INDEX

Note: The letter ‘n’ following the locators refers to endnote numbers and the letter ‘f’refers to figures.

AA. T. Stewart’s store, 114, 126Academy of Motion Picture Arts and

Sciences, Technicians Branch, 143advertising, 80–84

color in, 82–84, 161, 181color television and, 161of dyes, 4f, 46–49examples of, 6f, 8f, 9f, 24f, 200findustrial design, 192in Life, 180visual merchandising, 10, 67, 153See also marketing

African art and culture, 178alizarin, 40, 42–43, 45

See also madder redAllen, Grant, 117Allen, W. A., 211, 213Alves, Mary, 175America

color management in, 82, 192“color revolution” in, 2–3,

55–70, 193–201consumer culture influence, 13,

164n25, 193food regulatory practice, 26–27influence on British color

practice, 192, 205

survey of American culture inLife, 171, 175–77

Wilson’s tour of Canada, 209See also transatlantic influences

American color system, see MunsellColor System

American Color Trends, 216American Home, The, on lighting, 154American School of Painting, 171–72America’s Arts and Skills (Time

magazine), 176–77Anglo-American turf dispute, see

transatlantic influencesaniline blue, 100–101, 106aniline dyes (coal tar dyes)

branding dye products, 105–7food coloring, 25–26manufacture of since 1860s, 37new colors and color names,

97, 98–101See also dyestuffs industry

aniline purple (violine, mauveine,Perkin’s mauve, aniline violet,Tyrian Purple), 1, 38,47, 98–102

See also purpleaniline red, 100animated films, see cartoons

© The Author(s) 2017R.L. Blaszczyk, U. Spiekermann (eds.), Bright Modernity, Worldsof Consumption, DOI 10.1007/978-3-319-50745-3

271

architects, in color management,191, 213–14

See also interior decoration; workplacesArchrome (paint colors for school

buildings), 214Army and Navy Co-Operative

Society, 202Aro, Leena, 235art criticism, European, 79–80art education, 56–57

See also color pedagogy; schoolsartificial dyes, see synthetic dyesartists

American School of Painting, 171–72boys in art, 85frecording World War II in

color, 172–73Rood’s influence on

Impressionism, 127n1art reproductions, see color art

reproductionsAshford, F. C., 217Australia, functional color in, 209Austrian National Fashion Council, 244Axios (market research), 264Azuline, see aniline blueAzurine, see aniline blue

BBadische Anilin- und Sodafabrik

(BASF), 40,45–46, 47, 48

Bahrke, Wilhelm, 229Bailey, Henry Turner, 55–56Ball, J. Arthur, 136, 143

three-color camera, 137–39, 138fBall, Katherine M., 67Bally (shoe manufacturer), 236BASF (Badische Anilin- und

Sodafabrik), 40,45–46, 47, 48

Basten, Fred E., 142Battersby, Betty K., 211Baum, L. Frank, 67Baxter, John, 144Bayer, see Friedr. Bayer & Co.beauty, 11, 82

See also femininity; makeupBecky Sharp (feature film),

141, 143, 148n64behavioral psychology, 10, 23, 127n2

See also advertising; color psychologyBenton, Thomas Hart, 171Berry, Sarah, 151–52Billings, John Shaw, 168Birren, Faber, 82–83, 93n26, 161, 199,

201, 219–20American accounts, 216color forum, 217–18Economic Colour Trends, 215–17functional color, 208, 211research driven methods, 192, 217–18Wilson’s meeting with, 209

Birth of a Nation, The (Griffith1915), 134

Blanc, Charles, 79–80Blaszczyk, Regina Lee, 2, 161, 230–31,

247n30, 266n2Blondell, Joan, 152Blue

aniline blue, 100–101, 106blue–pink color-coding, 83–84“Celestine”/Céleste dye, 101

blue vitriol, in canned vegetables,25–26, 34n88

Boswell, Peyton Jr., 171–72botanical color charts, 125, 205, 212Bourke-White, Margaret, 168Boys, see children and teenagersBradley, Milton

The Checkered Game of Life, 55color course, 55–70, 69fColor in the School-Room (Bradley),

55–56“color question,” 114–15kindergartens and, 57, 70n4manuals on color pedagogy, 58, 61manufacturing interests of, 56, 124

Bradley’s Spectrum Standard papers, 60f,62, 64, 65, 71n33, 125–26

color feeling and, 68consumerism and, 56in Maxwell disks, 71n31

branding, see marketingBrave New World (Huxley), 22Brewster, David, 60

272 INDEX

bright colors, 80, 82Britain

American color management influenceon, 192, 205

color practice in, 191–221cooperation with Nordic

countries, 234dyestuffs industry, 37–38, 45–46shoe and leather industry, 231–32standards in paint colors, 214welfare state, 211, 215

British Colour Council, 20, 211, 213on article in Design magazine, 219color cards and trend reports, 201–5Colour and Lighting in Factories and

Offices, 209–10course on color and lighting, 210criticisms of, 212functional color and, 205, 208, 209membership, 202merger with Council of Industrial

Design, 220Pekonen’s visit to, 230production of large color

dictionaries, 219–20style forecasts, 206f, 207f, 212Wilson as general manager, 203See also Wilson, Robert F.

