621

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1Malaysia policy 5668 Heeren Street 2138Q SAM 477

AAbu Bakar Mosque 252accommodation, see

also individual locationsBrunei 454, 471language 611Malaysia 592-3Singapore 473, 515-19,

537, 538Acheen St Mosque 155activities 28-34, see also

individual activitiesA’Famosa 209, 212A’Famosa Resort 225-6Agnes Keith House 339Air Batang (ABC) 247-8Air Hangat 188-9air travel

airfares 600airlines 600airports 600to/from Brunei 465-6to/from Malaysia 600to/from Singapore 541-2within Malaysia 601

alcoholic drinks 584Alor Gajah 225-6Alor Setar 200-4, 201ambuyat 36, 82, 463, 581amusement parks, see

theme parksanimals, see individual spe-

cies, wildlife sanctuaries & reserves, zoos

animism 571-2Annah Rais Longhouse

408-9apes, see orang-utans

Aquaria KLCC 47aquariums

Aquaria KLCC 47Lagenda Langkawi Dalam

Taman 185Underwater World (Pulau

Langkawi) 185-6Underwater World

(Sentosa Island) 498architecture 20, 575

Ipoh 118itineraries 144, 501, 144,

501Penang 156Putrajaya 104Seremban 109-10

Architecture Museum 209area codes 19art galleries, see galleries,

museumsarts 21, 574-8, see also

individual artscontemporary

sculpture 485Asah Waterfall 246Asian Civilisations Museum

477Atkinson Clock Tower 306ATMs 595Aur, Pulau 239Ayor Keroh 225

BBa Kelalan 448Baba House 483Baba-Nonya, see Peranakan

peopleBaba-Nonya Heritage

Museum 214Badan Warisan Malaysia 51Badawi, Abdullah 560Bahasa Malaysia (Malay),

see languagebak kut teh 38Bako National Park 400-4Bakun Dam Project 587-8Balai Besar 202

Balai Nobat 202Bandar Labuan 375-8, 376Bandar Seri Begawan

456-67, 458accommodation 461-2activities 456-60drinking 464emergencies 465entertainment 464food 462-4internet access 465macaques 461medical services 465money 465postal services 465road safety 457shopping 464sights 456-60tourist information 465tours 460-1travel to/from 465-6travel within 466-7

Bangar 468-9Banggi, Pulau 336Bangsar Baru 65-6, 83-4,

86, 89-90, 84Bank Kerapu 273Bank Negara Malaysia Mu-

seum & Art Gallery 57Bario 444-8Barisan Nasional (National

Front) 548, 558, 560basketry 577Batang Ai 416-17Batang Duri 470Batang Rejang 421-6bathrooms 541, 597batik 577

courses & classes 59, 89, 250, 258, 276-7

galleries 58shopping 59, 89, 172, 250

Batu Caves 16, 99-100, 17Batu Ferringhi 176-9Batu Maung 181Batu Punggul 371-2

Bau 411-13Bawang Assan Longhouse

Village 417-18Bazaar Baru Chow Kit 67, 73beaches

Air Batang (ABC) 247-8Batu Ferringhi 176-9Brunei 460Cherating 257-60, 259Genting 250Juara 249-50Kampung Paya 250Mukut 251Nipah 251Port Dickson 113-15Pulau Besar (Johor) 237-8Pulau Besar (Melaka)

225-6Pulau Lang Tengah 291-2Pulau Langkawi 10, 189,

186-7, 11Pulau Manukan 320Pulau Pangkor 134-40,

135, 137Pulau Perhentian 9, 286,

284, 9Pulau Rawa 238-9Pulau Redang 292-3Pulau Sibu 238Pulau Tinggi 238Salang 248-9Singapore 500

Beaufort 372-3Beaufort Division 372-4bedbugs 609bedil (cannons) 460Bee Yinn Low 169belacan 580Belaga 425Belait District 467-8bersilat (Malaysian martial

art) 576Besar, Pulau (Johor) 237-8Besar, Pulau (Melaka) 225-6bicycling, see cyclingBidayuh people 564

Index

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

622

INDEX B

-C

Bidong Island 301Bilit 351-2Bintulu 426-7, 428binturong (bear cat) 245bird-singing contest 277birdwatching 34

Cape Rachado Forest Reserve 113, 114

Danum Valley Conversation Area 355

Endau-Rompin National Park 239

Fraser’s Hill (Bukit Fraser) 102

Gomantong Caves 348, 350

Jurong Bird Park 498Kenong Rimba State

Park 268-9Kinabalu National Park

328KL Bird Park 53Mt Kinabalu 328Taman Negara Perlis 205Tawau Hills Park 367

Boat Quay 477boat travel 602

to/from Brunei 465, 601to/from Indonesia 601to/from Singapore 601to/from Thailand 601to/from the Philippines

601boat trips 34

Kuantan 254Melaka River Cruise 216Pulau Langkawi 190, 191Sungai Kinabatangan

349-50Taman Negara 263

Boh Sungei Palas Tea Estate 127, 13

Bolkiah, Sultan Hassanal 568

books 548, 549-50, 574environment 587, 589history 552, 553, 554,

555, 556, 558religion 569

border crossings 600-1, see also boat travel

Brunei to Sabah 465Brunei to Sarawak 466Johor Bahru to Indonesia

(Riau Islands) 234

Johor Bahru to Singapore 232

Kedah to Thailand 203, 206

Kota Bharu to Thailand 280

Kuching to Indonesia 409

Malaysia to Indonesia 224

Sabah to Indonesia 366Sabah to the Philippines

343Sarawak to Brunei 439Sarawak to Indonesia

451Singapore to Johor

Bahru 543, 544Borneo, see Brunei, Sabah,

SarawakBorneo Sun Bear Conser-

vation Centre 344-5Botanical Gardens 158Brickfields 53-5, 65-6, 83,

89-90, 54Brunei 43, 454-72, 455

accommodation 454, 471budget 471climate 454currency 471drugs & alcohol 471economy 550emergencies 471food 454highlights 455history 555holidays 471legal matters 471medical services 471money 465, 471politics 550, 568postal services 465public holidays 471tourist information

465, 471travel seasons 454travel to/from 465-6travel within 466-7visas 471women travellers 471

Brunei Museum 460Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

484Buddhism 160, 570-1budgeting 18, 471, 538,

592, 594Bukit Brown Cemetery 496Bukit China 215Bukit Fraser (Fraser’s Hill)

102-4, 103

Bukit Gemok Forest Reserve 364

Bukit Larut 146Bukit Malawati 108Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve

47Bukit Timah Nature

Reserve 494bumiputra (indigenous

Malaysians) 559, 565bus travel

within Malaysia 602within Singapore 544-5

business hoursMalaysia 593Singapore 537

butterflies 331Butterfly Park 55Cameron Highlands

Butterfly Farm 129Penang Butterfly Farm

180Zoo Negara (National

Zoo) 100

Ccable cars 101Cameron Bharat Tea

Plantation 127Cameron Highlands 13,

126-33, 128, 131, 13accommodation 129-32food 132-3sights 127-9tea 127, 133tours 129travel to/from 133travel within 133trekking 130

camping 592canopy walkways

Danum Valley Conserva-tion Area 355

Forestry Research Institute of Malaysia (FRIM) 100

Gunung Mulu National Park 440

Hutan Rekreasi Air Keroh 225

MacRitchie Reservoir 495

Maliau Basin Conservation Area 368

Pulau Langkawi 192Sabah 331Taman Negara 261-2Ulu Temburong National

Park 471-2Cape Rachado Forest

Reserve 113, 114

car travelwithin Malaysia 602-3within Singapore 545-6

Carey, Pulau 107casinos 101Cat Musuem 389Cathay Gallery 408Cave Villa 99-100caves

