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PLAN YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Iceland ....... 2Map .................................. 414 Top Experiences ........ 6Need to Know ................. 16If You Like... ..................... 18Month by Month ............. 21Itineraries ........................ 26Ring Road Planner .......... 30 Outdoor Adventures ...... 32Regions at a Glance ....... 39
YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip
UNDERSTAND ICELAND
Iceland Today ................. 298History ............................. 300Natural Wonders ............ 309Icelandic Culture:Sagas to Sigur Rós ......... 315Icelandic Attitudes ......... 321Icelandic Cuisine ............ 326
Iceland Today Crash Ah, the infamous currency crash – audacious demonstrations of frivo ouwealth are ‘so 2007’, according to locals, but it’s still everyone’s favouritetopic of conversation. These days, however, there’s enough distance fromthe ‘crisis’ that the nation has had an opportunity to lick its wounds andanalyse just how its house of cards was built. Theories have been ositedby leading economists – many pointing the finger at the dubious systemof rivatised fishing quotas and troller loans.
Internationally there was much disdain from foreign investors who
tion:
ploy-8%
er
ICELAND USAFRANCE
population per sq km
≈ 3 people
History Geologically young, staunchly independent and frequently rocked bynatural (and more recently financial) disaster, Iceland has a turbulentand absorbing history of Norse settlement, literary genius, bitter feudingand foreign oppression. Life in this harsh and unforgiving landscape wasnever going to be easy, but the everyday challenges and hardships havecultivated a modern Icelandic spirit that’s highly aware of its stormy pastyet remarkably resilient, fiercely individualistic, quietly innovative andjustifiably proud.
Early Travellers & Irish Monks A veritable baby in geological terms, Iceland was created around 17 million years ago. It was only around 330 BC, when the Greek ex lorer Pytheas wrote about the island of Ultima Thule, six days’ sailing north ofBritain, that Europe became aware of a landmass beyond the confines oftheir maps, lurking in a sea ‘congealed into a viscous jelly’
For many years rumour, myth and fantastic tales of fierce stormsh li i d d b b i d h d d l k t l
History of celand, by Jon R Hjalmarsson, is a lively and ab-orbing account
A Symphony of Elements Iceland is, literally, a country in the making – the natural elements work in harmony to power its veritable volcanic laboratory: geysers gush, mudpots gloop, Arctic gales swish along silent fjords, stone towers rise from the depths of an indigo sea, and glaciers grind their way through cracked lava elds and the merciless tun-dra. The sublime power of Icelandic nature turns the prosaic into the extraordinary. A dip in the pool becomes a soothing soak in a geothermal lagoon, a casual stroll can transform into a trek across a glittering ice cap, and a quiet night of camping means
front-row seats to either the aurora borea-lis’ curtains of re, or the soft, pinkish hue of the midnight sun.
A Deeply Personal Experience Beyond the torturous clash of ecologi-cal anomalies, it’s hard not to be deeply touched by the island’s awesome beauty – few leave the country without a pang and a fervent vow to return. Iceland has that ef-fect on people – it turns brutes into poets, and sceptics into believers. Perhaps it’s the landscape’s austere bleakness, or maybe it has something to do with the island’s tiny
A mythical kingdom ruled by elves and Arctic energy, Iceland is where the past meets the future in an elemental symphony of wind, stone, fire and ice.
welcome to Iceland
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
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297GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
Learn about the big picture, so youcan make sense of what you see
Southwest Iceland & the Golden Circle Landscapes Activities Wildlife
In the Path of Destruction If the southwest printed bumper stickers, they would say ‘the further you go, the better it gets’ – wander into the interior and you’ll find vistas of mythic proportions sitting under the watchful glare of several grumbling volcanoes.
Hiking, Biking& Vikings High in the hills a hiker’s paradise awaits, while down along the shores of the south coast and the Reykjanes Peninsula bikers will find plenty of trails in suitable weather. Toss in a smattering of interesting Saga-era relics and you have endless itinerary fodder for every type of tourist.
