INDEX Volume 27 0 Issue 59 l 1985

Compiled by Patricia A. Fletcher

This issue comprises all of Volume 27

Mountains are listed by their official names and ranges; quotation marks indicate unofficial names. Ranges and geographic locations are also indexed. Unnamed peaks (e.g., Peak 2037) are listed following the range or country in which they are located.

All expedition members cited in major articles are included, whereas only the leaders and persons supplying information in the Climbs and Expeditions section are listed.

Titles of books reviewed in this issue are grouped as a single entry under Book Reviews.

Abbreviations used: Article: art. ; Bibliography: bibf. ; Obituary: obit.

A

Abi (Nepal Himalaya). 120 Abi Gamin (Garhwal Himalaya), I38 Abrego, Mari, 254-55 Accidents: Annapuma, 283-85; Chogolisa,

309; Everest, 258-60; 261-62, 264, 337-38; Kangchenjunga. 250-51; McKin- ley, 170, 171; Nanga Parbat, 332-33, 334; Pumori, 267; Satopanth, 296; Shiv- hng, 300; Trango Towers, 3 18-20; Tshe- rim Kang. 244-46

Acomazzo, Rick, 355 Aconcagua (Argentina), 238-39 Adam, BJaZeJ, 174 Adamant Group (Selkirk Mountains. British

Columbia), 2 I7 Adams, Ansel Easton. obit., 370-71 Adamson, Stephen, 291 Admiralty Mountains (Antarctica), 145,

150-51, 154 Afanassieff, Jean, 70-80 Aguas Sueltas (Patagonia), 241 Aizawa, KiJoji. 298 Alaska, arfs., 14-19, 20-29; 170-84

Alaska Range (Alaska), art.. 14-19; 170-81 Alaska Range: Peak 8110, 179; Peak 8715,

179; Peak 9420, 181; Peak 9900. 181; Peak 10200, 181; Peak 10206. 179; Peak 11300, 174, 177

Albert Markham, Mount (Transantarctic Mountains, Antarctica), 147

Alberta, 217-19 Alberta, Mount (Rocky Mountains, Can-

ada), 218 “Ales, Punta” (Greenland), 222 Alma Blanca (Argentina), 239 Alpamayo (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 227 Alpamayo Chico (Cordillera Real, Bolivia),

234 Alverstone, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains,

Yukon Territory), 213 Ama Dablam (Nepal Himalaya), 117,

269-73 Ambler, John V., 371 American Alpine Club, The: Alaska Sec-

tion 377; Blue Ridge Section, 377; New York Sectton, 377-78; Sierra Nevada Section, 378-79

385

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL. 1985

American Fork Canyon (Utah), 197 American Medical Research Expedition to

Everest, scientijic articles on. 264-65 Amphitheater Mountain (Cascade Moun-

tains, Washington), 189 An, Chang-Yeul, 289 Ancahuacanan (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru),

232

“Autarchia” (Greenland), 222 Avalanche Peak (Garhwal Himalaya), 140,

302 Avalanche Peak (Kichatna Mountains,

Alaska), 179-81

Ancocancha Este (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru), 231

Avalanches: Everest, 337 Avramov, Avram, 258 Axworthy, Mount (Dana Mountains, Ant-

arctica), 156

Anderson, Kim, 227 Andre, Michael, 265-67 “Angmagssalik” (Greenland), 222 Angole (Nepal Himalaya), 120 Amdesha Chuli (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Annapuma (Nepal Himalaya), 127, 283-89,

291

B

Annapuma II (Nepal Himalaya), 127, 281-82

Annapuma III (Nepal Himalaya), 127, 282 Annapuma IV (Nepal Himalaya), 127, 282 Annapuma Dakshin (Nepal Himalaya),

127, 290 Annapuma Himal (Nepal), 127-29 Annapuma South. See Annapuma Dakshin. Annapuma West (Cascade Mountains,

Washington), 187 Antarctica, art.. 143-57; 243, 244; ascents

in, 154-57; bib!.. 153 Anyemaqen II (Kunlun Mountains, China),

335

Badham, Michael K., 277 Bae, Seung-You], 281 Baffin Island (Canada), 218 Bahi, Antoni, 320 Balakun (Garhwal Himalaya), 140 Balbala (Garhwal Himalaya), 138 Balbala West (Garhwal Himalaya), 138 Ball. Gary, 249-50 Baltoro Region (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 3 18-20 Bamba Dhura (Garhwal Himalaya), 135 Bamchu (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Bandarpunch (Garhwal Himalaya), 141,

302 Bandarpunch Range (Garhwal Himalaya),

141 Bandarpunch West (Garhwal Himalaya),

141 Anzil (M&da, Sierra Nevada de, Ven-

ezuela), 225 Aoyagi, Kaoru. 301 Api (Nepal Himalaya), 134 Arabia, arf., 49-5 1 Arakamtse (Nenal Himalava). 120

Bandarpunch II West (Garhwal Himalaya), 302-3

Barkow, Mount (Dana Mountains, Antarc- tica), 156

Arctic, 218‘ ’ Arctic Institute Range (Antarctica), 143-45 Argentina, arrs.. 36-40, 42-48; 236-42 Arko, Vojslav, 241, 242, 243 Amiko Chuli (Nepal Himalaya), 13 1 Arrowhead, Mount (Wind River Range,

Wyoming). 206 Art, Alpine, art., 8 Artesonraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 227 Asajya Tuppa (Nepal Himalaya), 133 Ascents, Alpine-style. See Mountaineering,

Alpine-style.

Barman, Prosanta Kumar, 302 Barmatia (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Barnum Peak (Antarctica), 155 Barrard, Liliane, 332 Barrard, Maurice, 332 Barrera, Humberto, 236, 243 Barry, Mount (Antarctica), 156 Battle, James, 227-28, 229 Bartlett, Alan, 191, 193-96 Bartram, Geoffrey, 338-39 Baruntse (Nepal Himalaya), 71-72, 80,

117, 256

Asgard Range (Antarctica), 145 Asta, 244-339 “Athena Tower” (Coast Mountains, British

Columbia), 215 Athens, Peter, 300-301 Ausangate (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru),

233

Baruntse Southeast (Nepal Himalaya), 72. 80

Bastille (Eldorado Springs Canyon, Colo- rado), 209

Bates, Robert H., 367 Batura (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 329 Batura Glacier Region (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 33 1; map sources, 339

386

INDEX

Baudha (Nepal Himalaya), 125 Bauman. Thomas, 179-8 1 Baume, Louis, 360-61 Beacon, West (Antarctica), 154 Beacon Rock (Oregon), 190-91 Becher, Gianni Pais, 221-22 Becker, Mount (Merrick Mountains, Ant-

arctica), 155 Beckey, Fred, 187, 196-97, 205, 216 Beghin, Pierre, 291-93 Behrendt Mountains (Antarctica), 155, 244 Belgtca Mountains (Antarctica), 148 Bella Vista (Patagonia), 241 “Belluno” (Greenland), 221 Belvis, Lluis, 275 Bendinger, Alberto. 36-40 Benkert, Mount (Antarctica), 244 Beorchia, Antonio, 237 Bepler, Thomas C., 197 Bergamaschi, Arturo, 244-46 Berger, Mount (Merrick Mountains,

Antarctica), 155 Berlin. Mount (Hal Flood Range, Antarc-

tica), 148 Berlin Wall (Boulder Canyon, Colorado),

211 Berry, Steven. 274 Betancourt, Jose, 225 Bethartoli (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Bethartoli South (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Betty, Mount (Queen Maud Mountains,

Antarctica), 155 Bhaeirathi (Garhwal Himalava), 139 Bhagirathi II (Garhwal Himalaya), 140,

297 Bhagtratht III (Garhwal Himalaya), 140,

297-98 Bhagirathi Parbat. See Bhagirathi. Bhairav Takura (Nepal Himalaya), 122 Bharate Khunta (Garhwal Himalaya), 140 Bhemdang RI (Nepal Himalaya), 123 Bhrigu Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 141 Bhrigupanth (Garhwal Himalaya), 102,

140. 300-301 Bhrikuti Shail (Nepal Himalaya), 127 Bhulu Lasa (Nepal Himalaya), 131 Bhutan, 11 l-12, 244-46; o/tin&s in.

Ill-12 Biafo Region (Karakoram Range, Pa-

kistan), art., 61-69 Biala, S.C., 302 Biancht, Graziano, 229-31 Bibler, Todd, 269 Bidhan. See Garhwal, Peak 6520.

Big Rock Candy Mountain (Colorado), 2 10 Big White Peak. See Loenpo Gang. Bijora Hiunchuli (Nepal Himalaya), 13 1 Binary Peak (South Georgia), 243 Bindu GUI Zom II (Hindu Kush, Pakistan),

334 Bishop Peak (Royal Society Range, Antarc-

tica), 152 Bitty Buttress (Boulder Canyon, Colorado),

211 Bjomstad, Eric, 217 Black, David, 355-56 Black Canyon of the Gunnison (Elk Range,

Colorado), 209 Black Peak. See Kalanag. Blanchard. Barry, 53-60 Blau, Kathy, 61-69 Blob Rock (Boulder Canyon, Colorado),

211 “Blonde.” See Staunings Alps, Peak 2050. Blot, Christian, 309-10 Bobaye (Nepal Himalaya), 134 Bojohagur Duanasir (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 329 Boktoh (Sikkim Himalaya), 115 Bolfvar (Merida, Sierra Nevada de, Ven-

ezuela), 22.5 Bolivia. 233-35 Bonete (Argentina), 239 Bongenaar, Jan, 326 Bonington, Christian, 326-27. 337-38 BOOK REVIEWS

The Armchair Mountaineer, David Reu- ther and John Thorn, editors, 348

Ascent: The Mountaineering Experience in Word and Imaaes, Steve Roper and Allen Steck, editors, 342-43 .

Beyond the Vertical: Layton Kor, Bob Godfrey, editor, 345-47

Catalogue of the Himalayan Literature, Second Edition, Yoshimi Yakushi, 360-6 1

Cervin: Belle Epoque, Gaston Rebuffat, 359

The Climber’s Guide to North America, Volume I: West Coast Rock Climbs, John Harlin III, 355

Climbing and Hiking in Ecuador, Bob Rachowiecki, 357-58

387

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1985

Everest: The Ultimate Challenge (A ste- reo sound history of sixty years of struggle to climb the world’s highest mountain), Quarry Lane Productions, 361-62

First Across the Roof of the World, Gra- eme Dingle and Peter Hillary, 360

Going Higher: The Story of Man at Alti- tude, Charles S. Houston, 362-63

High Altitude and Man, John B. West and Sukhamay Lahiri, editors, 350-52

Koma Kulshan: The Story of Mt. Baker, John C. Miles, 354

Mount Everest: A Jigsaw Puzzle, Heian International, 362

Mountain Names, Robert Hixson Julyan, 347

On Top of the World: Five Women Ex- plorers in Tibet, Luree Miller, 343-45

PO; 10s Andes de1 Ecuador, Jorge An- halzer and Ramiro Navarrete, 357-58

The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada, Jo- anne Urioste, 356-57

Rock Climbing in Britain, David Jones, 358-59

Rock Climbing in France: Locations and Descriptions of 279 Crags, Jean-Pierre Bouvier, 358

Die Schneeberge Ecuadors, Marco Cruz, 357-58

The Selkirks: Nelson’s Mountains, John F. Garden, 364-65

The Shishapangma Expedition, Doug Scott and Alex MacIntyre, 363

This Climbing Game: An Anthology of Mountain Humour, Walt Unsworth, compiler, 349-50

