May 2011, Vol. 21 No. 150 $5.00

Ramen Noodles Front Line in the U.S. Part 4

Latest Report from The Tsukiji Fish MarketToast with Sake at American Homes

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Permit No. 32641

The Magazine for Food Professionals

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JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWSMay Vol. 20, No.138|2||2|

JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS |3|May 2010 Vol. 20, No.138

4 JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

SPECIAL REPORT 6 Ramen Noodles Front Line in the U.S. 8 Dedicated to noodle production, Okada aims to expand his market through detailed analysis 10 Great-tasting soup is the key to success 12 Sanyo Foods releases New products!

SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB 14 Sake Sommelier Club 15 Sake Nation 43 The relationship between Global Warming and sake making 43 16 Toast with Sake at American Homes -Dreaming to see celebrating with Sake instead of Wine at American Homes- 17 The relationship between Japanese sake and umami

NEWS / TRENDS 18 Dashi / The Foundation of Japanese Cuisine 22 Latest Report form The Tsukiji Fish Market 22 Japanese Fish is Safe 33 Lawsuits against Japanese Restaurants by persons with disabilities are on the rise

CASE STUDY 20 Difference between NY and LA: Part3 3

OTHER CULINARY PROFESSIONALS 24 A Modern Fusion Izakaya Sozai 26 At En Japanese Brasserie, diners savor the Japanese spirit that appeals to all five senses and reflects seasonal changes , EnJapaneseBrasserie

JAPANESE FOOD HISTORY 28 Chapter 57 Common sense overturned by new ideas 57

All Japan News, Inc.222 S. Hewitt St. Suite 10

Los Angeles, CA 90012Tel: (213) 680-0011 Fax: (213) 680-0020

E-mail: AllJapanNews@gmail.com

2011 All Japan News Inc. All rights reserved.

Publisher All Japan News Inc

Managing Editor David Kudo

Editor-in-ChiefHiroshi Kawabata

EditorKeiko AzumaErika Jones

DesignerRitsuko Lynch

Contributing WritersAtsushi Ashizawa

Akihiko Endo Noritoshi Kanai

Kosuke Kuji Yuji Matsumoto

Aya OtaElli Sekine

Izumi Sunaoka Akiko Tagawa

Minako Takizawa

Special Thanks toJBA / JETRO /JRA

May 2011, Vol. 21, No. 150

Kizuna the bonds of friendship

Thank you for the Kizuna.

A Friend In Need Is A Friend Indeed.

Kizuna the bonds of friendship

Thank you for the Kizuna.

A Friend In Need Is A Friend Indeed.

6 JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

Noodles are eaten around the world. Made from flour and water, noodles are a relatively simple food item eaten in countless variations and cuisines world-wide. Protein, which is one component of flour (mainly glutenin and gliadin) generates a chemical reaction to produce various flavors and textures for various dishes and cuisines. The texture, a deciding factor for noodles, changes in quality after a subtle process is repeated, so the production of noodles is a compli-cated business where perfection doesnt exist. Despite technological advances in the research, production and evolution of noodles, its an endless journey for those

1300 1500 28,006 (2010 ) 28,747 (2010 ) 34,488 (2009 )

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Noodle ProductionFlour and the types of noodles

Ramen Noodles Front Line in the U.S.

The Ramen Noodles boom gaining momentum worldwide

by Elli Sekine

Part 1

involved. This challenge only enhances the enjoyment of quality noodles. The Japanese may be the largest population of noodle-lovers in the world. Traditionally, Japanese noodles are udon and soba as most people know, and the history of udon dates back to mid-1300s, and back to the 1500s for soba. Currently in Japan, 28,006 udon restaurants and 28,747 soba restaurants are in business (2010). Chinese noodles permeated speedily and widely since after WWII until today due to the recent ramen boom. In Japan, 34,488 ramen shops serve fresh Chinese noodles (2009). Compared to udon and soba eaten only with dashi flavor, Chinese noodles are enjoyed in various styles and flavors with the most important factor being how the noodles entwine with the soup. Therefore, noodle recipes require careful consideration of the assumed texture. Recently, ramen shops that create their own noodles are increasing to offer various styles of noodles for different flavors. Reference: Todo-an / http://todo-ran.com

What are Chinese noodles anyway? The difference between Chinese noodles and the generally renowned pasta is the use of kansui, which generates an alkali chemical reaction that induces the gluten

May 2011 Vol. 21 No.150 7

to harden over time and adds body to the noodles. The distinct aroma that results is considered by many consumers to be the aroma of ramen. Also, the golden color also results from the chemical reaction. Another difference between Chinese noodles and pasta is that pasta is made from durum wheat, while Chinese noodles are generally made from bread flour. While the process to extract the gluten is same for both, Chinese noodles require extra consideration to the kneading and body to create noodles that kneads well. This is done by taking into consideration

Made with Moroheiya

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Medium flour (HalfSoft,halfhard)

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Cake,cookies,tempuramix

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Bread,cake,pies,etc.

the kneading time to link the gluten to grains of flour. The Japanese prefer to have their pasta prepared al dente. Similarly, the body of Chinese noodles are important to Japanese consumers.

Kansui: In Mongolia (Nei Mongol today), a method of noodle production using kansui (alkaline salt water from salt lake) was coincidentally found and later introduced to Japan along with the variety of noodles. The main compo-nent is sodium carbonate for natural kansui, while those sold in the market as food additives today has various alkaline components such as potassium carbon-ates and potassium polyphosphates.

Flour milling in Japan is mainly categorized into the following three types as indicated below, while all-purpose flour is most common in the U.S., seen as modified bread flour by Japanese standards.

8 JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

ProfileTakuro OkadaBorn in 1961. Employed by Myojo, Inc. In 1985. After gaining six years of experience at their factory, Okada was transferred to Myojos Malasian plant in 1991. He briefly returned to Japan in 1994 to undergo training at an affiliate chilled factory, Okada was assigned to Myojo U.S.A., Inc. as factory manager in March 1995, and assumed his current position as president in February 2009. Okada enjoys surfing on his days off.

196185 69194 95 3USA2009 2

CORPORATE DATA MYOJO U.S.A., INC.Founded: April 1991 through a joint venture agreement with JFC Interna-tional, Inc. Shareholders: Nishin Foods Holdings, JFC International, Inc. Number of employees: approximately 40 Business Description: Production of noodles for udon, yakisoba, gyoza skin, and custom orders for restaurants. Sales are handled by JFC International, Inc. throughout the U.S. (Hawaii and Alaska), Mexico, Canada, Europe, etc.

1991 4JFCInternational,Inc. JFCInternational,Inc. 40 JFCInternationalInc

Ramen Noodles Front Line in the U.S.

6220 Prescott Ct., Chino, CA 91710

Tel: (909) 464-1411

Fax: (909) 464-1415

100% Noodle Production Company and a major distribution route offer strong connections to expand the market

Myojo U.S.A., Inc. is a noodle production company formed through a joint venture with JFC International, Inc. Currently, the Chino factory produces mainly udon, yakisoba, ramen noodles and gyoza skin. Before, the name Myojo U.S.A., Inc. was synonymous with instant ramen, but since their joint venture, only fresh noodles are produced. Not limited to noodles for small stores, Myojo U.S.A. also produces customized noodle orders for restaurants. The noodles are distributed by JFC International, Inc., not only throughout the U.S. but also in Canada, South America and Europe. Because noodles are a delicate food product that changes flavors with the passing of time, products are carefully shipped using the latest system that monitors the temperature that suits the characteristics of the noodles during transportation to various regions worldwide. The company is divided into the production division that focuses on local noodle production, and the sales division complete with a global distribution system to deliver high quality noodles in ideal condition; one benefit from being a joint venture that helps to increase sales.

