KOREA magazine [JULY 2011 VOL. 7 NO. 7]

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    People & Culture

    july 2011

    ISSN :2005 -2162

    www.korea.net

    DaeguUncovering Myriadalleyways

    art Progressionlocal scene growswith classics

    koreanshiPbuilDingthe return of inDustry strength

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    Contents july 2011 VOL.7 NO.07

    02

    22

    36

    publisher Seo Kang-soo,Korean Culture and Information Service

    editing HEM KOREA Co., Ltd

    e-mail [email protected]

    printing Samsung Moonhwa Printing Co.

    All right reserved. No part of thispublication may be reproduced inany form without permission fromKOrea and the Korean Culture andInformation Service.

    The articles published in KOrea donot necessarily represent the views of

    the publisher. The publisher is not liablefor errors or omissions.

    If you want to receive a free copy ofKOrea or wish to cancel a subscription,please e-mail us. A downloadable PDFfile of KOrea, and a map and glossarywith common Korean words appearingin our text are available by clicking on thethumbnail of KOrea on the homepageof www.ko . .

    11-1110073-000016-06

    02cover story

    Koreas shipbuilding industry rises once more.

    12pen & brush

    Poet Kim Seung-hee writes of the pains of time.

    16people

    Park Tae-hwan prepares for his comeback.

    18great korean

    Meet Woo Jang-choon, Koreas famed botanist.

    20seoul

    Escape the frenzy of urban life at Nanji Camp.

    22travel

    Explore the history of Daegu via winding alleys.

    26festival

    Get down and dirty at Boryeong Mud Festival.

    27flavor

    Revitalize with a bowl of samgyetang soup.

    28now in korea

    Koreas art scene expands with global exhibits.

    32entertainment

    Are TV audition programs here to stay?

    34special issue

    Park Ji-sung hosts the first Asian Dream Cup.

    36special issue

    The Korean wave hits Europe with a splash.

    38summit diplomacy

    President Lee meets with China and Japan.

    42global korea

    International students are on the rise in Korea.

    46my korea

    A Canadian learns to keep cool in summer.

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    over story

    Korea is home to three o the worlds largest shipyards.he small peninsular country, which yielded its decade

    ong lead in the industry last year, is set to rise oncemore as the No 1 shipbuilder. Armed with cutting edgeechnology and skilled workers, Korea has made its way o the top rom humble beginnings. by Kim Yoo-chul T o

    p i c I m a g e s

    A w f a h pya d B a , h h

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    the construction o drill ships, natural gas (LNG) tankers, conships and FPSO projects.

    Te worlds h largest shipbS X O shore & Shipbuilding,winning orders similar to the tolocal shipyards. Last month, SUS$550 million worth o ord

    Europe and the United States. in shipbuilding stocks makes sebecause the demand or premi vessels is expected to rise amidprices and bigger appetites ornatural resources, says Jeong Dik, an analyst at Hanwha Securianother leading brokerage. He there is no question about Korein premium shipping related China has at least a one to twtechnology gap in shipbuilding

    Long-term momentum omomentum, Korea must shrug

    ollowing key worries: volatilemovements, uncertainty in the economy and materials costs suprice o steel plates and interesTe outlook is positive, howeverglobal shipbuilding industry is signs o what market analysts

    orea, home to the worlds largest

    hipyards, knows just how criticale shipbuilding industry is or the

    ealth o the nations economy. Tis isecause the per ormance o shipbuildersas a signi cant ripple e ect on theountrys trade and other ancillary rvices. Despite being hit by a slew o

    ancellations and declining ship pricesthe a ermath o the global economicisis, the nation is now preparingmake a comeback, with local

    hipbuilders leading the way. Last year,hina surpassed Korea as the worldsp shipbuilder, but o cials say this yearill be di erent, citing a legion o ordersey believe will help overcome the

    eighboring nation.Beijing contributed to an overall

    ommodity vessel glut by providingnancing to Chinese yards and securingbs during the global nancial crisis.hina has more than 3,000 shipbuilders,cluding roughly 1,000 that are ablebuild vessels that can travel in deepas, according to data rom the Korean

    overnment. As o the end o 2010,hina was the No 1 shipbuilder in terms compensated gross tons (CG ) o

    hips, with a total o 15.9 million tons,ollowed by Korea with 11.77 million

    number o new ship orders in 2011, as

    the markets or value added ships areexpanding amid rising oil prices.

    At the end o the rst quarter thisyear, Korea claimed 3.3 million CG , arahead o Chinas 1.95 CG , accordingto Clarkson-the worlds biggestshipbroker. In terms o new orders,South Korea received 90 commissionsduring the rst three months o the year,

    ollowed by Chinas 88 orders. However,the combined monetary value o theKorean orders was US$12.9 billion,while the combined value o Chinaswas US$3.5 billion. Tat means Koreanshipbuilders are winning the more valuable orders or drill ships and FPSO,which are oating, production, storageand ofoading units, says a Ministry o Strategy and Finance spokesman.

    Te top three Korean shipbuilders-Hyundai Heavy Industries (HHI),DSME and Samsung Heavy Industries-managed to sweep all 12 o the drill shipbuilding orders in the global market thisyear. Riding on this upbeat mood, thecountrys nance ministry has revised its

    orecasts or ships to US$51.7 billion, uprom US$50.5 billion.Korea started to rebuild its industrial

    structure in the 1970s by investing

    heavily in the shipbuilding industry,as the military dictatorship believedit could help the war stricken nation

    oster aster economic growth. LikeKorea, which made shipbuilding astrategic sector, China is in the processo repeating the model with large,state supported investments in the

    industry. Japan, once at the top o theinternational sector, lost its lead to Koreaseveral years ago, and its global marketshare has since dropped drastically.Meanwhile, the European market sharehas decreased to just 10% o Koreas,and production rom the United Statesand the rest o the world have becomenegligible in comparison.

    rising stocK Prices Helped by signso a market recovery, investors appearto be returning to shipbuilding relatedstocks on the nations main bourse.Shares plunged when ship ownerscanceled orders in late 2008, andinvestors and analysts have been on thesearch or signs o the next increase.Jeon Yong bum, a senior analyst atSolomon Investment, says rising orders

    or specialized vessels, such as drillships used to search or crude oil, as

    CG , data rom the Korea ShipbuildersAssociation (KOSHIPA) show.

    In overall tons, China is de nitely exing its muscles, but Korea is better

    positioned to export technological and value added ships, raising the possibility to get more orders rom big shipowners, says Ko Young ryeol, a seniorexecutive at Daewoo Shipbuilding &Marine Engineering (DSME). In termso the monetary value o ships, Korea isstill the top shipbuilder as o last year,with China ollowing behind.

    Chinese shipbuilders have been

    increasing the ship stockpiles drivenby Beijings so called shipbuildinginitiatives, as part o its strategy to boostthe Chinese economy. But most o theorders booked by the Chinese are lesspro table ones, says KOSHIPA ViceChairman Han Jang sop. Han expectsKorea to beat China in terms o the total

    well as more calls or o shore andenergy related vessels, were pushingshipbuilding stocks to rise.

    Korea has proven its ability to deliver valuable ships on time, and clients arewilling to pay more or the service. Tenext milestone will be the recovery o ship prices to levels be ore the 2008

    downturn, Jeon says. A er prices areregained, I think it will be the righttime or the sectors stock rally. Indeed,leading shipbuilding stocks have already begun gaining consistently, as investorsare giving more credits on shares, citingthe steady winning o premium shiporders. Data rom the Korea Exchange,the nations bourse operator, has shownthat shipbuilding stocks outper ormedothers so ar this year.

    As o the end o May, the worldsbiggest shipyard, HHI, has wonorders or 44 ships valued at US$11.7billion, accounting or 60% o thecompanys previous annual revenuetarget, spokesman Jo Seung woo says.DSME booked 16 orders valued atUS$4.35 billion, and Samsung Heavy Industries won US$10.5 billion wortho orders rom the United States, UnitedKingdom, Norway and Denmark or S

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    ructural change.Korea wont see any big hurdles inrms o orders throughout the nextear, particularly because o a decreaseinterest or nuclear reactors in the

    ake o the tsunami in Japan, says Ohung jin, head o research at Hyundaiecurities, one o the countrys largestnancial institutions. Germanystest decision to drop all o its 17uclear reactors by 2022 will urthercrease the demand or LNG, a more

    nvironmentally riendly alternative.Te demand or container ships is notrong enough yet, but it should reviveward the end o this year and the

    eginning o the next, Oh says.Deep sea oil and gas storage

    quipment is considered the nextource o revenue or the industry.

    Korean shipbuilders are implementinga number o measures aimed atcontrolling industry risk and ensuringcontinued development. Tey includeimproving internal management,centralized procurement and expandingthe non shipping business. HHI,Samsung, DSME and S X havedistinct technological merits in termso equipment manu acturing across abroad range o sectors, pushing them toexpand their operations.

    O shore wind power generatorsare becoming some o the more vital contributors to shipbuildersdevelopment o a more global outlook amid the governments green growthinitiatives. Hyundai, Samsung andDSME have all increased investmentin wind turbine related technologies

    as part o their business diversi cationstrategy. Diversi cation is the key orus to beat the industrys up and downcycles and to guarantee sustainablecorporate growth, says a SamsungHeavy Industries representative.

