble root cellars standing in a line.

Follow the Camino dirt road for 2.70 kilometres until you get to San Nicolas del Real Camino

(843m; 32.10 km → 7 km to Sahagun). This village like the nearby Terradillos belonged to

the Templars.

The track returns to the national road. In less than two kilometres after cycling under the

blue flyover you will say goodbye to Palencia. You now enter the Province of Leon. A bit

over four kilometres from San Nicolas, the Camino turns right and starts to run along the

riverbank. The path will quickly lead you to a brick church with a picnic.

The church you pass by is a shrine of Our Lady of the Bridge built in Gothic-Mudejar style.

The track goes diagonally across the fields not under the national road and joins one of the

back streets of Sahagun.

Sahagun 838m; 39.10 km → 9.90 km to Bercianos del Real Camino

Sahagun is a capital of the Romanesque-Mudejar style (12th and 13th century).

Continue cycling along the Camino meaning cycle straight on from the bridge and when you

get to the main street turn left. When the road forks turn left as the Camino way-markings

direct you.

The Camino arrows then leads you to yet another charming bridge on the opposite bank of

the river Cea. The track for pilgrims runs parallel to the road that quickly becomes the N-

120. Then track forks: the main track goes along some local abandoned road and is perfect

for cycling and the alternative one turns to Calzada del Coto. I had some bad experiences on

the alternative Camino, which goes through completely remote areas for many kilometres. I

would highly advise against taking this one.

Where the Camino forks is quite well marked (4.5 km from Sahagun). There is a large

information board; the alternative one runs across the bridge over the highway. To follow

the main route don’t cross the bridge and ignore the signs for Calzada del Coto or N-120.

Go straight on and then immediately turn right as the Camino arrows direct. Now you cycle

for kilometres on a small, most of the time empty, tarmac road passing walkers whose trail


is alongside. For me personally, it is truly the Meseta Central begging you – flat, empty,

treeless, more often than not overwhelmingly hot, pretty amazing I have to say.

Sahagun to Bercianos del Real Camino Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

After 9.90 kilometres from Sahagun and around 5.40 from the fork in the road, you will pass

Bercianos del Real Camino (856m; 49 km → 7.80 km to El Burgo Ranero) a small

municipality that has a flag with St James’s scallop.

7.80 km later (the road is exactly the same as before), you reach El Burgo Ranero (879m;

56.80 km → 12.70 km to Reliegos), slightly bigger, but other than that a similar looking

municipality to the one before.

The route between El Burgo Ranero and Mansilla de las Mullas (LE-6615) looks exactly the

same as for the last 50 km or so, except for one or two gentle hillocks as you get closer to

Leon. Reliegos itself (835m; 69.50 km → 6.30 km to Mansilla de las Mullas) is just another

small municipality typical of the area.

With walkers on your right, cycle for another 6.30 km to Mansilla de las Mullas (805m;

75.80 km → 4.50 km to Villamoros de Mansilla), another town mentioned in the “12th

century Guide”.

Mansilla is a town of Roman origin and was one of the stops on the Empire road leading to

Leon where the Roman legion was stationed.

DAY 9: MANSILLA DE LAS MULLAS TO ASTORGA → 68 km

The route between Mansilla de las Mullas and Puente Castro goes along a local but pretty

busy road (N-601). The Camino path, however, is wide enough for walkers, cyclists or even

horses so absolutely take it.

4.50 kilometres from Mansilla de las Mullas you will pass through Villamoros de Mansilla

(797m; 4.50 km → 1.90 km to Puente Villarente). When you get to the village switch to the


road and immediately outside the village take the path again and almost two kilometres

later you get to Puente Villlarente (802m; 6.40 km → 4.20 km to Arcahueja). When you

arrive at the Romanesque bridge, mentioned by Aimery and converted many times since,

walk your bike through pilgrim’s bridge or switch to the road.

Otherwise, continue cycling on the hard shoulder of a pretty busy local road. Meters before

the end of the village the Camino turns right and so should you. 4.20 km of cycling on a field

track and you will reach Arcahueja (847m; 10.60 km → 1.60 to Valdelafuente)

There is a change of scenery – as you get closer to Leon it becomes hilly again. 1.60 km on

you will pass through Valdelafuente (871m; 12.20 km → 2.80 km to Puente Castro) with its

warehouses and industrial plants. When the Camino joins the N-601 you can follow it (it will

take you to a sheer precipice) or stay on the road for another 500 meters or so and join the

Camino again where you will see a blue bridge on your right.

Currently Spanish are building yet another road so the blue bridge is closed. Follow the

Camino diversion. The yellow arrows lead to the remote sandy/gravel hills overlooking Leon,

slide down steep slope and eventually 2.50 km from the blue bridge you will reach Avenida

Madrid.

Puente Castro to Arena Leon Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

Cross the bridge and slide down the pavement as the Camino way-marking indicates. When

you get to the main road of Puente Castro (847m; 15 km → 4.40 km to Leon Cathedral),

practically the outer suburbs of Leon, switch to the street (Av. Madrid). Then stop at the

roundabout, cross the street and join the cycle path on the left (Av. Fernandez Ladreda).


Arena Leon to the old city Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

Cycle straight on and just before the roundabout with Arena Leon, turn right and cross the

street and switch to the road (the arena should be on your left) and almost immediately

take the second street on the right (with a sign indicating ‘centro urbano’). Carre La

Corredera will take you to the heart of Leon. When you pass the park there will be an

intersection in front of you.

A small road closed to cars to the right of the tiny petrol station is the street leading to

Leon’s old town. Take it and when you get to the church (on your left) go straight on the

partially closed for cars Calle Rua (metal shells and shells inscribed in yellow triangles on the

pavement show the route; currently mortal remains of yellow triangles). When you get to

the wide main street called Calle Ancha (the 19th-century building in front of you is a Gaudi)

turn right and a few minutes later you will find yourself in front of one of the most beautiful

Spanish cathedrals – Santa Maria de Regla.