Batu Caves 16, 99-100, 17

Batu Tulug 348-9Dark Cave 99Deer Cave 440,

502-3, 511Fairy Cave 412Gomantong Caves 348,

350Gua Charas 258Ipoh’s temple caves 119Lang’s Cave 440Mulu’s adventure caves

441-2Mulu’s show caves 440-1Niah National Park

429-31Sleeping Buddha Cave

258Taman Negara Perlis 205Tasik Chini 252, 588Tasik Kenyir 302

caving 33, 412cell phones 19

in Malaysia 597in Singapore 540

cemeteriesBukit Brown Cemetery

496Bukit China 215Commonwealth Allied

War Cemetery 142Kranji War Memorial 495Protestant Cemetery 156

cendol 36-8, 582Central Market (Kota

Bharu) 279, 75, 78-9Central Market (Kota

Kinabalu) 306Changi 491-3Changi Museum & Chapel

491Changi Village 491-3char kway teow 38Cheah Kongsi 158Cheng Ho Cultural Museum

214Cheng Hoon Teng Temple

214Cheong Fatt Tze

Mansion 159Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

623IN

DEX C

-G Cherating 257-60, 259children, travel with 61,

593-4, 609-10Chiling Waterfall 101Chinatown (George Town)

151-5, 163, 165, 167-8Chinatown (Kuala Lumpur)

16, 51-3, 61-2, 72, 86, 89, 50-1, 16, 80

Chinatown (Melaka City) 213-14, 217-19, 220-1

Chinatown (Singapore) 483-5, 516-17, 520-2, 528-9, 534-5, 482-3

Chinatown Wet Market 67Chinese Heritage Museum

229Chinese New Year 22, 35Chinese opera 576Chinese people 563Chingay 22Chow Kit 55-7, 56-7churches

Changi Museum & Chapel 491

Church of the Visitation 111

St Andrew’s Cathedral 483

St Michael’s & All Angels Church 339

St Paul’s Church 212St Peter’s Church 215Wesley Church 111

cinema 577-8civets 268Clan Jetties 156clanhouses 151-3, 158Clarke Quay 477classes, see courses &

classesclimate 18, 22-3, see

also individual regionsBrunei 454Malaysia 594Singapore 473

Clock Tower 202coffee (kopi) 583coffee shops (kopi tiams)

39, 581Colonial District 476-83,

515-16, 519-20, 527-8, 533-4, 478-9

Commonwealth Allied War Cemetery 142

Confucianism 570-1consulates

Malaysia 594Singapore 538

contemporary art 21, 578costs 18, 471, 538, 592, 594

courses & classesbatik 59, 89, 250, 258,

276-7cooking 36, 59, 159, 177,

215-16, 273-6, 389, 513 gamelan 59horse-riding 258language 59meditation 59music & dance 59-60pewtersmithing 59surfing 249, 257yoga 58, 159, 513

crafts 21, 577, see also markets, shopping

credit cards 595cruises, see boat tripsculture 562-8currency 18

Brunei 471Malaysia 595-6Singapore 539-40

curries 580customs regulations

Malaysia 594Singapore 537

cycling, see also mountain biking

Melaka City 216Malaysia 601-2

Ddance 59-60, 88, 533,

575-6dangers 596-7, 603Danum Valley Conservation

Area 9, 354-6, 8Dark Cave 99Dayak people 564-5Dayang, Pulau 239Deepavali 23, 35deer 271Deer Park 55Deerland 271Dempsey Hill 493dengue fever 606-7desserts 395, 582diarrhoea, traveller’s 607Din Tai Fung 520disabilities, travellers with

Malaysia 598Singapore 541

diving 6, 28, 508, see also snorkelling

Bandar Labuan 375costs 34health 608Layang Layang 336-7Mabul 361-2

planning 33-4Pulau Aur 239Pulau Dayang 239Pulau Kapas 293-4Pulau Langkawi 190-1Pulau Lankayan 347-8Pulau Mantanani 336Pulau Pemanggil 239Pulau Perhentian 283-5,

287Pulau Redang 292-3Pulau Sibu 238Pulau Tinggi 238Pulau Tioman 244-5Semporna Archipelago

359-61Sipadan 6, 359-61, 3, 7Tunku Abdul Rahman

National Park 320-2dolphins 405, 407, 498Dr Ho Eng Hui 222Dr Sun Yat Sen’s Penang

Base 154Dragon Boat Festival 22-3drama 575-6drinking water 607drinks 584driving, see car traveldrugs 471, 595Durian Perangin 188durians 583

EEast Coast Park 489East India Company 553-4Eastern & Oriental Hotel

163, 166economy 550, 559-60ecotourism

accommodation 300, 335, 351, 356, 436

food 314sights 343-4tour operators 295, 311

electricity 538, 593, 594elephants 239, 270-1, 505embassies

Malaysia 594Singapore 538

emergencies 19, 471, 613Emergency, the 555, 557endangered species 344,

415, 586, 589Endau 252Endau-Rompin National

Park 239-41, 240environmental issues 270,

585-90

Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay 481

events 22-3exchange rates 19Expedition Robinson 237EZ-Link card 546

Ffax services 597festivals 22-3, 514

food 390Hindu 16, 571Islamic 570

film 577-8fireflies 108, 257, 300Fish Cave (Gua Ikan) 282fish heads, steamed 38fishing

Cherating 257Taman Negara 262Tasik Kenyir 302

folk medicine 610food 35-9, 579-84, 594, see

also individual foods & regions

cooking courses 36, 59, 159, 177, 215-16, 273-6, 389, 513

desserts 395, 582language 612-13street 6tours 60

Forestry Research Institute of Malaysia (FRIM) 100

fortsFort Canning Park 481Fort Cornwallis 156Fort Siloso 498-9Fort Sylvia 422

Fraser’s Hill (Bukit Fraser) 102-4, 103

FRIM (Forestry Research Institute of Malaysia) 100

fruit 583

GGaleri Pengangkutan

Air 253Galeri Petronas 47Galeri Sultan Abdul Halim

202Galeria Perdana 190galleries, see also

museumsBank Negara Malaysia

Museum & Art Gallery 57

Cathay Gallery 489Galeri Petronas 47

624

INDEX

G-J

galleries continuedGillman Barracks 498KL City Gallery 52Melaka City 214National Visual Art

Gallery 58State Art Gallery 202

gardens, see also parks & reserves

Botanical Gardens 158Lake Gardens Park (Tun

Abdul Razak Heritage Park) 54-5

Lake Gardens (Seremban) 109

National Orchid Garden 489

Singapore Botanic Gardens 488-9

Taman Botani 104Tun Abdul Razak

Heritage Park (Lake Gardens Park) 54-5

Gardens by the Bay 477-81gay travellers 538-9, 595

Brunei 471Kuala Lumpur 87Melaka City 223Singapore 532

Gaya, Pulau 320Genting 250Genting Highlands 101Genting Skyway 101George Town 10, 151-76,

152-3, 10, 21accommodation 162-7Chinatown 151-5, 163,

165, 167-8courses 159drinking 171-2entertainment 171-2festivals & events 160,

162food 167-71internet access 174internet resources 174-5Little India 155-7, 166,

