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AMAZING ROAD TRIPS34
BEST TRIPSIRELAND’S
This edition written and researched by
Fionn Davenport, Belinda DixonCatherine Le Nevez, Oda O’Carroll
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
MAP LEGEND
SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK
% Telephone Number
h Opening Hours
p Parking
n Nonsmoking
a Air-Conditioning
i Internet Access
W Wi-Fi Access
v Vegetarian Selection
s Swimming Pool
E English-Language Menu
c Family-Friendly
# Pet-Friendly
Tips from Locals
Top Tips
Link Your Trips
Trip Detour
5 Eating
Family
History & Culture
Food & Drink
Outdoors
Essential Photo
Walking Tour
4 Sleeping
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Ireland.......................... 7
Ireland Classic Trips........................ 8
Ireland Highlights............................12
If You Like....................................... 22
Need to Know...................................24
City Guide........................................ 26
Ireland by Region........................... 32
ON THE ROAD
DUBLIN & EASTERN IRELAND............................35
1 Ireland’s Highlights................7 Days 39
2 The Long Way Round.....................14 Days 55
3 A Week Around Dublin.......................3 Days 69
4 East to West.........................7 Days 77
5 The Boyne Valley...........2 Days 85
6 Ancient Ireland.....................4 Days 93
7 Monasteries, Mountains & Mansions.............3 Days 101
8 Wicklow Mountains...............3 Days 109
Walk Track/Path
River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier
BeachCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)ParkForest
Sportsground
International
Cliff
Capital (National)Capital(State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
StepsPlaza/Mall
PedestrianOverpass
Tunnel
Walk RouteLinked TripTrip DetourTrip Route
Airport
UndergroundTrain Station
Train/Railway
Cable Car/Funicular
Transport
US Interstate Hwy US National Hwy
California State Hwy
ReservationUrban Area
Trip Stop
Tram
Trip Numbers
2
#9
Walking tour
Trip Detour
Hydrography
Areas
Boundaries
Population
Routes
Highway Route Markers
[Ù97
VUÓ5dk44
Trips
Parking
1
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimarySecondary
Unsealed Road
place-holdermap
Walk Track/Path
River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier
BeachCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)ParkForest
Sportsground
International
Cliff
Capital (National)Capital(State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
StepsPlaza/Mall
PedestrianOverpass
Tunnel
Walk RouteLinked TripTrip DetourTrip Route
Airport
UndergroundTrain Station
Train/Railway
Cable Car/Funicular
TransportUrban Area
Trip Stop
Tram
Trip Numbers
2
#9
Walking Tour
Trip Detour
Hydrography
Areas
Boundaries
Population
Routes
Route Markers
Trips
Parking
1
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimarySecondary
Unsealed Road
Wall
E-Road NetworkNational Network
E44
M100
CONTENTSCONTENTS
9 Carlow Back Roads.............3 Days 117
a Kilkenny’s Treasures................3 Days 125
b Wexford & Waterford................5 Days 135
c Blackwater Valley Drive.............2 Days 143
d Family Fun...........................3 Days 151
CORK & SOUTHWEST IRELAND..........................159
e Ring of Kerry........................4 Days 163
f Dingle Peninsula........... 3–4 Days 175
g Southwest Blitz..........................4 Days 185
h Southwestern Pantry......................5 Days 199
i West Cork Villages...................7 Days 207
j Shannon River Route.............4 Days 215
Cork &Southwest
Irelandp159
Galway &the West of
Irelandp231
Belfast &the North of
Irelandp299
Dublin &Eastern Ireland
p35
3
Contents cont.
k The Holy Glen............ 2–3 Days 223
GALWAY & THE WEST OF IRELAND..........................231
l Best of the West..................6 Days 235
m Musical Landscapes.............5 Days 247
n Mountains & Moors...................6 Days 257
o Loughs of the West............. 3–4 Days 267
p North Mayo & Sligo.....................4 Days 275
q Sligo Surrounds................5 Days 283
r County Clare........................7 Days 291
BELFAST & THE NORTH OF IRELAND..........................299
s Tip to Toe.........................10 Days 303
t The North in a Nutshell..........10 Days 317
u Delights of Donegal...................7 Days 331
v Inishowen Peninsula................3 Days 339
w Northwest on Adrenalin.................4 Days 347
x From Bangor to Derry....................4 Days 355
y The Antrim Coast...........3 Days 365
ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS
Ireland Driving Guide....................373
Ireland Travel Guide......................378
Language....................................... 386
Index.............................................. 392
4
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The Long Way Round
14 DAYS 1300KM / 807 MILES
GREAT FOR
HBJ
BEST TIME TO GO You’ll have the best
weather (and crowds)
in June and August, but
September is ideal.
