LIGHTWEIGHT BACKPACKING GEAR GUIDE€¦ · Web viewThis guide is based on several sources, but primarily it is from: 1.) The course gear list from BackpackingLight™ BSA High Adventure

COMFORT BACKPACKING GUIDE: GEAR LIST & OUTLINE

BSA-SDIC High Adventure Team

Revision 8“Remember, the key to successful backpacking is to go lightly”

- Philmont Guidebook to Adventure.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF SOURCES: This guide is based on several sources, but primarily it is from: 1.) The course gear list from BackpackingLight™ BSA High Adventure Leader Training in Ultralight Backpacking (WS2-BSA), That source is the backbone of this guide and 2.) The 3 R’s™ and 7 Keys to Comfort™ are from Tony Ronco’s presentation on lightweight packing: Simplest Solution.. The Illustration on backpack sizing was adapted from ula-equipment.com. The illustration on hip belt fit was adapted from bushwalking.org.au

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Table of Contents:

How to Use this Outline Guide.......................................................................................................................3

Going Light Weight – The 3 R’s: Reduce, Reuse, Refine.................................................................................4

The BIG THREE: Backpack, Sleeping System, Shelter.......................................................................................6Backpack................................................................................................................................................................... 6

Pack Liner / Cover.................................................................................................................................................. 7Sleep System............................................................................................................................................................. 8

Sleeping Pad.......................................................................................................................................................... 9Sleeping System Misc. Items................................................................................................................................. 9

Shelter System........................................................................................................................................................ 10Ground Sheet....................................................................................................................................................... 10

Clothing & Footwear..................................................................................................................................11General Clothing Notes............................................................................................................................................ 11

CAUTIONARY WARNING ABOUT MATERIAL:.......................................................................................................................11A NOTE ON LAYERING:.......................................................................................................................................................... 11

Clothing (& Footwear) Worn Most of the Time.........................................................................................................12Rain Gear................................................................................................................................................................ 14Insulation Layers...................................................................................................................................................... 14Miscellaneous Clothing............................................................................................................................................ 15

Kitchen........................................................................................................................................................15Note about Cooking................................................................................................................................................. 15Kitchen Logistics...................................................................................................................................................... 15Stove....................................................................................................................................................................... 16Fire Starting Kit........................................................................................................................................................ 17Pot:.......................................................................................................................................................................... 17Mug.......................................................................................................................................................................... 17Eating Utensil........................................................................................................................................................... 17

Bear Resistant System..............................................................................................................................17

Essentials and Miscellanous Items..........................................................................................................18First Aid Kit.............................................................................................................................................................. 18Water Treatment...................................................................................................................................................... 18Compass.................................................................................................................................................................. 18Whistle..................................................................................................................................................................... 18Water Bottle............................................................................................................................................................. 18Light Source............................................................................................................................................................. 18Personal Hygiene Kit:.............................................................................................................................................. 18Trekking Poles......................................................................................................................................................... 19Camera.................................................................................................................................................................... 19Sunscreen................................................................................................................................................................ 19Lip Protection........................................................................................................................................................... 19Mosquito Repellent.................................................................................................................................................. 19Pen and Paper......................................................................................................................................................... 19

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How to Use this Outline Guide This guide is a not a typical gear list for traditional backpacking, because it is oriented towards a comfort approach and as a means to that end, a lightweight approach. This guide’s primary goal is outfitting a Scout with a comfortable lightweight backpacking kit. It also serves as a primer to the lightweight approach with suggestions on gear use and suggested gear weight by listing Targets and Maximums.

Gear Weights: The number one reason for going lightweight on a backpacking trek is simply to be as comfortable as possible. Nobody wants to become a beast of burden, hauling the heavy weight of traditional backpacking gear up and down the hills of the backcountry. In addition to being more comfortable on the trail, properly pursuing a light carrying weight will result in a safer outdoor experience and increase access to that experience – both physically & economically. Other complementary benefits include better enjoying your outdoor experience, being less taxing on your cardiovascular system, being less energy draining overall (= attitude enhancing), and promote a simplest solution approach.

Each item described has in this guide has a suggested TARGET (or less) weight and a MAXIMUM weight both listed in CAPITAL LETTERS. You are strongly encouraged to bring the lightest gear that's appropriate to the demands of your backpacking treks. Knowledge & experience from our class will help you along this path. Some of the suggested weight number maximums are rather heavy (like a 14-ounce rain parka) and fall into the realm of the "traditional" backpacking gear. Examples provided in this guide are just that, examples. We do not endorse any company over another company. We encourage you to find your own solutions to fit the suggestions in this guide.

Outfitting Cost: A Scout is Thrifty A WORD OF CAUTION: You might already have a working piece of gear, and if you are not both thrifty and aware, it can become rather expensive to get something lighter. It is very important to remember that in almost all cases lightweight gear is actually less expensive than its compatible, traditional counterpart. Please do not be fooled by the marketing hype from the outdoor industry, and be lured into, or even tempted to buy something more expensive simply because it is labeled “ultra-light”. True lightweight gear should be simple in design, and simpler is cheaper in terms of labor and material cost. Exotic materials, design & construction are not needed. Also in almost all cases there is a low cost alternative - For example, a Dri-Ducks rain jacket is a simple, ultra light, waterproof/breathable rain shell that is a mere fifteen bucks retail to purchase … and as if that deal wasn’t good enough, you get a free pair of rain pants as a part of your purchase..

Thrifty lightweight options also include: 1. Modify existing gear to be lighter

Home surgery works wonders for making your gear lighter & simpler, without spending any money

2. Make your own lightweight gearThru-Hiker.com and QuestOutfitters.com are just two of the many on-line sources for making your own gear. Making it yourself will reward you with a sense of pride & independence.

3. Buy your equipment used Thrift Stores, Swap Meets, e-Bay, Craigsliist, BPL, etc. are good sources to get used gear. Used rental gear sales such as at Adventure 16 or REI (among others) are other possibilities.. A variation of this approach for new gear but “last year’s model”, are the “end of season” sales.

4. Discount stores Examples include on-line stores such as Campmor.com, CampingMAXX.com, or Serra Trading Post’s store for Scouts (www.stp.me/scouts) or for a traditional brick & mortar store – Wal Mart, are all places where a good deal can be found. These sources are just four of the possibilities, there are many others!

Be creative and dollar smart. The Moral of this Introduction: Pick and chose wisely.

A SECOND WORD OF CAUTION Obviously, you can acquire lighter gear than what is listed in this guide, & benefit from increased comfort for on the trail hiking, but most likely you will also be required to use extra skills, techniques & discipline to properly care for that lighter gear. Fortunately, those skills & techniques are easy to learn & we’ll be happy to teach them as a part of our backpacking preparation. If you are not willing to go this extra measure, then just stick to the suggested guidelines to start.

