INSTRUCTION BOOK FOR WEIDEL'S

T T

toINSTRUCTION BOOK FOR

WEIDEL'SCombined Tailor Square and Curves

One Piece for Drafting every size, shape or form

J. A. WEIDELInventor

The square is used by

all

mechanics

i*'

Every time

You draw a line

\ ou say that looks fine

T o be made in such short time

Because it was drafted by

Weidel's Square and Curve Combine

You need not make any free hand curves

Which are quite trying to your nerves

And when your draft \' ail complete

You are delighted to know you accomplished the feat

For some would say it was made with a stencil

And wonder how it could be done with a pencil

Witli the above invention you can draft every style of Skirt, Coat, Waist, and Sleeve

for Ladies and Children, and follows every fashion.

WEIDEL & WEBSTER,

kAWISI ILORINQ COLLI _"^b

3838 and 3840 Olive Street

ST. LOUIS, MO.

Pass r rs)'^ #

:-W-

\

WEIDEL'S

INSTRUCTION BOOKFOR

Those Using WeideFs Combined Tailor Square and Curves

(J^ %a^

A COMPLETE TREATISE

ON

Drafting Ladies^ and Children's Garments by the

Square and Curves Combined

fe5» t5»

By J. A. WEIDELST. LOUIS. MO.

1910

-./,_x\

Jutrnhuritnn.

1 HK drafts herein rontained are iiKistly foundation

drafts, as we tlioUi,rht it l)est not t() g'ive many fancy

drafts. As the styles are continually chanj^^nng- and we

h^Mieve it best for the beg'inner to learn to draft a jj^'ood

Foundation and then make such chanfj:e.- as often as

the stvle demands.

10' -9.^

MOOTHESTTRONGEST

EWINCILK

FACTORY, PITTSFIELD. MASS.

SALES ROOMS: ST. LOUIS CHICAGO NEW YORK

\W- have used Rick'.s vSii.k for fi\e years ami can thori>ii'_;hl\- reoomnu-iul it. It lias

proved to he most satisfactory at all times.

WkidiiI. iS; Wi';i!sti-:k L.mhks r.xiLOKixi; College.

O. ABERER MANUFACTURING CO.

WRITE FOR PRICE LIST OF

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^'our own material to match your gown made up in

either flat or oval top huttons with cloth tuft to sew on

Office: 801 MERMOD JACCARD BLDG.

ST. LOUIS, MO. Both Phones

ST LOUIS. 50I-503-S05

ST, PAUL. RYAN BLDG

KANSAS CITY. 700-702 main street

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''Y' • / ')/> 'II / W[ jini/if/u//i((i/i •/)j'(:t. II {('/('ii (jc>.

MANUFACTURERS AND IMPORTERS OF

KINLOCH CENTRAL 3015 Nos. 501-503-505 North Seventh St., ST. LOUIS

(ffH

Mannish Goods for Ladies^ Tailored Suits

in French, German and English fabrics. The most Exclusive

Materials shown in this country, in varicolored stripes and checks,

56 inches wide and in all shades. If mterested send for samples.

THE LARGEST, BEST AND CHEAPEST

EXCLUSIVE FUR BUSINESSIn the whole West is situated at

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St. Louis Largest Stock at

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THE \VELL-KNOV^N RELIABLE FURRIER

Leonhard Roos Fur Company

WE ARE HEADQUARTERS FOR

Dressmakers' Forms,

Mirrors, Show Gases,

Etc.

M.A.HEIMANNMFG.GO.

822 Washington Ave.

ST. LOUIS, MO.

We handle all kinds of

Adjustable Forms,

Skirt Guages and alsoNo. 25

PRINCESS

$15.00 Make Forms to Order

School of Millinery

Millinery taught in all branches

Latest most up-to-date method

Course 20 Lessons, - $10.00

Positions Secured

SPRING CLASS

January 1 to March I

FALL CLASS

July to September 5

Write for particulars,

4017 OLIVE STREET

WRAPPING PAPERS: FOLDING PAPER BOXES

PATTERN Axn DRAFTING PAPERSwKriî-: TO

FOR SAMPLES AND PRICES

We Recommend for Drafting Purposes Our

28X28 SHEETS AND 48 -INCH ROLLS

Buy Your Machine From Us

"And Save Money"

We are headquarters for all makes and sell direct from factory

to you. If you buy from us you save the Agent's and Middleman's

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New Dropheads

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Needles

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Per Dozen

National Automatics $35.00

New Home Automatics $32.50

New Home, Lock Stitch, $29.50

New Domestics, Lock and Chain, $28.50

New White, latest styles, $26.50

Drophead Singer and Wheeler & Wilson, $16.50

Machines rented, $1.50 to $3.00 a month. All makes repaired for $1.00. Shuttles for any

machine not obsolete, 50c. Rufflers, 75c. Tuckers, 85c, and all other parts at wholesale.

New York Sewing Machine Co.

1 208- 1 Franklin Ave. ST. LOUIS, MO.Mam 2778 Central 5500

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Taking Measures by Weidei's System 3 to 5

Notes 5

Important to all who use Weidei's Square and Curves 6

How to make a Sweep 6

Rules 7

Draft No. 1. Instructions for drafting Shirt-Waists .'. 7-9

Draft No. 2, Tight Waist or Prmcess 10-13

Draft No. 3, Tight Waist with bias dart and straight Front 13-15

Draft No. 4, Tight Waist with two underarm pieces for Large forms 16-19

Draft No. 5. Tight Fitting Coat with curved hront 20-23

Draft No. 6. Semi-Fitting or halt-fitting 24-27

Draft No. 7. Double-breasted Box Coat with Shawl Collar 28-30

Draft No. 8, Changes for Stooping and Over Erect forms 30-34

Draft No. 9, Waist for small child : 34-36

Draft No. 10, Child Sleeve 36

Draft No. I I, Tight-Fitting Sleeve 36

Draft No. 12, Bishop Sleeve with small Top 38

Draft No' 13, Bell or Wing Sleeve with small Top 38

Draft No. 14, ahirt- Waist Sleeve 39-40

Draft No. 15, Small one-piece Leg-O'-Multon Sleeve for Waists .. 39-40

Draft No. 16, Two-piece Leg-O'- Mutton Sleeve for Coat 39-40

Draft No. I 7, Half-circular Cape with dart on Shoulder 42

Draft No. 18, Fitted Cape with seam over the Shoulder 44

Draft No 19, Full Circular Skirt 46

Draft No. 20, Near-Circular Skirt 48

Draft No. 21, Seven-gore divided Skirt with Apron h ront ,. 50

Gore Skirts are as follows 52

Draft No. 22, Nine-gore Flare Skirt 52 to 54

Draft No. 23, Eleven-gore Flare for Corpulent form 52 to 56

Draft No. 24, Thirteeti-gore Skirt, Tucks running to nothing 56 to 58

Draft No 23. Nine-gote Princess Skirt 58 to 60

Draft No. 26. Nineleen-gore Kilt Skirt 62-63

Drah No. 27, Stock Collar for Short Neck 64

Draft No. 28. Pfam Stock Collar 64

Draft No. 29. Military Collar .64

Draft No 30, Standing Collar with Slight Flare Top 64

Draft No, 31, High standing Collar with Extreme Flare at lop 64

Draft No. 32, Storm Collar 64

Draft No, 33, Collar for garments closing at the throat 66

Draft No 34, Neck Band for Shin Waist 66

Draft No. 35, Turn down Collar tor Shirl- Waist 66

Draft No 36, Circular Cuff 66

Draft No. 37, Half Circular Cuff 66

Draft No, 38, Plain Cuff 66

Draft No. 39, Sailor or Busier Brown Collars 68

Draft No. 40, Plaited Waist 68

Draft No, 41, P.aited or Fancy Sleeves 69

Draft No, 42, Tucked Sleeve 70

Drafts No. 43, Yokes and Flounces 70

Draft No 44, Circular Flounces 71

Draft No, 45. Fancy Plaited Skirt 72

WKIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK

PREFACE.' In placiii.y this invention before the public we desire to say for the benefit of the in"

ex]ierienced as well as the experienced, the drafts and diagrams .iîven herein are based on actual

measure and ]iroportion combined.

We have endavored wlierever possible to use actual measure and apply same on draft as

taken on person. The lines and curves are placed according to style; and liest judgment of the

inventor, and should anyone prefer to place different lines from those given, this can be

done according to the individual taste and not affect the fitting points as long as the location of

the frame work and measurements arc not changed.

It is not our intention to give many fancy drafts in this edition, as the flat foundation

<lraft is the basis of all styles of garments, and all fancy jiatterns are taken fmm them. For

this reason we deem it advisable for the student to learn to produce a PICRFECT-FITTING-

FOUNDATION before attempting to take up the more advanced studies.

The drafts are the results of many years experience with various actual measure systems,

and have been throughly tested on forms of all sizes and shapes. The AUTHOR having done

his own fitting had the advantage of seeing the results of his own patterns, thus gaining the

actual experience every successful cutter so much desires,

B_\- constantly working with different systems and drafting patterns of all kinds we nuist

gain the knowledge we need and simplify our work to save time which means much to all who

wish to succeed in an\- jirofession or trade.

It should be ever\- ambitious person's desire to o\-i.Tcome difficulties which are boinid to

come up in every line of work, and especially so in designing women's garments, as the styles

are constantly changing.

To be a succesful cutter or designer you MU.ST STUDY and improve not only in your

own discoveries but learn all >'ou can from every publication that will advance your interest.

The wide-awake cutter will readily grasii any good points that will further his interest : re-

member we often learn fr mi our students.

Some prefer to take the longest route to obtain the same results, but to the more pro-

gressive person who desires to advance with the times, we believe this in\-ention will be of

interest, as the SQUARK AND CURVES being combined in one piece simi)lifies matters and

])roduces more gracefid curves in nuich less time than can be obtained in the usual free hand

methods, as no guide lines are required as is customary in the old way.

By this invention the person of average intelligence can learn to draft and design in half

the time usally required and the lines are as perfect as the most experienced could produce.

By carefulh' studs'iug each and every draft as gix'en the ambitious cutter who is interested

in the advancement of the science of garment cutting, will be more than rewarded with the re-

sults obtained.

From the foundation drafts herein gi\-en you can produce any style of garment no matter

how often the styles may change, as the flat draft is the basis.

We hope all who study its jiages will find food for thought and get good results, and

rapidlv imin'ove with more exiierimce.

THE AUTHOR.

J. A. WEIDEL.

Cnpynglited by Weidel & Webster

Tailoring College. January, IMlu.

WEIDKL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK

TAKING MEASURES BY WEIDEL'S SYSTEM. W ai>t—JuM al.nvc the strap at waist-line.

I li]i— .\i(ninil the liip alniut .^ inclu's heluw tlu' strap

To the beginner, a.s well as the e.xperieneed. wej,^ fj.-ml. an.] h inches at side and Lack, keepins;

I in a le\el with tli " ir.adx'ise all measures to he taken with much care,

heiuK careful not to draw tape line to-- ti^ht, ur, _, ,„^.;î,i,,_p-,,„„ vvaist-line ..r h.-tloni of strap on

leave it too loose. Measures shduld he taken M\cr

a soft waist, not a starched nr stitT nne. See that

the person is |>ro])erly corseted.

First place a narrnw stra|i with Imckle armind

waist and draw stra|) to tit;htness the l)an<l is to he.

See that it follows natural waist-line.

Begin by taking all the rnund measures first,

standing back of perscin.

Xeck—Taken around the neck-baml.

Bust—Over the fullest part of Imst in front, and n]>

high in back o\er fullest p.art of >honlder blades.

not too tight or loi.isc.

left side on a line with front of arndiole. .ironnd

to back of neck, then down to waist-line on right

side to bottom of strap. (In ap])lying this nieas-

nre, use ouh' half of the measure on dralt.l

( )\er-Shonlder, Kight Side

—

l'"roiii w'aist-line in

back. o\er the shoulder, t(.uching a poiiU about _'

inches from end of shoulder, then ilown to waist

line in front. (.Vlways draft by the highest îcle. I

< )\er-Shoidder, Left Side—Taken in same manner

as riL;ln side, from waist-line in back to waist-

line m front. ( I )o not take these measures over

the fullest p;irt ol bust,

)

WBIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK

DEPTH UK ARMHOI.E

Lonnf-Back—From wa'st-line about 3 inches from

center back on left side up side of neck, around

front of neck, then down ri^lit side to vvaist-Hne

in back.

liei.L;ht of I'.ust—From front of neck to fullest part

of liust.

Length of Front—From front of neck to bottom of

strap or waist-line.

Width of Chest— From arnihole to arndiole. about

3 inches down from neck.

L'nder-Arm Measure—From |)it or le\el of .irmhole

down to liottiin' of strap at waist-line; be care-

ful and not Ljet it too long.

Hepth of Arndiole— Place 60-inch end of tajie meas-

ure under left arm. as high up as it will .go, then

bring it straight across back and under right arm,

keeping tape measure on a level witli bottom of

armholes, and while in this position measure from

Collar-bone down to top of tape line.

Length of Hack—From collar-bone at Ijack of neck

to bottom of strap at waist-line.

Width of I'.ack—From armhole to armhole, across

back about half way between the top of shoulder

and bottom of arn-hole. Be careful not to get

this measure too narrow. You cannot depend on

the waist the person is wearing. If preferred,

the width of l)ack can be taken as follows: Place

a ])encil under each arm and measure from one

to the other ; in ajiplying it on draft use this

measure on liust line 5. but do not deduct the

inch.

Length of Shoulder—From collar-bone at back of

neck down to point of shoulder, being careful not

to take this measure past the shoulder point.

.'\rmhole—Aroim<l arndiole about 1 inch from point

of shoidder.

WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK

lU'ST

WAIST

Ariiiinil IClliow—Anniiiil l'11)ii\v with arm sliL;litly imniial or ( ixcr-crcct. larm' in fi'mil l)clii\v wai'-t-

bent to give ease.Ij„^._ ^.^^^^ sli. .ulder-bhuies, large hips tnwar.l hack

Around the HaiKl—Over fullest part of hamh ihunib , n, , „ i „ .1 1 .i^„. ,„.,;ct li,,,. Tlii^' or perhaps \erv riat in hack helow waist line, tinsand all.

'

• •, 1

latter ease- wnuM indicate a largeness m trniit belowInseani of Slee\e—From pit of arinhnle trj wrist

jiiint, with arm hanging straight down, waist-line.

Length of 'Skirt Front, Right Side, Back, Left Side- Remember, y..„ must put the g.-uls where the

Skirt measures are all taken fmm bcittum of strap hgnre rec|uires it.

to floor. Be sure to measure >i\er fullest jiart of r)raft to the meastn-es, and not l.i the dress over

liip at siilc. which the measures are taken. Remember that the

'

Long Side and ( )ver Shoulder measures must not

^°'^^^-be taken ..ver the fullest part nl bust.

T ,• 1 1 iff The I nil" Side ,iiid L'lUij ll.ick measures are used

Li taking measures always make a note ol form. ' "^ '' "> -^

Notice if figure is rouud-shduldered or stooping, tn di-tcniiine the attitinU'.


One Piece for Drafting every Size. Sfiape or Form

Face or top side ot square Division side of square

IMPORTANT TO ALL WHO USE WEIDEL'SSQUARE AND CURVES.

In nsinj^ thi> '^yst(.In. fii>t familiarize yniirself

A'itli llu' k'ttcr> aiiil munhers used in niakini; the

different curves. Then nutice the arranLjenient of

the (livisidiis on the ilivision, or arrow side of square.

>vhich are used to quickly divide any oi\en num-ber used in draft inj^ all kimls of oarments

; thus do-

intj away with hguriuL; usually required in .systems

or draftiuL; machines.

( )n the hand ( ir face side of square the inches are

arrancred so yon measure from either eml without

turniuj;- the s(|nare around. The center row (see

lart;e fij:jures) i)egin at ri^htdiand end of sc|uare.

The small fi!.;ures at bottom row are half-inches.

T'hen aluno the rinht-hand end vuu will find the

fli\isi(in (if fiim-ths.

Line 1 un s(|uare is the first line near hand run-

ninn in the directicm (if long arm of S(|uare.| See

small hole near hand.

)

Line 2 crosses 2 small holes on left-hand end of

;quare.

Line 3 is square up from line 2, near lower front

arndiole cur\e.

The letters nu face or hand side of square indi-

cate the (lifi'erent cur\cs re(|nire<l in garment draft-

ing.

Nunrbers on lidttum or arrow side indicate the

o])])osite curves. 'I'hese curves do away with free-

hand drawing re(|nired by most systems and very

difticult to the lieginner.

Every curve is made with a lead pencil.

Notice.— I'se st|uare with hnnd or arrow pointing

as indicated. The hand is on the face side, and the

arrow on the bottom or division side, of scpiare.

^\'hen divisions are referred to in draft, find size

wanted in the division mentioned, thus: If a draft

reads 22 in 4tlis. or waist measure in 4ths. find 22

in the division of 4ths on right-hand end of square.

Thus you can readilv find nnmlier in whatever divi-

si()n you desire without the difficult figuring usually

required.

HOW TO MAKE A SWEEP.

Sweeps are used more or less in all drafting^.

F'irst sew a loop 1^ inches long in the 60-inch

end of ta])e measure.

Now place pencil point in loop and hold withright hand at point from which you wish the sweepto begin ; als() hold tajjc in left hand at pivotingpoint

: n<:\v make swec]) forward or liack as perinstructions.


RULES. Then add tn each succeeding gore, exce])t hack.

• the same amounts.

Rule No. 1. p,,p 17 ;,,,,! pi ^,,re vkirts. make 2nd and ,^rd gore

Make back piece in tiLdit-titting waist as follows:,

_^ i,^^,], |^.^^ (],.,„ ,i,,„i,K. ; iIk-ii add '4 inch for every

From 20 to 24 waist, make hack piece at waistdine^^^^^ ..,ires followiu"'-

I inch, increasiuii '4 inch ever\- 4 sizes al)ove. „ , . 1 .'

11,

1 1 1 ... , . •,,-!,•^ ^ - For sku'ts that are to ha\e a plaU ad<kMl at eai n

The front piece at waist-Hue increases the same,,i 1 . ,. , i..;,,

'. seam, do not add as much as \<n\ wonld toi plain

proportion. '

, 1111'

' or flared sku't. a-~ the extra amount is added whenRule No. 2.

Make under-arm dart on tighl-tittmg waist or t'^<-' material is cut.

cat as follows: Rule No. 5.

When the amount for darts is 2 inches or less, I'roportionate hip is 4 inches more than Ini.-t.

make under-arm dart '4 inch. F"or each inch the hip i^ less than the pr .portion.

W hen the amount for darts is .? inches or less, move lines 22-2.^ forward ' s inch for "ach inch dif-

make under-arm dart j 2 incli. ferenceWhen the amount for darts is more than 3 inches,

* r-T Mr^ 1

make under-arm dart --4 inch. DRAh 1 NU. I

Rule No. 3.

The following a<lditions are made for coats or MEASURF. USED FOR THIS DRAFT

shirtwaists: ^^ Neck l-^'- Width of ("hest

Extra tight fitting coats, add v; inch outside of 35 ]^j,st ^ Length of Underarm

actual l)ust measure. -,:> -Waist " Depth of Armhole

Tii^ht fitting coats. a<ld 1 inch outside of actual 40 Hjp 15 Len.uth of Hack

bust measure. t^-j Lone Side 1-^ Width of Back

Three-fourths fitting coats, add 1'4 inches out- 29 Over Ri.i^ht Shoulder 7 '- Lentjth of Shoudler

side of actual Inist measure. 29 Over Left Shoulder 15 Size ot Armhole

Half-fitting coats, add I'j inches outside of ac- ^g Long Back H Elliow

tual bust measure.<^ He'ght of F)Ust '^ Hand

Shirt waist, add 2 inches outside of actual bust ,^ Lemth of Front 1 i^ Length of Sleeve in seam

measure.

Notice.—This addition gives center front line on INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTINGcoats or shirt waist. „„ ..tatot^Rule No. 4.

SHIRT WAIST.

h*or all gored skirts make the folkiwing additions_

to increase the width of bottom—these additions Draft No. 1.

do not include the Hare: .... ; ;., i;-.,o,r., . ,,,, ,,.,. , ,. .„, Ahvavs use s.iuarc m .hrection of nnluator-Notice.— 1 hese additions are tor medium width

skirts and can be made more or less as the stvles 'i-'"'' '"" î''''"^^-.

demand ' I'>'--t ->'"'.^- ^'^"Ii '""' ''''''>' '"^'^'^-'le- ^'' -V"" ^"'"

Mea.sure each ôre at hipdine (except front and readily understand that the measures are applied

back gore), and add the :idditions at bottom. These on the <lralt just as they are takrn on tliê peison.

additions are all made on all gores except front and I'.e-in at riL;hl-han.l end of paper. (See direc-

back. tion <if hand on draft. 1

For .^ gore make 2nd •.,u- double the hip ,livi- Dniw line 1about 1

inch from edge of paper

si, ,11 and add 1' . inches. <^^'^^ li.'ind.)

,, - 151 I I I ,1 I r

• 1; is alwavs 7 inches trom top ot paper.For / tjore make 2nd gore dotihle the hip ilivi-

, .

'

, , , 11 - ;„ .1, . ;,, tins c-ise^ . '^ '

i; to C IS depth ol armhole : / inches m inis cast.

sion am add I'j inches., ,, • , , .- 1 -1 t . ..n;.! im,-1; to 1) IS len,L;lh ol back to waist-liiu

>"or ') gore make 2n<l gore double the hip divi-S<niare line 2 Jiy line 1. with left-hand sh. irt arm

sion and add 1 inch

I'or 11 gore make 2nd ,L;ore double the hip divi

sion and add }^ inch.

For 1,^ .eore make 2nd gore double the hip divi

if S(iiiare.

'D Im \\ is difference between bust and waist.

(See waist suiipressioii at lell hand end of square.)roi 1,1 s.'oic iiuiKe _iiu K"' <- uwui.ii. mv in/ vi...

i . ii f,. ,,,,

,, ,, ., "^ 1„ ,l,is c;ise it is 14 inches. Now mark al 14 liomsion and add J2 men. '"

For LS gore make 2ml gore double the hip divi- 1) to Iv lla.l there been IS inches dittereiice we

sion and add J4 inch. vould have marked at IX.


Draw line 3 I'rdiii 11 ilitdnnh \l. placinii riL;lit-liaiiil

short arm nf S(|uar(,- at 1'.. While in this positimi

S(|iiare line 4 liy line 3.

r, to F is neck size, usini; neck size fur hack at

ri^ht-hand eml.

F to Ci is half inch straiL;lit up.

Square line 3 liy line 1. (See direction i)f hand.)

H t(i ] is width nf hack in hah'es, less 1 inch.

H to j is hiist measure in halves: 3Ci in this case

K is half way hetween H & J.

L is ^4 inch hack of K.

Square down from L and make M the under-arni

measure on line (i.

M to K is 3' J inches.

Draw line frnm E thr(jun;h M al)iiut ly, inches.

E til () is waist measure in fourths (22 in this

case ).

1 iraw line 7 from E to (J.

I' is under-arni measure from L-

I 'raw waist line from E to P.

Place '> cur\'e at P and draw line 8 to N.

Q 's E'j inches from E.

Place P curve at U and draw line to N.

S(|uare line 10 from 1 uji ahuut 8 inches, and

dnwn from 1 until it crosses waist-line. This lo-

cates R.

Now place square 1 inch lielciw waist-line at R.

straight down frnm I, with hand iiointing- ui>: while

in this piisiticin apply i iver-shoulder measure in

halves (2'i in this case). This locates S.

Place K curve at G and draw line 11 from GthrouL'h S t(i \ on scpiare.

Draw line 12 from 1! to G. with I' curve at P).

T is length of shdulder from B. (Sec dotted

line.)


L" is half way l](,-l\vccn II and II.

Make a iIdI hall way hitwccii T and I.

L' In \' is width lit hack in hal\L's, (Set.' dcitted

line.)

I)ra\v line 13 frnin T thniui^h \' |iast line 3 alii.nit

1 inch.

I Mace line 1 nn si|iiare exactly < <u line 13 nf draft

(see small Imle in si|nare near hand), with hand[lointnii; up, s(i the nii]K-r ])art i.f hack arnilmle

cnr\e t'liiches ']' and the Imttuni (if arinhnle enr\'e

tiaudies I, near 1 ,s in frnnt neck fi^nres. .\n\v drawline 14 c ir hack arndmle cnr\e.

This ciinipletes the hack draft.

Begin Front of Shirt Waist as Follows:

W is half way helween | and K.

W til X is 1 null nil all sizes Irian 30 tn 3(i hltst,

.T4 inch np tn 4_', anil '_• inch up tn 4S hiisi. ( See

Draft .\ii. S fiir stiiii]iinn nr ii\er-erect liirni.)

Sipiare down line 13 fnmi X tn ^'. the nnder-arni

measin-e. ( Sec star. 1

'i'heii cniitinne line 13 alu \e X almut \2 inches.

Measure Imni 1', tn (", i>]^ hack and place this

aninniit helnw star, with haiiil ]inintinL; np ;fnllnw

aliinn line 13 U]) tn Z. the Imii; side measure in

liahes— .^7 in this case.

Itn ,\.\ is 2 inches fnr fullness. (Shirt waists

iinlv.)

Place line 2 nn sqttare. exactly nn bust line 5,

neck size I see neck size tnr center tmiit), tnuch-

ini; .\.\ : then make a dnt ,it small hnle near hand.

(See larL;o circled dot I'. 11 nn draft.)

r)raw' line \(> frniii I'd', up tn /,.

I 'lace neck size at I'iiil; side iiieasuie at '/.. and

line 1 nn square mi line I'l nt draft, then draw line

17 frniii neck size tn neck size as at CC.

I >ra\v line IS (hand iinintiiiL; dnwn ) frmii CCthrnm;h A.\ the full length nf scpiare. This s;i\cs

the center fn nit line.

CC to F.F. is the hei.uht nf bust.

CC tn l)n is 3 inchis alwax's Inr L^rnwn persniis,

CC til FF is leiiL^tli nf frniit In waist line.

I'h' tn (iC, is 3 inches fnr hlnuse.

1111 is half wa}' lietween.

Measure frnm R upward. ^^ inch hack of S, andplace this amnunt at ^"

; fnllow alon^ line 13 tn II.

the full n\er-shnuliler measure in halves

—

29 in this

case.

Xnw pivnt at \' and make a sweej) backwardfnir.: II as per line 10.

I'lace li.alf htisi measure in fnurths al Z and ri-ht-

liaiid ci rner nf square tntichinn line 1'', which lo-

cates 11 : then draw line 3 1 fn 111 Z thrnu,u;li JJ.

Z tn K K is same length as C. to T 011 back.

