A BRIEF INTRODUCTION TO KEFALONIA Kefalonia, although very popular as a holiday destination, still has a lot of that feel of an undiscovered gem. The tourist season, with direct package flights available from the UK, runs from the start of May until the end of October. May can be an ideal time for exploring Kefalonias footpaths, roads and off-road tracks. Refreshed by the winter rain, the grass is green and the fields and hedgerows abundant with colourful flowers that have burst into life while the rest of the island slowly re-awakens from its slumber. The roads, tavernas and beaches are uncrowded, the pace unhurried. About once every four or five years Helios, the Greek sun-god, is a little late arriving and May can be a little less sunny than usual with cool evenings and nights, but usually May is pleasantly warm by day and refreshingly cool of an evening. Come June the weather settles down and more worshippers of Helios are following his chariot across the sky to pay homage on Greece's glorious beaches. Kefalonia is no exception: down on the south coast lie the long, sandy beaches of Skala, Lassi and Xi while dotted between are less-known or smaller - but equally glorious beaches, such as Trapezaki, Agios Tomas, Ai Heli, Lepeda. Secluded coves lay hidden around the island waiting for you to discover them. Kefalonia has one of the most spectacular beach views in the world - Myrtos Bay. A deep green mountain drops dramatically down to a wide white beach where the ever-changing blue hues of the Mediterranean slowly wash ashore while, in the back-ground, the castle-topped almost-island of Assos clings to Kefalonia by a narrow strip of low land where sits the tranquil hamlet, many of its original buildings still standing. Little ever happens in Assos and its so relaxing watching it not happen. Fiskardo, long known to the yacht set and now visited by the rich and famous, offers a mix of quaint olde-world charm and luxurious grace for those who seek it, while inland the heights of Mount Aenos and the cavernous depths of Drogarati and Melissani are among the varied delights awaiting those who like to explore and get the most out of their holiday Ithaka, Levkas and Zakynthos are but a cruise away look out for the dolphins!

In July and August sleepy villages, where time seems to stand still, suddenly burst into life, adding their own colour and gaiety to the natural beauty of the island: this is festival season and almost every evening there will be a festival somewhere on the island. Days tend to be long and the nights short as the festivals usually start around 21:00 and really come to life around 23:00 - around 02:00 the following morning people will start drifting off. Although the festivals are part of Greece's long tradition and culture, visitors are quite welcome to join in the festivities, making Kefalonia ideal for matureminded people who can really appreciate all it has to offer. During high summer the temperature can often top 40C in the shade during the day and the nights remain warm, so a room with air-conditioning, or a bed-side fan, is a real bonus. While Corfu to the north, and Zakynthos to the south, have a reputation as popular party islands, Kefalonia retains an aura of authenticity and is most suited to visitors able to appreciate the difference. You might find a caf serving English food but Kefalonia remains a McDonalds-free zone. Greek food has a high reputation and Kefalonia, being very popular with Greek visitors, offers the traditional favourites as well as tasty local specialities such as kreatopita (Kefalonia Meat Pie). Greek wine complements Greek cuisine perfectly and Robola, a dry white wine unique to Kefalonia, has such a good reputation among wine connoisseurs that its exported around the world. Much less known is the rather good red wine produced on the Palliki peninsular. Both available very inexpensively from the barrel with your meal. Enjoy! September is a very popular month with the British, the days are pleasantly warm, nights pleasantly cool, and the kids are back at school. With luck, the summer drought will end sometime during September or October and we might be blessed with a thunderstorm followed by light, warm rain for three days. October is very quiet, the weather still pleasant but the nights are drawing in: ideal for long, quiet, romantic evenings in an uncrowded sea-front taverna. For a Kef weather record chart (thanks to JollyRoger) and daily weather forecasts see: GoingGreek.info - Kefalonia News & Weather

ACCOMMODATION Traditionally, accommodation in Greece is fairly basic, having evolved from 'village rooms' in private houses, hence very similar to the owner's own accommodation. This is largely still true of the smaller, family run, accommodation available today. For those who desire it, the more recent and larger hotels offer a higher level of amenities, albeit at a higher price. Self-catering accommodation This is the most popular and widely-available type of holiday accommodation. A studio for two will usually consist of a single room with twin (i.e. two single) beds and a kitchenette with a small en-suite room comprising the toilet, wash-basin and shower. A studio for three will accommodate an extra bed, this may be a sofa-bed or camp bed. An apartment will be very similar to a studio but with an attached bedroom. Double beds are rare and, when it's hot, that's something to be grateful for. For the vast majority of people who visit Greece, Greek food is one of the attractions and is best enjoyed by sampling the local tavernas. Thus the 'self catering' kitchen facilities are likely to be very basic, usually a sink unit with drainer, drawer and cupboard, a two-ring electric table-top cooker and a fridge. Kitchens utensils are likely to consist of a large pan, a frying pan (maybe) and a small pan, which is actually the Greek kettle, or briki, used for making Greek coffee. Also British tea. As the term implies, in self-catering accommodation youll need to supply your own consumables, all available locally. If your studio/apartment has a balcony or terrace youre likely to find a table and chairs there, otherwise these will be in the main room. You may get an electric kettle / toaster / grill oven, etc, but dont expect it and much less a microwave unless its in the brochure description. Showers are often hand-held and shower curtains are traditionally considered unhygienic. Water is scarce and electricity expensive in Greece and you may find that the water is heated by solar power, although these days most accommodation has mains back-up. Nonetheless, you might find the temperature and pressure are lower between the hours of 17:00-19:00 as this is when most people shower.

On arrival you should find a toilet roll in the shower room, in self-catering accommodation you replace these yourself as and when needed. Dont forget - put used toilet paper in the bin provided, not down the toilet as this is likely to block the pipes and you will be liable for any expenses incurred. The maid will empty the bin on her visits, or you can empty it yourself into one of the nearby wheeliebins. Air-conditioning may be available and may be included in the price or may be an optional extra, payable locally. Maid service and linen change is likely to be twice a week, once on the day you arrive and then 3-4 days later. This will be specified in the brochure description for the accommodation so, if youre fussy about such things, make sure you check before you book. Hotel rooms Hotel rooms and suites tend to be very similar to self-catering rooms but without any kitchen facilities. There may be a fridge in your room although this may be payable locally if you want to use it (as not everyone will). Similarly, airconditioning, where available, may be included in the price but is often an optional extra, payable locally. Items such as toilet rolls will normally be supplied by the hotel, maid service and linen change may be more frequent than in selfcatering accommodation - as always, check the brochure before booking. Villas Villas usually offer just about everything youd find in a private house, including television and DVD/stereo system (but may not include a telephone and computer, so internet access may not be available) and are invariably self-catering. Many come with a private or shared pool and some with a car included (see Car Hire). When booking a villa and car make sure the car is big enough not only for all your party but also for the luggage. Trying to fit five people and all their luggage into a Seicento isn't a great idea (and invalidates the insurance). Maid service usually between 3-7 days a week. As always, check before you book. Note: While you are occupying the accommodation you are responsible for the contents.If you do break or lose anything please inform the owner, as soon as possible, so that a replacement can be obtained.Take great care of the key as these can be difficult to obtain, necessitating a journey to Argostoli.

ADVICE FOR VISITORS Hopefully none of this will affect you. However, a few minutes spent before departure and shortly after arrival may save time, money and distress as any of these can occur: Accidents & Emergencies (see also: Doctors / Health & Safety) Sometimes happen, both at home and overseas. Before you depart, leave your contact details name of tour company (if any), airline, where youre staying with a friend or relative. In resort, make a note of essential phone numbers: the local medical centre / doctor, taxi drivers and, if you're on a package holiday, the tour companys emergency phone number. If youre taking a mobile phone on holiday ensure you have enough credit and the battery charger. Otherwise, buy a 'phone card and know where the nearest phones are. If you have children with you, make sure they have your mobile 'phone number (in case they get lost). If you / one of your party are ill / have an accident, be sure to inform the tour company (if on a package holiday). Credit Cards Make a note of their numbers and keep this separate from the cards. If you have more than one, only carry one and leave the other/s in a secure place. Keep a note of the number to contact should they part company from you. Drugs Prescription drugs: Generally, its best to keep all valuables in your room. If you are taking medication and there is any chance that you may be ill while out, carry enough medication with you, plus a prescription, or at least the name of the medication. Illegal substances: In Greece, penalties are severe for anyone who uses or traffics illegal substances or who associate with traffickers. Note: Although available in the UK, codeine is an opiate. It's illegal to bring it in to the country and it's illegal for pharmacists in Greece to dispense it without a prescription. If necessary, the local doctor will be able to prescribe codeine, or an alternative.

European Health Insurance Card - EHIC See your European Health Insurance Card for details of how the scheme operates. Should you need medical assistance it may be helpful to have this with you, although your holiday insurance may be more useful. Insurance If you need any medical treatment it may be useful to have this with you at the time you see the doctor, although local doctors may not have the facilities to accept payment other than in cash. Therefore, should you wish to make a claim on your insurance, you should (try to) obtain a receipt for all consultations / treatments / medications. Some holiday insurance polices exclude dangerous activities such as riding motorcycles and scooters, water sports, etc. Money Travellers Cheques are the safest way to carry money. Carry only as many as you need for the day, preferably in a money belt or inside pocket, and keep a separate record of all the numbers, as well as the contact details of the issuer. Sign them upon receipt and take your passport when you wish to cash them. Passports Only carry your passport when you need it, e.g. to change money. Should you lose your passport it will be easier and quicker to obtain a replacement if you have a note of your passport number. Tickets Keep your airline tickets in a safe place. If you lose them inform the tour company / airline a.s.a.p. In an emergency, replacement tickets can usually be issued at the airport but there is normally an admin fee. Valuables Greece is, on the whole, a very safe country for residents and visitors. Crime does exist but its mainly in certain areas of Athens and in party resorts such as Laganas, Zakynthos, where the perpetrators are usually fellow tourists.

