Kfs Study Material Unit II

7/24/2019 Kfs Study Material Unit II

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SINGLE JERSEY OR PLAIN FABRIC

A fabric in which the knitted loops are the same sort and meshed in the same manner

Single jersey is the simplest to knit and it can be produced either on circular or flat machines by means of

one set of needles which draw their loops to only one side of the fabric.

The fabric has one appearance on the face side and a different one on the reverse. The side on which the

straight parts of the stitches appear in V formation is called the face side (Technical Face and the reverse

side (Technical !ack has twin rows of opposed semi circles.

"lain is produced by single set of needles# drawing the loops away from the technical back and towards

the technical face side of the fabric.

$ts technical face is smooth# with the side limbs of the needle loops having the appearance of columns ofV%s in the &ales.

'n the technical back# the heads of the needle loops and the bases of the sinker loops form columns of

interlocking semicircles.

Derivatives of plain knit

"lain single jersey is the simplest weft knitted structure that it is possible to

produce on one set of needle."lain is the base structure of ladies% hosiery# fully fashioned knitwear.

The production rate is very high because of stitch simplicity and its cost is low

because of machine simplicity.

STRCTRE

Te!"ni!al Fa!e Te!"ni!al Ba!k

Grap"i!al Representation

Te!"ni!al Fa!e Te!"ni!al Ba!k

Ca# arran$e#ent

The needle cam race consists of


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) *learing *am

+ Stitch *am, -pthrow *am

&hich are vertically adjustable together for alteration of stitch length

/uard *am

0 1eturn *am2 /uard *am

The three sections of the sinker cam race are

3 1ace *am4 Sinker &ithdrawing *am

5 Sinker1eturn *am# which is adjustable in accordance with the stitch length.

6eedle actions

The knitting action can be e7plained as follows8). Rest position% The needle is in the rest position with the old loop in the hook of the needle.

+. T&!k Position ' the needle is raised and old loop is on the latch of the needle.,. Clearin$ position ' The needle is raised higher to clear the loop from the latch. The needle reached

at the top of the cam and old loop is on the stem of the needle.. Yarn Fee(in$ Position ' The needle is lowered with old loop new yarn is being fed to the open hook

of the needle.

0. Lat!" Closin$ position ' The needle is lowered further and the old loop closes the latch trapping thenew yarn inside the hook.

2. )no!k over position * loop for#in$+ ' the needle is lowered still further and old loop slides over the

trapped new yarn inside the hook# forming a new loop by completing the knitting cycle. 9nittingcycle is completed with the new loop in the hook of the needle.

T,E )NITTING ACTION

(a) T&!kin$ in the hook or rest position. The sinker is forward# holding down the

old loop whilst the needle rises from the rest position.

(b+ Clearin$-The needle has been raised to its highest position clearing the old:oop from its latch.


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(c+ Yarn fee(in$-The sinker is partially withdrawn allowing the feeder to present its yarn to the descending

needle hook and also freeing the old loop so that it can slide up the needle stem and under the open latchspoon.

(d )no!k%over. The sinker is fully withdrawn whilst the needle descends to knockover its old loop on the

sinker belly.

(e ,ol(in$%(o.n-The sinker moves forward to hold down the new loop in its throat whilst the needle risesunder the influence of the upthrow cam to the rest position where the head of the open hook just protrudes

above the sinker belly.

C"ara!teristi!s of Sin$le Jerse/ Fa0ri!

The loops have a Vshaped loop appearance on technical face side and show semicircular loops on

the technical back side.

!ecause of the side limbs of the loop on the face side# it feels smoother on face side than on the back

side. $t is thus not reversible# from the feel and appearance point of view. The interlocking semicircles at the technical back can be used to produce interesting effects if

alternate courses are knitted in different coloured yarns.

9nitted loops in plainknit fabrics tend to distort easily under tension which help to give a ;form

fitting% and ;comfort% due to property of elastic recovery.

$t has potential recovery of about < per cent in width after stretching.

$ts width shortens if the length is e7tended by tensions while the length shortens if width is stretched.

6ormally width way e7tensibility is appro7imately twice the lengthway e7tensibility.

$t is knitted on a single cylinder machine with a single set of latch needles.

The structures can be unroved from the course knitted last by pulling the ;needle loops% through from

technical back or from the course knitted first by pulling the ;sinker loops% through from the technical

face side. $f the unrela7ed plain knit fabric is kept flat on the surface# it curls upwards at the top and bottom and

backwards at the sides.

$ts production rate is very high because of stitch simplicity and its cost is low because of machinesimplicity (*apital cost also low and rate of production is high

The stitch length can be varied with cam setting giving more courses per unit length with short stitch

length and viceversa.

The properties such as rigidity# air permeability# weight per unit area# bursting strength changes with

the stitch length.

The fabric may appear thick or flimsy is the stitch length is reduced or increased.

Properties of Sin$le Jerse/

Simplest knit structure. Face side smooth and sheen.

!ack side rough and dull.

:ighter fabric.

=conomical.

=asily ravels at both the ends.

>ighly e7tensible in length and width.


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The fabric curls towards the face at the top and bottom and towards the back at the sides.

:addering is very common in these fabrics.

9nitted loops in plain knit fabrics tend to distort easily under tension which helps to give a form

fitting and comfort due to property of elastic.

