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Washington County Cooperative Extension Service
June 2020
Volume 16
Orange Rust 2
To Do’s 3
Dead Head 4
Plant of The Month 4
Wheelbarrow Series 5
Recipe of The Month
Inside this issue:
HORTICULTURE
Follow Us at
Washington County
Extension Service
Foliar tomato diseases have been showing up in a few area gardens in the last few weeks so
it's time to take precautions to keep these diseases in check when they visit your garden. I
say when because if you grow tomatoes in Kentucky you will undoubtedly get foliar
diseases.
The primary two diseases that I have noticed are early
blight and septoria leaf spot. It doesn’t really matter if
you know which of these you have but more that you
have leaf spots that need to be controlled. These fungal
pathogens cause dark spots in the leaves that gradually
get larger; the leaf turns yellow and then dies. The
fungal spores spread by wind and water splash and
prefer a moist environment much like we have had for
the last few weeks.
If you no-tice spots on your tomato leaves it is a good idea to start treating the plants with
protectant fungicides such as products con-taining Mancozeb or chlorothalonil. These
products come in concentrates that you di-lute in wa-ter and spray on with a hand held
sprayer. After a heavy rain the fungicides will need to be reapplied. Protectant fungicides
cannot cure infections on already infected leaves but will contain the disease spread so as
to prolong your harvest. Be sure to spray the lower and upper sides of the leaves. Before
spraying pull off the infected leaves and destroy them, this will reduce the severity of future
inoculation.
There are some cultural things you can do to help contain the likelihood of infection and
the spread. First, if at all possible don’t plant tomatoes in the same location every year.
Diseases can overwinter on plant debris and in the soil. Planting tomatoes back in the same
spot is asking for trouble. Secondly apply a mulch of some sort around your tomatoes, this
will reduce the soil splash unto the bottom leaves and reduce the chances of early
infection. Lastly, pull off the bottom most leaves when the first tomatoes set because by
then the lower leaves are shaded and not photosynthesizing anyway and they are generally
the first to get diseased.
Early Blight
Tomato Diseases Showing Up
Orange rust of brambles can be a concern for Kentucky blackberry and raspberry growers. The first symptoms are often noticed in early spring when newly formed shoots appear weak and spindly. Once infected, the pathogen
spreads throughout the entire plant. While orange rust is unlikely to kill brambles, it reduces vigor significantly and results in lower yields. Infected plants should be removed to reduce disease spread.
Orange Rust of Brambles Facts New shoots emerge with poor growth in early spring. Leaves may yellow and distort. Orange pustules develop
on the undersides of leaves, eventually covering these surfaces (Figure 1). Infected leaves often drop readily. Shoot tips and buds may also be infected.
Over time, infected plants exhibit poor growth, vigor, and fruit production. Once infected the disease spreads throughout the plant, and
all plant parts become infected. Thorny and thornless blackberries, as well as black and
purple raspberries, are susceptible. Red raspberries are not know to be infected.
Disease favors cool, moist periods. Infection may occur throughout the growing season, as long as conditions are
conducive. Caused by the fungi Gymnoconia nitens and Arthuriomyces
peckianus. The pathogens survive winter in infected plant tissues like
canes and roots.
Management Options Remove and destroy all nearby wild blackberries or black raspberries.
Insure that new plants are disease-free. Dig out infected plants (including roots) and burn or take
off-site, as soon as disease is confirmed. Fungicides are not recommended as they do not
adequately control orange rust. No fungicides are labeled for orange rust on brambles.
Additional Information
Orange Rust of Brambles (PPFS-FR-S-06) Fruit, Orchard, and Vineyard Sanitation (PPFS-GEN-05)
Backyard Berry Disease Management Using Cultural Prac-tices (with Low Spray, No Spray & Organic Options)
(PPFS-FR-S-25) Commercial Midwest Fruit Pest Management Guide (ID-232)
By Kim Leonberger, Plant Pathology Extension Associate and Nicole Gauthier, Plant Pathology Extension Specialist
Figure 1: Orange pustules develop on the undersides of leaves.