Vertigo Games, Glenn Randall, 348-49 Wasatch Rock Climbs, Les Ellison and

Brian Smoot, 355-56 West of Eden: A History of the Art and

Literature of Yosemite, David Rob- ertson, 353

Borg Massif (Antarctica), 148 Bouchard, John, 238 Bouchard, Titoune, 238, 239 Boulder Canyon (Front Range, Colorado),

209, 211 Boyer, Mount (Metrick Mountains, Antarc-

tica), 155 Braldu River (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),

cm.. 61-69

Brand, Eric, 276 Brenner, Eduardo, 36-40 Bridge Creek Wall (Cascade Mountains,

Washington), 187 Bridges, Joseph T., 192 Bridwell. James D., 269 British Columbia, 214-19 Broad Peak (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),

309, 312-16 Broken Peak (South Georgia), 243 Brooke, Mount (Antarctica), 154 Brookes, Cohn &hoe), 70-80 Brown Peninsula (Antarctica), 155 Bruce, Larry V., 70-80 Bucksnort Slabs (Colorado), 210 Buhler, Carlos, 238, 252-54 Burgundy Spire (Cascade Mountains,

Washington). 184-85 Burley, Mount (South Georgia), 243 Burphu Dhura (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Buscaini, Silvia Metzeltin, 241 Bush Mountains (Antarctica), 147

C

Cajdn (Argentina), 237 California, 191-97 Canada, 213-19 Canyonlands National Park (Utah), 202-5 Caquella (Cordillera Occidental, Bolivia),

234 Caracha (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru), 232 Caribay (Menda, Sierra Nevada de, Ven-

ezuela), 225 Carmen (Metida, Sierra Nevada de, Ven-

ezuela), 225 Carter, H. Adams, urr., 109-41 Casarotto, Renato, 172-74, 218-19 Cascade Mountains (Oregon), 190 Cascade Mountains (Washington), 184-90 Castro (Argentina), 239 Catama (Cordillera Occidental. Bolivia),

234 Catanani (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 233 Cathedral Rock (Cascade Mountains,

Washington), 189-90 Cathedral Spires (Alaska Range), 179-81;

ascents of, 172 Cauthom, Daniel W., 187 CB 10 (Himachal Pradesh), 303 CB 24 (Himachal Pradesh), 303 CB 31 (Himachal Pradesh), 303-4 CB 54 (Himachal Pradesh), 303, 304

388

Cerberus (Zion National Park, Utah), urr.. 5-7

Cesa-Bianchi, Cesare, 280 “Cesar.” See Staunings Alps, Peak 2500. Chabuk. See Sikkim Himalaya, Peak 6754. Chacraraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),

225-26, 226-27, 227-28 Chacraraju Oeste (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),

226 Chago (Nepal Himalaya), 116 Chako (Nepal Himalaya), 127 Chalab (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Chamar (Nepal Himalaya), 124 Chamlang (Nepal Himalaya), 117 Chamlang Central (Nepal Himalaya),

72-74, 80 Chamlang East (Nepal Himalaya), 72-74,

80, 117 Chamoux, Benoit, 294 Chand, Prem, 307 Chandi Himal (Nepal), 134 Chandler, Chris, obir.. 366 Chandler, Mount (Behrendt Mountains,

Antarctica), 244 Chandra Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 139,

302 Chandra Parbat II (Garhwal Himalaya), 139 Changabang (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Changadi (Nepal Himalaya), 133 Changbu (Nepal Himalaya), 123 Changla (Nepal Himalaya), 134 Changla Himal (Nepal), 133-34 Changtse (Tibet), 119 Changuch (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Chaplin, Richard, 70-80 Charmoz. Aiguille des Grands (Mont Blanc

Chain), 224 Chatterjee, Kala Chand, 304 Chaturangi (Garhwal Himalaya), 140 Chaturbhuj (Garhwal Himalaya), 139 Chaudhara (Garhwal Himalaya), 135 Chaukhamba (Garhwal Himalaya), 139 Chaukhamba II (Garhwal Himalaya), 139 Chaukhamba III (Garhwal Himalaya), 139 Chaukhamba IV (Garhwal Himalaya), 139 Chaurabang (Nepal Himalaya), 130 Cheesmond, David Malcolm, urt., 53-60 Cheney, Michael J., 252, 255-56. 257-58,

261-62, 264, 265, 267, 273, 274, 277-78, 280-82, 283, 288, 291, 294-95

Cheo (Nepal Himalaya), 126 Chhibu Himal (Nepal Himalaya), 127 Chief’s Head (Front Range, Colorado), 206

INDEX

Chiguana (Cordillera Occidental, Bolivia), 234

Chikula We (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Chile, 236, 242 China, 111, 334-35; alritudes in, 111 China. See also Tibet. Chirbas Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 140 Chiring We (Garhwal Himalaya), 135 Cho, Chung-Sool, 294 Cho Aui (Nepal Himalaya), 119 Cho Oyu (Nepal Himalaya), art.. 88-92;

119. 274-75 Cho Pulu (Nepal Himalaya), 117 Cho Pulu II (Nepal Himalaya), 117 Chobutse (Nepal Himalaya), 12 1, 277 Chogolisa (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),

307-10 Cholatse (Nepal Himalaya), 120, 269 Chombu (Sikkim Himalaya), 112 Chomo Lonzo (Tibet), 1 I6 Chomo Pamari (Nepal Himalaya), 122 Chomolhari (Chomolhari Range, Bhutan),

112 Chomolhari Range (Bhutan), 112, 244-46 Chomoyummo (Sikkim Himalaya), 113 Chorten Nyima (Sikkim Himalaya), I13 Chorten Nyima Range (Sikkim/Tibet), 113 Chrobak, Eugeniusz, 340 Chugimago (Nepal Himalaya), 12 1 Chulu East (Nepal Himalava), 127 Chulu West (Nepal Himalaya), 127 Chum Kang (Chomolhati Range, Bhutan),

112 Chumangkang (Sikkim Himalaya), 113 Chumbu (Nepal Himalaya), 119 Chumhari Kang (Kilnla Kangri Range,

Bhutan/Tibet), 111 Chura Kang (Ktinla Kangri Range,

Bhutan/Tibet), 111 Churau (Nepal Himalaya), 133 Churchill (Greenland),-221 Churchill Mountains (Antarctica). 147 Churen East (Nepal Himalaya), 129 Churen West (Nepal Himalaya), 129, 294 “Cicero.” See Staunings Alps, Peak 2400. Citadel (Kichatna Mountains, Alaska),

179-8 I Clear Creek Canyon (Colorado), 210 Cleaver, Nigel, 302 Climbing meets: France, 223-24 Climbing regulations: Aconcagua, 238 Coast Mountains (British Columbia).

214-16 Coffield, Dana, 49-5 1

389

Coffin Top (South Georgia), 243 Cole, Scott, 240 Colonia, Hugo, 226 Colorado, art.. 9-13; 206-13 Colorado Mountain Club, The, 379 Colque Cruz (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru),

232 Colque Cruz II (Cordillera Vilcanota,

Peru), 232 Colque Cruz VI (Cordillera Vilcanota,

Peru), 232 Commonwealth Range (Antarctica), 147 Cdnderes (Patagonia), 241 Condotiri (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 234 Conness, Mount (Sierra Nevada, Califor-

nia), 192 Cook Mountains (Antarctica), 147 Copiapd (Chile), 236 Cordillera Blanca (Peru), 225-28 Cordillera Darwin (Tierra del Fuego), 243 Cordillera Huayhuash (Peru), 228-32 Cordillera Huayhuash: Peak 5297, 231;

Peak 5716, 228 Cordillera Occidental (Bolivia), 234 Cordillera Real (Bolivia), 233, 234-35 Cordillera Real (Bolivia): Peak, 5342; 233;

Peak 5396, 233; Peak 5398, 233 Cordillera Vilcabamba (Peru), 232 Cordillera Vilcanota (Peru), 232-33 Cordillera Vilcanota: Peak 5420, 232; Peak

5100, 233; Peak 5150, 233 Corpus Christi Buttress (Sierra Nevada,

California), 191 Couch, Marcos, 36-40 “Cream Roll.” See Garhwal, Peak 6538. “Cristina, Punta” (Greenland), 221 Croisot, Daniel, 311 Cronn, Gregg, 53-60 Cross Peak. See Thaple Shikar. Crow, Pieter, 234-35 CNZ (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru), 232 Cuevas (Argentina), 236-37 Culbreth, Wyman, art., 81-83 Cutthroat Peak (Cascade Mountains, Wash-

ington), 187

D

Daff Dome (Sierra Nevada, California), 195

Dale, Chris, 53-60 Damodar Himal (Nepal), 127 Dana Mountains (Antarctica), 156 Dang KUN (Nepal Himalaya), 121

Dangnog Ri (Nepal Himalaya), 121 Dangthal (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Danphe Shail (Nepal Himalaya), 133 Darcho (Garhwal Himalaya), 135 Das, Aniruddha, 302 Davis, Philip, 49-51 Davis, Steve, 377 DCkdny, Peter, 296 Denali National Park and Preserve (Alaska), 170-72; ~scenrs in, 172 Deo Damla (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Deoban (Garhwal Himalaya), 138 Dety, Julien, 14-19 Desmaison, Ret& 229 Devistan (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Devistan II (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Devtoli (Garhwal Himalava). t ‘47 . _ I

Dewe, Mount (Ha&erg Mountains, Antarc- tica). 156 Dhampus. See Dhapa. Dhapa (Nepal Himalaya), 130 Dhaulagiri (Nepal Himalaya), 129, 291-93 Dhaulagiri II (Nepal Himalaya), 129, 294 Dhaulagiri III (Nepal Himalaya), 129 Dhaulagiri IV (Nepal Himalaya), 129 Dhaulagiri V (Nepal Himalaya), 129 Dhaulagiri VI (Nepal Himalaya), 129 Dhaulagiri Himal (Nepal), 129-30 Dhaulasiri (Nepal Himalaya), 135 Dido, Mount (Antarctica), 154 Dingjung Ri (Nepal Himalaya), 121 Discovery, Mount (Antarctica), 147, 155 Diwanare (Nepal Himalaya), 120 Dobashi, Tsutomu, 273 Dogari Himal (Nepal Himalaya), 130 Dogpache (Nepal Himalaya), 123 Dogs, 226 Dolpo Himal (Nepal), 130 Dome Blanc. See Ramthang Karpo Ri. Dome Kang (Sikkim Himalaya), 115 Doria I& (Chile), 236 Dongkya Range (Sikkim), 112 Dongkya Ri (Sikkim Himalaya), 112 Dorje, Pema, 84-87 Dorje Lakpa (Nepal Himalaya), 122 Dotter, Charles Theodore, obir., 375-76 Doyle, Kevin, 53-60 Dragon’s Spine (Alaska Range), 179 Drohmo (Sikkim Himalaya), 115 Drohmo II (Sikkim Himalaya), 115 Due des Abruzzes, Pit. See Savoia Peak. Dudh Kundali. See Nepal, Peak 6042. Duff, Malcolm, 316-18 Dunagiri (Garhwal Himalaya), 136

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1985

390

Duncan Mountains (Antarctica), 147, 155 Dunn, George, 93-100 Durpata (Garhwal Himalaya), 138 Dzanye. See Sikkim Htmalaya, Peak 6584.