Where safety deposit boxes are available it's usually as an optional extra but the small cost could save a larger loss. However, they aren't always available as, on most islands, the crime rate is very low. Greeks are basically honest and respectful of others property and possessions but you cant always be sure who else has come on holiday so, when youre out and at night, its prudent to keep doors and windows locked. Finally in the unlikely event that you lose your passport, wallet, watch etc, there is a reasonably good chance that it will be handed in, possibly to the local police or, more likely, to the taverna, bar or shop nearest to where it was found. If it cant be found inform your rep and obtain a police report if you intend to claim on your insurance.

A briki (breekee)

ALCOHOL Greece is famous for at least three national drinks - ouzo, Metaxa and retsina plus the more secretive tsipouro. And then there's Amstel. Ouzo is derived from the anise seed and is traditionally served in a small glass, accompanied by a tall glass of water. Sometimes the water is added to the ouzo; sometimes its consumed after each sip. Legend has it the best ouzo comes from Mytilene (Lesvos). Tsipouro / raki / grappa is the original version of ouzo real firewater! Locally produced tsipouro, when available, is very inexpensive - and potent: it can have the strange habit of making the ground rush up to meet you. Metaxa is the brand name of the leading koniak (cognac) and, according to Alec Gilroy (ex-landlord of the Rovers Return), its the nectar of the gods (and who am I to disagree?) Seven Star is the most palatable and expensive of the 'regular' koniaks; Five Star is quite drinkable, Three Star is probably best consumed with a mixer. Look out for the special editions in replicas of ancient painted amphora a nice gift (especially if for you!). Retsina is the traditional Greek wine. According to legend, the best retsina comes from the Attica region around Athens. Like ouzo, an acquired taste - however, there are many other very good Greek wines available, some of which, such as Robola, are mentioned in the Wine section. Fix was the original Greek beer, established in 1864 by a close friend of the newly-appointed King Otto and, for around a hundred years, the only beer widely available in Greece. Going back to the happy, hippy years of the sixties, when long haired, penniless young people fell in to the hippy trail to Constantinople (and ended up on the Greek beaches), Fix was the Greek beer hence the saying get my daily Fix ?? Continental beers started to appear during the sixties and, following the demise of the Fix brewery, Amstel became the premier Greek lager. Although Amstel is now owned by Heineken the Amstel you buy in Greece is brewed in Greece. Amstel, of course, are one of the main sponsors of the Champions League and very good it is too. Especially when you can relax and watch it with a glass or two of chilled Amstel.

ARGOSTOLI Argostoli has been the capital and administrative centre of Kefalonia since 1757. Prior to this the islands capital was nearby Agios Yeorgios, also known simply as Kastro (i.e. the castle of St. George). This fortress had provided a safe haven against marauding invaders for centuries but, when the pirate threat receded, the population started to move down to Argostoli in order to take better advantage of the trading opportunities offered by the sheltered bay off the Gulf of Argostoli where the trading warehouses were situated. As Argostoli prospered the inhabitants petitioned Venice, the colonial power, to make Argostoli the capital of the island and, much to the vexation of rival Lixouri, this request was granted in 1757. Argostoli prospered and became one of the busiest Greek island ports, exporting raisins and grain and importing mainly Italian clothes and furniture. Argostoli expanded but, in terms of administration, little changed between 1866 and 1999 when, following application of the Kapodistrias Law of 1997, communities around the town united to form the Municipality of Argostoli, which included the settlements of Spilia, Helmata, Kompothekrata, Lassi, Minies and ten former communities: Agona, Davgata, Dilinata, Zola, Thinia, Kourouklata, Nifi, Troyiannata, Faraklata and Farsa. The census of 2001 recorded a population of 12,589 in the Argostoli municipality with around 75% of those people living in Argostoli town. Under Kallikrates Law, w.e.f. January, 2011, Kefalonia became one large municipality with Argostoli as its capital. To the east of Argostoli town, at the end of the bay, beneath the aforementioned Castle of St. George, sits the Koutavos Lagoon, a feeding ground for the loggerhead turtles (Caretta caretta). Now a waterfowl reserve, the Koutavos Lagoon was once an almost impassable swamp with mosquitoes and malaria rife. Under the British governor of the island, General Sir Charles James Napier, a wooden bridge was constructed across the lagoon in 1813 by Colonel Charles Philip de Bosset, a Swiss engineer in the employ of the British army. Four years later stone arches were added and, after some 26 years, the entire bridge was rebuilt in stone. In continuous use until 2005, this narrow bridge is now closed to traffic, awaiting renovation by the Greek Ministry of Culture.

The closure of the bridge to vehicles makes for a very pleasant, and virtually flat, walk around the lagoon. Almost halfway along the Drepano Bridge stands a stone obelisk built by the British to celebrate their stay. At the end of the low, dog-legged bridge a right turn, followed by the first left, leads uphill to the small Agia Barbara church, built into the rock at the end of the narrow gorge. Continuing straight on over the bridge leads shortly to the welltended British Cemetery and, a little further on, the equally well-tended Greek Orthodox cemetery at Drepano. The contrast in styles is quite noticeable. The coastal road out of Argostoli to the west was known during the Venetian period as the Piccolo Gyro (Piccolo Yiro), a very pleasant (if rather long) circular walk to some superb beaches in the (now very popular) Lassi area. Along the Piccolo Gyro, in the Vlikha area facing Lixouri, lie the Swallow Holes of Katovothres, a unique geological phenomenon. Sea water disappears underground and travels under the island, re-emerging some fourteen days later in the Karavomylos area of Sami, having passed through the nearby, and very spectacular, underground Melissani Lake. The power of this sea water was harnessed, in 1835, to power a mill via a waterwheel. A further water mill, a little nearer to Argostoli, was added in 1859. This mill, with the waterwheel inside the building, is now the popular Thalassomilo (literally sea mill) caf bar and taverna. A recently refurbished (and rather unsympathetically styled) bar-come-nightclub sits on the site of the first mill, next to the once-restored wheel by the swallow holes. The earthquake of 1953 shifted the balance of the island and rendered the mills, as they were, unworkable. You can still see the sea water trickle down the swallow holes. A little further along the Piccolo Gyro is the Agion Theodoron lighthouse, named after the small adjacent church. More commonly known as the Fanari lighthouse, this too was built during the British occupation, in 1829. The original building was destroyed in the 53 earthquake and re-built, complete with Doric-style columns, from the original plans (which the British had, of course, filed away somewhere). Around 2002 it was tastefully restored to its former glory. During World War II Argostoli suffered, as did the rest of Kefalonia, at the hands of the Nazi occupation force. Argostoli was occupied by the more sympathetic Italian forces but when they tried to evacuate by sea, having surrendered to the Allies, they were bombed by the Nazis.

A number of Italian officers were held captive by the Nazis in the Red Villa, almost next to the Fanari lighthouse. They were then marched along the Piccolo Yiro to the junction, on the left. Directly opposite this junction are green railings and inside is a natural horseshoe-shaped rocky pit. Here the Italians were massacred by the Nazis. A plaque on the rock face, in Greek and Italian, commemorates this in-humane event. If you take the left turn here it leads past the Italian War Memorial, near the brow of the hill, and back down in to the Old Harbour area of Argostoli (short route). Continue past the junction for Lassi. The return route, over the hill between Lassi and Argostoli, is much shorter that the outward journey. Original buildings that werent shattered by German bombing in 1943 were destroyed ten years later in the earthquake that razed virtually all of Kefalonia, apart from the Fiskardo area, to the ground. Very little remains of old Argostoli and any colour photographs you may see of old Argostoli are invariably from the film set of Captain Corellis Mandolin which, although set largely in Argostoli, was actually filmed in the (much quieter) town of Sami. One of the few remaining buildings is the Kosmetatos Mansion, just off Plateia Valianos, the main square in Argostoli. This is now a small, private museum (open to the public) housing a numismatic collection and sets of lithographs. A little further along, past the prefecture offices (town hall) on the opposite side, is the Archaeological Museum (generally open from 09:00-15:00, TuesdaySaturday, not feast days), which contains the most important finds from Kefalonia, including those from the Mycenaean tomb at Tzanata, near Poros. Across from the Archaeological Museum is the Kefalos Theatre and, up the road to the left of the theatre, the interesting Folklore and Cultural Museum (beneath the Koryialenios Public Library both open 09:00-14:00, Monday-Friday, not main festival days). Opposite the Archaeological Museum are the law courts, originally constructed by the British with stone (allegedly) from the Cyclopean site at nearby Krani. Next to the courts is the start of Lithostroto, the pedestrian shopping centre of Argostoli which, along with Plateia Valianos, is the place to be in the evening, when casual shoppers mingle with caf society in a very pleasant ambience. Along Lithostroto, next to the Catholic Church, is a tiny museum (open some mornings and most evenings) dedicated to the soldiers of the Italian Acqui Division.

