Installing Bay, Bow and Garden Windows · 2017. 9. 25. · Installing Bay or Bow Windows As with any replacement, accurate measurement is the key to a simple and successful installation

WEB BASEDAPPLICATION SPECIFIC INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Installing Bay, Bowand Garden Windows

Although all possible measures have been taken to insure the accuracy of the material presented, WIXSYS, and the author are not liable and do not assume any liability in case

of misinterpretation of directions, misapplication, improper installation, or typographical error.

One of the pleasant options available when youreplace your old windows is the opportunity to put in a more decorative window than the one you areremoving. The most popular of the up-grade windowsare the Bay, Bow, or Garden Window.

Bay Window A Bay Window has three glass units - usually twooperating on the side of one fixed in the center. TheBay Window can have double-hung or casement win-dows for the operating units and a picture window for the fixed center unit. The two operating units areusually at a 30 degree, 45 degree, or 90 degree angleto the wall of the house, and the center fixed unit isusually larger than the two flanking operating units.

Bow Window A Bow Window has three or more, up to 5, glassunits of the same size and two or more of them are operating units. In fact, all the units can be operating. Bow Window units form a gentle curvesince each unit is usually only angled at 10 degreesfrom the adjacent window unit.

Garden Window Garden Windows are similar to a 90 degree BayWindow but have a sloped roof of glass, and can havethe front panel operate as well as the two side units.

Each Bay and Bow Window is factory assembledwith a structural, (1" or thicker) weathertight laminated headboard, seat board, and side panels.

Garden Windows have the seat board and sidepanels but with the glass roof panel, there is noneed for a headboard.

Because they are factory pre-assembled, they can bemounted as a unit. However, they usually cannot beinstalled to the blindstop as in other vinyl windowproducts. Installation can only be done by removingthe old window frame along with the old sash.

Once the old frame is removed, the Bay or BowWindow can be custom made to any size. It is struc-turally integrated, and can be placed in the openingwithout making any major changes to theopening.

Installing Bay, Bow,and Garden Windows

WIXSYS On-Line Installation Instructions © 2015-2016 AWDI, LLC Do not reproduce without permission

Custom-sized Garden Windows can replace any standard window.

Projection & Seat DepthIt is helpful to determine the distance a Bay or BowWindow will extend from the house and how deep theseat board will be. The following charts and illustra-tions will help you determine the approximate dis-tances of projection and seat board depth. They mayvary by a small amount and are meant as an esti-mate only.

Bay Window ProjectionsBay Windows usually are three windows only. Theconfiguration can consist of a picture window flankedby two operable double-hungs or casements, or thecenter unit can also be operable. Bay Windows comein two standard angles of 30° and 45°.

The following diagrams and chart show relative val-ues of the dimensions for the assembled Bay Windowassuming a standard Side Board Depth of 6"

NOTE: Center Window Factor: Deduct Factor fromtotal Bay Width to determine Center Window Size.

Garden Window Projections

Garden Windows are ordered from the factory tostandards determined by the manufacturer. Check with the dealer for the projection and sidedimensions for a given height and width.

Bow Window Projections

The Standard Bow consists of 3, 4 or 5 lites, connect-ed by 10 degree angle mullions. The opening widthsare shown with approximate projections.

Opening Number Approximate Width of Lites Projection & Seat Depth

48” - 60” 3 3”61” - 65” 3 3 1/2”66” - 72” 3 4”73” - 78” 4 6 1/2”79” - 84” 4 7”85” - 90” 4 7 1/2”91” - 96” 4 8”97” - 101” 5 10”102” - 108” 5 11”109” - 114” 5 11 1/2”115” - 120” 5 12”

NOTE: Projections over 8” require Bracing, and a roofwhere soffits do not sufficiently cover the window.Seat Depth roughly equals Projection since the thick-ness of the window &frame is approximately thesame as the standard wall depth of 4 1/2”.

