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Page 1: Le Cercle # 11

11

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coco-noir.chanel.com

Through black… light revealed

dp_coco_noir_420x270_lecercle_gb.indd 1-2 13/07/12 13:05

Page 3: Le Cercle # 11

coco-noir.chanel.com

Through black… light revealed

dp_coco_noir_420x270_lecercle_gb.indd 1-2 13/07/12 13:05

Page 4: Le Cercle # 11

Collection Couture Automne- Hiver 2012-2013

www.georgeschakra.com

Edition (Le Cercle 42x27cm)2.indd 2-3 9/20/12 10:48 AM

Page 5: Le Cercle # 11

Collection Couture Automne- Hiver 2012-2013

www.georgeschakra.com

Edition (Le Cercle 42x27cm)2.indd 2-3 9/20/12 10:48 AM

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monster chair by moooi

Photography concept by erwin olaf  & marcel Wanders.

publisher:City News Privilege

on behalf of Le Cercle Hitti

editor in chief :

Anastasia Nysten

managing editor:

Helen Assaf

graphic design:

Genia Kodash

printer:

RAIDY | www.raidy.com

contributors:

Alia Fawaz

Dan Bratman

Fernande Van Tets

India Stoughton

Louis Parks

Miriam Dunn

Owen Adams

Thomas Kinealy

advertising:

[email protected]

t: +961 3 852 899

The sun is seT Ting on another summer season, casting a warm, hazy glow over life. as it’s still the perfect climate to relish life outdoors before autumn’s breezes take hold, in this issue you can find stylish alfresco designs to enhance the ambiance.this issue we’re also heading for the coast and dipping our toes in the sea with a selection of architecture inspired by their waterside locations. taking things indoors, but still making a splash, we bring you the story behind one of Zaha hadid’s latest masterpieces, the London aquatics center, conceived for the London olympics 2012.crossing the channel to the French capital, Le cercle checks out the fresh slice of French style being served up at the Paris mandarin oriental with the help of Ligne roset. the prestigious French brand has also been working its magic on one of the 20th century’s greatest French designers, Pierre Paulin, reviving three of his designs for a new audience.and if all of that has left you with an appetite for more, there’s still plenty to sate you with not one but two unique dining experiences conjured up by Dutch design wizard moooi between our pages. bon aPPétit!

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monster chair by moooi

Photography concept by erwin olaf  & marcel Wanders.

PARK VIEW BUILDING, BOULEVARD DU PARC - BEIRUT T. +961 1 99 21 16 CHARLES MALEK AVE., ELLIPSE CENTER - ASHRAFIEH, LEBANON T. +961 1 20 00 01

WWW.WSAL A MOON.COM

wss_earrings_21x27_wss_earrings_21x27 8/22/11 3:02 AM Page 1

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moods

the autumnwishlisT

sosiemartino D’esPosito

cloth stand with structure in brilliant-

chromed steel and swiveling miror

Ligne roset

loTustabLeWaresiW matZen

Porcelain plate

Ligne roset

ePlAFtous Les trois

Fruit bowl in laser-cut sheet steel finished

in gloss white lacquer or fruit bowl in

gloss nickeled laser-cut sheet steel.

Ligne roset

goes window shopping for

some of this season’s must-have purchases.

mATChcuPsclear glass, 6 tumblers

in 3 different shapes

Ligne roset

PlATinumbaobabcandle colleciton

baobab

CuTcuPsPhiLiPPe Daney

clear glass

available in 3 different sizes

Ligne roset

Page 19: Le Cercle # 11

moods

emPerortabLelAmPneri & hu

bamboo rattan cage, aluminum frame and

glass diffuser.

Ø35, h.60 cm

moooi

deAringoron giLaD

Powder coated steel, black or white

Ø min. 80/max. 240 x 50 cm

moooi

BirdsLamPWhite ceramic birds and buri lamp shade.

Leather handle.

base in white lacquered metal

h. 75cm / h. 170cm

roche bobois

olivenuméro 111

shade in epoxy lacquered steel

W.40 x D. 24 x h.43 cm

Ligne roset

BigbenmarceL WanDers

Fibreglass with powder coated

aluminum hands

Ø180cm

moooi

Peyenuméro 111

shade in composite material: fiberglass

and injected polyester resin

W. 80 x D. 95 x h. 188 cm

Ligne roset

The Dear Ingo is now officially part of the

permanent collection of the art institute of Chicago

Page 20: Le Cercle # 11

sTumPLoWTABlePierre charPin

grey-veined white carrara marble, hewn

from one piece

W. 30cm x D. 36cm x h. 45cm

Ligne roset

moods

orAÏtoora Ïto

roche bobois

sAgAbuFFetchristoPhe DeLcourt

4 doors, interior in tulip wood, exterior in

lacquer finish.

W.210 x D.55 x h.77 cm

roche bobois

ToBi-ishidiningtabLeeDWarD barber & Jay osgerby

structural polyurethane foam and wooden

top treated with cement grout

Ø162, h.72.5 cm

b&b itaLia

merALoWTABleantonio citterio

top in white statuario marble with

tapered edge. circular metal structure

with different finishes

available in 4 different sizes and heights

b&b itaLia

miriAPodebookcaseDuxilon, curved structure with alternating

thickness. matte lacquer finish

W. 26.6cm x D. 39cm x h. 165cm

roche bobois

Page 21: Le Cercle # 11

moods

BAskeTTonePierre charPin

black-stained ash

Ø50, h.54 cm

Ligne roset

viCTorLuigi gorgoni

Pmma veneer on particle boards. interior

in taupe with with glass shelves

W.54 x D.51 x h.181 cm

roche bobois

Bow enD TABlePiks Design

solid wood legs in oak tint/acacia oil.

aluminum lacquered resin top

W.60 x D.40 x h.60 cm

roche bobois

AlTdeuTsChe CABineTstuDio Job

solid pine and pine veneer. hand painted

W.135 x D.50 x h.190 cm

moooi

CirCus FreD rieFFeL

glass cocktail table

Ø110, h.31 cm

roche bobois

ConTAinerneWAnTiques tabLe

marceL WanDers

Pe

Ø56, h.71 cm

moooi

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swingresTDanieL PouZet

Ø195 cm

DeDon

moods

serPenTine inDoor/ouTdoor armchair

eLéonore naLet

Polyester/epoxy lacquered metal

structure, 100% acrylic fabric (tempête)

W. 78 x D. 58 x h. 74 cm

Ligne roset

dAlAstePhen burks

Powder coated frame of

extruded aluminum mesh. Fiber.