The unexpected ramen boom helped increase sales for the noodle industry

Recent years are known as the ramen boom with ramen specialty shops are rapidly opening in Los Angeles, San Francisco and New York. Before then, when demonstrations for ramen prepara-tions were held in Asian supermarkets, the response wasnt very favorable. Therefore, this recent ramen boom was completely unexpected. Perhaps due to increasingly diverse populations living

100

USA91 JFCInternational,Inc. JFC International, Inc.

Dedicated to noodle production, Okada aims to expand his market through detailed analysis

MYOJO U.S.A., INC.

President Takuro Okada

Text and Photo: Izumi Sunaoka

YakiudonnoodlessoldintheChinesemarketstartingMarch.Futureplansincludetheintroductionofnoodleproductsforseafoodtonkotsu

ramenandtsukemen(dippingnoodles)inJapan.

in the U.S., the public is more open to diverse ethnic cuisines, and rapid changes are witnessed. Perhaps due to the ramen boom, our company was not affected by the Lehmans fall. Between 2008 ~ 2009, orders for small shops and restaurants actually increased. Many sushi restau-rants are now incorporating ramen into their menus as a reasonably-priced menu selection. Because noodles are tradition-ally a local food, they satisfy the changing public demand from outdoor to indoor dining, and from fine dining to local foods. Also, we havent been affected by the rising yen despite some food ingre-dients still imported from Japan because we produce locally here in the U.S. In fact, the trend Im seeing is to further localize products.

To meet the true demands of customers, detailed analysis is conducted to expand our market

In part due to changing times, our current sales are good. We are witnessing notable sales increases in Chinese American and Korean American markets. However, sales figures alone arent adequate indicators of the latest market trends. For example, our sales figures indicated yakisoba sales is good in Korean American market. However, our store demonstrations revealed that Chinese American consumers shopping at Korean markets were responsible for this sales increase. On the other hand, we found that Korean American consumers dislike the unique aroma of

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May 2011 Vol. 21 No.150 9

stir-fried yakisoba. This is our next task, for addressing this challenge will likely improve sales in the Korean American markets. Therefore, we strive to meet true consumer demands through detailed market analysis, for our goal is to satisfy the demands of our consumers from various ethnic backgrounds in addition to profiting as a corporation. This is a difficult task, but Im sure thats where this industry has potential to grow at the same time. Im sure the demand for ramen will continue in both small retail stores and

restaurants. Fresh noodles will probably be received well by American consumers who value convenience if theyre packaged in cups rather than in bags. I think it wont be long before American consumers will welcome various fresh noodles used by specialty ramen shops and noodle products with health-promoting claims. The noodles appeal to a wide consumer base because theyre simple, convenient, safe and tastiness. Because everyone feels happy when they taste great food, we strive to continue producing consumer-friendly noodles.

The most professional and reliablenoodles company for you.

CUSTOM MADE NOODLES AVAILABLESOUP BASE FOR RAMEN NOODLESDont you want to serve Ramen at your restaurant?! I wish I couldbut what aboutnoodles, soup base, topping, costetc??? Dont worry, leave it to us! MYOJO U.S.A., INCthe Ramen professionals and JFC INTERNATIONAL INC the nest Japanese foodspecialists will provide you with all the informaPon, so you can start Ramen rightaway and get 100S saPsfacPon from your customers.

Tlease feel free to contact us any UuesPon.

Myojo U.S.A., Inc.6XX0 TrescoY Ct. Chino, CA 91[10(909) 464-1411

2008 2009

Noodleproductsmadewithemphasisonlocalproduction.JFChandlesthesalesanddistributiontovariousregions.JFC

AlineupofthemostpopularfoodproductsbyMyojo,Inc.

10 JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

by Atsushi AshizawaRamen Noodles Front Line in the U.S.

Great-tasting soup is the key to success

Part 4Atsushi AshizawaRestaurant Consultant Contributed to the opening of the first ramen shop in the U.S. in Los Angeles in 1970.Since then, hes helped open restaurants nationwide. Participated as a director in Chiba Lotte Marines Spring Camp 1995. Held the first training session for Japanese cuisine in Russia at Saint Petersburg in 2003. Awarded a certificate from the city of Saint Petersburg.

Following noodle production, attention is due to the menu, taste, and pricing. Taste is the key element that affects business. The flavor of the soup is the most important part of the ramen. To say the flavor of the soup will determine whether or not the business will be successful is not an overstatement. In order to have 100 servings of soup ready in time for the 11:00AM lunch hour, soup preparation has to start at 8:00AM. To prepare great-tasting ramen at a reasonable price, time and effort must be invested. Next, we review the menu: the flavors consist mainly of shoyu, tonkotsu,

trials-and-errors produced the successes enjoyed today. At this one particular restaurant, I never see Japanese customers. Where did their success come from? I believe the secret is in their menu. For customers who arent full after one bowl of ramen, half servings of fried rice, California rolls, inari sushi, gyoza, small rice bowls and half portions of curried rice are offered as combinations. This restaurants customers are 100% regulars. The next concern is pricing. Here in California, it is said that the hourly wage is used as a guide to estimate the amount of money people spend on lunch.

If the hourly wage is $8.00, then current ramen priced at $8.00 a bowl is reason-able. However, comparing with general Japanese restaurants, the quality of service suffers because the order arrives too soon after the customer is seated and the order is placed. Another concern is the lack of need to explain the menu to customers. This is my personal suggestion, but since produce like cabbage is affordable in California, serving pickled cabbage to customers for example while they wait for their ramen may be appreciated. Small gestures of appreciation may go a long way to improve sales for ramen shops.

miso, shio, and other original flavors. Due to improved technology used by food manufacturers of ramen-related products, store-bought products dont differ much in taste from ramen served in restau-rants, which begs the question: where is the benefit of taking the time and effort to serve homemade ramen? The answer lies in cut costs and origi-nality that comes from serving your own recipe of ramen, which means restau-rant owners gain confidence in knowing that other restaurants cannot recreate the same flavors. So whats the difference between ramen shops in Japan vs. overseas? In Japan, ramen shops that dont taste good are guaranteed to fail 100%. How about overseas? Here in Southern California, what is the difference between the ramen shops we Japanese and Japanese Americans find good vs. the restaurants with long lines where customers wait thirty minutes to an hour long? Ive been observing carefully since these restaurants opened, and they didnt start off with menus that suit local palates. A long time spent on research and

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12 JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

Text & Photo: Keiko Azuma

February 28th 2011 on Monday 11:a.m. Sanyo Foods Corporation of America announced via press release their improved products at the Yorba Linda Country Club. Sanyo Foods Corporation of America, based in Garden Grove, CA (President: Junichiro Ida), plans to release the new products on the west coast of the United States on Thursday, April 28th (Depending on the area, it is subject to change). The new products with the orig-inal long time seller Sapporo Ichiban series were released. Sanyo Foods Co LTD. President Junichiro Ida, Managing Director General Manager Marketing Div & Public relations & Avdertising Div. Toshiya Sugimura, Senior managing Director in Charge of Oversea Business Ryo Yoshizawa, and Senior Sales Manager Sanyo Foods Corp. of America Nobutaka Taira were present. Sanyo Foods of America has been established since 1978 and carries the product Sapporo Ichiban Instant noodle. This product is widely known and consumed in American diets. It is not difficult to say Sapporo Ichiban has supported many peoples daily diets. Three newer products and packaging had been introduced at the press release. First of all, Sapporo Ichiban Hot & Spicy Chicken Noodles. This product is

based on the Sapporo Ichiban Chicken Noodle flavor. Tomato and chili f lavor have been added. This gives a great combi-nation of the spiciness with Umami from the chicken noodle. This product becomes one of the newer faces of the Sapporo Ichiban series. The vivid and fresh tone of this package is outstanding using the color of a lime green base and red color illustrated chilis as great contrast which reminds you of its spiciness. It stimulates your appetite. Because it is based on the Chicken Noodle, you will taste a richness of flavor with a good balance of spice. The reason why spicy or Salsa flavor are not written on the package is so to not prejudice before tasting. Secondly, Sapporo Ichiban Shio Ramen (Salt Flavor) can be eaten in the U.S. This product has been sold in Japan since 1971 which is the 40th anni-versary of this longtime seller. Finally it will launch in the U.S. which many consumers have been waiting for. Soy and miso flavors have been eaten in the US already however, this Shio (Salt Flavor) had not been sold in the states before. The research, development and product improvements have been made to get the products as close to the flavor sold in Japan. Especially crushed black sesame in the separated small aluminum foil package as a condiment comes

Sanyo Foods releases New products!