    Hyundai has been trans ormingits image into one o a shipbuilderthat supports solar cell businesses by giving more authorities to its nonshipping divisions, according to thecompany. Although the annual revenue

    or Hyundais shipbuilding businessdropped to 7.85 trillion won (US$7.3billion) as o the end o last year rom9.1 trillion won in 2008, total corporaterevenue has increased. otal revenue

    or 2010 was 22.4 trillion won, a changerom its 19.95 trillion won in 2008. HHI

    created a single entity to handle only

    solar cell and wind power businessesto expand into new markets. Hyundaishares are quite attractive becauseHyundai is not just a shipbuilding rm.With active investment in non shippingareas, we are securing new growthengines, says Ahn Ji hyun, an analyst atHMC Investment Securities.

    Te government is stepping in to

    help close the gap between the topcompanies past successes and utureendeavors. Te Ministry o KnowledgeEconomy announced in February a pledge to invest 300 billion won(US$278.1 million) into the greenshipbuilding industry over the nextdecade, providing an environmentally

    riendly edge to local shipyards. Teannouncement came a er news that theInternational Maritime Organizationwill be revising its CO2 emissions and

    environmental standards regulationsor new vessels in 2013. Te investment

    will be used in the development o low emission, energy e cient ships,which will help the industrys positionstrengthen in the global market.

    HumBLe Beginnings AlthoughKorea is on the brink o returning as

    the worlds top shipbuilder, the start o the local industry had humble origins.Koreas modern shipbuilding history dates back to the early 1970s, a timewhen the military regime sought waysto boost the national economy in theshortest time possible. Shipbuildingwas identi ed as a strategic industry since the eld is simultaneously labor,technology and cash intensive.

    With ull administrative, nancialand political support, HHI constructeda 1 million ton capacity dock in the city o Ulsan by the mid 1970s, aided by technological know how rom Europe.Daewoo Shipbuilding soon ollowedHyundai and built a 1.2 millionton acility on the southern island o Geojedo, in 1981. By the mid 1980s,a deep global recession and excess oil S

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    commodities led to a drastic deship orders.

    Economic woes only increaswith the onslaught o labor unrgovernment hesitation to o er

    nancial aid and Japans new, lointerest export nancing or thdomestic shipbuilders. Fortunamore resources were injected in

    Korean industry as top policy manticipated its positive impact. breakthrough was made in the 1990s as new vessel orders werand shipowners began to replacoutdated ships, creating work. Opast two decades, Korea has onin competitive design, quality, technology and component sup

    Te e ciency o a ship is bedetermined not just by its enginby the skills with which it was bsays a spokesman rom Mirae Securities, a leading local brokTe research house adds that theindustrys rise to the top has nosimple route-much less one thabe easily copied. Korea is surethe top o its eld once more, history and experience.

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    over story

    shipbuilders are expected to bene trom the industrys demand shi as

    the nation has already been proactively delivering high end results.

    Korean shipbuilders have beenexpanding their concepts rom justcarrier builders to ocean developers,says a spokesman rom local brokerageWoori Investment & Securities. Drillships in particular have been a highlight

    or local companies. Te vessel, usedto explore deep sea resources like gaswells, has the advantage o being ableto drill in water more than 2,300mdeep. O shore drilling rms are busy

    nding their next source o revenueamid rising oil prices and the li ing o a deepwater drilling ban by the Obamaadministration last year. Korea won all12 overseas drill ship orders as o the

    end o the rst quarter this year, andthe nations shipbuilders also swept all34 orders or large container ships over8,000 EU (20 oot equivalent units).

    Korea reclaimed the top globalposition by both backlogs and orderrevenues by the rst quarter, withrevenue reaching US$12.8 billion. Tebulk o the quarterly revenue is romwinning bids or premium ships, saysa Ministry o Knowledge Economy spokesman. China currently relies onthe less pro table, small container ships.

    Besides size, local companies o erdrill ships eaturing advanced systems,cutting edge design and economicallayout to maximize e ciency. Koreanmade drill ships are known to have anarrow hull that minimizes maintenancecosts. echnological advances at Daewoo

    oreas shipbuilding industry isans orming itsel rom a manu acturer size oriented ships to building

    ssels with advanced technology andgh value. Strong advantages-skilled

    esigners, capability, the economy o ale and development o innovativeoduction methods-have helpede country gain more orders orlue added ships and technology

    evelopment projects.A recent report released by the Chinassociation o National Shipbuildingdustry said Chinese shipbuilders willace choppy seas this year on risingbor and materials costs. Demand ine international shipbuilding market

    as moved positively or lique edatural gas (LNG) vessels and premiumngineering ships. Koreas leading

    oil rom deepwater wells and store it inhull tanks until it can be pumped intoshuttle tankers or oceangoing barges

    or transport to shore. FPSOs have thepotential to urther develop oil and gasreserves on the Gul o Mexicos OuterContinental Shel , so deep underwaterthey either present challenges orexceed existing production techniques.Hyundai, Daewoo and Samsung are

    rontrunners in FPSO technology,as they directly handle the designs,operations and delivery processes romstart to nish. Hyundai won a bid toconstruct a US$1.2 billion FPSO project

    rom oil major British Petroleum, withDaewoo and Samsung ollowing close

    on its heels with similar projects.In contrast, Chinese shipbuilders rely

    on constructing dry bulk ships, mostly used to carry iron ore, coal and other

    commodities, which aresimpler in design thancontainer carriers andtankers. Global demand

    or these types o vessels,about hal o which arebuilt in China, plunged73% to US$2.3 billion inthe rst quarter.

    A WireLess uPgrADe Korean shipbuilders areimplementing wirelessInternet technology totheir shipyards to improvecommunication. Hyundaiapplies wireless broadbandtechnology to its siteswith the cooperation o the nations top xed linebroadband operator. Underthe digital system, workersare able to communicate via voice, images and datasharing to communicationcenters and other workers.

    Shipbuilding & Marine Engineering(DSME) include an automatedpropulsion system, blowout preventersand a position controlling system.

    For Hyundai Heavy Industries (HHI),tightening global emissions regulationsled by the International MaritimeOrganization is raising demand or LNGas an alternative energy source. Japan,which su ered a nuclear crisis ollowinga major earthquake in March, is alsoturning to LNG to o set the loss o nuclear power. HHI recently won threeLNG carrier orders valued at US$600million rom Greece based Dynagas,and Korea overall has a 65% share o theLNG tanker market.

    Floating, Production, Storage andOfoading (FPSO) vessels are another

    acet o the countrys advantage overrivals. FPSO systems excavate crude

    8 | korea | july 2011

    All that is needed is a portable terminal that simply connects tcommunication network.

    At Daewoo, a robot develophouse is lending a helping handcarrier construction, which minloss during the building procedSimilarly, Samsung Heavy Indcreated a so called digital dreawhich allows the automation orange o procedures. From cuttto assembling pieces and loadinnearly 65% o all automation irobots-the highest percentage ocorporation, according to Sams

    Not to be le out, S X O shShipbuilding, the worlds h l

    shipyard, has developed an opcommunication digital weldingsystem, which enables technicmanagers to communicate smoduring the construction processnew technology is a hope ul ino S Xs uture in high end vorders, as o cials say the technwill save time and improve theo the ships. We project that wimplementation o the technolover the next ve years we wil11.5 billion won, says Kim Suspokesman or S X.

    Chinas leading shipbuilders planning to produce more soph vessels, because they attract higprices, and to shy away rom thcapacity glut. Te shipbroker Clsays new ships that can carry upboxes can cost roughly US$118or near double the price or cabulk vessels, the No 1 componeChinese yards order books by

    Chinese shipbuilders are try jumpstart their skills to cut dowreliance on less pro table shipchallenging because new techndoesnt appear overnight, saysAsset Securities Lee Sok je. M

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    he newransitiono PremiumVesselsKorea once had a stronghold on thendustry with its large scale ships, butevelopments in the ield are nowocused on distinguishing local vessels

    n terms o design and technology.

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    magine a wide, blue, open sea withothing but waves. A plush carpet linese halls, a deck chair sits warmed by e sun and a pool lures you into its cool

    epths, just tantalizingly close to thelty seawater. More and more peoplee choosing to spend their holidays

    n a cruise, and the ships have becomeore luxurious in recent years. Elegance

    as met a ordability as the recovery o onsumer spending strengthens.

    op tier shipbuilders are wideningeir scope to include premium options

    or cruise liners. Although Europeanvals have dominated the marketor years, Koreans are slowly makingeadway into the industry. Te Allure of e Seas and the Oasis of the Seas, built

    y Korean corporation S X O shoreShipbuilding, are the worlds largest

    uise ships, each weighing a respectable

    market, which has an estimated annualworth o US$10 billion. Te industry isthe astest growing travel sector in theplanet, according to market analysts,and has evolved to become a leader ininnovative advancements.

    Nearly 13.5 million travelers acrossthe globe went on a cruise in 2009. Tegood sign is that Korean shipbuildersare receiving increased calls to constructcruise ships-which has a 20% premiumper vessel compared to a containershipwith the same storage capacity-inEurope, as well as North America,says an o cial rom Hyundai Heavy Industries. Its too early to say thatKorean shipbuilders are positioned to

    join the league o cruise authorities. Butthe Allure of the Seas, constructed by S X Europe, is a good example o howKorea has begun taking steps.

    Positive recePtion Leading the ray here is Koreas S X, which acquiredAker Yards and converted it into S XEurope. Te European branch has 15shipyards, including sites in Finland,Norway and Romania, and is a partialowner o three yards in Germany and the Ukraine. S Xs two mostrepresentative cruise vessels-the Allureand Oasis-have received positivereviews since the premium ships beganroutes with Royal Caribbean Cruises.