British Colour Council Dictionary ofColours for Interior Decoration, 211

British Colour Council Dictionary ofColour Standards, 204, 211

British Standard 2660: 1955 Colours forBuilding and Decorative Paints,214–15, 217–18

Brooke, Simpson and Spiller, 102, 103,106, 111n60

Building Research Station(Britain), 210–11,213, 214, 217–18

Burendahl, Åke, 234Bury’s logwood extract, 105

CCadbury chocolate wrappers, 191Cameras

photographic reporting, 172–73, 177

for Technicolor, 137–39,138f, 139f, 141

Canada, 209Capitalism, see consumer culture;

manufacturingCaro, Heinrich, 40cartoons, color technology in,

140–41, 147n43See also Disney, Walt; Technicolor

“Celestine”/Céleste dye, 101Central Leather Research Institute

(CLRI, India), 238Century Dictionary, 118, 126Century of Progress International

Exhibition, Chicago, 199, 200fcerise, 104cerulean blue, 19–20character, see personality expressionChatelier, Sabine Le, 252Checkered Game of Life, The (board

game), 55chemical industry, 1, 10, 25–26,

37, 46, 48–49associated members of Modeurop, 238See also colorists; dyestuffs industry

Cheskin, Louis, 83Chevreul, Michel-Eugène, 12–13,

80, 124children and teenagers

authentic choices, 88, 90–91clothing for, 80, 84–85, 87, 90, 95n73color preferences of boys, 85f, 87–88gender history of the color pink, 77,

84–85, 87gender nonconformity, 87–88, 94n58See also schools

China, influence on Luce, 174Chiu, Sandy, 87Christian Science Monitor, 7chromatic education, see color pedagogychromatics, see color scienceChromatics, or An Essay on the Analogy

and Harmony of Colors (1817), 119Cierach, Lindka, 258Cinderella Ate My Daughter

(Orenstein), 89Cinema, see motion picturescities, distinctive color features in, 12Clapp, Jane, 180–81

INDEX 273

Clothing, see fashion and clothingcoal tar dyes, see aniline dyescochineal, 40, 44

See also natural dyestuffscolor

in Century Dictionary, 118, 126definition of, 118effect on mood and

temperament, 82–83form versus, 79–80history of in commerce, 1–28negative impact of, 22–27philosophical classification of, 125three-primary system, 61Western ideas of, 11–13See also gender history of color; names

of specific colorstransatlantic influences

color art reproductions, in Lifemagazine,167–81

Color Association of the United States,see Textile Color Card Association ofthe United States

color blindness, tests for, 124color cards/shade cards

British Colour Council, 203–4Interstoff (Frankfurt am

Main), 253–54Modeurop, 237–38, 238f, 240–45,

247n23, 249n57Première Vision, 255–66Rorke’s seasonal color forecast, 194,

195f, 196–98fspecial applications, 205See also color standards

color choice, see color consultancies;color management

color cinematography, see motionpictures

“color conditioning,” 159, 161color consultancies, 82–83, 212–13

Economic Colour TrendsLtd., 215–18

industrial, 20, 161, 208Technicolor, 142–43See also Birren, Faber

color coordination, 192, 211–15color education, see color pedagogycolor forecasts, see forecasts

color harmonyBradley and, 67–68, 69fclothing and complexion, 80–81movie productions, 142–43

Color in the School-Room (Bradley),55–56

colorists (dye chemists), 97, 103f, 108n8color nomenclature of, 98–106experiments with azuline, 101names for purple, 100, 102

color management/colorpractices, 7–11, 71n29

in Britain, 191–221by creative teams, 212–13defined, 192experts in, 12, 61–62See also British Colour Council; color

cards/shade cards; colorpedagogy; color standards;marketing; Textile Color CardAssociation of the United States

color nomenclature, 124–26, 193discrimination between shades, 102–4dye products, 98–105, 105–7, 118historical color associations, 102for naturalists, 125, 205, 212natural referents, 101, 117–18Ridgway and, 58–59, 125, 205sociocultural aspects of, 82unstable equivalences, 102See also Bradley, Milton; color cards;

color standards; Maxwell disk;Munsell Color System

color pedagogy, 56–61, 65–68See also Bradley, Milton; color

management; color standardscolor practice, see color managementcolor prediction, see color management;

forecastscolor printing, see printing technologycolor psychology, 82–83, 211

motivational research, 217–18See also behavioral psychology; color

science; factory interiorscolor reproductions of art, see color art

reproductionscolor restraint, 143, 148n64“color revolution,” 2, 193–201, 205

educational revolution and, 55–70

274 INDEX

in marketing and fashion, 78occupations in, 194science vs. commerce, 199, 201, 209See also color psychology; consumer

cultureColor Revolution, The (Blaszczyk), 2,

230–31, 266n2color science (chromatics)

color standards and humanperception, 61–62, 67

defined, 113distinguishing objective and subjective

color, 114–15, 118–21, 122f,124, 125–26

electromagnetic radiation and,119, 120f

use of “introspection,” 121, 128n32See also color psychology; Maxwell disk

color selection, see color managementcolor sensations, see color sciencecolor standards, 55, 57–59, 214

British Colour Council Dictionary ofColours for InteriorDecoration, 211

British Colour Council Dictionary ofColour Standards, 204

in business, 62, 64, 119in classrooms, 64–65experimentation and scientific

effort, 61–62, 124–25for naturalists, 125, 205, 212primary colors, 59–61The Wilson Colour Chart, 205, 212See also Bradley’s Spectrum Standard

papers; British Standard 2660;color nomenclature

color systems, see color nomenclature;color standards

color television, advertising and, 161color theory, see color sciencecolor trends, see color cards; Economic