For the Birds The stunning Vestmannaey-jar archipelago has the larg-est colony of puffins in the entire world, and they offer a spirited welcome as they shoot over the arriving fer-ries like wobbly firecrackers.
p 85
Reykjavík Culture Nightlife Activities
The Culture Capital With miles and miles of nothing but nature all around, Reykjavík is Ice-land’s confirmed repository of all things cultural, from winning museums and super-sleek gallery spaces to a roaring music scene and a colourful guild of craftsfolk and designers. Festivals roll on through the year, bright-ening even the bleakest of winter nights with heart-warming celebrations of every shape, size and colour of the rainbow.
White Nights Reykjavík, if anything, is notorious for its small but fierce nightlife. And while legions of foreign bachelor parties are common, the best nights out in the capital start with coffee at one of the dozens of quaint cafes, ‘pre-gaming’ drinks at a friend’s apart-ment, an unholy pilgrim-age between several beer bars, and a 4am sticky-floored romp to Top 40 beats when a makeshift dance floor suddenly materialises.
Long Weekend Extravaganza Perfectly positioned half-way between Europe and North America, Reykjavík has done an impressive job of establishing itself as the perfect layover be-tween continents. Urban walking and biking tours take in the top sights of the capital, but the magic of Iceland unfolds just beyond – and the city’s well-oiled travel machine can instantly launch you into the wilderness via car, bus, jeep, boat or foot. p 44
regions at a glance
39
Jökulsárlón
3 A ghostly procession of luminous-blue icebergs drifts serenely through the
18-sq-km Jökulsárlón lagoon (p 277 ) before oating out to sea. This surreal scene (handily,
right next to the Ring Road) is a natural lm set: in fact, you might have seen it in Batman Begins and the James Bond lm Die Another Day. The ice breaks o from Breiðamerkur-jökull glacier, an o shoot of the mighty Vatna-jökull ice cap. Boat trips among the ’bergs are popular, or you can simply wander the lakeshore, scout for seals, and exhaust your camera’s memory card.
Northern Lights
4 Everyone longs to glimpse the Northern Lights, the celestial kaleidoscope known
for transforming long winter nights into natural lava lamps. The lights, also known as aurora borealis, form when solar ares are drawn by the earth’s magnetic eld towards the North Pole. What results are ethereal veils of green, white, violet or red light, shimmer-ing and dancing in a display not unlike silent reworks. Peak aurora sightings occur in the
depths of winter, but look for the lights in clear, dark skies anytime between October and April.
SU
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ET
TY IM
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ES ©
4
9
Top Events
Iceland Airwaves, October
Menningarnott, August
Þjódhátíð, August
Bræðslan, July
Northern Lights, October–April
Month by Month
January After December’s cheer, the festive hangover hits. The first few weeks of the year can feel a bit of an anticlimax – not helped by the extra-long dark nights and inclement weather.
5 Þorrablót This Viking mid-
winter feast (late January to mid/late February) is marked nationwide with stomach-churning treats such as hákarl (putrid shark meat), svið (singed sheep’s head) and hrút-spungar (rams’ testicles). All accompanied by gener-
z WinterLights Festival
Mid-month, Reykjavík glows with a celebration of light and darkness. This wide-ranging festa en-compasses Museum Night and Swimming Pool Night (late-opening museums and pools), illuminated landmarks, cultural events and concerts, and celebra-tions to mark International Children’s Day. See www.vetrarhatid.is.
5 Food & Fun International chefs
team up with local chefs and vie for awards at this capital feast. Teams are given the finest Icelandic
6 Beer Day Hard to imagine, but
beer was illegal in Iceland for 75 years. On 1 March, Icelanders celebrate the day in 1989 when the prohibi-tion was overturned. They need little prompting, but pubs, restaurants and clubs all around Reykjavík are especially beer lovin’ on this night.