I'lace leftdiand cnrner nf square nn 1)1) and P

cur\e i-esiiu^ ,111 l,usl line, hand pniutiiiL; dnwn;then draw line _'l .ind mark at cliesi measure in

halves ,is at 1,1,.

iMnin I.I. tn .MM is .i

Iinch, shirt waists milv.

Square line 22 \>y line 3 tlimut^h .MM ;ibiiut 2

inches.

Place twn small Imles in sipi.ire exactly n\ er bustline 3. and line 3 mi sipiare exactly mi line 22; wdiile

111 this |insitinn draw Inwtr frmit armliole ciuwe,

frmii \ In 14 in center frmit neck figures.

Draw iip]>er frmit armimle cnr\e by pl;u-int; 14

cur\e at nr near .MM, and cnntinne up tn KK. ThisL;i\es liiu' 23.

I'lace 17 curve '4 inch belnw KK. .md 1') curve[nuchiiiL; line 21); then dr.aw line 24. Xnw jilace

17 cur\e at Z and I'l ciir\e tniicIiiiiL; line 20, drawline In center In finish frnnt slmnlder.

.M In \\ i^ 1I

_, inches.

Draw line 23 frmn I, tn XX — the under-armlength.

Draw line 2( frmn XX In X, with 11 curve at

XX.

I)raw line 27 finm 1111 in .X.X. with 1 curve at

nil.

Draw hue 2S frmn CA] tn X. with I cnr\e al CC.Tlli- cmiqiletes frnnt.

luiHini

Will Last a Life Time.See ad in back of book

10 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK

DRAFT NO. 2

MEASURE USED FOR THIS DRAFT

13 Neck 14 '-2 Width of Chest

36 Bust

22 Waist

40 Hip

37 Long Side

8 Length of Ihideraini

7 Dcjith of Armliole

15 Length of Back

13 Width of Back

29 Over Riglit Shoulder 7 'e Length of Shoukler

29 Over Left Shoukk-r 15 Size of Arnihcjle

39 Long Back 11 Elbow

8 Height of Bust x Hand

16 Length of Front IS Length of Sleeve in seam

TIGHT WAIST OR PRINCESS.

Draft No. 2.

P is half way between B and H.

Make a dot half way between O and I.

P to O is width of back in halves. (See dotted

line.)

Draw line 10 from L) through O about 1 inch be-

low line 3.

I Mace line 1 on s(]uare on line 10 of draft, with

band pointiuL; up. so tlie u])])er part uf back armhole

cur\'e touches () and the Ixittoiii of armhole curve

tduciies line .^ at or near figure 14 in front neck fig-

ures ; now draw line 11. or l)ack arndiole curve,

from (J toK.

F, to R is waist measure in fnurths (22 in this

case I

.

R til L is the amount to be taken nut in darts

between ])ieces liack of line 6.

F, to R is what the pieces should measure when

Always u.sc square in directinn nf indicator. Iiand ''t'we,! togetlier. It is best to divide the pieces and

ij. ;irrow ''^'^' '''"''^"^ ''" ^ se])arate place, thus:

Draw line 1 ali'-ut 1 inch I'nnu edge of paper. Draw a line and mark at waist measure in 4ths :

r. is alwavs 7 inches frnni top of paju-r. thi> is for the pieces I 5,' j inches in this case). Make

II 1(1 C is depth of arinhole (7 inches in this back i)iece 1 inch. (See Rule Xo. 1 forltack.) This

;ise). leaves 4'_, inches for the other ]iieces, which ilivide

I! t(i 1) is length of back U> waist line. i" lialf an'd come back 'i inch, thus making the 3rd

Square line 2 liy line 1, using left-hand short arm piece 2'.j inches,

of square: while in this |)osition mark at 14 in waist Draw line 2ji inches long, as this is what we had

sui)]iression figures, which is the diti'erence iK'twecii '"" darts from R tn L.

bn>t and waist: this gives dot E. Had there been X"\v mark nff ', inch f.ir .m-.I dart as from L18 mches difference, you would mark at 18. to S. (See Rule \o. 2 for under-arm dart.) This

Draw line 3 from B to F., using right-hand ^hort leaver 2'- inches for the nther tw.. darts, to lie

arm of s(|uare at B: while in tliis pnsition scp'.are divided in half, or 1 'k inches each.

|i,,j. 4 .\fter \iiu ha\e divided the (lieces an<l darts, be-

l; t(. F is neck si/.e, using neck size for back fig- lî" ^'Y ni.arking from V. to T 1 inch. (When there

ures, .-It right liaml end (if sipiare. (Notice: For îre 3 jiieces in the back.)

Coats, m.-ike I', to F 'i inch more tlian neck size.) 1- >" ^ ''^ '- i"^"''' ^ <<' ^^ '^ -.' -' inches, the

F to ( is > J inch straight uj).

II t(i I i'^ width of liack in halves, less 1 inc!i.

II t(i j is bust measure in halves (30 in this

case).

K is half way between II and J-

.Scpiare line () by line .^ from K down.

I\ 1(1 L i^ under-.arni measure.

Draw w;iist-linc from F to L.

,S(|uare line 7 from ) upward about 8 inches, andfrom 1 down, making a cross-mark as at Al ;

after

yon are famili.ar with (lie draft _V( lu can leave out

line between I and W. making cross-mark at waist-

line onh'.

.\ow place sipiare 1 inch below waist-line at M.with h.'ind i)(iinting u]), follow along line 7, andm;irk at o\er-slioul(ler measure in halves as at N.

amount of 3rd piece.

U to W is l;,^ inches, amount of 2nd dart.

T to \' is 1' s inches, the amount of 1st dart.

X is half way between (, and ( ).

Draw line 13 from X to T. If preferred this line

can be slighth- curved.^' is I'j inches above line ?. (For extra long

waist, place \' nearer to line ?.)

Draw line 14 fi-om \' to V with '' curve at Y.Z is half way between K ;ind line 14.

Z to AX is 'j inch.

I 'raw line 13 from L' through .\X into back arm-hole curve with '' ciu've at .\X.

Draw line Id from W to .\.X with K curve at W.(Notice.— For riiund-shouldered forms, or large

shoulder-bl.ades, take out dart at X as per dotted

Place R curve at C, and draw line 8 from ''"^"^- '""" '4 to '^ inch and add to end of shoulder

through X to \ on scpiare.

Draw line ') from I', to C, with P curve at B.

(j is the length of shoulder from 11. (See dottedline.) In this case 7'-_, inches.

as nuich as you have taken out at X.)

I'.X is (i inches below D.

.'sipiare line 17 by line 1. This gives hip line.

I'.X to CX is i_. inch less than from D lo E.

WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK U


Draw Hue IS from E tn CX. size in center front neck fii;ures touching J, then

L!X tci i.)X is -'s inch nu.re than from 1) to T. make dot EM in small hole near hand.

Draw line 19 from T to DX. Draw line 23 from EE to DD.Draw line 20 from V to DX. Place neck size at long-side measure dut Dl). ami

Fnim CX to EX is J^ of lull hip measure and]j,^^^. j ,,„ înîre on line 2? of draft, then draw line

1'4 inches added. 2(^1 from neck-size to neck-size as at I^'F.

In thi.s case the hip is 40. '4 of which is Id, and Draw line 27 with hand pointino- down, from FF1'4 inches added makes CX to EX 11 '4 inches. throuqh |. ihe full length of square.

FX is '_, inch hack of line (,. or the same as L to ,,,, j^^_,

;^^^,,^^.^ j^.,^,^^ pp j,_„. o.,.,-„vn person.

S at waist line. _ ^_ jHI j^ ti,^^, hein-ht , ,f bust from FF.

II is the length of front to waist-line from FF.

11 is .^ inches below 1 1.

GX is one-third distance between FX and EX.

(That is, if there are 3 jiieces in back.) ( »r <livide

into as nianv i)arts as there are pieces in the back., ,

, -,0 10 1 v\ 1 r ->- ,,,-„„•,. •

',,-

,,, ,-, V .,, , , c Siiuare back Imes 28, 2'» and .>() bv hue 2/, usui.g

Draw hue 21 Innn S to (_,\ with o curve at b. ,,,,.,,...,. 0,1 , 10 • fi,; riL;ht-hand eu<1 ot s<|uare.

(X to H\ IS hii) measure m Sihs.1 40 m this -

, - , ,- ,.,. -o r,... . ' , , . ,,,.,i-,. fV 1,1 ll\' Place letl hand corner ot scpiarc at (,(r. with T

case ) It hill IS less than bust, make li.\ to ll.\ ,..,,.,.,.'/

, , o 11- ,0 , r>,,;.. cur\t- resting" on bn>t Ime .i, aiic while m tins posi-from I4 to .'4 mch less than 's hiii. (See Rule

,/T^ ,,

, ,, ' .^

lion draw line ,il and mark at chest measure mhahes as at KK.Measure with taiie line from },! u])ward t(j -}4

inch back of X. place- this .•imoiint at CC, follow

'J

Xo. .1.)

Draw line 22 from V to HX. with 11 curve at U.

I IX to 1\ is same distance as (",X to EX.

Draw line 2i from W to IX. with (> cnr\ e at W.

This completes the 3 jiieces back of line (> to hip-^^ b'alves (2')', in this caset. pivot at CC, .sweep

line. backw;ird from I.E. as |)er line 32.

To extend lines below hi]), begin as follows:1 'hiee half bust measure in 4ths at DD. and right-

riace rule at E. touching CX, then continue h;in<l ci>rner of square Imiching line 32. This lo-

line 18. cales M .M .

Continue line T' bv ])l,icing rule 'j inch in front i 'r.iw line 33 from 1)1) through .MM, then meas-

of T tonchiiv' 1 'X. "re troin (' to () on back, and make XX the same

Sijuare down O inches fr. un CX as to EX, then length from DD (excqit for roiiml shoulders, make

make a dot '',; inch in front of EX as to MX .-md <' I" <> '4 inch more),

continue line 21 from C.X through MX. Scjuare line 34 np 2 inches above line 5. so line

Souare down o inclu-s from IX to |X, .and make 34 crosses K 1\.

a dot .'s inch 111 front of |X .as to KX', ami continue l''='^"<- ''"^ -' "" s<l"are so two small h,,les are ex-

line 23 from IX through KX. actly over luisi l,„c .s. and line 3 on square on line

,,

, . ,,

•. r ,

-^-l- "1 draft. ;ind while in this position draw lowercinare uii Iroin IIX and cro-s-m;irk waist-line at . . ,.,.,,.

' tioiii ;irmnolc curve. Irom k k to 14 m center trout\X. make a dot half wa_\' between X .\ and V. place

rule on this d, 1 tonchiiiL! IIX and continue line 22neck tiuurc'

, ,. , ,, Draw upper tr<nil ariiihole cnr\e b\- iilacni" 14

Scinaiv up from 1 )X and cross-mark waist-hne as ' . ^ .

\- , '

, , , ,• , ,.x- ,cm ve at or ne;ii kk. then continue up to X \. his

at ( )X, then make a dot half \\a\ between ( )X and

\'. place rule on this dot touching DX and con-

tinue line 20.

gi\es Ime .i.s.

Place 17 cui\e '; inch below XX and VJ cur\etouching line 33. and draw line 3(i.

Begin Front of Draft as Follows: Place 17 ciir\e at D I ),, and 19 curve on line 33,

\A is half way between j and K. '""' connect line 3u at center of shoulder.

is 1 inch from .\A lor sizes 30 to 3<) bust, ^'4E to ( )( ) is 1 inch always.

inch up to 42, and >, inch up to 48 bust. (See^^'''''' '•"^' ''' '''"" "" ^" '^' ^îth Pv curve at OO.

Draft \o. 8 for stooping .,r over-erect forms.)'^''>' '-'.ylit-li;"'-! short arm ,,f square on a line with

o 1 1- -)! 1 r - ,1 1

i' -'nd ( )( );then make a dot at waist measure in

S<|tiare down line 24 Vix line .s, the uuder-arm, , ,,,.,

'

,• ,.,,• 4ths as at PP.

measure Ir. >ni 1. 1 > to (^ (. .

,, ,

,. ,. , -,, , ,,,,, ,1 ,

I1

to II IS the ami'iiut we hive for darts. ThisContiiuu' line 24 abo\e 1.1', about 2 inches. ,.., - 1 , , , r ,can oe taken out m 1 or in re darts. In this caseMeasure Iron, p, to (, on back, place ihis amount ,ve have 4'4 inches fo,- darts

'7'"^^ y^' '7^- "'^""'- ^^'"' ''••'"'' l"i"'nig up: follow We will make the s.am run to center of shoulderalon^ biK- .4 to loug-s„le nuasure a. at DD (37 in to match back seam.hakes in this case). 11 , rirv • » • ,, , • , ,

.

I I to (HJ is waist-measure m 8ths (il 1 dart isI'lace hue 2 011 S(|uare on line .s of ilraft. ami neck desired).

WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION r.()( »K 1.^

Make dot Yi inch in front of GO, for liîht fitting

•garments with 1 tlart.

SS is half way ln-twccn IM) and W.Place 1 cnrvc at 1 I with dart curve near X on

square touchiuL; < " •. Jmd draw waist line across

front ]iiece from 11 t<i RK.

Place s(iiiarc with loni; arm touching- SS and RR,

with hand ])iiinting dnwn: while in this position

make a cross-n'ark mi line 30, as at TT.

I'U is half inch in fmut nf TT.

Draw line oX In in SS t.. I'U.

Draw line ,V' fn .in R P tn PI" with '» curve at RR.

11 t(i \'\' is 'i inch niore than 11 tn \\\\.

Draw line 411 frum RR thvnugh \\'.

Sweei> line 41 Inmi RR 1)ackward. pivoting at

IT'.

PR til WW is 4'Iinches, the amiuint wc liad for

darts fnuii I'l ' tn II.

Place 17 curve in line .iO op])osite PP ;then

mo\e svsteiii hack iiiilil it crosses WW mi sweej)

line, then draw line 42. iKgiiming almvt' line .^0.

Draw waist line 4,i fn mi ( )( ) tn WW.V\' tn XX is I

_. inch iiinre lli.in fmm RR in WW.Draw line 44 fmni WW tn XX. wiih S curve at

WW.Measure from CX to KX nii line 17 nf hack (this

])ortirin of hi]) has liien used in ,i hack ])ieces);

])lace this amninit at JP then measure tn \\', place

this aniniim at XX. and mark at half hip-measure

with tapi' line tnuching line 17 as at ^ '^'.

Draw line 4.^ fmm ( )( ) tn >'\', with 11 curx'e at

flf ).

Place rule 's inch in frnnt nf WW. iniichiiig XX.and ci ntiiuie line 44 thrnULih XX.

Square up fmm N"^' anil make cm->;-inark at

waist-line as al I'X; w\\ make a dnt lialf way be-

tween I'X and (X). ihen place rule nn ihis dnt

tniichiiiL; ^ ^'. and cniitimie line 4.^.

If mnrr ripjile is w.inted in skin jmrtinn. set rule

nearer tn piece where more flare is wanted; and if

less ripple is wanted, set rule further aw.ay fmmjiiece. I'ly this plan the fu'lness may he changed

to suit the prevailing styles.

This cnni|ileles the draft.

DRAFT NO. 3-

TvIF-.XSPRl': I'SED FOR TI I IS DR.M'T

1,1 Neck 14 '- Width nf Chest

,16 Bust .S Len.nth nf Piid<_'r:iriii

22 Waist 7 Depth of Arnilmk'

40 Hip l."^ Iau.uIIi nf llack

.^7 Lou.y Side 1,1 Width nf liaek

29 Over Ri.ulit Shoulder 7 '-• Pen.nth nf Seniilder

29 t)ver Left Senulder 15 Size nf Arinlinle

39 Pnnt; Hack 1 1 hUhnw

S Ilei-llt nf linst S Hand

U) Leii.uth of F'rnnt 1<S Length of Sleeve in seam

See SPIRELLA CORSET Ad

ON BACK COVER

WRITE FOR TERMS TO AGENTS

TIGHT WAIST WITH BIAS DARTAND STRAIGHT FRONT.

Draft No. 3.

.Xlwavs use sipi.tre in ilirection ol indicator

—

h.iiid nr ;irri iw .

Draft h.ack s.imv as tight waist \n. _' exce]it the

Scam runs iiiln arnih(ile instead nf center ni slmul-

der.

.\fter dr.afting as far as T, \\ V. and W. nn

waist-line, iii.ake the fnllnw ing chaniês fc .r this

dral't :

( ) tn X is 2 iiudies. more or less as desired. The

hii^her this ilnt is placed, the lniiL;er waisted niie

a|ipe;irs.

Dr.iw line Pi fmm T tn X with \\ curve at T,

^' i^ wlure line ,s cmsses line 13.

Draw line 14 fmm \' tn N', with \ curve .at \'.

/, is hrdi vvav lielween \' ;iiid 1\.

W is ' _. inch fmm Z. nr nearer il desiii'd.

Dr.avv line l.s fmm P thrniiu;h \1, iiitn h.ack .arm-

linlc curve, with S curve at \PDr.-iw line Id finin \\ tn Al, with K curve at \\

( h'nr r.nmil -linulilers, laki- a dart niit al X. as

per dnt teil lines, frnm '4 tn .i,iiudi ; he sure ti 1 make

pnini nf siiK- h' dv al armlmje pist as lii-li ,as hack

is at X, then reshape armlmle nf side hndy as ])er

dntled lines.

.\1 is o inches helnw 1 >,

Sijitare line 17 hy line P This yives liip-liin.-.

.\1 tn \3 is ' _. inch less than fmm I) in I-".

Dr.aw line 18 frnm 1>" tn A.i.

\J tn \4 is .i.s inch ninre tli.aii Imin I) in T.

I )r:iw line 1'' frnm T tn A4.

I )r.avv line 3) fmm \' tn A4.

.\3 tn \,s is '4 nf full hi]) iiieastiic and P :inches

added ; in this case the hip is 4');

'

,nf which is 10 ;

,idd Pj inches, making IP 4inches fmm \,i tn \.s

I r'nr t'Nlreme large hips inw.ard hack, .add 'j inch

tc I ahi ive airi unit. 1

.\o is ', inch hack nf line o. nr -ame as I, m S

at waist line.


A7 is Diic-

there arc 3

many parts

Draw line

A7 to A8this case ).

Draw line

A,S t(. A'»

Draw line

-third distance between Ari and A3, if

])ieces in the back ; nv divide into as

as there are pieces.

21 from S to A7. with 6 cnrve at S.

is '/n of fnll hip iiieasm-e (40 in Sths in

22 from L' to AX, with II eur\e at U.

is same distance as A7 to A3.

23 fri-ni W to A'*, with 6 curve at W.

This completes 3 liack pieces back nf line 6.

Begin Front as Follows :

y\A is half wa}' between j and K.

I'.T! is 1 inch from AA for sizes from 30 to 36

bust. -'4 inch up to 42 and I'y inch up to 48 bust.

(See Draft Xo. 8 for stcKjpino- or over-erect forms.)

Square down line 24 by line 3. the unrler-arm

lueasure from !'. 1'. to CC.

WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION liOOK 15

Then continue line 24 alxiM' I'.l'.. .ilmut 12 inches. pp to II is tin- aiiiouni lor darts (4'4 inches in

Measure from 11 toCinn hack;place this annunit this case). 'Phis caii \)v taken nut in 1 i ir more

at CC (see star), with hand pMimiti-- np follnw darts.

along line 24 to long-side measure in halves. This Place 1 cnrv>- al II and .\' curve at ..r tiear < )( ) :

locates DD. while in this pdsiti'in ilraw line 3S across tnnit

Place line 2 on scpiare. mi line .t nf draft, and pi^.^c. I See ddlted line lr.>m II to CKJ.)

neck-si/e in fn'tit neck tigures loiichmg J, then, „ , j^ j,^ inches helow 1111.

make a dot at small hole near hand. This gives Siptarr hack line ?>'> I>.\ line 27.

]'.]•,. R 1\ is 1 '

I

inches fr. nn |1. iticreasing '4 inch e\'ery

Draw line 25 from h'l-" in DD. 4 -i/vs ahcve 24.

riace neck-size al Inng-sich measure-dot DD, and \mw, ,is we had 4'|mches f. .r ilarts, we take out

line 1 <in square on line 2? nf draft, then draw line niie-thinl oi this ;ini(iunl in the first dart, which

2() froiu neck-size to neck-size, as at l"l*. makes \<\< \,, SS ahmit 1 ' _. inches; the remaining

Draw line 27 with hand pointing down, from FF -U inches, take out in the 2nd dart. (For curved

through Ithe hdl length of s,p,are. I""". "'^'1^- 1^^ ''^"t

••'"•H^^

'S^^,"^='" ""^-tl>"-'l

"Jr.r:-,.-^. i„,-li,.s tro,n l.-I.- lor ..nnvn nrrsons. 'l'^' '"" 'n"""!. •'- .^ I'aft ol the am.mnt .s Used

in citr\ inu Iroiit inside ot line 27 at waisl-lme.GG is 3 inches from l'"l'* lor grow 11 persons.

HI! is height of hnst fn.m I'"!''.

II is length of front to \vai->t-line from h'F.

II is .s inches heh iw 1 1.

TT is h It way between K R and SS.

(j( ) to ri' is the same as II lo TT. unless it

is i)referri_d to slant dart tow.ard hack.Square hack lines 28. 2') .and .^11 l.y line 27. using

^^^.^^^, y^^^^, ^, ,,-,.,,„, ,-^- t|„.,,„j,i, -yy ,],„,.„ io

riuht-hand short arm of s(|uare. ,. ,,,^' line 2N.

I'lace left-hand corner ol s.piare at GG. with 1'|),-.,^^ Ij,,,. 4] f,.,,,,, pp t,, pp^ ^vilh lH curve a»

curve resting cm line .^. While in this iiosition|^ |^

markât chest-measure in halves, as at KK. (See, j^..^^^. ||,,^, ^j ,-,.,,„, ^^•^ j,, ^^^ ^^,j,i, |^ ^,„,.,.^, .,,

line 31.1 s's>.

Pleasure with tape line from .M upward .'4 inch Swie]i waist-line from RR |iast SS. pivoting at

hack of X. place lliis amoimi .it GG. follow along ^-pline 24 to the full over-slioiildrr measure (2'' in

|| ,,, \ \- j^ ^.,|„^^, .(^ jj p, pp ijf fioi,,-c is ll;it

this case), as at LL. in'iroiii).

Pivot at GG. sweep backward from PP. ;is per Praw line 43 from RR to \'V.

line 32. \ \' i,, \\ \\ is same as RR to SS.

Place half bust measure in 4ths at DD ;uid right- Dr.aw line 44 from SS to WW.hand corner of sipiare touching line .^2. which lo- .\ .\ is V) inch from SS. (Make wider if de-

cates .MM. sired.)

Now draw line .^.3 from DD throm;h M.M. ^'H'are line 4.^ by line o. s,, loug arm of s,,uare

Measure from G_l.> () mi back, and make XX *""/>',,, yy ;, ,^ „, ,, ,,,^1 more than T4' tothe same distance Irmu DD. Y^

(For round shoulders make G to () I4 inch fJr.aw line 4o from X.\ to \'Y with 1(1 curve at

more.) XX.Sijuare line 34 u|) 2 imdies ;ibo\e line ?. so line r)r;iw sweep line from XX toward back. pi\(it-

34 cros-es KK. ing :ii^'^'.

Place line 2 on square --o two sm.all holes are 1 )n this line take on) what is left for darts, 2'4

e.xaeilv on bust-line .s, and line 3 on scptare on inches in this case from \X to ZZ.

line 34 of draft; while in this position draw lower Draw line 47 from ZZ to ^"V with K curve al ZZ.

front arndiole cnr\e. from KK to 14 in center (l.ine 47 11111^1 be stretidied to nu'et line 4(i.

)

front neck figures. ZZ to AX is '

înch.

Draw upper front armhole curve, bv placing 14 Draw w .li-t-liiie 4S from ( )( ) to A.X.

curve at or near KK. .and continue up I'o XX. This \\' M I" I'X is -ame as SS to XX.gixes line 3.^. Dr.aw line 4'' from XX to P.X

Place 17 curxe '; inch below- NX. and 1') cur\e

I' nchim/ line 33. 4'hen dr.'iw line 3').

I',.\ to GX is p. inch more than .XX to .\X.

)ra\v line ?n from .\.X to GX.1,1 '^ , - . ,,,, , ,,, r -j-j Me.isiii'e from \,^ to .\.s (lliis i)orlion of hip h;isrIace 1/ cnr\-e ,al DD ;ind I'l cnr\e on line 33 ,.,,,. 1 ,

• ri,.1 .-.„.,,..-, ... 1: I 1 1.1.... been used m .1 back' pieces)

;place tins anionnt at

I I.ancl Conned to line at center of shoulder. ,.,. , ,

. ,,-,,. ,

P to 00 i. 1 inch always.•""' "leasmv lo \ \ ;

place this amount at W W and

,, ,. ,_ - ,„ ,,,, , me.istire to |',.\; idace this amount at (_.X. and letDraw line .1/ trom ( )( ) d \. with R cur\e at ,,.,,. , ,,, . , . ,, . ._ , , ,, .,

- , h.all till- lilt) measure (21) iiudies ni llus case) toueli

V' • , , , , r ,• '""• 17. This nives dot DX.Lay rtghtdiand short arm of square on a line

,,,..,^^, |,,„. ;, ,,.,„„ ,„, ,,, ,)X, ,viih II curve atwith II and. ( )( )

; and make .a dot al w ;iist-nicasnre

in 4lhs. as at PP( )( ).

This com|deles the draft.


14

44

30

5n

3S

27 •-•

28

:v 'e

8

14 'e

DRAFT NO. 4.

MEASl^RE USED FOR THIS DRAFT

17NeckBust

Waist

Hip

Long Side

Over Right Shoulder 8

Over Left Shoulder 17

Long Back

Height of Bust

Lengtli of Front IS'U

Width of Chest

7 Length of Underarm6''i Dejith of Arnihole

13 'e Length of Hack14'-- Width of Back

Length of ShoulderSize of Arnihole

12' I Elbow7^4 Hand

Length of Sleeve in seam

TIGHT WAIST WITH TWO UNDERARMPIECES FOR LARGE FORMS.

Draft No. 4.

This time we will draft pattern for a large liust,

hut very shortwaisted form (commonly known as

short stout figures). Tliis iierson has large shoulder

blades, slightly round shoulders, and very large hips

tnward back, for this reason it is best to use an

extra nnder-arm piece.

Notice— In taking measures always make a note of

fiii'm. See if person is round-shouldered, or stoop-

ing, normal or n\er-erect, large in front belowwaist line, large shoulder blades, large hips towardback, or perhaps very fiat in l>ack lielow waist

line. This in the latter case, would indicate

this form is large in front lielow wâist line. Re-

niemljer, you must init the gocids where the person

re(|nires it—draft to the person's measure and not

the dress they are wearing.

Draw line 1 aliout 1 inch from edge of paper.

L! is always 7 inches from top of paper.

H to C is dc])th of arm-hole.