E

Ebert, James (Jim), 37980 Echeverria, Evelio, 229. 237, 239, 357-58 Edema, Cerebral, 28-29, art., 158-61 Edema. Pulmonary. (IT?.. 158-61 Edward, Mount (Sweeny Mountains, Ant-

arctica), 156 Egregio, Monte (Antarctica), 156 Eichom Pinnacle (Sierra Nevada, Califor-

nia), 191 Eisenhard, James, 269-73 Eitel, Hans, 279 Eldorado Springs Canyon (Front Range,

Colorado), 209, 21 l-13 Eleven Mile Canyon (Colorado), 210-I 1 Elk Range (Colorado), 209 Ellsworth Land (Antarctica), 244 Ellsworth Mountains (Antarctica), 148 Embick, Andrew, arfs., 61-69, 166-68; 184 Enderby Land (Antarctica), 148 Endicott Mountains (Alaska), 183-84 Endo, Haruyuki, 293 Englestad, Mount (Antarctica), 155 English Coast (Antarctica), 244 Equipment: Tape. art., 166-68 E&d, Philip, 377-78 Erebus, Mount (Antarctica), 145, 149-50,

152, 155 Ershler, Philip, 93-100 “Erto, Punta” (Greenland), 221 Estes Park (Colorado), 209- 10 Ethics, art.. 30-35 Europe, 223-24 Euser, Barbara J., 343-45 Everest (Nepal Himalaya), 117, 258-65;

clean-up of, 260-62 Everest (Tibet), arf., 93-100; 335-39; map

sources, 339 Executive Committee Range (Antarctica),

148

F

Fagan, Mount (South Georgia), 243 Fairweather. Mount (Fairweather Range,

Alaska), 183 Fairweather Range (Alaska), 183

INDEX

Fang. See Varah Shikhar. Fay, Mount (Rocky Mountains, Canada),

217-18 Fell, Mount (Antarctica), 156 Feguson Nunataks (Lassiter Mountains,

Antarctica), 156 Feuillet, Pierre, 326 Finger Mountain (Antarctica), 154 “Fimkoof.” See Neoal. Peak 6736. Fischer: Martin, 252 Fitz Roy (Patagonia), arts., 36-40, 42-48;

240-4 I , 242 Fitzsimmons, Thomas, 335-37 Flaca (Argentina). 239 Flatirons (Front Range. Colorado), 209 Fletcher, Patricia A., 359 Fluted Peak (Nepal Himalaya). See Singu

Chuli. Fluted Peak (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Foraker, Mount (Alaska Range). arr..

14-19; 171, 174; asccr~~s of. 172 Ford Range (Antarctica), 148 Fordham, Derek, 220-21 Forel, Mount (Greenland), 219-21 Forked Peak (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Fowler. Charles, 208 Framnes Mountains (Antarctica). 148 France, 223-24 Frances. Monte (Antarctica), 155, 156 Frank, Joseph, 84-87 Freese, Lloyd, 213 Freney Pillars (Mont Blanc Chain), 224 Frfas (Argentina), 239 Fridtjof Nansen, Mount (Duncan Moun-

tains, Antarctica), 147, 155 Friedrich, Peter, art., 36-40 Friesen, Tim, 53-60 Front Range (Colorado), art.. 9- 13; 206- 13 Fullalove, James, 70-80 Fuller, Carlton P., obir., 367 Funke, Christian, 232-33

G

Gabelhom. See Gandharva Chuli Gagnon, Jean-Francois, 14-19 Galarraga, Remigio, 228 Galbusera, Aristide, 229-3 I Galfy, Ivan, 257 Gallego, Jose Luis, 42-48 Gallego. Miguel Angel, at-r., 42-48 Gmaio Peak-West (Himalaya, Pakistan),

334 Ganchimpo (Nepal Himalaya), 123

39I

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1985

Gandharva Chuli (Nepal Himalaya), 129 Ganesh (Nepal Himalaya), 124 Ganesh II (Nepal Himalaya), 124, 278 Ganesh III. See Salasungo. Ganesh IV. See Pabil. Ganesh V (Nepal Himalaya), 124 Ganesh Himal (Nepal), 124 Ganesh Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 138 Gang Benchen (Tibet), 123 Gangapuma (Nepal Himalaya), 127, 283 Gangchenpo. See Ganchimpo. Gangotri (Garhwal Himalaya), I40 Gangotri II (Garhwal Himalaya), 140, 301 Gangotri III (Garhwal Himalaya), 140, 301 Gangotri Group (Garhwal Himalaya),

139-41, 296197, 301-2 . Gangphu Ri Nup (Tibet), 123 Gangphu Ri Shar (Tibet), I23 Garcilaso (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 227 Garden of the Gods (Front Range, Colo-

rado), 210 Gardner, Mount (Sentinel Range, Antarc-

tica), 157 Garhwal (India), art., 102-8; 135-41,

295-303; altitudes in. 135-41 Garhwal: Peak 6166, 301; Peak 6309, 302:

Peak 6504. 137, 140; Peak 6507, 138: Peak 6520, 138, 295; Peak 6523, 137; Peak 6526, 140: Peak 6535, 138; Peak 6538, 137; Peak 6541, 138: Peak 6547. 137; Peak 6557. 139: Peak 6559, 138; Peak6565, 139: Peak 6587, 139:Peak 6596. 137; Peak 6629, 138; Peak 6635. 137; Peak 6638, 140: Peak 6648, 137: Peak 665 1, 138; Peak 6660, 139; Peak 6684. 138. 139; Peak 6702, 139, 298; Peak 6715, 139; Peak 6721. 139; Peak 6730, 139; Peak 6760. 138: Peak 6770, 139; Peak 6772, 139; Peak 6775, 138; Peak 6796, 139;Peak 6805, 139:Peak 6910, 138zPeak6940. 13R;Peak6977. 138

Garin, Roland, 278 Garrett, Ronald C.. 238 Gasherbrum II (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 311 Gasherbrum IV (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 311-12. 316 Gaugiri (Nepal Himalaya). 127 Gaurishankar (Nepal Himalaya), arr..

81-83: 120 Gaurishankar South (Nepal Himalaya),

120. 277 Gautam. G.V.. 305

Gautam Himal (Nepal), 131 Geldhung (Garhwal Himalaya), 138 Ghenge Lint (Nepal Himalaya), 123 Ghod Chadi (Nepal Himalaya). I21 Ghori Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 138 Ghosh, Bilwa Nath, 302 Ghustang North (Nepal Himalaya), 130 Ghustang South (Nepal Himalaya), 130 Giambisi. Almo, 255 Gimmigela (Sikkim Himalaya), I I3 Gimmigela II (Sikkim Himalaya). I1 3 Giobellina, Adrianne, 70-80 Glacier Dome. See Tarke Kang. G6mez. Juan Carlos. 3 1 I Gongga Shan (China), 335 Goode, Mount (Cascade Mountains, Wash-

ington). 188-89 Goodman, Donald J.. 335-37 Gorakh Himal (Nepal). 133 Gori Chen (Pachakshiri Range. India), 111 Gorra Blanca (Patagonia). 241 Gosainthan. See Shishapangma. Goth, Anil, 102-8 Gothics, East (Selkirk Mountains, British

Columbia), 2 I7 Gove, Walter R., art., 20-29 Graf, Frcdy. 332 Granite Peak. See Larkya. Grave Lake Dome (Sierra Nevada, Califor-

nia), 192 Greenland, 219-23 Greenland: Peak 2600, 222 Grim, Harry, 327-29 Guan Nelda (Himachal Pradesh), 304 Guan Nelda II (Himachal Pradesh), 304 Guha, Kamal K., 246-47, 301, 304 Guicha (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Guillaumet (Patagonia). 240-41 Gul Lasht Zom (Hindu Kush, Pakistan).

334 Gumba Chuli (Nepal Himalaya). 123 Gunn, Carolyn, 93-100 Gunson, Pat, 337 Gurans Himal (Nepal). 134-35 Gurja Himal (Nepal Himalaya), 129 Gurkarpo Ri (Nepal Himalaya), I22 Gurla Mandhata (Nepal Himalaya), 134 Gurla Mandhata (Tibet). 339 Gurney Peak (Kichatna Mountains,

Alaska). 179-81 Gurudingmar (Sikkim Himalaya), 112 Gyachungkang (Nepal Himalaya). 119 Gyala Peri (Namcha Barwa Range.

China/India), I1 1

392

Gyaltsen (Nepal Htmalaya), 123

H

Haberl, James, 177 Habermehl Peak (Muhlig-Hofmann Moun-

tains, Antarctica), 148 Hagerty Peak (Sweeny Mountains, Antarc-

tica), 156 Hal Flood Range (Antarctica), 148 Half Moon (Cascade Mountains, Washing-

ton), 189 Hall. Brian, 70-80 Hamer, Robin, 304 Hammer Dome (Sierra Nevada, California),

195 Hanging Glacier Peak. See Tripura Tumba. Hansen Mountams (Antarctica), 148 Hanuman (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Hardeol (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Hargis, Tom Hall, 187 Harlin, John, 208-9 Harmsworth, Mount (Worcester Range,

Antarctica), 151, 155 Hlrter, Gunther, 256 Hathi Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 138 Hauberg Mountains (Antarctica), 156 Hawley. Elizabeth, 252, 255-56, 257-58.

262, 264. 265, 267, 273, 274, 277-78, 280-83. 288, 289, 290-91, 293-95

Haydon Peak (Saint Elias Mountains, Alaska), 183

Hayes, Mount (Alaska Range), 181 Hayes Range (Alaska), 181 Heimefront Range (Antarctica), 148 Hembise, Dominique, 268 Henderson, Kenneth A., 370 Henrt Dunant (Greenland), 221 Heritage Range (Antarctica), I48 Herschel, Mount (Admiralty Mountains,

Antarctica), 145. 150-51. 154 Hersman, Willy. 380 Hess, Mount (Alaska Range), I8 I Hidden Peak (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),

310-l 1 Hiebeler, Toni. obit., 373-74 Higgins. Molly, 70-80 Hugh, Mount (Antarctica), 156 Hillary, Peter, 264 Himachal Pradesh (India), 303-4 Himalchuli (Nepal Himalava), art., 84-87:

125 . Himalchuli North (Nepal Himalaya), 125 Himalchuli West (Nepal Himalaya), 125

INDEX

Himlung (Nepal Himalaya), 126, 280 Hindle Glacier (South Georgia). 243-44 Hindu Kush (Pakistan), 334 Human, Mount (Behrendt Mountains,

Antarctica), 155 Hiunchuli (Nepal Himalaya), 129 Htxson, Edward G., 93- 100 Holt, Michael, 223-24 Hondius, Pieter, 379 Hongde (Nepal Himalaya), 130 Hongku Chub (Nepal Himalaya), 117 Hood, Mount (Cascade Mountains,

Oregon), 190 Hooker, Mount (Royal Society Range,

Antarctica), 152, 154 Hope, Mount (Queen Maud Mountains,

Antarctica), 155 Horlick Mountains (Antarctica), 147 Horsethief Tower (Labyrinth Canyon,

Utah), 200 Houston. Charles S., arts.. 30-35. 158-61,

162-65 Howe, David, 374-75 Huamashraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),

228 Huandoy (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 225 Huandoy Este (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),

225 Huandoy Norte (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),

227 Huantsan (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 227 Huarani (Cordillera Vtlcanota, Peru), 233 Huascaran Norte (Cordillera Blanca, Peru),

226 Huayna Potosi (Cordillera Real, Bolivia),

234 HuayNNni (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru),

233 Hudson Mountains (Antarctica), 148 Huggins, Mount (Royal Society Range,

Antarctica), 151, I54 Hughes, Alan, 242-43 Hughes Range (Antarctica), 147 Huiscachani (Cordillera Vilcanota. Peru),

232 Huiscachani II (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru),

232 Huiscachani III (Cordillera Vilcanota,

Peru), 232-33 Hultgren, Herbert N., 350-52 Hummingbird Spire (Canyonlands National