Leon (883m; 19.40 km → 4 km to Trobajo del Camino) is a town of Roman origin and the

place where the Seventh Legion was stationed. Santa Maria de Regla is one of three

magnificent Spanish temples besides Burgos and Toledo, imitating the great French Gothic

cathedrals.

Take the street in the front of the Cathedral’s main façade (by the Tourist Information

Centre) called Calle Sierra Pambley and then immediately turn right into a street called


Damaso Merino. Following the Camino way-makings, keep going straight and when you get

to the fence turn right. Now you are standing in front of the Basilica de San Isidoro.

San Isidoro to San Marcos Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

Take the street right next to the church called Calle Sacramento, turn left behind the church

complex as indicated by a pillar optimistically informing you that there is only 306 km left to

Santiago (it’s 10 km more…at least for the cyclist). From now on the Camino guides through

the one-way streets, so ignore the Camino way-marking.

When you get to the tarmac street turn left and seeing the church tower to your left, turn

right. Cycle straight up to the large roundabout (Plaza de la Immaculata) and then turn into

the third street called Av. Gran Via de San Marcos that will take you to San Marcos, a jewel

of Spanish Plateresque-Renaissance architecture.

Following the Camino way-markings, cross the river; on the other side of the bridge, you will

see a cross and Camino arrows with a bicycle. At the roundabout go straight on. Now you

cycle on quite a busy road; when you see the green bridge for pedestrians you can cycle

over it or continue cycling on the street – both ways soon meet.

Now you are in San Andrés del Rabanedo, the municipality that has Saint James’ scallops on

its seal. Pass through and then cycle through yet another municipality - Trobajo del Camino

(845m; 23.40 km → 3 km to Virgen del Camino).

Then turn right onto a small tarmac road. You shouldn’t miss this turn - there are a big

yellow arrow and a blue plaque with scallops. Following the arrows go straight on through

an industrial area; when the road joins the main road keep straight on.


Now you are in Virgen del Camino (910m; 26.40 km → 4.30 km to Valverde de la Virgen).

On the left, you see a modern church built in the 1960s that contain a highly venerated 16th-

century wooden statue of Pieta. She is the Virgen del Camino (Our Lady of the Way),

patroness of the Leon region.

At the sanctuary, cross over to the other side of the street. The arrows will lead you to a

small tarmac road parallel to the N-120 you cycled on before. After about 2 km the Camino

will lead you through small paths and short but dark tunnels under a huge intersection.

Immediately after this, you get to a small hill; slide down the slope on a field track to

Valverde de la Virgen 905m; 30.70 km → 1.50 to San Miguel del Camino:

When you get to Valverde de la Virgen switch to the road. On the outskirts of the

municipality, you can cycle on the N-120 or switch to a parallel field track.

In San Miguel del Camino (906m; 32.20 km → 7.40 km to Villadangos del Paramo) stay on

the road. When you exit the municipality, switch to the Camino again. The path parallel to

the N-120 will soon widen and is excellent to cycle on.

After 7.40 km of cycling, you will get to Villadangos del Paramo (905m; 39.60 km → 4.50

km to San Martin del Camino) a small but thriving community.

Pass the albergue and almost immediately turn right onto a small street flanked with

houses, just as the Camino way-markings direct you. Pass the shop, cross the small canal

and minutes later your field track will be parallel to the N-120. Although your track is next to

the main road, it is wide and pretty good to cycle on. 4.50 km later you will pass through San

Martin del Camino (877m; 44.10 km → 6.90 km to Hospital de Orbigo).

In the village switch to the N-120 but when you pass San Martin del Camino take the wide

Camino field track again. The track is parallel to the N-120 and soon becomes narrow

crossing small bridges over numerous irrigation canals. Even though you are cycling next to

the road, the track is really pleasant. After 6.30 km the field track turns away from the main

road towards the right and about 500 meters later you will find yourself on a famous bridge

in charming Hospital de Orbigo (842m; 51 km → 11.80 km to San Justo de la Vega).

The Camino runs through the cobbled street, then goes straight ahead on Calle Santiago. At

the last house in Hospital de Orbigo the track forks – the route that turns right is not

suitable for the cyclists, so take the Camino track in front of you instead.

Soon the field track will take you towards the N-120. Keep on cycling the field track

alongside the road - there might not be Camino way-markings. At the traffic light go straight

on taking the tarmac road, parallel to the N-120 with a signpost for Santibanez de

Valdeiglesias. A few minutes later don’t turn right to Santibanez and ignoring the Camino

arrows pointing out the village, just go straight on and in a minute or so you will get back to


the N-120. Cycle the main road and after 100 meters take the Camino track to the right,

parallel to the road. Hospital de Orbigo to San Justo

When you get to the

roundabout, switch to the

tarmac road on your left. You

will cycle the Camino as far as

Astorga, so will occasionally

see arrows or posts. In the

meantime, the surrounding

landscape changes – it

becomes hillier and you can

see mountains on the horizon.

Change from the left to the

right side of the road as the Camino board points out.

When you turn off the main road onto the track you will see a small forest on your left and a

wire fence on your right. After about 1.20 km you will get to Crucero de Santo Toribio, a

stone cross, dedicated to the 5th-century bishop of Astorga. Decide here if you want to cycle

or rather walk down the road, as it is extremely steep. Now you enter San Justo de la Vega

(849m; 62.80 km → 5.20 km to Astorga Cathedral)

Take the main road to cycle through the town, then go across the bridge and almost

immediately turn right onto a field track parallel to the main road. At the end of the track,

turn left, as the arrow points out and cross over the railway track by a green, pretty

complicated bridge.

On the other side of the green bridge follow the arrows, turning left and then left again. At

the roundabout as the arrows indicate take the road that climbs up to the historical centre

of Astorga. At the end of the street, turn left and almost immediately turn right onto a very

steep road that will take you to the very centre of the town.

Pass next to a square with cafes and restaurants, the Camino leads diagonally through the

square. Cycle straight on as the arrows indicate. When you get to the red brick wall turn

right and seconds later turn left. The Disney type building in front of you is Gaudi’s Bishop’s

Palace, the Tourist Information is on your left; cycle straight on until you get to the front

façade of the Cathedral.

