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1970-1974 E-BODY (RS-5470) Revised: 7-1-2018 MOPAR INSTRUCTIONS 1970-74 E-BODY TRIANGULATED 4-LINK

INSTRUCTIONS 1970-74 E-BODY TRIANGULATED 4-LINK€¦ · 6. Making certain the differential is supported by jacks, with a helper remove the front and rear leaf spring bolts, keeping

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Page 1: INSTRUCTIONS 1970-74 E-BODY TRIANGULATED 4-LINK€¦ · 6. Making certain the differential is supported by jacks, with a helper remove the front and rear leaf spring bolts, keeping

1970-1974 E-BODY (RS-5470)

Revised: 7-1-2018

MOPAR INSTRUCTIONS – 1970-74 E-BODY TRIANGULATED 4-LINK

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Page 4: INSTRUCTIONS 1970-74 E-BODY TRIANGULATED 4-LINK€¦ · 6. Making certain the differential is supported by jacks, with a helper remove the front and rear leaf spring bolts, keeping

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Installation Instructions Triangulated 4-Link Rear Suspension System – Part # RS-5470

Mopar E-Body Vehicles

System Contents

Lower Forward Trailing Link Brackets (1 Left and 1 Right)

Lower Trailing Link Spacers (2)

Lower Rear Trailing Link Brackets (2)

Upper Forward Trailing Arm Bracket Bar

Upper Rear Trailing Arm Differential Mount Tabs (2 Short, 2 long)

Lower Trailing Arm Set w/Adjustable Rod Ends

Lower Trailing Arm Mounting Hardware Kit

Upper Trailing Arm Set w/Adjustable Rod Ends

Upper Trailing Arm Mounting Hardware Kit

Upper Coil Over Mount Brackets (1 Left and 1 Right)

Lower Coil Over Mount Machined Studs w/Hardware (2)

Coil Over Shocks w/ Springs (2 Each)

Coil Over Mounting Hardware Kit

Thank you for purchasing this Triangulated 4-Link Rear Suspension System for

Mopar E-Body Vehicles. This system is manufactured by Blue Moon Services LLC

d/b/a Control Freak Suspensions™ in Winter Springs, Florida. We believe this system is

the best available at any price. As with most aftermarket performance suspension

products, this system is not DOT approved. The end user is solely responsible for

determining the suitability of any and all such products, regardless of manufacturer.

Because this system and others like it are typically subjected to uses that could exceed its

mechanical limits, there is no warranty, expressed or implied. Blue Moon Services LLC

d/b/a Control Freak Suspensions™ cannot control how this product is installed or used.

By purchasing this product you are assuming all risks associated with its installation and

use and agree to having appropriate skills for its installation and use. Blue Moon

Services LLC d/b/a Control Freak Suspensions™, our vendors and suppliers will not be

held responsible, liable or accountable for any injury, damage, loss, penalties or fines that

occur, directly or indirectly, from the installation and use of this product.

Please note that this system includes components that must be welded accurately into

place. While installation is relatively easy for those with appropriate skills and

experience, novices or those who question their abilities should employ a professional for

installation. Fit is guaranteed on vehicles that are unmolested…that is cars that have not

suffered any chassis or unitized body damage. Such damage can bend or alter the

unitized chassis, making installation more difficult and may require chassis adjustment

and/or straightening by professionals before installation.

Read all of the instructions before starting installation.

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IMPORTANT NOTES:

1. All brackets in this kit must be welded into place. Be certain to remove carpeting,

insulation or other flammables from the area being welded or subjected to

welding heat.

2. Installation of this rear suspension system is straightforward, but ease of

installation is based upon your level of experience and ability.

3. By following these instructions, measuring properly, cutting and drilling

accurately, we strongly recommend that all welded parts get tack welded into

place prior to final welding. This allows you to fit the entire system before

final welding is done.

4. Some parts of this system may have been accurately threaded by our CNC

machine to receive the supplied adjustable rod and/or bushing ends. Be careful

not to cross thread the rod ends into these machined parts. Use anti-seize

compound on all threaded parts. We are not responsible for any cross threaded

parts.

5. All rod ends that are threaded into tubes must use the supplied jam nuts for safety.

6. Use extra caution in jacking and stabilizing the vehicle for this installation. The

differential will need to be removed and reinstalled, so we strongly recommend

the use of a professional lift to make the job easier and safer.

