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LAMINITIS - A LIFE SENTENCE PREVENT IT wITh ouR ExPERT AdVICE

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✓Whether you ride once a week at a riding school or plan to event at Advanced level this season on your own horse, finding the right instructor who understands your fears, goals and way of thinking is vital. A good instructor will

inspire you, fill you with confidence, help you set realistic goals and be the guiding influence you need to have fun and achieve all you want to on horseback. So here’s how to find the right instructor for you.

Back to schoolBritain is home to more than 3,000 riding schools and finding the one that’s right for you can take a bit of homework. To help regulate yards and set recognised high levels of safety, teaching and equine welfare, the British Horse Society (BHS) has set up its approvals scheme.

FIND YOUR INSPIRATIONKeen to improve your riding, but not sure where to start? Our guide to finding a great riding school or instructor will help you make this the year you achieve your goals.

Hundreds of centres have now signed up to the scheme across the UK and Ireland, and are inspected yearly. For a list of BHS-approved riding schools in your area, visit www.bhs.org.uk and click on ‘approved centres’.

The Association of British Riding Schools (ABRS) has been running its riding school approval scheme since 1954, and a list of 500 or so approved centres can be found on www.abrs-info.org – click on ‘find your local riding school’.

Remember that a great riding school will…� Assess you as an individual and offer well-supervised, progressive instruction in a safe environment on suitable, well-schooled horses� Be happy to answer any questions you have on riding and horse care� Encourage you to get involved with your horse before and after a lesson, and be willing to expand your know-how by showing you

✗

A list of BHS qualified

instructors can be found at

www.bhs.org.uk – click on register

of instructors. For a list of

accredited coaches in your area,

visit the relevant association’s

website: www.britisheventing.

com; www.bsja.co.uk or

www.britishdressage.

co.uk

Look now

The BHS Directory of Where to Ride, Train and Stable Your Horse is priced at £14.99 from www.amazon.co.uk

Tina’s top tips� If you’re out competing and your instructor can’t be there, ask someone to video you, as nerves can turn us into different riders and it’s important for your instructor to see this� If you’re really struggling and have been for some time, ask your instructor to appraise the partnership between you and your horse. It might be that you’re battling away on the wrong horse, and making the decision to sell him and get a more suitable one will transform your riding. You pay a lot for your hobby and should enjoy it!� Check whether your instructor has insurance should anything happen to you or your horse during a lesson, or while your instructor is riding him

how to tack up and rug up, etc� Run a safe, tidy, calm yard where the welfare of the horses is the first concern, and the horses appear well fed and contented in their work� Be happy for you to go and watch a lesson first to get a feel for the level and type of instruction, and give you a chance to chat to other riders about their experiences

But beware if…� The yard is untidy and unsafe, with unsupervised novice riders� The horses are unresponsive to handle and ride, and show unsafe behaviour – for example, rearing, bucking or napping� Riders aren’t individually assessed and are given horses unsuitable for their experience� The horses’ welfare is questionable� Class sizes are large and lessons are disorganised

Help and supportWhether you’re learning at a riding school or having private instruction on your own horse, it’s hugely important you feel confident to talk through your problems with your instructor, and feel that he or she is on your wavelength.

“It’s always a good idea to ask someone who’s of a similar ability or having similar problems to you who they recommend, as some instructors are really good at building confidence, while others are good at pushing people but aren’t so sympathetic to nervous riders,” says Tina Trundle BHSII, an event rider and instructor based in South Lincolnshire.

“Ideally, your instructor should have teaching qualifications, but most importantly you should go to someone you respect as a rider. I like to go to people who I know

can get on my horse and do it a lot better than I can, and who are competing and know what the game is all about.

“I’d say 95% of my clients compete at some level and so are working towards goals, which makes my job easier. But whatever your level, you should always expect to be appraised as an individual. If you’re on your own horse, chances are your instructor will want to see you warm up as you would at home. They can then appraise what you’re doing and set achievable goals, aiming for a steady progress and reassessing your goals as you achieve them.