(Photo: Sandra Jensen, Cornell University, Bugwood.org)
Orange Rust - Non Curable Disease In Brambles
*Apply approximately one table-
spoon of Ammonium nitrate one
foot from the base of each tomato in
late June. This will force some new
growth and give you more late toma-
toes while the first ones are ripening.
*If you want sweet
corn later in the
season make addi-
tional plantings in
June.
*Vegetables gar-
dens as well as
flower beds need
approximately one
inch of water per
week.
*Tomatoes and
peppers are less
likely to get dis-
eases early on if
you apply a mulch before soil gets a
chance to splash onto their leaves.
*Begin a fungicide program for to-
matoes. Mancozeb, maneb, and
daconil give good protection against
most tomato diseases. Copper based
fungicides will give some control for
those wanting to remain organic.
*Mulch works just as well for vegeta-
ble gardens as it does for ornamen-
tals!
*If you haven’t mulched flower beds
go ahead and do so. Mulch will
greatly reduce the time it takes for
soil to dry out.
*Keep an eye on container plants,
they will need watering usually at
least once a day in the heat of sum-
mer and maybe twice a day for really
pot bound large plants. If you have-
n’t planted your containers yet mix a
cup or so of a moisture holding crys-
tal that will hold water and release it
when plants need it.
*June is also a good time to fertilize
annuals again especially if they are
starting to turn yellow from the bot-
tom up.
*Spring blooming
clematis should be
pruned immedi-
ately after flower-
ing in June. Sum-
mer and fall
blooming clematis
should be pruned
in March before
new growth oc-
curs.
*If you would like
to attract hum-
mingbirds plant
beebalm, lobelia,
cleome, columbine, four oclocks,
impatiens, petunias, and trumpet
vine.
*Feeding hummingbirds with feeders
will likely increase your numbers.
Wash the feeder weekly if the sugar
water is gone or not. Rinse it with
10% bleach and rinse thoroughly.
*Let your grass grow
longer during dry
spells. This will help
shade the ground and
conserve moisture in
the plant.
*If you haven’t planted
your sweet potatoes
yet you still have
plenty of time. A large
local greenhouse has a
lot of slips for sale.
*Sweet potatoes are
heat loving and prefer loose well
drained soil with weekly water re-
quirements of an inch. To help con-
serve moisture and keep the soil
loose apply a couple inches of good
organic mulch. Straw works great!
*Cut back spring blooming bulb foli-
age when it turns yellow. Don’t do it
before it turns yellow or you will re-
duce next seasons bloom.
*Remember to water your compost
pile and turn it regularly. If it dries
out it won’t “cook” properly and you
won’t have a good finished product.
*Don’t be surprised if your tree fruits
drop some of their load. This is nor-
mal and aptly called “June Drop”.
The trees are just managing their
crop load.
*Spray fruit crops periodically with a
multi-purpose fruit spray for insects
and diseases. Most homeowners
don’t need perfect fruit but biting
into a wormy apply isn’t pleasant.
*Some berry crops such as black-
berry and raspberry will ripen or start
to ripen this month so keep an eye
out for birds. They can clean your
plants relatively quickly. Bird netting
is your best bet for deterrence.
June To Do’s
In the garden, the practice of deadheading your plants can promote more blooms.
Plants live to reproduce, and the way they do that is through their flowers. When you remove dead blooms from a
plant, you also remove their ovaries. Many plants then take the energy it would have used to produce seeds and put it into producing more flowers, hoping the next time you’ll leave it alone to do its job. Of course, if you want
continuous bloom in the garden, you won’t.
From a purely aesthetic perspective, deadheading can improve the looks of your garden by reshaping plants and
removing unsightly waste. Not all plants will rebloom after deadheading, such as daylilies and daffodils. In fact, deadheading is used more for annuals than for perennials. However, the practice can still benefit perennials by
forcing them to put their energy into the bulb or rhizomes rather than into seed production. This often produces hardier plants that bloom more profusely next year.
Deadheading can also prevent reseeding, which can reduce your time spent weeding later. However, in late sum-
mer or early fall, allowing some plants, such as coneflowers, to form seeds can give overwintering birds and other wildlife an important food source.