7. An assistant is recommended during parts of this installation.

8. Your existing exhaust system may require modification to fit correctly with the

new 4-link system.

What Else Do I Need?

Everything you need is included in the purchase price. Installation requires welding.

Disconnect your battery BEFORE welding. If you don’t, you run the risk of ruining

electronic ignition and entertainment components in the car.

Unpacking the System

Your rear suspension system arrives boxed and unassembled. Since this system requires

all brackets to be welded into place we are unable to pre-assemble the product. While

some parts may arrive assembled, please note that the assembled parts may not be

appropriately installed or tightened for actual use. You are responsible for making

certain all fasteners are installed correctly and appropriately tightened. If you ordered

brakes with your system, the brake kit is boxed separately and has its own set of

instructions provided by brake manufacturer.

Carefully open all boxes and remove all components. Lay out all of the components and

familiarize yourself with them. This will make installation quicker and easier. Read

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through the entire instruction book and familiarize yourself with the steps before

beginning installation. Once you have read through the instructions and identified all of

the parts, prepare your tools for installation. You are now ready to begin installation.

Preparing for Installation

1. Measure the ride height of the vehicle by taking measurements from the rocker

panel to the ground. Take a front and rear measurement on each side and note it in

a notebook. We recommend using masking tape at all four measuring points and

writing the measurement so it can always be seen. This is your baseline stock ride

height.

2. Support the differential with jacks. If you are using a lift, support with tall jacks.

With the differential safely supported, remove the sway bar and the end brackets

holding it in place against the frame.

3. Remove any exhaust components that may interfere with removing the rear

differential.

4. Disconnect the driveshaft from the differential.

5. Remove the shocks from both sides of the differential.

6. Making certain the differential is supported by jacks, with a helper remove the

front and rear leaf spring bolts, keeping the differential from turning while doing

so. You will remove the entire differential assembly.

7. Once the differential has been removed, take this opportunity to clean it up. After

the upper and lower trailing arm brackets have been welded into place, and the

original spring perches removed (if you choose to do so), you can paint the rear

before reinstalling with the new suspension system.

8. Examine the rails on

the car. Over the

years, the vehicle may

have been incorrectly

jacked up in some

areas which can

slightly “mushroom”

or otherwise move the

rails slightly out of

line. This is an

opportunity to

straighten or adjust the

rails prior to putting

the rear suspension

brackets in place.

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9. Prior to installing the brackets, the area around each bracket must be sanded to raw

metal and cleaned. We use an air die grinder with a 3” RoLok sanding disc. 80

grit works fine. Clean at least 1/2” beyond the bracket, leaving ample clean metal

for a good weld.

Installation of the Rear Suspension Brackets

1. Place the forward frame brackets into place. There is a right and left bracket.

Correct placement is shown from the inside of the rail and the outside of the rail

in the photos below. Make certain the area around the perimeter is cleaned to

bare metal allowing a good welding surface. The forward edge of the brackets

should be perpendicular to the chassis.

2. Move the differential into position making certain that it is centered between the

rails and at the ride height you have chosen. Now adjust the height of the rear axle

to your desired ride height, which is typically 12-13” between the upper and lower

shock mounts. Ride height is entirely up to you and the look / stance you want the

car to have. BUT…you also must consider undercar clearance and tire size.

The picture to the right is the inside of the rail. The bracket sits squarely against the parking brake cable clip.

The picture to the left shows the bracket on the outside of the rail, firmly against the sheet metal lip.

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3. At this time, you should set a rough pinion angle before locating the upper & lower

mounts. If you can get to it, hold an angle finder on the crank pulley and note the

angle. If you can’t get into the crank pulley area with an angle finder, use the angle of

the transmission tail-shaft. Now place the angle finder on the front of the rear axle

pinion and rotate the axle to duplicate the same angle. Placing the differential on two

(2) jack stands and using a floor jack to adjust the angle is the simplest way to make

even fine adjustments. Set the pinion angle from zero degrees to minus one-half

degree in accordance to the driveline angle. The picture below is the equivalent

of zero degrees:

4. Once you have the pinion angle set and the differential properly centered side-to-

side, place the brackets that are attached to the lower trailing arms onto the

differential. When you are satisfied that the brackets are in the appropriate

location and perpendicular to the differential axle tubes and the ground, place a

tack weld in the corners of the brackets just to hold them into position. If you

need to make an adjustment later you will only have to cut through a few tack

welds.