Park, Utah), 202 Hungchhi (Nepal Himalaya), I19

393

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1985

Hunter, Mount (Alaska Range), 171. 174, 177; ascents of, 172

Huntington, Mount (Alaska Range), 171, 177; ascenfs cf. 172

I

Ice climbing: Alaska, 184; Canada, 218-19 Ikualari (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Illampu (Cordillera Real, Bolivia), 234 Illimani Norte (Cordillera Real, Bolivia),

234 Imjatse (Nepal Himalaya), 120 Incaichuni Central (Cordillera Vilcanota,

Peru), 232 Incaichuni Oeste (Cordillera Vilcanota,

Peru), 233 Index, Mount (Cascade Mountains, Wash-

ington), 186 India, art., 102-8; 111, 112-16, 13.5-41,

295-307; altitudes in, 111, 112-16, 135-41

“International Expedition to East Greenland 1984” (Greenland), 222

Iowa Mountaineers, 379-80 Isachsen Mountain (Sor Rondane Moun-

tains, Antarctica), 148 Island Peak. See Imjatse. It (Greenland), 222

Jirbang (Nepal Himalaya), 130 Jirishanca Chico (Cordillera Huayhuash,

Peru), 229 Jobo Rabzang (Tibet), 12 1 Joe, Edwin C., 192-93 Jogin (Garhwal Himalaya), 140, 301 Jogin II (Garhwal Himalaya), 141 Jogin III (Garhwal Himalaya), 141 Johannesburg Mountain (Cascade Moun-

tains, Washington), 188 Johnson, Arthur Bradford, obir., 372-73 Johnston, David, 179 Johnston, Mount (Antarctica), 155 Jones, Christopher, A.G., 353 Jones Mountains (Antarctica), 148 Jongsang (Sikkim Himalava). 1 I5 Jorgeens&, Steven G., 267 “Jug” (Greenland), 222 Jugal Himal (Nepal/Tibet), 122-23 Junction Peak (Dhaulagiri Himal). See

Nepal, Peak 7108. Junction Peak (Kanjiroba Himal). See Shey

Shikhar. Jyachhyunga (Nepal Himalaya), 135

K

K2 (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 316 K7 (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 310 Kaban Nala Region TKishtwar Himalaya,

J

Jaccoux, Claude, 339 Jack Mountain (Cascade Mountains, Wash-

ington), 186 Jackson, Richard, 84-87 Jackson, Mount (Antarctica), 148 Jager, Claude, 310 Jammu (India), 304-5 Janak (Sikkim Himalaya), 115 Janak Himal (SikkimiTibet). 115 Jannu. See Kumbhakama. Jaonli (Garhwal Himalaya), 140, 301 Jasamba (Nepal Himalaya), 119 Jaumson Himal (Nepal Himalaya), 127 Jebel Misht (Oman Mountains, Arabia),

art., 49-5 1 Jejekangphu Kang (Lunala Range,

Bhutan/Tibet), 112 Jenkins, Mount (Sweeny Mountains,

Antarcttca), 156 Jervis, Steven, 349-50 Jethibahurani (Nepal Himalaya), 134

Kashmir), 304-5 Kabru. See Kabru South. Kabru II. See Kabru North. Kabru III (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Kabru Dome (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Kabru North (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Kabru South (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Kalaband Dhura (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Kalanag (Garhwal Himalaya), 141, 302-3 Kalanka (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Kalganga Dhura (Garhwal Himalaya), 135 Kali Himal (Nepal Himalaya), 117 Kalidhung (Garhwal Himalaya), 140 Kalindi (Garhwal Himalaya), 140 Kambon (Nepal Himalaya), 130 Kamet (Garhwal Himalaya), 138, 295 Kamet Group (Garhwal Himalaya), 138 Kami, Ang, 81-83 Kanchauni Lekh (Nepal Himalaya), 13 1 Kancheda Group (Chomolhari Range,

Bhutan), I12 Kande Hiunchuli (Nepal Himalaya), 131,

295 Kandumbu (Nepal Himalaya), 134

394

Kane, Mount (Playfair Mountains, Antarc- tica), 156

Kang Bum (Bhutan). 246 Kang Guru (Nepal Himalaya), 126, 280-81 Kang Kuru (Nepal Himalaya), 121 Kang Nachugo. See Nepal Himalaya, Peak

6734. Kang Nyung Than (Nepal Himalaya), 13 I Kang Tokal (Nepal Himalaya), 130 Kang Yisay (Ladakh), 306 Kangaroo, Big (Cascade Mountains, Wash-

ington), 189 Kangbachen (Sikkim Himalaya). 113, 252 Kangchengyao (Sikkim Himalaya), 112 KangchenJunga (Sikkim Himalaya), 113,

247-5 I Kangchenjunga Central (Sikkim Himalaya),

113 Kangchenjunga Himal (NepalSikkim),

113-15 Kangchenjunga South (Sikkim Himalaya),

1 I3 Kangchungtse (Nepal Himalaya), I16 Kangla (Sikktm Himalaya). 1 I5 Kangphu Kang (Lunala Range,

Bhutan/Tibet), I I2 Kangtega (Nepal Himalaya), 117, 274 Kangto Range (India), I I1 Kangtori (Kangto Range, India), I1 1 KanJeralwa (Nepal Himalaya), 13 I KanJtroba (Nepal Himalaya), I3 I KanJtroba Htmal (Nepal), 130-31 Kankarpunzum (Khnla Kangri Range.

Bhutan/Tibet), I1 1 Kano, Katsuhiko, 247-49 Kanshurm (Nepal Himalaya). 123 Kansi Dalpa (Nepal Himalava), 131 Kanti Himal (Nepal), 133 . Kan Chuli (Nepal Himalava). I35 Kapadia, Harish, 302-3 . Kaplan, Mount (Hughes Range, Antarc-

tica), 147 Karakoram Range (India). 306-7 Karakoram Range (India): Peak 7159, 307;

Peak 7428, 307 Karakoram Range (Pakistan), nrrs., 53-60,

61-69: 307-3 I Karakoram Range (Pakistan), Peak 5332,

331; Peak 5426, 331; Peak 5844, 331; Peak 6872, 329

Karkot (Nepal Himalaya), I34 Karma Changri (Tibet), 116 Kattse (Tibet), 120

INDEX

Karun Koh (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 326-29

Karyolung (Nepal Himalaya), 12 1 Kasai, Yoshiro, 324 Kashmir (India), 304-6 Kaskawulsh Glacier (Yukon Territory), 214 Kawai. Mineo, 297 Kayaking: Karakoram Range, arf.. 61-69;

Tierra del Fuego, 242-43 Kearney, Alan J., 189 Kedar Dome (Garhwal Himalaya), 140,

302 Kedamath (Garhwal Himalaya), 140 Kedamath Dome (Garhwal Himalaya),

296-97 Kekus, Nikola, 278 Kele, FrantiSek, 262 Kellas Peak (Sikkim Himalava). 1 I3 Kennedy, Michael, (ITI.. 102-S; 348-49 Kennedy, Mount (Saint Eltas Mountains,

Yukon Territory), 213 Khabur (Sikkim Himalaya), I I5 Khamiungar Himal (Nepal Himalava). 127 Khan,-Farid, 53-60 . Khan, Pervez, 61-69 Khangsar Kang (Nepal Himalaya), I27 Kharchakund (Garhwal Himalaya), 140,

296 Kharta Changri (Tibet), 119 Khartaphu (Tibet), 119 Khatang (Nepal Himalaya), 120. 277 Khatung Kang (Nepal Himalaya), 127 Khawaia, Hamid, 61-69 Khayang (Nepal Himalaya). I25 Khoiane (Nepal Himalava). 124 Kholi (Garhwal Himalaya). 136 Khullar, D.K. 1 260 Khumbutse (Nepal Himalaya), 120 Kichatna Mountams (Alaska), 179-81 Kichatna Spires. See Cathedral Spires. Kim, Byung-loon, 256 King, Peter, 49-5 1 King of Pain (Canyonlands Nattonal Park,

Utah), 202 Kirat Chuli (Sikkim Himalaya), 113 Kirgin, Jerko. 214 Kirkpatrick, Mount (Queen Alexandra

Range, Antarctica), 147 Kirti Stambh (Garhwal Himalaya), I41 Kit-u (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru), 232 Kirwan Escarpment (Antarctica), 148 Kishtwar Himalaya (Kashmir), 304-5 Kluane National Park (Yukon Territory),

213

395

Ko, Kwang-Soo, 282 Koa Rong IJ (Himachal Pradesh), 303 Koa Rong V (Himachal Pradesh), 304 Kohler Range (Antarctica), 148 Kokthang (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Kolev, Svetoslav, 258-60 Komarkova, Vera, art., 88-92 Komiya, Shohei, 246 Kommunizma (Pamirs, USSR), 339-40 Kondo, Kunihiko, 281 Kondus (Karakoram Range, Pakistan). 310 Kora Chonekang (SikkimHimalaya), 113 Kora Kang (Sikkim Himalaya), I13 Koteshwar (Garhwal Himalaya), 140 Kottas Mountains (Antarctica), 148 Kraul Mountains (Antarctica), 148 Krause, Wesley, 289 Krokisius, Mount (South Georgia), 243 Kruszyna, Robert, 364-65 Kuchela (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Kudo, Tetsuyasu. 302 “Kuitse-Maque Lu Qaqqardivaa” (Green-

land), 222 KuliS, Janusz, 279 Kumaon Himalaya. See Garhwal. Kumbhakama (Sikkim Himalaya), 115, 252 Kun (Jammu and Kashmir), 365 Kunaver. Ales. 279: obit.. 373-74 Kunaver, Dusica, 279 Kiinla Kangri (Ktinla Kangri Range, Tibet),

I11 Kihtla Kangri Range (Bhutan/Tibet), 111 Kunlun Mountains (China), 335 Kurtyka, Wojciech, 313-15 Kusum Kangunt (Nepal Himalaya), 117 Kutang Himal (Nepal), 125 Kuwahata, Nobuo, 282 Kwangde (Nepal Himalaya), 275-76 Kwanede Lho. See Tarikha. Kwangde Nup (Nepal Himalaya), 121 Kwanade Shar (Neual Himalava), 121 Kwangde South (Nepal Himahtya), 276 Kyajori (Nepal Himalaya), 120 Kyashar (Nepal Himalaya), 117 Kyunga Ri (Nepal Himalaya), 123

La Gorce Mountains (Antarctica), 147 Labyrinth Canyon (Utah), 200 Lachenal, Pointe (Mont Blanc Chain), 224 Ladakh (India), 305-6 Ladies Peak. See Gumba Chuli.

L

396

Lewis, Timothy Ifor Morgan, obit.. 374 Lhashama (Nepal Himalaya), 13 I Lhonak Peak (Sikkim Himalaya), 113 Lhotse (Nepal Himalaya), 117 Lhotse Shar (Nepal Himalaya), 117, 257-58 Lidanda. See Reni Peak. Likhu Chuli (Nepal Himalaya), 121 Likhu Chuli West (Nepal Himalaya), 121 Lahul (India), 303-4

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL, 1985

Lalaga Ri (Tibet), 123 Lalla We (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Lamb Dome (Sierra Nevada, California),

196 Lamjung Himal (Nepal Himalaya), 129 Lamo Angdan (Sikkim Himalaya), 247 Lampak (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Lampak II (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Lampard, David. 318 Landry, Werner R., 311-12 Lane, Bronco, 337 Lane, David, 298 Lang Dak (Nepal Himalaya), 121 Langchung Kang (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Langley, Steve, 53-60 Langmade, Daniel, 84-87 Langpo (Nepal Himalaya), 124 Langpo Peak (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Langsisa Ri (Nepal Himalaya), 123 Langtang Himal (Nepal/Tibet), 122, 123 Langtang Litung (Nepal Himalaya), 123,

277-78 Langtang Ri (Nepal Himalaya), 123 Larkya (Nepal Himalaya), 125 Lass (Nepal Himalaya), 135 Lashar (Sikkim Himalaya), 115 Lashar II (Sikkim Himalaya), 1 I5 Lassar (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Lassiter Mountains (Antarctica), 156 Latok Group (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),

320-22 Latu Dhura (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Lava Dome (Sierra Nevada. California).