Mullion Width Projection Seat CenterAngle of Depth Window

Flanker Factor

30 degree 16" 8 3/4" 10 1/2" 34 1/2"22" 11 1/2" 13 1/4" 44 3/4"28" 14 1/2" 16 1/4" 55 1/4"

45 degree 16" 12 1/4" 14 1/4" 31"22" 16 3/4" 18 1/2" 39 1/2"28" 21" 22 3/4" 48"


Installing Bay or Bow WindowsAs with any replacement, accurate measurement isthe key to a simple and successful installation. Referto the measurement and specifying section to famil-iarize yourself with the parts and pieces that have tobe removed. You must be able to measure the exist-ing window and be able to add the proper inches tothe height and width to accommodate the frame thatmust be removed, but is hidden beneath the trim.

If you’re not sure of the dimensions, don’t be afraid toremove any trim when you measure. It is more pru-dent to be concerned with a properly installed andsealed new window, rather than with tampering withthe old window.

Removing the Old WindowThere are two types of old windows that are usuallyreplaced with a new Bay or Bow Window- a picturewindow/double hung or slider combination, or an oldBay or Bow Window. If the window to be replaced is acombination window, then it is best to remove theentire window, frame and all.

If the window to be replaced is an old Bay or BowWindow, it might be easier to just remove the windowparts and leave the old head and seat board. If theold head and seat boards are structurally sound, thenew window might able to be installed to fit withinthese boards and limit the amount of disturbanceyou must make to the trim and siding around the oldBay or Bow Window.

If the total old Bay or Bow Window needs to beremoved, the old roof and outer lower support mayalso need to be replaced regardless of their condition.New, custom made Bay or Bow Windows may have adifferent angle or curve than the old bay or bow, andthe roof and lower support would have to be rebuiltor replaced to match the shape of the new windowand avoid leaks or an unsightly installation. Minorvariances can be accommodated by quality cappingand trim. Remember, the finished looks are as impor-tant as the structural support.

Whenever possible, work with the factory and try tobe able to make a custom window and save the work.If the home owner wants new trim outside, at themost offer it as an extra, because if the window fitsthe opening, new outside trim may not be necessary.

Follow the drawings and remove all parts of the oldwindows until you are down to the head and seatboard. The existing header, sill, roof and support areall held fast to the wall. Removing the old windowshouldn’t interfere with any of these.

The only item you may want to check would be thesupport since the new window might be heavierbecause of the insulated glass in the window units.Carefully removing the covering of the support struc-ture will probably allow you to add additional sup-port if necessary. The old covering can be re-applied and trimmed new to blend the new win-dow to the existing siding.

Removing an existing combination window shouldclear the opening down to the header, sill, and jackstuds, as shown.

Custom Wall DepthMost bay, Bow, or Garden Windows have 6"standard side board depths. For most applicationsthese are the correct dimensions.

For some applications, however, the opening isextra deep requiring a custom side board depth.

Using the diagrams for Siding and Brick, measurethe opening depth.

Inside Trim

KingStud

Sill Plate

JackStud

CrippleStud

Head

SIDING

BRICK

HEIG

HT

WIDTH

Measure Here

Measure Here


Carefully remove all the exterior trim, drip capping,and brick mould casing. If the house has been re-sided, remove the old “J” channel and replace withnew so that it can butt-up to the new window cor-rectly.

Carefully measure the rough opening and compare itwith the outside dimensions of the new Bay or BowWindow. Sometimes, the construction in an olderhome diverts from the expected. Large spaces wereframed out and filled with insulation up to the oldwindow. These spaces can be filled in with 2x4 stock,5/4 stock, even 1 inch stock. The concern youshould have is to make sure that the new window isstructurally supported around the entire perimeter,and that the opening is not more than 1/4” to 1/2”larger than the new window. It is always easier tomake the opening smaller to fit the window.

If the opening should be smaller than the window, itwill probably not be more than 1/2” to 1” smaller. If the opening is smaller in the width you can replaceone of the jack studs with a 5/4 “ x 4” board andgain 3/8” more clearance. Replacing both jack studswith 5/4” stock opens the width 3/4”.