1! to D is length of back.

Square line 2 Ijy line 1 using left-hand short-armof square.

I) to E is the difference between bust and wafst.

(14 in waist suppression figures, as there was 14

inches difference.

)

Draw line 3 from T-! to E with right-hand short

,-irm of squ.-ire touching R, while in this position

square line 4.

1') to F is neck size (use neck size for liack figures

at right end ).

F to C i~; half inch straight up.

Square line 3 \>y line 1. (See hand on draft.)

II to I is width of back in halves less 1 inch.

II to 1 is l)ust measure in halves. K if half waybetween Tl and J.

K to L is 1 inch wdien extra underarm is used.

Sc|uare down line G from L to M the underarmmeasure.

Draw line 7 straight from E to M, this is the waist

line, which may lie an inch below line 2, or an inch

above, wherever the measure happens to bring it.

Notice just above line 7 is line 2 squared across

from dot D by line 1, this line is used only to square

])oints on hip line.

S(|nare up from I about 8 inches, then down from

1. nâking onl}- a short mark across line 2, N is

where this line crosses waist line.

I'lace s(|uarc 1 inch below N, follow along line

S and mark at over-shotdd.er measure in halves, this

g,ive> (J.

Draw line 9 from G through O to V on square,

vsilli R curve at G.

Draw hue 10 from B to G, with V curve at P..

I') to P is length of shoulder. (See dotted line.)

f to Q is y2 inch, as this amount is taken out at

center of shoulder in dart on account of large should-

er blades.

R is half way between B and H. Make a dot hall

way between Q and I.

R to S is width of back in halves. (See dotted

line.)

Draw line 11 from Q thrcmgh S past line 5 about

1 inch.

E to T ('see star) is waist measure in 4ths with y^

inch added ; this '/2 inch is added only when you

make tu'o underarm pieces.

E to T is what the pieces should measure whensewcil together to be divided into 4 parts for this

draft. Make these divisions on a separate line awayfrom the draft the leiiL'th of space between E and T,

which is 8 inches in this case. Then decide on the

width wanted in the back piece, say lyi inches foi

this size waist. Divide the remainder into 3 equal

parts, and made second piece J4 '"ch less than yj,

wdiich makes second piece 2 inches. 4^4 inches are

left: divide in half which make the two underarm

pieces each 2'4 inches. (If desired after marking

off the back, the remainder can b^ divided equally.)

T to M is the amount we have for darts, which is

also divided on a separate line away from the draft

into 4 parts.

.As this form has large shoulder blades make first

<lart larger than usual, 1 'finches in this case. Thel)ack dart we make from M to U J/ inch. This

leaves l-j4 inches for the other 2 darts divided equal-

ly making "/s inch for each. As divisions are nowcomplete for pieces and darts, begin on waist line

as follows

:

E to V is D/'t inches. V to W is the amount weha\e for first dart 1 '4 inch (see divisions for darts).

\V to X is 2 inches for side-body. X to Y is %inch.

Y to Z is 24 inches for the third piece.

IT to AX is 24 inches which our division gavefor the fourth piece.

WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK 17

As the scam runs into sill. ulik-r, \vf niakf l',X liall Draw ÎmvI line fmni (iX fi.irward about 1><

way Ijctwccn G and ['. iiiclu-s.

Then take out what was adilcd fnmi 1' to Q. MX is 's inch fr.mi C.X.-

Draw line 12 from \' to I'.X. CX is I'j inrhes Draw line hi frcmi V tn IIX with 8 curve at TTX.

above line 3. IX is half wa\- between 1, and line \('-

Draw line 13 from W to CX, with ') curve at CX. Place line 1 im line 11 -if draft (see hand), with

Place N cui've '< inch fmni l',X and draw line 1" back am Imlc cnr\c toiuhinL; (j an<l FX ; now draw

CX. line 14 fr.^ni (j t<. FX.

DX is half way Ijetween L and line 13. DX to I'inish back armliolc fruni I .\ to MX. by placint^

EX is half inch. Fi-. 14 in fmnt neck fi.ijnre- at IX: then draw line

Draw line 15 from X through EX. with K cur\e 17 from l.\ in IIX,

at X. Draw line 18 from IX te Z, wiili \, curve at Z.

FX is l-)4 inches above EX, or l-ld bust measure Draw line 1'* from IX t^ .\.\. with 10 cur\e at IX.

and -Ifi insh added. GX is -Vs inch below FX. as Draw strai.i^ht Hue 20 from {' to L.

this is tile amount t.o hold in on acc( iiiit of lariâ- L to |X is.'s inch: dr:iw line jTI from IX into

shoulder blades. This amount is held in from arm- '!ne 20. with i curve at JX.hole down to notch on first underarm piece. D to I\ X is (\ inches.


Square hip line 22 by line 1.

KX to LX is same as D to E less ^-2 inch.

Uraw line 23 from E to LX.KX to MX is J^ inch more than from D to V.

Draw line 24 from V to MX.Draw line 25 from W to MX.LX to NX is '4 of full hip measure and 2^4 inches

added ; 14^4 inches in this case for double underarm,

the extra inch is the amount we have moved line 6

forward from K.

( )X is half inch from line 6 or the same as M to U.

PX is '4 distance from OX to NX (when there

are 4 pieces in back).

Draw line 2(i from L to PX, with 6 curve at U.Square dotted line 27 by line 2, from half way

between Z and AX : this locates QX.Measure from PX to NX, which is the amount

of hip left for back pieces to he divided in half, 1'4

inch for each overlaj); place the greater portion back

of lines 27 and 30.

RX is 1/2 inch from QX.SX is ^yi inch from OX.r.)raw line 28 from Z to RX. with 6 curve at Z.

Draw line 29 from AX to SX, with H curve at AX.Square dotted line 30 from half way between X

and Y, as at TX.TX to UX is half inch.

TX to XX is -'i inch

Draw line 31 from X to UX, with 6 curve at X.

Draw line 32 from Y to XX, with H curve at Y..AA is half way between J and K.

BB is half inch from AA. (As the l)ust measureis above 42.

)

Square down line 33 from BB to CC, the under-

arm measure. (See star.)

Measure from B to G on back and place this

amount at star. CC, follow along line 33 with handpointing up, and mark at long side measure, 38 in

halves in this case: this locates DD, be sure to con-

tinue line 33 above line 5 about 12 inches.

Place line 2 on square exactly on luie 5 of draft,

and neck size 14 in front neck figures touching J ;

then make "dor at small hole near hand. (See cir-

cled dot HI''. 1

Draw line 34 from EE to DD.Place neck size at long side measure dot DD,

and line 1 on square on line 34 of draft, then drawline 35 from neck size to neck size as at FF.Draw line 36 (see hand) from FF through J the

full length of square.

(t(j is 3 inches from FF,liH is the height of bust from FF.II is the length of front from FF.

}] is 5 inches from II.

Square back lines 37-38-39. using right-hand short

arm of square.

Place left-hand corner of square at GG, with V

curve resting on bust line 5 : while in this position

draw line 40 and mark at chest measure in halves,

as at KK.LL is fs inch from KK, this amount is lost be-

tween lines 48 and 49, which we will make from

center shoulder down.

Square line 41 tip 2 inches above line 5, so it

crosses LL.Place line 2 on scjuare on line 5 of draft, and line

3 on square on line 41 of draft, while in this posi-

tion draw lower front armhole curve from LL to

14 in front neck figures.

Measure from N to -M inch back of O and place

this amount at CC, then follow along line 33 to MM,the full over-shoulder measure, 28 inches for this

measure; this locates MM.P'ivot at CC, sweep backward from MM ; this

gives line 42.

Place half bust measure in 4fhs at D.D and right-

hand corner of square touching line 42, which lo-

cates NN ; then draw line 43 from DD through NN.Measure from G to P on back, and make OO the

same length from DD. As we will take out a dart

at center shoulder, make PP half way between (30

and DD. QQ is 1 inch from PP. RR is 1 inch

from 00.Draw line 44 with 14 curve at or near LL, and

upper front armhole curve at RR.Draw line 45 from RR to QQ, with 17 curve at

RR.Draw line 46 from DD to PP, with 17 curve at

DD.M to SS is 1 inch.

Draw line 47 from SS to JX, with R curve at SS.

Place I curve at II, with dart curve at or near N,

on square ; now draw line across front about 3

inches.

Lay right-hand short arm of square on a line with

II and SS, then mark at ;4 waist measure lessJ^^

inch as this half was added to the back pieces; this

locates TT.TT to II is the amount for darts (3^4 inches in

this case).

SS to TT is amount for 3 front pieces, divide be-

low draft as you did the back pieces on a separate

piece of paper ; as the amount is 7 inches we makeback piece lA inch less than half, this leaves 4 inches

for the other two pieces, this divide in half whichmakes front 2 inches and side piece 2 inches.

As the pieces are divided make UU 2 inches fromIL

Place long arm of square at UU and PP, whilein this position make a cross mark at line 39; this

gives VV.^^'W is half inch in front of VV.

WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTK )N P>( »< )K 1'*

Draw line 48 from PP to WW.Draw line 4"^' from Qn into line 5.

Draw line 30 from UU to WW, with 9 curve at

VV.Sweep from UU toward hack pivoting at WW.UU to XX is I'n inch, or a tritle less than half

the amount we had for darts.

Draw line 51 from XX to WW, with RB curve 1

inch above WW.Lay square touchini.;- XX and SS ; no wdraw line

52 across second piece about 2 inches, then \'Y 2

inches from XX.ZZ is 2'.'! inches aliove line 5 on line 41.

Draw line 33 from ZZ to YY, with T. cur\e at ZZ,

SS to .Al is .^ inches, the amount we had left for

third piece.

Draw line 34 from SS to Al.

A2 is where line 30 touches line t<i.

Draw line 53 from Al to A2, with 17 curve at A2.

JJ to .\3 is '4 inch more than II to UU.Draw line 36 from UU to AS.

A3 is '4 inch more than from UU to XX.Draw line 57 from X.X to .\4.

A4 to .\3 is I J inch more than .\ X to YY.Draw line 58 from YY to A5.

A5 to A6 is }< inch less than YY to .A.1.

Draw line 59 from Al to A6.

Measure from LX to XX on line 22 (this portion

of hip was used in 4 back pieces), which is 14;'4

inches in this case; |)lace this amount at Jj al front,

then measure to .A3, place this amount at .\4, and

measure to .A5, place this amount at .\6, and meas-

ure across to line 22. one-half hip measure. 23 inches

in this case: this locates A7.

Draw line 60 from SS to .\7. with H curve at Sv^.

'I'his comjiletes front.

Necessities for Tailors and Dressiiial(ers.

I 'Isl^l ''"^?tfW.âCiUi| I M 1 1 1,U M ' 1

1

li| 11

1

1

1l,L| M

1

1

1

1

Competent People Wanted

To nian;ii.i"r l)ranch school.s in everv oitv

or town in the U. S. Write for terms to

A<.,rents.

WEIDEL & WEBSTER383S-.VS40 Olive St..

Dei)t, T. St. Louis, Mo.

SEE SH.APIRO AD


DRAFT NO. 5 K is half way l)etween H and J.

MEASURE USl.:i) F(.R THIS DRAFT .

^'I"^''^' ''"[' ^'•>' ''"^^

f*''-"'"

^^ ''7"' '^>- '''^^'"^

ni;nt-naii(l siiort arm r>t square on line 5.

13 NL-ck 15 '2 Width of Chest k to 1, is the under-arm measure.3S Bust S'a Length of Underarm p,..,^^. ,vaist-line from E to L.

n Waist 6-4 Depth of Armhole S(|uarc line 7 from 1 upward about 8 inches and

4l '-• Hip 15 'e Length of Back from 1 dcwn. making; a cross mark at waist-line as

3.S 'j Long Side 14 Width of Back at M.;>()'-• Over Ri-ht Shoulder 7 '4 Length of Shoulder x.nv place sr|uare 1 inch below waist line at \l,

,^()''i Over Left Shoulder 16 Size of Armhole with hand ])ointin!^ u|) : follow aloni;- line 7 and mark

40 Long Back 11 '4 Elbow at (i\ er-shnulder in hahes. as at N.

8-'4 Height of Bust 7 ''i Hand Dr.iw line S from G thrc.ugh N to V on square.

16'-> Length of Front 17''i Length of Sleeve in seim with R curve at O.

• Oraw line '' from I', to O. with V curve at R.

TIGHT FITTING COAT WITH CURVED (J is length ot shnuhkr from B. ( See dotted line.)

FRONT. 1' is Vs inch froiu O.

O is half way between G and ( ).

Draft No. 5. R is -js inch from O; this is <lart taken out to

.Ml measures are ajiplieil the same on coats or tighten hack armlmle.

waists. ReuKMuber after yen have learned Shirt- S is half way bet ween Band il.

waist d.raft am! Tight-waist draft X". 2. \'ou have .Make a dot half wa\- between 1' ;md I.

the fi>undalion lor everything in wai-ts. After you S to T is width of back in halves. (See dotted

have mastered the two drafts, you must learn to line.)

place seams in different positions, which go toward Draw line 1() from P through T, past line .S al)OUt

making the many styles; also learn to reproduce 1 inch,

from different fashion books. By so doing _\du will Oravv line 11 about 7 inches long and J2 inch be-

soon be able to originate stales of your own. low line .^ ; this is to deepen armhole for coats.

This coat is drafted similar to Draft .\o. 2 with a \i to U is waist measure in 4ths; this is wdiat the

few c.xce])ti<ins. Make armhole ' _. inch wider and pieces should measure when sewed together, 53.-2

deeper. Owing to the large amount we had for inches for this size.

darts we made a curved front instead of straight U to L is what is left for darts. (V/f, inches in

front. tlii^ case.)

Notice.—To avoid coat from overlapping at Ix't- Notice.— It is bes. to <livide ])ieces and amount

tom we luove center front line toward back, thus for darts on a separate |ilace away from the dpafl

making a smaller amount for darts in coats than on before you beL;in to mark them on waist line,

waists. Now, as we have 5^/2 inches for pieces, divide as

.Always place scjuare on draft as indicated liy Hand follows:

or Arrow. Draw line .^'S inches long and make back or first

Draw line 1 about 1 inch from edge of pai>er. ])iece l-ldth of waist measure, or width desired.

B is always 7 inches from to]) of ])a])er. (See lOtlis fni division side of square.)

B to C is depth of armhole. This rule applies only to tight-fitting coats with

B to 1) is length of back to waist line. 3 ])ieces in l)ack.

»Si|uare line 2 by line 1, using left-liand short arm .\s we ha\'e used \-)i. inches in hack piece, we have

( f square. -^'1inches left for the other 2 jjieccs ; this divide in

\\'hile in this ])osition mark at 1(1 in waist sup])res- half and make third piece 'ij more than half, or

sion tignres which is the difference between bust 2'| inches in this ease,

and waist. .Vow. as we have 3'/<5 inches for darts, make third

Draw line 3 from B to E, using right hantl end <if 'lart from L to \V -^^ inch (see Rule \o. 2) : this

square at 1'.; while in this position stpiare line 4. leaves 2' 2 inches to Ite divided into 2 darts of \]/\

ii to I^ is neck size pins 'i inch, using neck size inches each. .\s our pieces are now dix'ided, l)e-

fuMires at ri.Liht-hand end of s(|uare. (For coats w" .""'" '^n waist-line and mark first piece E to V \y»

add '4 inch more than neck size.) inches.

F" to G is 'j inch straight up. L I0 \\' is -^'s inch.

Square line 3 by line 1. (See direction of hand.~i I^raw line 12 from W to 14 inch back of K. with11 to I is width of liack in halves less 1 inch. L curve at \\'.

It to J is bust measure in halves. W to X is 2', inches for third piece.



X to Y is 1'4 inches, the amount for second dart.

V to Z is the amount we had for first dart.

Draw straight line 13 from V to Q.

AX is 13/ inches above line 5.

Draw line 14 from AX to Z, wtih 9 curve at .AX.

Draw line 15 from R to AX, with N curve at R.

BX is half way between line 14 and Iv.

CX is half inch in front oi BX.

Draw line 16 from Y throui;h CX about 1 inch

above, or half bust measure in 16ths, with K curve

at Y ; this locates DX.EX is 14 inch in front of DX.Draw line 17 from X to EX with 8 curve at EX.

Draw line 18 by placini; line 1 on square so back

armhole curve touches P and DX, and line 1 exactly

on line 10 of draft.

Draw line 19 from EX to 14 in front neck figures

touching line 11.

EX is 6 incites below D.

Sc|uare line 20 by line 1.

EX to GX is ]/2 inch less than from D to E.

EX to HX is fs inch more than frcmi D to V.

Draw line 21 from E to GX straight.

Draw line 22 from V to HX straiglit.

Draw Inic 2,^ from Z to IIX straight.

GX ti> IX is '4 (if full hip measure and 1'4 inch

added, 11 'j inches for this size; this jjortimi of jii])

is used in liack pieces.

IX is \s inch back of line 6. or the same as L to

W at waist-line.

IX to K.\ is Ys distance from JX to IX. (This

rule is used when there are 3 pieces in back.)

D.iaw line 24 from \V to KX. with fi curve at W.KX to l.\ is hip measure in eighth-^. (See fvule

No. 5.)

Draw line 25 from X to LX, with H cur\-e at X.

EX to MX is same as KX to IX.

Draw line 2h from Y to MX, with (> curve at Y.

To extend coat below hip line begin as follows:

Continue line 21 by jilacing rule ':; inch back of

E, touching GX.Continue line 22 l)y |)lacing rule '4 inch in front

of V touching HX.Square u\) from HX and cross mark at waist-line

as at NX. tlien place rule half way between NX and

Z and touching HX continue line 23.

Square up from EX, cross mark waist-line as at

OX, then ])lace rule half way between X and C)Xand toucliing LX continue line 25

Square down 6 inches from I\X as at \\'X.

SX is ^)-<t, inch in front of \\"X ; continue line 24

by placing rule touching KX and SX.

Sqtiare down 6 inches from MX as at UX.VX is y?, inch in front of UX ; continue line 26

l)y placing rule touching MX and VX.Notice.— If more ripple is desired, place rule near-

er to piece; if less ripple is wanted place rule farth-

er away from piece.

FRONT OF TIGHT-FITTING COAT.

Draft No. 5.

A.A. is half way between J and K.

BB is 3/4 inch in front of AA. (See Draft No. 8

for stooping or over-erect forms.)

CC is under-arm measure, square down from BB,

using right-hand end of square on line 5.

Continue line 28 above BB about 12 inches.

Measure from B to G on back, place this amount

at CC, follow along line 28 and mark at long-side

measure in halves, 38^2 for this size; this locates

DD.Place line 2 on square on line 5 of draft, so neck

size in front neck figures touches J, then make a dot

at small hole near hand ; this gives EE.

Draw line 29 from EE to DD.

Place neck size at long-side measure dot DD, and

line 1 on square on line 29 on draft (with hand point-

ing up). Now make a dot at small hole near hand

and another dot at neck size in front neck figures;

tills locates FF and GG.Square line 30 by line 29.

HH is '2 inch in front of GG; this 'e inch is added

on coats to make the armhole wider.

Measure with tape line from M '4 inch back of

N, place this au'ount at CC, follow along line 28

mark at full over-shoulder measure as to II, 30j4

in this case.

l'i\-ot at CC, sweeji backward from II aliout 7

inches. This gives line 31.

Place one half bust measure in 4tlis on 1)1 ) and

right-hanii corner of S(|uarc touching line 31 ; while

in this position draw line 32.

Measure Irom G to ( ) on liack and make KKsame length from DD.EE is half way between DD and KK.MM is half inch back of LE.

NN is half inch back of KK.Nctice.— Take out !> inch dart from EE to MM

on sizes 3(i to 40 bust, ^'4 inch from 40 to 44 bust,

and 1 inch all above.

Ito ( )( ) is one inch. (See rule for tight-fitting

coats No. 3.

1

Square down line 33 from ( )0, by line 5. (See

direction of hand.)

!'P is the under-arm measure from OO.PP lo (J(J is difference between bust and waist

suppression figures, 16 in this case.

Draw line 34 from OO through QQ.RR is height of bust from HH.Draw line 35 from HH to RR.

SS is length of front to waist-line from HH.TT is 5 inches from SS.

Square lines 36, 37 and 38 by using right-hand

end of square.

WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK 1^3

L'U is 3 inches frciii IIH. Draw liiu- 33 froni ( )4 to ( )7, with S curve at (_)4.

I'lace k-ft-haiul corner (if s<|uarc at VI'. with P Measure Ir.uu (".X t.. IX (as tliis i>.irtion of hip

curve touching line 11; while in this position draw has heen use.l u, 3 hack pieces), place this amount

line 30 to che;t measure it, halves ; this locates VV. < 1 1' -' i''^:''-- '" ""^ ^'•'-•'J't '

'f'

an,l u,easure to()h,

,. ,, . ,.,- iilace this amount at I >/ . auil let ' j hip measure-quare up hue 40 hy Ime 1 1 so it crosses \ \ .

|^_^^|^ ._^^.,^ ^^^,^,^,^1 ^^^^^^,,^ ,,,^^. _,,,. ,|^,^ |,,^.^^^^,^ ^^^

Place line 2 on square exactly o„ Ime 1 ot draft^^^..^^^ ^^^^^^ .^^ .^.^^^^^ ^^^^. ^^^ ^ ^^^

and line 3 on square exactly on hue 4(1; then draw^,^^^^^^^ ,^^^^,

..,^^. ^^,.^^,.^^^. ^.^^,^, ,^ ^,^^,,^ .^^ f,.,,,,^

Inwer front arndiole curve from \ \ to 14 m front__^j , ,_|^ i,,„chiu;; ( )?'. then .haw Ime In ,m ( )7 .lown.

neck hgures.^ ^

Sqnare tqi from ( )S and make cross mark at waist-

Draw line 41 hy placiii- 14 curve at or near VV]j,^^. .,^ .^^ |.x. ilu-n |ilace rult half way between WW

and continue U]i to XX with u]i]ier front armhole ^,,,1|i\^

I. inching OS, conliuue line ?<k

curve. Pines 4(. an<l 33 are center front i>f coat and just

Place 17 curve '4 inch lielow NN and 19 curve uieet, therefore \<> Imtlon the coat we must have a

touching- line 32: then draw hue 42. lap. a.- this coal is siu.L;ie-lireasted, ti.L;ht-tittiiii;", add

Place 17 curve at DD and 1'* curve on line 32 '; inch outside of center front line; this is strictly

ti,^ht-fittin- ; the luittons must he about an inch

ajiart : for coat that is iMt ([uite sri tis:;lit add 1 inch

I lutside I if center fri nit.

PR to ( )'' is '4 inch. As SS is the same distance

friiiii ^'^' we will use line from waist dnwn.

ami draw line 43.

WW is 1 inch from L.

1 )raw line 44 from WW to K. with P cnr\e at

WW.Place I curve at SS and dart cnr\-e X, at or near ._ . , ,, , . ^>- ,, j ,,,,,.,, .,, , ,0l)raw line .^/ Irom (

)'' m ^^, with L cur\ e at i »"'.

W \\ ; tlien draw line 4.-i across Iront about .1 niches., ,, ,1, , . .,» . , ,11 if 1,,

. . •, -- Xo\\ diciile where Mm want the coat to mil. It to

P ace ntrht-haiK end ot sfuiare on a line with hS n . r n . , r 1 , ,,,,1. ., 1 t 1 :„,-1t ;,, fr,,t,i•^'. . roll to tuliest iiart ol bust make a dot 1 nun in it out

and WW; then mark at waist measure m fourths,,-,,-] ,| ,.,„,.,( ,|; which w slraiLjht mt . m a line with

as at XX.XX to SS is the amount for darts, G inches in

Ime ,i_

This is width of collar stand.this case; as this would be too much to take out in

,j,.,^^^, |,,.^..,,. |,„^. f,.,^,„ , ,,, throu-h UV> about 3

one dart, we make a curve fr<mt and take ijut a ]iur- juches.

tion in front, 's inch for every inch >-on have for darts, ( ) 1', to i K' is -( inch more than from P. to Ci on

as we have fi inches, SS to YY would he ''4 inch. back.

Draw line 46 from RR to VY. with P curve at S.piare line 3S liy break line.

j;>j^ ( )C to ( )D is I'M inches or width of collar de-

'S'^' to ZZ is waist measure in eiijhtlis, less . inch""*-'

. , , , r ,• -o: , , ^ , ,

'SpriiiL; collar '

,mch back of line .sS.

tor titdit-htting varments with one ilarl. ,-.' ,• ,. -.. ,•.. ,,, . ,,' t i it? 1 ;,i,-i,- '^ '^. Continue line .-^.S Irom ( )L to ( )h, 1 ineli.

Place lono- arm ot square touchm- PL and ZZ,j )^,,^^. |j„^. 3,, ,-,.,„„ ,

,p- ,,, Dp.with haml pointim^ down; then make a cross mark

( )p j^ \<^ imq, f,-,,„, 1,,^. ,^,(1 ,,n break line.

at line 38; this gives ()1. ( )H is l', inch in front of break line on line 30.

( )2 is half inch in front of DP Sipiare line (;l) b\ break line from ( )F forward.

Draw line 47 from LP to {)2. ' 'h' t" < '<• is 2 inches f.ir all sizes alio\e 3o biis^t

Draw line 48 from ZZ to ( )2, with curve at ZZ. a^ "e do not use the small dart on sizes below 30

Draw line 49 from AIM to line 3; this is the dart ''";:,V , , , ,• r

^ , ^ r , 1, 1 r ,-i-. \-xT Place rule on (>ll and ( )( ., then draw line fromwe take out tor wha was added troni kkto XX.

i iir *i ,,| ()("

Sweep line 30 from ZZ backward pivoiing at 02., „;

,,','(",

, j^)',

^ i„^q, ,)[^- j^ i^îf i„^.), i,.,,.]^ ,,f

ZZ to ( )3 on sweep line is what was left for darts, ()()

5' ; inches. Draw line ol from ( )'' t.i ( )1. with M curve at ( >9

Draw' line 51 from ( )3 to about 1 inch abo\e line 'Pak-e out ' _• inch ilart back of < >H.

38 with 17 curve opposite ( )2. Draw hues (i2 and o3 slanting dart 1 inch back

Make notch 2 inches above an<l 2 below ( )2 on "^''• '"il<i'ig 'lart 3', inches .leeiK

front piece, then make lower notch on secnn.l piece |-'"^' "' " "''"' ''','-,"' ''" }"]'' ''-•. .

,

., . , , ^,

,.,.,.,'. Place ( ) cur\e at DD and draw hue fi4 to top ot4'; inches from top notch, as this '4 inch is hehl in . , , -, '

between 2 front notches on tight-fitting coats.''"jMa'ce" riv'ht'-hand corm^r <.f square at OK and

Now drop waist-line '4 inch below f )3 as to (J4. ^|„„-t arm <if s,|uare t. niching ( )P., while in this po-

Draw waist-line 32 from WW to 04. sition ilraw front edge of collar.