A little further along is the Bell Tower. Rebuilt in 1985 to house the original clock mechanism, the ground floor is a pleasant, community-run, street caf on Campanile Square providing employment for local people with learning difficulties. A climb to the top of the bell tower is rewarded with views along Lithostroto and across the bay. To the right of the de Bosset Bridge, heading towards the end of the lagoon, is the new bus station which connects Argostoli with the other towns and some of the villages on the island, as well as with Patras and Athens. A local produce market is situated just behind the bus station while a sprawling fruit and vegetable market runs along the seafront the other side of the bridge. Further along, by the Rock Caf, loggerhead turtles can often be seen, particularly in the morning when the local fishing boats are selling their catch. Waste scraps tend to be tossed over the side of the boats and the turtles get a free lunch. This part of the seafront is busy with yachts and a few local cruise boats in the summer months, while the big cruise ships have to drop anchor in the bay behind the Port Police offices. The main ferry port, connecting Argostoli with the mainland (via Kyllini) and Zakynthos (also known as Zante) is next to this building. The local Argostoli-Lixouri ferry (twice an hour in summer, once an hour in winter) docks just a little further along. During the thirty-minute crossing its sometimes possible to catch sight of the pod of dolphins that live in the bay. A new pier, servicing the large cruise liners that call in to Argostoli, lies a little further along. Opposite the Port Police office is a short road leading to the main square, Plateia Valianos. Behind the square are the recently restored Napier Gardens, where the vineyards once stood on the Koutoupi hill. Although architecturally uninspiring following the post 53 re-build, Argostoli has a certain charm about it and can manage to be busy but unhurried at the same time. The only serious shopping centre on the island, it can be very busy weekday mornings when everyone is going about their daily business, yet its still possible to sit and relax outside one of the many coffee shops and enjoy an unhurried frappe while watching the world wander past.

Evenings in Argostoli are even more pleasant. By 14:00 most of the crowds have drifted away and Argostoli goes very quiet: just about everything, bar some tavernas, closes for siesta. Sometime after 17:00, on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays, the shops will re-open. With all the business completed in the morning or left until another day the atmosphere is very unhurried as, later in the evening, people indulge in relaxed retail therapy or meet up in the coffee shops and tavernas to sit and chat the night away.

BANKS (tra-peza) is the Greek word for bank and will inevitably be on the sign outside the bank. Banking hours may vary slightly from bank to bank but, generally, banks are open from 08:00 until 14:00 Monday to Thursday and from 08:00 until 13:30 on Friday. They are closed on Saturday and Sunday and on, well, Bank Holidays of which there are several (see Feasts and Festivals). MasterCard, Visa and American Express cards should all work in Greece as in the UK / USA, etc. Debit cards and bank service cards should work if they bear the Cirrus and/or Maestro symbol. Location of banks: Argostoli, Fiskardo, Lixouri, Poros There are ATM facilities in these locations on Kefalonia: Argostoli, Fiskardo, Lixouri, Poros, Sami (?), Skala (one of which tends to be a bit unreliable). Dont forget your PIN !!

BATS, BIRDS & BEES and other flying things Greece is blessed with a wide variety of flying things, including varieties of birds that were once common in the UK but no longer are. On Kefalonia theres a water-fowl sanctuary at the end of the Koutavos lagoon in Argostoli, where youll find swans, geese and ducks, and its quite common to see cormorants close to rocky beaches. Youre also quite likely to see some very big birds of prey overhead, including buzzards. If you drive from Argostoli Lixouri youll pass, at the end of the Argostoli Gulf, a wetland area where its common to see various wading birds, particularly when the weather is bad. Greece is famous for its honey and, especially in rural areas, you might notice collections of small white, wooden cubes (OK, sometimes they might be painted sky blue) Greek beehives. The bees, even the big black ones (flying olives), arent a problem. Unless you upset them. Dont upset the bees!!! Greek honey is pure, natural and delicious. You can find Greek honey in the local shops and you might notice that local Kefalonian honey tends to be more expensive than, say, honey from Crete. The less expensive honey tends to be better for pouring; Kefalonian honey is thicker in consistency. When you're out and about you might notice hand-painted signs on gates and walls advertising home-made honey: the word to lookout for is (meli). You might also come across some bats darting about during early evening. They arent especially photogenic in close-up but theyre totally harmless to humans and do a great job devouring the midges, as do the House-Martens and Swallows. Its quite fascinating to watch these birds swooping down to the pools for water and, if youre lucky, you might have a nest above your door - of course, theyre totally harmless so please dont disturb the nests. See also: Bird Watching, a bit further down.

BEACHES Lifes a beach! Thats certainly true in Greece where, each year, some 450 beaches - the most in the Mediterranean - win the prestigious Blue Flag award from the independent International Blue Flag co-ordination committee. This guarantees that the beaches meet the minimum standards relating to environmental management and information, water quality, safety and services. The list of Blue Flag beaches on Kefalonia may vary slightly each year, depending upon the resources of the local council to provide facilities, and there are many other very good beaches around the island which offer similar standards but which arent organised beaches. Blue Flag beaches on Kefalonia & Ithaka usually includes: Agia Barbara, Katelios Aragia, Poros Avythos, Svoronata Dexa, Ithaka Lourdas Loutsa, Ithaka Makrys Yialos & Platys Yialos, Lassi Myrtos Petani Skala Xi Koroni, Trapezaki, Agios Tomas, Lepeda, are good examples of 'non-organised' beaches, which are generally just as clean but may lack tourist facilities, i.e. theyre more natural beaches.

BEASTIES Mosquitoes, unlike French farmers, are still partial to a bit of fresh British meat and no doubt theyll be pleased to m-eat you. On Kefalonia there isnt a particular problem with mosquitoes but they do exist and they seem to be attracted to some people more than others. If you know youre a mozzie magnet see your local GP before your holiday, otherwise there are various preventative potions, including Deet and Autan. The Greeks use vinegar so, if you dont mind smelling like a chip shop on a Friday night, thats an inexpensive option. (Greek vinegar, by the way, is balsamic rather than malt). If you havent got a mozzie machine you can get one from the local grocery shops, also refills when needed. These plug in to the mains electric supply in your room and emit a vapour disliked by mozzies. Change the tablet nightly before you plug it in and it acts as a deterrent (dont forget to unplug it during the day while youre out!). Alternatively, you can buy plug-in mozzie repellent in liquid form; this might last the whole holiday. A few years ago I was working on Spetses with a young Swedish rep lithe long legs, blond hair and blue eyes his name was Sven. Oh well! No, actually her name was Maria and she was a very nice girl so Im sure this is true: Maria advised her guests, at her Welcome Meeting, to buy a mozzie machine. A few days later one of her guests came to see her. He had followed her advice and bought a mozzie machine but was covered in big red bites. Like most Swedes he spoke English reasonably well, but he couldnt read English. There was only one word he recognised ...so he ate the tablet. Dont keep taking the tablets !! Jellyfish exist in Greek waters as they do around the UK, but they are rarely a big problem. I have seen some around Kefalonia early in the season, but not frequently. The clear ones are harmless, ones with coloured (e.g. purple) veins sting. A traditional 'relief' is to pee on the wound (but you may have to be a contortionist); ammonia sticks are availably in grocery shops. Otherwise consult a pharmacist, or a doctor.

Sea urchins look something like baby hedgehogs and live on the sea bed usually, but not always, in rocky areas. When dead and devoid of spikes the shells are rather attractive and surprisingly fragile, hence the spines. These protect live sea urchins and they can be extremely painful if you stand on one. You may be able to squeeze the spine out after soaking with olive oil but it's probably best to seek medical advice. Now for a surprise: you may see a fisherman eating 'sea urchin salad' - a delicacy. At one time Kefalonia had a bit of a reputation for sea urchin salad. Snakes and such things (herpetology) see Snake Festival

BIRD WATCHING For keen bird watchers, Lesvos is generally regarded as the most rewarding Greek island to visit. Kefalonia, although not so abundant in the variety or amount of bird life, shouldnt disappoint. The Livadi wetland, at the end of the Argostoli Gulf between Argostoli and Lixouri, is well known for wading birds. Ive read, and heard first-hand, that Katelios is a good base, with a variety of birds locally and fairly easy access to Mount Ainos (4x4 required to reach the summit). Below is a list of near 200 birds (some migratory) identified on Kefalonia since 1988, compiled from reports by John Jennings; Kevin and Susan Boyd; John & Sue Roberts; John Armstrong (via birdtours.co.uk); A. Vittery; Paul Felton Whitehead (via Friends of the Ionian). African Collared Dove, Alpine Swift, Aquatic Warbler, Avocet Barn Swallow, Bittern, Blackbird, Blackcap, Black-eared Wheatear, Black Headed Bunting, Black-headed Gull, Black-headed Wagtail, Black Kite, Blacknecked Grebe, Blue-headed Wagtail, Blue Rock Thrush, Black Stork, Black Tern, Black Winged Stilt, Black Woodpecker, Blue Rock Thrush, Blue Tit, Bonellis Eagle, Bonelli's Warbler, Broad-billed Sandpiper Calandra Lark, Cattle Egret, Cettis Warbler, Chaffinch, Chiff-chaff, Cirl Bunting, Coal Tit, Collared Dove, Collared Fly-catcher, Common Bittern, Common buzzard, Common Kestrel, Common Pheasant, Common Sandpiper, Common Stonechat, Common Swift, Common Wheateater, Common Whitethroat, Coot, Cormorant, Corn Bunting, Crested Lark, Crested Tit, Cretzschmars Bunting, Cuckoo, Curlew Sandpiper Dunlin Eagle Owl, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Eleonoras Falcon, Eurasian Curlew, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, European Bee-eater, Eurasian Tree Creeper, European Roller, European Serin Fan-tailed Warbler, Feral Pigeon, Firecrest