GardenGrove,CA 235

Ramen Front Line in the U.S.

May 2011 Vol. 21 No.150 13

within the package. Depending on the preference, it can be on the noodle soup or not. This attachment is very unique which originated from Japan. Shio flavor lovers especially like the condiments. Aluminum foil is used because of the longer shelf life and quality control. The package image is also in keeping as close to the original in Japan except written in English and adding no trans-fat is used. Thirdly, Sanyo Foods of Ameri-cas main products have three types of flavor: Original, Miso and Shio (Salt), Three Sapporo Ichiban instant noodle series can be sold as in a convenient five pack. Instant noodles are sold in the U.S. by the case, however many consumers do not want a whole case. In Japan, where the instant noodles originated, they are primarily sold in packs of five. Currently all the products for the

American market are produced at the Sanyo Foods of America plant in Garden Grove. One line produces 140,000 (120,000 case x 12) packages of instant noodles daily and 144,000 (600 case x 24) cup noodles daily. It distributes to Northern America, Pan Pacific Islands and Canada. Sanyo Foods Corp. is consid-ering building a different facility in other locations as sales grow. There were many other ideas for the newer flavors when they started to develop the idea of releasing the new item. Comparisons and the deep analyzation of consumer demand led the company to select the Hot and Spicy. Most of the ingredients used in Sapporo Ichiban Series in America originate in the U.S., however, it takes about 3 years to get the products aligned to the products in Japan. Interestingly the flavor preferences and best sold items vary depending on the locations. However Sapporo Ichiban

4,000 6,000 2,000 6,000 Hot&spicy

Fromleft:RyoYoshizawa,SeniorManagingDirectorinchargeofOverseasBusiness/ToshiyaSugiura,ManagingdirectorGeneralManagerMarketingDiv&publicrelations&AdvertisingDiv./JunichiroIda,President/KenUeda,Jr.MarketingDirectorinChargeofOverseaBusiness/RyotaMorikawa,FacilityChiefofSanyofoodsCorp.OfAmerica/NobutakaTaira,SeniorSalesManager

Company Profile

1953 Noodle Production site was established in Maebashi city in Japan Starting the operation as dried noodle production maker as of the expansion of Sake retailer. This is the first step of Sanyo Foods Corporation.1966 Sapporo Ichiban Soy Flavor has released in the market1978 Sanyo Foods of America has been established Head quarter Tokyo Minato-ku Akasaka 3-5-2 Sanyo Building 7th floor Main Office Gunma- prefecture maebashi-city Asakura-cho 555-4 Business Area: Instant Noodles, Dried noodle productions and sales

is the one of the best well-known foods products in the world. And also Sapporo Ichiban is the first leading product to help prevailing Japanese Ramen noodle soup in the world.

14 JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB

20

While several Japanese sake tasting events are held annually in recent years, there are about twenty professional sake sommeliers in the U.S., and consumer knowledge about Japanese sake is gradually increasing. The goal of this report is to contribute to expanding the U.S. market by providing information about Japanese sake to professionals affiliated with the sake industry, sommeliers and Japanese restaurant industry professionals (approximately 80% of the owners are Asian). We introduce the pairing of Daiginjo, Ginjo, Junmai, Honjozo sake with seasonal dishes specifically enjoyed in spring, summer, fall and winter. We cover the deep flavors of Japanese sake, their compatibility with various dishes, and over ten various flavors of sake enjoyed from hot to cold, depending on the temperature range. This column from the Sake Sommelier Club was made possible due to our sponsors listed above.

Kosuke KujiNanbu Bijin Inc. Fifth Generation Brewery Owner

Hiroyuki Enomoto Honorary Sake Sommelier

President, JFC International

Noritoshi Kanai Honorary Sake Sommelier

President, Mutual Trading Company Inc.

David Kudo Honorary Sake Sommelier.

President, All Japan News

Michael John Simkin MJS Sake Selection Owner

Yuji Matsumoto Master Sake Sommelier

Kabuki Restaurant, Beverage Manager

Toshio Ueno Master Sake Sommelier

Vice President,Sake School of America

Joe Mizuno Head of the

Regional Sake Tasting Club

Chizuko Niikawa-Helton Sake Sommelier

Rick Smith & Hiroko Furukawa

Honorary Sake Sommelier. Owner SAKAYA NYC,

Keita Akaboshi Manager & Sommelier,

Sake Bar Kirakuya

Toshiyuki Koizumi Sake Sommelier, Owner WASAN

Yoshihide MurakamiManager,

Smart Assist LLC

Kats Miyazato Sake Specialist

Owner of M&M Enterprise

Tomohiko Matsukuma President C.O.O.

Silkroad Wine & Spirits

Yoshihiro Sako Sake Sommelier, Sake &

Wine shop Corkage

Koji Aoto Sake Sommelier,

Savannah Distributing Co.Inc.

May 2011 Vol. 21 No.150 15

Kosuke KujiFifth Generation Brewery Owner / Nanbu Bijin, Inc.

Born May 11, 1972. Entered Tokyo University of Agricul-tures Department of Brewing and Fermentation. In 2005 became the youngest person ever to receive the Iwate Pre-fecture Young Distinguished Technician Award. In 2006 was selected to be a member of the board of trustees of his local alma mater, Fukuoka High School. Currently is fea-tured in a number of media outlets including magazines, radio, and television. *Positions of Public Service: Chairperson, Cassiopeia Corporation Youth Conference; School Board Member, Fukuoka High School, Iwate Prefecture, Vice-Chairman, Technology Committee, Iwate Prefecture Brewers and Dis-tillers Association

The relationship between Global Warming and sake making

SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB

SAKE NATIONby Kosuke Kuji

43

To prevent Global Warming in Japan, businessmen set the air conditioner to 82.4F during the summer and wear no neckties, a style of cool biz practiced by government employees of the national diet, ministries, prefectural governments and various agencies during the summer. During winter, the heater is set at 68F and employees practice warm biz by using throws and wearing warm clothes. These practices are becoming widespread in Japan to limit the emission of CO2, the principal cause of global warming. Global Warming was addressed at the G8 Hokkaido Toyako Summit, and its impacting the production of sake. First, the principle ingredient for making sake is sake rice, of which the Yamadanishiki brand from Hyogo prefecture is said to be the highest quality. In recent years, the produc-tion of Yamadanishiki is reported to be affected by high temperatures. Especially during sake production in winter 2007, Yamadanishiki was notably hardened and insoluble, a rare occurrence caused by high temperatures. Sake breweries that use Yamadanishiki for their sake were

affected nationwide, especially brands usually entered for sake awards. This year, sake production also suffered due to high temperatures. Although to a lesser degree compared to 2007, Yamadanishiki again suffered damages due to high temperatures. Many sake brands were light in flavor, with this years National New Sake Awards won by sake made from sake rice other than Yamadanishiki both in and outside of Yamadanishikis division. The probability of winning the gold award was overturned for the first time, with divisions of sake made from sake rice other than Yamadanishiki having an advantage over those made from Yamadanishiki. Global Warming is affecting sake production overall. In Iwate prefecture where I live, temperatures for the prepa-ration of sake rice is controlled using outdoor air temperature to cool the steaming rice. Recently, ice is thrown into some of the water used to prepare sake rice for a longer period of time. Before, ice was never used towards the end of November, but recently, ice is used at times until December. As for the production of sake rice

2820 CO22007

however, Yamadanishiki produced in southern Japan is affected by high temperatures. On the other hand, in Iwate prefecture where cold temperature was always concern, recently produced sake rice is of the highest quality due to high summer temperatures. Last year, our sake rice Ginotome that were contracted to produce in Ninohe City produced half of the brands of sake awarded the Top Prize above First Prize. Because sake production is deeply affected by Global Warming, Id like to be eco-conscious in my lifestyle.