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http://www.stp.me/scouts


Going Light Weight – The 3 R’s: Reduce, Reuse, RefineHere are a few excerpts from The Simplest Solution

REDUCE – Reduce Weight – That’s obvious! Carry lighter things. First focus on the

“Big 3”, for the “most return on your efforts” Reduce the Amount of stuff you carry – Carry fewer things. Reduce

redundancy. Embrace the idea of “Do More with Less” Reduce Complexity – Simpler gear is lighter & inherently more durable.

Strive to make your backpacking kit “so advanced, it’s simple”. Reduce Size and Bulk – Smaller, less bulky gear is inherently lighter &

more nimble

RE-USE – Reuse your gear to serve you in multiple ways for multiple uses

o This is a great way to reduce the amount of things you carry.

REFINE – Refine by simplifying for the better - by looking for the simplest solution.

o The Tools – The primary tool to refine your system is a scale. Weigh everything

o The Approach – Use the KISS method – Keep It Super Simple.

Hint : You “don’t need to re-invent the wheel”, be open to ideas & maybe try it out on a training hike IMPORTANT : Have fun with it; you just need to know it’s possible, you will find the simplest solution.

Beware of GimmicksUse what is actually useful

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Definitions –We’ll be using the following phrases & terms though out this outline, here are the definitions:

• Base Weight – The weight of your backpack without your food, water & fuel.

• Carry Weight – The weight of your backpack with your food, water & fuel.

• Base Weight Skin-Out – The weight of all your stuff without your food, water & fuel.

• Carry weight Skin-Out – The weight of all your stuff with your food, water & fuel.

The 7 Keys to Backcountry Comfort:Right after your 10 Essentials, the 7 Keys are 2nd in importance in your backcountry travels. A lightweight pack system helps support all 7 keys.

The Foundation:

1.Knowledge NOTE: Lots of equipment is not the same as Lots of experience. Being equipped does not necessarily

mean you’re prepared.

2.Physical Conditioning • NOTE: The extra weight (from your pack) does not equate to suddenly having extra muscle

• Good physical conditioning is a starting point for avoid fatigue.

The Attributes:3. Light carrying weight

• Easier on your cardiovascular system:

• The American Academy of Pediatrics recommends a weight of 10% or less for the exposure time

(carrying time) that the vast majority of backpacking requires.

4. Happy feet• Lighter loads allow lighter shoes that are more comfortable, more breathable, & faster drying than

traditional heavy backpacking boots

5.Warmth when you need it• Lighter weight warmth is more efficient because of more flexible layering to the environmental conditions.

6.Nutritious meals • Lighter weight meals are calorie dense & nutritionally dense

7.Quality night’s sleep

• A quality night’s sleep is important, going lighter weight does not mean compromising sleeping comfort

… for those who are older (less resilient ), going lightweight allows gives you some more room in your

pack for a lighter version of luxury sleeping pad.

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The BIG THREE: Backpack, Sleeping System, ShelterThe big three items in terms of weight are: 1.) Backpack, 2.) Sleep System, and 3.) Shelter System

Here are the suggested weight totals for your backpack, sleeping bag/quilt, and shelter: TARGET Weight for ALL the Big Three combined – 3.5 lbs or less. (Targeting a goal of about a pound each) MAX weight – 6.6 lbs. (Ending up around 2 pounds each maximum)

BackpackRated to comfortably carrying 25 pounds of total gear. You should aim for approximately 50 liters (3000 cubic inches) of volume. Be careful when picking a pack: external frame packs are designed to carry heavy “traditional” backpacking loads and are too heavy in weight – so, avoid external frame backpacks.. Internal frame packs, as a generalized rule (with a few exceptions) are also designed with the "traditional" backpacking approach in mind. Internal frame backpacks need to be very carefully looked at (or avoided) because they can easily be too heavy. There are of course, a few exceptions to the rule and some examples of those exceptions are listed below. A simple rucksack on the other hand (no internal frame) is much lighter, simpler and cheaper option for commercially available packs. Your sleeping pad (along with your non-stuff sacked sleeping system) will do double duty and help serve as a supportive frame structure & aid with carrying comfort (we will teach you how). We’ll also teach you about packing for optimal pack balance.TARGET Weight 24 oz or less. MAX Weight: 36 oz.

EXAMPLES: Rucksacks Make Your Own -Homemade, or LWGear Katahdin (22 oz), GoLite Jam 2 (22 oz),

Gossamer Gear G-4, and othersInternal Frames Gossamer Gear Mariposa Plus (16.0 - 18.3 oz), Gossamer Gear Gorilla (22.7 - 24.2 oz),

Granite Gear Vapor Trail (37 oz), Outdoor Products Arrowhead (36 oz), among othersMake Your Own: Gossamer Gear G4, Gossamer Gear “Scout” pack and various other internet plans/kitsModify Your Existing Gear: Home surgery to cut off unused “doo-dads” on the pack, Top-Lid left off, etc, etc.

Great Value Example: Outdoor Products Arrowhead (with some home surgery from Wal-Mart, make sure it fits)

NOTE: Your packing system needs to have the ability to fully protect your clothes and sleeping system from heavy rain, resist water absorption and not gain dramatic amounts of water weight. The material needs to be robust enough to survive limited off trail travel.

BACK PACK TORSO SIZINGTo accurately measure your torso length for a correct pack fit, grab a buddy and follow the steps below...

1. Standing upright, tilt your chin to your chest. Locate the largest lump on the back of your neck. This is your #7 vertebrae. It should be located close to the base of your neck proper.

2. From the #7 vertebrae, measure (with the flexible tape) downs the length and natural curvature of your spine to the crest of your hipbones (iliac crest). This measurement in inches is your torso length

BACK PACK HIP BELT SIZING & PLACEMENT1. Standing upright, measure (with the flexible tape)

the circumference around the crest of your hipbones (the iliac crest). This measurement in inches is your hip belt size. A properly placed hip belt will “cup ” your hipbones . (The Iliac crest).

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WORD OF CAUTION ON HIP BELT FIT:

A hip belt needs to be either flexible enough or tailored enough to “cup” you hipbones (the Iliac crest). See the green line on the illustration This is important as even a seemly plush padded hip belt can create hot spots on your hips, if it is either not flexible or tailored enough. See the red line on the illustration.

Pack Liner / CoverWaterproofing is essential to protect the contents of your pack. Traditional pack covers do not truly provide complete waterproofing, and they are generally not a multi-use item (although now, there are some lightweight versions available that meet the weight targets below). A simple and low cost option is for you to line your entire backpack with a waterproof trash compactor bag. A large waterproof, seam-sealed sil-nylon stuff sack is also acceptable, but these are not completely waterproof under the higher pressures of gear compression. TARGET Weight 2.1 oz or less. MAX Weight: 3.5 oz.

EXAMPLES: Trash compactor bags (2 mil or greater in thickness; typical weigh 2.1 oz) designed for electric kitchen trash compactors are easily found at the local grocery store. These are plenty big to line a lightweight backpack with enough extra to wrap over at the top for absolute waterproofing. Because these are rather heavy duty plastic (2 mil or greater), they are sturdy enough to last for several trips or an extended trip.