5. Measure the distance from

the forward frame bracket

mounting hole to the forward

face of the differential as

shown in the picture below. It

should measure 20.500”.

Measure both sides to make

certain the differential is

square.

Recommended: Equal & Opposite. For example, the transmission is three degrees down, so

the pinion should be three degrees up.

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6. Get both upper and lower trailing arms and screw the rod ends in until about three

threads are showing between the jam nut and the body of the rod end. Only hand

tighten the jam nut. The length of both upper trailing arms should match each

other as should the lower trailing arms.

7. Attach the lower trailing arms to the forward frame brackets. Hand tighten the

bolts.

8. Attach the rear lower trailing arm brackets to the lower trailing arms as shown in

the picture below. Only hand tighten the bolts. This provides the initial tack weld

position for the lower trailing arm brackets on the differential.

9. When you are satisfied that the bracket is in the appropriate location, place a tack

weld in the corners of the bracket just to hold it into position. If you need to make

an adjustment later you will only have to cut through a few tack welds.

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10. Place the upper trailing arm mounting bar into position. You can see the position

by viewing the CAD drawing on page 3. You will notice two holes drilled into

the end plates. These holes will line up with holes in the chassis rail. Use the two

snubber bolts you removed earlier to hold the bar into place. Some shims may

have been supplied with the kit just in case the fit was a little loose. We clamp

the bar into place so we can apply some tack welds to secure it. Make sure you

tack weld in places where you can cut through them if you need to.

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11. Prepare the vehicle for installation of the upper coil over mounts. This step will

require a little fabrication and some minor cutting of the edge of a sheet metal

bracket. The first picture shows where to mark the sheet metal to trip it. You can

use the bracket as a template to get a nice, even cut. The second picture shows

the sheet metal after trimming. We use an air die grinder with a 3” cutting wheel.

Regardless of what you use, make sure you have the right lines before cutting.

Measure twice. Be certain to wear safety equipment such as face shield, eye

protection and leather welding gloves.

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12. Place the left and right upper coil over brackets into position as shown in the

picture below. Carefully tack weld the parts into place by placing tack welds

where you can get to them should you need to shift bracket position. Again,

double check before placing the tack welds. It is better to get it right the first

time, even if it takes longer to do.

13. You are now ready to attach the upper trailing arms to the upper trailing mounting

bar. Just hand tighten the bolts. Attach the upper trailing arm differential tabs to

the differential end of the upper trailing arm. Each side gets one long tab and one

short tab. The longer tabs go inboard.

Hand tighten the bolts. Swing the

upper trailing arm above the

differential and allow the tabs to sit

onto the differential tubes. You can

now tack weld the tabs into place.

14. After checking all of the tack welds,

and being sure that everything is evenly

installed, you can remove the trailing

arms.

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15. The differential snubbers that are located on either side of the vehicle on the upper

part of the chassis rail can now be trimmed. You will leave about 1” of the

snubber in place. The cut is easily made with a hack saw as shown in the picture.

16. Before welding brackets to the differential, loosen the axles so heat does not build

up and melt the axle seals. Weld a little at a time and alternate from side to side.

17. Weld all of the tack welded brackets and parts under the vehicle into place.

NOTE: Before final welding of the under-vehicle parts, remove carpeting

and anything flammable from the interior of the vehicle.

18. brackets and the areas around the welds.

19. You can now reinstall the trailing arms and differential, making certain to tighten

all bolts.

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20. Prepare the coil over shocks for assembly. Paint some silver anti-seize compound

onto the bottom half of the threads on the coil over body. This will ensure than

when the coil over is assembled and under load that the nut will still turn without

galling. Thread the lower jam nut followed by the primary spring seat onto the

body, install the spring and attach the hat to hold the spring.

21. Attach the lower coil over mount studs into the holes on the lower trailing arm

brackets on the differential tubes. The lower you locate the stud, the lower the car

will sit. The higher you locate the stud, the higher the car will sit. Snug the nuts

but do not torque them.