I ESSENTIAL PHOTO
Killyhoey Beach from
the top of Horn Head.
K BEST TWO DAYS
Stops 7 to 9 allow you
to experience the very
best of the wild west,
including a day trip to
the Aran Islands.
Dublin Full to the brim with art,
literature, music and nightlife
2 Why go in a straight line when you can perambulate at leisure?
This trip explores Ireland’s jagged, scenic and spectacular
edges; a captivating loop that takes in the whole island.
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The Burren
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Dublin
Belfast
WestportPhotogenic Georgian
town with a musical
reputation
600 km
InishmórWind-lashed, cliff-protected World
Heritage island
740 km
ArdmoreSecluded seaside
village with ancient Christian ruins
1300 km
Giant’s CausewayOne of the natural
wonders of the world
244 km
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
55
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KERRY
LAOIS
WATERFORD
WICKLOW
CLARE
CORK
TIPPERARY
WESTMEATH
WEXFORD
KILDARE
KILKENNY
OFFALY
CARLOW
LIMERICK
GALWAY
St George'sChannel
NorthSound
A T L A N T I CO C E A N
FergusBay
LoughCorrib
Riv
erSh
ann
on
Cobh
Mountmellick
Clonakilty
Durrow
Kilrush
Fethard
Abbeyleix
Portumna
LismoreDingle
Bunratty
Doolin Kilfenora
Kilbeggan
Roscrea
Tarbert
Dungarvan
Maynooth
Kilkee
Roundstone
Castletownshend
Baltimore
Ardmore
Schull
KilmoreQuay
Sneem
Caherdaniel
Portmagee
Kells
Castlemaine
Oughterard
Annascaul
Cahir
Dalkey
Adare
Athenry
Tramore
MiltownMalbay
Caherciveen
Newbridge
Ferns
Waterville
Gort
Loughrea
Ballybunion
Kildare
Kells
Corofin
Malahide
Listowel
Kenmare
Athlone
Ennis
Nenagh
Ballinasloe
Bantry
Carlow
Youghal
Tullamore
Glengarriff
RosslareHarbour
Dungarvan
Clonmel
Enniscorthy
Howth
Tipperary
Tralee
NewRoss
Wicklow
Clifden
Mallow
Birr
Cork
Galway
Cashel
Limerick
Wexford
Killarney
Kilkenny
Waterford
DUBLIN
BurrenVillage
KillarneyNational
Park
ConnemaraNationalPark
Gougane BarraForest Park
050 km
0 25 miles#e
1 Ireland’s Highlights The best of Ireland’s five-star
cultural and natural attractions. 7 DAYS
14 Ring of KerryPass jaw-dropping scenery as
you circumnavigate the Iveragh
Peninsula. 4 DAYS
16 Southwest BlitzThe best of the southwest
coast, countryside and cosmopolitan city life. 4 DAYS
22 Musical LandscapesA ride round County Clare’s
hottest trad music spots. 5 DAYS
28 Tip to ToeThe ultimate pan-Irish experience. 10 DAYS
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LEITRIM
MAYO
SLIGO
DOWN
MONAGHAN
DONEGAL
DUBLIN
TYRONE
LONGFORD
CAVAN
ANTRIM
MEATH
FERMANAGHARMAGH
ROSCOMMON
LOUTH
DERRY/LONDONDERRY
I R E L A N D
N O R T H E R NI R E L A N D
SligoBay
NorthChannel
StrangfordLough
IrishSea
LowerLoughErne
LoughRee
LoughNeagh
Carndonagh
Clones
Carrick-on-Shannon
Kells
Newport
Falcarragh
Killyleagh
Ballyliffin
Claddaghduff
Dunfanaghy
Burtonport
Gortahork
Glenties
Strokestown
TaraTrim
Ardara
Dungloe
DunlewyLimavady
Kells
BangorErris
Ballycastle
Leenane
KnockSlane
BoyleCarrickmacross
Cavan
Maghery
Ballycastle
Greencastle
Bruckless
Navan
Antrim
Newtownards
Coleraine
Newcastle
Roscommon
Holywood
Westport
Letterkenny
Portstewart
Ballymena
Ballina
Mullingar
Lisburn
Larne
Castlebar
Carrickfergus
Omagh
Bundoran
Strabane
Donegal
DLondonderry
erry/
Craigavon
Buncrana
Portadown
Sligo
ArmaghDownpatrick
Newry
Lurgan
MonaghanEnniskillen
Banbridge
Dundalk
Drogheda
Bangor
BELFASTGlencolumbcille
KilbroneyForest Park
KillykeenForest Park
CastlewellanForest Park
Lough NavarForest Park
Dún an RíForest Park
CastleCaldwell
Forest Park
CuilcaghMountain
Park
Gortin GlenForest Park
BallycroyNationalPark
GlenariffForest Park
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2 The Long Way RoundIreland’s crenellated coastlines,
vibrant port cities and island
treasures. 14 DAYS
21 Best of the WestThe ultimate tour of Ireland’s
best westerly sights. 6 DAYS
29 The North in a NutshellBig cities, big-name sights,
hidden beaches, tiny islands –
an epic drive. 10 DAYS
11
1010
IRELAND
JOH
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©
ST
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DE
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ICS
/ G
AR
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OR
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©
1 Ireland’s Highlights Brave the elements to get to Skellig Michael, the Unesco World Heritage Site and largest of the Skellig Islands
g Southwest Blitz Plant a kiss on the famous Blarney Stone at the 15th-century Blarney Castle
t The North in a Nutshell Queen’s Quay big sh scultpure in Belfast
What is a Classic Trip? All the trips in this book show you the best of Ireland, but we’ve chosen eight as our all-time favourites. These are our Classic Trips – the ones that lead you to the best of the iconic sights, the top activities and the unique Irish experiences. Turn the page to see the map, and look out for the Classic Trip stamp throughout the book.