    Daewoo Shipbuilding & MarineEngineering (DSME) and Samsung

    225,000 tons. Both vessels cost over 1.8trillion won (US$1.67 billion), and theOasis is comprised o 16 stories.

    Integrating the highest technologicalstandards, the ships eature innovativenew designs while maintaining majesticproportions. A range o intimateaccommodations and extravagantentertainment outlets and activitiescan be accessed on b oard, includinga lu sh Central Park on the Oasis.From an outdoor aqua theater tococktail bars, childrens playgrounds and

    grace ul dining rooms, S X managesto integrate amily entertainment witha romantic getaway. Parenting.comalso selected Allure of the Seas as one o the Best Cruise Ships or Families, orits customizable services and ongoingprograms or children.

    Te level o com ort o ered

    to our passengers is evidenced by the enjoyment o even our mostdiscriminating customers, says JeonKyoung ryeol, a senior executive at S Xin charge o cruise ship construction.

    Korea, home o the worlds threelargest shipyards, has been hoping tobolster its presence in the cruise industry.Despite rapid growth in the past threedecades and its competitiveness toChinese shipyards, the country hasyet to gain a strong oothold in theluxury liner eld. Circumstances are

    becoming avorable or local companies,as research or new cruise technology has been catalyzed by a rising globaldemand or luxury vacations.

    Currently, European centric cruiseshipbuilders, including Italy basedFincantieri and Germanys Meyer Wer ,control 85% o the global cruise shipping

    Heavy Industries have shown an interestin investing in the lucrative sector. Teshipbuilders are planning to maintaintheir current ocus on ships or businessto business purposes while also tappinginto the car erry ship industry.

    We are diversi ying our businessport olios away rom our heavy dependence on B2B businesses, but itwill take some time, says a spokesman

    or Daewoo. DSME is constructinga US$262 million worth erry orCompagnie unisienne de Navigation(C N), a unisian shipping rm.Te 51,000 gross ton vessel is set orcompletion within the next year, andcould carry up to 3,200 passengers

    and more than 1,000 cars. Te averry carries 1,500 passengersew hundred vehicles. Te ship,

    will be a semi cruise vessel wacilities such as a shopping ce

    restuarants, will be able to sail hour. DSME will integrate advatechnology into the constructioshares many characteristics witcruise liners, but not major er

    Daewoo will ease into the crindustry by upgrading its erricompany o cials say, hoping to

    orward within a ew years. Twill be used during peak seaso

    unisia France and unisia ItaSamsung Heavy Industries h

    laid down plans to build a 105,0ton vessel, combining the comp

    eatures o a private ship withcruise ship. Te nal result will i200 private cabins and 204 statTe amily riendly vessel wila sundeck, a waterslide and outtheaters, and will be completed

    Demand or cruise and cruships is rising thanks to royaltiemajor cruise ship operators, higoil prices and room or additioinvestments, says Samsung HeManaging Director Joo Youngryeol. Korea still lacks experiein building cruise ships, but wistrong technology basis, designproductivity, shipbuilders will nthe gap between Europe and Ko

    0 | korea | july 2011 www.kor

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    sailing smoothon a Cruise

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    | korea | july 2011

    n & brush

    Dreaming of Healing

    Kim Seung-

    Kim Seung hees language has always rejected the conventionso society. Her work concentrates on surviving the crisis o modernity, caused by the repressive reality o Koreas turbulentmodern history and the vandalism o capital, through theoutlet o creative language. A er 38 years as a po et, Kim believes

    her work to be the con ession o my phobia o the barbarismcalled modern civilization and the authority o male chauvinists,which is something that rightens us all. Tis intense reaction tocontemporary society has been the result o an existential crisisthat has haunted Kim or her entire li e.

    Her rst collection o poems, Sun Mass(1979), was an attemptto escape rom the oppression o a male dominated society, to

    nd the voice o emales in her time. Later works likeLove Song or Incompletion(1987) and Li e in the Egg (1989) spilled orthintimate admissions rom the lives o everyday women, acing theissues head on while exploring the controversies and dichotomieso emale li e. Kim says that it was in this latter period that sherediscovered hersel , physically and philosophically, through thedrama o marriage, giving birth and raising children.

    Back then, a sense o rejection that said I cant live like my mother began to emerge in young women, so I wrote about theperils o living as a emale using the daily vocabulary o eggs and

    ridges, pots and cooking, boiled and scrambled eggs, and makingpopcorn. Tese everyday things were so political, and women, asa social minority, were more sensitive to the social authority andoppression they represented, Kim says.

    Her yearning or birth, li e and reedom continued to evolve

    through the 1990s. Rebellious poems about the trans ormationand liberation o an individual trying to escape rom oppression-such as How Shall I Get Out? (1991), Te Heaviest Struggle inthe World (1995) and Laughter Speeding Away on a Broomstick (2000)-earned her a reputation as a guerilla poet. Later,with Pots Bobbing (2006), she captured the brutal existenceo contemporaries losing control amid the ood o moderncivilization, which won her the Art Award o the Year.

    eminist, surrealist, subversive-all o hese words have been used to describe

    Kim Seung hee, yet none seem to ully apture the writer. A resistance toppression, her poetry is an attempt toebel against the world around her andeal the pain o her era.

    y Lee Se-mi | photographs by Kim Hong-jin

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    www.kor

    Transcending realiTy Kim was born in 1952 in Gwangju, andher literary talent was evident rom an early age. She began to takeher rst steps into the world o poetry in elementary school, whenshe rst read early modern poet Kim Sowols amous Chohon.Kim remembers the moment as the rst time she elt the magicalbeauty o poetic language. Her adolescence was lled withsolitude and estrangement rom her peers. In middle school, shelearned language could transcend reality and heal ones pain a erreading avant garde Yi Sangs poem Clif . By high school, she hadgraduated rom Dadaism to existentialism and nihilism, readingphilosophers such as Kierkegaard, Schopenhauer, Nietzsche andHeidegger.

    Kim entered university as an English literature major, but herdays passed uneasily. It was the 1970s, the early days o Koreasmilitary regime, and classes were o en canceled under martiallaw. With nowhere else to go, Kim would wander to her campus,which had recently built a new library. Always a voracious reader,

    she delved into Freudian psychoanalysis and American andEnglish poetry, which would later in uence her own work.

    In her third year o college, Kim won the annual spring literary contest rom Te Kyunghyang Shinmun newspaper or herpoem Te Water in the Picture . She later said that she hadbeen attempting to overcome the barren soil o an ideology o terror through the element o water, an image o li e. Herautobiographical essay, Pensees o a 33-Year-Old (1985),carried the same graphic visuals, leaving a visceral impacton readers. Full o a macabre passion, Kim talks aboutthings like romantic suicide.

    More than two decades since her rst poem waspublished, Kim made her second debut as a ctionwriter with her short story On the Way to Santa Fe in 1994, which won Te Dong a Ilbo newspapersliterary contest that year. Te work is based on herexperiences at an international creative writingcourse at Iowa University in 1993. I was sufering

    rom a type o poetry autism, writing only poems exclusively. So I wanted to go urtherinto the eld, and unravel that ardent desirenot through poetic language, but narrative.

    In 1995, Kim taught Korean literature atthe University o Cali ornia at Berkeley as a visiting pro essor. Later, she taught at the

    University o Cali ornia at Irvine as a ulltime instructor, and became interestedin such themes as the irony o existenceunder a restrictive country, survivaland reedom.

    Pains of PoeTry Since her return to Korea, Kim has taught as aKorean literature pro essor at Sogang University, her alma mater.For her, writing poetry is a therapeutic process and somethingthat allows her to be reborn o her past. One can only be healed by

    acing li es most pain ul moments straight on, not only rejectingthe world but approaching it with bravery.

    Recently, she has become interested in the waste le over romthe culture o money and power. Although I think my sel has been dismantled and does not exist anymore, I still want toexpress the melancholy nature o living amid the ruins and thepain o dreams that have been snatched rom us, she says.

    Kim plans to take a sabbatical next year to ocus on writing.I hope next year will be a time o trans ormation or me, like inthe story where the leper with rotting skin emerges rom a cave ahandsome man, a er surviving a great deal o sufering, she says,re erring to the Biblical tale, and still ocused on the goal shes hadsince childhood. I dont think I can change society, but I have

    this dream o healing, to x this broken state o mine.

    i WanT To Hijack an airPlane

    Language EnglishPublished 2004Publisher Homa & Sekey Books

    I Want to Hijack an Airplane is a collection that features 103of Kims poems, which focus on themes ranging from theinviolability of life, the female condition, mother-daughterand husband-wife relationships.In Female Buddha , Kim vividly portrays the pain women gothrough during labor and in the triumphant moment of giving birth. In TheLegendary Flute of Silla , she asks her husband, Is it possible to live together, yet asif not living together, or to live apart, yet as if together? The poem suggests thatthere is a transparent and empty space between a wife and husband, a place wherethe wind blows and stars dance.Kims poems also deal with the cold, inhumane aspects of modern city life, and thelonging for freedom as an ideal. I Want to Hijack an Airplane speaks of liberationfrom everything oppressive, marking the boundaries in life and the longing for anabsolute existence.