Colour Trends Ltd.; forecasts;Première Vision

“color triangle,” 122–23, 123fcolor usage, social class and, 7, 10–11color vision, see color sciencecolor wheels

Milton Bradley color wheel, 62,63f, 64f

Rood’s color wheel, 123–24See also Maxwell disk

Colour and Light at Work (Wilson), 212Colour and Lighting in Factories and

Offices (Wilson), 209–10, 212Colour in Industry Today: A Practical

Book on the Functional Use of Color(Wilson), 217

Colour Research: A Definition(Birren), 216

Colour Sense: Its Origins andDevelopment, The (Allen), 117

commercial color, 114–15See also color standards; consumer

culture; marketingcomparative studies, see transatlantic

influencesComstock, Daniel, 134–36, 143

dissolved partnership withKalmus, 137, 146n24

Condé Nast, see House and Garden ColorProgram

consumer cultureAmerica, 13, 150, 164n25, 192, 193color and, 3–7, 22–27, 58–59, 126color descriptions in, 117–18color education and, 56, 67–70commercial color, 114–15move from producer-based

society, 150“pulling power” of color, 82–83See also advertising; children and

teenagers; fashion and clothing;gender history of color; interiordecoration

consumer protection laws, 23, 25–27consumption, see consumer culturecopper, used to color vegetables,

25–26, 34n88Cornell, Joseph, 179cosmetics, see makeupcotton, mass market production of, 40Cottrell, William, 147n43Council of Industrial Design, 212, 217

Advisory Committee on Colour andIndustrial Design, 191–92,219, 220

Britain Can Make It exhibition, 212course on color and lighting, 210

INDEX 275

Council of Industrial Design (cont.)merger with British Colour

Council, 220Crace-Calvert, Frederick, 104Crawford, Joan, 152Crookes, William, 102Cross, Gary, 3, 5culture, see art education; color art

reproductions; consumer cultureCummings, John, 176curriculum, see color pedagogy;

educational revolution; schoolsCurry, John Steuart, 168Czechoslovakia, membership of

Modeurop, 239, 243

DDackerman, Susan, 179–80Dahl, Arlene, 155Danger, Eric P., 82, 93n26, 215–16, 219Danish Shoe Fashion Council, 231,

243, 245Darwin, Robin, 220–21de Grazia, Victoria, 84, 192de Laire, Georges Ernest

Camille, 100–101de la Renta, Oscar, 19–20Denmark, see Danish Shoe Fashion

CouncilDepartment of Industrial and Scientific

Research (Britain), 213Desert Song, The (1929), 139design, 191

color vs. form, 79–80training initiatives in the United

States, 57See also color consultancies;

industrial designDesign magazine, 214, 217–18

on need for color training, 219Devil Wears Prada, The (film), 19–20d’Harnoncourt, René, 174Dichter, Ernest, 218Disney, Roy, 140Disney, Walt, 144, 147n47

technologicalinnovation by, 139, 140–41

See also Technicolordomestic interiors, see interior decorationDonnelley, R. R., 168–69, 180–81Dormeuil, Ashley, 253Drapers’ Organiser, 201Dupasquier, Bernard, 257DuPont Company, 199, 208

Color Conditioning, 199inspired by Nordic Fashion Council

(NMR), 235Safety Color Code for Industry,

199, 208“Three Dimensional Seeing,”

208, 211Dutton, Norbert, 191–92, 220dye names, see color nomenclaturedyestuffs industry, 38–49

cost of dyes, 41–42, 42fdomestic market, 105–7dye processor-traders, 39dyers, 46–49, 201high-end market segment, 38–39innovation of process or

product, 44–46instructions on making, 100low-cost market segment, 40–43marketing, 4f, 38, 46–49, 106market share, 37, 40–43, 41f,

43f, 45–46retail and distribution, 39, 44, 46–49Switzerland, 39transformation of dye markets, 37,

38–43, 45–46See also colorists; German dyestuffs

industry; natural dyestuffs;synthetic dyes; textile industry

dyewood extractors, 39–40, 44, 46–47,49, 105

EE. Coez (French supplier), 106Ebury, Lord, 202, 203Economic Colour Trends Ltd., 215–18educational revolution, “color

revolution” and, 55–70efficiency movement, see scientific

management

276 INDEX

Eisenhower, Mamie, 84–87, 86f, 94n53Ekblom, Jan, 244, 248n53, 248n57electric lighting, see factory interiors;

residential electric lightingelectromagnetic radiation, and

color, 119, 120fElisofon, Eliot, 176, 178, 186n76Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine, 97,

98, 100, 101, 102–3dye recipes and advertisements

in, 105–7environmental hazards in

manufacturing, 22–23, 25Estée Lauder, 259Europe

collaboration outside, 239–40“color revolution” and, 2–3, 214distinctive visual features in cities, 12shoe and leather industry, 227–46See also Britain; names of specific

countries; transatlantic influencesEuropean art

European art criticism, 79–80Life magazine series on, 170–71

European color organization, seeModeurop

European Free Trade Association(EFTA), 234

Ewen, Stuart, 3Expofil (trade Show), 260

FFactor, Frank (Max Factor, Jr.), 142Factor, Max, 141–42, 147n56, 151factory interiors