April Easter is celebrated in a traditional fashion (Easter-egg hunts, roast lamb), and spring is in the air. Days lengthen and the mercury climbs, meaning
21
I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -942 -2
9 781741 799422
99525
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Brandon Presser,Carolyn Bain, Fran Parnell
The Westfjordsp158
IcelandWest
p134
Reykjavíkp44
& the Golden CircleSouthwest Iceland
p85Iceland
Southeast
p263
IcelandEast
p238The Highlandsp285
North Icelandp187
YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Directory A–Z ................. 332Transport ........................ 344Language ........................ 352Behind the Scenes ......... 356Index ................................ 358Map Legend .................... 367
VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO
HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
ON THE ROAD
PAGE
42
PAGE
331
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POCKPOCKETET
iceland-8-cover.indd 2iceland-8-cover.indd 2 8/02/2013 10:26:59 AM8/02/2013 10:26:59 AM
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Brandon Presser, Carolyn Bain, Fran Parnell
18/11/12James L
ice7
n/aContents D2
Fran Parnell
00 Destination Iceland
Iceland 8
00-contents-ice8.dwg
The Westfjordsp158
IcelandWest
p134
Reykjavíkp44
& the Golden CircleSouthwest Iceland
p85Iceland
Southeast
p263
IcelandEast
p238The Highlandsp285
North Icelandp187
Hydro
dest'nsOff mapSymbols
Title
Scale
NotesBookNthpt
Spot colours removed?
Masking in Illustrator done?
Inset/enlargement correct?
Hierarchy
Hierarchy
RoadAll key roads labelled?
File
Date
Date
Date
Date
Date
Date
Date
Editor Cxns
MC Cxns
Author Cxns
Final Ed Cxns
Editor Check
Key
MC Check
MC/CC Signoff
Chapter
Author
Border
Basefile
New References
Initial Mapping DateBook
KEY FORMAT SETTINGS
Column Widths and Margins
Number of Rows (Lines)
YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Directory A–Z ................. 332Transport ........................ 344Language ........................ 352Behind the Scenes ......... 356Index ................................ 358Map Legend .................... 367
VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO
HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
ON THE ROAD
Icelandic belongs to the Germanic language family, which includes German, English, Dutch and all the Scandinavian languages except Finnish. It’s related to Old Norse, and retains the letters ‘eth’ (ð) and ‘thorn’ (þ), which also existed in Old English. Be aware, especially when you’re trying to read bus timetables or road signs, that place names can be spelled in several diff erent ways due to Icelandic grammar rules.
Most Icelanders speak English, so you’ll have no problems if you don’t know any Ice-landic. However, any attempts to speak the local language will be much appreciated.
If you read our coloured pronunciation guides as if they were English, you’ll be understood. Keep in mind that double con-sonants are given a long pronunciation. Note also that öy in our pronunciation guides is like the ‘-er y-’ in ‘her year’ (without the ‘r’) and kh is like the ‘ch’ in Scottish loch. Stress gen-erally falls on the rst syllable in a word.
BASICSHello. Halló. ha·loh
Goodbye. Bless. bles
Please. Takk. tak
Thank you. Takk fyrir. tak fi·rir
Excuse me. Afsakið. af·sa·kidh
Sorry. Fyrirgefðu. fi·rir·gev·dhu
Yes. Já. yow
No. Nei. nay
How are you?Hvað segir þú gott? kvadh se·yir thoo gotFine. And you?Allt fínt. En þú? alt feent en thooWhat’s your name?Hvað heitir þú? kvadh hay·tir thooMy name is …Ég heiti … yekh hay·ti …Do you speak English?Talar þú ensku? ta·lar thoo ens·kuI don’t understand.Ég skil ekki. yekh skil e·ki
DIRECTIONSWhere’s the (hotel)?Hvar er (hótelið)? kvar er (hoh·te·lidh)
READING ICELANDIC
Letter PronunciationÁ á ow (as in ‘how’)Đ ð dh (as the ‘th’ in ‘that’)É é ye (as in ‘yet’)Í í ee (as in ‘see’)Ó ó oh (as the ‘o’ in ‘note’)Ú ú oo (as in ‘too’)Ý ý ee (as in ‘see’) Þ þ th (as in ‘think’)Æ æ ai (as in ‘aisle’)Ö ö eu (as the ‘u’ in ‘nurse’)
WANT MORE?For in-depth language information and handy phrases, check out Lonely Planet’s Scandinavian Phrasebook. You’ll nd it at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks at the Apple App Store.
