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 ASHINA MANCHANDA PARIJAT GUPTA MFM (2010-12)

INDIAN Sarees Final

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  ASHINA MANCHANDA

PARIJAT GUPTA

MFM (2010-12)

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What is a saree ? History of sarees

Sarees from different regions of India

Draping sarees Fabrics used in sarees

Saree innovations

Importance of silk weaving of Assam

Conclusion

References

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The word saree has been taken from the prakritword ´sattikaµ

 A Sari is an unstitched and uncut piece of fabricthat is available in a variety of lengths, colors,designs and fabric

The fabric ranges in size, anywhere between 5

to 9.5 yards that is loosely tied, folded andpleated

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Origin obscure

Thought to be more than 5,000 years old, when cotton was first woven into pieces of fabric

Idea of beauty in Ancient India was that of a small waist, large bust and hips

The Sari seemed to be the perfect dress to accentuate thoseproportions

Clothing patterns have changed throughout the world,

 but the Sari has survived is the main piece of clothing women in rural India wear even

today 

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Rajasthan:BandhaniKota Doria

MaharashtraPaithani

GujaratPatola

Tanchoi

Madhya PradeshChanderiMaheshwari

Uttar Pradesh

Banaras Brocade

Chikan

Tamil Nadu

Kanjeevaram

Andhra Pradesh

Gadwal

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OrissaIkatBomkaiBandha

Pasapalli

West BengalTangail and tantBaluchari

Dhonekhali

KarnatakaKornadu

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Location: Jaipur , Sikar. Rajasthan

Production : Tying and Dyeing

Colour Combination: Two contrasting colours with a

border and a central medallion called ´Pomchaµ/´Padmaµ (lotus flower)

Fabric: Cotton, Georgette, Crepe etc

Characteristics: Handmade saree with embroidery

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Location: Kota, Rajasthan

Fabric: Cotton or Cotton silk combination

Patterns: Gauges of yarn creating graph like pattern

called ´Khatsµ (chequered weave) Design: Narrow border with Zari work

Characteristic: Finest weave and light weight

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Location: Aurangabad, Yeola. Maharashtra

Fabric: Fine quality Silk

Designs: Intricate designs made with zari threads

drawn from pure gold Motifs: Kamal (lotus), Hans (swan), Ashraffi or Aswalli

(flowering vines)

Colours: Bright colours like yellow, magenta, lavender

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Location: Gujarat

Designs: Intricate five colour design resist-dyed intoboth warp and weft threads

Production: threads of warp and weft are dyedseparately

Motifs: Floral motifs set in geometric order

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Location: Surat, Gujarat

Fabric: Different varieties of Silk

Origin: China from where the weaving style has been

copied Colours: Elusive and subtle colours

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Location: Madhya Pradesh

Fabric: Silk and fine cotton

Patterns: Gold checks with lotus roundels called butis,

inspired from the chanderi temples Design: Rich gold border and two gold bands on the

´palluµ

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Location: Madhya Pradesh

Designs: Different cheques known as gungi, pakhi,pupli, dowra and chandtara etc

Fabric: Cotton yarn and twisted silk Patterns: Either chequered or plain or has stripes, with

complementary colours

Motifs: Variety of leaves or flowers on the border

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Location: Banaras, Uttar Pradesh

Fabric: Banaras Silk

Also known as tishu, jangla, butidar etc

Production: Gold and silver threads thrust as weft orwarp creating glittering ornamentation

Designs: Intricate intertwining of floral and foliatemotifs, kalga and bel

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Location: Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh

The word chikan means embroidery

Design: Tiny raised flower balanced by flat stem stitch

Patterns: Lace like ´jaliµ, opaque fillings and delicate orbold outlines

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Location: Tamil Nadu

Characteristics: Gold dipped silver thread woven in thefabric

Fabric: All kinds of silks Motifs: Peacock and Parrot motifs are most common

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Location: Gadwal, Andhra Pradesh

Fabric: Body made of cotton and pallu from silk

Production: Woven using interlock weft technique

Design: Embroidery done using threads coated withgold or copper

Motifs: Mango motif on the borders

Colour: Yellow, Parrot green, Pink and beige

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Location: Shantipur, Dhanaikhali, Bagampur,Farasdanga

Characteristics: Comfortable and elegant

Motifs: Plain or dotted Motifs (Hajar Buti)

Patterns: Tiny and repetitive giving the look ofembroidery

Fabric: Cotton or silk

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Location: Baluchar, Murshidabad district, West Bengal

Fabric: All kinds of silk

Patterns: Blocks or Square pattern of any animal or

bird Characteristics: Lightweight and glamorous

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Location: Shantipur, Fulia, West Bengal

Motifs: Birds, animals, or nature on the body

Patterns: Base of the saree comprises of horizontal or

vertical checks Characteristics: Meant for regular use/daily wear

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Location: Karnataka

Fabric: Mixture of cotton and silk

Colour: cotton is usually in blue and silk in any colour

other than blue Characteristics:One colour body with an ornate pallu

Design: Stripes or checks in the same or contrastingcolours

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TRADITIONALWAY: Step 1: At the navel, tuck the plain end of the saree into

the petticoat and continue tucking till you take acomplete turn from right to left.