You are in Astorga (923m; 68 km → 3.90 to Murias de Rechivaldo) – a city of good

architecture and chocolate!


DAY 10: ASTORGA TO PONFERRADA → 52.40 km

Many pilgrims hold the view that this is the most beautiful day on the Camino. It’s also my

view, especially as I have a weak spot for both Astorga and Ponferrada. The cycling is very

challenging but highly rewarding. Add to it the overwhelming beauty of the surrounding

nature and you have the recipe for a perfect day.

Facing the cathedral, take the next left turn – the street is called Calle Porteria, pass

albergue San Xavier on the right and Convento de Sancti Spiritus on the left. Then turn right

and go straight ahead, and at the church turn left as the arrow indicates.

When you reach the small intersection, go straight on. A tarmac road will lead you to Murias

de Rechivaldo. Just before crossing the bridge over the highway you will go past the small

chapel of ‘Ecce Homo”.

The road is comfortable to cycle but at times is full of lorries and prone to accidents.

Additionally, the rising sun can blind drivers, so bear this in mind when cycling on it. As you

enter Murias de Rechivaldo (882m; 3.90 km → 4.50 km to Santa Catalina de Somoza) pull

off the road and take the Camino instead.

The Maragatos villages you pass through on your way to Compostela are well preserved,

although seem rather deserted. Murias de Rechivaldo has examples of typical Maragateria

architecture. It is worth cycling around.

Murias de Rechivaldo to Rabanal del Camino

Behind albergue Casa Las Aguedas the cobbled street turns into a gravelled path and the

landscape around you changes dramatically. You are cycling on a plateau and can clearly see


the mountain range in front of you. The landscape is mountainous without traces of human

presence. If you wish to see a tourist attraction, Castrillo de los Polvazares - the most

beautiful village in the Maragateria region, when you reach the tarmac road, the LE-142,

turn right towards Astorga. The village is 1.40 km away (come back the same way) and is the

most impressive.

If not, continue cycling and 4.50 km from Murias de Rechivaldo you reach another

Maragatos village Santa Catalina de Somoza (984m; 8.40 km → 3.90 km to El Ganso), a

positive place that seems to be always packed with pilgrims.

The local tarmac road between Santa Catalina de Samoza and El Ganso is rather flat and

easy to cycle although the surface should have been changed around 10 years ago. After

cycling your last, flat as a pancake 3.90 km part today, you will reach another classic

Maragatos village – El Ganso (1.016m; 12.30 km → 6.70 to Rabanal del Camino), definitely

less impressive, but possibly more authentic.

The tarmac road between El Ganso and Rabanal del Camino climbs gently for 6.70 km.

Rabanal del Camino (1124m; 19 km → 5.80 km to Foncebadon) lies at the foot of the

crossing of the Montes de Leon, a mountain range whose highest peak Teleno, is 2,188

metres high. Because of its strategic location, at least from the Camino de Santiago point of

view, Rabanal was an important town as early as the 12th century.

Rabanal del Camino to Foncebadon Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

From Rabanal del Camino onwards is uphill all the way. This stage of the Camino should be

done first thing in the morning (setting off from no further than Astorga) and only if the

weather is good. If it is not - the mountain pass might be very dangerous because the road

is exposed in many places plus the descent is long and extremely steep. If it starts raining or

the temperature suddenly drops stay in Rabanal as even if you could manage the ascent,

you won’t be able to descend and may get trapped.


The LE-142 rises

gradually for about 1.5

km. Then the road starts

to meander, and the

ascent becomes steep.

Brake before going into

the turns because car

drivers can’t see you

from behind the hairpin

bends. 5.80 km after

Rabanal del Camino to Foncebadon

Rabanal you reach Foncebadon, the last human habitation for 10 km or so.

Looking at this ghost village you would never imagine that for centuries Foncebadon

(1420m; 24.80 km → 2.30 Cruz de Ferro) was a thriving place. In the 10th century Ramiro II,

the King of Leon convoked a church council here, and the building of the church and

pilgrims’ hostel soon

followed.

From now on you won’t see

anybody other than pilgrims

as the mountains are

uninhabited. The ascent to

the Cross is steep at first and

then gentler. It is short but

not easy. After 2.30 km of

climbing you reach

Foncebadon to Cruz de Ferro

Cruz de Ferro (1496m; 27.10 km → 2.40 km to Manjardin).

For some reason, I always have the impression that from Cruz de Ferro it will be downhill all

the way. It won’t. The LE-142 climbs and drops until you reach Manjarin (1451m; 29.50 km

→ 7.30 km to El Acebo de San Miguel) a spot that might look like a garbage dump at first

glance but is rather an original pilgrim albergue.


Manjardin to El Acebo

The road starts to climb steeply for another 3 kilometres as you are on the verge of reaching

the highest point of the Camino (1505 m). When you pass the transmitting aerial on your

right, the road becomes flat(-ish) and soon will make a dramatic descent. The landscape is

breath-taking as the road is really high, exposed and nothing obliterates the view.

Foncebadon to El Acebo Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

You are already acquainted with the LE-142 and know that this road has a predilection for

bends particularly hairpin bends. So, bear this in mind when making the descent. Don’t

release the brakes even if it looks flat - it’s not and you might have trouble stopping. 7.30

km from Manjardin you reach El Acebo. When you get to the village, dismount from the bike

as the street is cobbled, steep and very slippery.


El Acebo de San Miguel (1181m; 36.80 km → 2.80 km to Riego de Ambros) with its stone

houses and disproportionately large wooden balconies is a charming village. Just like

Foncebadon the village was freed from paying taxes in exchange for the care of pilgrims.

On leaving El Acebo the LE-142 might look flat but it is just an illusion so again don’t release

the brakes. 2.80 km of going downhill and you reach Riego de Ambros (988m; 39.60 km →

6 km to Molinaseca), another mountain village with a grey stone church and houses that are

brooding over the cliff.