Before replacing the jack studs, prop up the headerwith a temporary brace. Cut and remove the jackstud carefully. Install a steel corner brace where theheader meets the king stud. Cut and install the 5/4stock to the right length, and nail securely. Install asteel corner brace where the jack stud meets therough sill. If the jack studs are to be replaced on bothsides, cut and install a new rough sill after the newjack studs are installed and the temporary headerbracing is removed.

If the opening is too small in height, the rough sillcan be replaced with 5/4 stock which will increasethe opening height 3/8”. If that still isn’t enough,then the cripple studs beneath the rough sill mayhave to be shortened. It is advisable not to tamperwith the header because that involves major con-struction work.

Installing the New Bay, Bow, or Garden Window

Bay, Bow, and Garden Windows designed for replace-ment come as an integral unit which includes headand seat boards, all the windows, complete in asealed unit ready for installation. If the top and bot-tom are not sealed with coated aluminum to weather-proof them, it is advisable to do so before installation.Even if you intend to cover the top and bottom, theextra step will prevent any deterioration of the unitfrom moisture buildup.

Bay or Bow Window units are bulky and heavy andwill require help in installation. Use at least one per-son for every three feet of width. Because they arebuilt within 1/4” of the opening height, it is nearlyimpossible to install the units from the outside dueto the height of the opening off the ground. It is sim-pler to insert the window into the house, right it to itsproper up-right position, and install it slowly fromthe inside as shown.

First rest the outer edge of the projection on the sill,tilt the window unit up-right until the upper edge of

Corner Bracing

Siding

Support

Seat Board

Jamb

Head Board

Rough Header


the projection fits under the header. Maneuver thewindow unit outward until it is about halfway out-side. The sill will now be holding the weight of theunit. Have one or two of your helpers go outside tohelp steady the window as you continue to push itthrough the opening.

If there is no existing exterior support, use 2 x 4studs as shown, Pre-cut to the anticipated length tosupport the outer edge of the projection as it is easedoutside. Work the unit outside until the edges of theside boards, head board, and seat board are flushwith the interior wall surface.

Secure the outer edge of the projection with adequatesupport from the temporary braces. Using a level, besure that the window sits plumb and square in theopening. Using 3” wood screws, countersunk in thesides, head, and seat, gently anchor the window unitin the opening using shims under each screw. Checkthe plumb, square, and level again and adjust asnecessary. Then you can tighten the screws.

Any Bay, Bow, or Garden Window with a projectionover 8” outside the exterior siding of the house needssupport brackets. If none are supplied with the unit,a pair can be cut from 2x12, or 2x10 pressure treat-ed lumber. They can then be covered with pre-fin-ished aluminum capping stock or form the base foran enclosed support, as shown.

Making a Support for Bay, Bow, or Garden WindowsOutside the house, set a knee brace or angled sup-port under each mullion of the window. Place thelong leg of the brace against the house,and drill pilotholes through the brace into cripple studs in thewall. You can identify the location of the cripplestuds after you have removed the old window.

Nails in the rough sill will show where they are. Ifthere is no cripple stud in a proper position, movethe brace left or right (within reason) until it lines upcorrectly.The idea is to support the window, under the mul-lions, as close as possible, yet maintain a balanced,symmetrical look to the braces. If they are to be cov-ered, the symmetry is less important.

Fasten the support bracket using a 3/8” lag bolt thatis long enough to penetrate into the stud at least 2".Fasten the brace to the underside of the Bay or Bowunit with a wood screw of sufficient length to anchorinto the seat board, but not puncture through.

Using a Cable Support SystemMost manufacturers can supply a cable support sys-tem for Bay and Bow Windows to eliminate the needfor knee brackets. Garden Windows, with glass roofsthat cannot use a cable system, will still require kneebrackets. If a cable support system is not availablefrom the manufacturer, lumber and building materi-als dealers can usually supply a kit.

