000 Map pages000 Photo pages

959

Aaccommodation 926activities 30-4, 926-7, see

also individual countriesair travel 932, 933Akha people 690Alor 239Alor Setar 413Amarapura 519-20Amed 213amoebic dysentery 944Ampana 282amusement parks 56, 155, 628An Thoi Islands 890Anakalang 244Andaman Coast 751-72Angkor, temples of 6, 92-9, 134,

84-5, 7, 94-5animals

butterflies 83, 442crocodiles 104, 457dolphins 124-5, 364, 367, 592elephants 132, 346, 689, 703,

717-18 gibbons 350, 756, 13komodo dragons 233monkeys 51, 445, 458, 827 orang-utans 264, 271, 300, 444-5,

458tarsiers 592, 593 tigers 350turtles 274, 421, 827whale sharks 552, 574, 585, 739

Ao Nang 763Apo Island 584aquariums 155, 628Aranya Prathet 105, 669architecture 281, 776-7, 896arts

Cambodia 137 Indonesia 299Myanmar (Burma) 539

Philippines 605-6Thailand 657, 776-7Vietnam 896

ASEAN 911-12, 915Atauro Island 15, 794-5, 15Ava, see Inwa (Ava)Aykab, see Sittwe (Aykab)Ayuthaya 673-7, 674

BBa Be National Park 835Baba-Nonya culture 472Bac Ha 837-8Bach Ma National Park 849-50Bacolod 582-3Bacuit Archipelago 600Bagan 12, 523-9, 530, 524, 12Bago (Pegu) 498-500, 500Baguio 567-8Bai Tu Long Bay 830Bajawa 235-6Bakauheni 247Balangiga Massacre 594Bali 6, 190-216, 191, 6

phone numbers 209travel to/from 177, 192travel within 192

Balibo 797Baliem Valley 291-2Ban Khoun Kham 352Ban Lung 127-8, 128Ban Pakard 103, 729Banana Island 603Banaue 569-70Banda Aceh 265-7Banda Islands 287-90Bandar Seri Begawan 51-6, 466, 469,

470, 52Bandarlampung 246-7Bandung 167Bangar 56, 469, 470Bangkok 8, 648-72, 650-2, 654-6,

660-2, 8accommodation 657-63attractions 648-56clubbing 666, 667drinking 665-6food 663-5safe travel 667-8shopping 666-7street names 648travel to/from 668-70travel within 670-2

Banteay Chhmar 99Banteay Srei 98Banyuwangi 189-92bargaining 40, 141, 375Bario 467-9

Bassein, see Pathein (Bassein)Batad 570Batang Rejang 461-3Batangas 566bathing 927Battambang 99-104, 100Batu Caves 385Batu Ferringhi 412Batu Karas 168Batugade 797Batutumonga 280Baucau 795-6Bavet 79, 883beaches 19

Alona Beach 592Amed 213Balangan Beach 199-200Balian Beach 215Bang Saphan Yai 733Boracay 578-9Canggu Beach 199Cat Co 831Chaung Tha 498China Beach 853Con Dao Islands 867Echo Beach 199El Nido 14, 14 Hoi An 858Hua Hin 731Khao Lak 754Ko Chang 728Ko Phayam 752-3Ko Samet 726-8Ko Samui 734Ko Tao 746-8, 8Kuta (Bali) 193Kuta (Lombok) 230Lan Ha Bay 830Langkawi 414Maumere 238Moalboal 590Mui Ne 865Ngwe Saung 498Nha Trang 859Nusa Lembongan 203Padangbai 211Pangandaran 166Pantai Merah 233Pantai Muara 56Perhentian Islands 424-5Phu Quoc Island 890Phuket 756Puerto Galera 577Pulau Pangkor 404Pulau Weh 267Pura Masceti Beach 210Sangalaki Island 273Sanur 202

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

INDEX B

-C

960beaches continued

Seminyak 198Sihanoukville 111-12Sittwe 533Sugar Beach 583Sumbawa 232Togean Islands 283Vung Tau 884Walu 796

Beaufort District 449bedbugs 945Belaga 461-2beliefs 917-20Ben Tre 885-6Berastagi 259-61, 260Berau 272-3Betano 798Bhamo 531-2bicycle travel 131, 398, 933Biliran Island 594Bilu Kyun (Ogre Island) 503Bima 232Bintulu 463bird sanctuaries 92, 385, 627bites 945Bo Y 363, 859boat tours 19