British Colour Council and, 201–4color in, 193–94, 199, 205,

208–13, 217electric lighting in, 205, 208–11“reverse camouflage” for

machinery, 194, 199, 208transatlantic influences, 213–14See also manufacturing

Fairchild News Service, 267n28Fantasia (1940), 144fashion and clothing, 194, 218, 255–56

fashionable color terms,101–5, 116–17

fashion follies, 22increased color in, 5,

9f, 58–59, 80,82, 97–99

See also beauty; forecasts; genderhistory of color; men’s clothes;Modeurop; pink; shoe and leatherindustry; trade fairs

fashion periodicals, see magazinesfemininity

fashion connected to, 233female responsibility

for artificial lighting, 150–52,155, 159, 161–62,163n4, 163n5

feminization of color inEuropean art criticism, 79–80

feminization of consumerculture, 83–84

gender historyof the color pink,77, 84–87, 91

women’s cosmetic self-maintenance, 151

See also beautyFennemore, T. A., 208–9Field, George, 119Finnish Shoe Council, 231, 235Flowers and Trees (1932),

140–41, 147n43Food and Drug

Administration (FDA),26, 27

food coloring, 2, 24f, 25–27food regulatory practice, 25–27Forde, Roseann, 265, 269n60forecasts, 20, 227, 230,

235–36, 247n26confidentiality obligations,

234, 247n26fashion intermediaries, 249n59life cycle of a color trend, 266n2male fashion, 207f, 240, 248n41Rorke’s seasonal

color forecast, 194,195f, 196–98f

INDEX 277

forecasts (cont.)See also British Colour Council;

color cards/shade cards;Modeurop; Nordic FashionCouncil; Première Vision

foreign markets, see international trendsFortune (magazine)

“Color in Industry” article, 2on Dr. Kalmus, 137on Technicolor, 133–34, 136–37,

140, 143France

art criticism, 79color prediction, 204dyestuffs industry, 37–38, 98–99textile production industry, 253See also Paris, France

Friedman, Sidney, 179Friedr. Bayer & Co., 39, 45Fröbel (Froebel), Friedrich, 57–58fuchsine (magenta), 100functional color, 205–15

Birren on, 208, 211, 217See also factory interiors

Functional Color (Birren), 199

GG. F. Perkin and Sons, 40, 102, 106

See also Perkin, William HenryGance, Abel, 134gardeners, color cards for, 125, 205, 212Garrett, Wilfred, 209Garrity, William E., 140Geigy and Co., 104, 110n55gender history of color, 77–91, 94n58,

229, 245color nomenclature, 97–98gendered marketing of electric

lighting, 153, 156f, 162industry organizations, 245market research and, 218in Modeurop, 245in Nordic Fashion Council, 231, 233superficiality of color, 89–91See also femininity; men’s clothes; pink

Gender Identity Disorder/GenderDysphoria, 87–88, 94n56, 95n62

General Electric (G.E.), 153–54,166n54, 210

educational marketing campaigns forlighting installations, 154, 155,157f, 158f

incandescent light bulbs, 149, 159,160f, 161, 162, 165n47

General Motors, 193, 199George, Prince, his pink dungarees, 77German dyestuffs industry, 12, 23,

37–51companies involved in, 39, 45–49food regulatory practice, 25–27German patent law of 1877, 45innovation in, 44–46market share, 37, 40–43, 41f, 42f

German Shoe Fashion Council(Deutsche Schuinstitut, orDSI), 244, 249n55

Giertz-Mårtenson, Ingrid, 227–46, 229,240

Girard, Ernest, 100–101girls, see children and teenagersGloag, H. L. “Bill,” 192, 214–15,

217–18, 219, 220globalization, see international trendsGodey’s Lady’s Book and Magazine, 98,

99, 100, 101, 102–3dye recipes in, 105–6

Gone With the Wind (1939), 144Graebe, Carl, 40graphic design, see designGreat Britain, see Britaingreen, shade names from nature, 117–18Gresch, Rose Marie, 237Griffith, D. W., 134Gulf Between, The (1917), 135–36, 142Gurian, Michael, 88–89, 95n71

HHaas, Ernst, 177Haines, Richard, 138Handbuch der physiologischen Optik

(Handbook of Physiological Optics)(1867), 119

Harper’s Bazaar, fashion colorsdescribed by, 116–17

278 INDEX

Harris, Neil, 5health hazards of dyes, 22–23,

24f, 25–27Helmholtz, Hermann von, 59–60, 119,

120f, 125ideas used in Maxwell disk, 121

Hermès, 263Hersey, John, 173Hochswender, Woody, 258–59Hoechst, 39, 45–46Hofmann, August Wilhelm, 101Hofmann, Hans, 179Hollywood, see motion picturesHomemaking, see interior decoration;

residential electric lightingHong Kong, functional color in, 210Hopkinson, Ralph G., 210–11horticulturalists, color cards for, 125,

205, 212House and Garden Color Program,

199, 215Household Guide, on Judson’s Dyes, 107Household Words, 106Houses, see interior decoration;

residential electric lightinghuman color vision, see color scienceHume, A., 127n8