IRELAND
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t1
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KERRYBeen Hill(668m)
Mt Baurtregaum(850m)
Knockboy(706m)
Mt Gabriel(407m)
Barraboy Mtn(412m)
Knocknagorraveela(507m)
Carrantuohil(1039m)
Knockgour(481m) Mt Seefin
(491m)
Knocknadobar(688m)
Coomacarrea(772m)
Mt Carrauntoonhill(1040m)
Sheep'sHead
AnnaghBog
BolusHead
DoulusHead
DinglePeninsula
InchPoint
IveraghPeninsula
Sheep's HeadPeninsula
Mizen HeadPeninsula
Slieve MishMountains
Lamb'sHead
CahaMountains
Slieve MiskishMountains
DerrynasaggartMountains
ShehyMountains
DurseyHead
BearaPeninsula
Macgillycuddy'sReeks
Cod'sHead
CoulaghBay
DerrynaneBay
DunmanusBay
CastlemaineHarbour
KenmareRiver
Kells Bay
BantryBay
RossbeighStrand
BallinskelligsBay
DingleBay
LoughLeane
DerianaLough
GouganeBarraLake
LoughCurrane
Lough Caragh
LoughAllua
KillarneyNationalPark
RiverInn
y
Illen
Ri
ver
Glencar
Aughacasla
Moll'sGap
Darreenafoyle
Kilgarvan
Castlecove
Millstreet
Castleisland
Lauragh
InchFarranfore
Rathmore
Lispole
Parknasilla
Dingle
Knightstown
Ballydavid Ballydesmond
Waterville
Lougher
Adrigole
AhakistaKilcrohane
Tuosist
Castletownbere
Ardgroom
RosscarberyLeap
SkibbereenBallydehob
Camp
Durrus
Drimoleague
DunmanwayKealkill
BallylickeyEyeries
Allihies
Tahilla
Sneem
Derrynane
Ballinskelligs
Kells
Glenbeigh
CastlemaineAnnascaul
Cloghane
Glengarriff
Killorglin
Killarney
Kenmare
Caherdaniel
Caherciveen
Bantry
Gougane BarraForest Park
Glanteenassig ForestRecreation Area
##5
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4¼N70
4¼N22
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TIPPERARY
WATERFORD
SevenHeads
Vee Gap
KnockmealdownMountains
BlackwaterValley
GreatIsland
PowerHead
KnockadoonHead
NaglesMountains
OldHead ofKinsale
BoggeraghMountains
A T L A N T I CO C E A N
CorkHarbour
KinsaleHarbour
ClonakiltyBay
Youghal Bay
CourtmacsherryBay
InniscarraReservoirCarrigadrohid
Reservoir
RiverBlackwater
AllowRiver
River Bandon
River Blackwater
RylaneTemplemichael
Coachford
Villierstown
Cappoquin
Clashmore
Aglish
SandyCove
Tallowbridge
PassageWest
Fermoy
Castletownroche
Shanagarry
Newmarket
Ballyduff
Buttevant
Clonakilty
Kanturk
Cloyne
Lismore
Ring
Macroom
Inchydoney
Timoleague
Summercove
Liscarroll
Doneraile
Killeagh
Rathcormack
Ballycotton
Kilbrittain
Ballinhassig
Kinsale
Ringaskiddy
Crosshaven
Crookstown
InnishannonBandon
Courtmacsherry
Garrettstown
Butlerstown
Castlefreke
y
Mallow
BlarneyYoughal
MidletonBarryscourt
Castle
Cobh
Fota Wildlife Park
Cork
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1 Killarney Killarney’s biggest attraction, in every sense, is Killarney National Park (p 171 ), with magni cent Muckross Estate at its heart. If you’re not doing the classic Ring of Kerry route that brings you through the park, you should de nitely consider a detour here. Right in town, there are pedestrian entrances to the park opposite St Mary’s Cathedral (Cathedral Pl), a superb example of neo-Gothic
revival architecture, built between 1842 and 1855.