The typical cable kit consists of two threaded pins,washers and nuts, cables, and cable anchor brack-ets. Cable support systems work easiest where thereis an overhang (soffit or cantilevered floor) above theinstalled window. Follow the instructions suppliedwith the cable system.

Temporary Support

ShimsShims

Stud

Stud


In the overhang are roof rafters or floor joists towhich the cables are anchored. The cables runthrough the hollow mullions separating the windowsin the unit, and the cables are finally anchored to thethreaded pins which protrude through the bottom ofthe seat board on the window.

The washer and nut are applied to the threaded pin.Each nut is tightened until the window unit is leveland plumb. Once the window is level, the temporarybracing can be removed.The cable support systemcan be adjusted periodically to compensate forchanges caused by temperature, humidity, or settling of the wall.

For installations where there is no overhang, refer tothe instructions to add a roof. The cable system canbe substituted for the plumber's tape. The cable

anchor is boltedto the stud in thewall under theroof, and thecable and pinsare installed thesame way. Remember,because of theangle of the cable,stress is placed atthe point wherethe cable exits thetop of the head-board. It is rec-ommended toalso use supportangles below theseat board ininstallationswhere the cablecannot be hungfrom a rafter orjoist above.

Adding a RoofGarden Windows have their own integral roof with a glass panel. Bay and Bow Windows do not have awater-tight roof or headboard. If the new Window sitsclose to an existing overhang (cantilevered upperfloor or soffit) capping from pre-finished aluminumcoil stock can be applied and blend the unit into theoverhang as shown and no roof is needed. However,for installations where there is no overhang, a roof isnecessary to avoid water leakage. The addition of aroof can be a decorative addition as well.

There are pre-cut, or pre-fab roof kits available fromvarious manufacturers. Most times, because the Bayor Bow Window is custom sized, pre-made roofs arenot available, so it may be necessary to build yourown. If you install a pre-cut roof, follow the manu-facturer’s instructions.

To fabricate a roof for your new window begin bymarking the siding in the shape of the roof to beadded. Cut back the siding to the sheathing at least12 inches above the top of the Bay, Bow, or GardenWindow Unit. Using plumbers’ tape (metal strapping)attach the strap to a wall stud about 10” above thetop of the window unit.

Cable Supports

Soffit

Coil Stock


Brace

CableSupport

Pull the strap out to the window corner, or a mullionand use a screw to anchor it to the head board. Do this on both sides.

Depending on the projection, make a hip rafter out of 2x4's (when space is limited 5/4 stock or 1-1/4"thick wood is desirable) as shown. Install an endrafter on each side.

Fasten additional hip rafters, (about every 16”) as necessary. Place a batt of insulation on the head board, and sheath the roof with 3/8" exterior plywood as shown.

If desired, a preformed drip edge can be nailed to the sheathing before roof shingles are applied. It is imperative that step flashing be used under the siding, and strip flashing be used over the shingles to keep water from the headboard area. Use a roof sealant as necessary to seat the flashing.

Fasten hip shingles over the hip ridges, and trim theshingles to finish the roof.

The sides of the unit, and the joint of the siding tothe seat board should be sealed with moulding andcaulk as necessary. As stated before, “J” channelscan be applied and lapped to the rough opening priorto the installation, and caulk and necessary cappingapplied after the Bay, Bow, or Garden Window unit ismounted, braced, and the roof installed.

If the new window is installed over an existing headand seat board, re-apply, or replace the channels,drip caps, and capping as necessary. Caulk at alljoints.

Finishing the InteriorOnce the new window has been supported and sealedon the exterior, the interior moulding can be applied.

Install insulation into the space between the sideboards, the head board, and the rough opening.Using casing, install the trim on all four sides asshown. Using wood putty, fill and sand the mountingscrew holes in the side, head, and seat boards.

Finish the headboard, seat board, and side jambswith paint or stain. For Garden Windows, you mightwant to finish the seat board with a plastic laminateto prevent water stains from the plants.