    Walking on a WasHing line

    Language EnglishPublished 2010Publisher Cornell University

    Walking on a Washing Line was published last year as partof Cornell Universitys East Asia Program. Poems selectedfrom Pots Bobbing (2006) and Laughter Speeding Away ona Broomstick (2000), are combined with 10 new poems,containing a musical lyricism well-preserved in the Englishtranslation. The cover design portrays bleeding footprints hanging from aclothesline, aptly capturing the raw emotion and spirit of her poetry.

    selecTed Works

    Walking on a WasHing line

    Im walking on a washing line.I would really like to be engrossed in the task ofaestheticizing the crisiswithout exaggerating the crisis,feeling Im walking on a washing linehigh above the clouds.If thats a lifelong task,now is the time when it comes to the forein Capital Letters.If thats the poets task, although it may only beat the level of family handicrafts,ultimately it can include a quite significant cosmiccontent.In this age of vandalistic capitalismit means that this creature known as a poet,gaunt and withered like the pencil-lead of dire povertwith nothing to eat or put on,digging a well in the lines on her palmthen planting above it a single fantasy rainbowlike a clothesline,is aestheticizing and maximizing the washing.Drawing from her own palm spring-watermore lovely than Crystal Water orthe Indians Arrow Head Water,then walking on the clothesline-rainbow formedas it comes gushing out must be really historic.Be of good cheer! It is I; do not be afraid. (Mark 6:5A gladiolus, lips full of blood blooming above the basmore gracefully and urgently than even a cloud aboverainbow, destinys crimson flames dangling everywhimpossible to measure,the day my friend who worked in the East Gateclothing market was discovered deadin a motel beside the Yellow Sea,so utterly without any close family in this worldI came down off my washing line,went to the police morgue andI felt like a fire blazing up in a darkened theater -she lay there above the clouds with an expression thatseemed to say theres nothing as simple as nothing,things simple as nothing are good.

    Why couldnt you have held on a bit longer on thewashing line,why did you fall down like that?Unable to cry though longing to cry.Unable to fly though longing to fly.

    I resolve to live gracefully.Though every evening I ram the car into the walls of tunderground parking lot,I really have to immerse myself in the task ofaestheticizing the washingfeeling Im walking on a washing line highabove the clouds.

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    eople

    www.kore

    Y

    o n

    h a p

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    A g e n c y

    My only contender is mysel , notanyone else, and thats what I swim or.Park ae hwan, Koreas rst Olympicswimming champion and back toback Asiad triple gold medalist, iscon dent ahead o the FINA WorldChampionships held in Shanghai romJuly 16 to 31. Te 21 year old is expectedto ace tough competition in the mens

    reestyle against competitors MichaelPhelps and Sun Yang, but Park has beenthe picture o calm, composed rom hisexperiences with a rollercoaster careerand li elong passion or swimming.

    Born in Seoul in 1989, Park,nicknamed Marine Boy by ardent

    ans, discovered his natural talent onaccident. I started swimming at the ageo ve because I had asthma. My doctorsrecommended the sport, saying it wouldbe good or me, he says. By the age o seven, Park had begun his competitiveswimming career, winning severalmedals at local junior level events.

    Tat same year, the young championwas taken under the wing o the reveredRoh Min sang, the now retired Koreannational team coach, who he met at alocal sports club in Seoul. He had beentrained under junior coaches by thatpoint, but I noticed he was somethingspecial, based on my experiencesworking with members o the nationalteam. So I took over the role o instructing him, Roh says.

    Park excelled in the eld and quickly grew into a world class athlete with thehelp o Roh, who dedicated himsel toParks career until his retirement thisJanuary. Just a year a er joining theKorea Swimming Federation, 15 year

    old Park made his Olympic debut atthe 2004 Athens Games. However, theyoung swimmer was disquali ed or a

    alse start in the preliminary heat o the400m reestyle competition. I was sonervous at the time that I couldnt helpmysel rom alling into the pool, Park says. Tough the moment o publicembarrassment still stings, he addsthat the experience helped him learn to

    ocus. In act, Park took second place inthe 400m at the FINA World Cup laterthat year-the start o a winning streak.

    At the Pan Paci c SwimmingChampionships in Victoria, Canada, o August 2006, the reestyle swimmer wonthe 400m and 1,500m races, nishingsecond in the 200m. Te internationalspotlight came at the Doha AsianGames, where he swept three golds, onesilver and three bronzes, and also wonthe MVP award or the competition.

    wo years later, the Korean swimmingsensation was back at the BeijingOlympics, triumphing in the 400m andbecoming the nations rst swimminggold medalist. Suddenly the new ace ora slew o sports companies, Park seemedto be on top o the world and his game.However, a disappointing per ormance

    at the 2009 FINA World Championshipssaw him come home empty handed inall o the three competitions he raced-the 200m, 400m and 1,500m.

    Tough the athlete was still acclaimedas the most decorated swimmer in thenation, Parks slump raised concernsahead o the 2010 Asian Games inGuangzhou. But ans and critics worrieswere thrown aside when he returned towin three titles or a second time, in the100m, 200m and 400m races. Park set a

    Park ae hwan readies himsel or another career milestone at

    the 2011 FINA WorldChampionships in Shanghai.

    he passionate athlete isprepared to make his return to

    the top and possibly set a newworld record. by Yi Whan-woo

    Marine Boy Angled

    for Comeback

    series o new Asiad records or Koreanswimming with his success, includingwinning the highest number o overallmedals with 12including one silverand ve bronze in 2006 and 2010.

    Hoping to continue his streak, Park is ocusing on breaking the 400mworld record at the upcoming FINAchampionship, currently set at 3:40.08by Australian Ian Torpe. Park has beentraining hard under his private coach,Australian Michael Bohl, who is helpinghim prepare or the anticipated momentby rein orcing a sense o con dence.Tere was no doubt about Parks ability

    and his athlete spirit So what I tried towork with him along with training wasconversation and balance o li e, Bohlsays. Te Australian has been with Park since 2009, co coaching with Roh andbecoming his ull time coach with thelatters retirement. Bohl also redirectedthe swimmer to ocus on the 200m and

    400m races, as it would be tougbalance out training between bsprint and distance events.

    At the Shanghai competitionwill ace opponents Phelps andthe 200m, and Sun in the 400mKorean swimmer previously raagainst Phelps in the 200m at thOlympics, when the AmericanPark. However, Park set an Asiwith a time o 1:44.80 secondthe gold in the Guangzhou Asia400m against Sun, but the Chinswimmer has since improved hremarkably. Parks 400m person

    3:41.53 seconds, set in GuangzSun currently holds the best untime o 3:41.48 seconds.

    Parks competitors are ormbut the race isnt just about wingold. Te pool is his passion, anlooks orward to continuing hiinto the 2012 London Olympic

    Park Traises tflag at Asian Guang(opposreacts winninmens the 201(aboveswims Guang

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    reat korean

    W o o

    J a n g - c

    h o o n

    M e m o r

    i a l H a l

    l

    his amous research paper, Te Synthesis of Species, whichocused on genome analysis o a brassica plant and overturned

    previous theories. At the time, the established theory in thebiological world was that crossbreeding could only occurwithin the same species. Woo proved that it was possibleto create new plants by crossbreeding within a genus. Forexample, it was possible to create a plant with 19 chromosomesby crossbreeding a Chinese cabbage with 10 chromosomesand a cabbage with nine chromosomes.

    While Charles Darwins theory o evolution dictated thatspecies progress through natural selection, Woos theory supplemented that new hybrids could also be created by crossbreeding. His theory, now known as the riangle o U,

    Woo Jang choon was born in okyo in 1898 to a Korean athernd a Japanese mother. Tough he aced discrimination ors ethnic background, Woo graduated rom the University okyos agriculture department and was hired in Japans

    Ministry o Agricultures examination room, where hesearched thremmatology-the breeding o plants. He

    oon began to attract attention in the academic sphere as heublished in uential works like Characteristics of Morning lories Distinguished by Seedsand Evolution and Relationshipsetween the Brassica Flowers.Woo became the rst botanist to

    uccess ully breed double ower petunias in 1930, gaining himternational recognition.In 1935, Woo surprised the world again by presenting

    is mentioned in plant breeding textbooks around the world.When Korea was liberated rom Japanese colonial rule in

    1945, the Korean government wished or Woos homecoming.During the period directly ollowing liberation, many ethnicKoreans returned to their native country rom abroad, andthe sudden in ux o population led to a ood shortage. Tegovernment was in search o intellectuals who could pioneerthe seed industry and ease local agriculture to ruition. In1948, a government ormed committee initiated Woos returnto Korea and also established the Korean Agricultural ScienceResearch Institute, so the scholar would be able to begin hiswork immediately upon arrival to the country.

    Tough Woo was born in Japan, the botanist never orgot

    More than 50 years have passedsince Woo Jang choon, a worldrenowned agricultural scientist

    and botanist, died in 1959. Woo isstill remembered by Koreans asthe man who establishedadvanced plant breeding in 1950spost colonial Korea, eeding thepeople when the nation su ered

    rom massive ood shortagesollowing the Japanese

    occupation. His work, which canstill be seen today in stores aroundthe country, helped establish himas the ather o modern Koreanagriculture. by Seo Dong-cheol

    his Korean roots. He rst stepped onto Korean soil in 1950, and promised to contribute to the countrys utdevelopment. I have made e orts to compete with Japeople in Japan, the country o my mother, Woo saidwelcoming ceremony. But rom now on, I will put me orts into developing Korea.