195 Le Bon, Leo, 331 Leaning Tower (Yosemite, California), 197 Leaning Wall (Zion National Park, Utah),

200 Lee, Jonathan, 334 Lee, Yong-Ho, 256-57 Leek, Mount (Hauberg Mountains, Antarc-

tica), 156 Lembert Dome (Sierra Nevada, California),

196 Lenin (Pamirs, USSR), 340-41 Lesser, Rob, 61-69

INDEX

Lingtren (Nepal Himalaya), 120 Lipu Lekh (Nepal Himalaya), 135 Lirung Il. See Ghenge Lint. Ltster, Mount (Royal Society Range, Ant-

arctica), 145. 152, I54 Little Switzerland (Alaska Range), 179 Lizard Rock (Canyonlands National Park,

Utah). 202 Lobuje East (Nepal Himalaya), 120, 268,

269 Lobuje West (Nepal Himalaya), 120, 268 Loen-po Gang (Nepal Himalaya), 122 Loenw Gang West (Nepal Himalaya), 122 Logan, Mount (Saint Ehas Mounta&.

Yukon Territory), 213 Lohar Deo (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Long, Jeff, 345-47 Long, John. 356-57 Long Gables (Sentinel Range, Antarctica),

157 Longhurst, Mount (Transantarctic Moun-

tams. Antarctica), 147 Longs Peak (Front Range, Colorado), art.,

9-13; 208 Lbpez, Jer6nimo. 226 Lorenzo, Juan Antonio, 275-76 Loretan, Erhard, 279, 285-88 Low Profile Dome (Sierra Nevada, Califor-

nia), 195 Lowe, Alex, 205, 225 Lowe, Jeff, 206 Lowe, Mark. 23 I-32 Lucas, Ennc, 285 Lugula Himal (Nepal), 127 Luke% Cestmir, 296 Lukpilla Brakk (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 66 Lumpy Ridge (Rocky Mountain National

Park, Colorado), 209-10 Luna, Antonio, 255 Lunala Range (Bhutan/Tibet), 11 l-12 Lungdar Tsupaigo. See Nepal Himalaya,

Peak 6545. Luracatao (Argentina), 237 Luri Himal (Nepal Himalaya), 123 Luxsar (Cordillera Occidental, Bolivia),

234 Lwow, Aleksander, 320 Lynam, loss. 305-6

M

Machhapuchhre (Nepal Himalaya), 129 MacKenzie, Rob, 310

Madiya Peak. See Bhairav Takura. Magdalena, Marfa Carmen, 274 MagriRa I Gtiell, Jordi, 333 Mahalangur Himal (Nepal/Tibet), 116-20 Mahre, David, 93-100 Maiden (Boulder Canyon, Colorado), 209 Maiktoli (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Matpo (Argentina), 239 Majer, Janusz, 315 MaJumdar, P. K., 301-2 Makalu (Nepal Himalaya), art., 70-80;

116, 252-56 Makalu Il. See Kangchungtse. Malangphutang (Nepal Himalaya), I17 Malangutti Sar (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 324 “Malia Qaqqardivaa” (Greenland), 222 Mamostong (Karakoram Range, India).

306-7 Mana (Garhwal Himalaya), 138 Mana Northwest (Garhwal Himalaya), 138 Mana Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya),-1 39 Mana Parbat II (Garhwal Himalava). 139 Manapathi (Nepal Himalaya), l3b Manaslu (Nepal Himalaya). 125, 279-80 Manaslu Himal. See Mansiri Himal. Manaslu North (Nepal Himalaya), I25 Manda (Garhwal Himalaya), 140 Manda II (Garhwal Himalaya), 140 Manda Ill (Garhwal Himalaya), 140 Manda South. See Manda Il. Mandini Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 141 Mandir Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 138 Mangraon (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Manuou Peak (Coast Mountains, British

Columbia), 215 Manshail (Nepal Himalaya), 131 Mansiri Himal (Nepal), 125 “Many Devils Peak.” See Mamostong. “Marco Aurelio.” See Staunings Alps, Peak

2100. Mardi Phabrang (Kishtwar Himalaya,

Kashmir), 304-5 Markham, Mount (Queen Elizabeth Range,

Antarctica), 147 Marmier, Jean-Claude, 174 Marshall, Roger, 250 Martin. Reese, 179 Marts, Steve, 93-100 Masang Kang (Chomolhari Range,

Bhutan), 1 I2 Matheson, Mount (Menick Mountains,

Antarctica), I55 Matri (Garhwal Himalaya), 139

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1985

Matsuo, Takashi, 329-31 Matsuzawa, Tetsuro, 247-49 Maxwell, Mount (Yukon Territory), 214 Mayo (Patagonia), 242 Mazeaud, Pierre, 310 McClintock, Mount (Transantarctic Moun-

tains, Antarctica), 147 McDougall, Bob, 61-69 McGown, Robert, 190, 191, 206 McIntyre, Donald D., 340-41 McKibben, Mount (Antarctica), 156 McKinley, Mount (Alaska Range), 170-71,

172-74, 177; ascents of, 172 McNerthney, Pat, 186 Medlicott Dome (Sierra Nevada, Califor-

nia), 196 Melbourne, Mount (Antarctica), 145 Melunghi Kang (Kihrla Kangri Range,

Bhutanflibet), 11 I Melungtse (Tibet), 120 Melungtse II (Tibet), 120 Mendenhall, Ruth Dyar, 354 Menthosa (Himachal Pradesh), 304 Menzies, Mount (Prince Charles Moun-

tains, Antarctica), 148 Mera (Nepal Himalaya), 117 Merida, Sierra Nevada de (Venezuela), 225 Mermoz (Patagonia), 240, 242 Merra (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Merriam, George R., 377 Merrick Mountains (Antarctica). I55 Meru North (Garhwal Himalaya), 141 Meru South (Garhwal Himalaya), 140 Met-u West (Garhwal Himalaya), 141 Mesahchie Peak (Cascade Mountains,

Washington), 185-86 “Meskal” (Greenland), 222 Messner, Reinhold, 311 Mexico (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru), 228 Midi, Aiguille du (Mont Blanc Chain), 224 Milchberg. See Palta Thumba. Milk Dud Cliff (Boulder Canyon, Colo-

rado), 21 I Milne, Rob, 61-69 Minami. Koichi, 300 Minapin (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 326 Mineral Canyon (Utah), 200 Minto, Mount (Admiralty Mountains,

Antarctica), 145 Miranda (M&da, Sierra Nevada de,

Venezuela), 225 Mithen, David, 49-5 1 “Moena, Foresummit (Staunings Alps,

Greenland), 219

Molamenqing. See Phola Gangchen. Molenaar, Dee, arts., 8, 143-57 Monkeyfinger Wall (Zion National Park,

Utah), 200 Mont Blanc (France), 224 Mont Blanc Chain (France), 224 Montgomery, John, 370-71 Mooney, Terry, 70-80 Moores, Paul, 258 Moose’s Tooth (Alaska Range), ascents of,

172 Moran, Martin, 296-97 Moreau, Bernard, 3 15- 16 Morimoto. See Bhemdang Ri Morning, Mount (Antarctica), 147 Moro. Renato. 282. 297, 339. 340 Moro Rock (Sierra Nevada, California),

192-93 Moroni, Mount (Zion National Park, Utah),

200-202 Mountain sickness, arr., 162-65; bib/., 165 Mountaineering, Alpine-style; medical ef-

fects of, art., 158-61 Mountaineering, Solo: Ama Dablam, 273;

Bhrigupanth, 102; Garhwal, Peak 6702, 298: Gangapuma, 283; Huandoy Este, 225; Kangbachen, 252; Kangchenjunga, 250; Longs Peak, art., 9-13; McKinley, 172-74; Nepal, Peak 5551, 268; Ocshapalca, 225, 227

Mountaineering, Winter: Ama Dablam, 273; Annapuma. 288-89; Annapuma Dakshin, 290; Burgundy Spire, 184-85; Cascade Mountains, 187; Cho Oyu, 275; Dhaulagiri, 293; Everest, 264; Fair- weather, 183; Goode, 188-89; Grand Teton, 205; Himlung, 280: Johannesburg Mountain, 188; Kanp Guru, 281; Kum- bhakama, 252; Nepal, 275; Pumori, 267; Snoqualmie, 187; Tilitso, 291; Tu- pungatito, 236; Tupungato, 236; Utah, 197-200

Mountaineering Club of Alaska, 380 Mrigthuni (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Muhhg-Hofmann Mountains (Antarctica),

I48 Mukut (Nepal Himalaya), 130 Mukut Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 138 Mulkila V (Himachal Pradesh), 303 Mulkila VII (Himachal Pradesh), 303 Muller, Bernard, 25 I, 288-89 “Munchkin” (Alaska Range), 179 Murachi (Metida, Sierra Nevada de.

Venezuela), 225

398

INDEX

Murall6n (Patagonia), 242 Murphy. Dallas. 348 Murphy. Joseph E.. Jr.. 339 Mustagh Ata (Pamirs, China), 339 Mustagh Tower (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 316-18 Mustang Himal (Nepal). 131 Myapdi Matha (Nepal Himalaya), 130

N

Nagata. Torchiro. 3 10 Nagling (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Nal Peng (Namcha Barwa Range, China),

335 Nairz. Wolfgang, 291 Nakamura, Kaneo. 294 Nalakankar (Nepal Himalaya), 134 Nalakankar Himal (Nepal), 134 Namcha Barwa (Namcha Barwa Range,

China/India). I I I, 334-35 Namcha Barwa Range (China/India), I 11,

334-35 Nampd (Nepal Himalaya), 134 Nampa II (Nepal Himalaya), 135 Namshila (Bhutan). 246 Nanda. Sudlpta. 301 Nanda Deal (Garhwal Himalaya). 137 Nanda Deal East (Garhwal HImalaya), 137 Nanda Devi Group (Garhwal Himalaya),

136-37 Nanda Ghunti (Garhwal Himalaya). 137 Nanda Gond (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Nanda Khat (Garhwal Himalaya). 137 Nanda Kot (Garhwal Hlmalava). 136 Nanda Pal (Garhwal Himalaia). 136 Nandabhanar (Garhwal Himalava). 136 Nandakham (Garhwal Himalay;). 136 Nanga Parbat (Himalaya. Pakistan). 332-34 Napier, Bill, 8 Napier Mountains (Antarctica), 148 Nau Lekh (Nepal Himalaya). 117 Nava, Piero. 242 Neighbour Peak (South Georgia). 243 Nelson, James. 184-85 Nemesis (Canada). 218 Neny Matterhom (Antarctica), 150, 155 Nepal. its.. 70-80, 81-83, 84-87, 88-92;

i 16-35. 247-95: a/tin&s in. 116-35 Nepal: Peak 3. See Peak 6433. Peak 3

Southeast. See Yaupa Southeast. Peak 4. See Peak 6489. Peak 5. See Peak 638 1. Peak 6. See Peak 6757. Peak 29. See Ngadl Chuli. Peak 38. See Shartse. Peak