168-9medical services 174money 174postal services 174shopping 172-4sights 151-9tourist information 174-5tours 159-60, 161, 161travel agencies 174

travel to/from 175-6travel within 176walking tours 161, 161

George Town World Heritage Inc. Headquarters 156

Geylang 489Geylang Serai Wet Market

491giardiasis 607gibbons, white-handed 205Gillman Barracks 498golf

Alor Gajah 225-6Gopeng 125Kemasik 301Santubong Peninsula

406Singapore 512 Tioman 247

Gomantong Caves 348, 350

Gombak 100-1Gopeng 125-6Gua Charas 258Gua Ikan (Fish Cave) 282Gua Kelam 205Gua Wang Burma 205guesthouses 592Gunung Bengoh 412-13Gunung Gading National

Park 413-14Gunung Kinabalu, see Kina-

balu National ParkGunung Ledong National

Park 235Gunung Mulu National Park

438-44, 32, 503Gunung Raya 189Gunung Stong State Park

282

HHainan Temple 155Hainanese chicken-rice

38, 81handicrafts, 21, 577, see

also individual craftshantu jarang gigi (snaggle-

toothed ghost) 241Haw Par Villa 497hawker stalls

George Town 170, 37Johor Bahru 232Kota Kinabalu 316Kuala Lumpur 66, 71,

72, 83Melaka City 220Singapore 522Tawau 365

health 606-10diving 608environmental hazards

608-9infectious diseases

606-7language 613malaria 607traditional medicine 610vaccinations 606

heat stroke 608helicopter flights 191Heritage District 229Hidden Valley (Lost World)

412-13hiking, see trekking,

walkinghill stations

Bukit Larut 146Cameron Highlands 13,

126-33, 128, 13Fraser’s Hill (Bukit

Fraser) 102-4, 103Genting Highlands 101

Hinduism 571history 551-61

Asian financial crisis 559-60

Badawi, Abdullah 560Borneo 554-6British rule 555-6Dutch rule 553East India Company

553-4Emergency, the 555, 557Ibrahim, Anwar 558, 559Mahathir, Mohamad 558Malay independence 557Malaya, Federation of

556-7Melaka empire 552-3Napoleon 553-4Portuguese rule 553WWII 556

hitching 603holidays

Brunei 471Malaysia 596Singapore 540-1

Holland Village 493home stays 592

George Town 166Kelantan 282Kota Bharu 277Penang 181Semporna Archipelago

359Sungai Kinabatangan

352Temerloh 271

hostels 592hot springs, see also spas

Air Hangat 188-9Sabah 331Tawau Hills Park 367

hotels 592-3House of Yeap Chor Ee 156Hui, Dr Ho Eng 222Hulu Klang 100Hungry Ghost Festival 23Hutan Rekreasi Air Keroh

225

IIban (Sea Dayak) people

564Ibrahim, Anwar 558, 559Images of Singapore 500Imbi Market 66immigration 600Indian people 563indigenous peoples

Bidayuh 564Iban (Sea Dayak) 564Minangkabau 109Orang Asli 240, 252, 261,

269, 563-4Penan 447

insurancecar 603health 539travel 595

internet access 595, see also individual locations

internet resources 19, 548, see also individual locations

food & drink 575health 606, 607

Ipoh 118-25, 120-1Iskandar Development

Region 229Islam 552, 568, 569-70Islamic Arts Museum 53Islamic Museum 209Istana Abu Bakar 252Istana Lama 112Istana Permai 252itineraries 24-7, 24-7

Kuala Lumpur 53Singapore 481

JJaan 519jackfruit 583Jalan Alor 71Jalan Labi 467Jalan Petaling 51

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

625IN

DEX J-L Jek Yap 129Jerantut 265-7, 266Jerejak, Pulau 180Johor 41, 227-41, 228

accommodation 227activities 227climate 227highlights 228travel seasons 227

Johor Bahru 228-34, 230Johor National Parks

Corporation 239Jonker’s Walk Night Market

15, 222, 223, 15Juara 249-50Jurong Bird Park 498

KKadazan-Dusun people 565kain songket (fabric with

gold thread) 577Kampong Glam 487-8,

524-5, 529, 535, 486Kampung Ayer 9, 456, 8Kampung Baru 55-7, 56-7Kampung Baru Mosque 57Kampung Baru Night

Market 83Kampung Benuk 408Kampung Chitty 215kampung houses 575Kampung Kling Mosque

214Kampung Paya 250Kampung Pulau Betong

181-2Kangar 204-5Kapalai 363Kapas, Pulau 293-4Kapit 422-5, 424Katong 489-91kayaking 34

Cherating 257Pulau Tioman 249

Kedah 41, 183-206, 184accommodation 183climate 183food 183highlights 184travel seasons 183

kek lapis (striped layer cakes) 395

Kek Lok Si Temple 157-8Kelabit Highlands 12,

444-51Kelantan 273-82, 274-5

accommodation 272climate 272food 272

highlights 274-5travel seasons 272

Kemasik 301Kenong Rimba State Park

268-9kerabu beromak 38Khoo Kongsi 151-3Kinabalu National Park

13, 322-30, 323, 329, 13, 511

accommodation 328-30climbing trails 325-7food 330permits 323-4planning 323-5travel to/from 330via ferrata 327walking 327-8

Kinabatangan Orang-utan Conservation Project (KOCP) 349

Kinabatangan River 348-53Kinta Heritage 129Kinta Valley Heritage

Loop 126kite festival 277kites 577KL Bird Park 53KL City Gallery 52KL Festival 60KL Train Station 55Klang 106-7Klang Valley 105-7KLIA (Kuala Lumpur

International Airport) 19, 91, 600

kongsi (Chinese clanhouses) 151-3, 158

kopi (coffee) 583kopi tiams (coffee shops)

39, 581Kota Belud 333-4Kota Bharu 14, 273-81,

276, 281, 14Kota Kinabalu 306-20,

308accommodation 312-14activities 306-11drinking 316-17emergencies 317entertainment 316-17food 314-16internet access 317medical services 317money 317-18postal services 318shopping 317sights 306-11tourist information 313tours 311-12

travel to/from 318-19travel within 319-20

Kota Kuala Kedah 204Kota Mahsuri 189-90Kranji War Memorial 495Kris Cave 282Kuah 185, 192-3, 196Kuala Belait 468Kuala Gandah Elephant

Conservation Centre 270-1

Kuala Kangsar 140-2, 141Kuala Kedah 204Kuala Kubu Bharu 101Kuala Lipis 267-8Kuala Lumpur 40, 46-96,

48-9, 56-7, 63accommodation 46,

60-6activities 58Bangsar Baru 65-6, 83-4,

86, 89-90, 84Brickfields 53-5, 65-6,

83, 89-90, 54children, travel with 61Chinatown 16, 51-3,

61-2, 72, 86, 89, 50-1, 16, 80

climate 46courses 59-60drinking 84-6entertainment 86-8festivals & events 60food 46, 66-7, 70-2, 83-4Golden Triangle 47, 51,

62-4, 66-7, 70-1, 85-6, 88-9, 68-9

highlights 48-9history 47internet access 90internet recources 91itineraries 53Little India 55, 57, 64, 72medical services 91money 91postal services 91shopping 88-90sights 47, 51-8Titiwangsa 58, 59tourist information 91tours 60travel seasons 46travel to/from 91-3travel within 93-6, 95

Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA) 19, 91, 600

Kuala Pilah 112-13Kuala Selangor 107-9Kuala Terengganu

295-9, 296

Kuan Yin Teng 154Kuantan 254-7, 255Kubah National Park

409-11Kuching 11, 382-400,

384-5, 401, 11accommodation 390-2activities 389climate 379courses 389drinking 394-5emergencies 397entertainment 395-6festivals & events 390food 392-4internet access 397medical services 397money 397postal services 397shopping 396sights 382-9tourist information 397-8tours 389-90travel to/from 398-9travel within 399-400

Kuching Wetlands National Park 406-7

Kudat 335-6

LLabrador Nature Reserve

497Labrador Secret Tunnels

497Labuk Bay Proboscis

Monkey Sanctuary 345-6

Lagenda Langkawi Dalam Taman 185

Lahad Datu 353-4Lake Gardens Park (Tun

Abdul Razak Heritage Park) 54-5

Lake Titiwangsa 58, 59laksa 394, 77, 80Lambir Hills National Park

431-2Lang Tengah, Pulau 291-2Langkawi 10, 41, 185-200,

184, 186-7, 11accommodation 183,

192-6activities 185-90, 190-2climate 183drinking 198-9festivals & events 192food 183, 196-8highlights 184internet access 199internet resources 199

626

INDEX L-M

Langkawi continuedmedical services 199money 199shopping 199sights 185-90tourist information 199tours 190-2travel seasons 183travel to/from 199-200travel within 200

Langkawi Bird Paradise 185Langkawi Crocodile Farm

188Lankayan, Pulau 347-8language 18, 59, 566,

611-15Layang Layang 336-7leeches 262, 608legal matters

Brunei 471Malaysia 595Singapore 539

Legoland 231Lei Shen Gong Buddhist

Temple 252lesbian travellers

538-9, 595Brunei 471Kuala Lumpur 87Melaka City 223Singapore 532

Limbang 451-3literature 574, see

also booksLittle India (George Town)

155-7, 166, 168-9Little India (Kuala Lumpur)

55, 57, 64, 72Little India (Melaka City)

215Little India (Singapore)

485-7, 517-18, 525, 529, 535, 486

Little Penang Street Market 173

lizards, monitor 248, 257, 320, 321

Loke Mansion 57longhouses 15, 565, 593

Annah Rais Longhouse 408-9

Batang Rejang 421, 423, 425

Bawang Assan Long-house Village 417-18

Pulau Kapas 294

Sarawak Cultural Village 404, 15

Lundu 413

MMabul 361-2macaques 205, 245, 402,

461, 504MacRitchie Reservoir 495Mahathir, Marina 567Mahathir, Mohamad 558Mahathir’s Birthplace

200-1Malabar Muslim Jama-Ath

Mosque 487-8malaria 607Malay people 562-3Malaya, Federation of

556-7Malayan Railway Adminis-

tration Building 55Malaysia 46-453

accommodation 592-3business hours 593camping 592climate 594consulate 594customs regulations 594disabilities, travellers

with 598embassies 594food 579-85history 556-7, 560holidays 596home stays 592legal matters 595maps 595money 595-6politics 548-9, 566-7population 548postal services 596tourist information 597-8tours 604travel to/from 600-1travel within 601-5visas 598volunteering 598women travellers 599work 599

Maliau Basin Conservation Area 367-9

Malihom 182malls

George Town 173-4Johor Bahru 232-3Kuala Lumpur 88-90Melaka City 223Singapore 533-4, 535-7

Mantanani, Pulau 336

Manukan, Pulau 320maps 595Marang 300-1Mariamnan Hindu Temple

252Marina Bay 476-83, 520,

533-4Maritime Experiential

Museum 498Maritime Museum & Naval

Museum 213markets 6-7, 14

Bazaar Baru Chow Kit 67, 73

Central Market (Kota Bharu) 279, 75, 78-9

Central Market (Kota Kinabalu) 306

Central Market (Kuala Lumpur) 89

Imbi Market 66Jalan Petaling 51Jonker’s Walk Night

Market 15, 222, 223, 15Kampung Baru Night

Market 83Kuala Lumpur 67Little Penang Street

Market 173Pulau Langkawi night

market 197Sibu Central Market 419

Masjid Jamek 51Masjid Kampung Hulu 214Masjid Kapitan Keling 157Masjid Negara 55Masjid Negeri 254Masjid Zahir 202Mass Rapid Transit (MRT)

546massage

Batu Ferringhi 177Kuala Lumpur 58Melaka City 216Ranau 331Singapore 512

Mataking 363Matang Mangrove Forest

Reserve 146-7Matang Wildlife Centre

410-11Maxwell Rd Hawker Centre

521McMurtrie, Narelle 194measures

Malaysia 593Singapore 540

media 578medical services 606,

see also individual locations

medicine, traditional & folk 610

Melaka 41, 207-26, 208accommodation 207climate 207food 207highlights 208travel seasons 207

Melaka City 209-25, 210-11accommodation 217-20activities 215-16Chinatown 213-14,

217-19, 220-1drinking 222emergencies 223entertainment 222-3festivals & events 216food 220-2internet access 224medical services 224money 224postal services 224shopping 223sights 209, 212-15tourist information

223-4tours 216travel to/from 224travel within 224-5

Melaka Zoo 225Menara Alor Star 201-2Menara Taming Sari 216Merang 299-300Merdeka Square 52Mersing 234-7, 236Mesilau Nature Resort

330-1metalwork 577Minangkabau people 109Miri 432-8, 434mobile phones 19

Malaysia 597Singapore 540

money 18, 19Brunei 465, 471Malaysia 595-6Singapore 539-40

moneychangers 596monkeys 257, 268, 345-6,

see also individual species

mosquesAbu Bakar Mosque 252Acheen St Mosque 155Kampung Baru Mosque

57Kampung Kling Mosque

214Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

627IN

DEX M-P

Malabar Muslim Jama-Ath Mosque 487-8

Masjid Jamek 51Masjid Kampung Hulu

214Masjid Kapitan Keling 157Masjid Negara 55Masjid Negeri 254Masjid Zahir 202Sultan Abdullah Mosque

252Sultan Abu Bakar

Mosque 229Sultan Mosque 487

motorcycle travel 602-3mountain biking 311, 494,

544, see also cyclingmountain climbing

costs 28, 31Gunung Mulu Summit

442Mt Kinabalu 13, 322-30,

323, 329, 13, 511planning 31-3Pulau Berhala 349

Mr Raja 119MRT (Mass Rapid Transit)

546Mt Kinabalu, see Kinabalu

National ParkMuar 234Mukut 251museums 21, see also

galleriesArchitecture Museum

209Asian Civilisations

Museum 477Baba House 483Baba-Nonya Heritage

Museum 214Bank Negara Malaysia

Museum & Art Gallery 57

Brunei Museum 460Cat Museum 389Changi Museum &

Chapel 491Cheng Ho Cultural

Museum 214Cheong Fatt Tze

Mansion 159Chinese Heritage

Museum 229Chinese History Museum

382Dr Sun Yat Sen’s Penang

Base 154Galeri Pengangkutan

Air 253Galeri Sultan Abdul

Halim 202

Galeria Perdana 190House of Yeap Chor

Ee 156Images of Singapore 500Islamic Arts Museum 53Islamic Museum 209Laman Padi 186-7Mahathir’s Birthplace

200-1Maritime Experiential

Museum 498Maritime Museum

& Naval Museum 213Museum Sultan Abu

Bakar 253Muzium Diraja 202Muzium Kota Kayang

204-5Muzium Negeri (Alor

Setar) 200Muzium Negeri Perlis

205Muzium Negeri

(Seremban) 109-10Muzium Perak 142Muzium Rakyat 209National Museum 53-4National Museum of