Garden Warbler, Garganey, Glossy Ibis, Goldcrest, Goldfinch, Golden Eagle, Golden Oriole, Goshawk, Great Grey Shrike, Great Reed Warbler, Great Snipe, Great Tit, Great White Egret, Greenfinch, Greenshank, Green Sandpiper, Grey Heron, Grey Plover, Grey Wagtail, Griffon Vulture, Gull-billed Tern Hawfinch, Hobby, Honey Buzzard, Hooded Crow, Hoopoe, House Martin, House Sparrow Icterine Warbler, Imperial Eagle Jay Kentish Plover, Kestrel, Kingfisher Lanner Falcon, Lesser Black-backed Gull, Lesser Grey Shrike, Lesser Whitethroat, Levant Sparrowhawk, Levantine Shearwater, Linnet, Little Bittern, Little Crake, Little Egret, Little Grebe, Little Owl, Little Ringed Plover, Little Stint, Long-legged Buzzard Mallard, Marsh Harrier, Marsh Sandpiper, Meadow Pipit, Mediterranean Gull, Melodious Warbler, Minaculated Lark, Mistle Thrush, Montagus Harrier, Moorhen, Mute Swan Nightingale, Nightjar, Night Heron, Northern Gannet, Northern Wheatear Olivaceous Warbler, Olive Tree Warbler, Orphean Warbler, Osprey, Oystercatcher Pallid Swift, Peregrine Falcon, Pied Flycatcher, Purple Heron Raven, Red Knot, Red-backed Shrike, Red-footed Falcon, Red-rumped Swallow, Red-throated Pipit, Redstart, Reed Warbler, Ringed Plover, Robin, Rock Bunting, Rock Partridge, Rock Sparrow, Rock Thrush, Ruff, Rufous Bush Chat, Rufous Bush Robin

Saker Falcon, Sand Martin, Sandwich Tern, Sardinian Warbler, Scops Owl, Sedge Warbler, Shag, Short-toed Eagle, Short-toed Lark, Short-toed Treecreeper, Siberian Stonechat, Skylark, Sombre Tit, Song Thrush, Spanish Sparrow, Sparrowhawk, Spotted Flycatcher, Squacco Heron, Starling, Stonechat, Subalpine Warbler, Swallow Tawny Owl, Tawny Pipit, Teal, Temminck's Stint, Tengmalm's Owl, Thrush Nightingale, Tree Creeper (Certhia brachydactyla), Tree Pipit, Turnstone, Turtle Dove Whiskered Tern, White-backed Woodpecker, Whitethroat, White Wagtail, Whitewinged Black Tern, Willow Warbler, Winchat, Woodchat Shrike, Wood Pigeon, Wood Sandpiper, Wood Warbler, Wren, Wryneck Yellow-legged Gull, Yellowlegged Herring Gull, Yellow Wagtail Zitting Cisticola

Scops owl their distinctive 'beep' is often heard but they're rarely seen

BOOKS If you like Greece you might enjoy reading some of these books: The Greek Myths, by Robert Graves. Definitive interpretation of the classic myths, from the Creation to Odysseas. Tales of Greek Heroes, by Roger Lancelyn Green. A slightly different interpretation and an easier read, but not as detailed. The Living Past of Greece, by A.R. and Mary Burn. Fascinating to compare the classical myths with sites that actually exist and can be visited today. The Greek Adventure, by David Howarth. Sometimes amusing, sometimes horrific, but a very readable account of the Greek War of Independence. Greek Entanglement, by Brigadier E.C.W. Myers, CBE, DSO. A very readable true account of how a small group of volunteers parachuted in to occupied Greece. An interesting follow up to Captain Corelli, as is Memories of a Mountain War, by Kenneth Matthews, a master at the famous Anargyros College before the war, where later taught John Fowles. The Magus, John Fowles classic tale of passion, pretence and intrigue. Inspired by experiences as a master at the Anargyros College on Spetses? Captain Corellis Mandolin, by Louis de Bernires. A classic love story set on Kefalonia during the Second World War and the subsequent Greek Civil War. Read it and shed a tear for the heroine, for the heroes, for humanity. The Consolation Prize, by Irene Livadopoulos. Touching insight into the Greek way of life and the soul-searching of xenitia - being away from Greece. My Family and Other Animals, by Gerald Durrell. His childhood adventures on Corfu and the strange creatures and stranger characters he encountered. The Mockery Bird. Another great story from Gerald Durrell, albeit with a serious message, this time set on a mythical island which is very Greek in character.

BUSES Somewhat mythical but buses do exist Ive seen one! Catching one, however, can be like catching a fish a lot of waiting and only sometimes do you catch one (but you shouldve seen the size of it!) From Argostoli you can get to a variety of places. You may even be able to get back. However, youll need to set off fairly early if you want to see or do much while youre there as, in the rural areas, buses rarely run much after 17:00 and the last buses from Argostoli tend to leave around 14:00 Where they exist, bus stops usually have printed on the sign otherwise, just put your hand out as the bus approaches. Fares are fairly inexpensive but the service can be erratic. Check return times before you set off and again when you reach your destination and have enough money for a taxi back... just in case the bus doesnt turn up. For bus timetables, look on the boards at the bus stop, or the fiction section of the local library. Times vary according to the season and the whim of the drivers who incidentally are very skilled. They can speak on a mobile phone in one hand while smoking with the other not that they do that while they are driving! On Kefalonia the summer bus service usually starts around the middle of May / early June and runs through until early October. The service tends to start and end with little, if any, prior notice. For more information, contact KTEL Kefalonia on (0030) 26710 22281 or have a look at GoingGreek.info - bus timetable

CAPTAIN CORELLI'S CEPHALONIA General Metaxa, the Ithaka-born Greek dictator, said Okhi (No) to fellow fascist Mussolinis request to occupy Greece. And thereby ensured a place in history. A small, undeveloped nation - Greece - inflicted the first defeat of World War II on the all-conquering AXIS forces. However, they returned in numbers: on 30 September, 1941, Kefalonia was occupied by the Italians. However, a significant number of troops didnt support their fascist leader and, in August 1943, German troops reinforced the island. A month later Italy surrendered to the Allies. Having surrendered, over 9,000 Italian soldiers were massacred by the Nazis on Kefalonia. The Italian war memorial can be found just outside Argostoli on the hill above Katovothres and next to the Catholic church on Lithostroto theres a small museum dedicated to the soldiers. Inspired by these inhumane true events, and the dangerously derelict remains of Farsa, destroyed in the 53 earthquake, Louis de Bernires Captain Corellis Mandolin is a literary master-piece. The film, although not as well received, is undoubtedly a beautiful advert for the island of Kefalonia, where it was filmed. What wasnt destroyed during the war was mostly razed to the ground during the devastating earthquake of 1953, little is left of Corellis Kefalonia. Fiskardo is famous for its old buildings and Assos, too, has some impressive remains. The old, abandoned village of Farsa, one of the sources of inspiration for the book, can be seen above the 'new' village of the same name. Old Skala has been largely lost to new tourist villas but the remains of old Valsamata still stand. Look very carefully and you might see the faded sign for the barber's shop on the wall of one of the buildings. Quite substantial remains can be seen at Harakti, on the mountain road between Poros and Sami, and at Kambitsata, in the hills outside Poros. The settlement of Asprogerakas, on the hill track from old Skala to Poros, although reconstructed after the earthquake, gives a good feel of a traditional hill village, as do the small settlements, such as Plagia, on the east coast road from Agia Efimia to Fiskardo.

Between Argostoli and Lassi, on the Piccolo Yiro, you can find the Red Villa (almost next to the recently restored Agion Theodorion lighthouse at Fanari) where many Italian soldiers were imprisoned before being walked up the coast. At the first road junction there is a rocky pit on the right. Peer between the green railings and the bushes and you will see a plaque on the wall, in Greek and Italian. This is where a number of Italians soldiers were massacred. Turn left at this junction and follow the lane as it winds up the hill and you will come to the Italian War Memorial. Continue along this road and youll come out by the old harbour in Argostoli. If you want to check out the main locations used in the film: Sami: the main set was built around the Kastro Hotel. Recreated as wartime Argostoli, the inspiration was the beautiful Venetian-inspired Corfu Town. AntiSamos beach: where the landing craft came ashore and where the Italian encampment was based. Dikhalia village: the main set for the village was built on the site of Dikhalia, between Sami and AntiSamos, an original village lost during the earthquake. Here, in the film, were the houses of Dr Iannis and Drossoula . Paleo Vlakhata, Karavomylos: here, inland from the duck pond, the firing squad scene was shot, and where the andartes (resistance) gathered arms. Agia Fanentes Monastery: high in the hills above Sami, this is the location for the opening and closing festival scenes. Sia Monastery: the love scene between Corelli and Pelagia was filmed at this old monastery near Myrtos. Myrtos beach: where La Skala, Captain Corellis musical ensemble, frolicked with the imported tarts and where Corelli detonated the old Turkish mine. Horgota beach: Mandras beach, where he fished and where he threw Pelagia in to the sea from the jetty. The jetty was built for the film but was left intact when the crew departed.