41. See Mera. Peak 43. See Kyashar. Peak 5551, 268: Peak 6055. 133; Peak 6059, 131; Peak6062, 122;Peak 6070, 122; Peak 6108, 134; Peak 6142, 130; Peak 6162. 134; Peak 6164, 134: Peak 6170, 70. 80: Peak 6188. 131: Peak 6198. 133; Peak 6236. 133: Peak 6248. 134: Peak 6254. 133: Peak 6261. 133. 134: Peak 6285. 131: Peak 6325, 131; Peak 6327, 133; Peak 6328, 130: Peak 6339, 134; Peak 6380. 133: Peak 6381, 116: Peak 6394. 133; Peak 6396, 134: Peak 6402, 131; Peak 6405. 133: Peak 6422, 134; Peak 6433, 116; Peak 6455. 133; Peak 6489, 117; Peak 6502, 121: Peak6504, 133:Peak6505. 127. 133; Peak 6506, 123. 134: Peak 6510. 123; Peak 651 I, 125: Peak 6516. 133: Peak 6517, 121; Peak 6518. 123. 126; Peak 6521, 124. 134; Peak 6522, 124; Peak 6523, 117. 121. 124; Peak 6524. 126; Peak 6526, 134; Peak 6528. 133; Peak 6530, 123: Peak6534. 125;Peak6535, 123; Peak 6542. 124: Peak 6544. 125; Peak6545. 121:Peak 6546. 126: Peak 6552, 135: Peak 6556, 126; Peak 6560, 135; Peak 6562, 135: Peak 6563. 123; Peak6565. 125. 129:Peak 6566, 126: Peak 6570. 116. 135: Peak 6581. 133; Peak 6586, 116. 123: Peak 6587. 129; Peak 6590, 120; Peak 659 I, 123; Peak 6592. 120: Peak 6594. 121: Peak 6596. 126: Peak 6599. 130. 131; Peak 6600, 123: Peak 6602, 126; Peak 6604, 126; Peak 6605, 121, 130; Peak 6608. 125, 126; Peak 661 I, 123; Peak 6614, 121; Peak 6615.7. 121; Peak 6620, 123. 126, 130: Peak 6622, 126; Peak 6623. 127; Peak6625. 126;Peak 6628. 133. 135; Peak 6630, 121; Peak 6633, 120; Peak 6639, 130: Peak 6641. 122; Peak 6646, 129; Peak 6646.4, 121: Peak 6647. 125: Peak 6648. 126; Peak 665 1. I 17; Peak 6653, 122:Peak6654. 126: Peak6655, 121; Peak 6657. 121: Peak 6660. 121; Peak 6662, 126; Peak 6667, 120; Peak 6677, 126; Peak6685, 117:Peak 6687, 126; Peak 6690. 130; Peak 6694, 126; Peak 6695. 122; Peak 6698, 130: Peak 6700, 126, 130; Peak 6706. 124: Peak 6707, 116;Peak6710. 125;Peak6713, 122:Peak6715,123:Peak6721, 129. 133; Peak 6726, 120; Peak 6729. 121; Peak 6730. 117: Peak 6734, 119. 121;

399

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL. 1985

Nepal: Peak-fcontinued) Peak 6736, 134; Peak 6742, 129; Peak 6744, 134; Peak 6748, 130; Peak 6752, 126; Peak 6757, 117, 122; Peak 6760, 127; Peak 6766, 116; Peak 6767, 126; Peak 6770, 119; Peak 6771, 121; Peak 6772, 124; Peak 6778, 126; Peak 6781, 121; Peak 6782, 130; Peak 6785, 125; Peak 6788, 124; Peak 6790, 120; Peak 6793, 119; Peak 6798, 122; Peak 6801, 119; Peak 6810, 133; Peak 6816, 120, 124; Peak 6821, 120; Peak 6835, 119; Peak 6838, 122; Peak 6839, 130; Peak 6840, 126; Peak 6852, 124, 126; Peak 6859, 133; Peak 6867, 125; Peak 6874, 126; Peak 6875, 119, 124; Peak 6889, 122, 127; Peak 6890, 129; Peak 6892, 126; Peak 6900, 120; Peak 6913, 119; Peak6921, 13O;Peak6922, 134;Peak 6931, 122, 129; Peak 6932, 126; Peak 6933, 126;Peak6945, 119, 124;Peak 6995, 125; Peak 7010. 129; Peak 7013, 122; Peak 7036, 125; Peak 7038, 126, Peak 7050, 122; Peak 7069, 129; Peak 7098, 126; Peak 7108, 129; Peak 7139, 126;Peak7183, 124;Peak7186,119; Peak 7199, 116; Peak 7249, 129; Peak 7316, 117, 129; Peak 7514, 125; Peak 7739, 127

Nepal Peak (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Neuner, Mount (Behrendt Mountains,

Antarctica), 155 Newhall, Charles Boardman, &it., 370 Newton, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains,

Yukon Territory), 214 Ngadi Chuli (Nepal Himalaya), 125 Ngalaphu (Garhwal Himalaya), 135 Ngojumba Kang (Nepal Himalaya), 119 Ngojumba Kang II (Nepal Himalaya), 119 Ngojumba Kang III (Nepal Himalaya), 119 Nielson, Lawrence, 268 Nilgiri Central (Nepal Himalaya), 129 Nilgiri North (Nepal Himalaya), 129 Nilgiri Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 138 Nilgiri South (Nepal Himalaya), 129, 291 Nilgiri Southeast (Nepal Himalaya), 129 Nilkantha (Garhwal Himalaya), 139 Ninashanca (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru),

229 19th Party Congress (Pamirs, USSR), 340 Nirekha (Nepal Himalaya), 120 Nital Thaur (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Noguchi, Akira, 329-31 Nomura, Heihachi, 303-4

Norbu Kang (Nepal Himalaya), 130 Northwest Mountain (Antarctica), 154 Nottaris, Romolo, 255 Novak, Jifi, 293 “9 Ottobre 1963” (Greenland), 222 Novocin Peak (Ha&erg Mountains,

Antarctica), 156 Numbur (Nepal Himalaya), 120 Nun (Jammu and Kashmir), 305 Nunn, Paul, 374 Nupla. See Kwangde South. Nuptse (Nepal Himalaya), 119 Nuptse Northwest (Nepal Himalaya), 265 NUN (Sherpa), 88-92 Nyanang Ri (Tibet), 122 Nyegyi Kangsang (Pachakshiri Range,

India), 11 I Nyka, Jozef, 239, 251, 275, 303, 320-22 Nystrom, Mount (Wind River Range, Wy-

oming), 205

0

Oakley, Jenny, 214 Obelisk Mountain (Antarctica), 154 Oberauer. Josef, 283 O’Brien, Laura, 102-8 Observation Mountain (Yukon Territory),

214 O’Connell, Kevin, &it., 368-69 Ocshapalca (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 225,

227’ Ohio Range (Antarctica), 148 Ohnishi, Tamotsu, 268 Olevsky, Ron, or?.. l-7; 200 Olympus Range (Antarctica), 145 Omae, Tsuneo, 329 Oman Mountains (Arabia), czrr., 49-5 I Omi Kangri (Sikkim Himalaya), 115 Omiya, Motumu, 334 Oregon, 190-91 Orolfn, Michal, 262 Ostense, Mount (Sentinel Range, Antarc-

tica), 157 Otaki, Kenshiro. 324 Outlier. See Janak.

P

Pabelldn (Argentina). 240 Pabil (NepalHimalaya), 124 Pachakshiri Range (India), 111 Pagmorpo (Nepal Himalaya), 123

400

INDEX

Paine Chico. See Paine Chico Este Paine Chico Este (Patagonia), 242 Paine Oriental. See Paine Chico Este. Pakistan, arts., 53-60, 61-69; 307-34 Palande, Anand, 295 “Palatinum.” See Staunings Alps, Peak

2600. Palta Thumba (Nepal Himalaya), 13 I Palung Ri (Tibet), 119 Pamari Himal (Nepal), 122 Pamirs (China), 339 Pamirs (USSR), 339-41 Pamlaka (Nepal Himalaya), 121 Panaiotapa (Nepal Himalaya), 121 Panaiotapa Shar. See Nepal Himalaya, Peak

6614. Panchchuli (Garhwal Himalava). 135 Panchchuli II (Garhwal Himalaya), I35 Panchchuli III (Garhwal Htmalava). 135

, I.

Panchchuli IV (Garhwal Himalava). 135 Panchchuli V (Garhwal Himalaya), 135 Pandim (Sikkim Himalava). 114 _ Pandra. See Sikkim Himalaya, Peak 6665. Pang Bhuchi (Nepal Himalaya), 135 Pang Buki. See Samdo. Pangbuk (Nepal Himalaya), 121 Pantera Nunatak (Antarctica), 155 Pantheon Range (Coast Mountains, British

Columbia), 2 15 Panwali Dwar (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Parchamo. See Parchemuche. Parchemuche (Nepal Himalaya), 121 Parent, Shaun, 277 Parihuac III (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru),

233 Parihuac IV (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru),

233 Parihuachana (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru),

233 Parihuachana II (Cordillera Vilcanota,

Peru). 233 Parioc Central (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru),

233 Parioc Este (Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru),

233 Parioc Oeste (Cordillera Vilcanota. Peru),

233 Park, Soon-Jo, 281 Parra, Luis A., 239-40 Pasang (Sherpa), 70-80 Pashuwo (Nepal Himalaya), 124 Patagonia (Argentina), arrs., 36-40, 42-48;

240-42 Patagonia (Chile), 242

Patchung Hamga Himal (Nepal), 133 Pathibhara (Sikkim Himalaya), 113 Pathibhara East (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Patrasi (Nepal Himalaya), 13 I Pauhunri (Sikkim Himalaya), 112 “Pavel” (Greenland), 222 Payachata Central (Cordillera Vilcanota,

Peru), 233 Payu (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 320 Pear (Lumpy Ridge, Colorado), 209-10 Pefavnik, MatJaf, 275 Pedreros (Patagonia), 241 Pelle, Michel, 273 Penitentes (Patagonia), 241 Pensacola Mountains (Antarctica), 148 Pera, Luciano, 240, 241 Peri Himal (Nepal), 126 Perlman, Eric S., 192 Peru, 225-33 Pethangtse (Nepal Himalaya), 116 Phabrang (Himachal Pradesh), 304 Phabrang South (Himachal Pradesh). 304 Pharaoh(Greenland), 222 ’ Phola Gangchen (Tibet). 122 Phole Sobithongje (Sikkim Himalaya), 115 Phole Sobithongje II (Sikkim Himalaya),

115 Phunphun Chuli (Nepal Himalaya), 13 I Phurba, Ang, 70-80 Phurbi Chyachu (Nepal Himalaya), 123 Phurephu Ri (Tibet). I23 Ptekamzyk. Andrzej, 181-82 Pielage, Joost, 300 Pig Pherago Nup. See Likhu Chuli West. Pig Pherago Shar. See Likhu Chuli. Pilling, William, 188-89, 214-15 Pmnacle Peak (Jammu and Kashmir), 305 Pimer Peak (South Georgia). 243 Pisang Peak (Nepal Himalaya), 127 Pisco (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 227 Playfair Mountains (Antarctica), 156 Plugge, Herman, 262 Poincenot (Patagonia), 240-41 Pointer Peak (Coast Mountains, British Co-

lumbia), 216 Polar Circus (Canada), 2 18 Politz, Andy, an.. 20-29 Pomme d’Or, La (Canada), 218 Pons, Jordi, 275 Porong Ri (Tibet), 122 Posado, Alberta, 300 Prince Albert Mountains (Antarctica), 145 Prince Charles Mountains (Antarctica), 148 Prince Olav Mountains (Antarctica), 147

Pronghom (Wind River Range, Wyoming), 205

Provo Canyon (Utah), 197 Puig, Emerita, 274 Pumori (Nepal Himalaya), 119, 265-67 Punjab Himalaya (India), 303-4, 305 Punjab Himalaya (Pakistan), 332-34 Punta Giulia (Royal Society Range, Antarc-

tica), 152, 154 Puppy Dome (Sierra Nevada, California),

196 Purapurani Thojo (Cordillera Real, Boli-

via), 233 Purbi Dunagiri (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Puri, Y. K., 304 Purubune Himal (Nepal Himalaya), 127 Puscanturpa None (dordillera Huayhuash,

Peru), 229-3 1 Putha Hiunchuli (Nepal Himalaya), 129,

294 Putz, Anton, 233-34 Pyramid (Nepal Himalaya). See Hongku

Chuli. Pyramid (Sikkim Himalaya). See

Pathibhara.