Riego de Ambros to Molinaseca. Crème de la crème of the LE-142. Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

The 6 km section between Riego de Ambros and Molinaseca is the crème de la crème of the

LE-142, meaning hairpin bend after hairpin bend, steep drops, attractive chasms, amazing

landscape, and certain death if you release your brakes even for a moment or stop

concentrating. The road descends, and you will now see the mountains from a different

perspective and at some point, you might feel like you are in South America.

On arrival in Molinaseca, leave the road and cross the river by the Medieval stone

pedestrian bridge.

Molinaseca (625m; 45.60 km → 6.80 km to Ponferrada’s Templar Castle) is a quaint village

at the foot of the Montes de Leon. The river Meruelo is banked up, forming a natural

swimming pool.

The narrow streets of Molinaseca will lead you to the statue of St James and the LE-142. The

road ascends gradually to descent slightly later. 6, 50 km out of Molinaseca you get to

Ponferrada.

Go straight on, pass an albergue on your left (next to the big car park and the second

roundabout, easily visible, but for some reason I always go past this albergue, if the same


happens to you just come back from the castle) and the wooden shed with Camino

information on your right; minutes later you will find yourself in front of the Templar Castle.

Welcome to Ponferrada (540m; 52.40 km → 4.60 km to Columbrianos)

The name of the city, the last major stop before you reach your final destination, Santiago

de Compostela derives from a bridge reinforced with iron bars (from Latin: pons ferrata –

iron bridge). The actual bridge was founded especially for pilgrim use by the bishop of

Astorga in the fourth quarter of the 11th century. The Templar Castle is the pride and joy of

town.

DAY 11: PONFERRADA TO VEGA DE VALCARCE → 40.80 km

The Camino in Ponferrada Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

Cycle up the hill along the castle walls heading for the old town area. The Radio Museum is

on your left. Go past the castle and museum. The church by the square with cafes and

restaurants is Basilica de la Encina. Cycle through the gate with the clock tower –The

Baroque city hall is in the large square.

When you get to this square turn immediately left as the arrow on the kiosk indicates. Cycle

down the hill and turn left onto the main road called Calle General Vives.

When you reach the roundabout with a fountain, turn onto the first street on your right.

Avenida de America will lead you out of Ponferrada. When you get to the roundabout at

the outskirts of the city, head for the bridge.


Cross the river and immediately turn right in the direction of Columbrianos. Where the road

forks cycle straight ahead on an avenue lined with plane trees. Pass the Red Cross point on

the left, then cycle through estates as the arrows indicate. The Camino is well marked by

pillars with arrows and will lead you through small side streets to

Columbrianos (553m; 4.60 km → 2.70 km to Fuentesnuevas).

Now you are cycling on a comfortable tarmac street, but the surroundings are rather dull –

rows of unremarkable houses from the 70s and farmlands. Looking around you might find it

hard to believe that soon you will be cycling along a lane in beautiful vineyards. Welcome to

El Bierzo!

2.70 km from Columbrianos you will reach Fuentesnuevas (517m; 7.30 km → 2.20 to

Camponaraya)

Just as before you will cycle along the local tarmac road passing houses and farmlands.

Follow the pillars with Camino arrows and 2.20 km from Fuentesnuevas you reach

Camponaraya (506m; 9.50 km → 5 km to Cacabelos).

When you get to the main road turn left and go straight ahead as the arrows indicate. At the

roundabout keep going straight until you see the winery on your left. Leave the tarmac road

there and switch to the Camino dirt track. The winery is at the very end of the town.

About 20 meters from the winery is a pleasant picnic area. The scenery around you will soon

change dramatically. Follow the Camino way-markings and cross the bridge over the

highway. A field track will lead you among lovely vineyards. There is a lot of going downhill

and then a short section on the tarmac before arrival in Cacabelos. The town is built on one

of the main streets that the Camino follows.

Cacabelos (506m; 14.50 km → 2.80 km to Pieros)

The Camino runs through the most important street in Cacabelos since the Middle Ages. All

the monuments and houses of local noble families sit along this street.

As you cross the bridge you will see the Baroque Santuario de las Angustias. Go past the

church near the albergue and cycle straight on. Pass yet another winery called Godelia on

your right and 2.80 km from Cacabelos you reach

Pieros (560m; 17.30 km → 6 km to Villafranca del Bierzo)

Leave the village cycling on the same road as before and minutes later turn right onto a

small tarmac road as the Camino arrows indicate. Then turn onto a lane as the signs direct

you. For the next 6 km, you will cycle among the beautiful vineyards of El Bierzo.


The views are

amazing and so is

the track. Cycling

is a bit of a

challenge because

the vineyards are

on small but

steep hills.

Personally, I

always find this

short part of the

Pieros to Villafranca del Bierzo

Camino mentally exhausting. On your way to Villafranca, you will pass the small village of

Valtuille de Aruba. 6 km from Pieros you will stand in front of the famous Puerta del Perdon

(The Portal of Forgiveness) of the Iglesia de Santiago (Church of Saint James) in Villafranca

del Bierzo.

Villafranca del Bierzo (510 m; 23.30 km → 5.70 km to Pereje) is the historical capital of the

El Bierzo region and one of the jewels on the Camino.

The Camino in Villafranca del Bierzo Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors


Villafranca del Bierzo is small and easy to cycle around. Go past Iglesia de Santiago, get to

the castle then turn right and at the roundabout with a shell, go straight on and minutes

later you get to the main square with rows of cafes and restaurants.

Pass Plaza Major and the church on your right (Iglesia de San Nicolas), and at the end of the

street turn left at yet another church (Collegiate de Santa Maria de Cluniaco). Cross the

bridge, ignore the other bridge and go straight on.

On leaving Villafranca the river Valcarce should be on your left (there are two alternative

routes from Villafranca, but only the main one using the road is suitable for cycling). When

the local road joins the N-VI, turn right and cycle on the pilgrim’s lane instead of the road. It

might be busy in the morning or early afternoon but later on is usually empty and really

comfortable to cycle. And so on for the next 15 km.

Villafranca del Bierzo to Pereje Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

Even though you are cycling next to the road this is an amazing part of the Camino. The

highway above you takes most of the traffic so you can just enjoy cycling in the quietness.