200711121

16 JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB

Sake Importer Smart Assist LLC, Boutique Sake has various high quality sake. Mr. Murakami is actively involving to events to promote their high quality sake in United States to conduct what the real great sake is. I interviewed him what he stands in Sake industry in America now and how he hopes Sake industry as a whole.

What made you start a Sake Import Business? A current President of a sake exporter from Japan approached Mr. Murakami and asked if he was interested in doing business as a sake importer when he was working with event organizers in Los Angeles. This was the one of the turning points for him to step into the sake import business. There had been a Japanese Sake boom about 20 years ago in Japan, it was trendy to drink various kinds of Japanese sake. However, there were many incidents that he hadnt felt good the next day after drinking Japanese Sake. So he hadnt had good feelings about Japanese Sake. Since the Japanese Sake boom, he had moved away from Japanese Sake and had been drinking more wines. However once he has started working in the Sake Industry, he was drawn into a fascination for Japanese sake and started to learn what the Sake all about. It has been very useful for him to understand about the Japanese Sake because he has been drinking wine which has many characteristics that are similar to Japanese Sake. Now he wants to share his fascination for Japanese Sake.

What are the effective marketing tools to achieve the goals? The most important thing is to earn trust and to give ideas. Non-Japanese foods and Japanese sake pairing events have taken place 5 times at Non-Japanese Restaurants. He wants to spread the word and promote the idea of Japanese Sake being matched and balanced with non-Japanese food items. These non-Japanese foods are Hawaiian, Thai,

20

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Toast with Sake at American Homes -Dreaming to see celebrating with Sake instead of Wine at American Homes-- -

Text / Photo by Keiko Azuma

Smart Assist, LLC 4455 Sheila Street. Suite A, Commerce, CA 90023 323-604-0773 http://www.smart-assist.com/usa/

ProfileYoshi Murakami 1999Worked for Law Firm in Japan. 1999 moved to the U.S. Worked and an Event OrganizerRestaurant Manager. Sake Importer. He has been actively involved in the Occupational Exchange Program between Japan and America as

a marketing associate. Privately, he belongs to the Acting Company called Arigato kai and acts on stage speaking Japanese.

eager to find out the greatness of German wine. However they just could not read the Labels. So the German wine boom has declined. To be able to see through consumers eyes is the key to survive the US market such as pursuing Japanese Sake Label standardization to catch up with the market needs. What is his goal personally?There is the perception that Japanese sake can be matched only with Japanese Food, he wants to approach in non-traditional

ways to match the Western Foods such as Hamburger and cheese and Pizza etc. The Japanese Sake is profound. He is hoping to see Americans celebrate holidays and special occasions with Japanese Sake as it is with wine. However, usually American people cannot drink high quality Japanese Sake with Sushi at home. He would be happy to see even a little bit of change of American Diets, and he wants to be active to reach beyond the idea of Japanese Sake = Japanese foods.

French cuisines. Each event about 20-40 people had participated. It is very inter-esting to see that Steaks and Foie gras can be matched with Japanese sake. Mr. Murakami believes that having these kinds of sake pairing events at the restau-rants that do not carry Japanese Sake on their menus can lead to expanding the market of Japanese Sake. Moreover the restaurant sides can establish the strong bonds to their guests and the their valued guests can be able to enjoy newer items. Often times the pairing event partici-pants request the Sake at the post-event and then the restaurants start carrying it on their drink menu. This kind of grass-roots movement to spread the greatness of Japanese Sake can educate Americans what the real Japanese sake all about.

How many selected types of Japanese Sake do you carry? Regularly he has 20 kinds of Sake. The ways he selects what types of sake to import is first of all the taste has to be great. The sake exporters in Japan and the Sake breweries have many discussions in order to keep the quality of the products and policies and pick the products not to select similar f lavor of Sake. He tries to avoid similar sakes. So he has the variety of f lavor of sake for customers to choose from.

What is his perspective of the prevailing Japanese Sake Market in US? The pronunciation of the Japanese Sake is very hard for Americans who do not have any clue of Japanese language or is difficult to remember them. However they certainly have high interests in Japanese Sake. This fact really affects purchasing intentions for them. It is very sad to see that there is a huge potential market out there. We would miss this great chance when it has been a Japanese Sake boom if we dont take action for it now. There is a sad example: There was German wine boom several years ago in the US market. The wine drinkers were

May 2011 Vol. 21 No.150 17

Yuji MatsumotoMaster Sake Sommelier

Finalist of the 2nd World Sake Sommelier Competition. Graduated from Keio University Fac-ulty of Law, Department of Political Science. Worked for Nomura Securities for 10 years. Former president of California Sushi Academy Former chief of planning dept. at Mutual Trading. Currently working for Kabuki Restaurant Corp. as a Beverage Manager of Sake.

SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB

SAKE SOMMELIERby Yuji Matsumoto

Id like to start by offering my condo-lences to all affected by the recent Tohoku Kanto Earthquake Disaster in Japan.

In my last issue, I wrote about how depending on whether or not culinary the term umami is recognized as a taste due to culinary differences, the taste exists but the term doesnt always exist in some countries. This time, Id like to discuss how Japanese sake is relevant to umami. Elements that constitute the Umami taste are mainly from food groups high in protein and nucleic acids, the most representative and famous examples are a form of glutamic acid found in amino acids from kombu, or inosinic acid from dried bonito. Also, other examples include guanylic acid from dried shiitake mushrooms and succinic acid from shellfish. Past experience dictates that combining these elements will deepen or generate a synergistic effect of the umami taste.

The Umami flavors found in Japanese sake consists of glutamic acid,

a type of amino acid. Also, kimoto sake contains many organic acids like succinic and lactic acids. Others included are arginine acid and tyrosine acid.

When pairing Japanese cuisine with sake, Junmaishu containing an abundance of glutamic acid goes well with foods containing inosinic acid, especially with amino acids found in fish. Also, succinic acid found abundantly in kimoto sake and lactic acid goes great with meats (such as chicken, beef and pork) and dairy products. Daiginjo sake contains malic acid in addition to the umami elements, so they are best paired with white fish and shellfish served with lemon, yuzu, and other citric juices.

In Japanese cuisine, Japanese sake is used as a hidden ingredient to enhance the umami flavors, soften animal protein, enhance the flavors of the food and to eliminate the odor of meats. Of course Junmai sake high in amino acid (no point in using gingo for cooking and it would be a waste) or cooking sake is recom-mended for cooking to best compliment and enhance the flavors of the food.

The relationship between Japanese sake and umami

NEWS/TREND

May 2011 Vol. 21 No.150 19

720ML 300ML

Using only the premium Californian rice, Hakutsuru

Organic Junmai Sake is carefully brewed with

sophisticated skills and techniques.

Ingredients, brewing process, aging process, and

bottling process are all USDA certified organic.

Sharp and exhilarating. Dry and light-bodied.

Enjoy this Sake in a wide range from cold to warm/hot,

and sweet/dry changes can be enjoyed depending

on the temperature.

ALC.14.5% BY VOL.

INGREDIENTS:ORGANIC RICE, RICE KOJI

SAKE METER VALUE : 5

22 JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

NEWS/TREND Text & Photo: Yoshihiro Momose

As of March 17th, 6:00am, the recent events of from the Northeastern area of Japan do not seem to have much of an impact on the availability of fish at The Tsukiji Fish Market.