Step 2: Hold the top edge of the saree where the palluis and bring it around your hips to the front and overyour left shoulder

Step 3: Create Hold the top edge of the saree where the

pallu is and bring it around your hips to the front andover your left shoulder

Step 4: Remaining portion of the saree must be turnedonce around the body and then draped over the leftshoulder

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Georgette: made up of nylon and polyester. soft anddelicate texture. Has intricate designs

Chiffon: symbol of elegance and firmness. of varietiesof prints and embroideries like block prints, bandhanistyle etc

Crepe: major attraction is simplicity and sobriety. It isa light fabric woven in silk

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Mysore crepe silk: Silk is an evergreen fashion fabric.

There is an exquisite range in silk sari fromKanjeevaram to Patola, Banarasi and Mysore silk. Thisfabric needs extra care. Silk saris with zari work arefound in abundance

Other categories: Linen, Velvet, Satin, Organza, Lizi-

Bizi, Crush and many other cool fabrics.

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The saree shirt combination: Known as ¶Jodi Pattu·.Saree with a matching shirt piece, which is meant forthe lady·s husband. The saree has a beautifulembroidered pallu and matching embroidery is doneon the shirt piece too.

The colour changing saree: When the wearer of thesaree moves out of her home, the color of the sareechanges. First of its kind.

The durbar krishna saree: This saree depicts a famouspicture of Lord Krishna in the pallu, in whichSwarowski crystals have also been used.

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The zip-n-wear saree: This is a saree with four differentbut matching pallus. Each of these pallus have anattached zip. The wearer of the saree can easily detachone pallu and attach another

The pocket saree: This saree has a pocket, which canhold a cell phone and other small items.

The landscape saree: This saree is made of pure silkand the design of a rural landscape is woven into thepallu.

The denim saree: It is a pure silk saree that gives thelook of denim, at the same time retaining the soft feelof silk.

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The 5000 colour saree: It is the concept of a saree thathas 5000 colours

Reversible saree: This saree has been designed in sucha way that it can be worn in four different ways. Thereare two different body colors and four different pallus

The zodiac saree: Contains 12 silk sarees. Each of thesesarees has the symbol of a zodiac sign woven into thepallu.

The Jugalbandi saree: It combines two totally differentconcepts. North Indian work like kundan and beadwork or Parsi embroidery is done on pure South Indiansilk sarees.

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The hamsa damyanthi: silk saree in which the famouspainting of Raja Ravi Varma is woven into the pallu. 26

different shades are reflected in the saree

Romantica saree: These sarees are made of silk, but arestretchable. They are available in various pastel shades

The 108 karnas saree: This is a pure silk saree with the108 Karnas i.e. the 108 different poses of Bharatnatyamwoven into the pallu.

The aiswarya pookal saree: different flower designshave been woven into the pallu of this saree

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The handbag saree: This is a saree made of pure silkthat comes with a matching handbag

The kolangal saree: Kolangal· means ¶Rangoli· inTamil. The Kolangal sarees have different traditionalforms of Rangoli woven into their pallu

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Assam is the home of traditional sarees

Famous for silk handloom and weavers expertise in

various types of silk- endi, muga etc

´Mugaµ or golden silk is the most superior form of silkavailable in the world

Another specialty of this region is the bamboo weftdesigns which are 8 in number and used as variationsin the weaving pattern

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India is a country of diversities. Most of the regionshave their own special types of saree

The popularity of the saree as routine wear is declining

in India. However, saree is the dress of choice inmarriages and other social occasions

The new innovations in sarees help in increasing thepopularity of the sarees and attract the youngergeneration

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http://www.puja.com/sari/hstry/hstry.htm#

http://www.devi.net/shakti/exhibit/cadrex1.html

http://www.kamat.com/kalranga/art/kasuti.htm

http://www.ikkat.com/sareeinfo.aspx http://www.answers.com/topic/sari-1

http://nitawriter.wordpress.com/2007/02/23/411/

http://edhelper.com/ReadingComprehension_42 _68.html

http://countries.mrdonn.org/india.html

http://www.historyforkids.org/learn/india/

http://www devi net/shakti/sari/expo html