TT to 05 is same as SS to >'Y. ( )K to ( )| is 1 '

, inch.

05 to 06 is 1.4 inch more than 'S'Y to ZZ. Draw lim- h3 frinu ()| to (">D. with 23 curve at

Draw line 53 from YY through ( )5. OPDraw Hue 34 from ZZ through 06. With O c.iir\t' at DD draw line hh to < )1\.

Of) to 07 is 'A inch more than ZZ to 03. -M'!''.^ length i.f co.at desired from waist line down.


DRAFT NO. 6. As we wish to place the scam nearer to the arm-hiilc, make I' to () one and one-half inches.

MEASURE USED FOR THIS DRAFT (j t,, R is '_, nTch. the am. unit we a.lded from O13 Neck 14 'e Width of Chest *" ''•

36 Bust 8 Len-th of Underarm ^ '^ ''»'<' ^^''X 'between 11 an,] H.

22 Waist 7 Depth of Armhole Make a dnt half way lietween P and I.

40 Hip 15 Length of Back ? ^" T '^ width of ])ack in halves. (See dotted

37 Lon- Si.le 13 Width of Back l'"<-'>

29 Over Rish.t Shoulder .7 '-> Len.^th of Shonldur I 'raw line 1(1 fr-un I' throu-h T a1)ont 1 inch be-

29 Over Left Shoulder 15 Size of Armh..k- low line 3.

39 Lon.L;' liack 11 F^lbow Draw line II lialf inch lielow I and K and s inches

S Ilei.yht of Bust 8 Hand loni;'. This is to deepen the armhole for coats only.

16 Len,t,rth of Front 18 Length of Sleeve in seam Place line 1 on square exactly on line 10 of draft,

so the upper part of back armhole curve- touches P

SEMI-FITTlKlG OR HALF-FITTING COAT. ••""! 1'" '" '"'"t "cck figures touches line 11 about

1 inch back of line fi. Xow ilraw line \2 from P to

line 11.

F. to U is the waist measure in fourths. 22 in this

case.

Draft No. 6.

Notice.—The main construction lijies are drafted

the same and measures applied the same on all coats As the coat is iialf-httini;. nâke dot \' half wayand waists. between U and L. (For •>4 fittini;- coat make dot

Make draft same as for tiL;ht-httin,i;- coat until half way between I' and \'.|

you conic to line \o. 2. V to L is the amount for darts we ha\-e for half-

D to R.\ is 14 in waist supjiression figures, as fitting- coat,

the htiures on s.piarc are for ti-ht-fittin^ sarmenis. I. to W is one-third distance between L ami V.

and as we want this coat lialf-httin". make h", half 'I'lii'^ leaves 1 inch f,ir the other dart,

way between. I b"or -'4 httint; coat make dot half i'raw line 13 from W to X. which is 1, inch hack

way between F. and EX.) of K. with \. curve at W.Draw line 3bvplacin- ri-ht-hand corner of IC t<. \' is the amount we have for back pieces.

s(piare at 1',; then draw straiLdit line from W thnmoh li t" '^' '^ ""^' '"^''i '^'^s than half way between F

I'., as this coat has no seam in center back. Then •""' ^'•^'^" '"-' '"•"'^' """*-" "'' ''^^'^ '^^ desired. (If

square line 4 while in this position and mark at'lot N is put at center of shoulder move <|ot Y back

half inch.)

^ to 7. is same as V to W. or the amount left fo

<lart.

neck size and add '4 inch for coats; this i;i\es F.

F to Ci is ' J inch straight up.

Square line 5 bv line 1., ,,.,^^. ,,„^. ,4 ,„-.,, j,-i,t fn.m V to R

II to1 is width of back in hahes less I inch. ,\X is 1 ' _. inches above line 5.

II ti> J is Inist measure in hahes. Draw line 1.^ from .\X to / witli ') curve at AX.K is half wax- between. Draw line lo fi'om (J to AX, with X cur\e at (J

Square line from K down, usini; riuhl-hand short ^'^ ''' '* inches 1)elow D.

arm of scpiare on line .S. Square line 17 by line 1; this gi\-es hip lin V

I, is the umler-arm measure from K.P>X to CX is the same as D to E.

Draw waist-line fn.ni F to p.^'^ ''' '---^ >"ch back of CX.

S.|uare up and down fro,n I. makin- cross mark^^^^' ^" ^^ ''^ one-fourth ,,f full hi,, measure and

at waist line as at AI''- ""-^'^ ad.led

(1 1

' .. niches for this draft).

Tii^ 1 , 1 1 -V, ,, , ,. - '"'^ '^ ^-' '"'"li back of line C> or the same as L toI lace scpiare 1 nicli below M, tollow alon^ line ^ w '

and mark at N the ..eer-shoulder measure in halves, ,tv- 1 ir , ^ r^s- , -n^-xi ,\ II \ is half way between C.\ and FX.-> 111 tills case.

1 ^- .'

r

J-. 1 .\ IS '4 inch in front of HX.

Iraw line S trou, C. tlinmoh \ ,0 V on square, ,,,,,,. ,;„, |,^ f,.,,^ ^^ to IX, with r, curve at W.Willi K cur\e at (. i\' , 1 - \- • 1 , 1 .- t^ ,-IX to KA IS 1 inch more than from E to \

'"'^^' '"'^' '' "'"'" '• '" '• ^îl'i 1' '^-"'•ve at P Measure from |X to KX. place this amount inP. to < ) ,s len-th ot shouhler touchin.o- line 8 (Sc fnmt of IX ; then measure toward back and make

''"'J*:'''"'^'

.WX the same distance as fnnii DX to FX (\U/.

P IS I4 inch from( ), or the amount to take out in inches in this case) : square up fn,m WX as p. XX.

''''*'''•r>'raw line 19 from Z to WX, with H curve at Z.


09}

^0


Draw line 20 from Y to KX, with S curve at Y.

Continue line 19 by placing square touching WXand half way between NX and Z.

For fuller skirt move square nearer Z—for less

fullness farther from Z.

Square down from IX and make cross mark 6

inches down as at RX.SX is '4 inch in front of RX.

Extend line 18 from IX through SX.

Continue line 20 by placing rule '4 inch in front

fif V touching KX.

FRONT OF SEMI-FITTING COAT.

Draft No. 6.

AA is half way between j and K.

BB is 1 inch in front of AA ( h<r all sizes .^0 to 36

bust, 34 inch up to 42 bust, and '_• inch all aliove

42 up to 48 bust.)

Square down frmn P. I' to CC, the tmder-arm

measure, this gives line 22.

Continue line 22 up thn.u-h 111'. al»put 12 inches.

Measure from B to C, im back, ])lace this anmunt

at CC, follow along line 22 and mark at long side

measure in halves. (37 for ibis draft.) This gives

DD.Place line 2 i^n square exactly on line 5 of draft,

so neck size in front neck figures touches J ;then

make a dot at small hole near hand; this gives EE.

Draw line 25 from EE up to F)!).

Place neck size at long side measure ddt DD, and

line 1 on square on line 23 of draft (with hand ])iiint-

ing u])). Now make a dot at small lu'lc near hand

and another dot at neck size in front neck figures

This locates FF and GG.S(inare line 24 by line 23.

IIH is '2 inch in front of GG.

j to II is D2 inches. (See rule No. 3 for half-

fitting coat.)

S(-|uarc down from II for line 25.

J J is the under-arm measure from II. (See hand

on draft.)

JJ to KK is the difference between bust and waist

in waist suppression figures, mark at 14 in this case.

Draw Vine 26 from II through KK, this gives cen-

ter front line.

Place left-hand corner of square at Pill with handpointing down. Now move square un.til height of

bust triuches line 26; this gives PL: whik in this

position clraw line 27 from llll to LL.(JO is 3 inches from HIPMM is the length of front mcasuic to waist line

from IIH.

NN is 5 inches from MM.Square back lines 28, 29 and 30 by line 2(), uîng

right-hand short arm of stpiare.

Place left-hand corner of square at OO, with Pcurve touching line 5; now square back line 31 and

mark at chest measure in halves as at PP.

Square up line S2 by line 5, so line 32 crosses

PP.Place line 2 on square on line 11 of draft, and line

3 on square on line 32 of draft. While in this posi-

tion draw lower front armhole curve from PP to

14 in front neck figures.

Measure from AI >>4 inch back of N, place this

amount at CC, follow along line 22 and mark at

over-shi,ulder measure in hahes, 29 in this case;this

gives 00.Pi\i>t at CC, and make a sweep backward from

00. This gives line 33.

L'lace one half bust measure in fourths on DD and

right-hand corner of square touching line 35. Whilein this position draw line 34.

Measure fmui G to (J on back and make SS the

same length frnm 1)1).

Draw line 3,^ i)y placing 14 curve at or near PP;then continue upper front armhole curve up to SS.

Place 17 cur\e '4 inch below SS and 19 curve

touching line 34, draw line 36.

Place 17 cur\e at DP.) and 19 curve touching line

,54, draw line 37.

Measure from P to on back and make TT the

same from SS.

P to CD is 1 inch.

Draw line 38 from UD to K, with R curve at UU.Place 1 curve at MM and dart curve N at or near

W. Then draw line 39 across front about 3 itiches.

MM to \'\' is waist measure in eighths, for half-

fitting ;in(l single-brenstcd coats. Make JA to 1 inch

wider for double-breasted.

Place long arm of square touching TT and V V(with hand pointing down), make a cross mark at

line 30; this gives \\'W.

X\ is ij inch m front of WW.Draw line 40 from TT to XX straight.

Draw line 41 from V\^ to XX, with 9 curve at

VV.Sweep line 42 backward from \'\', pivoting at XX.Place riglit-hand arm of square on a line with MM

and W. While in this position mark at waist

measure in fourths; this gives YY.Y\' to AIM is what we have for darts in a tight-

fitting coat (3^^ inches in this case). As this is

half-fitting take out one-half of this amount. (For

'4 fitting take fnit -'4 of the amount.)

.\s the full amount for darts was 5^ inches, makeVV to ZZ 2~f. inches on sweep line 42.

Draw line 43 frcjui XX to ZZ, with 17 curve at

XX.NN to 01 is '4 inch more than MM to VV,Draw line 44 from VV through Ol.Draw waist-line 4,^ from UU to ZZ.01 to 02 is a half inch more than VV to ZZ.Draw line 46 from ZZ to 02.

Draw waist line 45 from P'U to ZZ.

wb:idel's instruction IJOOK

03 is full amount of dart from Ol. (See large

circled dot.)

Place the rule '4 inch in front of ZZ touching ( )2,

then extend line 46 below hip line.

Measure from DX to T^'X as this portion of I he

hip has been used in two back pieces. Place this

amount at XX and measure td (Jl : place this

amount at 03 (see lariê circled dot) ; then measuretowards back and let half hip measure touch linel/;

this skives ( )4.

Square n|i from ()4 by line 17 and crriss markline 2 as at ( )X, move edge of sipiare t<j half waybetween OX and UU touching ( )4 ; cuntinue line 47.

The coat as drafted just meets at center frdiit

lines, but as we want a lap add acc(Trding to sl\lc

wanted.

For single-l;)rcasted coats that buttini (hiMugli

add 1 inch for lap.

For fly-front coats adil I'j inches.

For double-breasted co its aild 2 or more inches.

Draw lines 29 and .it) forward 1 inch each; this

gives ( )5 and 06.

X'ow decide where you want the lapel of coat to

roll. If to roll to fullest ]iart of bust make a dot

1 inch in fmnt of 1)1). as to ( )7 which is straight

out iin a line with line 34.

This is the width of the collar stand.

Draw break line 49 from ( )(i through 07.

From U7 to OS is ^4 '"'-"h more than from Bto G.

,^(|u.ire line 5<i) by line 4*'.

iMi.m ( ),S to ( )0 is wiilth of collar desired, (l;'^

inches in this casi'. )

Spring collar '4 inch back of ( )9.

Continue line .So one inch back of lireak line \n ]^X.

Draw line 51 from LX to DD.MX im line 4'' and PX on line 24 are 1' 4 inches

from where these two lines meet.

Si|uare line .s2 by line 4').

(JX is 2 inches from MX.h"or jjointed re\ere continue line .^2. 2"i inches

or more to TX.Draw line ,^3 from ( )(> to TX, with | cur\e at

TX.Draw short line from [)\ to PX.Take out half inch ilarl back of PX.Place sipnare 1 mch back of J. and ilr.aw front

dart line ^' ^ inches long ficim PX to L'.X.

l)r;uv back ilart line from I'X n|> the same length.

Place Q curve at DD and draw line .S4 to topof back (hirt line.

'j'his dart is used only on si/es from 3^1 up.

Pkice corn'M' of scuiare ' .. iiu'h b.ick of ( )\'. right-

hand short arm touching ( >7. \\hile in this posi-

tion draw front e<lge of collar, I's inidies wide,more or less, as desired, to \''X.

Draw line 5.^ from V'X through ()9, 2?i curve at

\X.With () cur\-e at DD dr;iw lower edge iif collar to

'2 inch back of QX.

Blftbrl c^ 31clistfr

LADIES' TAILORING COLLEGE3838-40 OLIVE STRIiKT ST. LOUIS, MO.

Special prices to Dressmakers and Tailors using our Patterns.

SPF.CIAL MEASURE SHEET.To use cut "lit the .square.s and write tlirougli the holes.

NECK BUST WAIST HIP


DRAFT NO. 7

MEASURE USED FOR THIS DRAFT

13 Neck 14 e

36 Bust 8

22 Waist 7

40 Hip 15

37 Long Side 13

29 Over Ris'ht Shoulder 7 'e

29 Over Left Shoulder 15

39 Long Rack 1

1

8 Height of Bust 8

16 Leugth of Front 18

Width of Chest

Length of Underarm

Depth of Armhnle

Length of Back

Width of Back

Length of Shoudler

Size of Annhole

ElbowHandLength of Sleeve in seam

DOUBLE-BREASTED BOX COAT WITHSHAWL COLLAR.

Draft No. 7.

This coat hangs very loosely from the shoulders

and under-arni and is used mostly for opera coats,

hut can he used for street wear if made in the short-

er length. If more ripple is desired curve center

hack scam as per dotted lines.

l.eL'.in draft by drawing line 1 about 3 inches

irnm eilge of paper.

i; is always 7 inches from top of paper.

B to C is depth of armhole measure.

F, to D is length of back to waist-line.

Square line 2 backward by line 1.

V) to E is '4 inch. (Can be made nicire if de-

sired.)

Draw line 3 from F, thronght E straight.

S<piare line 4 by line 1.

F. to F is neck size for back and .'4 inch added

for coats.

F to G is '/ inch straight up.

Scpiare line S by line F

C to It is width nf back measure in halves less 1

inch.

C to I is bust measure in halves.

Iis half way between C and I.

Square down line 6 from J to K the under-arm

measure.

Draw waist line 7 from D through K.

Square up and down from 11 making cross mark

at waist line. This gives line cS and dot L.

Flace stpiarc 1 inch below L. follow along line S

(see hand) and mark over-shr ulder measure in

hnlves; this gives dot M.

Draw line 9 from G through M to V on square,

with R curve at G.

Draw line 10 from F. to G, w'th F curve at P..

N is the length of shoulder measure from B. (See

dotted line.)

is half wav between B and C.

Make a dot half way between N and H.

O to P is width of back measure in halves. (See

dotted line.)

Draw line 11 from N through P, aljout 1 inch be-

low line 5.

Draw line 12 half inch below H and J, about 7

inches forward.

Place line 1 on square on line 11 of draft, so the

upper part of back arndiole curve touches N, and

the lower part of armhole curve touches line 12,

now draw line 13.

is 1 inch in front of K.

Draw line 14 from J through O, this gives under-

arm seam of back.

.\pi)h- length of coat wanted from waist line

down.Notice.— If coat is wanted to ripple from waist

line down, instead of armhole use line 6 and 16 for

back. S is () inches from K, T is 1''4 inches in front

of S.

To a\'nid tracing the front of coat, nioxe front

forward so the tiack ]iart of front under-arm seam

will not overlap, or if desired draft on a sejiarate

|necc of paper.

Begin front of Box Coat as follows:

]2 is wdiere dot I would ha\e been had we ilrafted

C( at with under-arm lines to o\erlap: begin by

ci'niinuing line ,^ and square down from ]2 the un-

der-arm measure as at K2.

R is 1 inch back of K2.

Draw line l.S from |2 through R; this gives un-

der-arm scam of front.

j2 to I is same distance as C to J.\' is half way between J2 and I.

W is 1 inch in front of V for a'l sizes up to 36

bust. ;'4 i'"-'li "P to 42 bust and 'j inch up to 48

bust. (This rule is for normal figures. See draft

No. 8 for stooping or over-erect forms.)

In nnr next draft we will explain how to changedraft fi)r the stooping or over-erect forms, by the

difTerence between what is called LONG SIDEMEASURE AXD LOXG BACK MEASURE.These two nêasures will locate the front NECKPOINT by actual measure and not by guess, as

many systems do. This neck point is commonlycalled the white elephant of the trade and has

caused many a cutter to lay awake nights trying

to devise some simple way of locating this point

by measure. We believe, after giving this plan a

test, you will sa\' it is the liest ever given by anysystem. Our next draft will ixplrin just how the

measures are taken and applied for the dilTerent

forn''S.

Square down line 17 by lire .t. then continue up

thrfiugh W 12 incites.

W to X is the under-arm measure.


Measure from J! to G (Hi hack, place this aiiKiuiit Square d<nvn fr(_iin L)X. and make ItX tlie umlcr-

at X. foHow alonjr line 17 and mark the long side arm measure,

measure in halves as at Y. KX to FX is difference !)et\vi.en liust and waist^

Place line 2 on scjuarc, on line .^ of draft, so neck (See waist sn|j])rcssi(in liiûres. ) .Mark at 14 in

size touches I ; now make a dut at small hole near this case,

hand. This oives chit Z. Draw line 21 from |).\ ihrMn-li h'X. This gives

Draw line 18 from Z to Y. center front line.

Place neck size at long side measure at dot Y (;x i^ height < f hust nu'asnrc from CX.and line 1 on square on line IS of draft; while in

^^^ j^ ,..,^-^d^ „f ,-,.,,„j ,,, ,va,st-liue fron. CX.this position make a dot at sm-ill hole near hand . -, , ,,- .v-

, V 1 r . 1 .- 'TM • Draw Ime 22 troni LX to (.iX.and at neck size m front neck hgures. 1 his gives

AX and P.X ' -^ '"^ -^ inches lielow CX.

Scptare line I'l by line IS from .\X forward about ''1^""^' left-hand corner of square al IX. .•ind 1'

7 inches. curve touching line 12; whili- in this positii,n clr.iw

P>X to CX is ha!'' inch.

DX is Dt inches from

line 23.

IX to |X is chest measure in li.iKes.

30 W RIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK

Square up line 24 by line 5. so line 24 crosses Draw line 40 from XX to RX, with 13 curve at

IX. or near XX.

Place line 2 on square on line 12 of draft and For pointed shawl collar, use W curve at OX.

line 3 on square on line 24 ni draft; n.iw draw Draw line 41' from Y through VX to line 39,

lower front armhole curve fnnn jX to 14 in front with O curve at \.

neck figures. This is neck line of coat, where the under collar

,, " vi .- r T !/ ;„î, K^ ^1. ,^f is jiiined, the tacni"- covers this seam, as the col-Measure with tape from L up y^ mch back ot i •

.

f-. .

-, , , . ^' r 11 1,. ,-. lar and facnin are all cut m one piece, the seam

AI, place this amount at X. follow alims; Ime 1/, . . r i . . i

'

.' belli"' m center nt back at neck,

andniark at over-shoulder measure m halves asj,;^^^^,^| ,.^^^,^ ^,^^^^^. _._,^^^^^^ ^^^^., ^,^^„^^_. ^^^^.^^^,^, ,^^^,,^.

at KX.^^,,,1 pj-essed on break line, as it will be wlien fin-

Sweep line 25 from KX backward, pivoting ishcd.

at X.

Place half bust measure in 4lhs at V and right- DRAFT NO. 8hand corner of square touching line 2.^. which lo-

cales LX, then draw line 2(> from ^' through LX. mi';asim-ie used for this draft

oie

Measure from C, to X on back and make Y to 13 Neck 14 e Width of Chest

MX the same length. -^6 Rust 8 Length of rnderarm

Draw line 27 from JX to MX. with 14 curve at 2-' ^âist 7 Depth of Armhr,- 40 Hip 15 Length of Back

or near JX. . ,. , , ,,,. , ,

Place 17 curve '4 inch below MX. and \'> curve

touching line 2(k then draw line 2X.

Place 17 curve at V touching liiu- ]'K ihen draw

line 29.

IJraw line 30 from IIX to K. with T curve at

HX.

M Lon.u Side 13 Width of Back

29 Over Right Shoulder 7 'e Length of Shoulder

29 Over Left Shoulder 15 Size of Arniliolc

42 Long Back 11 Elbow

8 Hei.yht of Bust 8 Hand16 Length of I'ront 18 Length of Sleeve in seam

Square line 31 by line 21 forward from IIX. CHANGES FOR STOOPING AND OVER-ERECT FORMS.vS(|uare line M by line 21. forwar<l and back from

GX..\X is 3 inches from II .\ fi>r double-lireasted Draft No 8

''"'^'^-All preceding drafts have lieen drafted to the

(AX is 3 inches from CL\ for double-breasted,^^,^,,,^, j^„.,,,.^.; .^{^^^^ y^^, j^^^.^ learned to ,lraft

a pattern for the normal figure, the student is

Draw line 33 from OX through \X straight.,],.,,^ ,.^..^,,_,^, ^_, ,,^,.^, ^,^.

„,^, ,,^;,^^ advanced studies.

coat.

Continue line 20 one inch in front of Y. This is

width of stand of collar as ;it PX.

Draw break line 34 from ( )X throu-h PX about

of which the following plan for changing neck-

point for stooping or over-erect forms will be found

to be the most jiractical ever given.

3 inches. Heretofore all s\-stenis have onlvP.\ to OX is -'4 inch more than from P, to G

r given a pro-

portionate plan of locating these points (which is

on back. only guess-work). But the following is locatedSquare line 3.^ by line 34.

]^y ^^.^ simple measures called LOXG-STDE andR.X is 2'4 inches or width of collar desired. LOXG-BACK measuresSpring collar '4 inch back of RX. The L(->XG-SIDE measure is taken from waist-

Continue line 3.^ back of liur 34 and make SX line or bottom of strap on left side just in front

1 inch from (JX. i,f armhole, up around the back of neck, downDraw liuf ?i7 from SX to Y straight. front of armhole on right side to bottom of strap

I'.X is 1'4 inches l)elow line ]'/> 011 break line. or waist-line.

\'X is \î inches in front of break line on line 1"^. The LOXG-B.\CK measure is taken from waist-

S(|uare line 38 by line ,i4 from LX forward. line in back on left side straight up along side of

WX is 3 inches or width of collar wanted. neck, aromnl the front of neck, then down to waist-

Draw line 39 from OX to within 1 inch of WX. line in back on right side, straight down 011 a line

wilh Y curve at OX. with side of neck.

.\X is I'S inches below WX. Now on a normal figure the long-back measure



is fnmi 1 to 1 ', j inches mnrc than the LONG- Draw line 9 from G through (J to V on square,

Sini{ measure. For this reason we use the dif- with R curve at G.

ference between these two measures to determine Draw line 10 from B to G, with P curve at B.

hii\v much to mci\e neck-point forward for a stoop- B to P is length of shoulder measure. (See

ing fiirm. or iiciw much to move puint l)ack for dotted line.)

an (iver-erect turni. (J is J's inch from P. to be held in inr round

Notice.—The J/.)\'G-BACK measure is the only slmuldcrs.

measure that is not applied nn the dran. but is j^ j>^ half way lietween 1! and H.

nseil to determine the attitude nf the figure. ^ j^ ],a|f ^ây l^ctween P and I.

The draft as given is fnr a normal figure ex-\^ {,, g j^ width of back measure in halves.

cepiin- the front neck-point has lieen changed to]),..j^^, ,i,^^. jj ,-,.,-,j„ q thr.ûgh S and about one

a sl(uii>iug foriu. Also remember a stooi)ing fnrmj^^^.j^ l)elovv line 3.

wouhl require a deeper . -r longer depth of scye, j^..^^^, ,;|^^. j_, ,^.^,j -^^^^^ |,^,,,,^^, y^^^^ -^ ,.,.,,,^^ j ,-,,j._

measure. ( )ur n.ain object is to .how the changes^^..^^.^^ ^^^^^^^

-j^^^.,^,,

necessary at the Mont neck-poim au,l how the^,^^^^ j.^^^^ ^ ^^^^ ^_^^^^^^.^^_ ^^^^ ,._^^, ^^ ^_^^ ^,^.^j^^ ^^^^

back shoul ler is raised to accoiunio late ihi- extrax. r i i i i ^ i < . i

'•'^'^

the upper part of back armhole touches (J, andlength required for a stooping f,,rm. U.nom of arndiole near 1(. on square touches line

The folloumg <h-aft will >liow plainly just what,_,. ^^^^^^. ^j,..^^^, ,5,^^ j, ^,,. |,^^.,. a,.„^,,p]^ ^^^^^.^

changes are necessary for the different j'orms.j,. ^.^ .p j^ ^^.^^j^^ measure in 4ths for tight-fit-

Dotted lines are for the ON' 1'<R-ERECT form.^j^^^. j^^rment. As this coat is half-fitting, we

Heavy lines are for the stooping round-shoul- ,^..^'1^^-. y j-i^jf ^^y between T and L.

dered form. ^- ^,-, ^ is the amount for darts.

L to \' is one-third distance between U and L.SINGLE-BREASTED PRINCE CHAP COAT.

|,,.._^^. ,.,^^. ^^ j,.,^,,^^ ^ ^,^^ ^^^,.

i,^^,^ ^^^^ ^^ j^

W is half way between E and U. (For this

Draft No. 8.style of coat.)

Make draft same as for a tiglu-fitting coat until \\' to X is same as V to U. or what was left

you come to line 2. D to EX is 14 in waist sup- f,,,- darts.

prc'ssion figures, as the figures are for tight-fitting y is \y, inches abo\-e I on line 8.

garments, and we want this coat half-fitting, we S(|uare short line forward by line 8 until it

make di.it half way lietween. (For three-fourths crosses line 13. This gives dot Z.

fitting make dot half way between E and EX.) Draw line l.S from Z to W, with X curve at Z.

Draw line .i from P. to E. by placing right-hand Draw line Ui from X to I, with .\ curve at X.

corner of sipiare at 1',; while in this ]josition scpiare Now, as we are drafting for a ^too])ing form,

line 4, and mark .at neck size for back and '4 inch we take out -'s inch from Z to AX, slanting short

added; this gives dot F. Hue toward K.