After 5.40 km the Camino turns left onto the local road and after about 300 meters you will

reach Pereje (549m; 29 km → 4.20 km to Trabadelo).


Get back to the N-VI and your comfortable pilgrim’s lane. About one kilometre before

Trabadelo, the Camino turns left onto the local road through the forest (in the evening just

stay on the N-VI).

4.20 km from Pereje you get to Trabadelo (572m; 33.20 km → 4.60 km to La Portela de

Valcarce).

For about two kilometres the Camino runs on local tarmac road (again in the evening just

stay on the N-VI) to join the N-VI later on. Everything is the same as before – the river

Valcarce hums to your left, the highway hums above your head, the cycle path is

comfortable, life is good. 4.60 kilometers from Trabadelo you reach La Portela de Valcarce

(601m; 37.80 km → 0.80 km to Abesmestas)

Leave the village by the N-VI and minutes later turn right in the direction of Ambasmestas

and Vega de Valcarce.

Abasmestas (614m; 38.60 km → 2.20 to Vega de Valcarce)

2.20 km further on you get to Vega de Valcarce (644m; 40.80 km → 2 km to Ruitelan).

Vega is mentioned in the 12th-century guidebook although the author doesn’t use the name

of the village but refers to the castle, Sarracin that overlooks it.

DAY 12: VEGA DE VALCARCE TO SAMOS → 48 km

The 15.70 km stage

between Vega de

Valcarce and O’Cebreiro

is long, tiring and of

course uphill, so it should

be done first thing in the

morning. However, as

you will see the views

are fabulous. Go past the

church and continue

cycling the local tarmac

road. It climbs very

Vega de Valcarce to O’Cebreiro

gently and 2 km later in Ruitelan (660m; 2 km → 1 km to Las Herrerias) it joins the N-VI

Cycle gently uphill for another kilometre and you will get to Las Herrerias (689m; 3 km →

8.70 km to Pedrafita do Cebreiro).


Vega de Valcarce to O’Cebreiro Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

If you don’t wish to visit Las Herrerias just stay on the N-VI. From now on it will get steeper

but is virtually traffic free as the highway above you takes it all. It is uphill all the way and

the views are amazing. Pass through Las Lamas (2.60 km from Las Herrerias) and past

several dozen meters high pylons that support the highway.

When the N-VI becomes parallel to the highway head for Pedrafita. From now on the road is

busier but also a little bit flatter. It is better to cycle on the hard shoulder. Around 500

meters before Pedrafita you say goodbye to Castilla y Leon. You are officially in Galicia.

Nothing is going to be the same again.

Pedrafita do Cebreiro (1109m; 11.70 km → 4 km to O’Cebreiro) is a small, but busy town.

Follow the signposts for O’Cebreiro. Now you are cycling on the LU-633 in the direction of

Tricastella and Samos. It is only 4 km to O’Cebreiro but it is constantly uphill and pretty

exhausting.

O’Cebreiro (1300m; 15.70 km → 3.30 to Linares) is a picturesque village surrounded by

mountains. It is one of the places on the Camino that is hard to forget.


Go back to the LU-633, make the descent and 3.30 km further on you reach Linares (1230m;

19 km → 1 km to Alto San Roque)

O’Cebreiro – Alto San Roque – Alto de Poio – Tricastela

Now you have to climb for about 700 meters until you reach Alto San Roque (1270m; 20 km

→ 1.60 to Hospital) marked with what logically should be a statue of San Roque, but

apparently is just a figure of a pilgrim facing the strong Galician wind. The wind is winning

the confrontation with the pilgrim on the verge of losing his hat.

Make a pleasant descent from Alto San Roque and then climb for a few minutes to Hospital

(1241m; 21.60 km → 2.70 km to Alto de Poio). On leaving Hospital you will have to climb

another mountain. 2.70 km later you will reach Alto de Poio (1335 m; 24.30 km → 3 km to

Fonfria).

As soon as you pass Alto de Poio there is a truly rewarding decent to Tricastela. The views

are fabulous. 3 km of cycling and you will pass through Fonfria (1290m; 27.30 km → 10.80

to Tricastela).

From Fonfria the descent is even more impressive. The road bends and drops steeply in

places. Make sure that you have your hands on the brakes all the time and enjoy the ride for

10.80 kilometres until you reach Triacastela.

Triacastela’s name (726m; 38.10 km → 4 km to San Cristovo do Real) derives from the three

castles, which existed in this area in the 10th century and today decorate the municipality’s

seal.

To get to Sarria via Samos, stay on the LU-633. The road meanders between emerald hills.

There are rocks to your right and a small river to your left. It is green and lovely. The road


ascends and descends gently – Galicia is still on its best behaviour. 4.20 km further you will

pass through San Cristovo do Real (622m; 42.10 km → 5.90 km to Samos) and several

hundred meters further Lusio.

Pass Renche and after a short but stunning descent, 9.90 km from Triacastela you enter

Samos.

The monastery in Samos (540m; 48 km → 13 km to Sarria City Hall) was founded in the 6th

century by Saint Martin of Braga (Martín de Dumio), extraordinary men not only by the

standards of his era. The monastery was an important stop on the Camino and from the

early Middle Ages, monks took care of the pilgrims.

DAY 13: SAMOS TO MELIDE → 75.90 km

The area around Samos is of great scenic beauty. Rocks covered with greenery to the left, a

river to the right. For the first 2.50 kilometres you cycle at the bottom of a gorge and then

you get into the open countryside. About the same time, it starts getting hilly and you are

on the point of discovering the unique property of Galicia that makes cycling here very

challenging – never-ending hills. Galicia is exceptional, as are those hills. The point is that

after the ascent there is no descent. The lie of the land belies both principles of physics and

common sense. As you get closer to Sarria, this unique property of Galicia starts to slowly

show up.