Ø88 cm

DeDon

seAXchairJean-marie massauD

W.54 x D.53 x h.86 cm

DeDon

grillAge Francois aZembourg

Wire mesh

W. 155 x D. 70 x h. 72 cm

Ligne roset

FedroLorenZa boZZoLLi

colors scheme inspired by Latin

american tropical birds

DeDon

*available January 2013 *available January 2013

*available January 2013

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moods

hyBridenoé DuchauFour-LaWrance

medium settee

W.180 x D.98 x h.63/87 cm

Ligne roset

Pli maurice marty

Frame in 10mm altuglas

W. 40 x D. 49 x h. 90cm

roche bobois

FolkbenJamin grainDorge

black ash

W. 42 x D. 54.3 x h. 83cm

Ligne roset

TuFTy-tooPatricia urquioLa

available in various dimensions

b&b itaLia

lovePaPiLLio naoto FukasaWa

W. 145.5 x D. 93 x h. 102 3cm

b&b itaLia

ChrisTerAmarceLLo ZiLiani

100% aluminum chair

W. 44 x D. 53 x h. 60 cm

roche bobois

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The ebb and flow of waTer proved To be

The perfecT inspiraTion for

pioneering archiTecT Zaha hadid’s laTesT

high-profile projecT

W o r d s : M i r i a M D u n n

P h o t o s : H u f t o n + C r o w

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Innovative, influential and a true

trailblazer, the award-winning

architect Zaha Hadid has long

championed the concept of

creating buildings as landscapes,

shaping structures and spaces within

them to give the impression that they

flow like a river.

The ebb and flow of water

certainly served as ideal inspiration for the

london aquatics center, which features

her trademark multiple perspective points

and use of fragmented geometry.

when british olympic hopeful

Tom daley made the first dive into the

center’s pool to mark its completion, many

agreed with the international olympic

committee chairman jacques rogge’s

description of the project as

“a masterpiece”.

The center, which serves as

the hub of london’s olympic park

welcoming many of the world’s greatest

swimmers and divers for london 2012,

reinforced hadid’s reputation as a pioneer

in her field around the world. conjuring up

the fluid geometries of water in motion,

hadid also achieved her other goal of

creating spaces and a surrounding

environment which reflected the riverside

landscapes of the park. carrying the aquatic

theme through to conclusion, the

undulating roof, which encloses the three

pools of the center with a unifying gesture

of fluidity, sweeps up from the ground in

the shape of a wave.

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a Tower ThaT reflecTs many journeys

W o r d s : t H o M a s K i n e a l y

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This summer’s London 2012

Olympic Games saw the

birth of Britain’s largest

sculptural work. it is, of

course, the 115 meter high

arcelormittal orbit tower. The sculpture and

observation tower was designed by indian-

born british sculptor anish Kapoor and sri

lankan-british architect cecil balmond. The

tower has been praised for its bold and

unique design that challenges the viewer’s

perception of stability, structure and

engineering. The sculpture is intended to

be a permanent lasting legacy of the

olympic games but Kapoor insists that the

artwork will take on its own significance

and meaning long after the competition

has finished.

Turner prize-winning sculptor

Kapoor has stated that the design of the

structure was inspired by the Tower of

babel, an imaginative concept of

construction that challenges our pre-

conceptions of what is possible in

engineering without compromising the

artistic vision. it was also important for the

creators that the sculpture was interactive,

allowing people to become part of the

work as they look down upon the olympic

arena.

The name, according to

Kapoor, was inspired by the idea of

escalation, of moving upwards and by the

continuous journey that the athletes

undertake in their striving for sporting

immortality. it is this idea of ‘the journey’

that perhaps Kapoor is referring to when he

talks of the sculpture taking on its own

meaning after the games have finished, for

while it represents the athletes journey for

the remainder of the competition, perhaps

it will encompass the journey that everyday

people go through throughout their lives.

The Orbit opened on 28 July, with tickets

available to those who already hold

Olympic tickets. After the games it will be

open to the general public.

For information visit

www.arcelormittalorbit.com

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reflectionsOn THe SeA

le cercle heads for The coasT in

a looK aT archiTecTure inspired by iTs

waTerside locaTion

W o r d s : o w e n a D a M s

lon

G s

tu

Dio

, Jo

e B

att’

s a

rm, f

og

o is

lan

d, n

ew

fou

nd

lan

d, C

anad

a; P

ub

licat

ion

Dra

win

g

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THe CHALLenGe FOr Any rIGHT-THInkInG

architect is how to make a statement without intruding

on the natural environment. The architect describes the

prefabricated studios as “strangely familiar”. The long

studio, one of six artists’ studios dotted around the tiny

north atlantic fogo island, due south of greenland in

canada’s newfoundland, plus a 29-room boutique

fogo inn, has a distinctly two-dimensional flat-pack

appearance. The linear structure on stilts was designed

by Todd saunders from norway. based on local

fishermen’s houses, the structures were designed with

a brief to carry the “soul” of the island, and the interior

was also angled so nothing detracts from the

surrounding rough beauty. organised to form three

sections, the open entrance represents springtime,

while the central wing is exposed to the elements for

‘plein air’ summers. The end and main body is fully

enclosed for winter protection and solitude. large

windows and skylights abound, allowing the resident

artist an intimate connection with the landscape.

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edwArd HOPPer CAuSed quITe A STIr wITH HIS

1951 surrealist painting rooms by The sea – a rendering

of his studio made to look as if it was out at sea.

architect couple michiyo and yasutaka yoshimura have

achieved the same effect, this time in concrete reality.

Their ‘nowhere but sajima’ holiday home – yours for a

week for several thousand dollars – their third

‘nowhere but…’ rental holiday project, is just an hour

from Tokyo. The triangular block of tubular structures,

an enthralling geometric interplay of circles, squares

and equilateral triangles, is accessed from a busy city

road, but once inside, it’s solely about the pacific

ocean. The living spaces jut out over the sea wall,

creating an astonishing primal and elemental floating or

suspension effect. nearby nowhere but hayama,

constrastingly, is a restructured and renovated

traditional 1930s- built japanese two-storey wooden

house, 30 seconds from issiki beach and next to the

imperial family’s holiday home. new twisting

woodblock stairs and four modern units were created

sympathetically within the building, when it needed

seismic upgrades.

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AT FIrST GLAnCe IT LOOkS LIke A BOAT, jAmmed

into a sandstone rock looking out to the Tasman sea.

The bronte cutting was carved from the headland for a

tramline more than a century ago, and architect chris

elliot found an ingenious way of fitting a designer

home in the available cleft – working in harmony with

the anomalous space, rather than trying to transcend it.

designed for a family of four, everyday living takes

place on a predominantly glass-walled platform

overlooking the sea. a cocoon-like rectangular box

bedroom is mounted above the main space with

curved “light scoops” for selective sky lighting, and

above all this there is a belvedere or lookout in the

form of a martello tower, with a sundeck complete with

fireplace from which to contemplate the ocean and

stars at night. There’s also a grotto basement, with

water seeping into a shallow reflecting pool with bridge

and an outdoor bath. no air conditioning is required, as

sea breezes, thermal mass and double layered curtains

control the temperature naturally.