F to G is half inch straigiil uj). |',X is I'j inches below 1 <in line 16.

Square Hue .^ b\- line 1. . Place ^\' curve at BX, and X curve '4 inch iu

II to I is width of bark measure in halves less iVont of I, draw line 17 from BX to AX.1 inch. Draw line 18 from AX to line 12, with BB curve

II toI

is bust measure in halves. at .\X.

K is half wa\- between II and j. t'X is (1 inches tielow D. This is hip line.

Square down line U froui K to L. the under-arm Square line !'• bv line 1.

iieasure. |)X is half inch less than from D to E.

Draw waist-line 7 from E to E. Draw line 20 froiu E to DX straight.

S(|uare iq) and ilown from I, making cross-mark S(|uare down from \V and make cross-mark at

at waist-line. This gives line 8 and dot M. line 19, as at EX.I'lace s(|iiare 1 inch lielow M (with hand u|) I G,X is half inch in front of EX.

I'ollow along line 8 and mark at o\-er-slioulder I'raw line 21 from W to GX straight,

measure in babes as at X. Xow. as we are draft- DX to HX is J'4of full hip measure and 1'4

ing for a stciojiing round-shoulclered form, we raise inches added,

dot X -H inch as at O. IX is '< inch back of line fi, or same as L to V.


jX is lialf way between IX and HX, with 14 The same rule applies to the over-erect forms,

inch added. only we i;n hack of the normal line >s inch for

Draw line 22 from \' to JX. with (i cur\-e at V. each inch ciifYerence.

Measure DX to GX. place this amount at JX. Notice dotte;l lines shown on over-erect form andthen measure back and make KX same as DX to the difference it makes between the stoo])in<r form.

IIX, or '_| full hi]i measure and 1'4 inches adileil. Draw line 2ti from III! t(i EE.Draw line 23 from X to KX. with II curve Place line 2 nn square, on line .S of draft, and

:it X. neck size in front neck ti,s;ures at J; now luake a

I'lace rule '4 inch back of E,, tciuchiuL; DX, con- dot in small hole near hand. This locates dot FE.tinue line 20. Draw line 27 from F"E to EE.

Place rule '4 inch in front of \\ , touching GX, Place neck size at long-side measure dot EE,continue line 21. and line 1 on square on line 27 of draft; while in

Square up from KX, cross-mark at waist-line as this position make a dot at small hole near hand,

at RX, then place rule half way between RX and and at neck size in front neck figures. This L;i\es

X. touching KX, continue line 23. dots CiG and Mil.

S<|uare down 6 inches as at ( )X. then make PX Scpiare line 2S forward by line 27 about 5 inches,

•}-,s inch in front of (JX, continue line 22 by placing II is half inch in front i;if HH.rule on JX and PX. JJ is I's inches in front (if |.

Begin Front as Follows: S<juare down from || ]>\ lim.' 5. and m.ike K KA\ is half way between J and K. the under-arm measure.

rii; is 1 inch in front of AA for all sizes from KK to EE is 14 in waist suiipression figures, as

30 to 3'i bust, -'4 inch up to 42, and _> inch up there w;is 14 inches difference between bust andto 4M bust. .\s you will reailily see. the larger waist.

the bust the farther we mo\e P.l'. back. Kemem- Draw line 3t) from || throui;li EE strai'dTt.

ber this has nothing to do wuh the stooping or MM is height of bust measure from II.

erect form. Draw line 31 from II to .MM.

Square ilown line 25 by line .t, and make CC the X N is 3 inches from II.

under-arm measure, from Ell; now continue line ' '< ' is length of front measure to waist-line

25 up through Bli about 12 inches. from IE

Measure from ?> to G on liack, place this amount PP is one inch from L.

at CC, follow along line 25 and mark at long-side Draw line 32 from PP to K, witli K cur\e at

measure in halves; this gives dot DD. I^P.

Make swee]i forward and back of DD, by pivot- Draw waist line 33 from ( )U to PI', with 1 curve

ing at E on line 6. at ()().

/\s this draft is for a stooping form, we nuist Measure from M to ^1 inch back of (), ]ilaee this

find the difference between E()NG-n.'\CK and amount at CC, follow- along line 25. then al.mg

E(JXG-SII)E measures, which determines how ''n^^' -'' and mark at over-shoulder measure in

much a person stimps or how nuich the\' are over- haE'es (2'' in this case). This .gives (JO.

erect. Sweep line 34 backward from 0(1, pivoting at

Example.— .As the EONG-SIDE lueasure is 37. CC.

an<l the LOXG-P.ACK 42, tlure is .s inches dif- Place half bust measure in 4tlis at Eh',, and right-

ference; but for a normal figure the E( )XG-B.\CK 'land corner of scpiare touching line 34, which lo-

measure should be from 1 to Pi inches more than ^"^t*^^ ^R' '''^'" f''aw line 3.=; from 1<:E through RR;EOXG-SIDE measure. Therefore, we nuist first

^'i^'" "i^^^sure from G to P on back, and make SS,,,,,• I ,,, ,

I,1 the same length from EEadd the 1 mch to the long-side measure, as this ,.,, , . ,

is the amount the normal figure leans forward

;

this makes the EONG-SIDE measure 38 instead

of 37. Now find the difl'erence between 38 and 42,

lace left hanil corner of square at \'X, andP curve on line 5, now draw line 3o and mark at

chest measure in halves as at TT.

,,..,,,, , , ,

Square up line 37 bv line ,=i, so line .^7 crossesand this will tell you how much the iierson stoops 'pn^

(4 inches in this case). Therefore, we move line [Mace line 2 nu srpiare, on line 12 of dn.ft, an.l25 forward y'j inch, or % inch for each inch differ- li„e 3 on scpiare on line 37 of draft, now drawence. This makes EE 'A inch from DD on sweep lower front armhole curve from TT to 14 in front''"f- neck figures.


l)i;i\v liiu' 3.S frnm TT t^ SS, with 14 curve at J is ', inch back of I.

II,. near TT. S(|uare dnwn hue 4 hy line 3.

I Mace 17 curve 'it iuch below v'^S, aud 19 curve| to K is uuder-arm measure,

touching;- line 35, draw line 3''. Draw Hue 3 from D to K.

I Mace 17 curve at EE and 19 curve touchins:;- line Siiiuire up and down from G by line 3 and make

3.^, draw line 40. cross-mark at line ?. Tliis sjives dot L.

Square line 41 forward and back fmm AIM. IMace s(|uare 1 inch l)elow dot L, with hand

S(|uare line frcjui OO forward by line 30. prjiutins;- u\k foUow alonL,^ line 6 and mark at ovcr-

I'L' aud \'\' arc each 1 ' _> inches in front of shoulder measure in halves. This tîves dot M.

Hue 30. Draw Hue 7 from F through M to U on square,

As this is a tly-frout coat, we make a larger lap^^.jj]^ j^ curve at F.

than for a coat that buttons through. l)ra\v line 8 from B to F, with P curve at V,.

Draw Hue 42 from UU through VV straiglit. n to X is shoulder measure.

Draw hue 43 from EE to UU. with O curve o is half way between 11 and C. Make a dot

at EE. liaU' \va\- between N and Hr.c 3.

2X is Ti inches below PP. () to I' is width of liack measure in hah'es. (See

Ajiply length of coat from waist-line down. dotted Hues.)

Curve lower part of front about 1 inch below Draw Hue '' from X through P, about 1 iuch

straight line as sh(.)wn on draft. below Hue 3.

3X is half hip measure in loths back of 2X. Draw Hue 10 from X to J, with 1 curve at P.

Draw line 44 from PP to 3X. with II curve at ( c;ec back arudiole for child on division side of

PI'. square.)

Sqiuire up from 3X aud cross-mark waist-Hue (j j^ half way between 1 aud H.

as at 4X, then |)lace rule half way between 4X \^ j^ i

_, inch in front of O. (For small child.)

and ri'. touching 3X, continue Hue 44. S(|uare down Hue 11. aud make S the under-anu

measure from R, continue line 11 u]) through RDRAFTS NOS 9 AND 10. about s inches.

MEASURE USED FOR THIS DRAFT Measure from P to F on back, place this amount

at S, follow along Hue 11 and mark at long side11 Mi^nt 10 '2 Lcnetli of Front • 1 1 4. 'r11 iNcck ^" ^'- .-. measure m halves, as at 1.

i5 Bust 5'e Underarmpj_,^^,^_, y^^^__ , ^^^ square, on line 3 of draft, so

>j. W'list 5 Uei)th of Armhole, . ^ , ,, , 1 ^ » 1 1-+ vvaisi

1 „,,^.|^ ^^y^. touches II, now make a dot at hole near27 'e Lon.R Side 10 Len.-th of Back

hand ; this gives dot U.20'. OverShoulder S ;. Width of Back

^^^'^^^ Hnv u'from U to T.

27 Long Back 4-, Length ot Shoulder^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^_^^ ^^ ^,_^^ ^^^^^^^^^.^ ,^_ ^^^^^^

5'" Heiuht of Bust 11 Armhole.J - iii-i!-,"!. ^'

],,,p \ i-,„ s(|uare, on line IJ ot dratt ; while in this

WAIST FOR SMALL CHILD. position make a dot at front neck figures as at

dot \' (11 f(ir this draft); now place Bl! curve at

Draft No. 9. I" and draw line 13 from T to \\

\s most svstems do not draft for small children, Draw line 14 from V through II full length of

we nive the following draft ;

square.

Take measures the same, only somewhat loose. \' to W is height of bust measure.

Draw line 1. and make A tn I! .3 inches for V to X is length of front to waist-liue.

V is 4 inches below X.

Z is I'j inches below V.child.

B to C is depth of armlink' measure.

S(|u;ire Ime 2 bv line 1, and mark at neck size. Aleasure with tape from L to M on liack. place

which <'ives dot E ^'"^ amount at S, follow along line 11 and mark

F is'^'s inch straight up from E. =it over-sh.nilder measure, as at AX.

B to D is the length of back to waist line. Tîvot at S and make a sweep backward from

AX.Sf|uare line 3 b>' Hue 1.

C to G is width of back nu

C to IT is bust nieasu

1 is half way between C and 11. Draw liiie P'l from T through BX.

C to G is width of back measure in halves less 'e inch. Place bust in 4ths at T, and right-hand corner

C to IT is bust measure in halves. of square touchiu.y- swceji. This locates HX.


3« WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK

-Measure fr..m F to N. and make T to CX the I is half way between G and H.same len-th. Hraw hne 8 from G through I. with N curve

J Mace left-hand corner of square at Z, and P at G.curve on line 3; now draw line 17 and mark at Square Ime '' fmm H to L by line 7.

chest measure in halves: this locates dot DX. L to M is 1 inch or more.

Sc|uare line 18 by line 3 so it crosses DX. H to J is l-M inches or wi<lth of cuff.

Place A curve at DX and P, curve at or near S<iuarc short line horn J forward ; this locates K.CX

;while in this positinn draw line 19 from CX K is where short line touches line 8.

^" -'• Draw line 10 from A[ to K. with Y curve at M.Place 17 curve '4 inch below CX and 10 curve To cut out the sleeve, hcLfin at A, follow along

touching line 16, now draw line 20. lines 3-4 to G. then down line 8 to K, then along1) to EX is waist measure in halves. (12 inches n,,^ jq ^^ ^î_ ^^-,,^^, ,,|^^,„ ^j^,^.^.^. ^^„,, ^.^,j j,.,,,,^ q

'" this case.),,,^,„„ U,,^. ^, t,_, j^^l,,^

EX to X is what is left for darts. (1'4 inches

in this case.)^ TIGHT-FITTING SLEEVE.

K to FX is y, inch.

K to GX is .;4 inch. Draft No. 11.

Draw line 21 fn.m J to FX. Notice.— .\11 sleeves, such as Tight-Fitting, One-Draw line 22 fr.nu J to GX. Piece Leg o' Mutton, Two-Piece Leg o' Mutton,IIX is 3 inches helcw K. Coat Sleeve, P.ishop Sleeve, Bell or Wing. Puff,

Draw line 2?i fr. im FX tn HX, with h curve at and many nthers, are drafted on fold of paper byF-^- this system, thus saving considerable time in draft-

I )raw line 24 fmm GX t<< HX, with II curve at ing.

^j-^- Take a piece of paper 30 inches I"ng and 24IX is 2' 2 inches below D. inches wide and told lengthwise. In drafting tight-

Draw line 2.T from IX to HX, with I) curve at fitting sleeve, begin at top or right-hand end of

'^- paper.

Draw line 26 from X t.. (^X. with T curve at X. Scpiare line 1 by fold of paper.

Draw line 27 fr.mi V tn MX. with I curve at Y. A to P. is armhole in 3rds. (See arrow or divi-

sion side of square.)CHILD'S SLEEVE. S(|uarc line 2 by fold, using leltdiand short arm

of scpiare.

R to C is armhole in 6ths. or JlA in 3rds. Re-Draft No. 10.

Take a piece of i)ai.)er 24 inches loii"- ami 18 , î 1" • •

1 c.

' ' ''^ member we are using tiie division side 01 square

inches wide and fold Icnu'thwisenow.

llegin at right-hand end and sauare line 1 bv o i- •> 1 i- t v r 1 nM •^ vj i !<. 1 u.> Sciuare line .1 bv line 2 so it crosses line 1. I histnld.

A to P) is armhnle in 3rds.

Si|uare line 2 by fold.

11 t(i C is armhulc in 'iths.

C t" I) is 1 inch.

D to F is armhnle in 3rds.

G is half inch in front of [*.

.Square line 3 by line 2.

Stpiare

locates dot D.

E is half way between C and D.

F is 1 inch back of C.

Place left-hand corner of S(|Hare on line 2 at F;

while in this position mark at armhi")le in 3rds as

at G.

Place l.T cnr\e at D and system touching" a point

'J inch back of G (see dotted line near G). Xow

Draw line 4 frcmi F to within D ; inches of F 1" r 1 c t-, . vi • 1 1 r /^ <-i.

, ,.- ""-'"-^ "1 J^- draw line 4 from D to withm 1 inch of G. then

with 1.1 curve at h (see dotted line), and 10 curvenear dot F.

place 15 curve at G and connect curve with line 4.

Draw line 5 from A to D, with 24 curve at A.

Draw line 6 from G to E, with 15 curve at G.

Draw line 7 from F to .A., witli 16 curve at A.Draw line 5 from A to E with ^4 cur\-p -if A c . „ i- our -1i-^. \\ i\.n _-t Liii\e ar .'\. S(|uare line 8 bv line 2.

Connect line 4 from G upward with li curveat G.

Draw line 6 frnni A to G, with X curve at A. H is the inseam measure from G.Square line 7 from G down.

I i, u,i\i wav between.G to II is mscam measure.

_ Square back from I bv line 8, which locates line



9 and dot J, which is at fold.

ft(.i K is elbow measure in halves.

L is I'j inches from J. Can l:)c more if narrow

undcrslee\e is desired.

M is I'j inches from J, and X is 4 inches from J.

1 )ra\v line 10 fmrn M to K.

vSquare dotted line by lino 10, with left-hand

end of square at K: while in this jiositinn mark at

inseam in halves (18 for this draft), (See that

hand points down,) This locates O.

P is 1 inch from K. (See circled d^t,)

Now lav rightdiand corner nf square at O, and

lonq- arm of square touchiuL;- circled dot P; while

in this positiim draw line 12.

() til (J is half hand measure.

K is -'4 inch from O : S is the same.

Draw line l.i fmm K to C, with K curve at K.

Draw line 14 from L to E. straii;ht.

Draw line 13 frnm K to O. with S curve at K.

Draw line 10 fn.m L to R. with S curve at L.

Draw line 17 from N to S. with 10', curve at N.

Draw line 18, L to N. with K curve at L.

Xciw make notch 2 inches ab-ve L and 2 inches

below L on undersleeve ; the fullness i> hehl in

between these two notches.

In cultino- out this sleeve, be,i.;in at \, fnllow

alouK line 4 to G: then cut on lines 1.^ and ISâiid

across line 12 to S. then alons; line 17 t.. N. This

must be d.me while the paper is still f.'lde.l.

Now open fold and cut alon,u lines 6 and 7, then

dnwn lines 14 and 16. and finish alnn- line 18,

The space b'-tween 16 and 17 is nnt used ..nly on

u]i])er sleeve.

Notice.—For coat sleeve, add ':4 ii"-Ti at hand,

elbow and armhole measures.

BISHOP SLEEVE WITH SMALLTOP.

Draft No. 12.

Square line 1 at rishtdiand vud by f..ld ..f paper.

A til 1! is anuhnle measure in .M'ds. usiui^ arrov\

side I if square.

S(|uare line 2 by fold of paper.

B to C is the armhnlc in oths. (13 in 6ths.)

D is 1 inch back of C.

1) to E is arndiole in 3rds.

E is half inch liack of E.

Square up line 3 b.v line 2.

G is where line 3 crosses line 1.

H is half way between C and G.

Draw line 4 from G to within l', inches of E,

with 13 curve at G.

Connect line 4 by placing- 13 curve at E.

Draw line 3 from A to (i, with 24 curve at A,

Draw line 6 frnm E tn H, with 13 curve at E,

Draw line 7 from A to H. with 16 curve at .'\.

Square down line 8 and make I the inseam meas-

ure frc)m E.

J is li.alf way between E and I.

Square back line 9 by line 8.

K is frild I if ])a])er.

L is 1 ' 2 inches below K.

K to M is elbow measure in hahes.

Draw line 11 from M to E. with L curve at M.

Draw line 10 fn.m L to M.

N is 1 inch fnmi A[.

Square dnwn line 12 by line 10, with hand point-

ing; down: niiw ma)k at inseam measure in halves.

This oi\-cs di it O.

Place ri'_;ht-Iiand cnrner nf scmare at ( ). and Inni:

arm nf sipiare on \: nnw ilraw line l.i frnm () tn

fnld nf paiicr as at P.

Draw line 14 frnni P tn ( ), with W curve at P.

Draw line 13 frnm M to ( ), with 8 curve at M.

< ' tn C) i> 2 inches, or width nf cuff desired,

R is ,1 inches frnm P, nn line 14.

Draw line 16 frnm R to (J. with X curve at R.

To cut <iut the sleeve l)ei:;in at A, fnllnw lines 3

.•md 4 tn l'*,, then dnw ii lines 11 and 13 tn ( ), then

acri iss hue Id tn P.

.\nw s|)read npen sK'cve and cut alonij lines l> and

7 to fnld.

BELL OR WING SLEEVE WITH SMALL TOP

Draft No. 13.

Draw line 1 b\ fnld nf ]ia])cr.

A to P. i-- armlinle in ords.

C is half wav between A and P.

C to D is two-thirds armlinle, or twice as far from

A to P.

Sr|uare line 2 li\- fnld.

D to E is armlinle in 6tlis.

Draw line ^ frnm P. tn E.

Square line 4 b\- line 3.

Pi to F is armlinle measure in halves.

G is -i^ inch fmm 1'. H is half inch below G.

T is .'s inch abi ive A.

Draw line 3 from H tn I, with Z curve at H.

Draw line h fmm E to I, with Z curve at E.

Square dmvn line 7 b\ line 4.

I is inseam measure fmm E.

K is half way between.

Sipiare back line 8 by line 7.

ICoiUinued on Page 4u.]

WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK 31)

— 3


L i^ 1 iiicli fmni K.

Draw line ') fnnii 1, In I'', with L curve at L.

Draw line 10 from 1. ti I, with '' curve at 1..

Sweep line 11 backward li\ jiivotinL; at A.

Iti.> Al is hand nieaMire in lialve-^ and 1 inch addei)

for a coat sleeve.

X is half way between D and E.

Draw hnc 12 fi'oni M toward X (see di>tted line)

M to (.) is 5 inches more or less.

P is 1 incli above line 11 at fold.

Draw line 13 from P tci ( ), with O curve at P.

Dotted lines >how the wini^- sleeve enlarged at el-

bow. Swec]) bottom of wing or elbow length l>\ ])iv-

otinu- at A (see dotted lines).

'I"he lower ]>art of full length slce\-e is plain at hand,

but gathered or plaited from P to (_).

To cut out full length sleex'e begin at I : follow

ahing line 3 to b", dowu lines '), 10. 11, 12 and l.v'

now spread sleeve open and cut aloui: line (\ u\> to fold.

Line 'i is back of sleexe.

Cut on dotted lilies for elbow length; also ou lines

5 and f).

SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE.

Draft No. 14.

In drafting' this sleeve lie-iu at bottom on k'ft-han<l

end of square.

Take a piece of paper M) inches loni^ and -"4 uiclies

wide ani] fold lengthwise.

I )raw hue 1 b\ fi ild i if papt-r.

A to 1! is hand measure in halves.

II to C is I'j inch for fullness. This eau be maiU^

width desired.

1! to 1) is 1 , inch allowed for lap of cuti'.

.\ to E is 3 inches, or width of eutT desired.

vSqnarc line 2 l)v fold of pa|)er, usmg left hand

short arm of stpiare.

Square hue 3 li\ line 1; this complett's cufl.

.\ to ]•' is uiseam length and oni- inch added.

Square line 4 b\- fold of paper.

1" to (i is armhole in halves.

(". to H is I'j inches for small shirt waist sleeve

(If a wider sleeve is (U'sired add 2 inches or more

outside of (i, thus changing as the style demands.)

Square <lown line ,s 1)\ line 4 (see direction of

hand )

.

Place right-hand corner of s(piare at C, then move

system until inseam measure with 'j inch added

touches line .^. This gives dot I.

-Xow draw line fi from C to I.

Iis half wa\ between C and I.

S(|uare line 7 b\ line ().

J to K is -'4 inch for shirt waist sleeve onlv.

Draw line 8 from K to 1. with K curve at f\..

Draw strai'jht line ^> froui K to C.

L is 'j inch above Ime 2: this is the jj inch we

added tcj inseam.

M is half waA- between E and I^.

Draw line 10 from W to E, with S curve at M.

N is ly^ inches from fold of jiaper.

Square line 11 b\ line 2 about 5 inches (this is open-

ing of sleeve ).

Xow measure froui E to II and make (.) half of this

amount.

Draw line 12 from I to ( ). with Z ctirve at I.

P is f^ inch from I on line 12.

Place .\A curve at P, and ilraw line 13 from Z

curve on square to O on draft ( see cross mark at

'.J '

Draw line 14 from I to {}. with O curve at O.

This completes Shirt Waist sleeve.

To cut out pattern, begin at ( ), folkjw along line

12 to I. d<iwn lines 8 and 9 to L, then cut across line

It) to E (this is sleeve ])ortion), then open fold anil

cut from I along lines 14 and 13 to ( ).

Eor cnIT cut from .\ to 1), up line 3 to line 2, then

across to E.

SMALL ONE-PIECE LEG O' MUTTONSLEEVE FOR WAISTS.

Draft No. 15.

Draw line 1 by fold of paper.

.\. to 11 is baud measure in halves.

.\ to C is inseam measure and 1 inch added.

Stpiare line 2 bv fold of jjaper.

C to 1) is armhole measure in hah'es.

D to I'", is 1 inch for small Ee,g-o'-.\futton sleeves

Square down line 3 by line 2 about 4 inches.

Place rightdiand corner of square at P and makeE the inseam measure from 11.

Draw line 4 from P to E.

G is half way between P and E.

Square liack line 3 bv line 4.

H is where line 5 touches fold.

H to I is elbow measure in halves.

Draw line (> from I to F, with L curve at I.

Draw line 7 from I to P. with '> curve at I.

C to J is half as far as C to E.

Draw line 8 froui E to J, with Z curve at E.

Place AA curve at K and upjier sleeve curve near

W on S(]uare, touching J. AMiile in this position

draw line 9 from line 2 up to J.

L is where line 9 touches line 2.

WEIDRL'S INSTRUCTION I'.ooK 41

Draw line 10 from L to F. with O curve Pit 1,.

As the top iif -leeve at Jwuiilil have a sHuht p'l'iit.

we liiwer J 's meh and top of sleeve as per dotle:!

lines.

If a point is wanted at han<l, find center between

A and r. and i^n down 1 inch and shape as per dntted

lines.

To cut out sleeve bei;"in -'.s inch below j, follow

along line cS to b", then ilown lines (i and 7; now across

dotted lines if point is wanted. Now spread sleeve

out and cut on hues lU and [> up to fuld nf pajier;

then cut ol'f line 1 from A to 1!. as this i- the back or

under part of sleeve.

TWO-PIECE LEG O' MUTTON SLEEVEFOR COATS.

O is half wav between M and s\vee|i line.

Draw line 11 fmin 11 tn(J. with A A curve at II.

Sipiare lini- 12 b\ line S.

.Measure from () in 1'. and u-ake () to R niK-tlnrd

il'stance.

Draw liin' 1.^ froiu 1, t^' K -tr.ait^bt.

r)raw line 14 from I' t<i R. with I'. cnr\e at I',

Draw line 1 .^ from II to S, with /. cur\ e .it II.

To cut this sleeve mit beL;iu at I', fnllow sweep line

to S. then alou;; lines \?. 7. '' ami acruss liue 1. This

miist be done while the paiier is still fulded. \nw

s])read the s]ee\-e npen .-nid cm akiUi; Ime 11 dnwn

hues S .and 10 to D. then ctU alon- hue l.i In R.

and .-douL; line 14 to P.

Draft No. 16.

r>en;in at Imttum or left-hand end and sipiare line

1 \>\ fold of paper.

A to R i^ hand measure in halves.

C to C IS 1 inch for coat sleeve (fur waists do unt

a<ld the inch ).

D is 1 inch froiu .\ ; can be made more if narrow

uuder-sleeve is wanted.

A to E is inseam length and 1 inch added.

Square line 2 \)\ fold of paper.

F to F is armhiile in halves.

b" to (i is I'j inches. For wider sleeve adil 2 or

n'.<ire inches.

Square down liue .i bv line 2.

Place right-hand corner of stpiare at C. and make

H, the inseam, measure from C1 is half wa\ between C and II.

Square liack hue .^ 1)\ hue 4.

1 is where this line ti inches fnld.

Ito K is the elbow measure in halve- and '4 inch

added.

I. is 1 ' J inches from j ; make more if desired.

Square line d b\ liue 4.

II to Al is the ariuhole measure in .^rds.

Draw liue 7 from K to II, with K curve at 1\.

Draw line 8 from R thrnuiib .M about O inches

above.

Draw line 9 froui K to C, with 9 curve at K.

Draw liue 10 from R to 1), with 8 curve at R.

N is half wav between E and line 8.

S(|uare dnwn froiu N abcnit 1 inch .and mark dot (1

(this i^ pivotiug point for sweep). The lower this

dot is placed the smaller tn]) it will malce, and the

nearer von place pivot to line 2 the larger the tup.

Piv'it at () and make a sweep line fmni 11 to fuld

of jiajier.

Everyone who uses WEIDEL'S SOUARKWill sixmer or later have their share.

And after >-<iu R-nrn to draw the lines

You are sure to see better times.