Language
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p179Iceland: Nature’s Wonderland
Skagafjörður
Húnaflói
Breiðafjörður
Faxaflói
Selvogsgrunn
N O R T H
A T L A N T I C
O C E A N
Eyrarbakkabugur
DenmarkStrait
Sauðárkrókur
Blönduós
Skagaströnd
Norðurfjörður
Suðureyri
Þingeyri
Ísafjörður
Brjánslækur
Hólmavík
BolungarvíkSiglufjörður
Hvammstangi
Búðardalur
Stykkishólmur
Grundarfjörður
Geysir
Landmannalaugar
Hella
SelfossHveragerði
Borgarnes
Akranes
Kópavogur
REYKJAVÍK
HafnarfjörðurKeflavík
Njarðvík
Hvolsvöllur
Vík
HeimaeySkógar
ÞorlákshöfnGrindavík
Ólafsvík
Hellissandur-Rif
Bíldudalur
Patreksfjörður
PARK
ÞINGVELLIRNATIONAL
Arctic Circle
Hóp
Þingvallavatn
Drangey
Surtsey
HeimaeyVESTMANNAEYJAR
Flatey
Hornstrandir
Drangajökull
Snæfellsnes
Langjökull
Hofsjökull
Eyjafjallajökull
Mýrdalsjökull
Gullfoss
Eiriksjökull(1675m)
(1450m)
Blue LagoonSteaming silica cauldron full
of relaxing tourists (p88)
› Iceland
KerlingarfjöllAn interior massif and
emerging hiker’s haunt (p289)
Tröllaskagi PeninsulaRing Road detour with viewpoints galore (p196)
VestmannaeyjarCraggy archipelago androaring bird life (p128)
ReykjavíkIceland’s unrivalled nightlife
headquarters (p44)
Snæfellsnes PeninsulaCracked lava and humblingearth energy forces (p142)
WestfjordsMajestic stone towers
and silent fjords (p158)
FimmvörðuhálsGushing waterfalls and a
steaming eruption site (p116)
Þistilfjörður
Öxarfjörður
Bakkaflói
Vopnaf
jörðu
r
Eyjafjörður
Raufarhöfn
BakkafjörðurHúsavík
Reykjahlíð
Vopnafjörður
Þórshöfn
Eskifjörður
Egilsstaðir
Reyðarfjörður
Seyðisfjörður
Neskaupstaður
Stöðvarfjörður
Breiðdalsvík
Fáskrúðsfjörður
Djúpivogur
Höfn
Stafafell
Skaftafell
Ólafsfjörður
Dalvík
Akureyri
Kirkjubæjarklaustur
PARK – NORTH)(VATNAJÖKULL NATIONAL
JÖKULSÁRGLJÚFUR
SKAFTAFELL
PARK – SOUTH)(VATNAJÖKULL NATIONAL
Arctic Circle
Mývatn
Grímsey
Flatey
Vatnajökull
(1860m)(1719m)
GrimsvötnKverkfjöll
(2119m)Hvannadalshnúkur
100 km50 miles
00
Borgarfjörður EystriHidden haven for
puffins and elves (p247)
Vatnajökull National Park Europe’s largest ice cap is a
haven for snowy sports (p272)
JökulsárlónGhost-blue icebergs set adriftin an ethereal lagoon (p277)
SeyðisfjörðurCascades ring the fjord basinof this arty township (p251)
Top Experiences ›
200m
500m
1000m
1500m
0
ELEVATION
Glacier
Brandon PresserCoordinating Author; Reykjavík, Southwest Iceland & the Golden Circle, West Iceland, The Westfjords, Iceland: Nature’s Wonderland, Iceland Today Growing up in northern Canada, Brandon was all too familiar with sweeping, desolate terrain and shiver-worthy landscapes. But no snowdrift was big enough to pre-pare him for the sheer awesomeness of the remote Icelandic countryside. It was a simple transcontinental layover that turned harmless curiosity into full-blown
infatuation and now, a decade later, he’s checked off almost every fjordhead and mountain pass from his to-do list. He’s even received compliments on his Icelandic pronunciation! (His grammar, however, is improving at glacial speeds.) Brandon spends most of the year writing his way across the globe – he’s authored around 40 Lonely Planet guidebooks and explored over 75 countries. For more about Brandon, check out www.brandonpresser.com.