© riCHarD GloVer

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VIewed FrOm A SHIP rATHer THAn BeInG CASTLe-

like in its imposing lofty location, this gleaming,

minimalist breathtaking cuboid shyly peep outs from a

remote cliff 159 metres up from the shimmering

mediterranean, somewhere in mallorca or ibiza. The

location is a mystery, as is the 2002 building’s

acronymic name – fittingly kept secret, as belgian firm

atelier d’architecture bruno erpicum & partners

compares the aibs house to a rippled natural land

staircase you might find at the dead end of a path or

road, at one with its surrounds, beyond civilisation. all

living areas within the 400sq metres floorspace are

enclosed by one colossal window frame looking out

from the island. To the side, down a crevice, is an

utterly private infinity pool. “under blue skies the

building appears calm and serene whilst in stormy

weather it has a striking and tormented air about it,”

says bruno erpicum.

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l’art de vivreby roche bobois

See www.roche-bobois.com for collections, news and catalogues

Tangram modular curved sofa, design Gabriele Assmann and Alfred Kleene.Marmo round cocktail tables, design Daniel Rode.

European Manufacture

Phot

o: M

iche

l Gib

ert.

BEIRUT DOWNTOWN 33 rue Weygand Tel: +961 1 986 888/[email protected]

Page 47: Le Cercle # 11

l’art de vivreby roche bobois

See www.roche-bobois.com for collections, news and catalogues

Tangram modular curved sofa, design Gabriele Assmann and Alfred Kleene.Marmo round cocktail tables, design Daniel Rode.

European Manufacture

Phot

o: M

iche

l Gib

ert.

BEIRUT DOWNTOWN 33 rue Weygand Tel: +961 1 986 888/[email protected]

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a triplex treasure

A spectacular triplex in

Ashrafieh is the scene of

Dori Hitti’s latest project.

Owned by a prominent

property developer, and

designed to appeal to two generations at

once, the breathtaking details and

unbelievable views of Beirut make this

one of the city’s most distinctive

residences.

Comprising the final three

floors of its building, the apartment is a

self-contained haven amidst the bustle of

Beirut, with the penthouse offering

glorious vistas of the city skyline. “the

residence is luxurious and contemporary,

W o r d s : l O u i s p a r k s

P h o t o s : M a n s O u r D i B

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but with a classic ambiance that fits the

mood of the owner,” says Hitti. alongside

Hitti’s signature minimalism and clean lines

there’s room for sculptures, classical

fountains, original stonework and columns.

Built for a family, the triplex

caters for both the parents and their

children; the first floor comprises the main

living area, and embraces classical touches,

while the terrace area and the penthouse

floor have a more youthful feel with a

striking monumental staircase linking the

two. “the only link between the two floors

were the building stairs, so we had to do all

this ourselves, getting the dimensions right

was very challenging,” says Hitti. the

penthouse itself is a self-contained

Page 51: Le Cercle # 11

apartment and forms what Hitti describes

as a “villa in the skyline of Beirut,” a unique

concept in the city.

“We shape our artistic visions

of interior to achieve practical results,

which covers not only style, but aspects of

interior architecture, safety, beauty, comfort

and satisfaction for our clients,” says Hitti,

and nowhere is this clearer than in the

incorporation of original stonework in the

walls of the apartment. Making use of the

original stones allowed Hitti to complement

the more classical elements of the triplex

with truly authentic architectural detailing,

blending past and present.

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it’s hard to pick a standout feature, but

pride of place must go to the outside pool,

blending as it does with the interior of the

apartment, “the residence enjoys the

integration of the outdoor pool inside the

apartment, creating an adventurous

location with stunning views of the water.

You’re really spoiled for choice here, the

room and pool are just so adaptable,” says

Hitti. With such a blend of style and

attention to detail, the pool and decking

forms one of the most distinctive, desirable

lounge areas in Beirut and the atmosphere

has to be enjoyed to be believed.

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cabinet power

W o r d s : O W e n a D a M s

Page 59: Le Cercle # 11

Many of the earliest

televisions and

gramophones came in

solid wood cabinets, as

integrated units

including the speaker. later, stereo

separates and speaker systems turned living

rooms into a spaghetti junction of wires,

power leads and electronic boxes. But now,

fine cabinet-making and the latest all-in-one

technology has been fused to create the

Geneva sound system Model xxl.

exquisitely made in switzerland

– the home of the cuckoo-clock and hub of

time-telling technology – the sleek white (red,

or black) piano-lacquered wood credenza is a

super-modern expression of the all-in-one

cabinet systems of the early 20th-century.

each american walnut veneer cabinet is

hand-made at every stage, laboriously buffed

and polished, with up to eight layers of piano

lacquer applied. Geneva’s sound systems are

being hailed as the steinways of the ipod

generation.

the timeless craftsmanship on

the outside belies the techno-core of the

interior, a hidden nerve center. it houses

seven individually powered surround-sound

speakers, including a mighty subwoofer, and

five different acoustic chambers, handled by

seven 589-Watt digital amplifiers. Geneva’s

own patented embracingsound speaker

system distributes sound throughout the

room from a single compact space.

However much you move around, Geneva’s

technology ensures the distance to the right

and left speaker remains the same.

the half-meter high xxl is

designed to support up to a 65-inch

flatscreen tV – which can be wall-

mounted or rest on top of the unit. inside

the enigmatic unit is also an FM and

digital radio, a slot-loading CD player,

and an ipod/iphone universal dock that

also streams video to the tV, with apple

airplay. there’s plenty of space inside

the 168cm-wide, 56cm-deep cabinet

to store DVD players, Blu-ray, game

consoles and other devices. the

“media center” has adjustable

shelves.

Designed to fit in the

home as well as a lamp, Geneva

sound system’s Model xxl is

sustainable, stylish,

sophisticated and simple,

all in one.

01020304

0506070809101112131415161718 Shopping1920 212223242526 Architecture2728 2930313233343536373839404142434445464748 Interiors & Products49505152535455565758596061626364656667686970717273747576777879808182838485868788899091 Outdoors9293949596

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101102 Art & Culture103

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118119

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Interiors & Products 4849505152535455565758596061626364656667686970717273747576777879 80

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Art & Culture 102103104105106107108109110111112113114115

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The last thing you need first

thing in the morning is

fumbling with buttons while

you’re still half in

dreamland. What if you press

the ‘alarm off’ button on your mobile

phone or clock-radio instead of ‘snooze’?

stress central! so punkt has designed its aC

01 to be an alarm clock, pure and simple,

that won’t let you down.

the design (in white, red or

black) looks fabulous, but it’s the ultimate in

functionality and the simplicity is just

breathtaking. the swiss manufacturer, with

British art director Jasper Morrison on

board, made its debut last year with the Dp

01 cordless phone at the Maison et Objet

expo in paris. the aC 01 continues punkt’s

back-to-basics ethos of “one device, one

function”.