It wont be lon,y before you know the curves

And then you sa\' I've yot better nerves.

Now and then yon seem to mutter

Some day I'll be a wonderful cutter.

Then >-ou will see lue on easy street

Because 1 kimw how to make a draft so neat.

When vou learn the square and curve combine

Then yon will soou learn how to <lesi'.4n.

Good desi,'.^ners are always in demand

If vou can ]>rove your work will stand.

But if \<iu think \ou are in dcuibt

Go to Weidel and he will help vou out.

We Have Used Rice Silk lor 7 Years

Ami can i-hc'crfiilly recoimneiul il. It lias

proved satisfactory at all times.

WRIDEL Sz WKBSTKR.Ladios Tailoring- CoUeg'e.

For Ladies^ Tailor Cloths

writr: to

CUNNINGHAM WOOLEN CO.SEE AD

For Tailors' TrimmingsREAD

SHAPIRO'S c^D


HALF-CIRCULAR CAPE WITHON SHOULDER.

DART

Draft No. 17.

Draw line 1 and square line 2 b_v line 1, about 3

inches from edge of paper.

A to B is half of neck measure.

C is half way between A and B.

B to D is depth of armhol.c

P> to E is length of back to waist-line.

K to F is y^ inch or more.

I'lacc right-hand corner of square at B and long

arm touching F ; while in this position draw lines 3

an<l 4.

J', to C is neck size for back.

O is y2 inch straight up from G.

Square line 5 by line 1.

H to I is width of back in halves, less 1 inch.

H to I is bust measure in halves.

K is half way between H and J.

Square lino ^ bv line .'^.

L is under-arm length from K.

Draw line 7 from b to L.

Square line 8 up and down from I: this Icjcatcs M.M to N is over-shoulder measure in halves.

Draw line 9 from B through O, with P curve at B.

P is 44 inch from O.With R curve at I^, draw line 10 from P through

X to \' on square.

Q is lengtli of shoulder from B (see dotted line).

Square line 1 1 1)\- line 1.

Pivot at O and cast a sweep from P through line

11, which locates R.

S is JX inch from R on line 11.

'Place line 1 on square on line 11 of draft anil neck

size touching S: wdiile in this positii.in draw line 13

from R to line 2.

Place 17 curve at R and draw line 14 to O.B to U is length of cape wanted in back.

Pivot half wav between P and R and cast sweepline 15 from I' to \' at center front. W i^ 1 inch

below \'. .Add for lap outside center front.

Wb^DKL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK 43

A Word About Our CollegePupils de.-.iriii<r to do their own sc'\vin<^- or make jji'arnients for others can do so

at the following rates. We teach every l)ranch of Dressmakin<j; and Ladies' Tail-

orin>^^ Each pupil receives individual instructions, no classes formed.

You can beoin at an V time. CoUej^c open the entire vear. Instructions dailv

trom ') to 5 p. m.. e.xcept Saturday 9 to 4.

OUR TERMSTUITION FEE ALWAYS PAYABLE IN ADVANCE.

FULL COURSE, either system and 45 days les-

sons, consists of instructions in Cnttins', Fittint^",

Basting, Stitchin.t;', Pressing, Boning, Draping

and Finishing; with system for drafting all

kinds of la<lies' and children's garments, $25.00

DRESS MAKERS'S COURSE, 12 days, Draft-

ing lessons and system for ladies' andchildren's garments, - - - 515, on

40 .Sewing Lessons, without system, - 15.00

10 .Sewing Lessons, without system, - - 5.oo

6 .Sewing Lessons, without system, - .S 5o

Xo e.xtra charge for patterns if work is finished in sehooL

NIGHT SCHOOLEvery Tuesday and Friday evening from 7;5o to 10 p. ni.

Rates, 24 evenings for $15. no including system.

A\ÊIDEL & WEBSTER^^P*- ^ Ladies^ Tailoring College,

3838-3840 Olive St. ST. LOUIS, MO.


FITTED CAPE WITH SEAM OVER SquarL- line 18 from Z upward, and make AX the

THE SHOULDER. undcr-arm lent;th.

Square line 1') by line 18.

.\X to ll.X is '4 of full bust measure (9 inches

Draft No. 18. in this case).

.p, .- ,1 1 r^ 11 It .,,tt;„,,- i''X to CX is 1''. inches (same as for semi-fittingThe tiillowHiii' draft can also be uêd tor cuttnig >-• v

,_ v

Kimonas, or an\- .garments that rei|uire the shoulder coat).

,1,

', ... „.i, ,.,.,. ,,i.,ii , ,„- ^H--ii,s nrr 1 'lacc ueck size at P.X and line 2 on square on Ime

seam exacth on td]); also wlieie pl.uts m sti.ips art '

, ^ / , I ,11,- 1'' of draft; then make a dot at small hole near handto meet at tcq) ot shciuldei.

Draw line 1 and make dot A at ri.;htdian.l end. ^'^ •'' '^-'^

. r) 1 ,1 r 11 Ilraw line JO from DX to f.A to B IS depth "t armhole. ,._,,., ,.

,, ., ^, ., , , . r. Place neck size at F and hue 1 on s.,u:ire on hne

A to I 1- len-th ot back U> waist-hne. ,„ . , . ,.,.,. . . , ,. ,, .,.,,,., J.0 ot dratt : while m this liositmn d aw line _'l tromSquare hue _' i)v hue 1.

, • ., ,- > , .

,-, ,^ . , ., r 1

• 1 F to neck mzc in center fmnl neck huiires; tnis locatesC to I) IS .'4 inch nr nmre it desired.

Place left-haiiil curner of square at A, and Ituii; -•; . . .

,. ,, ,.,.,. . .

II'X IS hall inch m trout i>t hX.

arm (it Miu.-ire tiiuchm<^ 1); while III this pi'sition diaw,>x-,i ,' Square hue -- h\ line \'> .-lud make (.A the under-

lines ,^ and 4.,.,,,.. , ,

• , arm leiiL;th trnm e \.h to b IS hall inch straight iqi.

, ,,- • ,-,v i . i . i

.

. . (,X to 11\ Is dittereiice between bu-t and waist ui

Square hue .> b\ hue 1. . . ,i i

•,i i^' ,, . ., , .

, ,• 1 , 1 1-1 waist siiiiiiressiou hgures 14 in tins case).

G to H is width nl back lu halves less 1 inch.. ,,..,., c i . .i i r 7i

, ,b-\ til |\ Is height 'it bu-f. then draw line 24.

I is bust measure m halves.. 'rx- i ., : : , , » r

, ,I'X t(i IX is length ut trniit to waist hue.

T is half wa\ between <. ami 1.i,- . . ,^ i' i .- \

i . ,- i v ti,;,-' Pivot at () and make sweep Irdin .\1 toward Z: this

K is lialf wav between iand 1.

i . i x-,

,

.

kcates P.X.L is halt wa\ between and K. d- . ^ , , i i ,- r ^ i r iq

. ." I ivot at ( ) and make sweej) trom P toward line 18;Square line f) b\- line .s.

,i i . t-\-'

, , rt'l'^ locates KX.

j\I is undcr-arm length trniii 1., x^ „ r ^, , , i f v

, ,. ,, , \i LX IS three fourth inch back ot z.Continue line 1 Imm I) ti> .\l.

. ^ r ^' -..i t ^ tx-,, , , , t X- ,1 Draw line 25 to LX, with 1 curve at IX.

Square up and dnwii tn.m 11. wliu-h loc-tes X and, ,. , ,

.'_ ' I)raw line 2f) from O to AX, wilb ^ curve at (J.

''"'' ^-, ,, . ,

,Place rule on AX and PX and draw line 27.

X to () IS nver-shoub'er 111 halves.a i

\- .i r^ s w ; t f r>, ,. , ,, , \ -M .X IS the saiT.e distance frtjui .\.\ as tnnn L to K

Draw line 'I from A thmugh !.with P curve at A.

"11 line 12.

P is vi inch Irnin I'. x i\- . \-x- • ,, r . ri » t'

^. . -^1 .\1.\ ti) .\X Is the same distance as R to \.

Draw line 8 Irnm P tbrnu-b ( ) t(. \ nil sqnare, witb ,,•,,,, , ,•,0.- vv f nv

I ivcit at ( ) and sweeji line 28 trom .\ X to < )X.R curve at P.

, ,, , y ,Place 17 curve at 'P and hnllnw fnait shnulder to O.

S is length of sh„ulder trnm .\ .see dntted ine ,

.

^

. ^^^^ ^ ^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^ _^_ ^ .^^^_^^^_^ ^^^^^^.^^^

Draw line 10 fmm < • to 1., with 24 curve at ( >.

_^^. ^.^^^^ ,_,^^^^ ^ _,^

Line 20 nr hill hue is (. mche. belnw C . and s,|uare. .

". ' 1 be npenmg at side seam is trnm 1\.\ to AIX.

out frnin hue 1.In cutting nut cape begin ;it A. fnll. .w line 3 to U,

Square line 11 fmm I dnwii tn line 20; this l.icates1 1

., t .1 r 1^ in i q f'I then nver line Pi to I, then u|i lines 12, 10 and 8 for

R is 1 inch back ot (.) (tor fuller cajie .at bnttnni.. ^ „ ,- ,, ,. ,, -,- , -,q .-~ pnr tnnit be -in at I , fnllnw hues 20, 2/ and 28 to

draw line 12 thrnugh O).()X, then up center front lines 23. 24 and 21.

Place rule on P. touching R. and draw line 1-. \-, erwr 'pi r r -m 1 i 1• ^ .\( ) 1 K L.— J he sweep lines trom Al and L a'C onlv

\ to V is len<;'th of cape wante<l., 1 ^ • ^ r ^ 1 ^ r^ ' ^ '^ ' . used tn Incate ]ioints on front and are no [lart ot cai)e.

I'ivot at < I and sweep line Pi trnm I acrnss to line ,,.,,, ,- ,, 111 1 r^ <-

'' '_ ^

' 1 )ntted lines nt armhnle are onlv placed on draft to

l_, as .It 1

.

sjicw linw this draft can be used for garments that( ) tn \- is over-shnnl.ler in halves tnuclnng hue P

^.^.^^^^__.^, ,^^^ armhole to sew sleeve to.

Pivnt ,-,t C and sweep line l.s trnm \ Inrward. XnTICF.-In uîng this plan fnr Shirt Waists or

\ 1,,\\ IS nver-sbnulder m halves.q^^^j^ ^^.jj,, shoulder seams ingethcr. i.ixot at N in-

1 )ra\\ line Ih frnin F through Wr. in\(

stead nf C. and sweep line 13 from \' forward. By.\ to X is Iniig-side measure in halves. ,1,;^ luetlmd ynu can make plaits or tucks match; also

Square hue 17 by line Ui. add the sleeve as for a Kimono or anv garment that

X to V is half bust measure in 4ths. re(|uires sleeve cut on to the .garment. This plan is

^' to Z is 1 inch. also used for drafting a Ra.glan.


'<<^

<>\^^

%

5 \

Mi \

29

3Nn xsh/mT^ ^°'^'''

DRAFT 1

8

J33wn

''^SaisI 3

46 WBIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK

FULL CIRCULAR SKIRT. Sciuare up ' j inch half way hetween K and Z. and

(!ra\v hne to star.

Draft No 19 Draw hne 10 from O to T. hne 20 from T to P,

Hue 21 from P to W, and line 22 from W to L.

Then sijuaro down half way on each line as fol-

low --: ' _> inch on lines 19 and 20, and 1 inch on lines

21 and 22. then draw curved line 25. from O to DX.

throui;"h T, P, W. and L, and touching,'- short lines

sriuared down.

X( iTlCK.—Do not cut on lines 11, '), and 13, as

the-e are drafliu"- lines.

For Buttons and Pleating

Write to

O, Aberer Mfg. Co.SEE AD

This is the simplest and (|uickest plan for draft-

in^;' circular skirts.

.\s it is the difference hetween waist and hip that

iôverns the width of all circular skirts.

Draw line for ceiiter frcnn A down.

Square line 2 b\ line 1.

A to P. is waist measure in halves.

Place left-hand corner of square at 11 ;move square

so lii|) measure in h;dves touches line 1 ; this locates

C.

Draw line ,i from P to C.

D is half wav lietween I', and C.

1{ is 2 inches below D. l*'or more fullness move E

farther from D.

Square line 4 In line .^ until it touches line 1, as at

F; this loeates pivotini.; point for swx'ep.

Swx-ep line -^ from C torwar<l. jji voting' at F.

r to (". is 5 inches alwa\s.

Swee]) line ii from C,, pivotiuL; at F.

(;, to Jis half of full hip measuie.

C to H is half of full waist measm-e.

H to 1 is \'2 inch fullness to he held in. IF IN NEED OFK is ' S inch above I.

•->>. r • r~»

Draw line 7 from K throu.t^h J. the K'n_-,lh of back. Drafting PapCrDr.-iw line 8 from K to C".

.M is half way lietween K and C. READ ADSquare down line 9 by line 8.

( ) to I' is si<le length.

\ is :, inch below C. or ' < inch for ea. h inch the

side is lon.êr than front.

X to ( ) is front length.

Draw line 10 from O to P.

R is half wav between O an.l P. PattcmS of all kindsS is half wav lietween (." and ( ).

Draw line 11 from S through K to T.

Pine 11 is length of fiout plus half extra length of

side.

Draw line 12 from 'P to P. P is half wav between.

\' is half way between < ' and I.

Draw line 1,^ from \' to W.

Pine 1.1 is length of line 7. plus half extra length

of side.

K to X is 6 inches always.

Square back line 14 b\ line 7.

X to Y is 5 inches or less for fidlness.^

a„j Needles and other supplies see

Place 3' J on right-hand end of s(|uare at K, with

long arm of sipiare touching ^'; w hdi' in this position 'N'E'V^ HOIVIE l^di

draw lines 15 and lo.

h'rom K to PX is '4 inch more than from K to L(see dotted line).

Chapman Paper Co.

Cut to Order

Special Discount to Dressmakers

Weidel & Webster Tailoring College

For Sewing Machines

WKIDKL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK

Measures for Draft No. 19

47

11 Waist 3.S Hip 40 FmiU 41 'j Sid' 41 Had.


NEAR-CIRCULAR SKIRT. Draw line 13 fn.m X to (); make a ,lot half wav

between and square ddwn - ineh.

Draft No. 20.^' to Y is 6 inches.

The t<.lUnving plan is use.l f..r ,^ an.l 4 piece skirts Square line 16 by line 7.

with seam (iver hip nr down front. Y to Z is 5 inches, more or less.

Draw line 1 from .\ <!cnvn. or use edge of paper as T'lace 3'.. inches on rightdiand sbort arm of square

center front of skirt. at .\, and long arm touching Z, then draw lines 17 and

18.Scjuare line 2 b\ line 1.

A to B is waist measure in halves. Half way on line 17 square up '. mch and draw

.\ to C is bill measure in halve lines to Star.

( see di itted hues ).

Draw cur\ed line 21 from [ to HX. through U, R,

\ to D is one-third distance n{ V, to C. Friim X to IIX is '4 inch more than from N to O

n to E is hip measure in halves.

1 )raw line 3 fri.im 1 ) to K.

I.- ,s half wav between D and F.. >^' -tt' " ='"'• touching short lines squared down.

X()T[Clv—Do not cut on lines 12 and 13, as these

ire draftinij- lines.

Scpiare line 4 liv line 3 mitil it touches line 1.

S(|uare >liort line froiu ('. to 11, Dj inches back

front line 1.

This locates pivoting point for sweeps.

E to Iis .T inches always.

E to J>s front length ,,f skirt. IP yOU ARE IN NEED OF

Make swee]) lines .S and (>. pivoiinu at II.

I to K is half of full lup measure, following sweep T^TTT?^, hue <">•

E. to I, is half of full waist measure.

1. to .M is 1 4 (if 1; to C: this amount is taken out

in dart at hip at O.

.X is ' S inch above M.

Draw line 7 from X through K ;make O the back

length from X.

Draw litie 8 from X to E.

r is half way between X ami E.

S(|uare line '' liy line 8. The advertisers in this book are all reliable

O to R is side length. concerns. We cheerfully recommend

See ROOS FUR CO, AdLargest Furriers west of New York

As the auioiuit tor darts is _' uiclies 11

take out 1 inch each side ot (J.

them to all who are interested.

WEIDEL & WEBSTER.Make a dot half wav between E. and [}. :ind X and

(J ; this locates S and \ .

^Lower waist line '4 undi below l'., -r 's mch for

Ladics' Tailoring College

everv inch the side is longer than the trout.

Draw curved line from E to X. with I'.P. curve at

Dr.-iw line 10 from Jto R, and make a dot half way

Isetween, as at T.

Draw line 11 from R to ( ), and make a dot half way

between, as at W.

Draw line 12 from S throu-h T, as long as E to J

iilus half extra length of side. t- 11 1 1 J i MI

"" To all dressmakers and tailors

Draw line 13 from \" through W to X, as long 'as

back i)lus half extra length of side.

Draw line 14 from R to .X, and make dot half way

between and scpiare down Vj inch.

Patterns of all kinds cut to order

Special measure cards Free

who order patterns



22 Waist ,iS Hiii 4<i Front 41 '-• Sick- 41 Hack

50 WEIDKL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK

SEVEN-GORE DIVIDED SKIRT WITH (J to P. ib the aniuunt fur darti (3'j inches m thi>

APRON FRONT. case), to be divided as follows: Ij inch in first dart.

1'4 inches in third, and 1 :)4 inches in second; always

Draft No. 21. take cmt half of each dart on each side of lines 3, 5.

r>ei;in 2 inches trum right-ham I end of ])aiier and -ind /.

draw line 1With J curve at front line of each piece draw waist-

Draw line at top of draft half hij) ( I'l m this case) Hue from sweeji to sweep,

and make divisions as follows: front .yore one-sixth With ( ) curve at waist line draw line 10 into line ^

hip and '.. inch added, hack piece ' j inch more than With 12 curve at waist-line draw line 11 into line 3

front; divide the remainder in hall or ,^ > , inches each. With M curve at waist-line draw line 12 into line 5.

\ to 1! is len"1h of fnmt. With 10' j curve at waist-line <lraw line 13 into

i; to C is 5 inches when side is more than front. line ."'

Siiuarc line 2 1>\ line 1.With X curve at waist-line draw line 14 into line 7

(.• to 1) is width of front gore as per hip divisions With 11 curve at waist-line draw line l.s into line 7

It ton of draft This completes 7 gore to center back.

\ lo V is twice C to 1) I'*"!' a divided skirt we take one extra measure,

Place rule on D aiul I", aiul draw line 3. the rise. It is taken as follows: have the person sit

1) to !•' is same as C to .\. "" ediair. then measure from lioltom of belt at side tn

Place left-hand corner of square at D and ri.-lit- scat ..f chair; this gives the depth of crotch,

liand corner ,".- inch in front of line 3: while in thi^ We apjily this measure on <lraft as follows:

position square line 4. This is to be repealed on P. to R is rise( 12 inches in tliis case),

each of the following gores. Square line U> by line 1.

I) to V IS width of second .gore (see hip division). R to S is half liip in sixths.

'Place left-hand corner of s(|uare at E and P curve Sweep line 17. pivoting at C.

on line 3: then make H to (i t a ice I) to F, plus 1'- A to T is 1,', inches more than R to S

jjj^.l,^...^Draw line 18 from S to T.

I'lace rule on [• and P. and 'haw line 5. <' to l' is (> inches always.

I' to 11 i- same length as D 1.. 1'.. Scpia.re line V> by line '>.

Place square same as we diil on line 3. ami draw [' to \" is h inches or more.

Ij,,!^. (iS(piare line 20 1)\ line '>.

V to I is wi.llb of third gore. ' ' to W is 4 inches.

Place left-hand corner of s(|nare at 11 and P curve Draw line 21 with rule on W and \

on line 3; then make 11 toJ

P.. inches more than T • ) to X is 1 inch more than () to N

to G .\ to "\'is same as ( ) to X.

With rule on 1 and | ('raw line 7. Draw line from ( ) to V and sipiare up half way be-

I to K is same as V to II. tween. as at Star.

I'lace scpiarc same as we did on line 3 an<l sipiare Draw line from X to X; then at center drop line yi

line S. inch.

1 to P is wiiltb of last gore (4'., inches in this case).j.,^j^ completes the inverted plait.

Place left-hand corner of square at K and P curve ^.^^_^

^ .^ ^^^^. ^^.^^ .^^ ^.^^,^^

on line 7; then make K to M twice 1 to P. plus 1 ' j. ,,-,-, ,^ x/ to .\X IS R1SP-, (12 inches m this case).

inches.

W iih rule on P and .\l. draw line 9. Scpiare hue 22 hv line 21.

1. to X is .same as 1 to K. AX to BX is half hip in 4ths.

X to () is length of l)ack. Square line 2^ by line 21

1 1 to I' is side length.

Place 1 curve at P and 'lart curve touching O; then

cross-mark line /

.

With line 1 half wa\- between 1 and I on scpnre

X to CX is I'j inches more than AX to IPX.

Draw line 24 from PX ihrougb CX.

I'.X to DX is half inch less than S to T on front.

ami dart curve touching P. cross-mark line 3. Make a dot half wav between .\X and IIX and

Make short sweeps acniss lines 3. 3 ;md 7. ])iv(]tin,t.' sfpiare up 1 inch as at EX.

at hip line for each. Draw line 25 from EX to \', with Y curve at EX.AU'asure with tape along waist-liue from ( ) towards Continue line 25 from EX to IPX. with \(> curve at

front and make (J one-half waist measure. EX.



22 Waist 3.S Hip An iM'diit -H'u' Sid 41 Hack

Line 24 sews to line 18. Draw curved line 3i thmuoh |)i)ini- A. H. H, K,

Frir apron use lines 1, Jd ancl 3; then across waist- N'. X to DX.line at lop: (bis iimst be cut so tbe center front is on 1'"m1(1 in\erteil line 9 to line 21.

fold of material. This completes draft.

52 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTI()N BOOK

GORED SKIRTS ARE DRAFTED The first flare heoi„s ]4 inches, more or less, be-

AS FOLLOWS: low F. as at K.

Draw hue 8 from K to I.

XdTlCM.În -hafthi- sore.l skirts, hcom inI'lace s,|uare on line 7, as we ,li,l on line 4; tlien

(Irawini;- a line at top of skirt (see line 2). the length,],-;, \v line ''

of hip measnre in halves. This line is use.l t,, divi.k-j ,,, [^ j^ 4,_^ inches, or width of 3r(l gore,

the skirt into the numlier of gores desired. "1.1.,^,^. i,.ft_hand corner of square at 1, with P curve.\s the mne-t;dre is the foundation for all gored on line 7, then make I to Al 1 inch more than E to

NINE-GORE FLARE SKIRT.

skirts, we begin as follows: C ,^(>^., ,.„|^> \-<i. 4 for increasing width of skirt at bot-

First. determine the width of front gore desired at^^^^^

hip line, which will depen.l upon the prevailing style.^y-^^^ ^.^^^. j,,^,^,,„,^„ j^ ,,„,, ^[^ ,1,..,^^. n,,^. i„

,n this case 2' 4 inehes is used, or use division that is ^ ^.^ ^. j^ ^^^^^^^,.^;-

j ^^^ j

one less than number of gores wanted; if you are ^.^^^ ^^ .^ -,,^ j^^^.j"^^ ^-^^^ ^.^^.^_ (increase flare anv

drafting a nine-gore use division in ei.ghths tor front„.j,i,|, ,iesired).

gore; then make hack gore one inch more than front,.,,^^,^, _.^^,^, .^,^_^^^j ^-^ .^^^.,^^.^ ^^,_^^^.^, 1^ ^^^^ ,.^^. ^^ ^^^^^

(3' 4 i'K-hes ,n this easel ; divide the remainder mto„,^,^.,,i,^^. , , f,^^.,^ ,,,..^^^. j;,,^^ ^^

.^ e,|ual parts. This is not a hxe.l rule, as some cut-|. t,, () is same as L to X

ters prefer to divide as follows : after marking ott the|_ ^^^ ,-, .^ ^ .^^^,|^^ ^^^^_^^ ^__. ^^^^^^ ^^^_^^^ ^,

^^^ j^._

f,,-,n, width as above, divide the remainder mto 4,,^^^;-,;„^. j_, ^.,.,,,^^

,_^ ^^^,-,

e(|ual piarts for a mne-gore..j,,.^^,^. .,,|„.„.^. ,„, n^^. jj^ ^.^^ ^,,,j, ,ij,| ,,,^ ,j,^^, ^^ j|^^,,^

.XOTICIV—This plan of adding flare d.R- awav^^^^^^^ ^.^^^^ ^^^

with the usual methud of tracing wut patterns, thus^^

^^^^^ ^^ '^.^^^^^ ^^. ^^^^ ^_^^^^ ^^ ^ ,^^^^^^^ .^^ ^^^.^ ^_^^^^^

saving much valual>le time to the bnsv cutter.j ,j,^^^^, leftdiand corner of s.piare at ( ). with I' curve

on line 11. and make ( ) to S 1 inch more than I to

M.

I'lace rule on l\ anil S and draw line 14.

Draft No. 22. ,, ^^, y -^ ^^^^^^ ^^ ,,, ^^^ ,

,

Draw line 1 :md make .\ 2 inches from bottom ot,|,

^^^ ^. .^ ,,^ .^^^,|^^, ^^_^^ ^^^^_^

pa]ier. I'lace rule (1 inches above R and touching I', ilraw

\ to r. is front length of skirt. lii^. ]5^

11 to C is -^ inches whenever the side is longer th:m^ j_, ^. j^ ^.^^^^^, .^^ ^ ^^_^ y

1, int. 1\ •" W i^ 1 inch le^s than L to O.

S<|uare line o l)v line 1.1 )raw line I'l from W ti> V.

C to n is width of front i:ore. or fir-t division (-'4pi.^^^. ^cpiare on line l.s, as von did on line 4, then

inches in this ease). draw line 17.

.\ to l". is twice as wide as C t" 1'. \' to X is 3'4 inches, or amount left for last gore

I'lace long rule on D and K and draw line 4. I'lace left-hand corner of sipiare at L", with V

F) to E is same as C t" A. curve on line 15, and make U to Y, 2 times V to X,

Tlace left-hand cnrner of square at D. and nghl-p]j,., 1 1 _, i„(-hes always,

hand corner (.ue-half inch in front of line 4 (see d'lace rule on X aiK' V and ilraw line IS.

lotted hue); while in this position sipiare line ,s. X to Z is same as \' to l'.

I \\e miive square one-half inch forward on each gore y t„ .\x is lenuth of back.

I,, Inwer skirt at top of liack to prevent swinging to jv; ^^^ p,x is side len.gth. XC^TICE.—.Always drop

the fnint. I X l^ inch for each inch the side is Icimger than the

I) til I'* is 4' J inches, or width of second gore. front to keep side fn m running up to a point.