After about 10.30 km you will enter Sarria (481m; 13 km → 14 km to Paradela) rather busy

town that was, through the centuries, a favourite of the Counts of Lemos. They considered

the local castle their major seat. The Camino in Sarria. Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

If you don’t wish to visit Sarria, in the city, just keep going straight on until you see

signposts on your left indicating Camino de Santiago, with an image of a car and “Pradela,

Portomarin” written underneath. Turn left towards Portomarin as they indicate.


If you do – when you pass mini-roundabout turn left onto the second street on the left (the

first street with the Camino for walkers’ signpost is a one-way street). In the town follow the

Camino waymarking for cyclists. Minute later you will find yourself on Rua Pelegrino. If you

continue cycling along Rua Pelegrino, you get to the centre of Sarria.

Cross the river, then turn right and take the second street on the left. Pass the ruins of the

castle and minute later you will stand in front of the 14th century Iglesia de San Salvator.

Partially cobbled street in front of you is Rua Maior.

To get to the monastery or exit the town turn left by the Iglesia de San Salvador following

the Camino waymarking. Do not cross the footbridge and cycle straight instead. When you

get to the other end of LU-633 cycle towards Paradela and Portomarin.

Cycle the LU-633 in the direction of Paradela and Portomarin. The road goes up, down a

little, up and up and up again. This part of the Camino gives you the correct idea what

cycling in Galicia is all about. It is tiring and doesn’t give you immediate satisfaction, because

after the ascent there is not the expected descent.

After 14 kilometres

you enter

Paradela. Paradela

(607m; 27 km →

10 km to

Portomarin) is a

small town that

bears the cross of

Saint James on its

coats of arms.

Outside Paradela

Sarria to Paradela

the road climbs up for a while but soon you will have the opportunity to enjoy a wonderful

six kilometres long descent, the last proper one before Santiago de Compostela. 10 km from

Paradela you will enter Portomarin. The best view over the town is from the bridge.

Portomarin (406m; 37 km → 7.40 km to Gonzar) is situated on the banks of the Mino, one

of the main Galician rivers whose source is in Sierra de Meira (Lugo province) and flows into

the Atlantic Ocean in Portugal. The Mino flows through Ribeiro, a region famous for its

white wine.

In my notepad kept on the way I wrote about the road between Portomarin and Ventas de

Naron as - ‘typical knackering Galicia’. Now Galicia is going to show you its true colours.


Stay on the LU-

633 in the

direction of

Ventas de Naron

and Santiago.

After about 3 km

you will see the

Camino path on

the right. You can

stay on the road

or cycle the

Portomarin to Lameiros

Camino; just to let you know that there is some off-road cycling planned for today anyway.

At a village called Toxibo turn left, the Camino goes through the forest parallel to the road,

when it comes back to the road choose which one you like.

7.40 kilometres from Portomarin you reach Gonzar (555m; 44.40 km → 1.20 to

Castromaior). In Gonzar switch to the Camino track, after 1.20 km you will get to

Castromaior (593m; 45.60 km → 2.50 to Hospital de la Cruz), a typical Galician stony village

and 2.50 km later you reach Hospital de la Cruz (677m; 48.10 km → 1.40 to Ventas de

Naron).

As you leave the village, at the roundabout, head for Ventas and almost immediately turn

right as the Camino arrows indicate. After 1.40 km you will pass Ventas de Naron (705m;

49.50 km → 3 km to Ligonde).

The local tarmac road from Ventas de Naron to Ligonde is rather narrow; there is a green hill

to your left and a coniferous forest on your right. You are travelling through picturesque

Sierra de Ligonde. This time after the ascent there is a very pleasant descent.

When you pass the tiny hamlet of Lameiros, you will see a stone cross on your left,

considered the most famous on the Camino Frances. 3 km from Ventas de Naron you will go

past Ligonde (630m; 52.50 km → 1.20 km to Eirexe), a village that had two Kings staying in

the 16th century.

The next village on the neighbouring hill is called Eirexe/Airexe (627m; 53.70 km → 2.20 km

to Portos), which means church in Galician and indeed there is a church there dedicated to

Saint James.

The road to Palas de Rei (7.80 km) is nice and easy for a change. You will cycle on a narrow

tarmac road amongst the greenery. On your way, you will see the tiny settlement of Portos


(584m; 55.90 km → 5.60 km to Palas de Rei). Pass through the village Lestedo with its

church dedicated to Saint James, A Brea, with a nice bar; now the Camino runs parallel to

the N – 547 and in the village of O Rosario turns away from the main road to the left. After

climbing to Alto do Rosario the track descends to Palas de Rei.

Palas de Rei (560m; 61.50 km → 3.20 km to San Xulien do Camino)

The Camino in Palas de Rei Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

When you get to Palas del Rei, the arrows will direct you to the church; because of steps, get

back on the tarmac road and go downhill and when you reach the street turn right and

around 100 meters later turn left. You are cycling on Avenida Compostela, the main street

of Palas del Rei; on your right, there is a stone cross, the white building of the city hall and a

market square.

If you are very, very tired cycle the N-547 to Melide but if you are still ok take the Camino,

which although challenging is truly amazing. You are going to cycle through an enchanted

forest, at the bottom of a ravine, on a golden sandy track and on huge rocks. The greenery

makes a marquee above your head.

Leave Palas del Rei by the main road. The Camino track branches off the main road to the

right three times and comes back again. Stay on the road until you see the Camino on your

left going along the main road.


Follow the arrows and at the car park leave the N-547 for good (2 km from Palas del Rei).

After a very pleasant descent, you will arrive in San Xulien do Camino (476m; 64.70 km → 2

km to Casanova), a tiny village that took its name from the medieval hero, Patron Saint of

Travellers and Hostel Keepers - Saint Julian the Hospitaller.

1 km further you will reach Ponte Campana. The route to the next village is a bit difficult as

you have to cycle on the huge rocks. One kilometre further and you reach Casanova (475m;

66.70 km → 3 km to O’Coto)

Cycling on the tarmac road, pass in front of the albergue and then turn left onto the field

track as indicated by the arrow. Make a pleasant descent on the forest track then cycle on

the flat surface and up a hill again (about 1 km) finally switching to the tarmac road.