NOTE: If you are carrying down insulation / sleeping system., then having double protection is a good idea, especially if you are not very experienced with it.. This can take the form of using both a liner and a cover in rain or having a redundant separate liner just for you insulation / sleeping system.

Stuff Sacks: (mostly optional) Traditional backpackers tend to carry lots of multiple stuff sacks. With advanced lightweight skills, and we’ll reduce the number of items in your backpack so organizational duties will be reduced as well (which means not as many stuff sacks will be used). This reducing effort will extend to include the stuff sacks themselves. Your only required stuff sack will be for food storage, all others will really be extraneous. The food sack should be at least 600 cubic inches in volume and made of lightweight material. That said, it can be nice to organize gear using a few stuff sacks - we recommend simple Ziploc freezer type bags to organize (and provide protection against moisture) For small items (like toiletries) Ziploc freezer type bags are perfect for that use, especially with the feature of being able to see the contents from outside the bag.. MAX Weight for ALL stuff sacks: 3 oz.

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Sleep SystemIsn’t a “sleeping system” just a fancy way of referring to your sleeping bag and sleeping pad? The system being referred to here is defined as the layering combination of your sleeping bag / quilt (obviously!), and combined with your insulation layer of clothing for your body & head (your pajamas, so to speak), plus a possible bivy sack cover (optional, depending on the type of shelter you have), along with your sleeping pad. You can even add your backpack in that system too, because you can use it to help as additional insulation under your legs. And we might as well add the map under your pad too (*smile*). These layering combinations must be sufficient for keeping you safe and comfortable in potential temperatures and conditions you will encounter (research anticipated weather and environmental conditions of your trek). Synthetic fill is recommended because of its ability to maintain its insulating properties when wet. Down insulation of course, is perfectly acceptable, it has advantages because it is usually lighter, warmer, more compressible, BUT more expensive. It also requires extra dedication to keep it dry in potentially wet environments.

Clothing as a layering part of my sleeping system? Sure, sleeping with a lightweight bag / quilt system will likely require that you wear as your pajamas your insulation layer of clothing for the colder nights in order to keep you warm and cozy. Thus, the clothes you wear at night to sleep are considered multi-use items and a layering part of your sleeping system.

Sleeping Bag or Quilt: Shopping Caution - Summer-weight ultra-light quilts (and sleeping bags) have the lightest weights and are naturally very enticing to the lightweight shopper … but they are rather specialized pieces gear and consequently are not recommended for a novice (at least until your trekking skills are at an advanced level).. With that said, a three season quilts (at least 30 deg) are a much better lightweight choice. Standard sleeping bags designed for traditional three-season backpacking are also acceptable, but will likely be too heavy and have too much bulk and warmth. There are exceptions to this and the manufacturers listed below have a few in their product line-up (caution they can be expensive). Quilts are very simple (and consequently, light) – they are zipper less, so they don’t have the weight of a zipper (or its draft tube) and they are hoodless with an open back for even more weight savings. The idea of an open back is that insulation under your body weight is getting flatten out so its effectiveness in retaining heat is marginal at best … so why not utilize the weight savings of leaving it out of the design. Quilts have multiple venting and closing options. IMPORTANT - When choosing a bag or quilt, please be aware if you typically get cold at night, even in warmer temperatures, then you will want a warmer rated product than the temperatures you will encounter.

If you have the option to bringing to the class session, a quilt, an ultra light mummy, a hoodless or "top" bag (e.g., a bag with no bottom insulation), we recommend that you go ahead and do so. Learning the skills required to effectively use these systems is not hard and will be taught during our preparation and having the gear to try it out yourself is important. Skills covered will include a classic bedroll, or “quilt burrito” techniques.

EXAMPLES: Quilts - Make Your Own, Modify Your Existing Bag (into a quilt), Mountain Laurel Designs, Fanatic Fringe, GoLite, Jacks 'R' Better, and others.

Hoodless or top bags – With the exception of the Thermarest Haven, these tend to be expensive - Western Mountaineering, Feathered Friends, Rab, and others. TARGET Weights: 18 oz, or less. MAX Weight: 25 oz

Ultralight mummy bags – Eureka Silver City or North Face Tigger - Synthetic, or Campmor house brand 20 deg bag - Down. (These three examples are great values among many others … make sure they fit). Much more expensive options (made with expensive down and tailoring) include Marmot, Western Mountaineering and others.. TARGET Weights: 25 oz, or less. MAX Weight: 33 oz

Make Your Own: Sleeping quilts are very easy to make, it is a sandwich of a top & bottom lightweight nylon taffeta / rip-stop with a middle layer of insulation such as 4.8 oz sq/yd Climashield Apex (which is the easiest, as it only needs the outside perimeter edges sewed. Other synthetic insulation can be utilized but will need to be quilted (stabilized). The simplest & easiest method to do quilting stabilization is with yarn tufts … like an old style bed comforter quilt.Various plans are available on the internet. Thru-Hiker.com has free plans & also sells kits. Ray-Way.com is another source that sells kits.’

Modifying Your Existing Gear: Turning your existing sleeping bag into a quilt or a Hoodless / Top style bag is an inexpensive alternative. Plans and instructions are on the internet. This is a moderate sewing project.

Great Value Example: Eureka Silver City 30 degree sleeping bag 33 oz, $50 on sale

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Sleeping PadA lightweight torso-sized sleeping pad is ideal for your lightweight sleeping system, closed cell foam are preferred because it is lighter, much cheaper and more durable than a self inflating air mattresses.. Your pad need not be any thicker than 3/8 inches and can certainly be thinner depending on your own personal preference (do you sleep warm or not?). You will be using your backpack itself to help insulate your legs. Keep in mind that if you want to use an inflatable torso pad because you think it will be more comfortable than the lighter, cheaper closed cell foam – you will need to have the added weight (and complexity) of a repair kit to fix any punctures you will encounter. TARGET Weights: 7 oz, or less. MAX Weight: 10 oz.

EXAMPLES: Closed Cell foam - a modified (cut down) closed-cell foam pad, Gossamer Gear NightLight pad, a modified Cascade Design Z-Rest, and othersSelf-Inflating – (optional, these are very expensive and not durable) Therm-a-Rest ProLite 3, NeoAir, TorsoLite (9.9 oz), and others.

Example in the difference in cost and weight (& an illustration of the advantages of closed cell form) – Gossamer Gear NightLight pad (closed cell foam pad) - $ 16, 3.5 oz. (torso length)Therm-a-Rest NeoAir (inflated pad) $140, 9.1 oz (small),

Sleeping System Misc. ItemsSleeping Socks: Of your three pairs of socks you will have, one pair will be reserved as exclusively sleeping socks. These socks will not be used for hiking and will always remain dry and cozy so that your feet can stay warm and recover better at night. Some hikers will choose a pair that is one size too big for their feet so that they do not constrict blood flow during the night. MAX Weight per pair: 3 oz

Bivy Sack Cover: (Optional and not recommended for our purposes) the bivy sack being referred to here is a lightweight cover for your sleeping bag/quilt (not the self-sufficient shelter). Typically, this approach becomes useful when added moisture protection for camping under a small flat style tarp (or poncho-tarp) that has a correspondingly small coverage area / rain shadow. The basic cover type bivy is not really intended to be used “stand alone” piece for shelter. MAX Weight: 7 oz.