CAR HIRE Hiring a car is an excellent way to discover the hidden charms of Kefalonia for yourself, at your own pace. There are many car hire companies on the island but during the peak season it can be difficult to obtain a car, especially if you want a particular type for specific dates and booking well in advance is essential if you want a 7 or 9 seater, or an automatic. You can normally pre-book a car through your holiday company (if travelling on a package holiday) or through your travel agent. Bear in mind that the first holiday brochures are printed well over a year in advance and car hire prices have to be calculated based on the current year's demand and predicted demand for the year ahead. Demand for holidays, and car hire, may increase or decrease, at little or no notice, due to any number of circumstances such as the mortgage rate, the exchange rate, the price of fuel, terrorism, the weather in the UK, whatever. Prices in resort are based upon actual current demand and may be higher, or lower, than prices quoted a year earlier in the UK. The advent of the internet has made it much easier to pre-book direct but, before you commit yourself to any booking, read and understand the contractual details and know what is included in the price and what isnt. If the details aren't clear it might be best to look elsewhere. Pre-booked cars, whether booked over the internet, on the telephone or via your tour company or travel agent, may seem a bargain but dont always include, for example, the same insurance as youd receive if you booked in resort, even if you booked the same car with the same company. If you're picking the car up at Kefalonia airport and returning it to the airport make sure the model you book is big enough not only for all your party but also for their luggage. Trying to fit five people and all their luggage into a Seicento isn't a great idea (and invalidates the insurance). As a general rule, the minimum age for hiring a car is 23 years, 25 for larger cars and 4x4 vehicles. You'll need to have held a valid, full, licence for at least a year.

If you don't have a licence issued by an EU member state (e.g. UK) you'll need a valid licence and a valid International Driving Permit. Beware scams! If you arrive in resort and find that youve left your driving licence at home then holders of a UK licence can obtain confirmation of entitlement to drive by contacting the DVLA by phone, the least expensive option is usually an OTE phonecard. After going through an automated menu ("Press button for") youll be speaking to a living person and they are invariably helpful and quick. There is a small charge (around five pounds sterling) so youll need a credit card and be sure to give them whatever details are on your licence as, if the info you provide doesnt tally with the info they have on file, they wont fax the confirmation to your chosen car hire company. The DVLA phone number is (0044) 870 240 0009. Residents of Northern Ireland call (0044) 845 402 4000 Note: in Greece it is now illegal to smoke in a car if children (under age 13) are present.

Traffic on a roundabout has to stop and give way to traffic entering the roundabout. Donkeys have right of way on Greek roads.

CATS & DOGS Cats are as much a part of Greece as ouzo and retsina similarly, some people love them and some dont. Tavernas generally tolerate customers feeding scraps to stray cats and dogs but dont totally approve of it. Although fairly tame, most are not owned by anyone but are semi-wild. Therefore they are not neutered and litters of kittens and puppies are common. Its also common for these cats and dogs to carry fleas and diseases so, if you want to feed them, do it away from your accommodation and dont allow animals into your room. If scratched or bitten seek medical attention as soon as possible. CHEMISTS / PHARMACY The farmakeion, or pharmacy, usually has a red or green cross outside. Open (in summer) from 09:00 until 21:00, six days a week, they may close for siesta in the afternoon and will be closed on the major festival days. Almost invariably, one of the pharmacists will speak at least some English and, for minor health problems, its often worth calling in to a pharmacy before consulting a doctor as some drugs only available on prescription in the UK are available over the counter in Greece. However, for e.g. codeine youll need a prescription from a doctor in Greece. On Kefalonia youll find a farmakeion in: Agia Efimia, Argostoli, Fiskardo, Lixouri, Peratata, Poros, Sami, Skala, Vlakhata (Lourdas) CINEMAS Cinemas in rural Greece are a real treat usually open air (and only open in the summer), it doesnt matter whats showing, the cinema can be more entertaining than the film chances are, bats fly across the screen as huge birds of prey spot their next meal from high above you. If youve never been to an open-air cinema, experience Greek life as it was before the TV, DVD and internet at Sine Anny, Harokapou 16, Argostoli off the main square, a few blocks up from where the ferry to Lixouri docks. For program information, phone or fax: (0030) 26710 25880

CURRNCY XCHANG As of January, 2002, the Euro replaced the drachma as the legal unit of currency in Greece and, at some stage; youll need to exchange your national currency, e.g. pounds sterling or dollars, etc, for euros as personal cheques drawn on foreign bank accounts cant be cashed in Greece. Greece is a very safe country for visitors and many people prefer to bring cash and then change it in resort as this reduces the commission charges. Travellers Cheques remain one of the safest ways to travel with money. In the UK you can buy these either in sterling or in euros. If you buy euro Travellers Cheques then you buy them at whatever the exchange rate is at that exchange office on that day, i.e. the actual exchange between pounds and euros occurs when you buy them in the UK. If you buy sterling Travellers Cheques then the exchange between pounds and euros occurs when you cash them in Greece. If buying euro notes or euro Travellers Cheques in the UK, the Post Office usually offers a better rate than travel agents or banks. Generally, the exchange rate in Greece is slightly better than in the UK. Travellers Cheques and bank notes can be exchanged at banks in Greece, also at the main post office in Argostoli and at various exchange offices in resort (usually tour / car hire offices). If youre staying in a hotel you will probably be able to change money at reception. There are no exchange facilities at Kefalonia airport. Wherever you change your money in Greece it is the norm for the daily bank exchange rate to apply and the standard bank charge of 2% commission (we all have to earn a living). The actual bank exchange rate is liable to vary from day to day and may vary very slightly from bank to bank. Visa and MasterCard cards are widely, but not universally, accepted in Greece (American Express less so). You should be able to use them to pay for car hire and tours; some tavernas will also accept payment via credit or debit card, as will some garages and some shops. Not all peripteros (cigarette kiosks) will accept them for cigarettes but the Duty Paid shop at the airport will. You can also use most credit and debit cards to withdraw cash from your bank account via ATMs, located as follows: Argostoli, Fiskardo, Lixouri, Poros, Sami, Skala.

CUSTOMS & TRADITIONS The Greeks are a very hospitable and laid-back people who want visitors to their beautiful country to enjoy themselves. To avoid giving offence, respect their customs and beliefs, which are long held and hard won. Greece is famous for its pretty churches and beautifully decorated monasteries, many of which are open to visitors. Remember and respect the dress code: shoulders, elbows and knees (and tummies) should be covered - men should wear long trousers and women should wear a dress or skirt covering the knees, or trousers (NO shorts and T-shirt!). Topless is tolerated on the beaches and certain beaches are unofficially OK for going au naturelle - please dont do either anywhere near a holy place, no matter how isolated it appears, as this offends the locals and arrests arent unknown. Only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun, Greeks take siesta between 14:00-17:00. As they tend to work very long hours during the summer theyll be more hospitable if they arent disturbed during this time and, without a doubt, fellow guests wont appreciate being disturbed late at night or in the early hours. If you want two of anything, dont do a V for Victory sign as its an insult even worse is a hi-five. Known as moundza, they date back to the days when citizens would daub the faces of criminals with mud (and other such things) as they were led through the streets. Maybe that explains the Royal wave well, the Queen is married to a Greek. Oh, and if you want a strong black Greek coffee without sugar, ask for it sketto, not skatah thats something associated with the tooaletta. In the UK we might have been brought up to show our appreciation of a meal by not leaving any food on our plate. In Greece its normal to leave a little, it shows your host that their hospitality was sufficient and that youre not still hungry. Similarly, dont drain your glass unless you want no more to drink.

CYCLING Its great fun freewheeling down the mountains, the wind in your hair, the scent of pine trees fresh in the air but Kefalonia is very mountainous and it can be hard, hot work going up the hills and frequent stops for liquid refreshment are essential! Due to the mountains, the heat and the comparatively large size of Kefalonia (for a Greek island), demand for and supply of bikes for hire is very limited. For serious cyclists theres Panbike at 72 Lithostroto, Argostoli phone (0030) 26710 27118 / 6944 784080. The owner, Pantelis Ioannidis, is a former cycling champion of Greece and organises the annual International Cycling Tour of Kefalonia, usually held in early April. More information at Panbike.gr. Organised tours also available from hellenic-cycling.com; at the moment the website information is in Dutch and German only. DIVING There are some good dive opportunities on and around Kefalonia, including the wreck of HMS Perseus and Melissani Lake (although for those booking well in advance is necessary). Aquatic World, based in Agia Efimia, dive in various locations: www.aquatic.gr (0030) 26740 62006 Dive-In-Kefalonia, based in Lassi, also offer various dive sites: www.diveinkefalonia.com (0030) 26710 27589 Fiskardo Nautical & Environmental Club also offer diving opportunities: www.fnec.gr (0030) 26740 41081

DOCTORS & DENTISTS The Greek word for doctor is (pronounced 'yatros') and this, and a red cross, will normally be displayed outside the surgery / medical centre. Surgery hours are normally 08:00 - 13:00, Monday - Friday. The doctor may be private or may be I.K.A. (Greek N.H.S.). Either way, expect to pay for your consultation and prescription. The European Health Insurance Card (E111 replacement) works well enough for major injuries / illness but not for minor ailments and injuries and is no substitute for adequate travel insurance. Private doctors can usually accept payment by credit/debit card and may be able to liaise directly with your travel insurance company, if needs be. If you have to pay and then reclaim, be sure to keep receipts for all your expenses, including prescriptions and taxi fares, etc. I.K.A. doctors usually have no facility to accept credit cards or medical insurance so will need to be paid in cash, getting a receipt may be a problem. In the event of minor ailments and injuries it's often worth visiting the pharmacy before the doctor as pharmacists are able to dispense a wider variety of medicines than in the U.K. On Kefalonia you should be able to consult a doctor in: Argostoli, Lixouri, Skala, Poros, Sami and, possibly, Agia Efimia and Fiskardo. Pharmacies can be found in Argostoli, Lixouri, Poros, Skala, Sami and Vlakhata (near Lourdas). In the event of serious illness / accident, or when the doctor / medical centre is closed, there is an I.K.A. (N.H.S.) hospital in Argostoli which has a 24 hour, 7 day emergency department, where you will be treated for a very small fee (three five euros). In serious cases they may require your medical insurance details or European Health Insurance Card (but this can usually be sorted out later). Although there are a couple of ambulances on the island they will usually only respond to call outs from a doctor or the police and it's often easier and quicker to make your own way to the hospital, e.g. by taxi. Emergency dental treatment can be obtained during the morning at the hospital in Argostoli or at private dental practices (e.g. in Argostoli or Poros), normally during the hours of 08:00 - 14:00, Monday - Friday. Some dentists are open evenings and may be able to make a special appointment in the event of severe pain.