“Above all, be honest and tell your instructor exactly what you’ve done, what you want to achieve – and how you feel – as so much of riding is psychological and a lesson can become a counselling session!”

What causes sweet itch?Q Is it the heat or

insects that cause sweet itch, or is it

a combination of the two?Holly, York

Gil Riley says

A Sweet itch is caused by the horse or pony

having an allergic reaction to the saliva of the biting midge, culicoides. There are many species of culicoides, some preferring to bite along the back of the horse, while other species target the belly area. The fly injects its saliva into the horse’s skin in order to suck up blood for a meal. Classic sweet itch is caused when, in addition to the pain of the bite, the horse has an allergic reaction to the saliva of the midge.

This reaction causes an intense itch, which the horse will attempt to relieve by rubbing against solid objects, or biting at the area. This extra trauma then causes hair loss and damage to the skin.

The likelihood of a horse having an allergic reaction to midge saliva increases with age and tends to get worse each year.

VET

Sweet itch can be seen in any breed but is most common in Welsh and Icelandic ponies

HORSE CARE

Talk to our vet free online at�Vet speak

horse answers sweet itch special

�

www.yourhorse.co.uk� YOUR�HORSE�55

Keeping him comfortable

Q How can I minimise the effects of sweet itch? My horse suffered very

badly with it last year. Abbey, Staffordshire

Gil Riley advises

A Unfortunately, now your horse has developed this allergic

reaction, it will never go away. However, there’s lots you can do to prevent the problem recurring.

You need to prevent midges from biting your horse. Make your premises less attractive to flies by removing any standing water that collects in old tyres or buckets, as these provide breeding grounds. Ensure there’s good drainage in stables and paddocks, and no moist areas created by leaking taps or water systems. The same applies to any wet organic material such as manure, old bedding and wasted hay, which should be collected daily and composted

Q I’ve heard there’s a new vaccine for sweet itch – is this true?

Jess, on email

Ellie Hoyes replies

A Yes – all being well! The National Sweet Itch Centre has been

running trials of the BioEos vaccine, with promising results. At the end of last year they got the go ahead from the Veterinary

Medicines Directorate to continue the trials with 500 horses and ponies.

Three initial injections were given two weeks apart, followed by feeding capsules every two weeks, until the end of the sweet itch season. Of these, 4% of horses were cured and 70% made improvements. Hopefully the drug will be available to all sweet itch sufferers soon.

VET

Q I think my mare may be showing the first sign of sweet itch.

What are the symptoms?Suzie, on email

Ellie Hoyes replies

A Typical symptoms of sweet itch include an allergic reaction

where the insects feed, which is usually in the mane and tail. Skin lesions appear here and sometimes also may also appear around the ears and head.

The lesions cause intense itching and then rubbing. The constant rubbing can then cause inflamed, sore and bleeding skin, bald patches and perhaps secondary infections.

Symptoms include severe itching, hair loss, skin thickening and flaky dandruff. Weeping sores may also occur.

Top tipFor specific

specialist advice,

call the National

Sweet Itch Helpline

on 01352

771718

Investing in a quality fly rug

is essential

in a covered pile. A good idea is to keep your muck heap covered in black plastic – this helps keep the flies off, deterring breeding, and the heat generated beneath the plastic will kill any fly eggs and larvae that are developing there.

Culicoides are most active around dusk and dawn so simply stabling your horse at these times can be a big help. If possible, close stable doors and windows, and use a very fine fly screen over the stable door. Increasing airflow in the stable by using a fan can also help. Avoid turning your horse out in wet, boggy fields and, if possible, move him to a more exposed, windy site.

Use of an effective fly repellent is an absolute must. However, it’s difficult to predict which ones will prove effective in your particular case, as this can vary with region and

weather conditions.

Ask other owners, especially those on your yard where they will be dealing with the same midge challenge, what they find effective. Be prepared to try a variety of repellents before you find one that works for you.