Harper’s Bazaar, fashion colorsdescribed by, 115–16

Huxley, Aldous, 23Hyde, Nina, 258

IIdentity

authentic self, 88–91social class and color, 7, 10–11See also femininity; personality

expressionindanthrene dyes, 43India

associated member ofModeurop, 237–39

indigo planters in, 48Indiana, Robert, 178–79indigo (dye), 40, 44, 48

See also natural dyestuffsindigotine, 42–43, 48

Indigo (trade show), 260industrial design, 191–92, 208, 212

product design, 10, 20See also factory interiors;

manufacturingindustrial drawing, 57, 59industry color consultants, see color

consultanciesinks, 169

See also dyestuffs industryinterior decoration, 152–53

British Colour Council Dictionary ofColours for InteriorDecoration, 211

color in, 8f, 10–11, 152, 213–14, 217feminine beauty and, 150, 163n4,

163n5, 165n48House and Garden Color

Program, 199, 215See also factory interiors; residential

electric lightingInternational Colour Research

(Birren), 215International Council of Tanners

(ICT), 239international trends, 11–12

Nordic countries and, 231–32,232–34, 247n30

Première Vision and, 252, 266International Wool Secretariat

(IWS), 235, 247n28Interstoff (Frankfurt-based textile

fair), 251–52, 253–54, 255–56,267n11

Irresistible Empire (de Grazia), 192Isabel/Isabella yellow, 113–14, 116–17,

126, 127n8, 128n10Italian Renaissance art controversy, 79Italy

as fashion center, 236, 248n57inclusion in Première Vision, 256

Iwerks, Ub, 140

JJ. R. Geigy (company), 39, 104–5Jackson, Wilfred, 140Jaffa, Henri, 143

INDEX 279

James, William, 121, 127n2, 128n32Jazz Singer, The (1927), 139Jeffries, Benjamin Joy, 124John Wilkinson and Co, see Wilkinson

and Co.Jones, Robert Edmond, 148n64Judson’s Dyes, 106–7

KKalmus, Comstock & Wescott,

135, 146n24See also Technicolor

Kalmus, Herbert, 134–37,138–43, 145n12

dissolved partnership withComstock, 137, 146n24

live-action Technicolor films, 141on Technicolor as progressive

development, 143–44Kalmus, Natalie, 142–43, 147n57,

147n60, 148n64Kane, Emily W., 94n58Kent, Corita, 180Kessel, Dmitri, 174Ketcham, Howard, 83, 161Keyte, Michael, 214–15Kilodavis, Cheryl, 87–88Kim, Elia, 264kindergarten movement, 57–59, 70n4

See also color pedagogyKinemacolor, 134, 145n11Kivikäs, Lauri, 231Klein, Calvin, 258–59Knosp, of Stuttgard, 104Kohler, Sylvester, 124Königliche Gewerbe-Akademie (Royal

College for Vocational Studies),Berlin, 40

LLa Cucaracha (1934), 141, 148n64Ladd-Franklin, Christine, 114–15, 121,

124–26, 127n2Lady’s Book, see Godey’s Lady’s Book and

Magazinelanguage of color, see color nomenclature

leather, see shoe andleather industry

Le Chatelier, Sabine, 252, 268n45world in color, 261–65

Le Cuir à Paris (trade show), 260Lefranc, Sylvie, 242, 245, 248n49Legnazzi, Milo, 236LeRoy, Mervyn, 143letterpress printing, 168–69Liebermann, Carl, 40Life magazine, 183n34

advertisements in, 179, 180–81African art and culture, 177–78,

186n76America arts and crafts in, 170–71,

175–77, 183n33ceases weekly publication, 178Christmas issues, 170, 174, 182n19circulation, 187n97, 188n98color reproduction of works of

art, 167–81, 181n3, 182n10,182n17, 187n91

competition from television, 178Dante’s 700th birthday special

issue, 179“The Golden Age of Furniture”, 179historic works of art and

architecture, 173–75, 184n52index to, 180–81logo used in life is a complicated

business, 180non-Western art in, 174, 184n49praise for, 169–72, 178–80prehistoric paintings, 179Sistine Chapel cover story, 174,

179–80, 184n45South Pacific, 177“Speaking of Pictures” articles, 168–69world in color, 172–73, 173–75,

183n35Life’s Picture History of

Western Man, 174–75lifestyles, see consumer cultureLightfoot, John, 100, 103, 105–6lighting, see factory interiors;

residential electric lightinglight, wavelengths of, 119, 120flilac, 99

See also mauve

280 INDEX

Literary Digest, The, on colormovies, 139, 141

Loewy, Raymond, 191–92Longwell, Daniel, 168, 171, 173, 174,

176, 181, 184n48Look magazine, 159Los Angeles Times, 153Louis Prang printing company, 124Luce, Henry Robinson, 168,

172, 174, 181Luckiesh, Matthew, 209Lyon silk weavers, 251–55, 260, 265

See also Première Vision

Mmadder red, 40, 44

See also alizarin;natural dyestuffs

magazines, 81–82, 177color psychology popularized in, 217competition from television, 178dye recipes in, 105new color names in, 97,

99–100, 102–04See also advertising; names of specific

magazinesmagenta (fuchsine), 100makeup

lighting for application of, 157f, 158ffor movies, 141–42personality and, 151–52Première Vision and, 259