“punkt sets out to make life

simpler, going back to the origins of

consumer electronics,” says the company’s

mission statement. “We believe in one

device, one function.”

punkt is also bucking

throwaway culture with products built to

last. the aC 01’s dial is protected by thick

scratch-proof glass, and a solid aluminium

body, plus as it only performs simple

functions - long-lasting batteries.

Designer Jasper Morrison

placed the clock face in a round hole,

angled with an l-shaped aluminium stand

or holder. a rocker-switch on the outside of

the clock face turns the alarm or off, and a

small window below the 12 shows its

status.

snoozing has never been

simpler – you can give yourself another five

minutes’ shuteye by just pressing the back

of the clock. a gentle squeeze lights up the

clock face, but the luminescent arms and

dial glow in the dark without the light.

With such a pure and iconic

aesthetic, punkt’s aC 01 should become a

permanent fixture rather than a fad gadget.

“What do people want?

products built to do a job, and do that job

well,” punkt insists. Waking up on the right

side of bed thanks to a handsome – and

reliable - alarm clock is a good start.

W o r d s : O W e n a D a M s

a wake-up call for design

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Page 65: Le Cercle # 11

A Pierre Paulin

revIvAlW o r d s : O w e n A d A m s

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IF DeSIgner PIerre PAulIn MADe

modernism both functional and sublime as

solid objects, composer pierre Boulez was

also applying mathematics and engineering

in music. Boulez’s Dérive 2 turns notions

about modernist music being awkward and

jarring on its head. Featuring 11 instruments,

it is defiantly atonal but also supremely

pleasing on the ear, a polyphonic tapestry

with harp at the forefront, beguiling at every

turn, and layered in stages between 1988

and 2006.

shortly after its prototype Dérive

1 was produced, in 1985 Claude pompidou,

the widow of former French president

Georges, privately commissioned paulin to

produce a rocking armchair to give as a 60th

birthday-gift to her friend Boulez. presumably

the ergonomically-considered rocking motion

helped articulate his rebellion against one-off

definitive compositions in favour of

“periodicity” – which he described as “a

permanent discovering rather like the state of

permanent revolution”.

paulin only made two

prototypes of the rocking chairs but the

concept was far too valuable to be forgotten:

his original designs were kept by his widow

Maia. now, in 2012, ligne roset has used

them and put the armchair into production for

the first time, naming it Dérive 2 in homage to

pierre Boulez. the smooth shape of its tilting

structure evokes a harp or tuning fork, and the

fluid lines can make the chair appear as if it’s in

perpetual motion. Made from multi-ply, held

together by beech struts, with MDF and steel

used in the seat and back, black rubber gliders,

and filled with foam and polyester quilting, this

must be the ultimate expression of enduring

modernity.

PIerre PAulIn’S wOrk SPAnneD 50

years, his philosophy of “design with intent”

intertwined with egalitarianism – itself a

central tenet of the French republic.

paulin’s visionary communal seating pods,

his ‘tongue’ sofa which could be extended

interminably for large groups – his

graphically pure, harmonious-form

creations invite themselves to be enjoyed

by everyone, not only bespoke patrons and

collectors.

paulin transformed public

spaces, such as railway stations in paris,

with his inclusive social furnishing, and

when asked by president Georges

pompidou to give the elysée palace a

modern revamp in 1970, he created an

uncluttered living space, mixing comfort

with functionality, such as through a

compact set of tangerine-like seating

segments that could be readily re-arranged.

in contrast to some of the op-

art and aluminum wall the pompidous

commissioned from other 20th-century

luminaries, paulin’s set is gentle on the eye,

low-impact and just generally easy-going

and almost universally irresistible.

and the flexible furniture forms

work as well in apartments with space at a

premium. last year, ligne roset introduced

the elysée modular shelving system and

multi-layered pedestal tables. now the

manufacturer has followed paulin’s original

designs and reproduced the elysée sofa,

armchair and ottoman collection for all

domiciles. While utterly faithful to paulin’s

archived plans, the manufacturers have

used multi-density foams and techniques

that are at the very cutting edge for 2012,

bringing paulin’s vision ever forward.

PIerre PAulIn PASSeD AwAy THree

years ago after decades of transforming

homes and public spaces with his playful,

witty and warm modernist masterpieces,

but his designs live on and retain an alluring

contemporary edge. paulin’s designs are

infused with joy and playfulness, and

harmoniously in tune with the natural

environment, made from plastic, steel or

traditional materials.

not only did paulin

incorporate organic forms such as the

mushroom and tulip into revolutionary

furniture, breathing new life into living

rooms, but he peeled back the layers of

history and created modern icons from its

roots.

new from ligne roset,

custodians of paulin’s legacy, is a hand-

tufted wool rug, sculpted with tufts of

various heights, with the tribal motif based

on sketches produced by paulin.

paulin, who was born in paris

and later lived in the mountainous

Cévennes region of southern France,

travelled north-west to the tiny island of

Gavrinis, just off the coast of Brittany, and

turned 6,000-year old stone markings on a

tomb into pop-art iconography.

shown in the catalogue in red

and white, there is actually a choice of 48

colors for the background and motif – 24

‘natural’ hues, and 24 ‘flashy’ ones, catering

for different tastes – modern-megalithic,

you might call it.

A Pierre Paulin

revIvAl

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A fresh slice of french style W o r d s : A l i A f A w A z

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Architecture 2627

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Interiors & Products 4849505152535455565758596061626364656667686970717273747576777879 80

81828384858687888990

Outdoors 919293949596979899

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Art & Culture 102103104105106107108109110111112113114115

Fashion 116117118119120121122123124

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conceived the four indoor spaces and

garden as a totality. On one side of the

garden is the haute cuisine restaurant, sur

Mesure, accompanied by Bar 8. On the

other side you find the all-day Café Camelia

and the Cake shop.

every space allows for a

unique experience: the gastronomic

restaurant is an elegant white space which

looks like a cozy cocoon. the walls and

ceiling are draped in white fabric with light

that comes from the center completing the

sophisticated atmosphere from the

restaurant. For Camélia the designs are on

a lighter scale, with walls sculpted to the

shape of white camellia flower petals. the

chairs also have a soft organic feel, all done

in white and wood. lightness being the

dominant theme, the whole space is a

continuation of the indoor landscape

garden.

the crowning glory is,

above: royal Mandarin

suite terrace

opposite: sur Mesure par

thierry marxIn the majestic city of Paris and

just a stone’s throw away from

the louvre and all the highly

coveted designer shops, the

stunning Mandarin Oriental Hotel

proudly sits on the uber stylish rue

Saint-Honore in a striking deco-inspired

building.

For this latest edition of the

internationally successful hotel group (it

opened its doors in June 2011), it was

essential to source the finest talent for

designing the dining outlets. after fierce

competition renowned French architect

and designer patrick Jouin and his team

finally won this enviable opportunity.