Carolyn BainMonth by Month, North Iceland, East Iceland, Southeast Iceland, The Highlands, Directory A–Z, Transport Melbourne-born Carolyn has had an ongoing love affair with the Nordic region, a love that began when she was a teenager living in Denmark and that has been regularly rekindled over 12 years of writing guide-books to destinations such as Denmark, Sweden and Nordic-wannabe Estonia. Researching this book fulfilled a long-held ambition and has taken her Nordic
adulation to dizzying new heights. New and/or rekindled obsessions include skyr, snowmobiles, fjords, hot-pots, Northern Lights, puffins, lopapeysur and Of Monsters and Men.
Fran ParnellHistory, Natural Wonders, Icelandic Culture, Icelandic Attitudes, Icelandic Cuisine Fran’s passion for Scandinavia began while studying for a masters de-gree in Anglo-Saxon, Norse and Celtic. A strange university slide show featuring sublime Icelandic mountains and a matter-of-fact man who’d literally dug his own grave awakened a fascination that has kept on growing. Deserted valleys and blasted mountain tops are her chosen lurking places, and Hekla is her fa-
vourite volcano. Fran has also worked on Lonely Planet’s guides to Scandinavian Europe, Sweden, Finland, Denmark and Reykjavík.
Read more about Brandon at: lonelyplanet.com/members/brandonpresser
Read more about Carolyn at: lonelyplanet.com/members/carolynbain
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9838th edition – May 2013ISBN 978 1 74179 942 2© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 201310 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Whether you’ve got three days or 30, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.
Borgarnes
ÞingvellirNational
Park
Stykkishólmur
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Dettifoss
Akureyri
TröllaskagiPeninsula
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10 DaysIntro to Iceland: Classic Ring Road
Depart Reykjavík in a clockwise fashion, stopping in Borgarnes on the way to Stykkishólmur, an adorable village overlooking an isle-ridden bay. Rejoin the Ring Road, breaking away once more to uncover the quaint townships and coastal vistas of the Tröllaskagi Peninsula before gliding through Akureyri, Iceland’s unofficial
northern capital. Onto mysterious Mývatn next, with a stop at Dettifoss to experience the awesome power of nature. Push eastward to Borgarfjörður Eystri for summer puf-fins galore. Slow down in Seyðisfjörður, then tackle the long journey through the rest of the east as the road curls along dozens of magical fjords. Pause in Höfn for langoustine, jump on a snowmobile to discover Vatnajökull, then putter along the glacial lagoon at Jökulsárlón. Warm up your hiking legs in Skaftafell, then tackle the awesome trek from Skógar to Þórsmörk, a verdant interior valley. Find your way back to the Ring Road and as you continue west, veer away one last time to check out the yawning continental divide and the island’s ancient government seat at Þingvellir National Park before rolling into Reykjavík to spend the remainder of your holiday enjoying the capital’s treasures.
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BorgarnesÞingvellirNational
Park
Stykkishólmur
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Blue LagoonÞórsmörk
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Stokkseyri
Landmannalaugar
Vestmannaeyjar Vík
Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Lakagígar Skaftafell
Jökulsárlón
VatnajökullHöfn
Breiðdalsvík
Eskifjörður
Seyðisfjörður
BorgarfjörðurEystriVopnafjörður
Langanes
Ásbyrgi
#•
Húsavík
Mývatn
Dettifoss
Askja
Kverkfjöll
Akureyri
Dalvík
Siglufjörður
Grímsey
HofsósHólmavík
DjúpavíkNorðurfjörður
SnæfellsnesPeninsula
UpperBorgarfjörður
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Three to Four WeeksThe Grand Tour
Pick up your own wheels after arriving in Keflavík, and head to Blue Lagoon to slough off the hours of tiring travel. Follow the coastal road through maritime Stokkseyri, then it’s on to Landmannalaugar for the legendary multiday hike down into the secreted valley of Þórsmörk. Back near the Ring Road – as the anti-