Singapore 476-7National Textiles

Museum 52-3NUS Museums 497Orang Asli Museum

100-1P Ramlee House 158-9Paddy Museum 204Penang Museum 155-6Peranakan Museum 477Petrosains 57Pinang Peranakan

Mansion 155Royal Abu Bakar

Museum 229Sultanate Palace 212

music 59-60, 549, 576-7Muzium Diraja 202Muzium Kota Kayang

204-5Muzium Negeri (Alor

Setar) 200Muzium Negeri Perlis 205Muzium Negeri

(Seremban) 109-10Muzium Rakyat 209

Nnasi lemak 39, 74, 122National Front (Barisan

Nasional) 548, 558, 560National Monument 54National Museum 53-4

National Museum of Singapore 476-7

National Orchid Garden 489

national parks, see parks & reserves

National Planetarium 55National Textiles Museum

52-3National Visual Art

Gallery 58Negeri Sembilan 40,

97-115, 98accommodation 97climate 97food 97highlights 98history 99travel seasons 97

newspapersMalaysia 593Singapore 540

Niah National Park 429-31Night Market (Kota Bharu)

278Night Safari 17, 494Nipah 251noodles 580, 76

Oopening hours

Malaysia 593Singapore 537

opera, Chinese 576Orang Asli people 240, 252,

261, 269, 563-4Orang Asli Museum 100-1orang-utans 10, 333,

343-4, 345, 349, 407-8, 10, 504

Orchard Road 488-9, 518, 526-7, 529-30, 535-6, 490

Oriental Village 187-8

PP Ramlee House 158-9Paddy Museum 204Pahang 42, 242-71,

243, 14accommodation 242climate 242food 242highlights 243travel seasons 242

palacesAmpang Tinggi Palace

109Istana Abu Bakar 252

Istana Alam Shah 106Istana Iskandanah 140Istana Lama 112Istana Maziah 295Istana Nurul Iman 459Istana Permai 252

palm oil 586-7Pangkor, Pulau 134-40,

135, 137Pantai Tengah 190-1, 190parks & reserves 31, see

also gardensBako National Park

400-4Batang Ai National Park

416-17Bukit Gemok Forest

Reserve 364Bukit Nanas Forest

Reserve 47Bukit Timah Nature

Reserve 494Cape Rachado Forest

Reserve 113, 114Danum Valley Conserva-

tion Area 9, 354-6, 8East Coast Park 489Endau-Rompin National

Park 239-41, 240Forestry Research

Institute of Malaysia (FRIM) 100

Fort Canning Park 481Gunung Gading National

Park 413-14Gunung Legan National

Park 235Gunung Mulu National

Park 438-44, 32, 503Gunung Stong State

Park 282Kenong Rimba State

Park 268-9Kinabalu National Park

13, 322-30, 323, 329, 13, 511

Kubah National Park 409-11

Kuching Wetlands National Park 406-7

Lambir Hills National Park 431-2

MacRitchie Reservoir 495

Matang Mangrove Forest Reserve 146-7

Mesilau Nature Resort 330-1

Niah National Park 429-31

Penang National Park 179-80

628

INDEX P

-R

parks & reserves continuedRoyal Belum State Park

147-8Similajau National Park

427-9Southern Ridges 495-6Tabin Wildlife Reserve

356-7Talang-Satang National

Park 415-17Taman Negara 12, 260-5,

261, 12Taman Negara Perlis

205-6Taman Wetland 104Tanjung Datu National

Park 415Tawau Hills Park 367Tunku Abdul Rahman

National Park 320-2Wind Cave Nature

Reserve 411-12Pasir Ris 491-3passports 600Pavilion KL 88Pekan 252-4, 253Pelabuhan Klang 106-7Pemanggil, Pulau 239Penan people 447Penan villages 452Penang 41, 149-82, 150,

see also George Townaccommodation 149architecture 156climate 149food 149, 76, 77highlights 150history 150-1travel seasons 149

Penang Butterfly Farm 180Penang Hill 157Penang Museum 155-6Penang National Park

179-80Penarik 300Penarik Firefly

Sanctuary 300Peradayan Forest Reserve

470Perak 40, 116-48, 117

accommodation 116climate 116food 116highlights 117history 118travel seasons 116

Peranakan Museum 477Peranakan people 564Perhentian, Pulau 9,

283-91, 284, 9Perhentian Museum 477Perlis 41, 204-6, 184

accommodation 183climate 183food 183highlights 184travel seasons 183

permits Kenong Rimba State

Park 269Kinabalu National Park

323-4Taman Negara 260Upper Rejang 422

Petaling Jaya 105-6Petronas Towers 55, 57, 81Petrosains 57pewtersmithing 59photography 596Pinang, Pulau, see PenangPinang Peranakan

Mansion 155Ping Anchorage 295planning, see also

individual regionsbudget 18, 471, 538,

592, 594calendar of events 22-3caving 33children, travel with 61,

593-4, 609-10diving 33-4food & dining 35-9internet resources 19itineraries 24-7, 53, 481,

24-7Malaysia, Singapore &

Brunei basics 18-19Malaysia, Singapore &

Brunei’s regions 40-3mountain climbing 31-3rock climbing 31-3snorkelling 33-4surfing 34travel seasons 18, 22-3trekking 29-30

politics 548-9, 550, 562-8, 566-7

Pom Pom 363population 548, 549-50Port Dickson 113-15Porta de Santiago 209, 212postal services, see also

individual locationsBrunei 465Malaysia 596

Singapore 540proboscis monkeys 345-6Protestant Cemetery 156public holidays

Brunei 471Malaysia 596Singapore 540-1

Publika 90Pudu Market 67Pulau Aur 239Pulau Banggi 336Pulau Besar (Johor) 237-8 Pulau Besar (Melaka)

225-6Pulau Carey 107Pulau Dayang 239Pulau Gaya 320Pulau Jerejak 180Pulau Kapas 293-4Pulau Lang Tengah 291-2Pulau Langkawi 10, 41,

185-200, 184, 186-7, 11accommodation 183,

192-6activities 185-90, 190-2climate 183drinking 198-9festivals & events 192food 183, 196-8highlights 184internet access 199internet resources 199medical services 199money 199shopping 199sights 185-90tourist information 199tours 190-2travel seasons 183travel to/from 199-200travel within 200

Pulau Lankayan 347-8Pulau Mantanani 336Pulau Manukan 320Pulau Pangkor 134-40,

135, 137Pulau Pemanggil 239Pulau Perhentian 9, 283-91,

284, 9Pulau Rawa 238-9Pulau Redang 292-3Pulau Sapi 320Pulau Satang 416Pulau Selirong 470Pulau Sibu 238Pulau Sipadan 6,

359-61, 3, 7Pulau Sulug 321Pulau Talang-Talang 416

Pulau Tinggi 238Pulau Tioman 14, 243-51,

244, 14accommodation 246-51diving & snorkelling

244-5drinking 246-51food 246-51walking 245-6

Pulau Ubin 494puppetry, shadow 575, 577Putrajaya 104-5

QQuays, the 477, 515-16, 520,

528, 533-4, 478-9

Rrabies 596, 607radio

Malaysia 593Singapore 540

Raffles, Stamford 554rafflesias 413-14, 510rafting 34, 32Rainforest World Music

Festival 23Raja, Mr 119Ramadan 36, 457Raptor Watch Festival 114Raub 269-70Rawa, Pulau 238-9Razak, Najib 560Redang, Pulau 292-3refunds 596Regatta Lepa 360religion 549, 552, 569-73reptiles, see individual

speciesreserves, see parks &

reserves, wildlife sanctuaries & reserves

resthouses 593rhinoceros, Sumatran 239,

506-7rice 580river cruises, see boat tripsRiver Safari 495Robertson Quay 477rock climbing 31-3, 349roti canai 38, 37Royal Abu Bakar Museum