The Effects of Radiation Minimal, If Any: The activity at The Tsukiji Market seems to be at normal; this is mostly due to inquiries, questions, and orders from the overseas market. Most of the questions are regarding the extent of radiation effects on fish. The Tsukiji Market officials have assured all that there are no effects of radiation on fish, but the variety of fish has been impacted. Boats are staying away from the nuclear site, which has limited some fish avail-able at The Market. On the domestic side, as always, customs and the FDA will be doing a full inspection of fish entering into the United State. According to expert analysis and reports, fish do not seem to be affected mostly because currents on the eastern and western side of Japan flow south to north; eventually circulating and dispersing toward the middle of the Pacific Ocean (Refer to Diagram #1). Furthermore, global wind patterns flow west to east, hence, moving and dispersing any potentially hazardous nuclear fallout towards the middle of the Pacific Ocean(Refer to Diagram #2). Due to the circulating pattern of wind and currents, the contamination should be absorbed and dispersed with the vast body of the Pacific Ocean. Most of the fish imported to the United States as well as all Japan fish that International Marine Products, Inc. imports are from the Southern and

Latest Report from The Tsukiji Fish Market

317 6

the Western side of Japan, which virtu-ally has neither residual effects from the earthquake nor any nuclear fallout (Refer to Diagram #3).

Market Price and Currency Fluctuation: The Auction at Tsukiji market today (March 17th) seems somewhat normal (The Market was closed yesterday due to a national holiday). Prices remained stable in spite of the recent occurrences. This is largely due to the larger purchasing entities such as Luxury Hotels, who did not participate in the auction due to the sudden downturn of business. Prices are expected to rise once these purchasing entities return to bidding, and as the Japanese Yen continues to grow stronger. Prices are expected to rise and availability of fish will be somewhat limited once things settle down.

Economic and Societal Effects: The lack of participation in the auctions by these large hotels is largely due to the mass exodus of tourists in fear of fallout, aftershocks, and overall fear in lack of food rations, supply of gas, and other basic necessities. These events have had, above all, an economic impact; restaurants are closed, vacancy rates are high, and the streets have an eerie sense of emptiness.

In Conclusion: In short, business is moving forward, fish is available, and radiation has had a limited impact on fish. Things do seem on the quieter side, which worry some people. Things will return to normal once things around the nation settle down,

but until then, we hope the best for all victims and their families in Japan.

***This report has been compiled By Yoshi-hiro Momose, International Marines Marketing Manager, who has been sent by the company to investigate and research the current state of fish in Japan and its global economic and biological impacts.***

10

Today, news broadcast from Japan reported the disposal of 100,000 tons of frozen tuna into the ocean from many commercial freezers in Sendai. This step was taken because of decomposition of recently harvested fish from six months to a year ago because of the power of the cold storage warehouse cut off by the recent earth-quake. Because the fish carcass is reduced to fragments prior to their release, the disposal does not violate any laws of the sea. Japanese locals in afflicted areas are not eating fish from Sanriku, Miyagi prefecture today, let alone high-end restau-rants in the U.S. that regularly imported fish from the Tsukiji Market in Japan, because there are currently no fishing boats or fishermen out in the ocean. I hear that American sushi-lovers are refraining from enjoying fish in fear of contamination. While such concerns are understandable, mistaken notions of this degree are both

egregious and unusual. Japanese restaurant professionals and especially chefs and servers who speak directly to customers must thoroughly explain this to our customers that the fish currently served in the U.S. are frozen fish transported prior to the earthquake disaster, so there is nothing to be worried about. Were grateful for all the donations made to Japan to help support in the wake of the recent earthquake disaster. What we want to communicate to our American readers is that Japan is going through a difficult national crisis, and this is not the time to stop enjoying sake. Because sake sales have taken a hit due to the recent earthquake, in order to prevent such catastrophes in the future, we are most grateful if our American diners will support Japan by continuing to enjoy our brands of sake. Thank you very much and we look forward to your continued support!

by David KudoJapanese Fish is Safe

May 2011 Vol. 21 No.150 23

Difference between NY and LA : Part 3 3

CASE STUDY Akihiko EndoRestaurant Management Consultant

TM International, LLC.

Born in Yokohama in 1955. BA from Waseda University in 1979; MBA from Golden Gate University in 1985. Moved to the US in 1980.

After completing his MBA, worked at Golden Bell Communicationsand Ernst & Whinney in San Francisco. From 1988, has worked as an

executive at WDI International, Inc. in Los Angeles.

CASETUDYS

LANY19 NY IlMulino

NY

2000 Dr.Salk 2 NYNY

NewYorkTimes Dr.Salk2 NYLA

INTERNATIONAL MARINE PRODUCTS, INC.

A F U L L S E RV I C E P R O V I D E R O F F O O D P R O D U C T S F R O M T H E W O R L D

LOS ANGELES500 East. 7th StreetLos Angeles, CA 90014tel: (213) 893-6123fax: (213) 680-0317email: info@intmarine.com

LAS VEGAS1741 South Mojave RoadLas Vegas, NV 89104tel: (702) 431-8896fax: (702) 431-8897email: infonv@intmarine.com

PHOENIX3801 East Roeser Road, Suite 10Phoenix, AZ 85040tel: (602) 470-9881fax: (602) 470-9957email: info@intmarine.com

SAN FRANCISCO1650 Delta CourtHayward, CA 94544tel: (510) 429-4600fax: (510) 429-4601email: info@impfoods.com

SALT LAKE CITY2655 South 1030 West, Unit ASalt Lake City, UT 84111tel: (801) 908-5953fax: (801) 908-0294email: info@impfoods.com

JAPAN3F- Chuoreito Toyomi No. 3 Reizoko Offi ce Bldg.8-19 Toyomi-cho, Chuo-kuTokyo, Japan 104-0055

Comprehensive Consulting Quality Management Innovative Menu Creation

Both restaurants mentioned above were packed with customers upon opening. However, inexperienced workers couldnt provide a satisfying level of food and service to satisfy their patrons. On the other hand, east cost restaurants are more compact in nature, while Los Angeles diners tend to dislike being confined in small places with other customers. In other words, New York diners dont mind dining in restaurants

with smaller space as much. For example, in Il Mulino, an Italian restaurant in New York listed number 1 in the New York version of Zaggat for 19 consecu-tive years; the interior space is so limited that diners rub elbows with others sitting at the next table. Still, guests continue to flock the restaurant. Perhaps, this could be my personal bias, but western restau-rants opening in the east seem to be greeted more warmly by others.

Although Im not sure if this example is the most appropriate, but Spaggo never opened in New York, nor have they even tried to. They opened in Chicago in the past, but ultimately pulled out. I asked Spaggos partner Dr. Salk about this when I once traveled with him in 2000. New York commentators are all waiting for Spaggo to open there, but Spaggos concept is originally for Hollywood, so I dont think its suitable for New York

he said, laughing. I understood what Dr. Salk meant as restaurant commentators for the New York Times can be harsh in their critiques. However, I remember being particularly impressed with a state-ment he made in the beginning. The top cities in the U.S., New York and Los Angeles are two very different nations for the restaurant industry.