Jouin had at this point already established a

name for his restaurant designs working for

famed chef alain Ducasse.

Hailed for his ability to

combine functionality of objects and

design of space, Jouin and his team

Page 72: Le Cercle # 11

however, Bar 8 which exudes

parisian luxury and

sophistication. the centerpiece

is a dramatic marble bar,

quarried in spain and sculpted

in italy. the wood walls are

inlaid with lalique crystals like

delicate raindrops reprising the

natural elements – a main

feature of the hotel’s design.

the tables spill out onto the

terrace - perfect for summer

evening cocktails. Jouin also

filled the room with his elegant

and comfortable lou armchairs,

manufactured by master

furniture and interior makers

ligne roset.

asked about the

design process Jouin explains:

“We wanted to create

something very parisian, very

refined and at the same time

intimate and unexpected. a

radical experience and that

brings an emotion of beauty, a

parisian emotion.”

01_____premier suite

terrace living room

02_____paris Couture suite

living room

03_____Camelia

04_____paris royale

Mandarin living room

05_____premier suite

terrace Bedroom

01

02

05

04

03

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W o r d s : O W e n a D a M s

P h o t o s : J O Y V O n t i e D e M a n n

Page 75: Le Cercle # 11

COnnOisseurs Of itAliAn Cuisine CAn enjOy nOt Only A sensuAl, but A CelestiAl experienCe in the heArt Of tOrOntO, tO ACCOmpAny CAlAmAri fritti with AgrO dOlCe.

Page 76: Le Cercle # 11

Aria ristorante is a fitting

name for such an airy space.

it has a dramatic 35-foot

ceiling that recalls a grand

opera house. While, aside

from a luminous wine wall, the general

décor is in muted beiges and greys, toronto

designer urszula tokarska’s creative

explosion takes place overhead.

seemingly orbiting a web of

sculptural linear forms, a galaxy of raimond

spheres gives the impression from a

distance that fireworks are bursting over the

tables, while if you’re sat under the

ingenious geodesic-dome-style leD

chandeliers, the lights are soft, more like a

starry, starry night than a meteor shower.

tokarska, of the Canadian city

firm stephen r pile architects, called on the

visionary Dutch design upstart Moooi for

this spectacular - and ecologically-sound,

low-wattage - solution, known as

suspension lighting.

raimond puts, aged in his 70s,

lives on a house-boat in amsterdam, close

to Moooi’s headquarters in the Dutch

capital’s creative hub, Westerhuis in

Jordaan. For 30 years he’s tinkered with

machines and fixed them for a living,

inventing new ones in his spare time,

making good use of salvaged components,

in a distinct echo of Moooi’s magpie love of

‘upcycling’ (recycling, but with a far superior

end product).

raimond’s wholly self-taught

skills led to years of painstaking experiments

with leD lights, circuitry and creating a

perfect grid of stainless-steel triangles in the

form of a geodesic double-spherical dome.

leD bulbs are placed on the

nodes, the ‘spring’ steel cord and two

terminals act as conductors and – as a final

touch – each bulb is treated with special

lenses to ensure an even spread of warm

white light in all directions, so they don’t

cause a distraction for the people sat

underneath.

unveiled in 2006 to universal

acclaim, the raimond, made by puts in

association with Ox-iD, is perhaps Moooi’s

biggest icon-making achievement, a

fantastic yet utilitarian synching of science,

mathematics and art. Combining beauty

with functionality, the raimond – available

in several sizes (from 43cm to 199cm

diameter, containing between 92 and 252

leD lights apiece), as seen in tokarska’s

inventive aria arrangement, and now also

available in lamp and 20W pendant form,

and in an elliptical form, the raimond Zafu

– is a stunning example of how to get

maximum effect using minimum means.

Page 77: Le Cercle # 11

A Tale of Istanbul...Rixos Pera IstanbulThe story, set within the historical peninsula and Golden Horn,is coming alive once more. Magnificent history meets with contemporary comfort and well-known gourmet venues, at Rixos Pera Istanbul.

www.rixos.com Kamerhatun Mah. Meşrutiyet Cad. No:44 Tepebaşı TAKSIM - ISTANBUL / TURKEY T: +90 212 377 70 00

Page 78: Le Cercle # 11

W o r d s : O W e n a D a M s

P h o t o s : n i C O l e M a r n a t i

MOOOi is a DutCH WOrD FOr BeautY, WitH an extra O aDDeD FOr BranD uniqueness. sinCe its FOunDatiOn Just 12 Years aGO, DesiGner MarCel WanDers’s pOWerHOuse Has CreateD a BuZZinG neW artistiC HuB at WesterHuis in aMsterDaM, anD prOJeCteD it OntO tHe WOrlD staGe.

Page 79: Le Cercle # 11

Collaborating designers and

staff don’t come into work

at Moooi if they’re having

a down day - wanders

believes that a piece of

furniture or décor must be created with

positive energy, as well as a sense of fun.

add social compassion balanced by a

celebration of individuality, and empathy

with the planet to the equation, and Moooi

has achieved an organic synthesis of artful

beauty, functionalism and ‘econo’

utilitarianism. in artistic terms, this is where

classical extravagance meets modernist

minimalism.

in the past few years, Moooi

have masterminded the interiors of

restaurants in new York, Milan and london,

but the company returned to its roots in the

city of Breda to furnish an assemblage

selected by suzy Vissers for the a la carte

Michelin-starred restaurant Wolfslaar, the

former coach house on a 300-year-old

country estate.

the raimond lights, like

suspended constellations, are

complemented with richard Hutten’s

Dandelion lighting - inspired by ‘dandelion

snow’ when a breeze hits the flower’s fuzzy

seeds. the lamp self-generates energy to

simulate an explosion in motion, blowing

away tension.

studio Job’s paper table

lamps, mounted on a wooden base, with

cardboard frame, are manufactured in the

same way as modern-day furniture, but as

an ode to classical style and to the origami

joy of paper.

the egg Vase was one of

Marcel Wanders’s earlier designs, from

Page 80: Le Cercle # 11

1997, when he first made his name with the

knotted Chair – and is typical of his

inventive and playful use of everyday

objects, like Dada turned on its head to

form a functioning actuality. the form of

the white porcelain trio was created,

Wanders says, by stuffing hard-boiled eggs

into latex.

Wanders’ Container table, the

80x80 model, also combines synthetic

media with universal natural form. an Hpl

panel, a fusion of resin and wood fibres,

with oak veneer, rests on a mushroom-like

single central leg.

the Monster chairs might be

fierce-looking fixtures in any room, but

once you get to know them, they’re lovely

and friendly. Wanders created the “soft,

puffy and stylish chair” to symbolise life’s

eternal battles against opposing forces.