    Sowing new SeedS Woo took o ce as the rst direthe Korean Agricultural Science Research Institute, loBusan, and began his research in earnest. Working tirethrough the Korean War (1950 1953), his lab was ablescape wartime damage due to its location, and Woo wto research in relative quiet. In the lab, the scientist ocreating new strains o seeds suitable to the countrysand advancing the plant breeding industry as a wholenew vegetables enabled Korea to grow its own crops wimporting seeds rom Japan, while addressing Korea

    shortage and strengthening other strains o ood, sucpotatoes bred to be less vulnerable to viruses. Some omore well known results o his work include Napa cthat could be grown in the Korean climate, Jeju mandradishes, peppers and onions.

    Te committee tasked with the responsibility o brinWoo to Korea also sent the botanist a small living stipRather than using it on ood and clothing, Woo wouldall o the money purchasing items relevant to his rese

    rom books to equipment or experiments. His dedicthe eld did not lessen even afer he was diagnosed wiulcer, going so ar as to place bags o newly develoseeds next to his IV drips, so he could obser ve his wo

    By the time Woo passed away in 1959, he had livedor less than 10 years. Despite the short period, he wa

    to achieve a li etimes worth o work. Due to his exteresearch, Korea became one o the worlds leading coin the rst lial generation ( rst generation hybrids) sa eld that plays a key role in developing sustainable Woos achievements are outstanding even in the contexmodern society, in an era when countries are in the pro securing and developing seed banks. Tese collecticrucial to the uture o ora in times o rapid climatas plants and animals alike are disappearing.

    Several days be ore his death, Woo received a medthe Korean government or his li e achievements. It the amous scientist shed tears while saying, My athas recognized my work. Woo helped Korea b ecomecountry it is today, and scientists make strides into thewith his research to support them.

    ThePeoplesBotanist

    A p rtra t f th sc t stw Ja -ch as ay u ma ( pp s t ).Fr m t p : A r up fsc t sts xam thpr r ss f xp r m tal

    s s br by w ; a vf th r s arch lab at thK r a A r culturalSc c R s arch i st tut ;w stu s a pla t sa r h us .

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    in Sangam dong. Nanji is the most popular, with bustlingcampers seen rom spring to all, pitching tents and playingoutdoors. Te campground can accommodate up to 2,000campers and is the largest inthe city with 194 sites to pitch atent. Its also located right nearthe Hangang River so it boasts apleasant natural environment inthe middle o all the urban sprawl.Another advantage is that you caneasily access the World Cup Park,providing ample opportunity to take in the verdant greens o Noeul (Sunset) Park, Haneul(Sky) Park, andPyeonghwa(Peace) Park.

    Last year alone,170,000 people visited Nanji, andmost summerweekends see thecamp lled withthe maximumnumber o people it can accommodate.

    Opened in 2002, Nanji is divided into a picnic area andtent sites. In the ormer, visitors can barbecue or have a picnicwithout camping or pitching an overnight tent. All that isneeded is a small admission ee to use the sites tables, chairsand other numerous acilities. Cho Ban seok, a requent visitorwho teaches middle and high school students at a church,says, I came here to enjoy a picnic with about 30 students lastyear. We camped out last time, but this time were just goingto picnic, since the campgrounds are already ully bookedbecause its peak season. We come here every year, actually.Its airly cheap, but it has everything you need, rom water

    ountains to hot showers to restrooms.Reservations or the tent area can be made in advance

    online or by phone, and includes access to the area rom 11amto 10am the ollowing day. Dont worry about camping geareither, as nearly everything can be rented or a great price,including tents, grills, camping tarps, tablecloths, blankets andlanterns. Convenience stores near the site even o er charcoal,gridirons, meat, vegetables and drinks.

    Nam Myeong ok, a 39 year old camper rom Junggye dong,Seoul, is getting ready or a night out at Nanji. My amily anda riends amily came here to do some camping. We brought

    ul

    An unusual sight spreads out be ore drivers speeding alongthe Gangbyeonbungno Expressway on the Hangang River.A variety o color ul tents are pitched near the water and thesmell o grilled barbecue wa s through the air. Cyclists and

    strolling gures ll the eyes as kites fy overhead and sportsenthusiasts toss a baseball back and orth. Its the scene o thecitys residents welcoming in the weekend with a visit to NanjiCamp, located in the heart o the capital.

    Tere are a number o campgrounds in which to enjoy nature, such as the Jungnang Campgrounds in Mangu dong,Gangdong Greenway Family Campground in Dunchon dong,Noeul Campgrounds in Seongsan dong and Nanji Camp M

    u n

    h w a

    I l b o

    ( a b o v e

    ) ; C h o s u n

    I l b o

    ( o p p o s

    i t e

    l e f t ) ; S p o r t s

    C h o s u n

    ( o p p o s i

    t e r i g

    h t )

    Admission is 3,750 won (US$3.5) for adults, 2,000 won for kids 5-7 yeand free for children 4 and under. If you bring your own tent, the fee is 1won per site. Tent rentals are 28,000 won (up to 4 people) or 37,500 wonto 6 people), and a tarp i s 39,000 won. Rental fees will increase 1,000 wAugust. Reservations should be made at least a month in advance durinseason (May to October).

    Add ess Nanji Camp, Nanji Hangang Park, 495-81 Sangam-dong, SeoC ac +82 2 304 0061, www.nanjicamping.co.kr

    InformAtIon

    City Campingeoul is a megalopolis o more than0 million people, so where do city wellers go in order to enjoy a bit o ature? Forget the long road trip,he stress ul itineraries and theeavy camping gear, urbanites ineoul have a chance to sleep under

    he stars and even get in some openir barbecue at Nanji Camp-

    without ever having to leave theoncrete jungle.y Seo Dong-cheol | photograph by Choi Ji-young

    some ood but just rented everything else: two tents,

    gridiron and a grill. Te camping gear was too expensivbuy and this place is really convenient. Te Hangang Rclose and there are parks nearby, so its the per ect aTis is our rst time, but Id like to come back again so

    Nanji Camp o ers accommodations or larger grouwell, with their extra large, yurt style tents that can h20 people. Fi y nine year old Kim Jeong ok camechildhood riends rom elementary school, explaininused to go on these long trips outside o Seoul, but itthat we can camp right here in the city. More and morcan come now, because its close and a ordable.

    Another advantage o Nanji Camp is the wide rangsports and leisure activities available nearby. Teres a b

    eld, pool, cycling area, water skiing site and mountacourse, and the west end o the campsite houses a wepark. Recycled artwork decorates buildings, and kids take classes in natural handkerchie dyeing and otheron activities. I you nd yoursel in Seoul during themonths, dont miss out on this chance to go camping bthe stars and the bright city lights.

    A bi ds-eye view na ji Ca p, l ca ed wi hi Se ul ( pp si e). fab ve, c u e cl ckwise: Child e play wi h ball s du i g a h day ci y; Cyclis s ide he bike pa h beside he Ha ga g rive , ex nCa p; A a ily e j y s e esh ba becue by hei e a na ji.

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    avel

    he host o the IAAF WChampionships in AugDaegu shelters some omost intriguing historicalleys. Walking these paone can discover the citdeep history. by Chung Don photographs by Kim Nam-heon

    b d - w f m Da g W bang T ww t ba n t at t b t.

    Walking the Alleys of

    In Korea, a perseverance to oveobstacles is known as a bulldospirit, and this determination tsucceed can be seen within loccompanies, construction and otindustries. Te Korean bulldozecan also be seen in the nationsas they increasingly stand in thspotlight with a string o succe

    gure skating to swimming.Korea is expected to shine on

    during the IAAF World ChampDaegu 2011, which runs romto Sept 4. More than 4,000 athlo cials will gather rom 212 cwith an expected V audience billion to watch the 47 events. TDaegu Stadium will serve as th venue or the weeklong event,three major sports competitionworld. Expectations are runnin

    or the last showdown ahead oLondon Olympics.

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    city. Tough only three remain today,roughly 10 Western structures werebuilt rom 1906 to 1910, constructedby missionaries at the end o theCon ucian-ruled Joseon Dynasty. Untilthat point, locals were only accustomedto the thatched- or tiled-roo s o hanok,Korean traditional houses, but thesenew buildings were comprised o ahodgepodge o historical Korean andmodern European designs. Foundationswere created rom the stones o thedemolished Daegueupseong Fortress,walls were built with red bricks romPyeongyang, roo s were constructed o Korean traditional tiles and designs were

    he PeoPles Drive Daegu, with aopulation o 2.51 million, is the thirdrgest metropolitan area in Korea andne o the hottest regions in the country.e basin city is surrounded by highountains, which once protected theea rom the North Korean armedorces during the Korean War (1950-953). Daegu is closely connected to theodern history and culture o Korea,the city once b oasted great a uence

    uring Japanese colonial rule. City wellers supported the independenceovement against the Japanese andany others migrated to the city,eking re uge. During the war, a culture artists, writers, musicians and other

    eative minds thrived.o understand the true ace o

    aegu, its best to take a tour throughe numerous alleyways o the city,here the past has been well preserved.heongna Hill, or ivy vine hill, is a goodarting point. Famous or its mentionthe Korean song Tinking of Friends ,e area once served as the stompingounds o composer Park ae-jun, whoent to high school there. Cheongnaalso well-known or being the site o

    ome o the rst modern buildings in the

    adopted rom Western houses.Te rst apple tree in the city was

    also planted on Cheongna Hill by amissionary named Woodbridge OJohnson, the director o DongsanHospital. oday, apples are one o themajor agricultural products o Daegu.