Q

Qomolangma. See Everest. Ouarrv Peak (Sierra Nevada, California), - 193, 196-97 Quebec, 218-19 Oueen Alexandra Range (Antarctica), 147 Queen Elizabeth Range (Antarctica), 147 Oueen Fabiola Mountains (Antarctica), 148 Queen Maud Mountains (Antarctica), 147,

155 Quintana, Joan, 225-26

R

Rajramba (Garhwal Himalaya), 135 Rakaposhi (Karakoram Range, Pakistan),

art., 53-60; 324 Ramdung (Nepal Himalaya), 277 Ramthang (S&m Himalaya), 114 Ramthang Chang (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Ramthang Karpo Ri (Nepal Himalaya), 122 Randall. Frances D., 170; abit., 367-68 Rasac (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru), 228,

229, 232 Rasac Central (Cordillera Huayhuash,

Peru), 229

Rataban (Garhwal Himalaya), 138 Rathong (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Ratna Chuli (Nepal Himalaya), 126 Re, Alberto, 339 Redgarden Wall (Eldorado Springs Canyon,

Colorado), 209 Redman, Earl, 183 Reina (Metida, Sierra Nevada de, Ven-

ezuela), 225 Renaud, Raymond, 265 Reni Peak (Nepal Himalaya), 125 Rescues, art.. 30-35 Research, Scientific: Mountain sickness,

art., 162-65 Rex, Mount (Antarctica), 244 Ribetti, France, 334 Richardson, Simon, 304-5 Richardson-Healy, Ralph, 190 Rimo Group (Karakoram Range, India),

307 Ripley, John G., 372-73 Rishi Kot (Garhwal Himalava), 137 Rishi Pahar (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 “Risum” (Nepal Himalaya), 122 Rita, Ang, 88-92 Roach, Gerard A., 183 Roberts Butte (Arctic Institute Range,

Antarctica), 145 Robinson, Peter, 367-68 Rot, Pit du (Mont Blanc Chain), 224 Rot Noir. See Khangsar Kang. Rocky Mountain National Park (Colorado),

206-13. Rocky Mountains (Canada), 217-18 Rocky Mountains (Colorado), 206-13 Rolofson, Mark, 210-13 Rolwaling Himal (NepaYTibet), 120-21 Rongbuk Glacier (Tibet), garbage on, 339 Ronti (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Rooster Comb (Alaska Range), 171, 174;

ascents of, 172 Rooster Finch (Cascade Mountains, Wash-

ington), 189 Rosario Norte (Cordillera Huayhuash,

Peru), 231 Roskelley, John F. C., 93-100 Ross Island (Antarctica), 145, 149-50, 155 “Ross0 di Ligroom, Pilastro” (Greenland),

222 Rotar, Ales, 234 Round Mountain (Antarctica), 154 Rowell, Barbara, 61-69 Rowell, Galen A., 61-69, 192 Rowley, Pete, 244

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL. I985

402

Roy, Bishnu Prasad, 304 Royal Society Range (Antarctica), 145,

151, 152, 154 “Ruby Peak’ (Sierra Nevada, California),

192 Rucker, Mount (Royal Society Range,

Antarctica), 152, 154 Runnette. Evelyn, obir., 371 Rurec (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 228 Russell, Mount (Sierra Nevada, California),

193 Rutkiewicz, Wanda, 239

S

Sabine, Mount (Admiralty Mountains, Antarctica), 145

Sagarmatha. See Everest. Sahsar (Nepal Himalaya), 127 Satfe (Garhwal Himalaya), 140 Saint Elias. Mount (Saint Elias Mountains,

Alaska), art., 20-29; 182-83 Saint Elias Mountains (Alaska), art.,

20-29; 182-83 Saint Elias Mountains (Yukon Territory),

213-14 Saint Exup&y (Patagonia), 241 Saint John’s Peak (Staunings Alps, Green-

land), 219 St. Onge, Richard, 84-87 Saipal (Nepal Himalaya), 134 Sakashita, Naoe, 273 Sakram (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Salasungo (Nepal Himalaya), 124 Salcantay (Cordillera Vilcabamba, Peru),

232 Salient Peak (Royal Society Range, Antarc-

tica), 152 Salisbury, Richard A., 260-61 Sahoro Group (Karakoram Range, India),

307 Samdo (Nepal Himalaya), 125 “San Paolo.” See Staunings Alps, Peak

2000. Sanders, Graham, 14-19 Sandhu, Balwant Singh, 306-7 Sangemar Mar (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 329-3 1 Sanglaphu (Sikkim Himalaya), 112 Sangthang (Garhwal Himalaya), 135 Sarapo (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru), 228 Sarapo Geste (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru),

231 Sarup Choti (Garhwal Himalaya), 140

INDEX

Satopanth (Garhwal Himalaya), 139, 296 Saula (Nepal Himalaya), 125 Savenc, Franci, 232. 324 Savoia Peak (Antarctica), 155 Sawatzky, Vem. 53-60 Schaffter, Stephane, 239 Scharl, Werner, 232-33 Schauer, Robert. 316 Schmatz, Gerhard, 335 Schmidbauer, Hubert, 312 Schutt. John. art., 143-57 Schwartz Peak (Antarctica), 244 Schweizerland (Greenland), 221-22 Scott, Douglas K., arf.. 70-80 Scott, Michael, 70-80 Scott Mountains (Antarctica), 148 Searle, Michael P., art., 49-51 Segu. J. P. Singh, 301 Seibert, Robert R.. 170-71 Selkirk Mountains (British Columbia), 217 Sen, Amulya, 301 Sen, Subhendu.246 Sentinel Peak (Sikkim Himalaya), 113 Sentinel Range (Antarctica), 148, 150, 151,

156-57 Senup (Sikkim Himalaya), 116 Serang Himal (Nepal),. 124 Serei Porkushy. See Karakoram Range

(Pakistan), Peak 6872. Seria Norte (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru),

232 Serku Dolma (Nepal Himalaya), 13 1 Shackleton Range (Antarctica), 148 Sharp, Michael, 182 Sharp” (Sikkim Himalaya), 115 Shartse (Nepal Himalaya), 119 Shartse II (Nepal Himalaya), 119, 256-57 Shelby, Bo, 61-69 Shey Shikhar (Nepal Himalaya), 131 Shimizu, Kiyoshi, 335 Shinn, Mount (Sentinel Range, Antarctica),

157 Shishapangma (Tibet), 122, 339 Shivling (Garhwal Himalaya), 140, 300 Shri Kailash (Garhwal Himalaya), 302 Shudu Tsenpa. See Sikkim Himalaya, Peak

7032. Shyamvaran (Garhwal Himalaya), 140 Sidley, Mount (Executive Committee

Range, Antarctica). 148 Sierra Nevada (California), 191-93, 196-97 Sigayret, Henri, 283-85 Sikkim Himalaya, 112-16, 246-52; aid-

rudes in, 112-16

403

Sikkim Himalaya: Peak 6187, 116; Peak 6233, 116; Peak 6245, 116; Peak 6356, 116; Peak6424, 116; Peak 6517, 112; Peak6532. 115:Peak 6537, 115;Peak 6544, 115; Peak 6550, 113; Peak 6553, 115;Peak6554, 113;Peak6574, 115; Peak6584, 115;Peak6626, 112;Peak 6630, 112; Peak 6640, 113; Peak 6650, 114;Peak6665, 115;Peak6675, 113; Peak 6698, 112; Peak 6718, 115; Peak 6730, 112; Peak 6754, 115; Peak 6805, 113; Peak 6824, 114; Peak 6852, 114; Peak6911, 112;Peak6915, 112;Peak 7032, 112; Peak 7044, 115; Peak 7385, 115;Peak 7451, 115;Peak7468, 115

Silverio. Walter, 226-27 Simnag Himal East (Nepal Himalaya), 125 Simvo (Sikkim Himalaya), 114, 246-47 Simvo East (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Simvo North (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Simvo Northeast (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Simvo West (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Sin Kor (Nepal Himalaya), 121 Singh, Kuldip, 247 Singh, Sital, 102-8 Sing” Chuli (Nepal Himalaya), 129 Simolchu (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Simolchu, Little (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Sita Chuchura (Nepal Himalaya), 130 Siula Grande (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru),

228 Skarja, Tone, 279 Ski mountaineering: Artesonraiu, 227; Ga-

sherbrum II, 31i; Lenin, 340; Longs Peak, 208; Maipo, 239: Mustagh Ata, 339; Ypsilon, 208

Skittle, Mount (South Georgia), 243 Skok, Janez, 324 Skoog, Gordon R., 186 Skoog, Lowell, 185-86 Skunk Canyon (Front Range, Colorado),

211 Slab (Colorado), 210 Slate, Gary, 193 Slipstream (Canada), 218 Smolich, John, 93-100 Smoot, Brian, 197-200, 200-202 Snagtooth, Big (Cascade Mountains, Wash-

ington), 189 Snoqualmie, Mount (Cascade Mountains,

Washington), 187 Sooth, K.S., 307 Sor Rondane Mountains (Antarctica), 148 Soribun (Nepal Himalaya), 127

Sots, Antoni, 257 South America, 225-43 South Georgia, 243-44 Spantik (Karakoram Range, Pakistan), 326 Speer, Gary, 189-90 Sphinx. See Pathibara East. Spire, The (Antarctica), 150, 155 Split Mountain (Sierra Nevada, California),

193 Sports Crag (Colorado), 210-l 1 Squaretop Mountain (Wind River Range,

Wyoming), 206 Sri Kailas (Garhwal Himalaya), 139 Srikanta (Garhwal Himalaya), 141 Sringi Himal. See Serang Himal. Stallbohm, Volker, 329 Standlev, Stacy. 84-87 Stanhardt (Patagonia), 241 Staunings Alps (Greenland), 219 Staunings Alps: Peak 2000, 219; Peak

2050, 219; Peak 2100, 219; Peak 2400. 219; Peak 2450, 219; Peak 2460, 219; Peak 2500, 219; Peak 2600, 219

Steele, Mount (Saint Elias Mountains, Yukon Territory), 213-14

Stefan, Wolfgang, 339-40 Stelfox, Dawson. 294 Sterbova, Dina, 88-92 Stoddard, John, 185 Streibel, Herbert, 296 Stuart, Mount (Cascade Mountains, Wash-

ington), 186 Stuart Range (Washington), 187 Stumo. Terrv (Mugs), 102-8 Sturtrt,’ Giinther, 279 Stiiwe, Kurt, 182-83 Sudarshan Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya),