Fly rugs are a great help for preventing culicoides midges from attacking the horse’s body. The extent to which bites are prevented depends greatly on the quality of the material of the

rug. The more expensive rugs – costing anything from £150 to £250 – can prove a wise long-term investment. Some rugs also have attachments to protect the belly, neck and head. It’s best to start using a fly rug before the fly season starts so the protective barrier is in place.

If your horse has already started itching, it may be necessary to seek veterinary treatment, as the irritation won’t cease with the use of the rug and an expensive rug can be destroyed quickly by itching.

Vaccine on the horizon

Vaccine trails have produced positive results

What are the symptoms of sweet itch?

Image courtesy of the N

ational Sweet Itch H

elpline

The mane and tail are often the first areas to show symptoms

Without attention, these sores can suffer secondary infection.

The top of the tail and the mane are most commonly affected. The neck, withers, hips, ears and forehead, and in more severe cases the mid-line of the belly, the saddle area, the sides of the head, the sheath or udder and the legs, may also suffer.

The horse may swish his tail vigorously, roll frequently and attempt to scratch on anything within reach. He may pace endlessly and seek excessive mutual grooming from field companions.

HORSE CARE

horse answerscelebrity

THIS MONTH

This month’s expert is National Grand Prix British Champion Maria Eilberg who answers your questions on dressage


Making the trot more expressive

newseries

RIDING

Ride a 10m circle at

every marker – this will

help to engage your

horse’s hindlegs

Top tip

Q How do I achieve more elevation in the trot?Beth, on email

A Greater elevation is achieved by improving the engagement from behind. You have to work at creating

more energy and using the half-halt to keep it in the hindleg – you don’t want the trot to run away from you.

If you feel your horse gets a little strong, use trot-walk-trot and trot-halt-trot transitions. Riding transitions within the trot will also help to engage the hindleg.

Q I find I’m constantly nudging my mare along as she can be

quite lazy. What can I do to get her to move off my leg more effectively?Jess, on email

A The key is not to get in the habit of nagging. If you do, your mare

will switch off and become even less responsive to your leg.

You want to be able to remind your horse with your leg, but you should otherwise keep your leg still. Have you tried some spurs? These could help in getting your mare to respond to your leg the first time you ask. You could also try the whip.

I always use my leg first and, if there’s no response, I use the whip as a reminder. If you find she bucks as you come a bit stronger with the leg or the whip, don’t be put off, stick with it and she’ll come around to accepting it.

Help me get her moving

Used correctly, spurs can make for a more responsive horse

RIDING

Riding transitions will help to engage the hocks and create more elevation in the trot


celebrity horse answers

�Need help?If you have a question that you want answering by our celebrity of the month, or our panel of experts, simply email [email protected] with Horse Answers in the subject line, or go online

Can I use a double bridle?

RIDING

Q At what level can you start to ride in a double bridle?

Kathryn, on email

A You can ride in a double bridle as early as Elementary level but

it only becomes a must when competing internationally. Personally, I like to do most of my riding in the snaffle, but it depends on the type of horse. If they’re particularly strong, the double can help to get them to back off.

Q My youngster is stiff on the right rein. What exercises can I do to

make her more supple?Jen, on email

A A little bit of gentle lateral work will help. Try a bit of shoulder

fore and leg-yield, even if it’s only in walk.

You can also work with circles and, as she progresses, you can leg-yield out from a smaller circle to a larger circle.

A bit of counter bending on the left rein could also help.

Maria Eilberg riding Two Sox at the Nationals – a double bridle is compulsory in international competition

RIDING

How can I make my youngster supple?

Leg-yield is a great suppling exercise


Read on

pageBackingSpecial15

Sarah Kreutzer explains natural horsemanship methods

74 Listen & learn

Bryan Smart reveals racehorses’ early days

80 Ready to race

Traditional ways with top rider Jennie Loriston-Clarke

68 Old school training

�


Guide to backing horses»Traditional

Old schooltrainingTraditional training methods are still as relevant today as they have ever been

Following a successful career as an international rider and judge, Jennie Loriston-Clarke set up Catherston Stud. Her traditional methods produce calm and confident horses, ready for a working life.