    Down a 90-step staircase andaway rom the tree, a century-oldRomanesque cathedral built in theGothic style can be seen in the city.Te Gyesandong Cathedral, built in1902, was designed by 30 architecturalengineers rom France and China, andthe structure later stood as witness tothe 1919 Independence Movement.Cardinal Stephen Kim Sou-hwan wasordained as a priest inside the cathedral

    and ormer Korean President Park Chung-hee was married within its walls.

    Alley Niches Down past thecathedrals road o tulips and laurels,Mulberry Alley is next on the tour. Tesite was the home o amous poet YiSang-hwa and economist Seo Sang-don.Yi wrote about national anger during therepression o the Japanese colonization,in works such as Sorrowful Seaweeds.Seo is known or pioneering theNational Debt Repayment Movement,a program that helped the country gainsome orm o nancial independence

    rom the Japanese government.Next to be explored is Yakjeon Alley,

    or medicine store alley, which is lledwith dispensaries o Oriental medicine.Since 1658, a month-long Orientalmedicine market has been held hereevery spring and autumn. When themarket was rst established, the site wasopened only under order o the king,which ensured its quality. Daegu wasknown as the best place to buy medicine,with the market even supplying China,Mongolia, Japan and Russia. oday,the Yangnyeongsi Oriental MedicineCultural Center stands at the entrance o the alley, ofering in ormation about themarket and medicine.

    Te next stop is teok Alley, orrice cake alley. Korean rice cakes area traditional ood indispensible tocultural rituals, including weddingsand birthdays. Rice cake shops display color ul oods sent to the bride andgrooms homes on wedding days, luringin shoppers with their scent and warmcolor palettes. Past the rows o delicaciesis Jin Alley, one o the most amous areasin the city. Located near teok Alley,the name means long in local dialect.

    oday, however, Jin Alley is short. Uponentering, silence alls thick and timesuddenly slows to a stop. A rusty bike

    leans against the wall and senior citizenswalk unhurriedly along the 100-year-old alley. Te alley can be ound onmaps dating as ar back as 1905, andwas once a village o amilies in theSeo clan during the Japanese colonialperiod, a cluster o studios or artists andwriters during the Korean War, and theneighborhood o businessmen duringthe industrialization period.

    Daegu has a range o other streets to I A A F W o r

    l d C h a m p i o n s h

    i p s

    ( l e f t t o p )

    explore, such as the Art Street in Hyangchon-dong, Culture StSamdeok-dong, China own ASeomun Market. o explore eadepth would take more than a wthe Daegu Metropolitan Goveris working to spur projects andthe long-lost areas. Te secrets oalleyways each uncover a bit ohistory, making it the per ect rdive into the wonders o Daeg

    hoW To GeT ThereA p an Daegu has a great transportationinfrastructure. Daegu International Airport

    has direct routes to Beijing, Shanghai and Shenyang,and each flight is roughly two hours. Tourists fromother countries may enter through Seoul (IncheonIntl Airport) or Busan (Gimhae Intl Airport), andconnect via domestic flights.

    T a nIt takes one hour and 40 minutes fromSeoul to Dongdaegu (East Daegu) Station on

    the KTX high-speed rail, and one hour from Busan.Daegu has two main subway lines and the DaeguExpress Terminal connects to six major freeways.

    WhAT To eATWith its long history, the city has a wide array of unique foods. One of the most famous locadishes is jjimgalbi , a unique dish made of beef ribs found in the Dongin-dong area. There arestaurants specializing in the dish, and the 40-year-old restaurants of Yujin Jjimgalbi (+82 5425 7184) and Beonggeul Beonggeul Jjimgalbi (+82 53 424 6881) are recommended. Othelocal cuisine include flat dumplings, Yaki udon noodles and gondrebap vegetable ric

    Where To sTAyh t Recommended high-end hotels to check out are the Novotel Daegu City Ce(+82 53 664 1101), Eldis Regent Hotel (+82 53 253 7711) and Caesars Motel (+82 5

    745 0301), which each offer delicious buffets.T mp For those looking for an i mmersive accommodations experience unlike aother, Donghwasa Temple (+82 53 982 0101) on Palgongsan Mountain offers an

    overnight Templestay program.

    FiND ouT MoreInformation can be found online at the Daegu Tourist Information Center (www.daegutour.oor +82 2 627 8900). For direct assistance while in Daegu, dial 1330.

    TrAvel iNForMATioN

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    As waves o heat roll o the city asphalt, urbanites are likely tosuccumb to the summerstupor that leaves Sunday a ternoons listless. So ight thehumid weather with somethingeven more intense: a large bowl o piping hot soup. by Ines Min

    Te nostalgia o chicken noodle soup is replaced with theage old tradition o samgyetang , or ginseng chicken soup,in Korea. Going beyond the simple cure or the runny nose in winter, samgyetang nds its niche in the hottestdog days o summer, also known as Bongnal . On the threeBongnal days (which are calculated according to the lunarcalendar), locals replenish their spent energy with healthy ingredients and something to warm the body.

    Samgyetang is made by stu ng a young chicken withrice, Korean ginseng, jujube, garlic and ginger, and boilingit in a broth. Only whole ingredients are used, ollowingthe belie that uncut oods retain the most nutrients. Amultitude o other herbs, nuts and seasonings can be addedto tweak the dish, but the nished result is always served ina traditional earthenware bowl, delivered boiling hot andstraight to the table. Salt is added to taste.

    Chicken is used or the dish, as it is high in protein, butlow in at and low in calories. Te ginseng in the stew,which provides an herbal kick to the mild dish, helpsincrease metabolism and assists the body in recovering

    rom atigue. Te antioxidant, anti cancer root has a rangeo noted health bene ts. Te jujube helps prevent anemia,hypertension and excessive sweating, and the touch o garlic lowers cholesterol and blood pressure.

    Consuming hot oods, as opposed to cold, duringsummer better acclimates the body to the outsidetemperature. Te nutrient rich dish also serves as a generalcure all, helping ward o illnesses and colds year round.

    Although the prospect o eating a whole chicken mightseem daunting at rst, one o the charms o samgyetang isits ease o edibility. Te intense temperature o the brothand the tender chicken means the meat alls r ight o thebones. Once the bones are removed, the sticky, sweetrice and other ingredients can then be consumed with aspoon- ollowing the shortest path to the mouth.

    Samgyetang can be made at home, but many in the city have a so spot or their avorite restaurant. Several longtime establishments specialize

    in samgyetang, with a variety o additional ingredients that makethe dish their own. When youre

    eeling lethargic rom the heat,head to your kitchen or to thatneighborhood joint, and indulgein a bowl o health, heat andhappiness.

    estival

    B

    o r y e o n g

    M u d

    F e s t

    i v a l

    ( o p p o s i

    t e ) ; T o p

    i c I m a g e s

    ( r i g h t ) ; S u n u

    H y o n g - j u n

    ( r i g h t a b o v e )

    Magical MudGetting mud on your clothes used to be a

    orbidden pleasure, but at the Boryeong Mudestival its not just acceptable-its required.Ines Min

    Boryeong in Chungcheongnam do Province is a moderate,beach adorned city o just over 100,000 people or most o the year. Come summer, however, millions o tourists fock to the popular Daecheon Beach with just one thought inmind: getting muddy. Te Boryeong Mud Festival (July 16 to24) is what allures amilies, teenagers, couples and riends tothe celebration. Last years event drew more than 2.6 millionpeople, an increase o over hal a million rom the previousyear. Te estival is also known or having the largest numbero oreign participants than any other event in the country andprovides oreign language interpretation services.

    Te regional mud, known or its mineral and nutrientrich composition, has anti aging properties and helps treatskin diseases, providing an additional health bene t to

    estivalgoers. Te local government began promoting theareas natural resource with a skincare and makeup line in1996. wo years later, the estival was established by the city

    or marketing purposes, but the event soon took on a li e o itsown. oday, a diverse range o mud products- rom shampooto BB (blemish balm) cream-can be purchased on site.

    Hosted on the idyllic Daecheon Beach, the main componento the estival is actually transported rom the nearby mudfatsto the sandy shore. ons o smooth, gray mud is thenseparated into a variety o activity zones, including mud slides,a wrestling ring, an air bounce and e ven an obstacle course.Hands on classes or mud pottery will be held, along with astreet parade, hip hop concerts and other late night programs.General admission is 5,000 won (US$4.6). A r juv nating b l f samgyetang is s rv d n a h t day.

    T s kch n R staurant This local gem is best knownfor its complex broth thatincludes more than 30ingredients. Tip: Arrive earlyto avoid the long lines!85-1 Jebu-dong, SeoulPhone: +82 2 737 7444

    HoT SpoTS

    ke a bus from Seoul Expressus Terminal (Central) tooryeong (Daecheon). Travelme is 2 hours and 20 minutes.

    r more information, visit www.udfestival.or.kr.

    How To GeT THeRe

    Summer of Samgyetang

    A gr u f mud-c v r d fri ndsstand f r a h t (ab v ).F r ign rs av th ir mud

    ainting brush s at th cam ra(l ft). F stivalg rs s aft rvisiting th mud b dy- aintingar a (b l ).

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    www.kore8 | korea | july 2011

    ow in korea

    u um di c x ain an a w k a Na i nau um C n m a y A , D k ugung.

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    a t i o n a l

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    o f C o n

    t e m p o r a r y

    A r t , K

    o r e a

    Viewers clutching audio guides ormed a long queue Monday morning to get a closer look at Vincent van Gmasterpiece Starry Night Over the Rhone, at Seoul ACenters Hangaram Museum. Such a crowd, which usseen only on weekends, is now amiliar on any day oat a number o art hubs within the city.

