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DIY DOCTOR GREEN LIVING COWBOY CONTROL FIND TRADESMEN
USEFUL ITEMS
FIND TRADESMEN
TOP TOOLS
Get the tools to complete
your DIY project below
ABB MCB, S200M SeriesType C, 16A, Single
Pole, 253V
Crabtree ConsumerUnit, Starbreaker. 13
Ways, 63A(RCCB)
Crabtree MCB, Type B,32A, Single Pole, 240V
AC
Crabtree Metalclad RCDSafety Socket, Lifestar,Switched, Twin Gang,DP, 13A, /w Neon &
30mA Trip
Installing A Consumer Unit http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/consumer_unit.htm
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WELCOME TO OUR CONSUMER UNIT PROJECTThis project is presented by www.neweysonline.co.uk - Quick Click: JOB DONE!
Summary: Consumer Unit. Installing a consumer unit. Consumer unit explained
Please also see our project on the New Wiring and Cable Colours.
Click on books to buy and scroll down for tools and equipment
All cables and connections to the consumer unit must be checked and tested by a qualified electrician. Do not
attempt removal or replacement unless you are you are qualified to Part P regulation standards.. It is also an offence
to interfere with the seals on the electricity meter.
Please see our project on PART P BUILDING REGULATIONS for information on DIY Electrical Installation.
The modern is the centre, or heart, of the wiring system in the home. The unit distributes the
electricity, via fuses of one kind or another, to the different circuits in the house. The older fuse wires are being
replaced gradually by their modern equivalent, the MCB or miniature circuit breaker.
We will deal with the two main types of consumer unit found in the home today . The first one is a single load fuse
board where the power coming in is taken through a double pole switch to a live bus bar. Each fuse, or MCB, is
clipped onto a DIN bar and the "teeth" of the bus bar are inserted into the MCB's. The cables to the house circuits
are connected to the other side of the MCB's. All of this is explained more thoroughly when we deal with the second
type of unit, which is the split load unit. The photographs are of a split load fuse board. The ordinary consumer unit is
exactly the same in principle without the RCD.
Just as a matter of interest, DIN stands for Deutsche Industrie Norm and, originating in Germany, is any of a series
of technical standards, used Internationally, to designate electrical connections, film speeds and paper sizes. Shown
in the consumer unit casing above, it is a metal, pressed bar, to which the MCB's clip. They simply push on via a
spring loaded lock at their back.
A split load board is designed for total safety and incorporates an RCD (Residual Current Device, shown as E in the
picture above) as well as the double pole switch (D). The split board shown here has one RCD and is a simple version
to show the user how the board works.
The RCD is not just a manually operated isolating switch, but a very sensitive safety device which cuts
off in fractions of a second if it senses an earth fault. RCDs can be bought in different current ratings
and various sensitivities to current leakage. It also detects any imbalance between Live and Neutral
conductors which is essential for Class 2 double insulated equipment. You will need to check which
ratings are appropriate for your home.
As they are very sensitive, it is not practical to fit one RCD to protect the whole house. If a fault develops on one
circuit, all circuits would be switched off immediately...This would, most often, leave you in the unnecessary position
of having no lights or power. Because of this it actually contravenes the most recent (16th Edition) wiring
Electrical Safety
Requirements In
Dwellings
Electrical Conductivity To
Elevated Floor
Which Electric Cables To
Use Around The Home
How To Extend A Ring
Main From The Consumer
Unit
How To Wire A Lighting
Circuit From The
Consumer Unit
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Installing A Consumer Unit http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/consumer_unit.htm
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regulations. This is easily prevented by using an RCD in conjunction with a main, double pole isolating switch so that
it protects only some of the more vulnerable circuits. This then becomes a split load consumer unit and is shown
above. The key to this photo is..
A: Neutral terminal block for the main isolating switch side of the unit.
B: Neutral terminal block for RCD side of the unit
C: Earth terminal block (takes both sides of unit)
D: Main double pole isolating switch.
E: Generally 80 - 100 Amp RCD with 30mA (milliamp) sensitivity.
F: Neutral link cable from Main switch to terminal block
G: Live feed from main switch to RCD.
H: Neutral link cable from main terminal block to RCD
I: Neutral link cable from RCD to RCD neutral terminal block.
The use of RCDs is necessary, on two occasions, to meet the wiring regulations. The first of these is to protect any
socket which may be reasonably expected to supply equipment outside the house (Strimmers, lawn mowers, hedge
trimmers, pond pumps, sheds, lights etc etc). This rule pretty much covers every single socket in the house so the
ring main should be placed on the RCD protected side of the consumer unit.
RCDs have a test button which creates an earth leak with a resistor, and it is usually recommended that they are
tested once a month. An information label near the consumer unit explains this The resistor passes more current
than that required for tripping, and the duration of the test is not limited, so testing in this way does not provide
proof that the unit is working to specification. RCDs can also be switched off manually and can take the place of the
isolator switch in the consumer unit, if they break live and neutral.
The second condition applies to any circuits where an earth fault current is not sufficient to blow the fuse, or trip the
switch, in the designated time allowance made in the regulations. This generally applies to higher Amp rated
appliances (showers, cookers etc) but it should always be checked with an electrician as to which circuits need to be
placed on the RCD side of the consumer unit.
The Current ratings which MCBs are designated to deal with are now conforming to the international equivalent of our
old imperial ratings. This standard is called the Renard current rating and supercedes the imperial ratings as far as
MCBs are concerned. A 5 amp fuse can be replaced with a 6 amp MCB. A 15 amp fuse becomes a 16 amp MCB, a 20
amp fuse can be a 20 amp MCB, 30 amp fuse = 32 amp MCB and a 45 amp fuse must now be a 40 amp MCB.
Top left shows the mains double pole isolating switch and an MCB clipped into place on the DIN bar. Top right shows
two MCBs and the bus bar. When the MCBs are clipped onto the DIN bar, the bus bar is inserted into the live
terminal at the bottom of the MCB. When screwed tight this gives live feed to all the MCBs.
Installing A Consumer Unit http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/consumer_unit.htm
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Top left shows the live (K) and neutral (J) coming into the main double pole switch from the meter. These cables are
called tails, and in this instance, with this type of unit, are 16mm cables. This will vary and you should always check
with a qualified electrician. Top left shows the earth cable from the meter (L). This screws into the earth terminal
block.
Installing A Consumer Unit http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/consumer_unit.htm
4 of 6 04/11/2011 03:55
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Electrical Safety Requirements In Dwellings
Electrical Conductivity To Elevated Floor
Which Electric Cables To Use Around The Home
How To Extend A Ring Main From The Consumer
Unit
How To Wire A Lighting Circuit From The
Consumer Unit
Other Useful Projects
Top right of the above image shows how a circuit cable is introduced to the unit. In this case it is a 2.5mm cable for
the ring main. The live (O) is fixed into the top of an MCB on the RCD side of the unit, while the neutral (M) goes to
the RCD neutral terminal block. The earth (N*) (which has been left unsheathed for clarity ). Each circuit cable is fed
into the consumer unit and connected to an MCB of the appropriate rating.
For all manner of electrical goods and components for both domestic and trade use visit Neweys Online
For regulations governing heights of sockets etc, please click here
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