I'lace left-hand corner of square at \'.. and P curve Place I curve at liX, with dart curve touching .\X.

on line 4. Then make E to C, two times to F, and mark where square touches line 14, which lo

phis 1 inch. cated top of dart.

Place rule on ("> and F. and draw line 6. With top line nf center front between T and J on

1' to n is same as 1) to E. sipiare. and dart cur\'e touching TS.X on line 1(J, markH to I is 2'4 inches, or the amount of flare wanted. top of darts on lines 4 and (>.

Place rule aliout 6 inches above F, on line (> and Pivoting at hip line, make short sweeji across lines

(oucliing 1 ; now draw line 7. 4, (>, 10 and 14.

J to O is same as F tn H. Measure with tape line from .AX through sweep



n Wrist ,vS Hi|i 4(i Front 41 '-• Si(k 4 1 Hack

CENTER OF FRONT

lines ti) I'., mark CX at one-half waist measure (11 dart '4 mcli. and iliviile the remannler e(|nally be-

inches in this case). tween the other twn, which !:;ives 1 inch foi- each.

From 1; to CX is an-onnt for darts, 4 darts in tin- Take onl an ei|nal amount on each side of line, or.

case. if |)i-eferred, more can he taken out m front of lines

Wdiere the form is lariêst (as at hi|is), take out the 4 ;,,i,i i,

largest amount. With ( • curve at waist-line <h-aw line 1'' into line 4.

It is hest to make a separate line to illustrate llu With .\' curve at waist-line draw line Jl nuo line fi.

distrihntion of amoiuit for darts, in this case there are With X curve at waist hue draw hue _M nUo line 10

3'4 inches fcjr darts, -d make front dait ' j inch, hack With 1 1 curve at waistdine .h.iw lini' It- into line 14,

U WEIDKL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK

With 12 ciirvf al waist-line draw line 26 into line 13 F tn H and F to G are same as C to A.

With 11 cnr\e at waist-line draw line 24 into line 1

1

I'lacc left-hand corner of s(|nare at F, and right-

W'itli 11 cnrve al uaist-line draw line 22 into line 7. hand corner t)f s(|itare ' .. inch in front of line 4; while

With 12 cnrve al waist line ilraw line 2(1 into line 4. in this position square line 5. N( iTICE.— \\'e moveDraw waisl-linc from sweep to sweep with J

curve -xpiarc ' .. inch forward on each gore to lower skirt at

at front of each piece. top of hAck to prevent swinging to the front.

AX to l).\ IS (< inches always. p_ ,,, \ 1^41^ inches or width of second piece.

Square line 27 In line IS. I'lace left-hand corner of square at G. with P curve

DX to I'.X is 5 inches more or less. ,„, i,,if 4, and make (', to J twice as far as from F to 1.

I'lace .V_. inches on right-hand short arm of squarepi,,^.^. ,.„i^. „,, j .,,,,1 [ .,„,, .p.,,^^. ]i„^^. ,,_ .^p,,^,j (,

at AX. and long arm touchiui;- EX; now diaw lines relies aho\e I.

2,S ami 2'J. ^ j to K is same as I', to G.

Make a di^ half way hetween AX and I'"X. au(,'|^ ,^^ p j^ 2'_^ inches for Mare,

square up ' _• inch, then draw lines to star.P].,^.^. |.|,|^. .ip,,nt (> inches ahove 1, touching 1, and

AX to GX is '4 inch more than .\X to /, (see dotted

,i|;i\v |jne 7.

line). M is 14 inches more (jr less from I.

Draw curved line 32 from .\ through I-'.. II. 1..\'.

])v:i\v line 8 from .\l to F.

( ). T, L , / and GX. Sipiare line '', nsinii' square in same ]iosiiiou as weThe -pace hetween lines (,, 7. 10. 11. 14, I.s, is

,|j,] f,,,-ii,,e5.

thrown awav and is not used in the skn't. \-^, , ( ) i^ 41

j inches, or width of third piece.

In cutting material all seams nntst he allowed as ilu- p,,,^,^, ]^,fi.i,;n„l corner of scpiare at F, and 1' curve

patterns are drafted lo the exact measurements.^^^^ j.^^^.

-.^^.pj]^, j,, ,pj^ position make dot P, ;'4 inch

more th.ni from G to | (see rule \'o. 4 for additions

ELEVEN—GORE FLARE FOR CORPULENTf,,,. p,„i,,m ,,f skirts).

"

FORM. j'l.ace ruk' on ( ) and P. then draw line 10 through

( ).

Draft No. 23.j.-,.,,n, ( ) t,-, g is sa.me as N to F.

This plan for ilrafting a skirt for corpulent forms (j j,, K is2'_. inclu's f,,r Hare,

we have found to he the mosi practical ever given., I'lace rule O inches ahox'e ( ). and touching P. draw

;is all cutlers ha\e experienced more or less ditticultN hue 11.

in drafting skirts for this kind id' form, so as to pre ( ) to S is 1 inch less than I to .\|.

vent sa)ue from swinu'ing out in front. .Make clivi Draw line 12 from S to R.

sions for hi]) as ;it lop of skirt. S(|uari' line l,i s.anie as line ?.

Draw line 1 or use edge of paper as center front T t,, R is same as () to O.

Ill skirt. I' to [' is 4' 4 inches, or width of 4th piece.

A is 2 incfies froui luatoni of pa]ier. PLice left-hand corner of sipiare at R, and P curve

A to I'l is front length of skirt. on line 11, then nKd<e R to \' '4 inch more th.ui I.

1', to r is (> inches, the front in this case heing 1 t,, \\

inch longer than si('e. Place rule on I' and \' and <lra\\ line 14.

Square line 2 hv line 1. {' lo W is same as T to R.

C to D is width of lirst division. 2yj inches in this ^y ,,, \- j^- 7.14 inches for flare,

case (see divisions of hip at to]) of draft). (' t,, \' is 1 inch less than (1 to S.

D to F is '_. inch for corpulent forms only. I'lace rule '> inches al)o\'e l'. aiwl touching X. draw

I* is half w.a\' hetween D and li. line l.s.

As this form i-e(|uires more goods in front, we ,add / 1,, X is same as I' to W.'4 inch to hack part of front gore, and '4 inch to the Draw line lo from Y to X.

front part of hrst side piece; this half inch must he Square line 17 same as line .^.

taken ovu at two back seams. '4 inch at each seam. Z to .W is 4'4 inches, \\idth of .sth jjiece.

A to G is twice the <listance froni C to 1''. Place left-hand corner of scpiare at X. ami P cur\e

G to 1 1 is 1 inch for corpulent forms onl\-; this on line 15. making X to liX J^ inch more than R to \'.

s|i:ice is taken out hetween front and first side pieces. 'Place rule on -AX and PX and draw line 18 throu.gTi

Draw line ,i from F to 11. AX.Draw line 4 from F to G. .\X to CX is same as Z to X.

WKIDKL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK r>D


.Si Waist 43 Hi]) 41 Fnuit 4l) Side An'-s Hark

L'X to 1)X is 3'Iinches ior llare. mi line 1'', making; IIX twice as far as F.X to ('.X ami

Place rule (< inches above AX. :ini] loncliini;- DX. 1 ' _ inches aihled.

haw line \'K l'l;ice riiK' on <".X .iinl IIX; draw line 22.

F.X to DX is same as AX to CX. ' CX 1o IX i> same as F.X to \)X,

A.X to h'X is 1 inch less than L' to Y. IX to |X is lenulh of h.'ick.

|)r;iw line 20 from l'"X to DX. Dr.iw cnrved line J.^ fhroii;jh dots IF. (1. K. 1.. <}.

S<|n;ire line 21 same as line .r K. W . X. CX, IX, which i^ center of h.ack or in\-erled

EX to ('..X is ,i',4 inches, width of hack pfcce. pl.ail line.

Place left-hand corner of s(|uare at DX and P cnrve <J to KX i- side length.


I'lace I curve at KX ami dart curve touching JX ; at JX and lonu' arm touching XX; now draw Imes

wliilc in tiiis position cross-mark lines 14 and 18. .î an<l ,ifi.

Snnare waist-line of front fn.ni 1'. forward. -^l^ke a .lot half wav between jXând PX and

square up '._. inch; then draw hnes to btar.Make a d"t 'j inch lielow wai^t hue ot tront piece

then make a sjinrt swee]> forward and hack i.if line 3JX to OX is '4 inch more than JX to IX.

C<intimic line 23 from IX to OX.

his Completes draft.

piNotint" at I''. ^ , , ,. ,, ,. ,, 1

,'"r ,.i' ^ Fold Ime 22 to hue M> which tornis an inveiteil

l.X is 10 inches from this sweep (this ' , inch is^^,.^.^ .^^ ^|^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^^

held in hetwcen LX and top of sweep, then ])ressed

toi'ward to give extra room o\er the alidonien for

Corpulent tignres). This can he dmu' mih in wool

materials.

I'lace sijuare (jii 1\.\. with 1 ctir\e where sweep line

crosses line 3; while ni this imsition cross-mark line '>. ,,..,. , , .

In draltmg skirts with tucks running to nothing,.\ow make sweep at lines o. 1(1. 14. and IS. iiivot-

, 1 o i ^f r 1 ^ ; 11 10 1' ' we must make the bottom of skirt the tuU widlh de-mg at Ini) line of each piece. • , ,, 1 1 w , ^. • ^,- ,1' ired. as ncilhiiiL; is ai'ded to bottom m cuttm • the ma-

.\leasure with tape line fmm J .\ alouii waist-linej^.^j-,]

SKIRT WITH TUCKS RUNNING TO NOTH-ING.

1 he hip divisions must be divided into at least l.i

i;dres ; each .gore is dixided into ecpial parts, the tucks

being 'ii this case 1 inch apart. .\s half of the hi])

is I'l inches, we make the front gore 1 inch leaving

1^ inches f(]r the other ') pieces, or 3 inches each (see

hi]) di\isi(iiis at top nf draft).

THIRTEN—GORE SKIRT, TUCKS RUNNINGTO NOTHING.

and make ( )X. half the w.aisi measure ( lo inches in

this case ).

< ).\ t.i I', is the aniMiint Kfl for d.irts, 1,, he taken

oul in .^ darts.

As the form is lar'.êst near the front, we use half

ihe auKiniit in the _' front darts [2 inches in this case),

and the remaining 2 inches to be divided into the 3

hack darts, the 3rd anil 4tli d.arls being 'j inch each,

and the last one ' _> inch. Kememiier to lake out half

of whatever the amount is for each dart on each siile

of center line.

I)raw waist-line from sweep to sweep with | curve Draft No. 24.

at fnint line of each gore, except the front gore. Draw line 1 about 2 inches from elge of paper, or

With .\ curve at waist-line draw line 24 into line 3. use dlje of pa]ier as center front of skirt.

With .\ cnr\e at waist-line ilraw line 25 into line (>. 1! to C is .s inches, when side length is more than

With .\ ciir\e at waist-line draw line 2(i into line front.

I'l. \ to I) is difference between half waist and half

With I) curve at waist-line draw line 27'inti] line hi]) (S iiu'hes in tins case). This is done to widen

14. the bottom of skirt.

.\"< iTICb..— .\s we have added ' _. inch between S(]uare line 2 b\ line 1.

fri>ut ]iiece and first side ])iece we must reduce the (." to H is wii'lh of front gore (see hi]) division al

hi]) measure ])\ taking out ',s inch at L". Z, .\X and to]) of draft).

KX. I) to 1'* is twice as far as C to E.

W ilh <) curve at waist-line draw line 2S into line T'lace rule on 1-' and K and draw line 3 through

15. K about (1 inches.

Willi 12 curve at waist line ilraw line .\^ into line b*. |ip (i is same as C Ui A.

\'>. Sc]iiaie line 4 1)\ line 3.

With 12 curve at waist-line draw line .^2 into line F. to II is 3 inches or width of second iiiece.

l.s. Place left-hand corner of s(]uare at F. and F curve

With 11 curve at waistdnie draw Hue 31 into line on line 3; while in this jMisitioii make F to 1 twice

11. F to II, i)liisI

, inch.

With 11 curve at waist-line ('raw line .^0 into line 7. I'lace rule on 1 and 11, ami draw line .^ aliniit '1

With 11 curve at waisl-lme draw line 2'' into line 3. inches above II.

JX to MX is h inches always. H toI

is s:;nie as F to G.

Square line 34 liy line 22. J to K is same as C, to F.

.MX to XX is 3 inches, more or less. Scuiare Ine (> b\ line .=;.

Place 3' J inches on riîht han<l sb, ,rt arm of square 11 to 1. is width of 3r(I ]iiece.

WKIDIOL'S INSTKL'CTION BOOK r>/


>> Waist

38 Hip

4n iMont

41 'j vSide

41 Hack

NOTICESmall draft shows pattern slashed and sjjrcad

on goods.

CtMER OF FKOST"


I 'lace left-hand curner of ^c|uare at K. and 1' cnrve Place (J curve at waist-line and draw line 17 into

nn line 5. then make K to M '4 inch more than F to 1. line 5.

I'laee rule on .M and L and <Iraw line 7. I'lace 12 cur\e at waist-line and draw line IS into

L to X is same as 11 to J.line 3.

N to O is same as f to K. I'lace (J curve at waist-line and draw line 10 into

Sc|uare line 8 hy line 7. line 7.

L to 1' is width of 4th piece. I'lace 11 curve at waist-line and draw line 20 into

I'lace left-hand cnrner of square at O. with I' curve line 7.

(in line 7; then make () to O '4 inch more than K to I'lace X cnrve at waist-line and draw line 21 into

M. line ''.

I'lace rule on (J and P and draw line 9. Place 11 curve at waist-linu and ilraw line 22 into

1\ to S is ânie as X tn ( ). line ''.

Square line 10 1)\ line ''. I'lace X curve at waist-line and draw line 2,i mto

P til T is width I if 5th piece. line 11.

I'lace left-hand cnmer nf 'iiuare at S, with P curve I'lace 11 curve at waist-line and draw line 24 into

on hue '': then make S tn l" '4 inch m<ire than from line 11.

( ) tn 0. Place O curve at waist-line and draw line 2? into

Place rule on P and T and ilraw line II. line 13.

T t" \' is saiue as P to R. Place 12 cnr\-e at waist-line and draw line 26 intri

W 111 \ is same as R to S. line 13.

Sipiare line 12 by line 11. h'inish bottnm of skirt, drawing line 27 yhmw^hT tn X is width of (ith piece. points A, G, J, X, R, \'. Z, and OX.Place left-liand cnrner nf s(|uare at W. with P curve X,nv divide each s^nre intn 3 equal parts at hip Ime

nn line 1 1 ; niakini.;W tn \' '1 inch nmre than S In U. and hnttnni. the front gore heing one inch at hip

I'lace rule on V and X and draw hue 13. ijn^ and the other gores 3 inches each, making them

.X to Z is same as T to \'.1 inch each; in cutting this iiattern begin at top and

Z to .\X is same as \' to W. eut nn all the lines exce|)t the center back, but do

Square line 14 by line 13. nnt cut through tn bnttom, as the pieces are only

X to P)X is width of last piece. spread apart at tnp and not at bottom.

['lace left-hand corner nf sipiaiY at AX and P curve The amount tn spread pattern at tnp depends on

nn line 13; then make .\X tn (."X '4 inch nmri' tli:ni ihe weight of material to be cut; on light-weight ma-

W 1,1 ^^ terial it is best not to spread pattern more than one

Place rule nn C'X and P>X and draw line 1.5. inch, but on heavy materials it is best to spread pat-

I'.X to DX is same as X to Z. t"-'''" until the front edji'e of each jiiecc is on the

1)X to KX is length of back. straight of material.

.\dd inverted plait same as per draft Xo. >>, or •

nine-gore skirt. NINE-GORE PRINCESS SKIRT.R to FX is length of side.

Place T cnrve at 1<'X. with dart curve tnncliing FX

;

while in this pnsition cross-mark lines 11 and 13. Draft No. 25.

Place sipiare so line 1 is half way between 1 and I This plan of drafting a Princess Skirt, we believe,

nn sipiare with dart curve tnuching FX. will meet with the approval of every cutter whn de-

W bile in this position cross-mark lines 3, 5 and 7. sires tn save time, as no tracing of pattern is rei|nired.

.Make slmrt sweeps, pivoting at hip line and cmss- Draw line 1 and square out hip line at tnp nr left-

w"j: lines 3. .^, 7, '', H and 13. baud end nf i)aper.

Measure alnng waist-line from EX to (".X. half X'OTICE.—For all gored skirts use division that

waist measure. is one less than the number of gores you want to

CX tn P, is the amnunt fnr darts. 2'/ inches in this draft. As this is a nine-gore we u.se hip measure in

ease, to be divided into 5 darts, as follows: '4 inch for Xlhs fnr the frnul gore or first piece. This is not a

the 2nd and last dart, ^'2 inch each for third and fixed rule, but c;in he made width desired according

fnnrth dart, the remaining 1 inch fnr 5th dart. tn style. Now mark on bin line as follows:

Draw waist-line b\ iilacing j curve at front edge Front g'ore ],i hip and back gore 1 inch more, then

of each gore. divide remainder into 3 equal parts.



:i8 Hi] 36 Bust 22 Waist 40 Front 41 'c Side 41 Hack

A to B is front len^'th to waist-line.

B to C is 5 inches when the side i> nmre than fnmt.

Square line 2 li\ line 1.

C to D is wiillh 111 fmnt Ljnre (2' 4 inches in this

case). See division nn tii]i line.

A to E is twice as far as C' t( 1 D.

D to E is same as C l" .\.

Draw line 3 bv jilacing rule on 1', and 1>.

Draw line 4 parallel with line 1.

E to F is same as F, to 1).

S(-|uare line .^ hv line 4.

F to G is width iif 2nd >i;ore (4i'> melies in this

case )

.

Flace leftdiand corner of sc|uare at I",, with F curve

on line 4 and make I*", to 11 twice as far as F to Ci.

|>his 1 inch.

(i to 1 is same as h' to I-'.

1 )raw line 7 jiarallcl wilh line 4.

1 loJ

is same as 1 to (r.

S<|nari' line S I)\ line 7.

[ to l\ is width of ord ,L,'ore as per clivision on hi|)

line.

60 WKiUKL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK

riacc k'ft-lian<l cnrner of s(|uarc at 1, with 1' curve Draw line 17 with 12 curve at star.

<n\ line 7 anil make 1 to L 1 incli more than E ot H. Draw waist line on each piece with Jcurve at

Draw line 9 bv placing- rule on L and K. Iro.il line (if each .iôre.

K to M- is san'ie as J to I. I" extend lines aliove waist, we dixide the Imst

Draw line 10 parallel with line 7. measure intu tiie sanu- number of jiieces as we di-

M to X is same as AI to K. \'iiled hip ireasure. except we make second and third

Square line 11 bv line 10. pieces 'j inch wider and back pieces narrower; this

X to (J is width of fourth .yure (4"j inches in this is done to oive more goods over the bust an.l less

i^^^Q\ t<.iwards liack. After you have ma le your divisions

Place left-hand corner <>t square at .M. with P as |)er bust line above ( see divisions for bust ). con-

curve on bne 10 and make M t^ I' 1 inch ni. .re than tinue as fullows:

I I,,1 I; t(j .\ .\ is under-arm length. S inches in this

IMace rule on P and () and draw line 12. case.

Draw line 13 parallel with line 10. Scpiare line 24 by line 1.

() to R is same as () to ( ).Place rule half way between C and D, tnuchin;;

Sipiare line 1-1 b\ bile lo.

'^t'^'"' t'^^'" draw line 2.^ fnmi star u]i to line 24,

i\ t(} S is width <'f fifth yure or last piece. this locates OX.Placf left-hand corner '..1 scpiare on (.). with P I'l^^'*-' rale on (', touching star, and draw line 2(i.8

curve on line 13 and make (j to T twice a's far as R inches aliove star. This plan holds good w]ieiie\er the

to "^ dIus 1 '. inches ~ '"!' ''^ -' inches or more than the bust; shouhl the

Draw line" 15 bv placing rule on S ami T. 'I'l' measure be the same or less than the bust, place

•^ to I' is same'as R to ( ).'"'^'le ' j inch back of G; also nioxe lines back '_ inch

I•

to \' is 'back length.'" on_ third and fourth pieces.

.M to W is side lem'tli'^'^^^ second di\isii n on linst line lieing 4' _. inches,

Pl.-ice rule on P. and W, and cro^s mark line-^ 3 I'l' ee half,,f tjiis airounl on each side of line 2(., 8

and o; this locates X and /..inches above.

1" to ^' is same as D to X. 1 -raw Hue 27 with L curve at star.

.Make a dot y. inch below /. on line (\. as at .\X. I'i''-i\v line 28 with <» curve at star.

I to I'.X is same as G to AX. I'l''iee rule ', inch back of K. touching star and"\ to GX is same as K to W .

dr.-iw hue 29. 8 inches above waist line.

Place rule touchin" GX and W and cross-mark 'I'l'e 'liird piece on bust division being 4'S inches,

Ime ]^'

pkict' liaP' of this airount on each side of line 29.

( ) to EX is same as R to DX. )raw line 30 witli K curve at star.

Make short sweep lines at X. ^•, .\X. P,X, GX. "'"'^v line 31 with 8 curve at star.

I'.X and DX, pivoting at hip line for each sweei>. f'^^'e '""le 1 nicli back of ( ). touching star, and

.Measure from y 'to DX ; i)lace this amount at ''^'^v line ,\2. 8 inches above waist line.

I'.X. and continue to GX : place this amount at W, ''''i'-' '""''t'l piece on Inist division being 3.':i inches,

and continue to P,X ; place this amount at AX and P'^^^c half on each side of line 32.

measure to V; place this amount at X and measure l^''^'^ '"'e ^^2 with K curve at star,

to !! this amount in thi- case is 14') inches ; as the l^''^'^^' ''"t' -^"^ ^^''tl' '"^ curve at star,

waist measure in h.alvev i> 11 inches, we have 3'4 Square line 3.-i through \ by line 14.

inches for darts; this amount i^ to l,e divi.ied into >^ mclies ;J:)ove \ ,meaMire forward 3 inclies. the

4 ,i.,,.ts.wi.lih ot last piece.

it is best to make these divisions on a sej.arate "'''^^ '"'e •^'> with L cuM-e at star.

Hue (see dart divisions). •^'"'^ princess any height above waist hue de-siredDraw a line 3'4 inches long in this case, and di- „

vide into 4 parts as follows : Eir-t .lart ' , inch, fourth K^"^bottom of skirt draw line ,^7 thniUgh points

dart ^

I

inch ; the remainder divided eipially. 1 inci

each. .\s the first dart is ' .. inch, take out '4 iiic

\. E, 1, .M, (J, U an.l OX.If Hare is w.inte<l add according to draft No. 22

from X to star, and '4 inch from \' to star.for nine-L>ore skirt.

The second dart is 1 inch; t,-d<c out '. inch fnun .P"'" '"verted plait make same as draft Xo, 22 for

.\X to Star, and ' ', inch from PX to >tar.nine-gore skirt

The third dart is 1 inch; take out ' _. incli troni'1 r liabit !)ack as follows:

W to Mar, and ': inch fn -m GX t.. Mar.

'•"'''^! mark off inverted plait then make V to OXThe fourth <lart i> m inch; take out - inch from '^^^"-^J^!''^?

^'.'^ width of inverted plait.

I'.X to star, and 's inch from I )X to star.PX is '^4 inch back of S.

I iraw line P. with ( ) curve at' star. 'Draw straiLdit line from OX to PX ; then continue

Dr.uv line 18 with X curve at star.'7'''"^'' .'"^ '''"'" '''^ t" ^'^ ^^'th A curve at N". (See

Draw line 20 with X curve at star.dotted line.)

Dr,.w line 22 with X curve at star. ,

X(nRP..-ln cuttmo- material for plain goods

Draw line 23 with 12 curve at starlay the front edge of each piece on the straight oi

Draw line 21 with 11 curve at star-""'^^"-

^r"" "^'"'Pf,'^-""''"^ ''-^' ^^'^ ""f'^'' "^ ^''^'^'^ ^""'e

Draw line 19 with 11 curve at star' ']" ^ "^''"'.', ^" ^^'''"^^^ "1"^^ ''^ allowed in cuttingthe material.

wp:idp:l's instruction book (ii

Parisian Skirt GaugePATENTED JULY 17, 1906

Thousands of Wômen are using this Gauge; and anyone of them will tell you she ^vould not be

without it for ten times its cost

This device shonl'l bo in ovfry wnm.-m's lnni

minut'-s to haiiff your skiit p'-rf'-'Lly so that its !Slime disliiiice fimi tho ki""""'' '^t all points. Th-romilking of a skirt so inipoitaut as sf-eini; that th«^ blower in one place tlian in anotlicr, aii'l at tho siinie

liisronra 'iTig than tlie number of fittings so ofteisecure siili^factiiry i-'-'-uIts.

Thf' iminenso p<'piitarity this Oaugc enjoys is «

ri'j;ht-iiuh arm. curved in confnrmity with tho natu-^kiit, ovir wliich the Iicm is easily turniMl and pinisi>n turns armind. Tliis arm is raised or lowered oriijtriglit rod to any heijzht di-sirt^d.

Wh'-n ono hip is larger tlian tlie other, as is

of mf)st W'imcn, the use of tho (ism^'o is hire kci-uas no error can possibly result in as much as yuifrom tlin H"<>r up and thi' skirt must be of equal di;

i-arpet at alt points; front, siih-s and bat-k.

There is no Chalk or Crayon us<d with the F

tlif-rrbv eliminating all the bad features of both Cli

on marks on goods.The Parisian Gange is just as indispensihlo fo

makiiii; as t!i« s'win:^ mai-hiu''. i'hildri'u's garmt-nfully huuir wifh tlj-- <iaut,'e as llie cu^^'ed arm may hheight fmni tlm Hmmf.

Where garments are purchased ready madetimes save its cost in the alteration of a single s

Thr C.aui'O is hati'ôinely liieklo phitnl and en:in "rnam-Mit to tho sewiu;^ roLini. It is h> inches tal

auted in H; and 1 inch si-ules; weighs about 3 pountwill not tip over while in use.fully prot-'ctcd by patents ai

iufring 'luent will be vijôrousl

ecutcd to the full extentof the law. It is manufac-tured only bv T<)R(^HONLACK AXr> MERCANTILECOMPANY. Jit. Louis.

WILLLASTA

LIFE

TIME

CONVINCINGEVIDENCE

1 thocrfullv iii.i-i^t' tlio Par-

isian Skirt li.iu-e as b.iiig theheat skirt gunt-e tint I Inve everseL'n used a lid Would advice anyalteration or dressniaknig depart*liietit to iiie tlio same. I. HAR-BISON, Mau.ii,'or Di-essiii.-ikiti? &.-

lit. S<T<ici:s. VandervcM.rt& Bui uey D. «. Co-. St. L-.ims. M"

I liavo tesled the O.iuge andliko it niioh b' tter thm others

MISS LOU V BOYER.11)16 Madis-.H Avo.. Ciiliutd.us, 0.