“scary? not at all!” he says. “You forget all

about the monster once you sit down and

enjoy the chair’s comfort and softness.”

in playful contrast, the atelier

Van lieshout (aVl) barstool celebrates the

ergonomic genius of the shaker furniture of

old, traditional craftsmanship in solid oak,

brought sharply up to date with lacquer.

the Moooi experience at

Wolfslaar is complete with the Delft Blue 6

range of vases – designed by Wanders,

produced and decorated at royal Delft, in a

reinterpretation of the ceramics produced

by the prized Dutch company since 1653.

the partnership between historic and

contemporary is yet another string to

Moooi’s classical-modernist bow, and

segues neatly into Wolfslaar’s concept of

modern dining in an ancient setting.

Page 81: Le Cercle # 11
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St. PetersburgaristOCratiC GlaMOur anD leGaCY Meets italian MODern DesiGn

W o r d s : a l i a F a W a Z

Page 83: Le Cercle # 11

ever since it opened its very

first location in new york

back in 1998, the upscale

hotel lifestyle brand w has

become recognized for

cleverly fusing cutting-edge design with

local influences. the W Hotel in the

former russian capital st. petersburg is no

exception to this signature maverick design

approach.

W st. petersburg, which

opened its doors in april 2011, marks the

hotel group’s first foray in russia. it is

strategically located in the center of the

historical “Venice of the north” next to st.

isaac’s Cathedral, near the lavish Winter

palace with its famed Hermitage Museum.

it is also a short stroll from the spectacular

neva river.

at the helm of the 137-room

hotel’s interior design was the Milan-based

antonio Citterio & patricia Viel partners

team. award-winning architect and

designer Citterio, who also designs Maxalto

for B&B italia, brought an unmistakable

italian touch giving the hotel a modern

personality whilst embracing the historic

grandeur of the city.

Citterio felt there was no

better inspiration for the hotel than what

was all around it. taking this approach as

the driving force, he and his design team

used the architectural ancestry of the city

and rich colors of the famous Faberge egg

to decorate the interiors.

the result is a tantalizing array

of jewel tones: rich reds, luxurious golds

and opulent greens fill the open space

Page 84: Le Cercle # 11

through plush and contemporary

upholstered chairs, low, tall, semi-enclosed

sofas and chaise longues, which are

scattered with velvet and satin cushions,

and sit among shining side tables of

stainless steel.

above the grand furniture are

over-sized, jeweled pendant lights in shades

of copper. Other lighting includes partly

concealed strip lighting and floor lamps in

beige and brown.

Focus is drawn to a seemingly

floating sculpture created by italian artist

Jacopo Foggini and made using melted

acrylic. next to it is a modern fireplace with

surrounding shelves covered with stylish

trinkets, bold vases and imagination-fueling

books.

Guest rooms are more

understated in their color palette than the

public areas, with beige and soft gold being

used, but jewel tones are nevertheless

utilized, with magenta upholstered chaise

longues and cushions as standout features.

B&B italia’s innovative

furnishing and fixtures are generously used

and are cleverly combined to bring to life

Citterio’s sumptuous interiors. as a result

the designers have truly offered the W

Hotel st. petersburg a fresh contemporary

look while paying true homage to the

graceful details of the city’s historic

elegance that deserves to shine…

Page 85: Le Cercle # 11
Page 86: Le Cercle # 11

AN NAHAR BLDG, +961 1 971 444/555 ZOUK HIGHWAY, +961 9 217 744/55 RING HIGHWAY, +961 1 971 573 555

AN NAHAR BLDG, +961 1 971 444/555 ZOUK HIGHWAY, +961 9 217 744/55 RING HIGHWAY, +961 1 971 573 555

Page 87: Le Cercle # 11

AN NAHAR BLDG, +961 1 971 444/555 ZOUK HIGHWAY, +961 9 217 744/55 RING HIGHWAY, +961 1 971 573 555

AN NAHAR BLDG, +961 1 971 444/555 ZOUK HIGHWAY, +961 9 217 744/55 RING HIGHWAY, +961 1 971 573 555

Page 88: Le Cercle # 11

Con

cept

and

Sty

ling

Col

lage

Stu

dio.

Pho

to F

abriz

io B

erga

mo.

LE CERCLE BEIRUT - AN NAHAR BLDG DOWNTOWN

MARTYR SQUARE T.+961 1 971444 555

ZOUK HIGHWAY T. +961 9 217744/55

MAXALTO IS A B&B ITALIA BRAND. COLLECTION COORDINATED BY ANTONIO CITTERIO. [email protected] WWW.MAXALTO.IT

Page 89: Le Cercle # 11

Life in the open air doesn’t get more styLish than with furnishings and

accessories by some of the design worLd’s

greatest brands.

Let’s take it outside

Con

cept

and

Sty

ling

Col

lage

Stu

dio.

Pho

to F

abriz

io B

erga

mo.

LE CERCLE BEIRUT - AN NAHAR BLDG DOWNTOWN

MARTYR SQUARE T.+961 1 971444 555

ZOUK HIGHWAY T. +961 9 217744/55

MAXALTO IS A B&B ITALIA BRAND. COLLECTION COORDINATED BY ANTONIO CITTERIO. [email protected] WWW.MAXALTO.IT

01020304

0506070809101112131415161718 Shopping1920 212223242526 Architecture2728 2930313233343536373839404142434445464748 Interiors & Products49505152535455565758596061626364656667686970717273747576777879808182838485868788899091 Outdoors9293949596

979899100

101102 Art & Culture103

104105

106107108

109110111

112113

114115

116 Fashion117

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1 city camp, anette hinterwirth 2 summerLand, richard frinier 3 seaX, Jean-marie massaud 4 seaX, Jean-marie massaud 5 city camp, anette hinterwirth6 city camp, anette hinterwirth 7 summerLand, richard frinier 8 seaX, Jean-marie massaud

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1 2 3

54

6 7 8

Page 92: Le Cercle # 11

1 city camp, anette hinterwirth 2 seaX, Jean-marie massaud 3 seaX, Jean-marie massaud 4 seaX, Jean-marie massaud 5 city camp, anette hinterwirth6 city camp, anette hinterwirth 7 summerLand, richard frinier 8 seaX, Jean-marie massaud

Page 93: Le Cercle # 11

1 2 3

54

6 7 8

Page 94: Le Cercle # 11

1 fifty, dogg & arnved design 2 serpentine, eléonore nalet 3 serpentine, eléonore nalet

4 resiLLe, philippe nigro 5 resiLLe, philippe nigro 6 griLLage, françois azembourg 7 griLLage, françois

azembourg 8 fifty, dogg & arnved design

1 2

3 4

6 7 8

5

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1 canasta circuLar sofa, patricia urquiola 2 canasta armchair, patricia urquiola 3 crinoLine

chair, patricia urquiola 4 charLes outdoor, antonio citterio 5 crinoLine chair, patricia urquiola 6 springtime sofas, Jean-marie massaud 7 traveL, patricia urquiola 8 husk outdoor chair, patricia urquiola

1 2 3

4 5

6 7 8

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memory preserved

CorrespondenCes by Catherine DaviDW o r d s : F e r n a n D e v a n t e t s

Page 101: Le Cercle # 11

Curator Catherine David has

created a remarkable

exposition for the Beirut

Art Fair. For the first time

ever, the letters exchanged

between two great Arab intellectuals in

exile, the saudi writer Abdel rahman Munif

and the syrian painter Marwan, are shown

in Correspondences.