229Royal Belum State Park

147-8Royal Pahang Polo Club

252rubber trees 140Map Pages 000

Photo Pages 000

629IN

DEX S SSabah 42, 304-78, 305

accommodation 304climate 304food 304highlights 305history 554-5travel seasons 304

safety 596-7, 603sailing 34Salang 248-9salt licks 448sambal 580Sandakan 337-43, 338Sandakan Archipelago

347-8Santubong Peninsula

404-6Sapi, Pulau 320Sapulot 371-2Sarawak 42, 379-453,

380-1accommodation 379climate 379food 379highlights 380-1history 382, 554-5travel seasons 379

Sarawak Cultural Village 404-5, 15

Satang, Pulau 416sculpture 485Sea Dayak (Iban) people

564Sekayu Falls 302Selangor 40, 97-115, 98

accommodation 97climate 97food 97highlights 98history 99travel seasons 97

Selirong, Pulau 470Sematan 414-15Semenggoh Nature

Reserve 407-8Semporna 357-9, 358Semporna Archipelago

359-63Sentosa Island 498-500,

518-19, 527, 530-1, 499Sepilok 343-7, 344Sepilok Orang-Utan

Rehabilitation Centre (SORC) 10, 343-4, 10, 504

Seremban 109-112, 110Seria 467-8Seribuat Archipelago 237-9

shadow puppetry 575, 577Shah Alam 106shopping 21, see

also malls, marketsarts & crafts 89, 90,

172-3batik 59, 89, 172, 250electronics 89fine art 90language 613

shrines 189-90siat 38Sibu, Pulau 238Sibu 417-21, 418Sibu Central Market 419silat (Malaysian martial

art) 576Similajau National Park

427-9Singamata 361Singapore 43, 473-546,

474-5, 492accommodation 473,

515-19, 537, 538activities 500, 512-13addresses 476budget 538business hours 537CBD 483-5, 520-2,

528-9, 482-3Chinatown 483-5, 516-17,

520-2, 528-9, 534-5, 482-3

climate 473Colonial District 476-83,

515-16, 519-20, 527-8, 533-4, 478-9

consulates 538courses 513culture 549-50customs regulations 537disabilities, travellers

with 541drinking 527-31electricity 538embassies 538emergencies 538entertainment 531-3festivals & events 514-15food 473, 488, 519-27,

538Geylang 489highlights 474-5history 476holidays 540-1internet access 538-9internet resources 537itineraries 481Kampong Glam 487-8,

524-5, 529, 535, 486

Katong 489-91language 615legal matters 539Little India 485-7, 517-18,

525, 529, 535, 486Marina Bay 476-83, 520,

533-4medical services 539money 539-40Mass Rapid Transit

(MRT) 546Orchard Road 488-9,

518, 526-7, 529-30, 535-6, 490

politics 567-8postal services 540Pulau Ubin 494Quays, the 477, 515-16,

520, 528, 533-4, 478-9

Sentosa Island 498-500, 518-19, 527, 530-1, 495

shopping 533-7sights 476-500teahouses 530telephone services 540Tiong Bahru 488tipping 540tourist information 541tours 513-14travel seasons 473travel to/from 541-4travel within 544-6visas 541walking tours 501, 501

Singapore Botanic Gardens 488-9

Singapore Hotel Association 515

Singapore Science Centre 497

Singapore Tourist Pass 546Singapore Zoo 17, 493, 17Singlish 615Sipadan, Pulau 6, 359-

61, 3, 7Sleeping Buddha Cave 258Snake Temple 181snakes 609, 12snorkelling 9, 28, see

also divingLayang Layang 336-7planning 33-4Pulau Kapas 293-4Pulau Langkawi 190-1Pulau Mantanani 336Pulau Manukan 320Pulau Pangkor 136Pulau Perhentian 9,

283-5

Pulau Redang 292-3Pulau Tioman 244-5Semporna Archipelago

359-61Sipadan 359-61

Songs of the Sea 498-9spas, see also hot springs

Kuala Lumpur 58, 60Melaka City 216Pulau Langkawi 187,

188-9Singapore 512

spelunking, see cavingsquirrels 245, 328Sri Mahamariamman

Temple 51Sri Mariamman Temple

(George Town) 156-7Sri Mariamman Temple

(Singapore) 484, 2-3Sri Menanti 112Sri Poyatha Venayagar

Moorthi Temple 214Sri Raja Mariamman

Devasthanam 229Sri Veeramakaliamman

Temple 485St Paul’s Church 212St Peter’s Church 215Stadthuys 209State Art Gallery 202state parks, see parks &

reservesStepping Stone Cave 282Suffolk House 159Sultan Abdul Samad

Building 52Sultan Abdullah Mosque

252Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque

229Sultan Mosque 487Sultanate Palace 212Sulug, Pulau 321Sumatran rhinoceros 239,

506-7Sungai Kinabatangan

348-53sup torpedo 38surfing 34

Cherating 257Juara 249Teluk Chempedak 257

sustainable travelaccommodation 300,

335, 351, 356, 436food 314sights 343-4tour operators 295, 311

swans 419

630

INDEX S

-W

sweets 395, 582swimming holes

Endau-Rompin National Park 240

Pulau Tioman 246Taman Negara 262

Sze Ya Temple 52, 16

TTabin Wildlife Reserve 356-7Taiping 142-6, 143, 144Talang-Satang National

Park 415-17Talang-Talang, Pulau 416Taman Alam Kuala

Selangor Nature Park 108

Taman Mini Malaysia/Asean 225

Taman Negara 12, 260-5, 261, 12

Taman Negara Perlis 205-6Tanah Rata 129-33, 131Tanjung Bidara 226Tanjung Datu National

Park 415Tanjung Tuan Forest

Reserve 113Taoism 570-1tapir 269Tarawe, John 446Tasik Chini 252, 588Tasik Kenyir 301-3Tatt Khalsa Diwan

Gurdwara 57Tawau 363-7, 364Tawau Hills Park 367taxes 596taxis, long-distance 604tea drinking 583tea plantations