Brunei Darussalam 57Cambodia 92, 108-9, 114, 119Indonesia 234Laos 367Myanmar (Burma) 505-6Philippines 574, 592, 600-1, 602Singapore 630Thailand 673, 765Vietnam 829, 862, 886, 887, 891

boat travel 309, 697, 932-3Boeng Yeak Laom 127Bogor 162-4, 163Bohol 591-3Bokor National Park 120-1Bolaven Plateau 362Bomba 283Bondowoso 188Bontoc 569books 911, 916, 919, 921, see

also individual countriesBoracay 578-81, 579border crossings 935-9, 936-7, see

also individual countries Borneo

Brunei Darussalam 42, 48-61, 50 Kalimantan 268-74, 269Malaysian 433-70, 434-5

Borobudur 178-9Boten 348Botum Sakor National Park 110-11Brunei Darussalam 42, 48-61, 50

accommodation 59border crossings (to Malaysia) 61business hours 59climate 48culture 48, 59embassies 59-60emergencies 49environment 59etiquette 51food & drink 48, 49, 58history 58-9itineraries 28, 49language 49, 948legal matters 60money 49 travel seasons 48travel to/from 49, 60-1travel within 49, 55, 61visas 60

Buddhism 294-5, 538, 776, 917-18Buddhist New Year (Songkran) 21,

657, 691, 22Bueng Kan 352, 722Bukit Kayu Hitam 413, 751Bukit Lawang 264-5Bukit Peninsula 199-201Bukittinggi 251-4, 252Buon Ma Thuot 871Burma, see Myanmar (Burma)Burma Railway 707bus travel 933business hours 927, see

also individual countriesbutterflies 83, 442Butterworth 405

CCagayan de Oro 596-7Calauit Island 603Calumbuyan Island 603Cambodia 43, 62-146, 64-5, 7, 14

accommodation 139arts 137books 68, 135, 140border crossings (to Laos) 127border crossings (to Thailand) 91,

103, 105, 110border crossings (to Vietnam) 79,

123, 125, 130business hours 139climate 62culture 62, 135-6embassies 139-40emergencies 63

environment 137-8films 97, 135food & drink 138history 133-5holidays 141itineraries 25, 26, 29, 63, 93language 63, 136, 949money 63, 140-1population 135-6religion 136-7safe travel 142travel to/from 144-5travel within 63, 86, 145-6visas 63, 143

Cameron Highlands 401-3, 402Camiguin 597-8Can Tho 886-7Candidasa 211Canggu Beach 199Cao Daism 896car travel 934

hire 934insurance 934

Cat Ba Island 829-34Cat Tien National Park 873Catbalogan 593-4Cau Treo 353, 841caving 326, 337, 344, 385, 464, 465,

466, 593, 704Cebu 585-91Cebu City 585-90, 586, 588cell phones 17cemeteries

Allied War Cemetery 707Bukit China 398Chinese Cemetery 559Chung Kai Allied War Cemetery 708Rantepao 280Santa Cruz Cemetery 791Tompuon cemetery 129Truong Son National Cemetery 849

Central Kalimantan 269-72Cha Lo 355, 847Chaliang 683Cham islands 858Cham Yeam 110, 729Champasak 363-4Chanthaburi 727-8Chau Doc 887-8Chaung Tha 498Cherating 421-2Chi Phat 111Chiang Khong 351, 702, 703Chiang Mai 10, 684-96, 686-8

accommodation 691-2attractions 685-8drinking 693food 692-3

INDEX C

-E961

shopping 693-4travel to/from 694-5travel within 695-6

Chiang Rai 696-9, 698Chiang Saen 701-2Chin State 536Chinese New Year 20, 298, 374,

477, 657Choam 91Chocolate Hills 592Chong Chom 91Chong Kneas 92Chong Mek 362, 720Chong Sa Ngam 91Christianity 920Chua Bai Dinh 827Chumphon 733-4churches & cathedrals, see also

monasteriesBasilica Minore del Santo Niño 586Christ Church 397Gereja Sion 151Notre Dame Cathedral 874San Agustin 553 St Joseph Cathedral 809St Paul’s Church 397