22. Install the coil over shocks. We recommend adjusting the coil over shocks about

two full turns of threads after the spring is hand tightened. This is a good starting

point. Coil overs will settle up to ¾” after about twenty miles of driving, so set

the height of your vehicle about ¾” higher than you want it. It will settle.

23. You can now put the vehicle on the ground.

24. That’s it. You are done. Drive carefully.

PART TORQUE SPEC # OF BOLTS TO

TIGHTEN

Lower Trailing Arms 70 FT/LBS 4

Upper Trailing Arms 70 FT/LBS 4

Lower Coil Over Mounts 70 FT/LBS 4

Lower Coil Over Shock Bolt 60 FT/LBS 2

Upper Coil Over Shock Bolt 60 FT/LBS 2

We strongly recommend that all fasteners are re-torqued at between 25-50 miles of driving.

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DISCLAIMER In an effort to offer our

customers the value and service, Blue Moon

Services LLC d/b/a Control Freak Suspensions

(herein referred to as Control Freak) reserves the

right to change suppliers, specifications, colors, prices, materials. Each of the previous items is

subject to change without notice. Control Freak is not responsible for any typographical errors or

misinterpretations. Quantities are limited on some items.

WARRANTY DISCLAIMER The purchaser understands and recognizes that racing parts,

specialized high performance equipment, and all parts and services sold by Control Freak, are

exposed to many and varied conditions due to the manner in which they are installed and used.

Control Freak makes no warranties, either express or implied, including any warranty of

merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose other than those contained in its current catalog

with respect to the goods identified on the face of the invoice. There is no warranty expressed or

implied as to whether the goods sold hereby will protect purchaser or ultimate user of such goods

from injury or death. Control Freak assumes no liability after this period.

DAMAGE CLAIMS Always inspect your package upon delivery. Inspect all packages in the

presence of the delivery driver. The driver must note any damage. Ask the driver the Carrier’s

procedures for handling damage claims. You must hold the original box, packing material and

damaged merchandise for inspection or the carrier will not honor the claim. Notify Control Freak

for instructions on returning damaged goods. Control Freak is not responsible if no notification is

given within two (2) days of receipt.

SHORTAGES Always check the contents of your delivery to insure all the parts that you

ordered were received. Please read the invoice. Double check all packing materials, small items

may be wrapped inside with these products. Shortages may occur from damage to the box, so

save all packing materials. Inspect the box for holes that would allow parts to fall out. If you are

missing any item(s) be sure to check your invoice for back orders or canceled items before calling

the customer service department. If Control Freak has to split a shipment into multiple boxes,

packages may be delivered on different days. You need to contact the customer service

department within 5 days of delivery to assure the prompt replacement. Control Freak assumes no

liability after this period.

REFUSALS All refused COD customers will be billed a 15% restocking charge plus freight to

and from the destination! If you have questions please contact Control Freak.

WARRANTY CLAIMS If an item has a manufacturer’s warranty as being free from defects

we will exchange that item. If the item has been used and you are requesting warranty work, this

may take up to 30 days as warranty work is done in-house by Control Freak. If you have any

questions please contact customer service.

RETURNS Control Freak wants you to be satisfied with your purchase. If within 30 days after

you receive your shipment you are not satisfied, you may return the item for refund or exchange.

All exchanged or returned merchandise must be in original factory condition with no

modifications or alterations. Returned merchandise must include all packaging materials,

warranty cards, manuals, and accessories. If the items being returned need to be repackaged there

will be a re-packing charge. Re-pack the item in a sturdy box and include a copy of your invoice

and complete the form on the back of the invoice. You must ship orders back PRE-PAID. WE

DO NOT ACCEPT COD SHIPMENTS. All exchanges need to have reshipping charges

included. Items that are returned after 30 days are subject to 15% restocking charges. Absolutely

no returns on custom built suspension systems or other special order merchandise.

**Some items may not be street legal in some countries. Such items may be legal for racing vehicles only which may

never be used upon a highway

IMPORTANT

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MOPAR INSTRUCTIONS – 1970-74 E-BODY TRIANGULATED 4-LINK

Control Freak Suspensions™

485 S. Shell Rd., Suite 5B

DeBary, Florida 32713

Toll Free: (888) 325-6462

Direct: (407) 696-2772

Fax: (407) 696-6216

Email: [email protected]

www.FreakRide.com