Deadheading is an easy task and one that you can do as you stroll through your garden on a pleasant summer’s day. Simply pinch or cut off the dead bloom below the flower and above the first set of leaves. Do this to all the
dead flowers on the plant. Some perennials, like dianthus, bloom profusely all at once, which means the flowers will fade at the same time. It’s often easier to deadhead these with shears, taking the top one or two inches off the
stems. This can stimulate a second bloom, though it will not be as lush as the first bloom.
If you have multiple flowers on a stem, wait until all the flowers have faded, then cut back the main stem.
Some annuals, like petunia and verbena that produce lots of blooms also present a problem when deadheading. It
is tedious to remove all the spent blooms. Wait until a natural break in bloom, cut the plants back, and apply fertil-izer (only to annuals not to perennials in summer). Make sure there is ample water after fertilization. Many annuals
will respond by renewing growth and resuming flowering. Other annuals, like Wave petunias and Profusion zinnias often don’t need to be deadheaded. They will either continue to bloom without your help or are sterile and will not
produce seed.
Some perennials that will benefit from deadheading include foxglove, bee balm, hollyhock, coreopsis, butterfly
bush, lavender, salvia and scabiosa. Source: Rich Durham, Professor, UK Horticulture
Deadhead For Longer Bloom Time
Plant of The Month– Hybrid Tea Rose Peace
Hands down the most popular rose ever hybridized, and still going strong after more than half a century. Big, somewhat spreading,
rugged plants that will stay clean as long as you don't over fertilize. Some have claimed that this pink edged yellow is deteriorating be-
cause of over propagation, but if you go back to the fertilization methods of the era in which it was introduced, gardeners were de-
pendent upon manure and rarely employed commercial plant foods. Still appears in rose shows because it seems to survive any-
where. Flower Size: 5-7". Fragrance: Mild, fruity. Hybridizer: Meil-land, 1945.
Description from https://www.edmundsroses.com/product/E24085/13
February 13 Climate Change And Its Affect On Fruit Production In
Kentucky
February 20 Starting Plants From Seed Indoors
February 27 Bountiful Blueberries
March 5 Heirloom Tomatoes
March 26 Growing Asparagus In Kentucky
April 16 Queens Of The Garden….Hybrid Tea Roses
April 23 Lovely Lilacs
April 30 Beans, Beans, The Magical Fruit
May 7 How To Develop Monarch Butterfly Habitat
May 14 Perennials For Late Summer And Fall Color
May 21 Hosta's….Not What You Think
May 28 Sensational Sunflowers
June 4 Growing Hardy Figs In Kentucky
June 11 Growing Flowers For Drying
June 18 Easy Orchids
June 25 Growing Lavender In Kentucky
August 13 Aloes….Not Just Vera
August 20 Growing Great Greens In The Fall
September 3 Composting 101
September 10 New And Interesting Shrubs
September 17 Reblooming Bearded Iris
October 1 Vivacious Viburnums
October 15 Naturalizing With Hardy Bulbs
October 22 Holiday Cactus (Thanksgiving, Christmas, Easter)
October 29 Putting The Garden To Bed
Basic Registration For Any and All Classes $5.00 X
Total From Above
Minus Discount of $10.00 if Doing Entire Series
And Paid In Full By 2-13-2020
TOTAL
Gardeners Wheelbarrow Series 2020
Call the Extension Office to register at 859-336-7741
245 Corporate Drive
Springfield KY, 40069
Office 859-336-7741
Fax 859-336-7445
Email [email protected]
Washington County Cooperative Extension Service
We Are On The Web!!!
washington.ca.uky.edu
Facebook at:
https://www.facebook.com/WashingtonCountyKentucky4H/
Ingredients
Directions
Ingredients: 6-7 cups of chopped fresh kale
1/2 cup shelled, roasted and salted pecans or pistachios 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 whole avocado, peeled and seed removed salt and pepper to taste
Directions: Wash kale in lukewarm water. Remove any roots, rough ribs and the
center stalk if it is large or fibrous. Chop into small pieces. Combine kale, nuts, Parmesan cheese, lemon juice, garlic and
avocado in food processor. Pulse ingredients until minced and smooth paste forms. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with fresh veggies,
whole wheat crackers, whole wheat pasta, or bread.
Recipe of The Month - Kale Pesto