24 JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

San FranciscoIzakaya Sozai

Text/Photo: Elli Sekine

1500 Irving St. (between 16th Ave & 17th Ave) San Francisco, CA 94122 Neighborhood: Inner Sunset(415) 742-5122 www.sozaisf.com/Hours: Wed-Thu, Sun 5:30 pm - 10 pm Fri-Sat 5:30 pm - 11 pm

IzakayaSozai ,BlowFishBlowfishWestHollywood 250 foodcost, laborcostmangement,menuplanningHayamaCaliforniaSushiAcademy

IzakayaTunatartar8.50Spaicytunaoncrispyrice]8.50Hamachi carpaccio$12Ankimo

A modern fusion of Japanese and western flavors is introduced as Japanese tapas by Ritsu Osuka, Owner and Chef of Izakaya Sozai, is creating a buzz in San Francisco. The secret to their success is the high level of satisfaction customers enjoy in taste, volume, and price. Their unique menu offers a variety of selections with a twist of American flavors. Diners customarily order their signature Tonkotsu Ramen as a conclu-sion of their meals. Customers consist mainly of local repeat diners with long lines forming on weekends. Ritsu is from the Bay area where he worked for a long time for Blow Fish, a prime example of how Japanese restau-rants should be operated. Afterwards, he became Head Chef for Blow Fish in West Hollywood, a large restaurant with the capacity to seat 250 diners. The restaurant business in Los Angeles and San Francisco is said to differ greatly due to cultural differences. Ritsu mastered the basics of restaurant management such as food cost, labor cost management, marketing and menu planning. Later, he prepared Japanese specialty dishes as instructor and omakase chef under Toshimitsu Sugiura, Owner of Hayama in West Los Angeles and President of California Sushi Academy. After seven years in Los Angeles, Ritsu returned to the bay area as an entre-preneur. He took over management of

Sozai because of familiarity with the restaurant scale, customer base, and the stance to maximize the flavors of each food ingredient. However, the concept he proposed was entirely different. Ritsus idea of a restaurant wasnt based on tradi-tions, but his desire to prepare creative Japanese-style tapas that appeal not only to locals, but all customers. As he intended, the menu offering a variety of different cultural flavors was a hit with a wide range of customers since the restaurant opened. Izakaya is a place to enjoy small plates of dishes with sake. Customers cant be satisfied without a variety of menu selections, said Ritsu, as he offers an original style of Izakaya not found elsewhere in Japan or the U.S. Ritsus menu selections are innova-tive and unique. American elements in his tapas are characterized with rich flavors, spiciness, crispy textures, the use of western food ingredients and presen-tation. On the other hand, nimono, fried foods, sashimi, salad, ramen and other selections are also available to satisfy all types of customers. The Tuna Tartar ($8.50) is an appetizer with guacamole and wasabi on top of corn chips, recom-mended with beer. Another tuna appetizer is Spicy Tuna on Crispy Rice ($8.50), presented so elegantly and suitable to a fine dining restaurant. The crispy rice is made from fried sushi rice popular in Hollywood paired with tuna, a popular

OTHER CULINARY PROFESSIONALS

A Modern Fusion Izakaya Sozai

May 2011 Vol. 21 No.150 25

1. Average Price for Lunch/Dinner per Person /

$30 (dinner 0nly)

2. Daily Sales / N/A

3. Food Cost Percentage (%)

25.6 %

4. Alcoholic Beverage Sales Percentage (%)

16 %

5. Alcoholic Beverage Sales by Type ( )

Japanese sake, beer, shochu

6. Target Customer / Local, wide age range and ethnicities

7. Featured Menu / Various styles of modern fusion

8. Food Supplier / True world,Nishimoto, JFC

9. Number of Staff / 7

10. Number of Seats / 35 seats

11. Opening Date /February, 2010

12. Varieties of Sake in Store

Otokoyama, Kikusui, MasumiTypes of Japanese sake offered and

sales

8 RitsuTonkotsuramen($8)2

item due to its combination of creamy and crispy textures. The sashimi menu offers Hamachi Carpaccio ($12.00) served with miso vinaigrette and jalapenos, enjoyed American style instead of with soy sauce typically served with sashimi. Ankimo Pate is ankimo served with soy sauce and balsamic vinegar, served with fruits and baguette. The quantity of sauce laced onto the plate can be adjusted, and the presentation is chic. Also, the scallop sauted with squid ink with cheese served in doria style is a voluminous special menu selection with a punch of flavors, enjoyed best with dry sake. Also, classic Izakaya favorites like braised pork belly, karaage, yakitori, and robata is also served, a wide variety in flavors and texture that goes well with sake. The conclusion of the meal is a treat, with 80% of the customers ordering the Ritsu Tonkotsu Rame ($8.00) to conclude their meal. Due to his desire to serve his own preferred style of ramen, Ritsu has an original recipe after years of trial-and-error.

When I asked, Do many of your customers come just to try your ramen?, Ritsu replied, There are more than I expected, but thats fine with me. If there were less orders, then customers wouldnt stay as long as they do. On the other hand, some customers order a lot of selections, and I am happy to accomodate all dining styles. Their popularity is growing partly due to their ramen recently listed in a local magazine as one of the 100 foods to try before you die. Looking at their unique menu selections, Im apparently not the only one who feels the urge to frequent the restaurant to try each of their menu selections. When asked about his future goals, he replied, Im busy keeping the business operating. Ritsu is also a certified sake sommelier and very knowledgable about sake. His culinary creativity is inspired by other renowned chefs at top restau-rants. Japanese tapas served by Izakaya Sozai may start the second izakaya craze!

OCEAN GROUP, INC. Growing Together For over 25 years, Ocean Group, Inc. has been providing quality seafood and great service to Southen California restaurants.

1100 S. Santa Fe Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90021www.oceanfreshinc.com Email: info@oceanfreshinc.comTEL: (213) 622-3677 FAX: (213) 622-3437

1983

26 JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

En Japanese Brasserie

At En Japanese Brasserie, diners savor the Japanese spirit that appeals to all five senses and reflects seasonal changes

OTHER CULINARY PROFESSIONALS

EnJapaneseBrasserie 2004 Pasta-100Recipesfrom100CelebratedChefsPudding -Rec ipes from over 70ce lebra ted ChefsPhotoAlanBattman

2 610 210 65902 35

En Japanese Brasserie is a tradi-tional Japanese restaurant located in a quiet corner of West Village. The restaurant was opened in New York in 2004 by BYO Co., Ltd., a Japanese company that started the Japanese dining chain En, the Kyoto-style udon and chazuke specialty restaurant Obanzai, and sweets. Stepping into the restaurant, the interior is furnished with railing and confectionary molds in traditional Japanese style that is well balanced with the modern furniture, offering an illusion as if the passing of time is somehow slowed in this restaurant. The main dining area is spacious with a high ceiling, and diners can sit in the open kitchen as well. A bar counter and the lounge is located near the entrance while private rooms reminiscent of the Meiji or Taisho era located towards the back, where diners can enjoy various scenes. Executive chef Hiroki Abe selects seasonal ingredients to prepare various delicately flavored dishes that appeal to all five senses. Not only are Abes dishes introduced in a cookbook that features culinary creations of chefs representing New York City: Pasta-100 Recipes from 100 Celebrated Chefs and Pudding- Recipes from over 70 celebrated Chefs (Photo: Alan Battman), Abe created a buzz when he surpassed local renown chefs as the chef featured on both covers. Growing up in a family operating a sushi restaurant, Abe initially rebelled against the family business but naturally entered the food business. After training at a traditional Japanese restaurant in Fukuoka prefec-ture for six years, Abe came to New York City ten years ago. Abe was involved with the opening of the restaurant and became executive chef two years ago. During our

visit, he introduced to us the Takenoko-fresh young bamboo shoots sashimi, Freshly Made Scooped Tofu and Uni egg custard topped with uni. Since each dish is simple, their flavors cannot be feigned. Each dish is carefully prepared with special attention given to texture and aroma with seasonal touches added to the presentation. Whether its preparing subtly flavored dishes that emphasize the freshness of the ingredients to unique combinations of food ingredients, Abes creativity knows no boundaries!

En Japanese Brasserie is unique due to their various selections of alcoholic beverages. Beverage Manager Takahiro Okada, responsible for all alcoholic beverages served at the restau-rant, compliments Abes dishes with his recommendations. Raised in a liquor store, Okada is a renowned veteran sake sommelier who gained a serious start in his career in New York City over ten years ago. The restaurants most popular course dish En Kaiseki offers two selections: Tsuki ($65.00) and Chef s Omakase ($90.00). The menu offers a choice for the Tsuki course to be paired with sake and shochu for an additional $35.00, while the same is offered for Chef s Omakase for an additional $45.00. These pairing courses are popular for offering excel-lent compatibility that best enhances the flavors of both the cuisine and sake. Their thorough service is also renowned, offering various brands of sakes to be in enjoyed in various styles according to the four seasons. Perhaps, this is the secret for their sake beverage sales constituting 40% of the total sales.