3 km from Casanova in O’Coto (481m; 69.70 km → 0.70 km to Leboreiro) you will find three

pleasant bars/restaurants. You have just officially left the Galician province of Lugo and

entered A Coruna. Turn left onto a field track and minutes later you will enter one of a kind

Leboreiro (450m; 70.40 km → 3.80 to Furelos)

From Leboreiro to Furelos there is a pleasant track made for the pilgrims. 3.80 km further

on you will enter Furelos (415m; 74.20 km → 1.70 km to Melide) by a medieval stone

bridge; a village with cobbled streets and the Church of Saint John.

The trail now goes through side roads to the centre of Melide. When you reach the main

road (Pulperia Garnacha and Ezequel to your left) keep going straight and after passing the

church (Iglesia de San Pedro) on the left, at the next roundabout turn left then immediately

right and left again.

A small street leads to the square that is the historical centre of Melide (453m; 75.90 km →

5.50 km to Boente) with its city hall and churches.

DAY 14: MELIDE TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA → 51.80 km

Many cyclists are tempted to cycle on the road instead of the Camino for the last stages of

the Way of Saint James. My advice is – do not. The very end of the Camino is a bit

challenging but skipping this part might leave you with the feeling that your Camino is

incomplete. So, unless you have an injury or serious problems with your bike, cycle on the

Camino. From now on just follow the yellow arrows.

Cycle along Rua San Antonio that branches off the main square. Behind the albergue

municipal first turn left and then right. Cycle up the hill, passing the cemetery on your way.

When you get to the main road turn left towards “Iglexa de Santa Maria” at the crossing.

Less than a minute later turn right towards the church, as the Camino way-marking

indicates.


Pass the church and cycle on the gravel road among greenery, farmland, and villages. Then

turn towards the forest and cycle at the bed of the dry brooklet. Cross the creek over the

huge stones, placed there instead of a bridge.

After a while, the Camino

joins the main road and

leaves it again and 5.50 km

later you get to Boente

(428m; 5.50 km → 2 km to

Castaneda), a small village

with a church that holds a

touching statue of Saint

James on a piebald horse.

The Camino leaves the main

Melide to Arzua

road in Boente and gracefully meanders among the greenery and after this, the Camino

joins the small tarmac road. Minutes later you will pass through Castaneda (420m; 7.50 km

→ 3 km to Ribadiso do Baixo):

The local tarmac road is comfortable to cycle on, on the way you will pass next to the small

hamlets of Rio and Pedrido. Soon the surface changes and the Camino turns towards a

eucalyptus forest. Then when you get to a built-up area after passing through another

Galician hamlet, there will be a bar with sun umbrellas on your right. Minutes later after the

cobbled street and slippery bridge with a very short railing you enter Ribadiso do Baixo

(310m; 10.50 km → 3 km to central Arzua)

The local tarmac road crosses the N-547, then curves round passing next to horreos and

houses of Ribadiso do Baixo to again join the busy road. A special gravelled path was

designed for the pilgrims so use it until it becomes a pavement; then switch to the road.

Now you are in Arzua (393m; 13.50 km → 5.50 km to Calzada) a town famous for its

artesian cheese.

In Arzua cycle on the road until you see a cobbled street on your left. Cycle this street,

passing the albergue municipal, Chapel of Saint Magdalena, parish Iglesia de Santiago, and a

private albergues. If you miss the cobbled street, next to the white church turn left and

minutes later turn right onto the other part of the cobbled street.

The cobbled street will soon change into a lane and lead you out of the town. The 18 km

stretch between Arzua and Arca is just cool, there are plenty of descents, cycling on the flat,

a few ascents and a variety of surfaces – sand, gravel, and rocks. It is technically a bit

difficult at times, so everybody is satisfied. You will cycle at the bottom of deep ravines, in


forests, among greenery and stony Galician villages. Just to let you know, you will cross

some local touristic trails that are also marked by yellow and white signs. The Camino,

however, is mostly marked by stone pillars in this area so in case of doubt, look out for

them.

The lane descends to the

bottom of the valley, then

crosses the river and

climbs up to the village of

Preguntono. On leaving

the village the Camino

goes through a small

tunnel under the N-547

and climbs up the hill

among the meadows.

Taking a look at Arzua

from here is a must.

Arzua to Lavacolla

When you pass through the village A Peroxa the path will meander among the greenery

until 5.50 km from Arzua you reach Calzada (387m; 19 km → 5.80 km to Salceda). Then

2.20 km long comfortable path overgrown with trees will take you to Calle. Cross the small

river by the narrow stone footbridge, then cycle on the gravelled track, pass yet another

village and turn into the forest and meadows.

When the Camino joins the main road, it means you are in Salceda (369m; 24.80 km → 4.90

to Santa Irene).

The Camino runs parallel to the N-547 first on the right, then on the left-hand side, where it

turns into the forest. The trail goes under the road, passing A Brea village and returns to the

N-547 again. At the big yellow restaurant on a corner, the Camino turns right onto a small

tarmac street.

The trail meanders for a short while and then enters the small but charming village of Santa

Irene (370m; 29.70 km → 2 km to Pedrouzo Arca)

On leaving Santa Irene the trail is on the right of the main road but soon switches to the left

side through yet another small tunnel. After cycling for a few minutes through the forest

you will get to A Rua. When you get to the main road turn left if you would like to stay for

the night in the next town, Pedrouzo (Arca; 270m; 31.70 km → 9.50 km to Lavacolla) or

cross the road and turn into the forest if you would like to continue the Camino.


A final 20 kilometres to Santiago are left in front of you. Turn into the forest and when you

get to the tarmac street, turn right and then left into the following eucalyptus forest, as the

Camino way-markings indicate.

Arca to Lavacolla is 9.50 kilometres; the first 4 km are downhill, then about 2 km uphill and

the rest is downhill again. Pass the village of San Anton and turn into the forest again. When

the track leaves the forest, it meanders along farmland and meadows. The descent to

Amenal is really pleasant; the narrow tarmac road you are cycling on will then cross the N-

547 through a small tunnel. The trail starts to climb up to Cimadevilla and continues going

up to the top of a lovely hill and later on down to a large roundabout.