Pillow: (optional) . If you wear all your clothes to bed, what do you put your head on as you sleep? A simple little inflatable pillow. MAX Weight: 1.2 oz.

EXAMPLE: Graham Medical Flex-AIR chamber pillow (generally the cheapest & lightest) from on-line sources.

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Shelter SystemFor shelter systems there are several options, which we’ll quickly outline below. We promote the patrol method of sharing, so solo type shelters are not really recommended.

Tents – Generally self-contained tents are too heavy and too bulky to be utilized in lightweight hiking. For those few tents that are light enough to be utilized, they tend to be VERY expensive. A much lighter and much cheaper alternative is a simple Tarp, Tailored Tarp Canopy or Tarp-Tent style shelter. (See below).

Tarp – (This can be a flat tarp without catenary type construction or a cat tarp, with a catenary cut & construction) Tarps are very common for ultra-light backpacking, because they are simply the lightest, the most affordable, and most versatile shelter available. Typically, trekking poles are re-used as tarp poles, saving the weight of having separate shelter poles. Since it is a tarp, this type of shelter needs a lightweight ground sheet of Poly-Cryo or Tyvek. In addition, if conditions are buggy, then a bug-netting drape will be needed to protect you being “bugged” by them. We recommend non-solo sizes.TARGET Weight: 12 oz, or less. MAX Weight: 16 oz

Bivy Sack Shelter – A bivy sack designed for stand-alone use as a sleeping shelter that is a very simple (but cramped) option for going in the lightweight backpacking style. This is a shelter for solo use.

Backpacking Hammock – This is not your backyard hammock. Backpacking hammocks such as the Hennessy are like suspended one man, self-contained solo tents - having a rain-fly and bug-netting canopy. They are heavy when compared to a tarp, but relatively light when compared to a full tent and more versatile. In a pinch, if no trees or other suspension points are available, they can be pitched on the ground using hiking poles. This is a shelter for solo use

Tarp Canopy – This type of shelter is tailored to be almost like a tent fly (but it has no floor), so in other words, it is a tarp that can be closed on all sides. It is still much cheaper than a comparable tent. Typically, trekking poles are re-used as tarp poles, saving the weight of having separate shelter poles. This type of shelter has some options in setting up: higher for more ventilation, or down lower for more wind protection. Most designs have an optional inter-bug tent with an integrated floor, so they have extra versatility. In tarp mode, this type of shelter needs a lightweight ground sheet of Poly-Cryo or Tyvek. And, if conditions are buggy then also bring a bug netting drape to protect you (if you don’t go with the heavier option of an inner bug tent.)TARGET Weight: 24 oz, or less. MAX Weight: 30 oz

Bug Netting drape TARGET Weight: 2.8 oz, or less. MAX Weight: 5 oz Ground Sheet MAX Weight: 3 oz

EXAMPLES: For a 2 person shelter, Black Diamond Beta Light (24 oz), GoLite Hut-2 (24 oz) among others. For greater capacity, a pyramid type will provide a wonderful shelter for 3 to 4 scouts. (Examples: Black Diamond Mega Light, Golite, Oware, among others). Modifying Your Existing Gear: If you already have a tent & the fly can be pitched independently, then using your existing fly alone can make a “no-cost” tarp canopy. If your tent fly can’t immediately be pitched independently, then many times utilizing the manufacturer’s tent footprint will make an independent pitch possible because it most likely already has the grommets properly placed for the poles … of course you can always make your own lighter weight system for anchoring the poles.

Tarp-Tent – These types of shelter are simple, single walled tents with a floor connected to the tarp canopy by a perimeter of bug netting. These are less expensive alternatives to a traditional style tent that is light enough for use in lightweight backpacking. Typically, trekking poles are re-used as tent poles, saving the weight of having separate shelter poles Most are based off of Henry Shire’s original Tarp-Tent design and are sometimes called that generically (although the phrase “tarp-tent” is copyrighted to Shire). There are also several detailed internet plans for making this yourself. MAX Weight 39 oz

EXAMPLE: TarpTent Squal 2 (34 oz), among others.

Ground SheetNo need for a heavy manufacturer’s “foot print” (unless needed to only pitch your fly by leaving the tent at home) & no need to carry a heavy space blanket. Lightweight alternatives which you can cut & modify to your own needs include Tyvek (which is a non-woven light, durable, spun-bonded olefin sheet), Poly-Cyro (cross-linked polyolefin shrink film), a slit open emergency Mylar blanket, or a slit open trash compactor bag. MAX Weight: 3.2 oz

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Clothing & Footwear

General Clothing Notes

CAUTIONARY WARNING ABOUT MATERIAL: Your hiking clothes must be quick to dry, and consequently be of a material that can only absorb a minimal amount of water – so, they will need made from a light, quick drying, synthetics or wool. NO COTTON. NO COTTON BLENDS in the back country. There are a lot of available alternative options within outdoor / sports’ clothing that are remarkably durable, light and quick drying. All knitted and woven garments must be synthetic (nylon, polyester, polypropylene, etc.) or merino wool. Again - no cotton which will absorb water and then wick the wet spot out to become even a larger sized wet spot. To make matters worst, it also has the compounding problem of being slow drying. Rayon or silk garments should be avoided also because of their water absorption and slow dry times.REMEMBER – CLOTHING THAT STAYS WET WILL ROB YOU OF YOUR PRECIOUS BODY HEAT.

3 R’s of Lightweight Backpacking: Your clothes offer an excellent opportunity to practice and apply the 3 R’s: Reduce, Reuse, and Refine. Reducing the weight – you’ll be guided by the suggested Target Weights. Reducing the complexity – clothing designs that are simpler will be cheaper and lighter. Reducing the amount you carry – that means you will carry only one of each item, not multiple pairs … that’s right, only one! Hence, the critical importance of having quick drying clothes as noted in the paragraph above. Any redundancy that may needed will come from re-using another piece of clothing from your layering system.The one exception to not carrying multiples rule will be your socks, which will be explained. Reuse will be practiced in using your clothes for your layering system and your sleeping system. And finally keep refining – use the KISS (Keep It Super Simple) method when you are trying out different clothing pieces, combinations and methods.

LAYERING: The idea of Layering is to use your clothing layers to “tune” your comfort level to best fit three variables - 1.) your activity level 2.) your metabolism and of course 3.) the weather conditions.

EXAMPLES OF LAYERING (Variables are your activity level, metabolism & the weather)

TOP LAYERING Warm ● A combo of hiking shirt and base layer top (or rain jacket) over it. ● A combo of hiking shirt, base layer top and rain jacket over it ● A combo of hiking shirt, insulation jacket over it.

● A combo of hiking shirt, base layer top and insulation jacket Warmest ● A combo of hiking shirt, base layer top, insulation jacket and rain jacket.