Malmö Läderfabriks AB, Sweden, 229Mamie Pink/First Lady Pink, 86–87,

86f, 94n53Mamoulian, Rouben, 141, 143, 144Manufacture Nationales des Gobelins,

Paris, 13Manufacturing

color revolution in educationand, 56–57, 68–69

Germany as leader in, 12pollution from, 22–23, 25See also factory interiors

Marchand, Roland, 5marketing, 38, 46–49, 84, 105–7

market research, 192, 194, 216–18

role in color management, 10–11See also advertising; behavioral

psychologyMarling, Karal Ann, 87Marshall Plan (European Recovery

Program), 192Martin, Fletcher, 172–73Massachusetts Institute

of Technology (MIT)Technicolor development

by graduates of,134–35, 143, 145n12

Wilson at, 209material world, see color;

consumer cultureMatter, Max, 236, 248n31Mattison, Robert, 179mauve, 99, 100, 103–4,

104f, 109n17See also purple

mauveine, see aniline purpleMax Factor, see Factor, MaxMaxwell disk (“color wheel”, “rotating

disk”), 62, 64, 121–24, 125black in, 129n33Bradley’s Spectrum Standard

papers in, 71n31color diagram, 122f, 123fstudents’ use of, 66

Maxwell, James Clerk, 121–24, 125men’s clothes

color forecasts, 207f, 240, 248n41dark suits, 80, 81f, 98men’s leisurewear, 83trousers, 95n73See also gender

history of colorMesse Frankfurt, see InterstoffMickey Mouse cartoons, 140Middlemarch (Eliot), Judson’s Dyes

advertised in, 107Milton Bradley color wheel, 62, 63f, 64fMilton Bradley Company, 56,

62, 65, 68, 69f,125–26, 129n38

See also Bradley, MiltonModAmont (trade show), 260Modern American Painting (Life

magazine), 171, 183n33

INDEX 281

Modern ChromaticsWith Applications to Art and Industry

(1879, Rood), 113, 119, 120,122, 124, 126

Modern Inferno, A (Rauschenberg), 179modernist moment, 193, 212, 214Modeurop (ME, European color

organization), 227–46administrative and membership

rules, 236–38archival sources, 246n1chemical companies as associated

members, 237color forecasting by, 235–42, 238f,

247n23, 247n26, 249n57congresses of, 240–43,

248n49, 249n53Expert Committee, 239, 240–41Fashion Committee, 239–40,

241, 245financial problems and

dissolution, 243–44, 269n60leather garment committee, 240, 241member countries, 235–36,

237–39, 243men’s fashion report experts,

240, 248n41Nordic Fashion Council as model

for, 235oral history interviews, 228, 246n2Textile and Fashion Committee,

240, 248n41Monnet and Dury

(manufacturers), 98–99Montgomery, Charles F., 175, 176Moore, Charles, 179Moreton, Andrew, 258Morse, Ralph, 179Motherwell, Robert, 179motion pictures

color as an storytelling tool, 143color introduced in, 83, 134inventions in, 133–34make-up, sets, lighting, 141, 142sound in, 136, 139, 140, 144vertically integrated studios, 133See also cartoons; Technicolor

motivational research, 217–18movies, see motion pictures

Muirhead, Hugh H., 219Multicolor, 134, 145n11Munsell, Albert, 65, 193Munsell Color System, 12, 193, 214murexide, 100

NNapoleon (1927), 134National Geographic, 177, 186n74natural dyestuffs, 37

competition from synthetics, 38–39,41–49, 99

cost of dyes, 40–42, 42ffustic, logwood, and copperas, 105See also cochineal; dyewood extractors;

indigo; madder rednaturalists, color standards for, 125,

205, 212Newton, Gael, 177New York Post, 117New York Times, 7, 152, 161, 268n51Nichanian, Véronique, 263Nicholson, Edward, 106Nordic countries, 213–14, 236, 241Nordic Fashion Council (NMR),

231, 234–35Fashion Forecast for Shoes and

Leather, 233f, 234model for Modeurop, 235–36

Norwegian Shoe Council, 231

OO’Keeffe, Georgia, 171Olah, Andrew, 254On With the Show (1929), 139–40Orenstein, Peggy, 89, 95n71Ostwald, Wilhelm, 32n59

Ppainters, see artistsPaint Research Station, 213, 214paints, 199

Archrome paint colors for schoolbuildings, 214

British standards, 213–14

282 INDEX

DUCO automobile lacqueradvertisement, 6f

Palmer, Sue, 88, 95n71Pantone, 20Paoletti, Jo, 84Paradise of Childhood, The (Wiebé), 57Paris Fashion Week, 256, 259Paris, France

as fashion center, 12, 236, 248n35Nordic countries and, 232–34, 236Première Vision move to, 255–56

Parker, Martha, 152Patti Dress, 103–04, 104fPeabody, Elizabeth, 57, 59Peclers Paris (forecasting agency), 236,

248n35pedagogy, see color pedagogyPeirce, Charles Sanders, 113–15, 127n2

color research by, 118–19, 121–22,124, 126

work with Century Dictionary,118–19, 126

Pekonen, Aili, 229, 230–31, 233–34fPenn, Irving, 180perception of color, see color sciencePerkin’s mauve, see aniline purplePerkin, William Henry, 38

G. F. Perkin and Sons, 40, 102, 106market research, 47synthesis of alizarin, 40synthesis of color mauve, 1, 98, 100use of word purple by, 99See also aniline dyes

personality expression, color and,11, 161–62

character supplanted bypersonality, 150–52

domestic interiors, 153,163n5, 164n21

See also identityPersonality of a House, The (Post),

152–53photographic reporting, 172–73, 177Photoplay (fan magazine), 152physiological color theories