DRIVING IN GREECE Driving in rural Greece is like stepping back in time: the roads uncrowded, the scenery unspoiled. Driving is a joy, not a chore. Here's a short guide on how to enjoy exploring Kef by car: Most obviously: drive on the right most Greeks do! Road signs are usually in Greek and English - but are likely to be hidden behind a bush or a sign for someone's taverna. Road maps look pretty and, sometimes, bear some resemblance to reality. Getting lost is all part of the fun and a great way to find some lovely places you didn't know existed. The locals are friendly so, if you do get lost, just ask for directions. Petrol is currently a little more expensive than in the UK, petrol stations tend to be pretty plentiful. Usually they are open seven days a week from 08:00 to 21:00 in low season, later in high season. Petrol pumps are rarely self-service, you'll probably find an old guy sat there and, when you pull in, he'll send his wife out to serve you. Petrol is called venzini and the attendants usually speak enough English to get by. They will automatically go for the unleaded pump and petrol is bought by the euro, not by the litre or gallon, so just ask for, e.g. ten euros of venzini rather than ten litres - it saves messing about with loose change. Some petrol stations accept credit cards, but not all, so have enough cash available. Greek police are pretty laid back but, nevertheless, road rules exist and are, sometimes, enforced. Parking restrictions do apply, even if most Greeks seem to ignore them. In some places yellow lines exist and it's best not to park on them - about once a summer the police will come round and ticket the cars and you never know when that once-a-summer will be! Apart from that, the general rules are not to park on private property and not to obstruct the coaches. Some accommodation is situated up narrow little lanes that look like farm tracks and coaches need a wide turning circle to get round the tight corners. If a plane can't take off because a coach couldnt get to the airport the police tend to be more upright. Driving laws are similar to the UK wearing seat belts is compulsory in cars, crash helmets are compulsory on scooters and motorbikes, drink driving is illegal (the legal limit is slightly lower than in the UK).

On-the-spot fines apply for those contravening the law. When driving, always carry your driving licence and your copy of the hire agreement (contract). In the event of an accident (of any kind): dont move the vehicles, call a doctor if required, also call the hire company and the police - they will come to the scene and assess the situation (get a copy of the police report). Render any assistance you are qualified to give to any injured parties. Take photos of the scene of the accident, particularly the positions of the vehicles involved. Apart from driving on the right, the main difference in Greece is at roundabouts. In the UK, when approaching a roundabout you stop and give way to traffic on the roundabout. In Greece, traffic on a roundabout has to stop and give way to traffic entering the roundabout from the right. On Kefalonia there are few roundabouts you're likely to come across but they do exist: on the main south coast road in to Argostoli there are three roundabouts and the main square in Argostoli is technically a roundabout, although as it's square and not round some people (even the locals) don't recognise it as a roundabout... So, it's safest not to assume right-of-way is the same as it would be in the UK. For example: donkeys have right of way on Greek roads. Many road junctions aren't marked with white lines and, even where there are white lines, at any junction it's safest to slow down and be prepared to let the other guy go first. One-way streets exist in Argostoli, Skala, Poros, etc and, during the evenings, some streets are pedestrianised, e.g. Skala main street from the Church down to the main square and the square in Poros. You may notice that the locals tend to drive towards the centre of the road, probably because in many places there are no pavements. In some ways, Kefalonia is like a National Park: goats, cows, pigs, chickens - and humans - are liable to wander out from behind a bush and across the road at will - often just around a blind bend. Of course, they don't have lights on at night. When you're out exploring you might notice road signs warning you to beware of deer. There aren't any wild deer but when they made the road signs, they didn't have any pictures of goats. Welcome to Greece!

DUTY FREE Duty Free no longer exists for travel within the EU but you'll find Duty Paid shops at most airports in Greece. As most of the airports tend to be quite small youll find the Duty Paid shops are somewhat smaller than at your UK departure airport. Nevertheless, you should be able to buy the more popular wines, spirits, cigarettes and perfumes. Cigarettes have the price stamped on the packet and will cost the same everywhere in Greece but you may be able to buy some other items less expensively in resort, or in the main town, than at the airport. It may also be more convenient to buy locally and pack your bargains away securely before getting to the airport. The Duty Paid shops normally accept payment by credit/debit card. Provided they are for your own personal consumption, the number of cigarettes you can take back in to the UK is limited only by the airline weight restrictions for your baggage. ELECTRICITY Greek electricity comes out of the wall at 220/230 volts so you can run your U.K. hair dryer, CD player and re-charge your mobile 'phone, camcorder, etc, although youll almost certainly require a continental adaptor (usually available locally). As Greece has few natural power-generating resources electricity is expensive when you go out turn off non-essential lights and ensure the cooker and the airconditioning (where applicable) is turned off and any mozzie machines, etc, unplugged.

EARTHQUAKES Greece is the most earthquake-prone country in Europe and Kefalonia is particularly liable to experience earthquakes, lying just to the east of a major tectonic fault line where the European and Aegean plates meet at a slip boundary, similar to the more infamous San Andreas Fault. Earthquakes have been a feature of Kefalonias life history and the famous holein-the-roof of Melissani cave was caused by earthquake activity. Bittlestones team propose that Odysseus' Ithaka was actually the present-day Palliki peninsular, once separated from Kefalonia by the narrow Strabo's Channel and long since in-filled by earthquake debris. To date, scientific analysis of the material in Strabo's Channel hasn't ruled this out. One of the most destructive earthquakes to hit Kefalonia occurred between 09 August 12 August, 1953, during which period the island was struck by a series of four major quakes and numerous smaller ones. At 11:24 local time the island was hit by an earthquake of magnitude of 7.2 on the Richter scale, according to some measurements. The epicentre was almost directly beneath the southern tip of the island and the plate displacement raised the southern end of the island by some 60 cm (2'), making the sea mills at Katovothres redundant and stabilising the famous moving rock at Kounopetra. Some 600 of the 125,000 or so islanders were killed. The toll could have been far higher but many had noticed strange occurrences, such as the water levels in the wells rising and falling, and were camped out in olive groves. Virtually all of the characterful old stone buildings on the island, constructed during Venetian and then British rule, were destroyed, save for the Fiskardo area in the north of the island. Life on the island prior to the quakes had not been easy and many islanders existed at subsistence level from agriculture and fishing. The devastation was so complete that around 100,000 islanders emigrated following the earthquake, mainly to America, Australia and South Africa.

Ghosts of the old grandeur haunt hillsides around the island, only slowly fading away. Skala, rebuilt on the Mi'Abeli area near the sea, is slowly disappearing among newly raised tourist villas. Old Farsa, a source of inspiration for de Bernires, may be resurrected 'as was' above the new village. In old Valsamata the faded paintwork proclaiming the barber's shop is vaguely legible after all these years. Substantial remains still stand in Harakti, Pyrgi, and Kampitsata, outside Poros. Following the earthquake international aid promptly arrived, first in practical terms and then in the re-building process. Assos was charmingly rebuilt almost entirely due to the generosity of the French. Koukoumelata's reconstruction was funded by the Vergoti's, an ex-patriot family who had made their fortune in the shipping industry in America. Curiously re-modelled in the style of a Swiss village, the only stipulation was that the village be well-kept. And it still is. Elsewhere re-construction had to be more practical and, out of necessity, characterless concrete cubes superseded centuries old stonework. The blandness of the buildings is unseen amidst the abundant natural beauty all around. Despite the fact that earthquakes cannot be predicted with any accuracy, a denied 'prediction' was irresponsibly circulated in the press that a devastating earthquake would hit Kefalonia on July 30, 2008. The only devastation was to the local economy as Greek tourists were conspicuous by their absence. Following the 1953 earthquake, building regulations were changed to factor-in earthquakes and all new constructions have to be reinforced with steel and be capable of withstanding major earthquakes. Earthquakes are a regular feature of life on Kefalonia and are usually over before realisation occurs. On 14 August, 2003 fifty years and a day after the Kefalonia earthquake a strong earthquake hit nearby Levkas. Although fairly substantial damage occurred, no one was killed or seriously injured and no buildings were destroyed. Kefalonia and Ithaka were hardly affected.

In November, 2003, a quake of magnitude 5.3 shook the island, causing only minor damage in Argostoli. In September, 2005, a 4.9 quake occurred in the sea close to Lixouri. Again, only minor damage occurred. On 27 August, 2007 a 5.1 quake occurred at sea just to the west of Kefalonia. No serious damage was recorded. The current tourist boom, seemingly following from the success of Captain Corelli's Mandolin, has rejuvenated the island's economy and many migrs, and/or their children, have/are returning to the island, harvesting the benefits of their heritage and investing in its future.