Sheathing2" x 4" HipRafter

Insulation

StepFlashing


PlumbersTape

AWDI recommends anASTM C920, Class 50sealant such as OSI®QUAD® MAX that isdesigned for exterior/inte-rior use for sealing around windows, siding anddoors. Sealants like OSI®QUAD® MAX bond best to a wide variety of materi-als and their versatility inperformance providesvaluable features and ben-efits for all installers.

AWDI understands that the application of a sealant isas crucial as the choice of sealant. When a bead ofsealant is applied to a joint there are three factors toconsider:• Adhesion• Flexibility• DurabilityWithin these three performance aspects there arecountless combinations of applications, substratesand conditions a sealant is exposed to.

Bedding Joints: For bedding joints, it is especiallyimportant that the sealant is of theright consistency and made up of100% solids so it will not shrinkafter cure, unlike solvent and latexbased sealants that shrink and cre-ate gaps after curing.

Fillet Joints: A fillet joint is formed whentwo surfaces come together toform a right angle. Thesealant used to join these twosurfaces is triangular inshape. The sealant mustadhere to the variety of sub-strates you’re faced with.Without strong adhesionthere is a high chance thatthe sealant will pull awayfrom the substrate allowingfor air and water infiltration.

Control Joints:A control joint is formed when two similar or dissimi-lar materials meet or when substrates do not form aright angle. This joint will require both a backer rodand sealant for proper application. This joint can beas wide as 5/8 inch and be prone to extreme movement, a highly flexiblesealant is necessary for a reliable seal with thisapplication. In order to successfully install a win-dow or door and effect alasting weathertight seal,

Picking the Proper Sealant

Desired Properties

Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows ©2015-2016 All Rights Reserved

ADHESIVE JOINT

BOND BREAKER

TAPE

ANGLED JOINT

BACKER ROD

No Shrinkage

Locks out air and water infiltration to protectintegrity of the seal

Proven Wet Surface Application

Ability to use the same sealant in warm and cold temperature situations to produceconsistent results. 0F – 140F cold and warmweather application

Strong Adhesion / All Surfaces Will stick toeven the most difficult to bond buildingmaterials

5X stretch, 50% joint movement Long termdurability assurance even with expansionand contraction of building materials

24 hour fast cure, paintable 1 HR. Fast cureto protect the building structure from outsideforces and quick paintability saves time

Achieves bubbling resistance faster to ensureoptimal aesthetics

4,600 + Color Matches ensures perfect colormatch to all primary building materials

Dirt & Dust Resistance ensures optimal visual appeal long after an installation

UV Resistance

Long term durability to compliment the durability of the building structure

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While the term “Spray Foam” is often widely used inconstruction, there are two different types and eachhas its advantages and disadvantage.

Spray foam has been shunned by window installersand manufacturers over the years because foams, inthe past, have either continued to expand after trimhas been applied deforming the more pliable vinylwindow frames, or because they have been over usedto fill the gaps left when old windows are removedand the underlying rough opening has been exposed.

Make sure the foam you use has been tested toindustry standards and is labeled conforming tostandards as a low expansion, low pressure foam.

Most standards applying to window installation donot delineate between open cell foam and closed cell foam, the more popular “minimal expansion”foams are most frequently used and they are mostlyclosed cell. More confusing yet, is when foams arerecommended, the compressed foam tape alternativesare called out to be open cell.

When it comes to Spray Foams, it helps to under-stand the differences.Open-cell spray foam (ocSPF)has a cell structure where the cells are filled with air.The open-cell structure renders soft, flexible foam,with a density of about 0.5-0.8 pounds per cubic foot(pcf).

The R-value per inch of open-cell foam typicallyranges from R3.6 to R4.5 per inch. Unlike fiberglassand cellulose, the fine cell structure of ocSPF makesit air-impermeable at certain thicknesses. The air-impermeability of ocSPF qualifies it as an air-barriermaterial, dramatically reducing air leakage throughthe building envelope, significantly lowering thebuilding’s heating and cooling costs. However, ocSPF, like fiberglass and cellulose insulations, is moisture-permeable, and may require the installa-tion of a vapor retarder in colder climates.