The two men met in the fifties

but would not start their friendship, in real

life and on paper, until the 90s. This exhibit

shows the fruit of that exchange which

ended with Munif’s death in 2004. Munif,

author of ‘city of salt’, a scathing five

volume critique of the saudi elite and how

the discovery of oil transformed the Gulf,

was living in exile in damascus at the time,

having been stripped of his saudi

citizenship. Marwan had become an

acclaimed painter in Germany, where he

fled to in 1957.

A deep friendship emerged,

and Munif would write the only monograph

on Marwan in existence today. In return,

Marwan painted the covers for Munif’s

books and many of Marwan’s letters are

richly illustrated with ideas for these, as well

as other illustrations. In addition, drawings

and water colours are exhibited along with

the letters. “Many are a first idea or a study

for a cover project,” says david.

The energetic curator has

known Marwan for many years and was

eager to showcase his work. The

correspondence with another great Arab

intellectual was especially relevant. “It is

possible to discern, between the lines, a

commentary on the current situation. In

different ways they are both kind of

exemplary of the situation of many Arab

intellectuals in 20th century exile.

For david, beirut was the

perfect place to show the exhibit: ”It makes

sense here; it is really important to bring

back a certain number of ideas, content

and intellectual issues, to the place they

were developed.”

david has worked with

regional artists for a long time, and her

interest pre-empted the current bonanza

for art from the region. “I would like to think

I am a little responsible for that,” she laughs.

she was attracted to modern art from the

region due to the lack of knowledge and

information about a “more open modern

moment”.

she has an avid interest in how

modern art is developing in the region, and

notes that independent of public spaces,

“there are very few museums” with art

mostly accumulated in private collections.

There is also a deficit in terms of

production of critical and historical

discourse, she says. “At the end of the day

there is a gap in transmission; one

generation is not aware of what the

generation before did. It is getting better,

but 10 years ago young artists were not

aware of who their predecessors were.”

she is keen to promote the

preservation of the archives of visionaries

who have only recently passed away; Munif

is but one example. As in the Arab world

many experts on culture are not academics,

and thus don’t produce any documentation

to leave behind, she is concerned about

how much work is lost when such a person

passes away. “I think it is important to have

a massive strategy to produce

documentation to keep the memory,” she

says.

Her next project reflects that

interest; it will focus on Aref el rayyes, the

eclectic Lebanese artist who passed away a

few years ago. “His daughter Alaa is very

keen,” says david. “We are thinking about

how to proceed.”

Catherine david

opposite: The letters

written by Marwan

are richly illustrated

For dAvId, beIruT WAs THe perFeCT pLACe To sHoW THe exHIbIT: ”IT MAkes sense Here; IT Is reALLy IMporTAnT To brInG bACk A CerTAIn nuMber oF IdeAs, ConTenT And InTeLLeCTuAL Issues, To THe pLACe THey Were deveLoped.”

Page 102: Le Cercle # 11

playful art in motion

IT’s noT oFTen you see ArT THAT AppeArs To

be In poIsed In MoTIon WHILsT FuLL oF HuMour

And enCHAnTMenT. onCe you seT eyes on A

pIeCe by FrenCH ArTIsT bernArd sAInT MAxenT IT

Is HArd noT To sMILe In An endeArInG sorT oF WAy

THAT brInGs ouT your Inner CHILd.

playful art in motion

Page 103: Le Cercle # 11

playful art in motion

Doodling since he was a

young boy, the entirely

self taught Saint Maxent

confesses that he did not

feel he was good enough

to draw, thus shifted his attention to

creating objects. He began to carve

wood, making sculptures of different

animals and even women. After years of

experimenting and producing, he decided

to merge the sculptures onto canvas with

his own light-hearted take on life. He also

followed his own ideas of new materials

and how to integrate them.

Most of his work revolves

around the pranks of a gangly character

that is like his alter ego. you often see this

character (or several) painting, climbing up

stairs, sitting on a ball, hanging from the

ceiling etc. “It is actually inspired by me,”

he says with a grin. Charming and boyish

looking himself, saint Maxent also takes

inspiration from the burlesque scenes of

buster keaton and Charlie Chaplin.

“My two boys aged five and

seven also give me ideas,” he says. The

pieces with the brightly coloured round

balls was a concept that came after

watching his little ones play with soap

bubbles in the garden. This series has also

become his best seller to date.

saint Maxent also likes to use

other themes such as giant puzzle pieces,

romantic hearts, big letters, and rich

blotches of spilt paint which are fun and

universal. Wherever you place his creations

they seem to instantly light up the walls and

space providing a breathtaking energy.

each of his canvases are

different and a “one off” because there is no

cast for making his figurines. They are

created with a metallic structure around

which he models with resin and then

applies a varnish. After a day he applies two

playful art in motionW o r d s : A L I A F A W A z

Page 104: Le Cercle # 11

coats of bronze paint and after another day

he finishes with a patina that looks like

bronze. They need to be lightweight so

that they can be sustained onto the canvas.

The individual sculptures on

the other hand are made of real bronze.

These are made from a bronze cast

producing eight pieces but once they are

treated with varnish and painted several

times they all end up different by the artist

- which means no two sculptures are ever

the same.

six years ago saint Maxent left

his birthplace of paris to settle his family in

an idyllic small town in the south west of

France called viellenave de navarrenx. An

hour from biarritz it has a mere population

of 177. Totally tranquil, secluded and

immersed in nature, it allows the artist to

focus on his meticulous work from his

atelier converted from a barn.

His buoyant concepts always

starts in his little notebook in which he

seems to be “furiously scribbling” ideas all

the time as his wife confesses. He then

resorts to his studio with constant “blasting

jazz and rock ‘n roll music”. The work

process is long-winded and slow with

multiple layers of varnish, retouching, drying

and waiting around. “This is why I usually

work on about a dozen pieces at a time,” he

explains.

His impressive body of work

has already been exhibited in paris, brussels,

London and most recently for the first time

in the Middle east at Les plumes Gallery in

beirut where he attended his solo

exhibition. A rising star, saint Maxent’s

playful and ingenious poetic installations

will surely capture our hearts for a long time

to come.