Using tried and tested techniques that have been passed down

from generation to generation, Jennie proves that the backing process is readily accepted by most horses.

“The most important thing to remember when dealing with young horses is to remain calm,” says Jennie. “If the handler is confident and reassuring, the horse will soon learn to relax around humans.”

Depending on the type of horse, Jennie begins the backing process between the ages of two and three.

“Our TBs will often be backed around the age of two, while our Warmbloods – who as a breed are slower growing and need more time for their bones to strengthen and mature – won’t be backed until they are three year olds,” she says.

Prior to backing, the youngsters are kept at grass. They are handled frequently by the farrier and for routine veterinary treatment, but apart from this they’ve had very little contact with people when they are brought in to be backed. Despite this, it usually takes Jennie just three to four weeks to get each youngster started in their ridden careers, with the exception of the occasional nervous horse who may take a little longer.

Jennie would usually begin working with a youngster in her enclosed purpose-built round pen. There is limited space and fewer distractions, making it easier for her to keep the focus and attention of a young horse. If, however, you’re not lucky enough to have such facilities, Jennie suggests sectioning off a third of

the school using show jumps. When working in a new area,

Jennie always takes the time to show a young horse his new surroundings. She stands on the outside of the track as she leads the horse around the edge of the school, so the horse feels free to move away from anything that makes him nervous.

Setting the scene

Jennie always takes time to show a young horse

his new surroundings

84 Products to help



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Brushing boots are the most commonly used form of leg protection for every day riding activities and exercise – we put nine different brands under scrutiny

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Help me stop Him rusHing into fences� Your problems solved with our one-to-one training sessionsWords Rebecca Gibson

�


The rider and horse

Sharon asks Liz to tell her a bit about Ollie and what she thinks they need to work on.

“Ollie has a fantastic nature for an ex-racehorse,” says Liz. “Although he’s a bit sharp sometimes, he’s pretty much unflappable. However, I feel that while Ollie is coming on in leaps and bounds, I’m a bit rusty. I find it difficult to see my stride as we approach a fence and I’m worried that I’ll end up spoiling Ollie, who’s coming on so well.”

Before they start

� Name Sharon Hunt� experience Sharon is ranked among the top 50 eventers in the world. She currently competes 10 horses at all levels, including the World Equestrian Games, Burghley and Badminton. At the 2008 Olympics Sharon, aboard Tankers Town, was part of the incredibly talented British team that secured a bronze medal.

� Name Liz Hale� experience Liz bought six-year-old Selle Français gelding Ollie last May after his four-year racing career was brought to a premature end. Ollie had never even been ridden in a school before but after lots of hard work the pair have been competing successfully and at their first show jumping competition went double clear over 2ft 3in fences. However, Ollie has a habit of rushing and this is starting to dent Liz’s confidence.

The trainer

Riding Private Lessons

1 Cold weather

2 Toxins in the bloodstream

4 Stressful situations

6 Mares and fillies in season

3 Hard ground

5 Being overweight

7 Drug induced

9 Prolonged weight bearing

8 Inappropriate foot dressing

10 Chemical or plant poisoning

Laminitis explainedLaminitis is a chronically painful condition that damages and weakens the laminae in the horse’s foot.

“If you imagine the pedal bone as a trapeze artist and the 600 or so laminae as the ropes supporting him within the hoof capsule, laminitis attacks these ‘ropes’ causing them to weaken, fray and even snap in extreme cases,” says vet Gil Riley. “As a result the pedal bone can drop (otherwise known as founder) and rotate. Lengthy box rest is essential after an attack, on a deep, soft bed to support the frog and, by association, the pedal bone directly above it. It also takes the pressure off the delicate laminae to enable them to repair.”