Boh Sungei Palas Tea Estate 127, 13

Cameron Bharat Tea Plantation 127

teahouses 530Tekek 246-7Telaga Tujuh 193telephone services 19

Malaysia 597Singapore 540

Teluk Bahang 179-80Teluk Chempedak 257Teluk Kumbar 182Teluk Nipah 136-7, 137

Temburong District 468-72Temerloh 270, 271temples

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple 484

Cheng Hoon Teng Temple 214

Hainan Temple 155Kek Lok Si Temple 157-8Kuan Yin Teng 154Lei Shen Gong Buddhist

Temple 252Liesheng Temple 110-11Mariamnan Hindu

Temple 252Sam Poh Temple 127Sri Mahamariamman

Temple 51Sri Mariamman Temple

(George Town) 156-7Sri Mariamman Temple

(Singapore) 484, 2-3Sri Poyatha Venayagar

Moorthi Temple 214Sri Raja Mariamman

Devasthanam 229Sri Tehndayuthapany

Swamy 129Sri Veeramakaliamman

Temple 485Sze Ya Temple 52, 16Tatt Khalsa Diwan

Gurdwara 57Thean Hou Temple 58Thian Hock Keng Temple

484-5Tumpat temple district

281-2Wat Siam Nikrodharam

202Temurun Waterfall 188Teochew Temple 158Terengganu 294-303,

274-5accommodation 272climate 272food 272highlights 274-5travel seasons 272

Terrapuri Heritage Village 300

Thaipusam 22, 99, 571, 17Thean Hou Temple 58theatre 575-6theme parks

A’Famosa Resort 225-6Genting Highlands 101Taman Mini Malaysia/

Asean 225Underwater World (Pulau

Langkawi) 185-6

Underwater World (Sentosa Island) 498

Universal Studios 498Thian Hock Keng Temple

484-5tigers 239, 17, 505time 541, 597Tinggi, Pulau 238Tioman, Pulau 14, 243-51,

244, 14accommodation 246-51diving & snorkelling

244-5drinking 246-51food 246-51walking 245-6

Tiong Bahru 488Titiwangsa 58, 59toilets 541, 597tourist information,

see also individual destinations

Malaysia 597-8Singapore 541

tours 604adventure 60Cameron Highlands 129fishing 257food 60George Town 159-60Kuala Lumpur 60Singapore 513-14walking 144, 161, 144,

161train travel

Malaysia 604-5Singapore 542-3

travel to/from Brunei 465-6

travel to/from Malaysia 600-1

travel to/from Singapore 541-4

travel with children 61, 593-4, 609-10

travel within Malaysia 601-5

travel within Singapore 544-6

travellers cheques 596TreeTops Lodge 436trekking 12, 28, see

also walkingCameron Highlands 130Cape Rachado

Forest Reserve 113Danum Valley Conserva-

tion Area 9, 355Endau-Rompin National

Park 239-41, 240

Gunung Bengoh 412-13Gunung Mulu

Summit 442Gunung Santubong 405Hidden Valley (Lost

World) 412-13Kelabit Highlands 12,

448-51Kinabalu National Park

325-7, 327-8Maliau Basin Conserva-

tion Area 367-8Penan villages 452planning 29-30Pulau Perhentian 285Sungai Kinabatangan

350Taman Negara 261-2Tasik Chini 252, 588Tringgus Bong 412-13

Tringgus 412-13trishaws 225, 546Tuaran 333Tumpat temple district

281-2Tun Abdul Razak Heritage

Park (Lake Gardens Park) 54-5

Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park 320-2

turtles 257-8, 347, 359, 3, 509

Tutong 467Tutong District 467-8TV

Malaysia 593Singapore 540

typhoid 607

UUbin, Pulau 494Ulu Temburong National

Park 470-2Underwater World (Pulau

Langkawi) 185-6Underwater World (Sentosa

Island) 498Unesco World Heritage Site

(Penang) 156United Malays National

Organisation (UMNO) 556-7

Universal Studios 498Urban Village 55

Vvacations

Brunei 471Malaysia 596Singpore 540-1

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

631IN

DEX W-Z

vaccinations 606vegetarian & vegan

travellers 39Villa Sentosa 215visas 19, see also

passportsBrunei 471Malaysia 598Singapore 541

volunteering 411, 416, 598

Wwalking, see also trekking

Bako National Park 402Kinabalu National Park

327-8Pulau Perhentian 285Pulau Tioman 245-6Southern Ridges 495-6Taman Negara 261-2Teluk Chempedak 257

walking toursGeorge Town 161, 161Singapore 501Taiping 144, 144

Wat Siam Nikrodharam 202

water, drinking 607waterfalls

Asah Waterfall 246Chiling Waterfall 101

Durian Perangin 188Endau-Rompin National

Park 240Maliau Basin Conserva-

tion Area 367-8Sekayu Falls 302Tasik Chini 252, 588Temurun Waterfall 188

wayang kulit (shadow-puppet performances) 575

weather 18, 22-3, 594, see also individual regions

Brunei 454Malaysia 594Singapore 473

weaving 577Weber, Birgit 287websites, see internet

resourcesweights

Malaysia 593Singapore 540

Western Sarawak 400-17white-water rafting 34, 32wildlife, see individual spe-

cies, wildlife sanctuar-ies & reserves, zoos

wildlife sanctuaries & reserves

Borneo Sun Bear Conservation Centre 344-5

Butterfly Park 55Cherating Turtle

Sanctuary 258Deer Park 55KL Bird Park 53Kuala Gandah Elephant

Conservation Centre 270-1

Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary 345-6

Matang Wildlife Centre 410-11

Penarik Firefly Sanctuary 300

Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Centre (SORC) 10, 343-4, 10, 504

Tabin Wildlife Reserve 356-7

Taman Alam Kuala Selangor Nature Park 108

wildlife watching 29, 401-2, 407-8, see also birdwatching

Wind Cave Nature Reserve 411-12

women travellersBrunei 471Malaysia 599Singapore 541

women’s health 610women’s rights 567woodcarving 577work 599WWII 556WWII Kranji War

Memorial 495

Yyachting 34Yap Kongsi 158yoga

George Town 159Kuala Lumpur 58Singapore 513

ZZoo Negara (National

Zoo) 100zoos, see also wildlife

sanctuaries & reservesDeerland 271Melaka Zoo 225Singapore Zoo 17, 493, 17Zoo Negara (National

Zoo) 100Zoo Taiping & Night

Safari 142

618618

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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Akke Albada, Pascal Amez-Droz, Jack Arnold, Caroline Atkins B Ralph Bain, Caroline Baroud, Stephan Bauer, Adrian Bea-dles, Wendy Bell, Peter Berende, Jaimeson Bilodeau, Louise Blais, Gert Blockx, Stephen Bonsall, Patricia Bosch, Andrea Brimelow, Colin Bussey C Benjamin Carson, Kathryn Clarkson, Russell Clegg, Lucy Crane D Thu Danh, Lola Danlos, Owen Davies, Russell Donald, Alynda de Fluiter, Niels de Fluiter, Merijn de Veer, Bradley Draper E Michael Joseph Edwards, Michelle Elphinstone, Caro-line Evans, Linda Evans F Wibo Feenstra, Paul Ferris, David Fletcher G Marc Glaude-mans, Noel Gokel, Pilar Alvarez Gonzalez, Dan Gosser, Denise Groeneweg H Anna Hames, Janette Hartwig, Christian Hochleitner, Serge Hoffmann, Marjolein Hofman-Jonkers, Alan Holden, Wouter Hoogenraad, Van Havere Johnno J Sinead Joyce K Denis Kearney, Mohanan Kesavan, Ken Khor, Giel Klanker, Annerieke Kroon, Reto Krummenacher, Diana Kuan, Suzanne Kuiper L Tim Laslavic, Cher Chua Lassalvy, Jenny Leak, Si Poh Liang, Maud Loonen M Bevis Man, Emily Mannes, Jean-Paul Marchetti, Andrena McNabb, Ursa