(Helmholtz), 119, 120fPillsbury, J. H., 59, 61–62pink, 77–91

affective economy of pink, 78, 91

for blondes, 82boys wearing, 83–84, 85f, 87–88gender history of, 78, 84–87, 90girls affected by pink femininity, 78f,

88–89, 89fMamie Pink/First Lady Pink, 86–87,

86f, 94n53pink princess culture, 87–90pink-toned light bulbs, 155, 159, 161popularity in the 1950s, 84–87transnational history, 77–78, 78f, 91

Pinkstinks (campaign and website),88–89, 89f

Pittsburgh Paint Glass Company (PPG),Color Dynamics, 199, 208

Poirrier (manufacturer), 106pollution from manufacturing, 22–23, 25Pop art, 179–80Post, Emily (advice columnist), 152–53Powers Cinephone, 140Prang, Louis, 59, 65Première Vision, 251–66

color card and trend forecast,243, 255–65

concertation meetings, 255,257, 261–62

development of, 257–60, 266n4European PreView, 260, 262, 268n35fashion culture changed by, 252,

265–66first show, 252forecasts, 252, 255–57, 260–63language of colors at, 264offshore production and, 265Shanghai edition, 260, 268n36themes, 258, 264timing of, 254–63trend forum exhibition

spaces, 257–58, 260–65Première Vision Pluriel, 252, 260, 266n3prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear)

presentations, 251–52, 256,257, 267n22

primary colors, 59–61, 123f, 124–25“primitive” state, prey to color,

80, 93n26princess culture, 87–90

See also pinkprinting technology, 55–70, 168–69

INDEX 283

printworks, 100–102, 106prisms, spectral colors seen using, 65Prizmacolor, 134, 145n11Promostyl (forecasting agency),

236, 248n35promotion, see advertising; marketingpsychology, see behavioral psychology;

color psychologypurple, 99–100, 102–4, 104f,

106, 109n17See also aniline purple

RR. R. Donnelley and Sons,

168–69, 180–81race, 30n25, 80Rankin, George M., 153rationalization, see color managementRauschenberg, Robert, 179ready-to-wear presentations, 251–52,

256, 257, 267n22red, 107

aniline red, 100madder red, 40, 44names from nature, 117–18See also alizarin

Red Race Riot (Warhol), 179Reichenbach, Karl, 116residential electric lighting, 149–63

as agent of transformation, 152colored light bulbs, 149–50, 153, 155,

159, 160f, 161–63, 165n47educational marketing campaigns

for, 155, 157–58fflattering light bulbs, 154–62gendered promotion of, 152,

156f, 162makeup lighting, 157–58f

retail and distributionBritish Colour Council and, 201–05dyestuffs industry, 39, 44, 46–49visual merchandising, 10, 67, 153See also consumer culture;

marketingretina, color sensations and, 119, 120f“reverse camouflage,” 194, 199, 208

Ridgway, Robert, 59, 118, 125–261886 Nomenclature of Colors for

Naturalists, 125, 205Rood, Ogden N., 113–15, 119, 120,

122–26, 123f, 127n2influence on Impressionism, 127n1

Rorke, Margaret Hayden, 194, 232influence of, 205interactive model of, 212–13seasonal color forecast by,

195f, 196–98fvisit to England, 201See also Textile Color Card Association

of the United StatesRosenquist, James, 180Rossi, Michael, 64rotary presses, 168–69Royal Institute of British Architects,

213, 214Royle, Thomas, 101–2, 106

SSadjadi, Sahar, 95n64salespeople, see marketingSandburg, Carl, 179Scandinavia, see Nordic countriesScherman, David, 170School Arts Magazine, 55schools

Archrome paint colors for schoolbuildings, 214

color instruction in elementaryschools, 55–70

sciences of sensation, see color sciencescientific management, 32n58, 193–94,

205, 211Seiberling, Dorothy, 179self-image, see identity; personality

expressionsensation, sciences of, see color scienceshade cards, see color cards/shade cardsShell Chemical Company, 216–17Shoe Fashion Council of Denmark, see

Danish Shoe Fashion CouncilShoe Fashion Council (SBR), see Swedish

Shoe Fashion Council

284 INDEX

Shoe Industry Planning Committee, 229shoe and leather industry, 227–46

Eastern Europe, 239fashion councils, 231,

233–34f, 234female shoe consultants, 229,

231, 234Le Cuir à Paris trade show, 260shoe color choice, 235shoe rationing, 228–29tanneries, 242See also Modeurop;

Nordic Fashion Councilshopping, see consumer culture“Significance of the Frontier

in American History, The”(Turner), 174–75, 185n53

silkdyeing, 38–39, 46weaving, 251–55, 260, 265See also Première Vision

Silk, George, 173Silly Symphony series, 140Simon, Christian, 105, 110n55Sistine Chapel,

Life cover story on,174, 179, 180

Sivulka, Juliann, 178Skobranschrådet, see Swedish Shoe

Fashion CouncilSkov, Lise, 252Sloan, F. M., 159Smith, George Albert, 134Smith, Walter, 59, 68Snow White and the Seven

Dwarfs (1937), 141Snyder, C., 124social class, color and, 7, 10–11Société La Fuchsine, 44soft drinks, color of, 27solar spectrum, 61, 124–25sound, in motion

pictures, 136,139, 140, 144

South Africa, functional color in, 209Southern California Edison

Company, 153

spectrum standards, see color standardsSpencer, Herbert, 59Star Is Born, A (1936), 141Steamboat Willie (1928), 140Stiebel, Victor, 205Stout, Myron, 179Street, Sarah, 134, 148n64Susman, Warren, 150Swaisland Printworks, 101–2, 106Swedish Shoe Fashion Council