10 possible causes of laminitis1 Some horses are abnormally sensitive to the cold – use leg wraps to alleviate the problem2 The presence of toxins in the bloodstream, following an infection, for example, can trigger an attack3 Fast or prolonged work on hard ground can cause trauma to the laminae4 Stress can bring about an attack, and it could be something as simple as an injection that sets it off5 Obesity causes many problems for horses6 A hormonal imbalance can induce laminitis7 Corticosteroids can trigger severe symptoms8 Over-tight foot dressings can cause trauma9 The hindlimbs are particularly sensitive to weight bearing laminitis10 Ingestion of poisons cause bacterial changes that can lead to an attack

�

Laminitisthe inside story

Spring is a danger time for laminitis but with our experts’ help you can prevent this devastating

disease – and cope in the event of an emergencyWords by Helen Milbank

L aminitis is one of the biggest causes of lameness in the UK, and just the word

can strike fear into owners whose horses and ponies have battled the condition. But there are steps you can take to protect your horse from this crippling disease, catch it in its tracks, and implement potentially life-saving first aid in the event of an attack. Our top experts explain how.

Our vet saysWith recurrent laminitics there is always a driving cause – a reason why the horse or pony has this disease – and the most common driver is excessive fat deposits. Fat is far from being an inert cuddly tissue. Rather, it’s a toxic reservoir that produces inflammatory proteins, and these circulate in the body causing havoc. In people, the most dangerous type of fat is around the midriff as the proteins produced here damage the heart and blood vessels – in horses it’s the fat

If laminitis strikes, follow Gil’s five-point plan

�Online helpIf you want to chat to a vet, free of charge, log on to the Your Horse website to see when our vet will next be available for advice

Meet our expertVet Gil Riley co-manages the equine practice of the Pool House Veterinary Group

1 Call your vet, who will administer pain killers (or in

the most acute cases, perform foot nerve blocks) to enable the horse to be moved to a stable. Cotton wool or a soft pad under the frog, held in place with a bandage, can help to support the area until the vet arrives. You’re aiming to get the frog to bear the horse’s weight before the hoof wall, and especially the sole of the foot, has to.

2 Box rest your horse immediately on a shavings

or shavings/sand bed that’s at least 6cm deep. He must be unable to

put his foot anywhere other than on the bed. No matter how fast he responds to treatment, total box rest is vital for at least three to four weeks, possibly more.

3 Use anti-inflammatories for pain relief and a sedative if

necessary to help your horse stay calm during box rest, as directed by your vet.

4 If any sinking of the hoof capsule is suspected, X-rays

will be able to identify the extent of the damage and appropriate supportive measures taken, including perhaps the use of

glue-on supportive shoes.

5 Implement a weight loss diet, but never starve your horse

as this fans the flames of laminitis. Instead feed soaked, low calorie hay and high fibre chaff.

around the crest of the neck that’s the most dangerous, as the inflammatory proteins produced here prime the animal to develop laminitis. However, any fat is capable of this. In other words, a fat horse is predisposed to the condition and less of a trigger factor will be required to tip him into a laminitic state.

These trigger factors include an excessive amount of simple sugars (lush or frosted grass), psychological stress, excessive concussion to the foot or hormonal disease (usually Cushing’s or equine metabolic syndrome – EMS).

The first step in preventing laminitis is managing your horse’s condition. Aim for a condition score of two-and- a-half to three, with zero being emaciated, one being poor, two being the thin side of acceptable – where you can just see the ribs – three being the plump side of acceptable, so you can feel the ribs but not see them, four being fat and five obese.

Next, monitor his diet and control his calorie intake, regularly weigh taping and condition scoring your horse and using photographs to monitor the fat on the crest of

his neck, as a weigh tape doesn’t include this area. Finally, consider the conformation of your horse’s feet and work with a good farrier to keep the hooves in the best possible shape to maintain the pedal bone’s correct position within the hoof capsule.

“Some horses will have to be permanently managed but with the right management and care, the prognosis is good for laminitis-prone animals, and many can enjoy a good quality of life without coming into contact with their laminitis trigger factors. �

In an emergency

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