    Te exhibit, Muse dOrsay: Dream and Reality, weatures 134 artworks by 19th century French artists s

    Van Gogh, Claude Monet, Auguste Renoir and Paul Cattracted more than 15,000 visitors within three days oopening on June 3. It is big news, even or mysel , many artworks rom Muse dOrsays collection exhoutside o the museum, says Guy Cogeval, presidenFrench museum. Te exhibit is only one o many blocshows introducing art rom di erent countries in Kornow. Since 2000, art museums and galleries here havebroadening the local scene by holding large scale exhcollaboration with the worlds major art museums, incthe Centre Georges Pompidou, the Louvre and Musein France, the Whitney Museum o American Art in tUnited States and the MACBA in Spain. Te shows, usheld during the summer and winter vacation seasons,

    Korea is a growing haven or art a icionAn increasing number o blockbuster ex

    eaturing hundreds o rare, world classmasterpieces are held each season, and th

    hottest international artists are beingshowcased in private galleries all year rby Park Min-young

    Embracingworld

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    www.kore0 | korea | july 2011

    ell me ell me: Australian and Korean art 1976 2011,organized by National Art School Gallery and MOCA tocommemorate the 50 th anniversary o Korea Australiadiplomatic relations, is already underway at the Sydney gallery, to run until late August. Here, it will run rom Nov 7, 2011, to Feb 19, 2012, at MOCAs Gwacheon museum.Te show explores young artists interpretations o arthistorical movements since the year 1976, such as Fluxus, andinvestigates the places o both Korean and Australian art in theglobal art world. Artists rom both countries like Nam JunePaik, Shim Moon Seup, Lee U an, John Davis, Marr Groundsand erry Reid are on display. Te Seoul Museum o Art,located downtown, also held a two monthlong show eaturing22 Australian media artworks, which ended in late June. Teexchange exhibition presented images o Australias presentand uture, people, rural and urban sights.

    Te Leeum, Samsung Museum o Art selected Americanartist Christian Marclay as the rst to introduce in its newBlack Box Project, which started last year. Te project aimsto introduce world renowned media artists to the Koreanpublic by screening the works in a giant, concrete black box

    xed to oat 17m above the museum oor. Te museumsremarkable choice, made when Marclay was still an un amiliarartist here, was acclaimed especially afer the artist won theGolden Lion award at the Venice Biennale this year with his 24hour long video collage, Te Clock . Te museum is preparing

    or an extensive Alexander Calder show in July.

    INDepeNDeNt eNDeAvors Tough their scale may besmaller, private galleries dotting the Sagan dong and Sinsa

    ecome some o the most popular destinations or localsoking or a cultural experience.

    WorlD-ClAss ColleCtIoNs Dream and Reality is theird show eaturing the Muse dOrsays collection in Seoul.e rst and second exhibits showcased 40 70 artworks, andad about 400,000 and 430,000 visitors, respectively. Teurrent show is the biggest yet, with 73 paintings, 24 drawingsnd 37 photos. GNC media, the Korean exhibit organizer,mped at the opportunity to showcase the artwork when therench museums Impressionist galleries-the largest collectionthe world-recently underwent renovations in 2009.Eighty seven artworks rom the Whitney Museum o merican Arts collection can be ound in Seoul as well, at

    Te American Art: Masterpieces o Everyday Li e rom theWhitney Museum o American Art. Te showcase is currently

    nning at the National Museum o Contemporary Arts

    eoksugung branch through Sept 25. Te show provides aomprehensive view o contemporary American art by o eringaintings, photos and installations rom the prominent USuseum. Te list o 47 eatured artists includes Andy Warhol,oy Lichtenstein, Man Ray and Jasper Johns.Starting with the 1993 show eaturing works rom the 1992

    Whitney Biennale, the National Museum o Contemporary rt (MOCA) has been making e orts to introduce worldt to the Korean public. Some o MOCAs recent exhibitsocusing on international artists include Colombian artisternando Boteros show in 2009; Picasso and Modern Art,hich eatured over 120 paintings, drawings and sculptures by 9 European artists rom the late 19 th and early 20 th century in010; Te Shadow o Speech, MACBA Collection, composed

    o 140 paintings, sculptures, installation and media art by 63contemporary artists owned by MACBA in 2010; and Madein Popland, which showcased about 250 pop artworks by Korean, Chinese and Japanese artists.

    In July, MOCA will give a glimpse o French art throughthe exhibition Le Prix Marcel Duchamp at its main museumin Gwacheon, Gyeonggi do Province. Co organized with theAssociation or the International Di usion o French Art,the exhibition is being held in commemoration o the 10 th anniversary o the prestigious prize, which aims to promote theFrench art scene in the international market. Fifeen Frenchartists who either won the award or were nominated, includingCyprien Gaillard, Mathieu Mercier, Laurent Grasso andSadane A , will be eatured in the show. Quiet, yet thoughtprovoking installations, video works, sculptures, photos andpaintings will be shown in the exhibit. Duchamps concept o readymade greatly in uenced the worlds contemporary arthistory. Koreans especially put more importance on it, so wethought it was time to shed light on it. We have not properly introduced art rom Eastern Europe yet, so we are currently contacting museums in Eastern Europe. Tese exhibits arepart o a bigger concept to globalize contemporary art, saysLee Ji ho, head curator at MOCA.

    AN INterest IN the UNfAMIlIAr Next, MOCA plans tointroduce Australian contemporary art to the country. ToughAustralian arts hold in the world market has weakened inrecent years, the country is recognized or its Biennale o Sydney-one o the worlds oldest art biennales and Australiasmost popular art event-established in 1973. G

    N C m e

    d i a ( o p p o s i

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    A r t ,

    K o r e a

    dong neighborhoods requently hold exhibits spotligoreign artists who are less known in Korea. Kukje G

    in Sagan dong, or example, organizes more oreignshows than Koreans. Renowned artists such as DamieJoan Mitchell, Joseph Beuys, Louise Bourgeois and Juhave held shows at the gallery. Most recently, the galleBritish artist Cecily Browns solo exhibition in June.

    Gallery Hyundai, which has branches in both Sinsaand Sagan dong, introduced 30 o French artist FranMorellets representative works in June. Tough Morellknown as a master o geometrical abstract art and hasmore than 455 solo exhibitions around the world, it w

    rst show to be held in Korea. Arario Gallery, which hlocations in Sagan dong and Cheonan, Chungcheongdo Province, ofen introduces Indian and Southeast Asartists, such as artist duo Tukral and agra last year. PKGallery in Sagan dong and Cheongdam dong, recenpresented Katie Paterson, an up and coming artist rUK. Private galleries can introduce various artists ryoung and trendy to the established, quickly and withmany restrictions compared to national museums, say

    ae yeon, director o PKM rinity Gallery. Private are taking part in educating art students and the public

    eaturing works by oreign artists who are currently cimportant in the rest o the world.

    Starry Night Over the Rhone by vinc n an G g i n di ay a A C n ( i b w). f m i , igSCrystal Bowl by r y lic n in, Pie Counter by Wayn t i baud aFortune by Man ray a n di ay a Na i na Mu um C n m a y A , D k ugung.

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    does not mean that the trend will continue to be succeTe most popular hot tickets have proven to be SupeK- which is now preparing or its third season with aoverseas-Te Great Birth and I Am a Singer . Te remanewly coined programs still have yet to concretely esthemselves, and i they are not success ul, viewers mto rethink the epicenter o this ever. Perhaps the crathe new programming has not to do with audition pro

    but music based entertainment. In act, music progracreated a number o cultural phenomena in the past, athe ormat was not audition based. Cest Si Bon, whicacoustic olk music to the V in the 1970s, and Quao Menwas also a hit with its chorus segment. It will bobserving whether this latest craze comes rom the ta

    V ormat or simply rom the raw power o music athat appeals to people emotionally.

    include searches or rising actors and actresses, and ror an announcer or a major V network.Cable and network V are now both contending to

    the next big hit program, including an increase in remsuccess ul overseas shows. One such example is the popular Koreas Got alent , a remake o Britains Got which was originally exported to 36 countries. Te shoheadlines last month when a video clip o a contestanhard knock li e story drew in millions-went viral a laBoyle.Opera Star takes on the same concept except wopera, while Dancing with the Stars tests the hip swao celebrities and other high pro le gures.

    Tis year, the majority o Korean entertainmentprogramming adopted audition systems. However, thi

    www.kore | korea | july 2011

    urvival audition programs are all the rage in Korea theseays. When Superstar K , the Korean version o American Idol rst aired in Korea two years ago, not many people couldave oreseen the success o the show. It was only a matter o me, however, as the reality based audition ormat had beenuccess ully making a rise in the Western world since the early 000s. Te survival o the most talented approach has seen M

    B C

    tertainment

    he past year has seen an undeniable surge o audition style programming in theentertainment sector. But is this reality V here to stay, or is it simply millions o people

    connecting to their passion or music? by Jeong Deok hyeon

    Opposite, left to right: Singers perform in the show I Am a Singer contestant on The Great Birth shows his skills; an MC introduces a partion Super Rookie . A singer gives his all in an episode of I Am a Sin

    hit spin ofs exported the world over, rom Australian Idol toDeutschland sucht den Superstar .

    Te origin o this trend lies in American Idol , throughwhich Kelly Clarkson was turned into an international name,

    ollowed by Britains Got alent , which brought Paul Potts andSusan Boyle to the sudden spotlight. Te ormat speaks onan emotional level to people regardless o their nationalities.