BOTTOM LAYERING Warm ● A combo of shorts and base layer bottoms (or rain pants) over them. ● A combo of shorts / hiking pants and base layer bottoms or rain pants over them ● A combo of shorts, base layer bottoms and rain pants.Warmest ● A combo of hiking pants, extra underwear briefs, base layer bottoms and rain pants.

Required: At least three layers available that offer full body coverage. .Your torso will have a potential of 4 layers with your insulating jacket.

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Clothing & Footwear Worn Most of the TimeSun Hat: Required to provide shade for your head during the day while hiking (assuming sunny weather) A full wide brimmed hat offers the best UV protection of your face and ears A baseball cap with legionnaire type flaps to protect your ears and neck would be the next best choice. A baseball cap is acceptable, with sufficient sun block lotion on your ears and neck. Improvising a legionnaire style hat by using a baseball style cap & a bandana is acceptable too (although for some people the bandana tends to be too short to offer full neck protection) REMEMBER: Synthetic only, for rain protection and quick drying. MAX Weight: 3 oz.

Sunglasses: These are required to protect your eyes, especially in the higher mountain elevations. Polarized lenses are ideal. When shopping, make sure both UVA and UVB protection is listed … that is the most important consideration. Sunglasses will significantly enhance the quality of your views of the sunny terrain. They do not need to be expensive. MAX Weight: 2.5 oz

Long Sleeve Hiking Shirt: Long sleeves with a ventilating option are useful for trekking in warm weather and can add comfort/warmth over your base insulating layer while hiking in cooler weather and sleeping. This style of hiking shirt offers better UV protection for your lower arms than a short-sleeved shirt. Max Weight: 7 oz.

Short Sleeve Hiking Shirt: (optional) Short sleeves are useful for trekking in warm weather and can add comfort/warmth over your base insulating layer while hiking in cooler weather and sleeping. A long-sleeve hiking shirt with a ventilating option may be substituted here and will provide additional UV protection for your arms. Pick one or the other – not both. Max Weight: 6 oz.

Underwear Briefs: One pair is fine. Remember – No cotton or cotton blends. These will be worn when hiking in your shorts that don’t have a built in brief or your convertible zip-offs (which can set up as either shorts or pants).TARGET Weight 2.5 oz or less. MAX Weight 4 oz.Note 1: Only one pair? Yes, as back-up you will also have a pair quick drying nylon running style shorts with a built in brief as a hiking short - these can act as a back-up underwear if truly needed.Note 2: Some long-distance hikers recommend compression type shorts / underwear (basketball style) for chafe-resistance and some added warmth.

EXAMPLES: Duofold Short (2.5 oz) REI Active Brief (1 oz), UnderArmour Heat Gear Boxer Jock (2.5 oz), GoLite Stride Short (3.5 oz), among others.

Hiking Shorts: One pair of quick drying nylon running style shorts with a built in brief – this style has the benefit of being designed to minimize chafe. These shorts can do multi-duty as backup underwear and/or a bathing suit. TARGET Weight 2.5 oz or less. MAX Weight: 5 oz. (Weight differences usually reflect if there are pockets or not)

Convertible Zip-Offs (convertible to shorts or pants): In general, not really recommend unless the weather is cool enough. There are exceptions to this, such as at Philmont Scout Ranch, where long pants are required for some of the Program Camp activities. This piece of clothing should be made of lightweight, breathable, quick-drying synthetic fabric. Because of the zip-off feature they can also serve as an extra pair of hiking shorts, that later be converted to your long pants. The classic BSA Switchback uniform pants are good candidates. . MAX Weight: 11 oz.

Hiking Socks: Either light to medium-weight trekking socks made of wool blend tend to be the best, but all synthetic construction is perfectly acceptable too. Remember cotton or cotton blends are unacceptable! You will need a total of three pairs (one pair will be reserved for your sleeping socks, so that you can change into dry socks for the night, that don’t have fox tails, or other issues with them). What happens if both your socks are wet from yesterday? It’s easy to start the morning in the wet socks if you know the techniques and use Hydropel (or its equivalent). We will teach the skills for using only two pairs of hiking socks. Remember, the third pair will be reserved as part of the sleeping system. MAX Weight per pair: 3 oz.

EXAMPLES: Thorlo, Smartwool, Darn Tough, Lorpen, Bridgedale, and others.A cheap alternative would be wool blend dress socks, from a discount store.

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Trail Shoes: These may be the single most important item in this list. Generally you will be using trail runners. The considerations here are the fit first and then being lightweight. Everybody has different feet, so it is tricky to recommend something that just might not fit properly. Our favorite shoes may not fit your feet. Please invest some time to choose wisely in order to get a good fit.

You’ll be at times, traveling on potentially wet and muddy trails, and you’ll also have the possibility of getting your shoes wet during stream crossings. Surprisingly, waterproof shoes (e.g., Gore-Tex) are not ideal for this application because they take longer to dry when they get wet. Look for well-ventilated shoes that will dry quickly and drain moisture efficiently. Most summer temperatures in our mountains should generally be warm or mild, although cold spells can occur. As a result, cold feet in the early morning and late evening hours can be an issue, especially at higher altitudes. We will actively teach foot care in these various environments.

An Example of a Lightweight Foot Care Tip:: To avoid having wet feet from becoming macerated (which is the wrinkled skin you get if you’ve been in a tub or pool for a long time – that type of skin condition is very prone to blisters), simply use Hydropel on the dry skin of your feet before they become wet..1. Better to apply to dry clean feet. First thing in the morning applications are recommended since your

feet have had, a chance to really dry out in your sleeping system and sleeping socks. 2. Apply thin coat to all bottom foot surfaces and any top surfaces you may have experienced blister

problems with.3. Usually one application per day is sufficient, but if particularly hiking in very wet conditions, you can do

multiple applications.4. This may also really help people who are prone to blisters from your feet sweating.5. Hydropel comes in a bulky tube, transfer it to smaller, lighter container for your hikes.

Trail shoes should be lightweight, flexible, low- or medium-height, breathable, and made of quick-drying non-absorbent materials (minimal or no leather). No need for anything excessive, because your pack weight will be light enough to forgo "traditional" boots. Big, leather, insulated, heavy-duty hiking boots are totally unnecessary and far too heavy - and they have the added problem of drying slowly. Blister issues are MUCH more prevalent & severe with these “traditional” hiking boots.

FIT TIPS: Make an effort to try the shoes on a few moderate hikes BEFORE using in the back country. Fit your shoes about one-half size larger than your normal size. This extra room provides comfort, minimizes friction and allows for some swelling.

Any questions? Ask! We’ll be happy to help. MAX Weight per pair: 28 oz.

EXAMPLES: Try out the shoes and use whichever lightweight shoe fits your feet best and feels comfortable: Examples: Wal-Mart carried brands (they won’t last all that long, but for growing kids – they don’t need to), New Balance, Nike, Montrail, Salomon, Inov-8, La Sportiva, and others.