At En Japanese Brasserie, a charity event Love for Japan was held

Takenoko-freshyoungbambooshootssashimi/$12

FreshlyMadeScoopedTofu/$11

New YorkEN Japanese Brasserie

Text : Aya Ota / Photo : Hazuki Aikawa

435 Hudson St. (at Leroy St), New York, NY TEL: 212-647-9196 http://www.enjb.com/Lunch: Monday thru Saturday 12:00 pm - 2:30 pmDinner: Sunday thru Thursday 5:30 pm - 10:30 pm Friday & Saturday 5:30 pm - 11:30 pm

BYO Co., Ltd. 5F Nishiikikebukuro TS BLDG.3-1-15Nishiikikebukuro Toshima-ku Tokyo JAPAN TEL: 03-5957-5340 http://www.byo.co.jp/

May 2011 Vol. 21 No.150 27

UniChawanmushi/$9

left:BeverageManager,TakahiroOkada/right:ExecutiveChef,HirokiAbe

on March 23 to support the recovery of Eastern Japan from the recent earth-quake. Renowned jazz musician Wynton Marsalis performed live, and over several dozen merchandise of Madonna, Yoko Ono, George Clooney, major league baseball player Hideki Matsui, and others were sold through silent auction, attended by Martha Stewart. Foods and sake offered were selections from Fukushima, Miyagi, and Iwate Prefectures, the most damaged areas from the recent earth-quake. While requests were received from over 250 people to participate, some had to be turned down due to limited venue

45 40

3 23 LoveforJapan 2507 5123250 500

1. Average Price / Lunch $25 /

Dinner $65 - $75 (includes drink)

2. Daily Sales / N/A

3. Food Cost Percentage (%)

25~30%

4. Alcoholic Beverage Sales Percentage (%)

40%

5. Alcoholic Beverage Sales by Type ( )

N/A

6. Target Customer / High-end. 10% of Japanese customer.

7. Featured Menu / See Article

8. Food Supplier / Japanese distributor and other

9. Number of Workers / 40

10. Number of Seats (spaciousness) /

180 seats

11. Opening Date /September 2004

12. Number of Japanese sake brands sold and salableness

Approximately 60 brands

space. Over $75,000 were donated to the Japan Societys donation box to aid Eastern Japans recovery from the recent earthquake. Immediately following the earthquake, the charity event was planned and announced by En Japanese Brasserie only a week later, and held within only 2 ~ 3 business days following the announcement with the participa-tion of various celebrities and over 250 participants is testimony to the restau-rants appeal. Through their cuisine, sake, ambiance, and thorough service, En Japanese Brasserie had promoted Japan to their diners and established a fan base who regarded Japan with friendliness. I want to pass on the appeal of Japanese cuisine that isnt limited to sushi, said Abe. My goal is to establish a market for Japanese sake and shochu that is comparable to wine, said Okada. The restaurant will surely pass on not only quality Japanese cuisine, but also the spirit of the Japanese to their diners.

28 JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

1984 1950

1990

The previous year, sushi was extremely popular at the 1984 Los Angeles Olympics. Sushi was served at the welcome party held for Japanese baseball players as well as the U.S. major league baseball players, with many requests to set up a sushi booth. Kanai was aware that sushi was becoming a staple as finger foods served during parties. However, sushi served during the party at Century Plaza Hotel was made with the finest sushi ingredients and colorfully presented, which further added to the luxurious ambiance of each table. It seemed as if sushi was heightening the status of the party. When Kanai entered the food trade industry in the early 1950s, the only Japanese foods accepted by locals besides canned oranges and mushrooms were canned bee larvae, snakes, ants and other canned creatures. Nobody saw Japa-nese cuisine as having a unique, highly

developed culinary system. Thirty-five years later, sushi (raw fish on top of rice prepared with vinegar) is widely accepted and served to enhance luxurious parties attended by local American aristo-crats. Kanai mustve felt content at this progress. Five years and ten months later in Tokyo, Kanai recalls another incident when he was impressed similar to when he saw sushi served at the Republican Party. Kanai visited the Imperial party hall Houmeiden inside the Imperial Palace to attend a lunch party held two days after the Imperial Coronation cere-mony on November 14, 1990, the fourth of seven parties held. As President of PANA-USA, Kanai was invited to the Etiquette of the Corona-tion luncheon. The coronation ceremony held at the Matsu no ma and the party held by the emperor at Akasaka Gyoen were both profound experiences for him. However, the luncheon held three days later was the most unforgettable

experience for Kanai, for Japanese cuisine was served to the guests. Although some dishes were different, Japanese and foreign attendees alike were all served Japanese cuisine. Because French cuisine is usually served at Imperial events, this was the first time Japanese cuisine was served as a full course, and Kanai documented the menu precisely.

1. Soup type appetizer: Sliced fat-greenling with white miso soup2. Raw Fish Slice Plate:slices of seasonal sea bream and dried mullet roe3. Seasonal Appetizer:fish paste, yaki-tori, grilled salmon, mashed sweet potatoes with sweetened chestnuts, sweet jellied adzuki bean paste4. Grilled Dish:Grilled sea bream.5. Warm Dish:Savoy cup custard6. Vinegared dish: vegetable with small citrus fruit and shiba shrimp.7. Rice dish: steamed rice mixed with vegetables and sea bream.

8. Selected beverage: Japanese warm Sake

Kanai is steadfast in his confi-dence and pride that the sophistication of Japanese culinary traditions compare favorably to Europe. His belief never faltered after his long stay in the U.S. In fact, his convictions enhanced his long-term stay in the U.S. His moving experience at the Impe-rial luncheon was apparently not a coincidence compared to his experience nearly four months before. In Peru, South America, nearly at the opposite end of the globe from Japan, Kanai once again expe-rienced an appreciation for the beauty of Japanese culture and eastern ideologies when an unknown Nisei (second-genera-tion) Japanese American was selected as President. Alberto Kenya Fujimori is the first Japanese American in the world to assume the Presidency of a nation.

Common sense overturned by new ideas

FOOD HISTORY Noritoshi Kanai

1923 Born in Tokyo.1949 Graduated Hitotsubashi University.1951 Accession to the President of Tokyo Mutual Trading Company, Inc.1964 Moved to United States with his family. Accession to the President of Mutual Trading Company Inc. in Los Angeles. Kanais Biography, The Frontal Assault Concept was published.

Chapter 57

JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS |17|May 2010 Vol. 20, No.138JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS |17|May 2010 Vol. 20, No.138

30 JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS

to the project as well. The total amount of $3,157 had been donated at the kick-off party from NBC employees and other participants who attended the event. Before the kick-off party started, we had tried to get donations from the people who were passing by Japanese Village Plaza. Frances Hashimoto, Presi-dent, Mikawaya Toshio Handa, President, JCCSC, Carl Kawata, JCCSC, Suehiro Kimono Agency were standing

by and calling on people to donate gener-ously for the Japanese cause.Japanese sweets from Mikawaya were given away to people passing by the donation table. Suehiro Kimono Agency helped to put on Kimono, which had added a spice of the Japanese Culture to this event. Simply, what we can do for Japan to show our support and care is to eat Japanese food and drink to contribute to this charity project.