clockwise journey continues – you’ll find the boat out to Vestmannaeyjar, where puffins flit like buzzing bees above fresh lava flows. Hang out in verdant Vík, then push onward to Kirkjubæjarklaustur, where you can venture up to Lakagígar to learn about the dev-astating effects of the Laki eruptions. Further on, Skaftafell offers a slew of hiking and biking possibilities. Don’t miss a boat ride among oversized ice cubes at Jökulsárlón and a snowmobile safari on Vatnajökull, Europe’s biggest glacier. Pause in Höfn for some legen-dary langoustine, then relax in hushed Breiðdalsvík before negotiating the hairpin fjord roads leading up to peaceful Eskifjörður and inspiring Seyðisfjörður. Follow the rhyo-lite cliffs down to Borgarfjörður Eystri to snap photos of puffins and turf houses, then climb through Vopnafjörður to the grassy plains of Langanes, Iceland’s ‘tail’. The quiet northeastern circuit rolls through Ásbyrgi before dropping off in the charming town of Húsavík for some serious whale watching. Wander around scenic Mývatn, which makes a great base for exploring the pounding waterfall, Dettifoss, and Iceland’s inland treasures like the glittering caldera at Askja and silent ice caves at Kverkfjöll. Stop for a slice of civilisation in Akureyri before touching the Arctic Circle in Grímsey. Wander up through Dalvík, check out Siglufjörður, then treat yourself to a relaxing swim in Hofsós. Learn about ancient witchcraft in Hólmavík, sleep fjordside in Djúpavík and bathe in Norður-fjörður’s geothermal spring. Base yourself in the charming village of Stykkishólmur to ex-plore the myriad treasures of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, from golden beaches and craggy lava fields to glistening ice caps and hidden hot-pots. It’s on to Borgarnes next, followed by Upper Borgarfjörður’s blend of saga sites and hidden caves. Continue the history lesson at Þingvellir National Park, where you can also glimpse the shifting continental plates. Then end the epic journey in Reykjavík, Iceland’s charming cultural stronghold.
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» (above) Svartifoss waterfall (p272), Skaftafell » (left) Town houses along Grettisgata, Reykjavík
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Best of the WestReykjavík Drop-In
Three to Four DaysReykjavík Drop-In
If you’re on a lengthy layover or en-joying a long weekend away, try the following route, which takes in some of the top attractions located within
a stone’s throw of the capital. After land-ing in Keflavík make a beeline for Blue Lagoon to soak away the jetlag. Wander through the steaming earths at Krýsuvík before barrelling down the coastal highway for fresh seafood in Eyrarbakki. Choose a base near Hella or Hvolsvöllur to enjoy a spot of horse riding and Northern Lights viewing (in the colder months). Active bodies will enjoy the stunning hike from Skógar up through the ridge between two brooding ice caps (and the site of the Eyjafjallajökull erup-tion in 2010) then down into Þórsmörk, a silent kingdom filled with wild Arctic flow-ers. Those who are tighter on time can trek along the glacial tongue of Sólheimajökull instead. Swing through gushing Gull-foss, spurting Geysir and the rift-ridden Þingvellir National Park on your way to Reykjavík. Iceland’s capital bustles with an all-star assortment of trendy boutiques, gal-leries and clubs. Don’t forget to stop in Haf-narfjörður to cavort with ‘hidden people’ before returning to the airport.
Two WeeksBest of the West
Start in Reykjavík, enjoying the city’s cafes, bars and museums. Head to Þingvellir National Park to wit-ness the tearing apart of continental
plates, then take in the rosy sunsets in Lau-garvatn before completing the so-called Golden Circle with stops at spurting Geysir and glittering Gullfoss. Rev up the 4WD for a ride along the deserted Kjölur Route, stop-ping in Kerlingarfjöll to admire the striking landscapes. Slide west for a soothing sea-weed bath in Reykhólar before negotiating the sawtooth fjords of Ísafjarðardjúp. Use spunky Ísafjörður or scruffy Bolungarvík as a launch pad to explore the ethereal wil-derness of Hornstrandir, Iceland’s most majestic hiking reserve. Crawl through the heart of the Westfjords, using Þingeyri as a base to check out the region’s photogenic features, like the gushing waters of Dynjan-di. Hop aboard the Baldur ferry and pause in Flatey to disconnect from the world, then alight in charming Stykkishólmur. Swing through Grundarfjörður, meditate atop one of the earth’s chakras at Hellnar, link up with a glacier safari in Arnarstapi, soak your weary bones at Lýsuhóll, then learn about the sagas in Borgarnes before returning to the capital.
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