Camp Shoes: :(Not Recommended). Camp shoes were originally intended to give your feet a breather & a rest from heavy, confining boots. The use of lightweight, breathable trail runners makes this item unneeded and redundant.

Gaiters: (optional) Waterproof fabric is not really needed.. These should be the short style. For summer type trekking gaiters’ main function is to keep decomposed granite, gravel, dirt and possibly mud out of low-cut shoes (not necessarily to provide protection against moisture). Depending on the area, gaiters can also help keep stickers (such as fox-tails) & pokey burrs out of your socks too.MAX Weight per pair: 4 oz.

EXAMPLES: Make Your Own, REI low tops, Outdoor Research Rocky Mountain Low, Mountain Hardwear Nutshell, Dirty Girl spandex gaiters, among others.

Bandana: (optional) A true multi-use tool. Can be used as sun protection, a wash cloth, a pot holder … just to name a few uses. Typically a Buff style tube bandana is most versatile (either made from Cool-Max polyester or Merino Wool). A cotton or cotton-blend square style bandana is acceptable too and very inexpensive. NOTE: This is the only time and only exception where cotton is acceptable to be included in your backpacking kit. MAX Weight: 1 oz.

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Rain GearRain Jacket: The top half of a rain suit. A waterproof-breathable shell jacket with a hood is required. Pullover style is acceptable. A lightweight shell is great for layering in the wind or chilly mornings, but might be too hot for hiking on a sunny afternoon Non-woven garments such as Dri-Ducks or Frogg-Toggs jackets are extremely lightweight, but are not very durable so they will require a little extra care to preserve them. TARGET Weight 10.4 oz or less. MAX Weight: 14 oz.

Rain Pants: The bottom half of a rain suit. These lightweight shells are great for layering in the wind or chilly mornings, but might be too hot to use as hiking pants on a sunny afternoon. MAX Weight: 7 oz.

Poncho: (optional) As an alternative to a rain suit, a poncho is a versatile piece of rain protection that can be pressed into service as a one-person tarp shelter. Ponchos need to have edge snaps & always need a waist tie to minimize exposure to wind driven rainCAUTION: This type of rain protection presents the risk of becoming wet from wind driven rain.

Umbrella: (optional) A versatile piece of supplemental protection from the rain and sun. For rainy conditions it allows your hood of your rain shell to be down permitting better ventilation and vision. It can also provide shade in hot conditions. But this is a relatively heavy luxury item. MAX Weight: 8 oz.

Rain Cover for your Sun Hat: (optional) A rain cover for your sun hat creates a mini umbrella for your head allowing your hood to be down permitting better ventilation and vision. MAX Weight: 2 oz.

Sun Hat made from Rain Proof material: (optional) A sun hat made from lightweight, waterproof-breathable fabric is another option. CAUTION: Typically these are not a breathable as a regular sun hat and as a consequence, you at risk of your head feeling hot when you are out in the sun. Remember, the percentage of time you are hiking in rain will be much smaller than the percentage of time you are not. A material with the brand name material Event is the most breathable waterproof fabric currently available (but on the downside can be expensive). Having a rain/sun hat has the same advantages in the rain as the above listed hat protection – it creates a mini umbrella for your head allowing your rain hood to be down off your head which permits better ventilation and vision. MAX Weight: 3.5 oz

Pack Liner / Cover: Rain protection for your pack . This was outlined in the Backpack Section.

Insulation LayersFor your primary insulation layer, fleece (or pile) is cheap and an excellent option for folks on a budget (remember to keep the design simple to reduce weight & cost). Puffy insulation - lightweight high-loft garments made from synthetic fill (Primaloft, Polarguard, etc.) are a little more expensive but offer more warmth for the weight than fleece and consequently are overall lighter (remember to keep the design simple to reduce weight & cost). Down is the most expensive insulation, but offers most warmth for the weight and is generally the lightest option (again, remember to keep the design simple to reduce weight & cost). While down is wonderfully light, & provides an amazing amount of insulation, and has the ability to compress really tiny, it does require extra care to keep it dry. It will lose its insulative properties if it gets wet, so care of the gear is essential. That is another important factor to consider along with its expensive cost.

Insulated Jacket: This will be your primary insulation layer. Worn on chilly mornings and in camp at night. Insulated jackets can be either fleece, synthetic fill or down as mentioned above; hoods are nice, but not required. Again, as mentioned above, a lightweight fleece jacket is the most inexpensive. Your insulated jacket is also a key component to your sleep system. MAX Weight: 14 oz.

Head Insulation: Thin fleece (50 or 100 weight) or merino wool "watch-cap", “beanie”, or "balaclava" is recommended. Winter weight pile/fleece (e.g., 300 weight) is generally too thick, warm, and slow for summer treks. For the question "watch-cap" or "balaclava"? - If you sleep cold - "balaclava". If you have a torso base layer with a sewn-in hood, then a simple watch cap design is an easy choice. If your torso base layer does not have a hood, a balaclava design will keep you warmer than a simple watch-cap (again do you sleep cold or warm?). This item should be considered as part of the sleeping system. TARGET weight, 2 oz or less. MAX Weight: 2.5 oz.

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Long Sleeve Base Layer Top: One lightweight, long-sleeve polyester or merino wool shirt. Options such as zip necks and hoods are nice. This should be considered as part of the sleeping system. MAX Weight: 7 oz.

Base Layer Bottom: One long underwear (synthetic or merino wool) pant. This should be considered as part of the sleeping system. MAX Weight: 8 oz.

Gloves: (optional) Thin synthetic or wool gloves provide a little extra warmth, and they are especially nice if you know you are prone to cold hands. There is no need for heavyweight fleece gloves, because they are too thick and unnecessary the summer conditions. Quite often folks will never use them for the entire trip, but they are wonderful on that one chilly morning. They are also nice as part of the sleeping system. MAX Weight per pair: 1.5 oz

EXAMPLES: Any thin, quick-drying synthetic gloves, some are made from protective windproof laminate fabrics for extra warmth without bulk, but those tend to be expensive.

Insulating Pants: (optional, not really needed for summer treks) Either puffy synthetic or down, or “expedition” weight long underwear (synthetic or wool), these are helpful as part of the sleep system. These are used more for trekking during the colder part of the seasons (late fall, winter, early spring). . MAX Weight: 8 oz.

Miscellaneous Clothing Bug Head Net: (optional) A non-wire loop mesh head covering; this can double duty as an ultra-light stuff sack. Use depends on the season, timing and the place where your trek is be. It’s passive protection along with long sleeve shirt & long pants can help minimize the use of DEET (or an eco-friendly alternative). One way to boost the effectiveness of this system is to treat your clothes and head net with Permethrin. Mosquito protection in buggy conditions can preserve your sanity and will increase your trek enjoyment. MAX Weight: 1 oz.

Wind Shirt: (optional) This piece of clothing is usually used in conjunction with poncho rain protection. In a poncho system, wind protection is only marginal because of the open sides … that is where a supplementary wind shirt comes into play as it can provide wind protection from warmth robbing wind while still offering breathability when hiking in cold and high elevations. This clothing item can be exceptionally light, but is redundant if you are not using a poncho because you can then use your rain shell for wind protection. MAX Weight: 5 oz.