The pilgrim’s path is now parallel to the main road to Santiago, nice and easy to cycle. A

fence separates you from Santiago’s airport in Lavacolla, so don’t be surprised to see planes

taking off above your head. The Camino is now clearly marked by hanging wooden

signposts. The trail moves away from the main road and runs parallel to the local tarmac

road until it turns right to San Paio. As soon as you pass the church there is yet another,

completely unnecessary hill. Cross the main road by the tunnel and after a few minutes of

cycling in the forest you enter Lavacolla (305m; 41.20 km → 5.60 km to Monte do Gozo)

where according to Aymeric, ‘Pilgrims travelling to St James are accustomed, for love of the

Apostle, to take off their clothes and cleanse not only their private parts but whole of their

body’.

The small river where pilgrims took a bath to welcome St James with all due respect is on

the Camino on the other side of the N-634; go across the tiny bridge and start your final

series of ascents to Santiago de Compostela.

Lavacolla to Monte do Gozo


I have to admit that I feel a deep resentment towards the first hill that in my opinion should

be wiped out. Since unfortunately, it is not you will have to climb it until you reach

Villamaior village; pass through the village, on the right, there are buildings of the Galician

TV, at the camping, San Marcos turn left and almost immediately right. Climb up the

penultimate hill and after the ascent gently cycle up the Monte do Gozo (377m; 46.80 km

→ 5 km to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela). Translated the name of the hill means

Mount of Joy because from its top you can see for the first time the towers of the Cathedral.

It is a place where everybody stops for a while before entering the city of Santiago. Many

are deeply moved standing on top of Monte do Gozo.

Monte do Gozo to Santiago Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

Now you have your final 5 km to the Cathedral.

Cycle down the hill and when you get to the main road turn left. From now on you will cycle

on a busy road to the centre of Santiago. At the roundabout keep going straight towards

“centro historico”. A hundred or so meters later, just before the next roundabout, you will

see on your right a road sign with “SANTIAGO” written on it.

Keep going straight on passing the consecutive roundabouts; the Camino is and will be on

the pavement on the left, parallel to the road you are cycling on (if there is heavy rain in

Santiago, don’t hesitate to switch to the pavement!).

As soon as you go past Sanctuario de San Lazaro on the left by the white tower-sculpture on

the traffic island, the road forks. You have to turn left onto the street parallel to the one you

were on.


Go straight ahead passing the blocks of flats; when you get to the big crossing keep going

straight on to a street between two rows of buildings. The street is cobbled and leads to the

historical centre. The Camino in Santiago de Compostela. Copyright OpenStreetMap Contributors

When you see the road sign ‘no cycling’ dismount from your bike and walk for the last

kilometre or so to the cathedral. I have to admit that originally, I tried to design a route that

would enable you to cycle up to the cathedral. But then I realised that it actually feels right

to walk to the cathedral those last hundred meters instead of taking a detour through the

labyrinth of side streets. You want to enter the cathedral via the route pilgrims have walked

on for the last thousand years. In the past horse riders also dismounted at this last stage of

the Camino because it felt like the right thing to do. So, do the same and walk down the

cobbled Rua San Pedro. The Camino to the Cathedral and Pilgrim’s Office Copyright OpenStreetMap

Contributors


Cross the street and walk straight on as the Camino way-marking indicates, now you are

entering the historical centre of Santiago; the route to the cathedral is clearly marked with

Perspex boards above your head.

Pass the church and through the narrow passage get to the square with the monument of

Cervantez; take the street on your right that branches off the square as the board indicates.

Minutes later you will see a side portal to the cathedral, don’t enter through this one, go

past and walk down the stairs or go around by the street on your right. Turn right onto the

cathedral square.

You achieved your final destination; you are in the front of the Cathedral of Santiago de

Compostela (267m; 51.80 km).

790.70 km - Congratulations, well done!!!

Obviously, you want to go inside, but don’t leave your bike on the cathedral square, leave it

safely in the post office or any luggage office instead. The closest post office is 3 minutes

away, on Rua de Franco, a street that radiates from Obradorio Square; to the right. Post

office is open whole day long from 08:30 am to 8.30 pm, Monday to Friday and on Saturdays

between 09.30 am and 1 pm. On Sundays and bank holidays is closed. You can leave a bike

there together with the panniers for only 3 Euros per day

Your other option is going towards the Pilgrim’s Office, that is situated on the first street

below Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos; stunning building to your left. On Rúa Carretas you will

find another post office and private luggage offices. Pilgrim’s Office is 5 minutes walking

distance from the cathedral.

Now return to the main cathedral square, called Plaza do Obradorio. Go up the

monumental stairs and then go inside through Portico de la Gloria (it is still in restoration);

the figure in the centre is Saint James. Traditionally pilgrims stop there, touching the column

on which the Apostol is standing.

Currently, Plaza do Obradorio entrance is closed. Go around the cathedral on the right side;

at the entrance with the fountain join the queue. There is security on the door, so if you

would like to come for a mass bear in mind that getting inside may take 30-40 minutes.

However, during the day, you will be inside in five maximum ten minutes.

When you get inside you will see the main altar with a sitting statue of Saint James; his

tomb is beneath. Walk to the main altar from the right-hand side and at the small entrance

go upstairs to the seated statue of the Apostol, give him a hug and go downstairs. And then

at the other small entrance go downstairs to his tomb.

When you are ready to leave the cathedral, leave by the left-side entrance, as this entrance

is closer to the Pilgrim’s Office. Turn left, walk down the stairs, pass Praza do Obradoiro


(Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos is to your right) and turn right onto the first street (Rúa

Carretas) below the Hostal. There is a Pilgrim Office at the end of the street, also post office

and other luggage offices.

THE END

Documents

IN A NUTSHELL: YLISTS’ GUIDE FROM SAINT-JEAN-PIED-DU … · quite short. 3 km and you get to Alto d’Erro 795m; 20.8 km → 5.70 km to Zubiri Now the N-135 sharply bends down the