FEASTS & FESTIVALS An important part of Greek life, Kefalonia is richly blessed with festivals, to such an extent that, during July and August, there may be at least one every day somewhere on the island. The main festivals are: 01 January - Agios Vassillis Saint Vasillis is the traditional Greek Father Christmas and Greek Christmas is traditionally celebrated on 01 January, although not to the extent Christmas is celebrated in the UK. It is still largely a family and religious occasion although a Westernised, commercial version of Christmas, celebrated on 25 December, is fast making inroads into the Greek way of life. 06 January - Epiphany The Blessing of the Waters, when the hob-goblins are banished back to the underworld. Celebrated widely at harbours and lakes throughout Greece and the Greek world, e.g. at Argostoli and Lixouri on Kefalonia. The priest throws a cross in to the water and the young men of the village dive to retrieve it. 25 March - Independence Day Celebrates the day Greece finally became independent of the Ottoman Empire. Variable - Easter Easter, not Christmas, is the most important event in the Greek Orthodox Christian year and the Easter period is widely celebrated throughout Greece and the Greek world. Its a very traditional social occasion, often celebrated as a communal village feast with roast lamps on the spit. As the Orthodox Church use a different calendar to the western Churches the date of Greek Easter doesnt usually coincide with Easter in the UK:

Easter Sunday Greece 24/04/11 15/04/12 05/05/13 20/04/14 12/04/15 01/05/16 16/04/17 08/04/18 28/04/19 19/04/20 UK 24/04/11 08/04/12 31/03/12 20/04/14 05/04/15 27/03/16 16/04/17 01/04/18 21/04/09 12/04/20

01 May - Festival of the Flowers / May Day Wild flowers are gathered and woven into wreaths, then hung above the front door until the following year to bring good fortune. In some towns and villages, e.g. Poros, flower festivals are held where locally-made wreaths are displayed, usually with a small prize for the best ones. 15 August - Assumption & Festival of the Snakes The Assumption celebrates the Virgin Mary. On Kefalonia the Festival of the Snakes, in Markopoulo, is a very big celebration attracting visitors from around the world. The main celebration is on the evening of 14 August, the religious ceremony on 15 August. A similar festival is held at the same time in the village of Arginia. 16 August - Agios Gerasimos Massively popular with a huge celebration at the Monastery of Ag. Gerasimos on the afternoon and evening of 15 August and the morning of 16 August. 20 October - Agios Gerasimos Second festival of Gerasimos, patron saint of Kefalonia.

28 October - Okhi Day The day General Ioannis Metaxas, Ithaka-born Prime Minister of Greece, said No to Mussolinis plan to overrun Greece. The subsequent Italian invasion was repulsed by the small Greek army - the first defeat inflicted upon the fascist during WWII. 25 December - Kristouyenna Christmas Day, very much a family occasion. For more information see GoingGreek.info - Kefalonia News

The village Easter feast: although lamb is popular it's not the once-a-week Sunday special as roast beef is in the UK; rather, it's a special Easter treat.

FERRIES For the adventurous explorer, ferry boats are the traditional way to travel. They are reliable, popular and still comparatively inexpensive. Kefalonia is connected to mainland Greece via ferries from Patras, Kyllini and Astakos, while local ferries connect Kefalonia with Ithaka, Levkas and Zakynthos. Ferries from Italy call into Sami during high season. Theres also a local service that connects Argostoli with Lixouri. In low season the service is hourly, in high season (June - September) every half an hour. Queue on the quayside, reverse on, leave the car on the car deck and either sit in the airconditioned lounge or out in the sun. Pay on board, drive straight off. The crossing takes almost thirty minutes and is inexpensive. Generally, the ships name will usually be spelt in Greek and English, e.g. / Penelope. However, the pronunciation may be different, e.g., the F/B is pronounced Pinny-loppy, not Penelopee (Penelope). The Greek word for port or harbour is (limani). For safety and security, identification may be required before ferry tickets can be purchased.

Ferry company phone numbers: Four Island Ferries Kefalonia - Ithaka - Meganissi Levkas Tel: (0030) 210 412 2530 Fax: (0030) 210 411 7066 Ionian Ferries Poros Kyllini Argostoli Lixouri Patras Tel: (0030) 210 324 9997 Fax: (0030) 210 331 9739 Ionios Meganissi Shipping Kefalonia Ithaka Meganissi Levkas Tel: (0030) 26450 31805 Strintzis Ferries Poros Kyllini Ithaka Sami Patras Tel: (0030) 210 422 5000 Fax: (0030} 210 417 7807 Taxiarchis Ferries Argostoli Lixouri Pessada, Kefalonia Agios Nikolaos, Zakynthos Sami Ithaka Astakos Tel: (0030) 26710 91280 Fax: (0030) 26710 91286 For website links see GoingGreek.info - ferry timetables

FIRES Large parts of Greece are still forested and the long, hot and dry summers leave the vegetation tinder-dry. Bush fires are not uncommon. Often they are relatively small but big fires do occur, sometimes with deadly consequences. During the summer of 2007 many fires raged throughout Greece, resulting in the death of at least 65 people. Kefalonia is still largely rural and pleasantly endowed with pine forests, including the native Kefalonia Fir Tree (Abies cephalonica). In July, 2007 a fire ripped through south-east Kefalonia from Poros to Skala and Katelios. Although no-one was seriously injured at least four homes were totally destroyed, along with crops and livestock, i.e. peoples livelihoods. On 27 August, 2009, Colonel Stergios Kotoulas was killed when his plane crashed while fighting a fire in Katelios. Please be very careful with BBQs and cigarettes, etc.

Olive grove on fire, Katelios, June 2007

FISHING Fishings a very popular pastime in the UK and a fair few people bring their rod and tackle with them on holiday. Fishing is also a popular pastime in Greece but Ive never come across any organised fishing trips. Nor have I come across any organised freshwater fishing sites and, on Kefalonia, there are no permanently flowing rivers and no fishable ponds. You may see locals fishing from the quayside in Argostoli and Poros, etc, but Greeks tend to go more for small boats and big nets rather than rod and line. There are any number of licensed fishing caiques but currently - its illegal to take out unregistered passengers. This is likely to change in the near future. Of course, it's possible to hire small motorboats and some people do manage to catch sizeable fish from the shore. If you do catch anything worth eating Im sure one of the local tavernas will be happy to cook it for you for a small charge. FRAPP Shaken or stirred, frapp is cool put a spoonful of instant coffee into a beaker, add sugar and milk according to taste, pour in a centimetre or so of cold water, seal the top and shake well. Or use an electric frapp mixer. Toss in a couple of ice-cubes and top up with chilled water. A Greek speciality, very refreshing on a hot summer day. GECKOS If youre lucky you might find a gecko or lizard in your room theyre pretty similar but geckos have the big, round eyes, pinky-brown skin and come out in the evening whereas lizards tend to be greener, slimmer and sun themselves during the day. They are totally harmless and Greeks think it lucky to have one in the house as they catch and eat flies.

GREECE At the beginning of time the Immortals, the gods and goddesses of Greece, fought against the Cyclops, the mighty one-eyed giants. With the aid of the Titans, the Immortals won and the Cyclops were banished. Zeus became ruler of all of the mortal world and chief among the gods. One of his brothers, Poseidon, ruled the oceans while another brother, Hades, ruled the under-world. Great civilisations came and went. While Minos was busy ruling Crete his wife, Persephae, was seducing a beautiful black bull, the mutant offspring was the mighty Minotaur. Every seven years the Athenians were forced to send the cream of their youth to Crete, never to be seen again. Theseus, lost son of the king of Athens, killed the beast and ran off with Minos daughter, Ariadne, only to leave her to Dionysios he who invented wine and travelled around the Greek world indulging in drunken orgies with his groupies. When the volcano on Santorini erupted the tidal wave wiped out the Minoan civilisation and mighty Mycenae picked up the crown. Mycenae was the kingdom of Agamemnon, his captive wife Klytaemnestra, her beautiful sister, Helen, and the man she was forced to marry, Menelaus, brother of Agamemnon. When Helen eloped with her true love, Paris, she left behind her daughter, Ermione, but took with her much of Menelaus treasure. The deep desire to re-unite Menelaus with Helen (or, maybe, with his wealth) led to the epic Trojan War. Eventually Mycenae defeated Troy but the long campaign led to Mycenaes demise. Two other great city-states emerged, each vying for supremacy: Sparta and Athens. Life for the people of Sparta was, well, spartan the leaders relied not upon great city walls for protection but upon the fighting prowess of the Spartans. Athens had dabbled with various types of leader, from dictator to democrat. One of the very greatest was Pericles, a very interesting character. The son of a leading aristocrat, he was a champion of democracy. A great orator, he led Athens to victory against the Persian invaders and after this he secured the finances, commissioned the great public works and built the classical city of Athens as we now know it. Then a new superpower emerged. Philip of Makedon defeated all the Greek city states and his son, the great Alexander, conquered virtually all the (then) known

world, from the Mediterranean into India. Upon his untimely death his massive empire split into three and the Ptolemies ruled Egypt until the death of Kleopatra. After Alexander the mighty Roman army came, saw and conquered the Greek world. Kleopatra tried to save Egypt from subjugation by seducing Julius Caesar. He was murdered by Brutus so she took Markos Antonis as her lover but his fleet was defeated at nearby Levkada and Kleopatra committed suicide rather than yield to Rome. Eventually the Roman Empire expanded so much that it became unmanageable and split in two, the Holy Roman Empire and the Eastern Empire, based in the small Greek town of Byzantion. Finally the Roman Empire disintegrated but the Byzantine Empire flourished for another seven hundred years until the fall of the city of Constantinople (as Byzantion was re-named, in honour of St. Constantine) to the Ottomans Turks, who renamed it Istanbul [probably a corruption of the Greek ee stin poli (to the city)] - the cry when the city was being attacked. The Ottomans occupied virtually all of mainland Greece and the islands. However, apart from short occupations, they couldnt hold the Ionian islands against the Venetians. The Ionian islanders probably fared better under the Venetians than their fellow countrymen did under the Turks, the 1821 War of Independence was fought to rid Greece of the rotting Ottoman empire. Only some thirty years later did the Ionian islands, by then administered by the British, achieve unification with the new Greek state. Having remained neutral during the First World War, Greece was forced to declare itself on the side of the Allies when invaded by Italy in 1943. The small Greek army inflicted the first defeat of the war upon the Axis troops and suffered brutal repression by Nazi Germany as a result. After the war a debilitating civil war erupted. The American-funded Marshall Plan effectively ended the civil war but the price was that, for many years, the Greek government had to get its decisions approved by America. In 1967 a right-wing military junta seized control from the democratically elected government and remained in power until 1974, when popular opinion forced free elections to be resumed. Since then the Greek government has regularly been involved in various allegations of sleaze and corruption just the kind of everyday scandal that happens in every free parliamentary democracy!