KitchenWhile a kitchen set can be set up on an individual basis, we will be following the patrol method of sharing. The set up will need to be for at least for two people – more likely an entire patrol/crew.

Note about Cooking Short trips, especially overnighters or weekend trips allow the possibility of cooking logistics to support more elaborate meals. On longer trips in order to save weight, the cooking logistics become much simpler. For those type trips, "cooking" (if that's what you call re-hydrating with hot water) is done. Meal in a bag style. Re-hydrating a commercial freeze-dried meal (such as Mountain House, etc.) is done with the supplied packaging bag the meal comes in, or if you are re-hydrating a homemade creation, a Ziploc bag. Commercial meals taste quite good but are expensive. Homemade meals can taste just as good are much more cost effective. It only takes a little bit of practice and time to make your own creations. For the most part, home made creations only require a food dehydrator.

Here is an on-line source to get you started on doing it yourself (there are many others): FreezerBagCooking.com,

Kitchen Logistics Everyone eats their food in the bag provided or in a bag they bring (most times supported by a bowl). This method has simple clean up (the bags are become trash containers to hike out) and minimizes / eliminates the required washing of bowls. This last point is important because minimizing/eliminating the gray water from washing dishes is a great solution for the Leave No Trace (LNT) principle of Dispose of Waste Properly

Bottom line: Can’t beat the quick transitions a fast clean-up a meal in a bag style provides, in addition we save the weight of the extra fuel that we would have needed to properly boil all of the wash water and we get to practice Leave No Trace (LNT) back country techniques – especially in bear habitat. There will be extra weight from the extra bags, but it is rather negligible.

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StoveStoves for a backpacking kitchen include a number of different approaches for fuel: alcohol, canister, gas, or wood. The simplest and lightest stove is the no stove type (*smile*)

Alcohol Stove – (Recommended for our purposes) This is the lightest, the cheapest and most dependable stove you can get … which explains its popularity among lightweight backpackers. These stoves have no pumps, no valves, no o-rings, and no moving parts at all to go wrong out in the backcountry. While they are easy to make at home, new BSA guidelines forbid this (potential liability reasons), so a commercial made unit is the only option, which is usually under $20 (Minibulldesigns.com is one possible on-line source) NOTE: Alcohol as a fuel has less BTUs (heat generating ability) so for practical purposes, a “kitchen burner – single stove” can most effectively only be set up for 2 individuals.

Solid Fuel Stove – (Recommended for our purposes) typically these stoves utilize Esbit style fuel tabs. They have the advantages and simplicity of alcohol stoves … and the same disadvantages.

Canister Stove – (Recommended) Backpacking fuel canisters contain pressurized isobutane or a mix isobutane & 30% (max) propane. Backpacking isobutane canister stoves are typically the second lightest stove available (second to alcohol / solid fuel stoves). When compared to gas stoves, canister stoves are lighter by a typical factor of 50%. Canister stoves are generally less expensive than gas stoves and they are easier to use as they require no priming, no warm up. Some models have auto start piezo lighting options for further the ease of use. Other models have remote mounting design for the canisters, which allows for bigger pots to be utilized on them. There are two main disadvantages for this approach compared to gas: 1.) The first disadvantage is isobutane’s poorer colder weather performance (due to vapor pressure dynamics – but, the higher the elevation, the better the cold performance), but this will not be a factor for the weather conditions experienced at most US backpacking destinations during the summer. 2.) It can be difficult to judge the fuel level in a sealed canister.A shopping word of caution about cost: Titanium models are expensive and provide only a very small amount of weight savings compared to a regular model … Titanium models are not worth the extra expense.TARGET Weight – 3 oz (or less) MAX weight: 6.8 oz.

EXAMPLESCanister Mount model: MSR PocketRocket (3 oz), among other examples. Remote Mount model: MSR Windpro (6.8 oz), among other examples.

NOTE: If the propane mix is greater than 30% then the containment vessel (i.e. the canister) has to be made of thicker walled steel instead of thin walled aluminum (per Federal regulations). Propane steel canisters are too heavy for backpacking use – so, propane fueled stoves are reserved as car camping stoves only. .Don’t confuse the two. The aluminum backpacking canisters come in various sizes: 3.5 oz., 8 oz., 10 oz., and 12 oz.

Gas Stove – (Not really recommended for our purposes or for 3 season use in general) Gas stoves are fueled by white gas (camping gas, Coleman gas). Gas as a fuel has the most BTU’s, so usually this type stove has quickest boil times. With this high BTU capability, gas stove systems are very useful for melting snow on winter trips; however, they are also the heaviest, the most complicated and the most expensive stove type. Lighter weight versions of these stoves are VERY expensive due to their titanium components. The MSR Simmerlite is currently the only stove of this type (that we know of) that begins to be light enough to be considered for 3 season use, that still costs within the average range of the market. Let us know if you find other examples.

Wood Stove – (Not really recommended for our purposes) Wood fires (small cooking fire – “Hobo” fire) or a backpacking wood-fueled stove saves the weight of fuel because presumably you can gather the wood fuel around your camp. HOWEVER – Many backcountry land use does not allow wood cooking fires, so this approach does not have many opportunities to practice it. Especially here in California, where most places in Southern California & the Sierras don’t permit wood fires due to the potential forest fire danger.

No Stove – (Not recommended for our purposes) While technically not a stove, this approach is truly lightest, cheapest (free), and the most dependable stove you can get. *smile*. You also get your re-hydrated no-cook meals either cold or ambient temperature and this system requires variable soak times before being ready to eat. There are many long distance lightweight backpacking advocates for this approach, but for our purposes, (unless the weather is particularly hot) it is not recommended

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Fire Starting KitSimpler the better. If using matches or lighter keep in lightweight waterproof container (can be a ziplock bag)

Pot: The pot for boiling water. Careful, there are many lightweight pots made from titanium, but they are expensive. Aluminum material is actually lighter weight than titanium. The major weight differences between pots made from these materials is the wall thickness of the pot. MAX Weight: 3.5 oz

EXAMPLE (of very cheap aluminum pot meeting weight recommendation):K-Mart- Stanco #GS1200 Grease Strainer (ditch the strainer), Open Country aluminum pot, and others.

MugBetween 500 and 750 ml volume preferred. This will be your main eating vessel and a mug for hot drinks. Titanium is very light, but very expensive. So, a simple plastic mug or "Glad Bowl", or Zip-Loc Twist Top, are all-OK.MAX Weight: 2 oz.

Eating UtensilA spork is common. Titanium is nice but expensive, however since this is a small item, price is usually under $10. Aluminum is cheaper; plastic is usually cheapest and can be had for free. “Free” utensils such as a spork from Taco Bell may be just fine (Caution - if you use a lot of “leverage” on fast food utensil, it will break). A long handled spoon from a McDonald’s Flurry is particularly durable. Chopsticks are another cheap and light alternative. MAX Weight: 1 oz.