Closed-cell spray foam (ccSPF) has a closed cellstructure which yields rigid hard foam, with a

density of 1.8-2.3 pound per cubic foot (pcf), and can provide structural enhancement in certainframed buildings. The smaller cells trap insulatinggas from the curing, which has a lower thermal conductivity than still air, and increases the R-valueto anywhere from R5.8 to R6.9 per inch.

Like ocSPF, ccSPF is also air impermeable at certainthicknesses and can qualify as an air-barrier materi-al. The bigger benefit is that the closed-cell structureof ccSPF also makes it water-resistant, and is theonly spray foam that can be used where contact withwater is likely.

At a thickness of 1.5 inches, no additional vaporretarder is required for most applications.

Spray Foam Insulation


Industry tested and labeled as a LowPressure/Low Expansion; i.e., will not warp or deform windows & doors

Quick Setting Formulation: can be cut ortrimmed in less than 1 hour

Cold Temperature Application: can beapplied in temperatures as low as 14F

Insulation Value of R5: makes it an efficientmethod for stopping air and moisture infil-tration

Remains Flexible Once Cured: will not crackor dry out

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Desired Properties

Using Spray FoamFor the best installation, it is necessary for the gaparound the window or door to be sealed to block outair, water and vapor penetration. ccSPF can do thatwell if selected and used properly. Improper use cancreate water traps, impede drainage and exert exces-sive pressure to the window frame during expansion.

Remember: Vapor barriers need to applied on thewarm side of the opening. Double vapor barriers (one on the warm side and another on the cool side)encourage condensation between and will trap theresulting condensation. Also, window installationcavities (the space between the window frame and the rough opening, or left-in-place old window frame)need to “breathe” to the outside, and allow drainageof collected water to the outside.

Used wisely, ccSPF can be the best solution. AWDIrecommends ccSPF’s like OSI® QUAD® Foam whichis a polyurethane closed cell, low pressure/lowexpansion sealant to fill the gaps as protectionagainst moisture and air. OSI's closed cell foam alsoachieves a thermal performance of R5 per inch.

ApplicationOSI® QUAD Foam is applied using a Foam ApplicatorGun. This foam and gun combination allows for moreprecise application than the straw grade foam alter-native. This gun offers a rear valve used to controlthe size of bead applied into the openings. The valvealso allows the life of the foam to be extended by clos-ing the opening of the barrel for future use.

For even smaller openings, a detachable screw on topis included with the gun to be able to fill gaps assmall as ¼” wide.


Important tips:• Similar to the sealant gun, it is critical that you balance the movement of the foam gun or straw barrel and how you dispense the foam so that thefoam makes contact with both the rough or existingwindow frame and replacement window frame.

• If the dispensed foam does not make contact withboth the rough frame and the window frame, therewon’t be an adequate bond to seal out water and air.

• Industry Standards suggest application of 1 inchbeads, separated by an equal space. Be careful not to create two vapor barriers - one at the exterior andone at the interior. Make sure there is the ability forthe opening to breathe to the cold side for drying anddrainage. Use backer rod about one inch in the sill asa stop to make a workable back dam

• When applying foam around the perimeter of the window or door, you must maintain a minimumdepth of 1 inch. This depth is required to provide the correct thermal performance, to help improveenergy savings, and to protect against condensationproblems.

• When applying foam as a back dam to the gapbetween the window frame and the rough sill, do not allow the foam to extend to the exterior edge ofthe opening. Maintain a minimum of a 1 inch gapbetween the foam and the exterior edge of the roughsill. If foam fills this gap at the sill, any water fromleakage will not be able to drain to the drainage planeor exterior cladding surface. Place backer rod thelength of the sill, 1” from edge and use it as a backdam guide.

Backer Rod

1”Set Back

FoamBead

FoamBead

Documents

Installing Bay, Bow and Garden Windows · 2017. 9. 25. · Installing Bay or Bow Windows As with any replacement, accurate measurement is the key to a simple and successful installation