140, 301, 302 Sudo, Tateshi, 332 Sugarloaf (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Sugawara, Nagahisa, 246 Suggs, Mount (Behrendt Mountains, Ant-

arctica), 244 Suitilla (Garhwal Himalaya), 135 Suli Top (Garhwal Himalaya), 135 Sumeri Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 141 Sumner, William, 186 Sunflower Tower (Canyonlands National

Park, Utah), 202 Sunrise Wall (Sierra Nevada, California),

191 Sustad, Stephen F., 70-80 Suzuki, Akira, 324 Svetvam (Garhwal Himalaya), 140

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1985

404

Swain. Todd, 347, 358-59 Swargarohini (Garhwal Himalaya), 141 Swargarohini 11 (Garhwal Himalaya), 141 Swargarohmi III (Garhwal Himalaya), 141 Sweeny Mountains [Antarctica), 156 Swelokhang (Nepal Himalaya), 125 Szielaska Icecap (South Georgia), 243

T

Taboche. See Tawoche. Tabsar (Nepal Himalaya), 124 Tackle, Jack Edward, 61-69 Takargo (Nepal Himalaya), 120 Takegawa, Shunjt, 291 Talung (Sikktm Himalaya), 114 Tamang, Saela, 70-80 “Tamara” (Greenland), 222 Tambat, CD., 295 Tanga (Nepal Himalaya), 123 Tangkongma (Sikkim Himalaya), 115 Tape. See Equipment: Tape. Tara (Garhwal Himalaya), 140 Tarditti, Alberto, 240 Tarikha (Nepal Himalaya), 121 Tarke Kang (Nepal Himalaya), 129, 283 Tashi Kang (Nepal Himalaya), 130 “Tasiillq” (Greenland), 22 1 Tateoka, Hiroshi, 324 Tawoche (Nepal Himalaya), 120, 269 Taylor. Martin, 368-69 Tedeschi, Yves, 177 Teng Kang Poche. See Nepal Himalaya,

Peak 6605 Tenga Ragi Tau. See Angole. Tenney, Steven, 218 Tent Peak. See Kirat Chuli. Teri Kang (Lunala Range, Bhutan/Tibet),

112 Terra Cotta (Antarctica), 154 Terror, Mount (Antarctica), 155 Terror, Mount (Cascade Mountains, Wash-

ington), 185 Teton, Grand (Teton Range, Wyoming),

205 Teton Range (Wyoming), 205 Thackray, John, 361-62 Thalay Sagar (Garhwal Himalaya), art.,

102-8; 140 Thamserku (Nepal Himalaya), 117, 274 Thape, Yogendra, 261, 262 Thaple Shikar (Sikkim Himalaya), 114 Tharkot (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Thelu (Garhwal Himalaya), 140

Thengmuche (Nepal Himalaya), 121 Theron Mountains (Antarctica), 148 Thiel Mountains (Antarctica), 147 Thivierge, Her&, 282 Thompson, Gray, 61-69 Thor, Mount (Baffin Island), 218 Thornton, Mount (Antarctica), 244 Throne (Alaska Range), 179 Thumbelina (Canyonlands National Park,

Utah), 202 “Tibertinde.” See Staunings Alps, Peak

2460. Tibet, err., 93-100: 11 l-12, 113, 115,

116-21, 122-23, 335-39; altitudes in. 111-12, 113, 115. 116-21, 122-23

Tibet: Peak 6482, 120; Peak 6536, 120; Peak 6563, 120; Peak 6617, 120; Peak 6657, 115;Peak6707, 120;Peak6789, 113;Peak6901, 119;Peak6916, 119; Peak 6930, 119; Peak 6966, 119; Peak 7011, 119; Peak 7013, 119; Peak 7018, 119;Peak7023,119;Peak7071,119; Peak 7308, 119

Tiedemann, Mount (Coast Mountains, British Columbia), 2 15

Tierra de1 Fuego, 242-43 Tilitso (Nepal Himalaya), 129, 291 “Tinetilaq” (Greenland), 222 Tiquimani (Cordillera Real, Bolivia),

234-35; alritude of, 235 Tirich Mir (Hindu Kush, Pakistan), 334 Tirsuli (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Tirsuli West (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Toadstool (Greenland), 222 Tobin, Carl, 217-18 Tollefson Nunatak (Antarctica), 156 “Tolmezzo.” See Churchill (Greenland). Tomahawk (Cascade Mountains. Washina-

ton), 189 Tomas, Juan, 297-98 Tong” (Nepal Himalaya), 130 Tooth (Cascade Mountains, Washington),

187 Topi Dhura (Garhwal Himalaya), 136 Toro. See Yerupaja Chico. Torre. Cerro (Patagonia), 240-41 Trango Towers (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 3 18-20 Transantarctic Mountains (Antarctica), 143,

147-48, 151 Traverses: Annapuma, 285-88; Alaska

Range, Peak 11300, 177; Broad Peak, 313-15; Cordillera Darwin, 243; Cor-

INDEX

405

Traverses:-(continued) dillera Huayhuash, 229; Endicott Moun- tains, 183-84; Everest, 258-60; Gasher- brum II, 311; Greenland, 223; Hidden Peak, 311; Kangchenjunga, 247-49

Trimble, Philip, 366 Trimikhi Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 140 Tripura Tumba (Nepal Himalaya) i 13 1 Trisul (Garhwal Himalava), 137 Trisul II (Garhwal Himalaya), 137 Troll, Middle (Alaska Range), 179 Trover, Randy, 102-8 Tsajrin. See Sikkim Himalaya, Peak 6754. Tsartse (Nepal Himalaya), 130 Tschirky, Frank, 285 Tsenda Kang (Lunala Range, Bhutan), 112 Tseringma. See Nepal Himalaya, Peak

6734. Tsherim Kang (Chomolhari Range,

Bhutan), 112, 244-46 Tsho Karpo Kang (Nepal Himalaya), 13 1 Tsisima (Sikkim Himalaya), 115 Tsogaka (Nepal Himalaya), 123 Tukche (Nepal Himalaya), 130 Tula Mountains (Antarctica), 148 Tumaklung. See Khabur. Tuolumne Meadows (Sierra Nevada, Cal-

ifornia), 192, 195-96 Tuperdo II (Kishtwar Himalaya, Kashmir),

305 Tupungatito (Chile), 236 Tupungato (Chile), 236 Tumbull, Ian M., 243-44 Tuthill, Andrew, 363 Tutse. See Nepal Himalaya, Peak 6757. Twaharpies Group (Wrangell Mountains,

Alaska), 181-82 Twin. See Gimmigela. Twin II. See Gimmigela II. Twins, The (Royal Society Range, Antarc-

tica), 152, 154 Tyree, Mount (Sentinel Range, Antarctica),

157

U

Ubra (Nepal Himalaya), 123 Udall, Mark, 290 Uemura, Naomi, 170 Uja Tirche (Garhwal Himalaya), 136,295 Ulens (Argentina), 239 Umbak Himal (Sikkim), 116 United States, 170-213 Urkinmang (Nepal Himalaya) 123

USSR, 339-41 Utah, art., l-7; 197-205

V

Vachon, Daniel, art., 14-19 “Valcellina” (Greenland), 221-22 Valdez (Alaska), 184 “Valresia.” See Greenland, Peak 2600. Van Horssen, Ronald D., 206 van Sprang, Gerard C., 228 Vanderbilt, Nicholas, obit.. 374-75 Varah Shikhar (Nepal Himalaya), 127, 289 Vasuki Parbat (Garhwal Himalaya), 139 Venezuela, 225 Vennum, Walter, 244 Verde, Cerro (Antarctica), 156 Vermeulen, Jim, 342-43 Vier (Pamirs, USSR), 339-40 Vincent, Michael, 312 Vinson Massif (Sentinel Range, Antarc-

tica), 148, 150, 151, 156, 157 “Virgilio.” See Staunings Alps, Peak 2450. Virgin Dome (Sierra Nevada, California),

196

W

Wagstaff, Brock, 378-79 Ward, Michael, 362-63 Washington, 184-90 Washington, Mount (Cascade Mountains,

Oregon), 190 Webster, Edward, art.. 9-13; 202-5,

209-10 Wedge (Kanjiroba Himal). See Phunphun

Chuli. Wedge (Sikkim Himalaya). See Ramthang

Chang. Weeping Wall (Canada), 218 Weigner, Vladimir, 223 West, John B., 264-65 Whale’s Back (Sierra Nevada, California),

196 Wharton, Robert A., Jr., art., 143-57 Wharton, Mount (Transantarctic Moun-

tains, Antarctica), 147 White, Gene F., 360 White Island (Antarctica), 155 White Needle (Jammu and Kashmir), 305 White Peak. See Bandarpunch West. White Wave Peak. See Anidesha Chuli. Whitemantle Range (Coast Mountains,

British Columbia), 216

THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL. 1985

406

INDEX

Whitmore Mountains (Antarctica), 148 Whitney Portal Buttress (Sierra Nevada,

California), I9 I Whittaker, Louis, 93-100 Whittaker, Peter, 93-100 Whizz Dome, North (Sierra Nevada, Cal-

ifornia), 195 Wickwire, James, an.. 93-100 Wielicki, Krzvsztof. 279-80. 315 Wilford, Mark, 206 Will Hays Mountains (Antarctica), 147 Williams, Monte (Antarctica), 156 Wilson, Greg, 93-100 Wind River Peak (Wind River Range, Wy-

oming), 206 Wind River Range (Wyoming), 205-6 Winstone, Mount (Coast Mountains, British

Columbia), 214-15 Wisconsin Range (Antarctica), 148 Wohlthat Mountains (Antarctica), 148 Wood, Sharon, 238, 239 Woolums, Scott, 320 Worcester Range (Antarctica), 15 1, 155 Womer, Stefan, 312, 316 Wrangell Mountains (Alaska), 18 l-82 Wrangell Mountains: Peak 7205, 182; Peak

9600, 182; Peak 11720, 182 Wurzer, Rudolf, 322 Wyoming, 205-6

X

Xixabangma. See Shishapangma.

Y

Yager, Michael, art., 84-87 Yagihara, Kuniaki, 289 Yahuarraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), 228 Yakawa Kang (Nepal Himalaya), 127 Yalung Kang (Sikkim Himalaya), 113, 251 Yamato Mountains. See Queen Fabiola

Mountains.

Yangra. See Ganesh. Yansa Tsenji (Nepal Himalaya), 123 Yasa Thak (Nepal Himalaya), 121 Yaupa (Nepal Himalaya), 116 Yaupa Southeast (Nepal Himalaya), 70, 80 Yet-upajl (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru).

228, 229 Yetupaja Chico (Cordillera Huayhuash,

Peru), 229 YerupajB Sur (Cordillera Huayhaush, Peru),

228 Yogeshwar (Garhwal Himalaya), 139 Yokell, Michael D., 183-84 Yong, Tae-Shin, 274 Yosemite (Sierra Nevada, California),

193-95. 197 Young, Brinton, 374-75 Young, Steven, 213-14 Ypsilon, Mount (Rocky Mountains, Colo-

rado), 208 Yuasa, Michio, 277 Yukon Territory, 213-14 Yukshin Gardan Sar (Karakoram Range,

Pakistan), 322-24 Yulhekhang (Sikkim Himalaya), 112

23 (Zanskar Range, Ladakh), 306 28 (Zanskar Range, Ladakh), 305-6 “Zancan” (Greenland), 222 Zanskar Range (Ladakh), 305-6 Zanskar Range: Peak 6000. 306 Zapata. See Colque CNZ VI. Zawada, Andrzej, 275 Zboinski, Andrzej, 303 Zebrowski, Hans, 307-9 Zhou, Zheng, 334-35 Zion National Park (Utah), art., 1-7;

200-202 Zongophu Kang (Lunala Range,

Bhutan/Tibet), 112

407