KANTHA STITCHES:- Kantha comprises of the simplest stitch in the language of embroidery - the running stitch. It is the way in which this stitch is used, in different arrangements, that forms the complex vocabulary of kantha. Originally it was used to join layers of old saris, to make quilts. It was also used as a means of self expression by both urban and rural women in Bengal.

The Sanskrit word kantha means 'rags.' One legend links their origins to Lord Buddha and his disciples, who used to cover themselves with garments made from discarded rags that were patched and sewn together. Rags displayed at Indian shrines or tied to tree limbs symbolize prayers and wards off the evil eye. The oldest extant kantha date from the early 1800s and is embroidered with blue, black and red threads that were unraveled from sari borders. Because they were salvaged from used garments that had been frequently laundered, the colors tend to be muted.

There are seven different types of kantha:

Lep kantha are rectangular wraps heavily padded to make warm coverlets. The entire piece would be stitched in wavy, rippled designs over which simple embroidery was executed.

Sujani kantha are rectangular pieces of cloth used as blankets or spreads on ceremonial occasions.

Baiton kantha are square wraps used for covering books and other valuables. They are elaborately patterned with borders of several rows of colorful designs.

Oaar kantha are rectangular pillow covers in simple designs with a decorative border sewn around the edges.

Archilata kantha are small, rectangular covers for mirrors or toilet accessories with wide, colorful borders in assorted motifs.

Durjani/thalia kantha are small rectangles with a central lotus design and embroidered borders. Three corners of the rectangle are folded inward to form a wallet.

Rumal kantha are used as absorbent wipes or plate coverings. They also feature a central lotus with ornamented borders.

Origin:- West Bengal & Bangladesh

HISTORY:- The kantha in its simplest form was invented out of necessity and made in varying sizes and layers, starting with small pieces of cloth spread in the courtyard to lay new born babies on while they were massaged with mustard oil, to the light covers that adults use at night, and wrap over their shoulders in winter mornings.

Kantha was almost never made for money, and the idea of using this embroidery commercially, originated more in urban groups where young women were trained from scratch, rather than from women who have done this work all their lives. There was a growing interest in this craft form in the 1980s and Sasha did a lot of research that culminated in several exhibitions. They also became involved in groups who started making kanthas commercially for the first time. Most of these women did not have a formal education and rarely went out of their villages.

When these groups formed, they didn't need further training in embroidery, but they needed to learn accounting, management, raw material buying etc. Self-Help Handicrafts Society (a sister concern of Sasha's) was involved in the development of all these groups and shared their experiences and knowledge. Other things also changed with commercial work. They used frames to hold the fabric. The old way of several women working on one large piece of work however continued. They learnt about tracing designs (which they never did before, earlier, they just drew the designs straight on the fabric with a pencil) and money management.

Many women in rural Bengal do a lot of kantha work for traders in Calcutta. But the women who work with Sasha feel that they are doing work of a very high quality and that is something they are very proud of. They feel they are specialists and their work cannot easily be done by anyone else. Also the feeling of belonging to a small and exclusive group is very important. Most of these women have grandchildren and they do all the housework, look after various domestic animals, children etc. So they often need to put in extra hours at night to complete a rush order.

In the 1980s and Sasha did a lot of research that culminated in several exhibitions. They also became involved in groups who started making kanthas commercially for the first time.

STITCHES:-

The basic run stitch done in a random way.

A jaal or tesselletion

The dorma or mat

The simple run arranged evenly

The golak dhaga or maze

Simple jhod or pairs

Jhinge phool or flower of the ridge gourd( a vegetable)

Dhaan chori or a stem of paddy

A jaal or tessellation