Am very imnb pl.Tiscd withthe ganê HIRS. El.I.A BENJA-MIN. Mars Hill. Môie.

Plca-ê semi nu' yiir terms as agent for skirt

gaiif;!'; we iiso it ill tmr diessiiiaklng department.

id" I li.)i.-vB 1 can P.-ll several eauges lu.-re. aa

they pive such g.x.d FttH^facti-.n MISS LOU COOK.73J North Odlege St.. Pecatur. lU

I 11

Have used your ga'i^'

perfect gauge; wi.nild lit:e to take n::

are Batisfact.Ty. MISS K. MKlAHER.Ave.. Norfolk. >'clj,

I r-illv coiiicl not R*>t aliinj witln

ALKEJ liAIiLE. N^scopeck. I'a.

sp riiv p-JUfo nil tin) tniK', and aui wellliave solil ri'iiio a nni..iiiT of thnii. dTailor, 20S-1J Putuani Bmldiug. Davenpoi

d it tha nnlv:,.,i, v if l.'uii'^

. 4(17 Pliill.i'y

pli-nsfd witli

II (;kabbk.t. lowa

PRICE, $2.00

Send $2.00 toiLiy for one of tli>'S<- Ciumt-^;. yii

nt'hte<l. Rem.iuiifr— Your Money Back if Not

SOLD BYWeidel & Webster Ladies' Tailoring CollegeDept T 3838 OLIVE ST

, ST LOUIS, MO

AGENTS AND DEALERS WANTED EVERYWHEREId Kill til,, riirisian Skirt Ciiut-f. Cc.ii.r,l...l th.. fHst.«l.

v..!l.-T- oil til-- inark-'t. Wiit" t--1ay f--r t-Tni^ aii-1 lutrti-'Ulaiv

f,2 WKIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK

e.

line.

NINETEEN-GORE KILT SKIRT.'

X to Y is '4 inch more than S to X.

Draw line 12 from Y through point at hip lin

Draft No. 26. Y to Z is same as X to Y.

For all 'i?ored skirts and KILT skirts divide half Sqtiare line 19 by line 12.

hip measure into number of pieces wanted. (See Draw line 13 from Z through point at hip

hi]) divisions at top of draft.) .Ks half hip is 19 Square line 20 by line 13.

inches, make front 1 inch, thus leaving 18 inches to j (q ^x is '4 inch more than Y to Z.

be divided into 9 parts of 2 inches each. Draw line 14 from AX through point at hip line.

We herewith give 2 plans fur drafting KILT Square line 21 l)y line 14.

skut>. the first 3 gores show how to draft on the .\x to 1!X is same as Z to AX.

<r(Mids (while we do not advise this plan). The last Draw line 15 from BX through point al hip line.

7 oiires are drafted in the usual way and cut apart Square line 11 by line 15.

to'si)read on the goods and allow for plaits. p,x to CX is '4 inch more than AX to BX.

Draw line 1 or use edge of paper as center front \)x:\\m line 16 from CX through "DX.

of skirt. CX t(i EX is length of back.

A to B is length of front. Add in\erted ])lait according to previous instruc-

15 to C is 5 inches when side is longer than fnnit.^j^j^^^

Scpiare lines 2 and 3 by Ime 1. X to FX is side length.

C to D is width of front, a-i per hip divisions. (-^^^^ ^ swee]) forward from FX to line 0, pivoting

\ to E is twice C to 1). at X. This locates LX. Pivot half way between

Place rule on D and E and draw line 4. ;\| ,.^,-,,1 [,; ;,n;i c^^t sweep forward from LX to line

p^ t^,, F is 4 inches, amount for plait, S. This locates GX.

F to G is twice the width of second ])iece at hip Cast a sweep forward from GX to line 7. pivoting

line less ' j inch. at M. This locates HX.

II is half wav between F and (>. Pivot half way between G and L: cast a svv.ep

C to 1 is same as A to 11. forward from HX to line 6; this locates IX.

I to J and I to K are eacli one inch. Cast a sweep forward from IX to line 5, ])ivotiug

Place rule on F ami Jand draw line 5. at G; this locates JX.

Place rule on G and K and draw line (). Pivot half way between F and E and make a

G to L is 4 inches or same as E ti) F. sw-eep forward from JX to line 4; this locates KX.

I to M is same as F to G. Place 1 curve at FX with dart curve touching EX

X 1- half wav between L and M. and cross-mark lines 12, 13, 14 and 15.

1 to t) is same as H to M. Cast a short sweep acn.ss lines 9. 10. 11. 12, 13.

to P and t) to O are each 1 inch. 14 and 15. pivoting at hip line for each.

I'hice rule on P and L and draw line 7. Measure fn mi EX to LX ;place this amount at

Phice rule on M and O and draw line X. GX and measure to HX ; place this amount at IX

Mto R i> 4 inches for plait. and measure to JX ;place this amount at KX an.!

K I,, S is '4 inch more than E to M (3m inches in measure to B. This amount being 15'i inches and

. the waist measure in halves 11 inches, we lia\'e 4j/

'

"t i^'half wav between R and S. in^'i^'^ f'-r ''arts to be divided into 9 darts.

( ) to U is same as N to T. ^f''l<e first, second, eighth and ninth darts each Va

L- to V and U to W are each 1 inch. inch

Make \K ami S an<l each following piece same as

to

.Make third and seventh darts each '2 inch.

.Make fourth, fifth and sixth darts each 3/, inch.

IM-ice rule on R and X" and draw Ime >i. Use one-half the amount for darts on each si.le

Place rule on S and W and draw Ime lU. of lines 4, 5. r,, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13. 14 and 15.

Complete draft bv squaring line 17 by line 10. Place J curve at front line of each piece and draw

niakin.. this and each following piece 2 inches at waist line fnnu sweep to sweep,

hip li.K^ as per divisions at hip. NN'itfi O curve at waist-line <lraw line 2i uito

From S to X is same as R to S. l'"*^" ^

Draw line 11 from X through point at hip line. With 12 curve at waist-line <lraw line 24 mto

Square line 18 by line 11. l'"'-' ?



03

21 Waist 3S Hi]) 40 Fn>nt 41 '-• Sii 41 Hack

HIP LINE

DRAFT 2 6

With (1 curve

line ').

Willi 12 curve

line 7.

With ( ) cur\e

line S.

W ith 12 curve

line '*.

\\ ith X curve

line 1(1.

With 11 cur\e

line 10.

W ith \ cur\-e

line 11.

\\ ith 12 cur\e

line 11.

W ith X curve

line 12.

With 11 curve

line 12.

at waisl-l

at waist-l

at wai^t-l

at waist-

at waist-l

at \vai>t-

at waist-

at waist-

at waist-

at waist-

uie

me

line

ilraw

draw

draw

di'aw

draw

draw'

draw

draw

draw

draw

h 1

U'

line

line

line

line

line

line

1 i n e

line-

line

2X

2<'

ol

.i2

,U

nitii

into

inli I

intn

intd

into

inld

inti I

intn

inti)

With X curve at waist-line draw line .^.^ into

line 13.

With 11 cnr\e at waist-line draw line 3(i into

line l.v

With I) cnr\'e at wai^l-line draw line 37 into

Inie 14.

W Ith 12 curve at waist-line <lraw line 3S into

line 14.

With () curve at waist-line draw line 3'4 int<i

line 1.^.

W Ith 12 curve at wai>t-line draw line 40 into

line 1 .^.

XnTR'l'"..— 'I'lie i;.Mid> between ^'ores is u--nally

cut Mut so as nut tn make tc"i much thickness around

hips (see lar.iie darts between front pieces). 'Pile

seams are placed wherever the selvedge cdffe comes

i„ under a nlait. Thi- ilepends on the width of

bi W RIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK

STOCK COLLAR FOR SHORT NECK.

Draft No. 27.

I 'raw line 1 and s(|uarf Hik- J 1)\ line 1.

.\ U) l! is lialf-ncci< measure.S(|uare line 3 Ijy line 2.

B til C is width <il' ciillar. 1 ' _. inches in this case.

A til I'' is 1 ' .. inches.

1 )r,a\\ line 4 frmn C tn Iv

C til I ) is .'.s inch.

I)ra\\ line trniii 1) thrnutjh 1'. fur center frunt dt

illar.

r> til 1'' and 1) Id G are 'g inch each.

I 'raw line .^ fnmi E to G with T cur\e at E.

Draw line h Iri mi .\ tii F with T ciir\e at .\.

STANDING COLLAR WITH SLIGHT FLAREAT TOP.

PLAIN STOCK COLLAR.

Draft No. 28.

Square line 2 h\ line 1

.

.A tn 1! is hall' neck measure.S(|uare line .i 1)\' line _'.

.\ til I "i and 1! ti i L' are width nt' cnllar, 2 inchesin this case.

Square slmrl line fnnn C tn 1) Jj inch.

Draw line 4 frnm H throutjh 1).

I'l to E is '

) inch, and ]\ In F is wiiltli i.l" cnllar.

Draw line .s frum G tn 1". with 11 cur\e at !•".

Draw line (t intn line 2. with 11 cur\e at 1-.

II is 2' J inches frnm (~,. S(|uare up fmin 11 tn 1

line inch.

G tnI

is half inch. I'lace \' cur\e at 1 tnuchiui;

I ; draw liiU' 7.

MILITARY COLLAR.

Draft No. 29.

Square' line 2 li\ line 1.

A tn II is half neck measure.Square line .1 li\ line 2.

I! In C' and \ tn h" are width nf cnllar, 2 inchesin this cas(.'.

.'siin.-ue short line frnm C tn D '4 inch.

11 tn h", is >_. inch.

Draw line 4 frnm \\ thmumh D to G the width nf

cHar.I'-iaw liiu' .s mtn line 2 with 1! 1! cur\ e at E.Draw line fi frnm G tn ] with 111! cur\e at G.r>CL;in u|)]ier collar as fnllnws :

I )raw line 7 fri im E to G.

I! is hall wa\- lietween I'" and G.Square slinrt line upward frnm II tn I , D4 incli.

II tnI

is I

, inch.

Draw line'' frmnJ

to I4 inch hack nf G. with 23curve at j.

Draw line X frnm I'' tn j with 23 curve at F.

I'lace square half way lietween 1 and | with riudit-

hand cnrner nf square at F and draw line 10. mak-ing; K -''4 inches frnm \<

.

I'lace leftdiand cnrner nf square '4 inch hack of Gand touchiiio I ; draw line 11. making- E the widthnf collar. 2' 4 inches in this case.

Draw line 12 frnm K tn 1, with 23 curve at K.

Draft No. 30.

Scpiare line 2 liy line 1, and make ,\ to 11 lialf

neck measure.

Square line 3 hy line 2 and make LI to C width nf

cnllar 2 inches.

Square short line from C to D ' _> inch.

1 )raw line 4 from 11 to D.

.\ to h" is Vs inch.

Draw line .s from E to II with K curve at E.

E tn E is width nf cnllar.

J-" tn G is ', J inch or '4 nf width of cnllar.

Draw line 6 from G to 1) with K curve at G.

Draw line 7 from E to G with R curve at .A.

HIGH STANDING COLLAR WITH EXTREMEFLARE AT TOP.

Draft No. 3L

S<|uare line 2 by line 1 and make .\ to 11 hall neck

measure.

11 tn C is width nf cnllar. 3 inches.

Square shnrt line frmn C tn 1), ' j inch.

Draw line 4 frnm 11 tu 1) with 17 cur\'e at 11.

A tn \i is ;*4 inch.

Draw line .^ frnm E to 11 with 23 curve at E.

.\ In F is half width of collar, 1 i,j inches in this

case.

Square line (1 1)\ line 1

.

[' to G is same as .\ to E.

Draw- line 7 from E thrnugh G with (J curve at E.

l'". tn II is width nf cnllar 3 inches.

Draw line S frmn H tn D with 23 cur\e at H.

STORM COLLAR.

Draft No. 32.

S(|uare line 2 li\' line 1 and make .\ to 11 half neck-

measure.

.\ tn C is 1 ; J inch. Draw line 3 frnm 11 to C.

Draw line 8 from C to 11 with 23 curve at C.

S(|uare line 4 li\- line 3 and make I) the width of

Collar 3 inches.

C to E is 2' J inches or about one-third distance

between B and C.

This can be di\ ided into ninrc pieces if desired.

Square line .s by line 3 and make G the widlli

nt ci illar 5 inches.

I'ivot at It and cast a sweep forward and back-ward from G.

G to l\ and (^ to I are each one inch.

I'lace .\ cur\e at | and drawline (\ to I.

l'lace-23 ciu've at J and draw line 7 tn II.

I'lace Z ctii-\e at D and ilraw line ') to P..

C tn K is width nf collar, .-i inches.

1. is half wa\ lietwien A and K.

Srpiare line 10 li\ line 1

.

E to M is same as A to E.

Draw line 11 from C thrnu'. h M and irake X tho

width ol cnllar .s inches.

Draw- line 12 frnm 1 ) tn X w'th \' cur\'e at D.

WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BCh)\\

COLLARS, CUFFS &

DRAFT 3 8I

DRAFT 34


COLLAR FOR GARMENTS CLOSING AT THETHROAT.

Draft No. 33.

S<|uarf line 2 hy line 1 and make A to B lialf neckmeasure.

.'Square line 3 hy line 1 and make C the width nf

collar.

A to D is width of collar. D to E is '4 of widthol collar. s>j inch.

Draw line 4 from \i throni^h A. .\ to F is 1 inch,width of stand.

Draw line .^ from .\ ti > L', with 1 curve at .V.

I'lace 1 cur\e '4 mcli hack of F; then draw line'1 to JJ.

I'lace j curve ;u 1) ;ind <lraw line 7 from E to C.With R cni\e '4 inch hack of \' draw short line

to .\.

NECK BAND FOR SHIRTWAIST.

Draft No. 34.

i'i\wn\- line 2 hy jiru- 1 and make 11 half neckmeasure from .\.

U to C is ^V4 inch or width of lap,

\ tM I.) is width of neck-hand. 1 inch in this case.S.|uare line ?, hy line 1. S(|uare short lines up-

ward from B and C.

il to E is 1 inch. E to F is 2;A inches and \\ m Gis l-'4 inches.

Draw line 4 from F to C. with .S cnrxe at V and') curve '4 inch ahove E. C" t.. 11 is '4 mcIi. Drawhue .S In.ni C. to II with .S cur\c al (,

TURN-DOWN COLLAR FOR SHIRTWAIST.

Draft No. 35.

Sipiare line _' hy line 1 and irake \ to 15 half neckmeasure.

A tM C is 4'_> inches. C to 1) is one-lhird the dis-

tance from C to A.

\\ tn A is one-third the distance from C to .A.

Scpiare lines ,1 and 4 hy line 1.

1! to F is ts inch, and F to (', i^ _> mches.Sipiare sh<irt lines to line 4 from 1! and F.

1 1 to I is 1'.4 inch. Draw strait^ht line from Ct') 1.

C. tn j is I

_, inch and J to K is 7j. jucli.

Draw line .S into line 2 with I', 1', curve at |.

F to E is 2'i. inches.

Draw line 6 from K to 1, with lU'. cnr\e at K.Continue line () int<] line ,1 with Al ciit\e 's inch

helnvv L.

" '" -M i--'-I inch. Draw line 7 from M to H

w itii 1; cui\e at Al.

D to X is half neck measure. Square line 9 bvline 1.

Draw line 8 from H throui^h X and through line 9.

O to P is -Ks inch. DMaw line 10 from C to P with1 cur\-e at P.

.M to (J is same as F to L.

CIRCULAR CUFF.

Draft No. 36.

Draw line 1 and make .\ to 1'. full hand measure.

1! to C is wicllh of cuff, 4 inches in this case.

Sweep lines 2 and 3 fnni C and Ij. pivoting at A.

C to D is half hand measure.

Place S(|uare on .A and D ;tnd draw line 4 to I.

For fanc}' cuff draw line .S frtnii C to D and makeE half way l)etween C and V) ; then square line 6

hy line .t down to line 3.

G is D J inches fi'om F and H is 1'4 inches from

F.

Draw line 7 from I! xo II with P cur\-e at B.

Draw line cS from 11 to G straight.

Draw line 9 from (', to I with 15 curve at G.

HALF CIRCULAR CUFF.

Draft No. 37.

Draw line 1 and make .A to B full hand measure

B to C is width of cuiT.

Sweep lines 2 and 3 forward from B and C, pivot-

ing at A.

B to D is half hand measure.

Draw line 4 from .A through D and line 3.

From D to E is U] 2 inches, more or less.

S(|uare short line from E to F by line 4, and m.ake

V 2 inches from E.

G is half way between E and F. E to I is Y^

inch.

Square line .^ b.\ line 4. I to H is 2 inches.

I)raw short lines from PI tc) G and I to G.

J to K is 2^% inches on line 3.

Draw line (1 from II through K to L 4'4 inches.

Draw line 7 from L to C with P curve at L.

PLAIN CUFF.

Draft No. 38.

Draw line 1 and square line 2 l:)y line 1.

,A to B is half hand measure.

.A to C is -)4 inch,

C to D is width of cuff'. 4 inches in this case.

Place right-hand corner of square at B and touch-

ing C ; dr.aw line 3.

B to E is width of cufT.

Draw line 4 with J curve at C. Draw line .^ with

Icurve at D.

.All seams must he alloweil in cuttino- the cloth.

WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION ROOK

I

COLLARS, CUFFS & NECK BANDS

t)7

.

(58 WKIDKL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK

SAILOR OR BUSTER BROWNCOLLARS

Draft No 39.

Draft shirt waist pattern, then cut cjut and Lav

sli ntld'jr seams ahnist to-gether allowin.a: ^8 inch

spread at neck and '4 inch at armhole.

Draw line from side of neck to where you want the

])oint of cf.)llar or oiiening : then measure down l)nck

the dejith of coHar wanted. Shape collar as shownon draft No. 39 allowin.u' it to extend about 1 inch

outside f)f armhole, or any other shaiie prcfered.

In cuttin.y Chemisette or Dick^- for Sailor collar

be.L,nn as follows : S])read shoulders same as for

al)c)\-c Collar; tliL-n huyin li'acin.i^ ,i inches below hack

of neck, follow alon,t; center back around the neck,

and down center front about ,S niches below openin.t;-,

also aloni,; line from openinu u]) tn side of neck:

Now allow ,1 inches back of liiis Inie beuinini.;' .S inches

below opL-nin.t; at center froiii and allow the samea'nount amnnd tn center back.

<5> <oPLAITED WAIST

Draft No. 40.

The principle of cutting and spreading pattern to

allow for jilaits or fullnes is shown in the followin.q:

drafts: P'irst draw lines on iilain pattern for tuck or

plaits, the width desired ; after numbering' and cutt-

in.!.i apart on lines (which will be the ed.oe of tuck

when completed) s]iread each ]iiece twice the width

of the tuck. Re sure that the waist line of each piece

is opposite ; this is done by pivoting- at center of sjiace

near tiie top and castin.y a sweep from waist line to

waist line. (See Draft No. 40X)Repeat this with e.ich iiiece as shown in draft. Be-

uin laving l>laUs by foldin.y line 1 to line 1 and line 2

to line 2 : then continue same on fnjnt until you have

laid each jiiece liack to where it was before being-

separated for iilaits.

PLAITED WAIST

llUDRxAFT 40

DRAFT 3^)


DRAb'T NO. 4(1 XShows patlt-rn after liriiiy cut ami spread un gDoil^

SUCCESS ASSURED.

Everyone who uses WEIDEL'S SQUAREWill sooner or later have their share.

And after \iiii li-arn to draw the lines

Von are snre to see lietttr times.

It wont he lout; hefore \-on know the curves

And then von say I've s"ot hetler nerves.

Now and then \'ou seem to mutter

Some day I'll he a wonderful cutter.

Then you will see me on eas\- street

Because I know how to make a draft so neat.

When \-ou learn the s(|uare and curve conibiiie

Then vou will soon learn how to desiyii.

Good designers are alwavs in demand

If \ou can prove your work will stand.

I'lUt if you think you are in donht

Go to Weidel and he will help you out.

DRAF'IS 41, 4 1 A, and 41B

This same inc.'lliod i it' euttin;; and spreadinj.; iiattern

is usetl in sleeves or any gai'nu-nts leipiirin;.; extra

fullness. (See sleeve drafts No. 41 , 11 X, and 4lA.

Sleeve 41 is a plain 1 piece Lc.i;( )- Mutton witn lines

drawn where the plaits are to he added. 41 X shows

pattern after it is slashed and spri'ad on the material.

41 A is the same pattern with sjiacc cut out hetwi-en

front and back seam and scollops marked on lower

part of front. Space between front and back can be

.L;athered or plaileil


TUCKED SLEEVE

Draft No. 42

Draft a plain one piece Le;<-(J-Mutt<)n sleeve pat-

tern with small top, and draw lines as shown in draft

No. 42 also a line throiiyh center from top to bottom:

numbering them before cutting apart. Draft No. 42xshows the pattern cnt and spread on material. Theamount o s]iread pattern depends on the width of

tuck or fullness desired. For a 1 inch tuck spread

pattern 2 inches, keeping center line of pattern oncenter line of i.;iMids.

YOKES AND FLOUNCES.

Draft No. 43.

For yoke and panel with flounce begin as follows.

Draft (ilain .skirt |>attern and mark down waist line

the depth of yoke and width of panel, to hei.ght of

flounce, wanted in front : then graduate flounce or

shape desired Trace out yoke, panel and shape of

flounce on another piece of jiaper . cut the yoke in 3

or 4 places as shown in draft 43X, and lay each piece

to-gether at waist line. Cut the flounce every 3 or 4

inches nearly to the top edge and spread apart at bot-

tom from 1 to 3 inches. My this plan of adding full-

ness more ripple can be adde<l at side or wherever

desireil.

WEIDKL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK 71

CIRCULAR FLOUNCE.We Have Used Rice Silk for 7 Years

Draft No. '14. And ran rhfrrfully rri'miniK'nd it. It lia.s

Draft a plain skirt ami mark fnnu l..,tti.m tii. tin- prov^.,! satisfartor v at all times.hei,i,''ht of fldiniee wanted in front, .ilsn at side and

center hack ; tliL-n traee or tilt off lower iôrtK n and WLCIDEL i\: WKBSTER,spread pattern as shown ill draft Xo 44x If points Ladies Tail( .rill}.,^ Collco'e.or scollops are w.mted mark them on |iatti.rn an\'

sliape desired and cut and spread same as lor cireidar

"""^ FOR BUST FORMSOF ALL KINDS

SEE AD OF

M. A. HEIMAN MFG. CO.

For Tailors' Trimmings

READ

SHAPIRO'S cAD

IF YOU WANT TO LEARN

Millinery

SEE AD

FOR cTWILLINERY SCHOOL

For Ladies^ Tailor Cloths

WRlTh; TO

CUNNINGHAM WOOLEN CO.

SEE AD

SEE AD For PATENT

SHIRT GAUGEIn l)ark ot Bdok

Biggest Seller on the market

Write for lernis to agents ( bpecial premium offer

)

", ^^

TAILORS TRIMMINGS AND SUPPLIES

SEAM BINDING.

TAPE MEASURE,BELTING,

HAIR CLOTH,CANVAS.LININGS,THREAD

SEAM BINDERS.

Wl<: H.W'IO C'()XSKNTF>I> TO .M A K 1% rill-:

FOLLOW I NCi REDUCTION IX I'K'U'lsS

FOR TiiK BKXKFrr oi' 'riii<:

USFK'S 01-' THIS SVSTIOM

PRESS BOARDS,SHEARS

BUTTON HOLECUTTER.SQUARESYARD STICKS.

GAS IRONS.FELT.

NEEDLES.

Illustration No. 1, ^-

an extra lar,L;'c î—

oard, entirely T^^new, originated hv k^

^' VuViMiiiilml

ourselves.

llHll'/l!'.

Illustration Xo. 1 shows

the board opened to sli]) on

the skirt so that skirt can

be pressed witlmut reniov^-

ing or creasin.s;. Size---Leiig"th 55 inches, width l.i to 7

inches, height 8 inches, thickness 1'-' inches.

PRICE $4.00

Illustration N'n. 4 is a bust

jiressitig block, a \-ery usetul

article especiall\' tor pressiii'^ nt

ladies' coats.

PRICE $1.00

III. No. 3.

Illustralion Xn. ,'^ is a good all

around board, l)i)lted through, strung

and durable, will last a lite time.

Length .VI '- inclus, surt'ace-width

.S'l to4'i inches, thickness toji and

bottom 1 'i inches, height .S inches.

PRICE $1.50

III. No. 4.

III. No. 5, Bent Handle Shears

Carrv a full line of shears and

scissors in all sizes and i^rices.

Picture of 45-inch Stick.

i-4-4^ ^P4^P?iî-^»-T4^'-.-r.~rV '

. ' rV4^-FFi-i^T^V??^Fr-t^ 'i-TTrT^' » » i * I i i i i a_i S_l : 3 3 i 1 i. i a—i—I—i—i—i—1_f:r^-':-M'^'^t ,bf.,,^r>:hMT-;:|

45-inch beveled edge with l)rass cai)S

45 inch " " no

,i6-inch " " with " "

,i6-inch " ".no

All kinds of curve sticks.

All kinds of yard sticks.

Sn..s5 Gas Irons.

75 7 lb. Iron S4.5n

60 lodb. Iron 5.50

5(1 \1 to iodh .....6.50

Complete with stand, 3 ft. rubber hose.

820 N. North 9th StreetE. SHAPIROAll <ioi«ls F. <>. B. St. Louis, I\l<>.

ST. LOUIS, MO.

Ont'°^^ ^^^- to Cat. Div.

The Spirella Corset

!;

f'• '

THE CORSET WITH THE PERFECT STAY,

GUARANTEED Not to RUST, BREAK or Take a

Permanent Bend,

Recommended by Physici.ins and the Lead-

ing Tailoring Colleges throughout the country.

Made to Order only— in All Prevailing

Styles of Front and Back Laced Models.

Every Modiste Appreciates the Advantages

of a Properly Corseted Figure.

Expert Fittings made at the Spirella

Parlors, Century Building, St. Louis. Mo.,

or by appointment at your homes.

Special inducements to up to date Modists

in each locality to handle our line.

Terms and full mforniation cheerfully given.

Address all letters to

The Spirella Corset ParlorsALVA H. BLEW. Manager

Century Building ST. LOUIS, MO.

Phone. Olive 306

Factories: Meadvil'e, Pa.. Niagara halls. Canada;

Lelchworlh, England.

^4^jf^£Â>^^...'^-î^&?i..^fe»''V"-.^>^t^% %^mmi< V <^.^

THE MODEL PRINTERY. 6317 EASTON AVE.. ST. LOUIS

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INSTRUCTION BOOK FOR WEIDEL'S