Also worth a visit in the town centre is the 1860s Franciscan Friary (Fair Hill), with an ornate Flemish-style altarpiece, some impressive tilework and, most notably,
stained-glass windows by Harry Clarke. The Dublin artist’s organic style was in uenced by art nouveau, art deco and symbolism.
Plunkett and College Sts are lined with pubs; behind leaded glass
c Blackwater Valley Drive
Youghal is the starting point for a glorious drive through the Blackwater Valley.
i West Cork Villages
Head 76km southwest of Youghal to Kinsale to wind your way around West Cork’s picturesque peninsulas.
LLLIINNNKKK YYYOOOUUURRR TTTRRRIIPP
On this drive around the country’s stunning southwest you’ll encounter soaring stone castles, dizzying sea cliffs, wide, sandy beaches, crystal-clear lakes, dense woodlands and boat-fi lled harbours. Villages spill over with brightly painted buildings, vibrant markets and cosy pubs with toe-tapping live music, perfectly poured pints and fantastic craic. It all conjures up iconic impressions of Ireland.
Southwest Blitz 16
187
CO
RK &
SOU
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EST IRELAN
D 1
6 SOU
THW
EST BLITZ
Look out for the Classic Trips stamp on our favourite routes in this book.
1 Ireland’s Highlights................7 Days 39
2 The Long Way Round.....................14 Days 55
e Ring of Kerry........................4 Days 163
g Southwest Blitz..........................4 Days 185
l Best of the West..................6 Days 235
m Musical Landscapes.............5 Days 247
s Tip to Toe.........................10 Days 303
t The North in a Nutshell..........10 Days 317
5
Oda O’Carroll From the far-flung reaches of Midwest Ireland, I upped sticks and moved to Dublin to study communications. After a stint as a TV researcher I went on to direct short films and TV documentaries in between travel writing for Lonely Planet and other (lesser!) publications. I’ve worked on titles like Britain, France, Corsica, Ireland and Dublin and now live in Dublin with my husband and three daughters.
My Favourite Trip l Best of the West It’s hard to beat this coastline for sheer scenic diversity: windswept beaches, great stretches of mountains and super-friendly towns.
Catherine Le Nevez My wanderlust kicked in when I road-tripped across Europe aged four. I’ve been hitting the road at every opportunity since, completing a Doctorate of Creative Arts in writing, a Masters in professional writing and post-grad qualifications in editing and publishing along the way. With Celtic connections including Irish and Breton heritage (and a love of Guinness!), I’ve travelled throughout every county in the emerald isle, and covered 20 of them for various Lonely Planet titles.
My Favourite Trip f Dingle Peninsula This trip ticks all the boxes: perfect breakers, fresh-as-it-gets seafood, phenomenal scenery and a poetic soul.
399
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end –
broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS
Read more about Belinda at: www.lonelyplanet.com/members/belindadixon
Belinda Dixon I first visited Northern Ireland 20 years ago, when armed soldiers patrolled the streets. Witnessing the transformative power of the peace process in Belfast and Derry on this research trip has been inspiring. But what is also always appealing is getting off Ireland’s main routes onto the cliff-clinging minor roads; sometimes mud spattered, sometimes sand fringed, they’re unfailingly memorable drives.
My Favourite Trip v Inishowen Peninsula This is real back-roads Ireland: mountain passes, sweeps of golden beach and tiny, traditional communities. Plus Derry’s powerful past, too.
Fionn Davenport It’s funny how you can least know that which is most familiar to you. Irish-born, bred and raised, I’ve lived in and out of Ireland all of my life. But it was only when I began writing about it 20 years ago that I began to really get to know it – and this guide has been especially rewarding. I’ve taken to the road and focused less on where I was going and more on what I could see along the way.
My Favourite Trip c Blackwater Valley Drive It’s as far from my home in Dublin as I got, but on this short trip I finally got to understand what my Waterford mates had told me about their beloved Blackwater Valley.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9831st edition – Mar 2013ISBN 978 1 74220 986 9© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 201310 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet
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MORE WRITERS
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, dis-claim all liability arising from its use.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’