GREEK MAYBE TIME You might hear time referred to as, e.g. nine o'clock GMT - don't be confused, Greece isn't in the Greenwich Mean Time zone it's in the Eastern European Time (EET) zone. Hence Greece is two hours ahead of the UK. And about fifty years behind - which is part of its charm. Time keeping isn't a great priority in Greece and GMT humorously refers to Greek Maybe Time... maybe nine o'clock, maybe ten o'clock. Maybe today... maybe tomorrow... maybe next week. Maybe in three months. Its part of the relaxed Greek way of life and, until recently, few Greeks wore watches. Buses run to Greek Maybe Time, so be at the bus stop a good fifteen minutes before the scheduled time and be prepared to wait a good thirty minutes after. Ferries, on the other hand, tend to be pretty punctual. Like the UK, Greece adopts daylight saving hours so, in March, the clocks spring forward an hour and in October the clocks fall back an hour. These days the change-over days seem to coincide with the UK dates, thus Greece is always two hours ahead. Its a good idea to change the time on your watch during the flight and, if you have any other time sensitive devices, alter the time on those, too. I remember one couple who used their mobile phone as an alarm but had forgotten to change the time on it and missed a boat as a result. When you're connected to the 'net, this is a good site for checking the time in Greece: http://time.is/Greece

HEALTH & SAFETY Its great to visit different countries, to see different scenery, to experience a different lifestyle and to see the sun! Naturally, different countries have different cultures, values and standards and you have to take the rough with the smooth. This applies to all facets of life, including Health & Safety. Bear a few things in mind and you should have a safe and enjoyable holiday. Balconies Its great to have a balcony but, every year, someone suffers serious injury falling from a balcony so bear in mind that the balcony wall or railings are a retaining feature, not a seat nor a climbing frame. Beaches The sea, sand and sun are among the things that bring most of us to Greece but be aware of the potential dangers: There may or may not be a lifeguard, children and non-swimmers should always be supervised. Check if theres a flag warning system and, if so, check what the flags mean. Keep within your depth and always swim parallel to the shore, not out to sea. Avoid areas used for water-sports and dont swim at night, nor if the beach is deserted. Avoid alcohol and dont swim for at least one hour after eating. Dont forget the sun protection! Electrics If you have any problems with electrical items in your accommodation dont attempt repairs contact your tour company (if on a package holiday) or the owner. Fire In the event of a fire evacuate the building quickly but calmly. Alert other guests and neighbours by shouting FIRE. Be aware that what is a fairly simple route in the daylight may be more difficult in the dark. Dont smoke in bed and ensure that the cooker and appliances such as mozzie machines, irons, etc, are always switched off when not in use. Dont attempt to fight the fire unless you have to in order to evacuate.

Gas Gas appliances of any kind arent commonly found in tourist accommodation in Greece. If you have any kind of gas appliance in your room(s) always leave a nearby window open and turn off all gas appliances when not in use, and at night. Glass Safety glass is far less common in Greece than the UK, particularly in older properties. Take particular care when walking through patio doors, etc, and dont lean on, bang or slam glass doors and windows, etc. Greek Cross Code Greece has a wonderful variety of wildlife but, as there arent any zebras, Greek drivers ignore zebra crossings (where they exist). As we drive on the right in Greece (mostly), look Left, Right, Left before you step onto the road. Lifts Unlike the UK, not all lifts in Greece have internal doors. Stand away from the doors and dont allow children to use lifts unsupervised. Do not use lifts in the event of fire. Sights & Sites In ancient times Health & Safety meant praying and sacrificing to the gods not anti-slip flooring and endless audits. Since the classical period the land has been left pretty much to the ravages of time, nature and invaders. Uneven, crumbling paths and sheer drops are not uncommon. Supervise children, the elderly and infirm and dont take chances. Footwear with anti-slip soles is recommended for walking and exploring.

Swimming pools Check out the Pool Safety notices before using a pool. Pools rarely have a lifeguard on duty so children and non-swimmers should be supervised at all times. Always know which is the shallow end and never dive into a pool. Dont use pools under the influence of drink or drugs and observe the hours of use as cleaning chemicals may be pumped through the pools at night. Walking Take some water, a bit of cash and, ideally, a mobile phone and local contact phone numbers. Always tell someone where youre going and what time you expect to return. Wear something white at night / Take a torch In rural Greece illumination is mostly provided by the moon, stars and tavernas street lighting is something the townsfolk have. As are pavements, which are pretty rare out in the sticks. When you go out at night (or if youll be returning after dark), wear something white and/or take a torch give car drivers some chance to see you. Where you have to walk in the road, walk in single file on the left-hand side of the road so you can see oncoming traffic.

HMS PERSEUS At 22:00 on the night of 6 December, 1941, HMS Perseus, a British Parthian-class submarine on patrol in the Ionian Sea, hit an Italian mine and sank. All the listed crew were lost. And another Kefalonia legend was born. Local fishermen from Mavrata rescued a British sailor, 31 year old Leading Stoker John Capes, just off the coast near Katelios and the local population hid him from the Italian and Nazi occupying forces, in various village houses around Kefalonia, for eighteen months until he was able to escape back to the UK. On return to the UK, Capes story was largely discounted as he wasn't on the crew list for the Perseus. According to Capes, he had missed his ship in Alexandria and was hitching a lift back to Blighty on the Perseus when it sank. Although the submarines were equipped with escape apparatus it was generally believed that no-one could survive such an incident. According to some sources he was awarded the British Empire Medal. Capes died in 1985, aged 75. In 1997 a team of Greek divers led by Kostas Thoktarides discovered the wreck of the Perseus on the seabed, some 52m down, between Kefalonia and Zakynthos. The description Capes had provided matched the wreck, down to the rum flask he dropped at the bottom of the escape hatch, having taken one last swig before attempting his escape. Following Captain Corellis Mandolin there was talk of a Perseus film but, to date, nothing seems to have come of it. The wreck of HMS Perseus has been declared an official war grave, a memorial stands in Poros near the Hotel Anastazia. It may now be possible for experienced divers to undertake organised dives to the wreck, contact the local dive schools.

IONIAN ISLANDS The Ionian Islands, primarily consisting of (Kerkyra, a.k.a. Corfu) (Paxi, a.k.a. Paxos) (Levkada, a.k.a. Levkas) (Ithaki, a.k.a. Ithaca) (variety of spellings, usually Kefalonia) (Zakynthos, a.k.a. Zante) (Kythira, a.k.a. Cerigo) plus smaller near by islands (such as Anti-Paxi, Meganisi), are known in Greek as the (Eptanisa), literally the Seven Islands in the same way the as Dodecanese are the Twelve Islands (plus about 151 smaller islands). Corfu, Paxos, Levkas, Ithaka, Kefalonia & Zakynthos form a chain down the western coast of mainland Greece, and are a unit of the Greek administrative system, while Kythira, AntiKythira and some smaller islands round-about are geographically and administratively separate, being situated to the south of Greece between the Peloponnese (Pelops Island) and Crete. Im not sure how they came about the name Ionian Islands as Ionia refers to the ancient Greek settlement around Smyrna, present day Izmir, in what is now Turkey. The original Ionic settlers, according to Greek history, came from the Attica area (around Athens) and theres no known connection with the Eptanisa. The Ionian League, Ionian Revolt, Ionian School of philosophers, Ionic architecture and Ionic / Ionian variation of ancient Greek language relate to ancient Ionia, not the Ionian Islands.

INTERNET / INTERNET CAFS Just about everywhere on Kefalonia is now on ADSL and most towns and tourist resorts will have at least one internet caf where you can surf the web and use email. The maximum (theoretical) download speed you'll get on Kef is 24 Mbps, most likely it will be a bit less than 2 Mbps. As with all shared computers everywhere, its best not to use internet cafes for e.g. internet banking. On Kefalonia you should be able to find public internet access cafes in: Argostoli, Lassi, Lakithra, Lourdas, Katelios, Skala, Poros, Sami, Agia Efimia, Fiskardo, Assos, Lixouri, etc. A number of bars and some accommodations offer free Wi-fi internet access to customers / guests, free public Wi-fi access is planned in some areas of the island and may already be accessible in others.

ITHAKA Odysseus legendary homeland, Ithaka, is almost two very small islands: a high, narrow ridge makes them one. Largely untouched by package tourism (perhaps due to a lack of sandy beaches and an airport), and is a good destination for walkers and anyone interested in Greek mythology and/or tranquillity. Of particular interest may be the Odysseus sites the Grotto of the Nymphs (sometimes closed for safety reasons) and the Arethosa spring. Ancient Alalkomenae was declared the site of Odysseus castle when it was excavated by Schleimann, the great amateur archaeologist who discovered Troy and Mycenae. However, more recent archaeological finds suggest that his castle was more likely situated near Exogi, just outside Stavrs, where remains of