Dine in LA for Japan -Eat and Drink at Japanese restaurants to support Japan-

NBCUNICEF3,157On March 31st, on NBC Universal, the Japanese Restaurant Association of

America (JRA) and Japanese Chamber of Commerce of Southern California (JCCSC) had organized the Kick off Party of fundraising activity for Japan Earth-quake and Tsunami in Little Tokyo in the evening at Oiwake Restaurant . The purpose of this project entails 60 partici-pating restaurants that would be donating their partial daily sales till April 8th through UNICEF - the non-profit organi-zation overseeing all collected donations

that would be directly sent to Japan to support all the affected Japanese commu-nities in critically damaged areas.Roy Nakano, NBC Universals Director of Facilities and Distribution - Revenue Operations who is 3rd Generation of Japanese American had initially come up with the idea that when you dine at participant restaurants, you are automat-ically donating money to Japan because a portion of gross sales are allocated directly to UNICEF. NBC employees came to Oiwake Restaurant to contribute

Text by Keiko Azuma

JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS |5|May 2010 Vol. 20, No.138

May 2011 Vol. 21 No.150 33

ADAADA

(a)(b)(c)

ADA

WhitcombDesign MartinWhitcomb CertifiedAccessSpecialist Institute

Our law firm represents many Japa-nese restaurants in Southern California and unfortunately, over the last three years, we have seen an increase in the number of lawsuits against our clients by persons with disabilities . The justification for the lawsuit is the restau-rants violation of disabled access laws. As a result of these lawsuits, a violating restaurant has to pay damages to the plaintiff and hefty legal fees to the plain-tiff s lawyer.

In 1990, the federal government passed the Americans with Disabili-ties Act of 1990, (the ADA). This law provides injunctive relief and attorneys fees in lawsuits successfully brought to require equal access to business facilities and services. California ADA laws are even stricter. The minimum damage is $4,000 per violation. The violations can be added one on top of the other, creating a large monetary liability. Often, the lawyer for the plaintiff seeks injunctive relief and punitive damages as well.

Some of the lawsuits against our Japanese restaurant clients include claims that:

(a) that the aisles are too narrow for a wheelchair to navigate down.(b) the restroom is not disabled compliant (not enough maneuvering clearance); and(c) the handicap parking is missing or improper.

We even had one lawsuit filed against our client because the restaurant used part of the restroom for storage.

Restaurant owners need to be aware that:

1) The ADA laws encourage professional plaintiffs. Lawyers and handicapped individuals often team up together to target restaurants. They sometimes see successful Japanese restaurants as easy targets. A handicapped person (such as an elderly person who needs a walker) comes into the restaurant and looks over the premises. He takes notes of the possible violations, then reports them to his lawyer. A lawsuit then results.

2) Restaurants can be subject to multiple lawsuits. Even after the restaurant settles the first lawsuit, a new plaintiff (using

the same lawyer) sometimes files a new lawsuit for a different violation.

3) Older, established restaurants are not grandfathered in. They must still comply on items that are readily achiev-able. (This means that the restaurant must make changes that are easily accom-plished, such as changing door handles, replacing curled up threshold mats, rearranging seating to give access to wheelchairs, putting Braille on the bath-room signs, etc.)

The best preventative measures that a restaurant can take is to obtain an inspection certificate from a certified access specialist. The inspector will come to your premises, inspect it and give you a checklist of corrections that you should make. After the inspection, he will give you an inspection certificate that you can post on your restaurant window. This inspection certificate helps cut down on plaintiff lawsuits. It also gives your lawyer a legal edge in the court proceedings. If you have an inspection certificate and a lawsuit is filed, your lawyer can go to court and obtain a stay in the proceedings

for 90 days while you work out the issues. This helps cut down on litigation costs.

A copy of an inspection certificate is made a part of this article. The certi-fied access specialist that I use is Martin Whitcomb of Whitcomb Design . He is a founding member of the Certified Access Specialist Institute. (Contact info is: 818- 352-9555; martywhitcomb@hotmail.com or martywhitcomb@gmail.com). Mr. Whitcombs price is reasonable. He generally charges $400 as a retainer that he bills against. (His rates are $85 per hour). Usually, the inspection can be completed and the certificate given for a total cost of $1,000 or less.

Lawsuits against Japanese Restaurants by persons with disabilities are on the rise

By William D. Johnson

818-352-9555;mar t ywhi tcomb@hotmai l .com ormartywhitcomb@gmail.com Certified Access Specialist (CASp)

AtlantaAddress: 4554 Stonegate Ind. Blvd.,Stone Mountain, GA 30083Phone: (678) 317-9200

Boston Address: 22 Foodmart Road,Boston, MA 02118Phone: (617) 269-9988

Chicago Address: 950 Chase Avenue,Elk Grove Village, IL 60007Phone: (847) 718-0088

ColumbusAddress: 3004 East 14th Avenue,Columbus, OH 43219Phone: (614) 340-7575

Dallas Address: 8919 Governors Row,Dallas, TX 75247Phone: (214) 887-8009

DenverAddress: 6727 East 50th Street,Commerce City, CO 80022Phone: (303) 227-1344

DetroitAddress: 11876 Belden Court,Livonia, MI 48150Phone: (734) 266-1518

District of ColumbiaAddress: 3331 75th Avenue,Landover, MD 20785Phone: (301) 386-5355

Hartford Address: 2091 Meriden Road,Wolcott, CT 06716Phone: (203) 879-4099

HawaiiAddress: 2696 Wai Wai Loop,Honolulu, HI 96819Phone: (808) 836-3222

Las Vegas Address: 4460 Arville Street, #5,Las Vegas, NV 89103Phone: (702) 220-7265

Los Angeles Address: 4200 S. Alameda Street,Vernon, CA 90058Phone: (323) 846-3300

Maui Address: 173 Alamaha Street, #2,Kahului, HI 96732Phone: (808) 877-2852

Miami Address: 11205 North West 36th Avenue,Corner of 36th Avenue and 112th Street,Miami, FL 33167Phone: (305) 687-4303

New York Area Address: 32-34 Papetti Plaza, Elizabeth, NJ 07206Phone: (908) 351-9090

OrlandoAddress: 5129 Forsyth Commmerce Road, Orlando, FL 32807Phone: (407) 384-8531

PhiladelphiaAddress: 530 Foundry Road,Norristown, PA 19403Phone: (610) 635-1250

PhoenixAddress: 835 W. 22nd Street, #107,Tempe, AZ 85282Phone: (480) 377-8783

PortlandAddress: 301 East Grant Blvd.,Vancouver, WA 98661Phone: (360) 695-9577

RaleighAddress: 300 Dominion Drive,Morrisville, NC 27560Phone: (919) 655-1290

SacramentoAddress: 8384 Rovana Circle,Sacramento, CA 95828 Phone: (916) 383-6007

San FranciscoAddress: 1815 Williams Street, San Leandro, CA 94577 Phone: (510) 352-8140

SeattleAddress: 1501 South 92nd Place,Seattle, WA 98108Phone: (206) 766-8006

CANADAHalifax Address: RR#2 40 Goodick Road,Shelburne, NC B0T 1W0, CanadaPhone: (902) 875-3210

MontrealAddress: 705 Meloche Avenue,Montreal, QC, CanadaPhone: (514) 990-0611

TorontoAddress: 2480 Cawthra Road,Mississauga, ON L5A 2X2, CanadaPhone: (416) 410-1800

VancouverAddress: 12417 #2 Road, Unit #155,Richmond, BC V7E 6H7, CanadaPhone: (604) 878-1994

JAPANTokyo Address: 5-28-10 Higashi Gotanda-Chou,Shinagawa-Ku, Tokyo, JapanPhone: 81-3-5789-8961

KOREAPusan Address: 113-1, 6-Ga,Nampo-Dong, Jung-Gu, KoreaPhone: 82-51-231-1160

SPAINMadrid Address: C/Cordoba 11, Bjo-D/ Colmenar Viejo,Madrid, 28770, SpainPhone: 34-918456709

UNITED KINGDOMLondon Address: 4 Cullen Way,London, NW10 6JZ, United KingdomPhone: 44-20-8838-2063

For more information on availability, contact your local True World Foods branch. Visit our website at www.trueworldfoods.com

JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS |25|May 2010 Vol. 20, No.138

JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWSMay Vol. 20, No.138|36|