Les Plumes Gallery | +961 1 33 35 37

Page 105: Le Cercle # 11

-

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Thelion’ssmile

W o r d s : I n d I A s T o u G H T o n

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THouGH undenIAbLy

beAuTIFuL, MosT WILd AnIMALs Are ALso dAnGerous

-- deFInITeLy noT CreATures WHICH beLonG In your HoMe. As THe FAMous IrAqI poeT AL-

MuTAnAbbI onCe WroTe: “IF you see THe LIon’s TeeTH do noT

THInk THAT THe LIon Is sMILInG AT

you.”

Lovers of jungle creatures who

wish they could get closer to

these glorious but elusive

beasts will go wild for “Aki

Jungle” a collection of

painted and sculptural creatures from

Swedish artist Aki Zum. Her inventive

animals’ colorful faces are perpetually

friendly and endearing, in spite of their

pointed teeth. “They are friendly creatures

-- at times confused, but friendly,” the artist

explains. “often they are misunderstood

because of their sharp teeth and aggressive

expression. but if you look closely you can

see that they are not threatening at all.”

A refreshing exception to al-

Mutanabbi’s rule, zum’s creatures blend

feline eyes with strangely human noses and

sharp teeth bared in a snarl or a purr. some

are painted in cheerful contrasting shades,

reminiscent of tribal art, while other

creatures are three dimensional -- papier

maché masks or wall sculptures with thick

black outlines around their riotous colors. “I

have always been interested in mythological

creatures and stories,” reveals zum. “And of

course the art from ancient civilizations and

above: Aki Checkmate

opposite: Mucho michis

Page 110: Le Cercle # 11

traditional folklore.” These influences are

evident in her vibrant animals which seem to

have sprung into being from a fairy tale.

The artwork reflects the artist

herself in many ways, revealing her

fascination with the wild energy of the

jungle. “The feeling of it is jungle-esque,” she

explains. “Just because it is so intuitive it

doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s primitive.

The jungle is so wild [it] reminds me of my

own creative process - pure and from my

gut.”

Many of zum’s fantastic critters

contain feline elements -- together they look

like a strange breed of big cat that perhaps

lurks somewhere deep in the jungles of

south America, waiting to be discovered. “I

love cats and get annoyed with them at the

same time because they always get what

they want,” says zum. “everything is on their

terms and they have the craziest attitudes. I

like them because they seem cool with

everything and they are super independent.

They want everything the way they want it...

I think it’s fascinating.”

above: Akizume du Mali

left: Aki Mugshot

Page 111: Le Cercle # 11

Design: Norbert Beck

If you listen to your senses,

you’ll experienceall that’s beautiful and exhilarating

in this world.Rolf Benz MIO, where i feel good.

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Wo

rd

s:

Da

n B

ra

tm

an

Blooms once again

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Background image© Sophie Carre

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Background image© sophie carre

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Design, at its best, springs

forth from impressions of

nature. The structures in

which we live, the machines

we invent, in their ultimate

manifestation are shadows and composites

of what nature has already made.

Skyscrapers mimic the towering redwood,

homes are elaborate limestone caves, and

our clothes mimic the elegance and

efficiency of skin, feather and fur.

Sometimes, elements of

nature are combined that are truly unique.

The result of this exceptional brand of

thinking is sometimes considered genius,

sometimes heresy, sometimes beautiful.

Perhaps with elements of all three, Raf

Simons’ debut show for Dior showed his

reverence for nature and disregard for

convention. Five rooms in a Parisian

mansion were transformed into a dream of

flowers. Every wall was turned into a

vertical garden by over one million flowers.

Blue delphiniums, white orchids, pink

peonies, and colored roses built a dream

world of sight and smell as the set for Mr.

Simmons’ important first show as creative

director for the esteemed house of Dior.

With the runway lined with stars, the walls

covered in flowers, and the air full of

anticipation, the stage was set. As glib

and coltish models came through the

curtain, a new style for a new house of

fashion blossomed.

Raf Simons, once

considered an unlikely candidate for

the gig of Dior’s creative head, struck

out immediately with groundbreaking

originality. By combining an elegant

ballgown design as a top with

modern cigarette pants, Raf cuts a

new shape for a modern woman.

With the stems pruned and the top

blossoming fully, Simmons’ new

design is for mobility, not merely

a wallflower but a woman on

the move. Without any sacrifice

to the beauty of the blossom,

the design is elegant but

simple, free and feminine,

and like the flowers that

surround it.

raf simons

01020304

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979899100

101102 Art & Culture103

104105

106107108

109110111

112113

114115

116 Fashion117

118119

120121

122123

124

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CElEBRATES AnETERnAl ClASSiC

W o r d s : o w e n a D a m s

zhou xunthe

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The award for fashion event of

2012 is likely to go to Karl

Lagerfeld and Chanel, or

more precisely to The

Little Black Jacket.

the biggest stars turned out in

their hundreds for a summer party in new

york to toast a global photographic

exhibition and the launch of a book paying

tribute to this timeless icon – dreamt up by

coco chanel in 1954, and revisited by

lagerfeld and carine roitfeld.

lagerfeld credits mademoiselle

chanel with the little black jacket’s universal

appeal – a successor to chanel’s little Black

Dress. coco’s original design was based on

a male hotel concierge’s tyrolean jacket

worn in austria.

“the chanel jacket is a men’s

jacket that has become a recognized piece

of women’s clothing,” says lagerfeld. “it has

crossed that line and come to symbolize a

timelessly fashionable form of nonchalant

feminine elegance. it belongs to every era. it

really is the piece that goes with everything,

suits everyone and is appropriate any time.

it’s quite the miracle!”

For the book and exhibition,

sofia coppola, kirsten Dunst, yi zhou,

Vanessa Paradis and edgar ramirez were

just a few of a galaxy of a-list fashionistas

shot by lagerfeld at chanel’s rue de lille

Paris headquarters wearing the jacket, now

revisited as a unisex garment.

ramirez enthused: “shooting

with karl is a unique experience. you can

breathe creativity and history in every

corner of his studio in Paris, it’s a sort of

kaleidoscope, and it’s fascinating. that day i

realized that the chanel little black jacket

has transcended fashion. it has become a

universal icon of indisputable historical

value. it was very special to be part of this

celebration.”

although the book pays homage to the

classic chanel lBJ, lagerfeld and roitfeld

have updated the proportions of the jacket.

the book also shows the limitless ways in

which the jacket can be worn and

reinterpreted. “we cut up the chanel jacket,

we did it all,” says roitfeld. “we made it

short-sleeved, sleeveless, turned it inside

out. it can work as sportswear when paired

with jeans, or go with an evening gown, or

be worn by a male ballet dancer. this jacket

suits everyone. it’s an incredible item of

clothing.”

the book, exhibition and an

online video (at http://thelittleblackjacket.

chanel.com/) goes behind the scenes,

revealing the very human expertise that

goes into each stage of hand-crafting the

most desirable of clothes. Behind it all, as

lagerfeld and roitfeld recognize, is the very

“spirit of coco”.

DAPhnE gRoEnEvElD

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