(Skobranschrådet, SBR), 228–30,235, 246n8

Switzerlanddyestuffs industry, 39, 45Modeurop administration in, 236

Sylvania Electric light bulbs, 149, 153,155, 159

Symonds, Edward H., 205synthetic dyes

competition with naturaldyestuffs, 38–39, 41–43, 45–49

growth in number of, 5, 7, 42–44, 43f,48–49, 58–59

meaning of colors and, 67pollution from manufacturing,

22–23, 25used as food colorings, 25–27See also alizarin; aniline dyes; dyestuffs

industrySzabo, Dominique, 259

TTaine, Hippolyte, 82tanners, see shoe and leather industryTaylor, Francis Henry, 177teachers, see color pedagogy; schoolsTechnicolor, 134–44

Academy Award Certificate, 141cameras for, 137–39, 138f, 139f, 141color use in, 138, 142–43Disney and, 140dyes introduced to, 136first lab in railroad car, 135, 135ffirst plant in Hollywood, 137Fortune magazine on, 133–34glued projection prints, 136

INDEX 285

Technicolor (cont.)live-action Technicolor films, 141make-up, sets, lighting, 141–42problems with complexity of, 138,

141, 143progressive development, 143–44projectors for, 136soundtracks with, 136Technicolor Process Number

Four, 137–43, 139fTechnicolor Process Number

One, 135–36Technicolor Process Number

Three, 136Technicolor Process Number

Two, 136two-color methods, 135–36See also Disney, Walt

Technicolor Color AdvisoryService, 142–43

teenagers, see children and teenagerstelevision, competition to

magazines, 178Textile Color Card Association of the

United States (TCCA), 11, 20, 201,204, 230, 268n51, 269n60

See also Rorke, Margaret Haydentextile industry

color management in, 194, 201–4cost of dyes, 41–42, 42fenvironmental hazards, 22–23, 25France, 253inspired by Nordic Fashion

Council, 235move to synthetics, 251See also dyestuffs industry; silk;

trade fairstheater, color in, 83Thompson, Edward K., 173Three Little Pigs, The (1933), 141three-primary system, 61Time magazine, 168, 187n97Toll of the Sea, The (1922), 136Tolman, Deborah L., 89Towle, H. Ledyard, 194, 199, 208Toxvaerd, Kirsten, 243,

245–46, 248n50trade fairs, 253–55, 267n20

Expofil, 260

Indigo, 260Interstoff (Frankfurt-based

fair), 251–52, 253–54, 255–56Le Cuir à Paris, 260ModAmont, 260ready-to-wear presentations, 251,

256, 257See also Première Vision

transatlantic influences, 13, 97–98British perceptions of

American color practice, 191–221color forum, 217–18, 219“color revolution,” 2–3knowledge transfers and

entanglements, 11–13multiple information flows, 214Nordic countries and,

231–34, 247n30transnational history of pink,

77–78, 78fWilson’s color tour of the US and

Canada, 209trends, see color cards; Economic Colour

Trends Ltd.; forecasts; PremièreVision

Tribune, on electric lighting, 159Trüb, Rolf, 243, 244, 245Turner, Frederick Jackson, 174–75,

185n53“Tyrian purple.”, see aniline purple

UUnited Kingdom, see BritainUnited States, see AmericaUpjohn, color art in advertisements, 181Urban, Charles, 134utilitarian arts, survey of in Life, 175–77

VVerguin, François-Emmanuel, 100violine, see aniline purplevisual and material culture, see chemical

industry; consumer culturevisual perceptions, see color scienceVitaphone (sound recording

system), 139Vogues of 1938 (1937), 142

286 INDEX

WWall Street Journal, The, 153Walt Disney, see Disney, Waltwar, see World War IIWarhol, Andy, 179Warner brothers, technological

innovation by, 139–40Washington Post, The, 11, 155, 161wastewater treatment, 22–23, 25watercolorists, 123, 125weavers of Lyon, 251–55, 260, 265

See also Première VisionWellman, William, 141Wescott, W. Burton, 135Westinghouse Electric light bulbs, 149,

153, 159, 161Whitney, John Hay “Jock”, 141Wiebé, Edward, 57Wilhelm, Pascaline, 261Wilkinson and Co., 102–5, 103f, 110n55

experiments with Nicholson’sBlue, 106

Wilson, Charles E., 153Wilson Colour Chart, The, 205, 212Wilson, Robert F., 203–5, 208–9, 211

books by, 212, 217color tour of the US and Canada, 209interactive model by, 212–13

Wimpenny, Abel, 100, 103Winlock, Herbert E., 170Winterthur Museum in

Delaware, 175–76Wizard of Oz, The (1939), 143, 144women, see femininity; gender

history of colorwomen’s magazines, see magazinesWomen’s Wear Daily, 205, 267n27Wood, Grant, 172workplaces, see factory interiors;

manufacturingWorld War II

in color in Life magazine, 172–73effect on functional color, 208, 210Swedish Shoe Fashion Council

and, 228

YYano, Christine, 77yellow, see Isabel/Isabella yellowYoung-Helmholtz theory, 59–60

ZZinterhoffer, Aerin Lauder, 259

INDEX 287