Mekis, Vijay Anand Mohan, Heather Mo-nell, Daniel Moore, Willemijn Mors, Sahane Muftuoglu, Nerissa Murphy N Klemen Naversnik, Anthony Ng O Petra O’Neill, Steve Oxlade P Alan Pails, Juan Pinto, Yuri Ponjee, Havana Poole, Florian Poppe, Patrick Post, Ian Prescott, Torben Prokscha R Cindy Rimmington, Andrée-anne Rob-erge, David Robertson, Ian Ross, Rick Ross, Helen Rudd, Shyam Rupani S Meg Sat-terthwaite, Ray Sinniger, Hari Sriskantha, Bob Simon, Eric Sivignon, Bettina Schömig, Barney Smith, Larry Stagg, Bart Steegmans, Maartje Sterk, Klaus Suemmerer T Mary Tan, Rachael Tan, Isla Tasker, Chris Sonja Thurnherr, Tranter, Bjorn Trompet, Kay Turner U Mark Uleman V Patricia Vacano, Paco van de Ven, Claudia van Dongen, Martijn van Tol, Lennart van Vliet, Maurice Varkevisser, Erik Vermeulen, Yvonne Verburgh-Laurense, Peter Voelger, Sabina Vogt W Catherine Waters, Carl Wagner, Esther Wapstra, Michael Weilguni, Katie Wenigmann, Jonas Wernli, Katrien Wuyts Y Kim Chan Yap, Peter Young Z Adrienne Zinn, Elie Zwiebel

AUTHOR THANKS Simon RichmondTerima kasih to the great team of coauthors and to Ilaria for support from LP HQ. In Ma-laysia, many thanks to Alex Yong, Nani Kahar,

Behind the Scenes

619BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

Peter Kiernan, Andrew Sebastian, Claudia Low, David Hogan Jr, Narelle McMurtrie, Chris Bauer, Eddy Chew, Adly Rizal, Karl Steinberg, Chris Ong. And to Neil for blissful company and encouraging me to capture the Malaysia I love through art as well as words.

Cristian BonettoA heartfelt xièxie to Jasmine Chai, Ally Wong, Walter Cheng Eng Teck, Mark Chng, Wayne Soon and Ian Chong for their incredible generosity and insight. Many thanks also to Ilaria Walker, Alvin Jin Tan, Yu Ying Cheng and Mary-Ann Gardner.

Celeste BrashThanks to Shannon Bryant for staying with me throughout and at the hospital. To Peck Choo Ho and Brandon Tan for beyond-wonderful help, support and friendship; Richard Abraham for Johor stuff; Maryanne Netto for contacts and *sob* no chicken rice; Mani and Raymond; Dr Wan and the Endau-Rompin office. Ilaria and Simon, terima kasih for being awesome. As always, huge thanks to my family for letting me be me.

Joshua Samuel BrownThanks to my old chum Astrid P for being a most excellent travel companion for part of the research phase, Lauren Q for being half the team that steered us in circles around Pulau Kapas, and motorcycle guide extraor-dinaire Ronnie V for not getting me killed in Pahang. As always, thanks to Phil and Tammy at Pristine (Taiwan), and special thanks to Marina at Kibbutz Bardo in Taipei for giving me a space to call home before and after the journey.

Austin BushThanks to talented LPers Ilaria Walker and Bruce Evans, my ever-roving coauthors, and the kind folks on the ground in Malaysia in-cluding Ahmad, Zac Chan, Robyn Eckhardt, Nazlina Hussin, Teong Ong Jin, Joann Khaw, Steve Khong, Mark Lay, Djohan Lee, Bee Yinn and CK Low, Narelle McMurtrie, Chris Ong, Wanida Razali, Khoo Salma, Simon and Rachel Tan, Stan and Pat Woolliscroft, and Jek Yap.

Adam KarlinTerima kasih: Katie King, rock-star contact who redefines break dancing; the people who gave me insight, Charlie Ryan, Jessica

Yew, Tom, Joel, Silas and Howard (I’m greatly privileged to have met you, and to have had the opportunity to explore your island with you); Angelica, the baddest-ass bartender in Oakland, thanks for the laughs; Alex Za-wadzki, Daniele Cohen, Serge, Johnny and the rest, your company was always hilarious; Mom and Dad, thanks for your constant sup-port; and Rachel, for your love, and your voice every morning and evening when I’m away.

Daniel RobinsonScores of people went out of their way to make this a better book, but I’m especially indebted to Amélie Blanc; Borbala Nyiri; Donald and Marina Tan; Eric and Annie Yap; Jacqueline Fong; Jo-Lynn Liao; Kelvin Egay; Polycarp; Mathew Ngau Jau; Philip Yong; Thomas Ulrich and Vernon Kedit (Kuching); Jessie, Noriza and Peter Tiong (Sibu); Paul Chuo; Sandra Kromdijk; Vincent Tiong and Wouter Mullink (Kapit); Camille de Kerchove; Captain David (Bennet); Elyn Chan and family, and Mrs Lee (Miri); Amy McGoldrick; Antonella Mori; Helen van Lindere; Jeremy Clark; Peter Hogge and my guides Bian Ru-mai, Esther Abu, Jeffry Simun, Susan Pulut and Syria Lejau (Gunung Mulu National Park); Apoi Ngimat; Jaman Riboh; Joanna Joy; Rebita Lupong; Rian John Pasan La-mulun; Stephen and Tine, and Stu Roach (Bario); Mr Lim (Chong Teah); Mr Chua (Eng Hin) and Ferdinand Gibson (Limbang); the dedicated staff of Sarawak’s national parks; Glenn van Zutphen; Leonard Koh; Michelle Elias Solomon and Seng Beng Yeo and their families (Singapore); and, finally, my beloved wife Rachel Safman, our son Yair Lev and my mother-in-law Edie Safman (Los Angeles).

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.

Integrated Transit Network of Kuala Lumpur Map © 2012 Tourism Malaysia

Cover photograph: View over the Bharat Tea Estate, Cameron Highlands, Perak, Ross Barnett/Getty/Lonely Planet Images

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THIS BOOK Tony and Maureen Wheeler first researched Malaysia in 1973 when writing the book that started it all, Across Asia on the Cheap. Since then, many Lonely Planet authors have followed in their sandalled footsteps to make sure travel-lers get the most out of this wild region’s idyllic beaches, spicy fusion cuisine and stunning colonial architecture. This 12th edition of Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei was re-searched and written by some of Lonely Planet’s finest. Ma-laysia guru and veteran coordi-nating author Simon Richmond researched Kuala Lumpur, Selangor and Negeri Sembilan and led a star-studded team of travel writers: Cristian Bonetto, Celeste Brash, Austin Bush,

Joshua Samuel Brown, Adam Karlin and Daniel Robinson. The Health chapter was based on research supplied by Dr Trish Batchelor. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Ilaria WalkerCoordinating Editor Mardi O’ConnorCoordinating Cartographer Alex LeungCoordinating Layout Designer Lauren EganManaging Editors Barbara Delissen, Bruce EvansSenior Editor Andi JonesManaging Cartographers Adrian Persoglia, Anthony Phelan, Diana von HoldtManaging Layout Designer Chris Girdler

Assisting Editors Jenna Myers, Karyn Noble, Ross Tay-lor, Gina Tsarouhas, Fionnuala Twomey, Jeanette WallAssisting Cartographers Mick Garrett, Jolyn Philcox, Samantha TysonAssisting Layout Designers Yvonne Bischofberger, Nicholas Colicchia, Kerrianne SouthwayCover Research Naomi ParkerInternal Image Research Aude VauconsantLanguage Content Branis-lava VladisavljevicThanks to Dan Austin, Sasha Baskett, Laura Crawford, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Jane Hart, Jouve India, Asha Ioculari, Tobias Gattineau, Kate McDonell, Catherine Naghten, Trent Paton, Raphael Richards, Dianne Schallmeiner, Laura Stansfeld, Gerard Walker

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