    Superstar K , which aired on Mnet, was the rst auditionprogram in Korea. Te program showed plenty o potentialwith its rst season in 2009, and nally started a nationwidephenomenon with its second season. Te V show, which tugson the heartstrings o its viewers, established a competitivestructure while telling rags to riches li e stories.

    Huh Gak, the winner o Superstar K s second season,became an instant symbol within pop culture. A ventilatorrepairman with no notable education, a short stature andno particularly striking looks, Huh nevertheless became theshows main protagonist, winning over ans with his li e story and booming vocals. Harnessing Huhs raw emotional power,the cable V show outranked viewer ratings on network

    V, a then unprecedented eat. Te timing o the show waswell placed, and the success o the program coincided withpracticality: production costs. Until two years ago, indirectadvertisements-a major source o revenue-were banned

    rom network channels. Accordingly, network V was unableto produce programming that required larger productionbudgets, as unding was simply unavailable. Superstar K wasable to make the most o indirect advertisements and createthe kind o program local channels were unable to do. In partdue to the talent shows proven success, the National Assembly passed a law changing advertising regulations in 2009, andnetwork channels soon jumped on the bandwagon.

    Te change saw a slew o new reality V shows comeorth, including MBCs Te Great Birth , which ocused on

    a mentoring system or its contestants, and I Am a Singer ,which pitted veteran singers against one another. Te latterin particular shook the K pop industry, which is largely dominated by young idols and celebrities. Te relatively older contestants on Singer saw a second rise to ame as they captured their ormer audiences interests once more, evenpushing younger K pop music out rom the top singles lists.Te program helped return the ocus to a singers vocal talents,which had long been ousted by visual dance skills.

    I Am a Singer grew to become the crossroads o controversialissues in contemporary Korean music, as other network channels launched their own programs. Oldies but Goodies 2,the pop version o Singer , discovered stars whose talents hadbeen ignored in avor o their looks. KBS then produced opBand, which moved the spotlight rom individual singers togroup collaborations. Te trend has urthered still, with talentshows taking on new shape and expanding to other culturalsectors. SBSKiss and Cry, hosted by world champion gureskater Kim Yu na, sees celebrities learn to gure skate andcompete in an absurdly short time period. Other programs

    Reality TalentShows Sweep Korea

    TV

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    www.kore | korea | july 2011

    hildren and sports ans cheered asootball greats battled on the brighteen grass o their home eld, with

    ayers rom across the world playing oreir bene t. JS Foundation, ootballerark Ji-sungs charity organization, helde inaugural Asian Dream Cup in Hohi Minh City, Vietnam, rom June 1315, to support and promote the sportroughout Southeast Asia.Te Manchester United mid elder Y

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    Park Ji-sung coaches local kids in Vietnam(opposite). From left, JS Friends show team spiritafter losing the friendly; Park signs autographsfor fans; Park goes for the ball during the match.

    Football fun and ormer Korean national ootballteam captain hosted the event, whichwas comprised o a riendly match

    between an international team andthe local league, educational activities,multicultural meetings and otherevents to help establish a local ootballin rastructure. Te JS Foundations rstactivity since its establishment earlierthis year, the event opened to positivereception and international cooperation.

    Te annual Asian Dream Cup willcontinue on to Tailand, Indonesia andother regional countries next year.

    A number o people recommendedVietnam or the inaugural AsianDream Cup, saying that the country is overwhelmed with ootball ever.I also decided on Vietnam since itshares a similar history with Korea, asthe Southeast Asian country was alsodivided into two in the past, Park said.

    I want to give hope to young kidsin Vietnam who love ootball. Asian

    ootball is growing ast and the gapbetween the ootball powerhouses[and less-developed ootball nations] isclosing. I I can give Asian players somekind o motivation, I think they willhave the desire to become great ootballplayers, he said. Park himsel is a six-season-career Premier League player,and rst made a name or himsel duringthe 2002 FIFA World Cup co-hostedby South Korea and Japan. He joinedManchester United in 2005, where hecontinues to show o his talents today.

    Te JS Foundation was establishedin February to promote ootball

    worldwide. Te nonpro t organizationwill donate its proceeds to a number o countries, organizations and institutionsin Southeast Asia and around the world,particularly in regions lacking proper

    ootball in rastructure. Te proceedsrom the rst event will b e donated to

    help budding programs in Vietnam.Te Asian Dream Cup opened on

    June 14 with a meeting or multiculturalamilies and a youth camp or uture

    sports stars. Sixty children were given alesson in ootball basics, with Yoo Sang-chul, Park and three other colleaguesworking hard as their coaches.Tough the sun shone bright and thetemperature reached over 30C, every

    ace was smiling and ready to play.I hope all o you will become world-

    class players, Park told the excitedparticipants. You can even becomebetter than me i you hold onto yourdreams and train hard.

    Te next day, the major event o thecup was held at the 20,000-seat TongNhat Stadium. Te riendly match sawmajor European and Asian ootballnames participating, along with a ewathletic Korean celebrities. Te packedstadium roared wtih the sounds o the

    ans, with a ew ticket-less, dedicatedew even watching rom the ences,

    determined to see the nal score. Tetwo teams, JS Friends and Navibank

    Saigon, the Vietnamese pro essionalleague club, played a competitive andexciting game, with the home teamultimately winning 4-3.

    Park and participating internationalootballers ormed the JS Friends team,

    including both Korean avorites andoverseas leaguers. Korean nationalsincluded: Englands Bolton Wanderersright winger Lee Chung-yong; romFrances Ligue 1, AS Monaco strikerPark Chu-young, AJ Auxerre orwardJung Jo-gook, Valenciennes FCmid elder Nam ae-hee; and ScotlandsCeltic FC mid elder Ki Sung-yeung.Players rom Japan included NakataHidetoshi and Miura Kazuyoshi, and

    mid elder Matsui Daisuke o FLigue 2 out t Grenoble Foot 38Belgian pro essional ootball SK goalkeeper Kawashima Eijrevealed that he personally coneach o the team players to parin the event, emailing and calli

    riends to join.K-pop star Kim Jun-su or Xi

    JYJ also joined the estivities, the pitch as a substitute. He shosports skills as he connected a the o ense, mere moments aferput on the eld. He per ormedhis pop group during halfime akeeping the event lively with m

    Te riendly provided a chan

    Vietnam to get into the spirit ogame, but also served as an oppto show what the sport is all abVietnamese children will haveo challenge by watching the Eleague ootballers playing in rPark said ahead o the match.

    Manchester United managerFerguson showed support or P video message sent to the ounTe Englishman praised Parksphilanthropic character, re erri

    oundation as a antastic contto the wel are o others.

    He has a real caring heart. Whe is going to achieve out therehe nds he enjoys it, Ferguson

    ark Ji-sung hosted a charity event in Vietnam, bringing together amous sports names withocal children to support ootball in the Southeast Asian country. by Yi Whan-woo

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    Enthralling thousands o ans and almost paralyzing the area aroundParis Charles de Gaulle Airport and Znith de Paris, a K pop concert served as a

    milestone or the Korean wave, as Europe begins to give in to the craze. by Park Min-young

    K-pop taKes paris

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    pecial issue

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    Over 14,000 K pop ans nearly blew the top o the Znithde Paris on the nights o June10 and 11 with their excitedscreams. SM EntertainmentAgencys two concert showcasein Europe, SM own LiveWorld our in Paris, was ahuge success that proved how

    arHallyu, the Korean wave,has spread. Te show eaturedthe popular K pop groupsGirls Generation, Super Junior,SHINee, VXQ and (x). Fans

    rom across all over Europe-including France, England andGermany, and as ar away as

    Sweden and Serbia-went crazy at the per ormers every move.Concert organizers estimatedthat only about 5% o theaudience was Korean.

    Im learning Korean so Ican understand the lyrics o their songs, a 19 year oldSpanish student told a Koreannewspaper, adding that she ew in to Paris just to see VXQper orm live. Tat everish excitement didnt ade even a erthe three hour concerts were over. eenage ans lingered intheir seats long a er the singers had exited the stage, many lein quiet shock at the shows end.

    Avid K pop ans in France had been waiting or the singersnight and day since SM Entertainment, one o Koreas topentertainment agencies, announced the rst ever concert tobe held in Paris. Several hundreds o ans rallied in ront o the Louvre in May, demanding an extra show as tickets to theoriginally scheduled single concert sold out in 15 minutes.Realizing the K pop renzy and meeting the ans demands,SM decided to hold an additional concert. wo days be orethe concert, more than 1,500 teenagers camped out in a cornero Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, preparing to welcometheir beloved stars as soon as they set a oot in the country.Tey waved placards and Korean ags, sang and danced tothe groups hit songs like SHINees Ring Ding Dong and GirlsGenerations Gee. Fi y local police ofcers were deployed tomaintain order. When the bands nally appeared at the gates,

    ans rushed to get a better view o them, squealing in joy and

    some even sheddo happiness.

    Such a receptsurprised even

    singers

    aEntert

    Following tconcert on the organizthat the beyond o

    expectations.Te French media

    immediately picked upthe Hallyu sensation. D

    newspaper Le Monde the concert on its ronsaying Te Korean wavinvaded Europe. It sai video sharing servicesYou ube and SNS suchFacebook and witter ethe spread o K pop iand pointed out that K

    entertainment agencies system o nurturing new singcrucial actor in the groups popularity. Le Figaro alsphoto o the concert on page 1, with a bold headline rKorean wave has h