Orna#entation1

Reasons

$ncrease the saleability

$ts start from yarn to fabric2et"o(s). >ori?ontal stripes @ different colour # feeders

+. Twist @ S B Twist,. Fancy yarn

. "iece yarn

0. "rinting

2. "lated jersey fabric @ + yarn from single feeder

DERI3ATI3ES

$n earlier @ single cam track and one type of needle are used in single jersey fabric

Today @ derive from various structure in single jersey fabric

Codification is carried out on using of sinker# needle and camNee(le1Three types of needles normally used8). :ow butt needle

+. >igh butt needle

,. *ombination of low high butt needles

Ca#

, types of cams normally used

Swing

Split cam

Culti track cam

2o(ifi!ation of sin$le 4erse/ str&!t&reThe modification of single jersey structure carried out by using knit# tuck and miss stitches for following

different combination

). 9nit and tuck+. 9nit and float

,. 9nit# tuck and float.

2e!"anis#

The following mechanism also used for to produce the different structures in single jersey fabric by using

basic stitches like knit# tuck and miss stitches

). "attern wheel

+. Culti step drum

,. "erforated rolls. *ontinuous tapes or bands

Str&!t&re 1

The following derivatives structures are produced

). :acoste

+. *ross @ tuck,. Satin

. 9nitted twill


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0. 9nops fabric (honey comb

2. "opcorn3. Dersey blister

4. Frency terry

5. Thick fleece

)


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SATIN * Cross % 2iss+

$ts combination of knit and float stitch

9nitting and floating takes place at every alternative course on everyneedle

*ourse ) @ 9nit and Float Stitch Alternatively

*ourse +. Float and 9nit Stitch Alternatively

PROPERTIES

/reater stability than *T

Structure is narrower

"roduction rate is reduced in to half the feeder

)NITTED T5ILL

iagonal lines of tuck stitches produced

-sed for four cam track

1epeat si?e is four

*ombinations of tuck and knit stitch

'ne tuck and , knit

)NOP FABRICS or ,ONEY CO2B

istribution of multiple tucks diagonally or staggered from through fabric

"roperties8Core tuck stitches causes @ fabric to pucker

/ive honey comb effects

1epeat si?e is )+ course wales


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POPCORNThe fabric is not balanced and a puckered effect is created.

The odd needle produced courses and even needle produced 2 coursesCultiple tuck produced elongated and inclined stitches# which cause curved effect in the fabric

Jerse/ 0lister Core of miss stitches

The repeat is five course and wales

>ence fabric is not balanced

Small stitches results in a blister or pucker effect


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Fren!" terr/

This structure is produced by laying @ in the yarn at feeder + and which undergo brushing process toraise the surface fibres

:aying @ in freEuency is less @ not crate thick fleece

Available as , or thread french terry in the market

Soft twisted coarse yarns are used

$t is manufactured on flat knitting machine

*onsists of tuck and miss structure on the back side

>igh /SC fabric

)ighly absorbent

imensional stability is high

ses

-sed in casual jackets# hats# sweaters# jogging bottomsJsweatpants# gym clothes# >ood.

T"i!k flee!e

$ncreasing the laying in freEuency considerably the fleece effect will increase

>eavier# thicker and e7pensive

"roduction rate slower than French terry


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Ri00e( effe!t

The structure is formed by incorporating more than one tuck stitches laterallyThe fabric is produced by altering the needle set out to two long neddles following two short needles.

1ibbed effect @ ,7,# 7# 7+# etc.#

Plaitin$

"laiting is accomplished by incorporating two different yarns simultaneously in to the knitted fabrics.ifferent yarn @ colour# fibre types# fineness# filamentJspun# softJhard

'ne yarn is face side

Another yarn is back side

PI6E OR SINGLE PI6E OR FRED PERRY *AIRTE7+

*ombination of tuck and knit stitch

DOBLE PI6E OR T,IC) PI6E *DOBLE AIRTE7+


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Properties-

Stretchability is low and elastic recovery is more than weft knit single jersey

Soft and resilient

6on 1eversible type

>igh drapability and good fall

/ood imensional stability

>igh shrinkage in natural fiber

ses

-sed for leisure wear manufacturing basically Cen%s# &omen%s and 9ids polo Tshirts -sed for manufacturing sports wear

BIRDS EYE

*ombination of knit and miss stitch

6ature of esign 8 + track design with course repeat

2OC) RIB


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5EFT LOC)NIT

CELLLAR BLISTER

3elo&r or pl&s" fa0ri!s

Fabric is manufactured by weft knitting techniEue

Soft twisted are used*ut or uncut piles are present on the surface of the fabric

Velour is a knitted fabric# allowing it to stretch.

$t combines the stretchy properties of knits such as spande7 with the rich appearance and feel of velvet

Properties

>igh stretchability and elastic recovery

Soft and resilient fabric


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&armth retention

6on reversible fabric

/ood drapability and fall

imensional stability is high

A!!or(ion fa0ri!

Accordion fabric is single jersey with the long floats held in place on the technical back by tuck stitches.

$t was originally developed using knit and miss pattern wheel selection. 6eedles reEuired tucking (if not

selected to knit were provided with an e7tra butt# in line with a tuck cam placed immediately after the

pattern wheel selection.

$n straight accordion# every odd needle was of this type# so every odd needle tucked when not selected to

knit.

Alternative accordion provides a better distribution of tuck stitchesK odd needles had a tuck butt position in

line with cams placed at odd feeders# and even needles had another butt position for cams at even feeders.&ith both these types of accordion# tuck stitches occur close together# causing distortion of face loops and

allowing unselected colours to ;grin% through between adjacent wales onto the face.

The third type of accordion @ selective accordion @ is most widely used# but it reEuires a threestep patternwheel or other selection device that can select the tuck loops so that they are carefully distributed to create

the minimum of stitch distortion on the face of the design.

Straight accordion

Alternate accordion


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Selected accordion

Documents

Kfs Study Material Unit II