Bear Resistant SystemWe will teach both systems and their usage strategies.

Bear Bag: Assuming you are trekking at a place where this practice is acceptable …A lightweight system can either be purchased, adapted from existing gear, or home made. CAUTION: It is not recommended to reuse your sleeping bag stuff sack (or clothing sack if you use one) as a bear bag, because of the potential for smell transfer on to the stuff sack, then consequently the potential transfer from the sack on to your sleeping system (or clothes), .

NOTE: Most of the popular destinations in the California Sierras require a bear canister.

Bear Canister. Most of the popular destinations in the California Sierras require a bear canister (including the National Parks). We’ll teach the proper placement and use in our preparations.

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Essentials and Miscellaneous ItemsFirst Aid Kit A simple personal kit built up on the guidelines in the Scouting Manual (page 127). Liquid type items will need to be repackaged into smaller containers or buy a couple of single use packets. You will want to include Hydropel for foot treatment. MAX weight – 3.5 oz

Water TreatmentChlorine Dioxide tablets are recommended. (Iodine tablets are not). You are encouraged to leave the heavy traditional water pump filters behind. If you are not comfortable using this type of chemical treatment or don’t like the taste, you may bring one of the following for your patrol’s or own personal use: 1.) A gravity style water filter (lighter and no pumps to fail), or 2.) An UVC pen – but a UV pen is expensive and requires extra caution knowing that 1.) the control unit can not get wet and 2.) they require batteries to operate.

CompassA simple compass with a base-plate is all you'll need. Navigation with a map is always an important skill to have in the backcountry. A popular map scale is the 1:24.000 scale, so having that scale on your compass is useful. MAX Weight: 1.2 oz.

EXAMPLES: Suunto A-10 Partner, Silva Polaris 7, Brunton 9020G, and others.

WhistleLoud whistle on neck lanyard or backpack strap to be worn at all times. Also, some backpacks have a whistle built into a plastic buckle for the sternum strap (these can be retrofitted too). MAX Weight: 1 oz.

Water BottleOther than desert trips, we will rarely carry more than 1.5 liters of water while trekking, as we’ll be moving efficiently between water sources. There will be no real need for more than 3.0-liter (max.) carrying capacity. Options for hydration include a soft-sided 1.5-liter water bottle or a 1-liter standard plastic soda bottle. (Wider mouth versions from PepsiCo products are little easier to fill). Reusing soda bottles is very inexpensive (free), green option. Soft-sided, collapsible bottles are also highly encouraged for ease of storage and weight savings. Please leave the porky (6.1 ounce!) hard-sided Nalgene style bottles at home; they are unnecessarily heavy. In addition, hydration bladders (such as Camelbaks, etc.) are surprisingly heavy, and consequently are not recommended. MAX Weight: 3 oz.

EXAMPLES: The humble 1-liter “water” soda bottle pulled from the recycle bin (cheap & very light). Store bought alternatives: 1.5-liter Nalgene Canteen (soft sided & collapsible), Platypus 2-liter size, Evernew 2-liter size and others.

NOTE: It is important to pre-hydrate before hiking and stay hydrated during hiking. Fill up yourself, as you fill up you water bottle. How much water you will need to carry will depend on your physical conditioning, the weather conditions, the distance between water sources, and of course, how much physical effort your hike will require from you (which will be influenced by the weight of your backpacking load),

Light SourceOne lightweight tiny flashlight with neck lanyard or a lightweight headlamp, with fresh batteries. Extra batteries should not be needed if you put new ones in at the beginning of the trek. Your light source should be suitable for short-range navigation and task lighting. You might be setting up camp in the dark at least once! MAX Weight: 2 oz.

EXAMPLES: Wal-Mart generics, Black Diamond Ion, Petzl Tikka or e+lite, Photon X Freedoms, and others.

Personal Hygiene Kit: Toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, personal medications, other personal hygiene items (AVOID SCENTED ITEMS – when you are in bear country). Please, repackage items into smaller containers/bottles. These items can be stored in a simple plastic Ziploc freezer baggie. MAX Weight: 3 oz.

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Trekking Poles(Optional) Personal preference: While a percentage of hikers love their trekking poles, there are many hikers that don’t use them. Trekking poles are not considered required items. They are however certainly multi-use items because they can be a part of your shelter set up as support poles. If they are your preference, we’ll teach you proper usage and strap utilization. Non-adjustable poles are the lightest and the most affordable. Adjustable lightweight poles are expensive. MAX Weight per pair: 11 oz.

EXAMPLES: Thrift store ski poles, After-season sale racing Nordic poles (very light), Gossamer Gear Lightrek Plus, Komperdell (REI) FeatherLite, among others.

Camera(Technically optional, but definitely recommended). Capturing the memories of your adventure is important. You’re choices of digital cameras should focus of lightness, simplicity, and use easy to find batteries. Store in a Zip-Loc freezer bag to protect from the elements.

SunscreenHigh elevation mountain travel be especially hard on your skin. Bring a small bottle of high SPF waterproof sun block … make sure it is fragrance-free for bear country (so, avoid the beach-crowd, coconut fragranced products). You’ll need at least SPF 30 with BOTH UVA & UVB protection.. UVA rays contribute the most to skin cancer risk, where as UVB rays contribute the most to sun burning; you will need protection from BOTH UVA & UVB. (these type sun screens are sometimes called “broad spectrum”) SPF 50 provides 13% more protection than SPF 30. Repackage into a smaller bottle as needed. NO aerosol cans! For passive protection, long sleeves and long pants will protect your skin & minimize sun block usage, (and the weight!) MAX Weight: 2 oz.

Lip ProtectionA simple tube of high SPF (at least 30 with BOTH UVA & UVB protection). Examples include Chap Stick or Dermatone among others. Some sunscreens can double as lip protection. MAX Weight: 1 oz.

Bug Repellent(Optional, but recommended). The use of this item depends on the season, timing and the place where you will be doing your trekking. A small amount of DEET or an eco-friendly alternative can preserve your sanity and increase your trek enjoyment. We recommend considering Permethrin products more than DEET because unlike DEET it doesn’t chemically melt plastic materials (and having a chemical on your skin that can melt plastic, can’t be good). Follow the instructions for safe application. Repackage into a smaller bottle as needed. NO aerosol cans! An alternative bug repellent system is the passive protection of long sleeves, long pants - and a head net. – all treated with Permethrin, that way no insect repellent is applied directly to your skin.MAX Weight: 1 oz.

SunglassesAlready covered in the Clothing & Footwear Worn Most of the Time section

Pen and Paper(Optional) Teeny-weenie is fine. There may be occasions to take notes (after all, treks are suppose to be learning experiences!) and you might want to journal. MAX Weight: 2 oz.

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Documents

LIGHTWEIGHT BACKPACKING GEAR GUIDE€¦ · Web viewThis guide is based on several sources, but primarily it is from: 1.) The course gear list from BackpackingLight™ BSA High Adventure