IN ASSOCIATION WITH ISSUE No. 4, LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK … VISIT THE DAILY ONLINE ISSUE No. 4, LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK MONDAY 5 MARCH 2012 IN ASSOCIATION WITH RUNWAY REVIEW Opening the showing

L A K M É F A S H I O N W E E K

REPORTING FROMFASHION’S FRONT LINE

VISIT THE DAILY ONLINEwww.lakmefashionweek.co.in

MONDAY 5 MARCH 2012ISSUE No. 4, LAKMÉ FASHION WEEKIN ASSOCIATION WITH

RUNWAY REVIEWOpening the showing with the signature tune of All India Radio, four male models sporting kurta-pyjamas walked down the catwalk holding lanterns. The mood quickly changed to Bollywood tracks of yore as Debarun Mukherjee took his guests on a retro journey of with creations moulded from chanderi, silk, crushed mulmul and cotton embellished with cutwork. The flared double layered dress featuring cutwork and ribbon embroidery worn with crinkled slim pants, the cutwork kameez and slim trousers and the chanderi cutwork fishtail lehenga with sari-inspired drape were stunners.

Farah and Firdos offers a wider wardrobe than first glance would indicate... using Bhagalpur silk with handmade textures. Keeping the silhouettes gently fluid, the duo showed a fire-emgine red jacket and hourglass dress in contrast to braided, butterfly and sari-draped versions. It all gelled for a complete picture of ways in which the traditional Bhagalpur silk could be guided down a contemporary path.

Vaishali Shadangule seemed to be looking for the harmony in asymmetry and layering. And what harmonious results her search produced, from the knee length bundis in Chanderi with Khand border, the miniscule Khand jacket and the kurta style blouse with overlap... sensually severe. If cut is one measure of a designer's skill, then this structured intense collection is one of the most promising stars in Indian fashion. Vaishali's underlying mission to revive the beauty of traditional Maharashtrian handloom (Khand) made her showing a reflective pleasure.

Cropped blouses and asymmetric flouncy tunics. Pleated dresses and one-shoulder togas with contrast tones. Panelled empire line creations and embroidered saris. Contemporary silhouttes were crafted from the traditional khadi... and a kind of rigidity at Purvi Doshi. The fact that her work defied general categorization was the hallmark of the designer's methodology. In retrospection, the collection took innovation to a place where "khadi" was moulded into elementary geometric shapes inspired by the circle, triangle and square.

Presenting the heritage of Andhra Pradesh, Sashikant Naidu blended a mix of Ikat, Kalamkari and Khadi with tussore and ahimsa silk in a traditional Indian pallete created with natural dyes. He conjured rustic-luxe images—filtering folk prints (flora, fauna and scenes of village life) through his glamorous yet practical lens. Dresses and skirts swirled down the catwalk while sari-inspired wraparound creations, hand painted one-shoulder asymmetric dresses and lehengas teamed with ruffled tops paid a tribute to the crafts of the state.

Soumitra Mondal showcased the richness of jamdani and khadi embellished with floral embroidery... and received a round of applause for the checked lehenga and textured kurta, the crinkled pants teamed with embroidered kameez, the sheer crushed lean tunic and the long two-tiered drop-waist maxi. The delicately embellished saris with resham

Krishna Mehta

Deepika Govind

2 LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK, THE DAILY Monday, 5 March 2012

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Debarun Mukherjee

Soumitra Mondal

CREDITS

Editorial

Editor Jasmeen Dugal

PhotographyNitesh Square Photography

Kedar Nene

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RUNWAY REVIEW

and sequins, the diaphanous anarkalis and the final ornate lehenga revealed the versatile character of the weaves to perfection.

It was life on the street and the apparel of the common people that inspired Paromita Banerjee. Using cotton muslin, khadi handlooms with resist and tie dyed techniques, Ikat dyed prior to weaving, chanderi and matka silk, she showed crushed pyjamas with long lean kurtas, ankle-length crimped empire-line midis teamed with jute waistcoats, multi-fabric printed saris and double asymmetric minis. We loved the hand block prints inspired by the sixteenth century chintz motifs and the Tree of Life design!

From the looms of Ilkal Karnataka, Deepika Govind wove a magical collection titled "The Woman in Blue Checks: Cauvery’s Tale". where cotton and silk checks and stripes from Salem, Chettinad, Narayanpet, Venkatgiri and Kanchivaram blended with Mushru cotton, Ajrakh and resist prints, silk and satin. Pulled apart, the collection should yield plenty of the strong, not-quite-vintage pieces that are HER specialty, like the saris worn in the Coorgi and mini styles, the indigo peplum top teamed with satin dhoti pants, the maroon checked kanjari top and the kimono-style electric blue asymmetric tunic worn over a mini skirt... we loved the embroidered black velvet cropped top teamed with a checked lungi.

The fine detailing i.e. rich brocades and cotton cutwork worked magic for Krishna Mehta. Home grown dyeing and printing techniques and the use of colour gave the kurtas, tunics, jackets, boleros, blouses, saris and shararas a distinct look. Krishna gradually built the tempo of the show with a grey cutwork appliqué jacket teamed with a long skirt and moved on to one-shoulder long sleeve tunics with gold embroidery, lace boleros and column dresses with churi sleeves. We loved the white panelled kalidaar kurta with red embroidered border teamed with double layered churidars and the black cutwork blouse teamed with a circular layered sheer skirt.

- JASMEEN DUGAL

Purvi Doshi

Vaishali Shadangule

Farah and Firdos

3www.lakmefashionweek.co.in


Talent Box

Sashikant Naidu

Anjana Seth

Gaurang Shah

Paromita Banerjee

Mayank Anand And Shraddha Nigam

Shruti Sancheti



Around Lakmé Fashion Week



Godrej Interior Design HQ presents Anita Dongre





Purab Kohli

RED CARPET Pic Credit: Manav Manglani

Sanjay Suri

Urmila Matondkar

Sushma Reddy

Maria Goretti



INDIAN TEXTILE DAY - KNOWLEDGE SERIES, DAY 1

The Knowledge Series at The Source proved to be an enlightening experience for guests including the fashion fraternity and people interested in an educational experience on the science of fashion. Beginning with a panel discussion celebrating Indian weaves and crafts at 10.30 a.m. it culminated in an interesting interactive dialogue with Bibhu Mohapatra and moderator Maximiliano Modesti at 2:30 p.m. where the celebrated designer revealed the key to success in the fashion industry is belief in yourself, business acumen and exposure to the International market.

Documents

IN ASSOCIATION WITH ISSUE No. 4, LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK … VISIT THE DAILY ONLINE ISSUE No. 4, LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK MONDAY 5 MARCH 2012 IN ASSOCIATION WITH RUNWAY REVIEW Opening the showing