Cianjur 165Cibodas 165Cimaja 164circuses 101climate 16, 30-3, see also individual

countriesclimate change 933Cloud Nine 596colours, meaning of 773Com 796Con Dao Islands 867-8consulates 928cooking courses

Cambodia 68, 87, 89Indonesia 257Laos 317, 332Singapore 629Thailand 656, 689-91, 734, 765, 767Vietnam 815, 856, 865, 874

Cope Centre 317Cordillera, the 14, 566-70Coron 601-2costs 30, see also moneycourses, see also cooking courses,

diving courses, language coursesbatik 421massage 691meditation 689, 691muay thai (boxing) 656-7, 691trapeze 745weaving 332

crocodiles 104, 457Cu Chi 883-4

Cuc Phuong National Park 827-8culture 39-40

Brunei Darussalam 59 Cambodia 97, 135-6Indonesia 268, 281, 297, 298, 299Laos 370-1Malaysia 451, 471-2Myanmar (Burma) 537Philippines 604-5Singapore 637-8Thailand 97, 657, 690, 774-5Timor-Leste 801-2Vietnam 896-7

currency 49customs regulations 927cutaneous larva migrans 942cycling 373

DDalat 868-71, 870Danang 850-2, 852Danau Bratan 212-13Danau Maninjau 254-5Danau Toba 255-9, 256, 258dance 76, 89, 174-5, 178, 299, 473,

539, 657, 777, 802dangers, see safetyDansavanh 359, 848Danum Valley Conservation Area

446-7Dawan people 241Dayak people 451, 462Death Railway Bridge (Kwai River

Bridge) 707decompression chambers 448Deepavali 24, 476, 22Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) 849dengue 942Denpasar 201-2, 201diarrhoea 944Dien Bien Phu 841-2Dieng Plateau 169digital photography 929Dili 241, 790-4, 790

accommodation 792-3attractions 790-2food & drink 793shopping 793travel to/from 794travel within 794

disabilities, travellers with 902-3, 930Brunei Darussalam 60Malaysia 478Myanmar (Burma) 546 Philippines 610Thailand 782

discount cards 397, 643, 927discrimination 927

diving 19, 31, 39 Indonesia 216, 220, 222-3Philippines 601Malaysia 418, 448Thailand 744, 754, 764, 771Timor-Leste 15, 795, 803, 15

diving courses (PADI) 113, 222, 267, 422, 424, 448, 607, 744, 752-3, 792, 890-1

dolphins 124-5, 364, 367, 592Dom Kralor 365Don Det 366-9Don Khon 366-9Don Khong 364-6Dongxing 834Donsol 574drinking water 138, 303, 372, 473,

541, 581, 638, 778, 804, 945driving licences 927drugs 141, 325, 349, 701, 929Dumaguete 583-4Dumai 401Duong Dong 890

EEast Kalimantan 272-3Echo Beach 199economy 910-12ecotourism 38, 81, 111, 130, 376El Nido 14, 600-1, 14electricity 927-8

Cambodia 139Myanmar (Burma) 541 Thailand 780Timor-Leste 804Vietnam 900

elephants 132, 346, 689, 703, 717-18embassies 928emergencies, see individual

countriesEnde 236-7Entikong 456environmental issues 37-9etiquette 39-40, 51 305, 329, 367,

605, 690, 775 events 20-4exchange rates 929

Brunei Darussalam 49Cambodia 63Indonesia 148Laos 312Malaysia 380Myanmar (Burma) 484Philippines 552Singapore 615Thailand 645Timor-Leste 788Vietnam 808

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

INDEX F-I

962FFansipan 838Festival of the Nine Emperor Gods 23festivals 20-4, see also individual

countriesfilms 912

Malaysia 473Philippines 606Thailand 707Vietnam 894

fish spas 387fishing 338, 367, 431, 891floating markets 672, 673, 676, 886Flores 233-9food & drink 18, see also individual

countriesForestry Research Institute

of Malaysia 393Four Thousand Islands

(Si Phan Don) 364-6Fretilin 799full-moon parties 740

Ggalleries, see museums & galleriesgamelan 174gardens, see parks & gardensGaungse Kyun 503gay & lesbian travellers 928

Brunei Darussalam 60Cambodia 140Indonesia 305Malaysia 389, 476Myanmar (Burma) 542Philippines 608Singapore 640Thailand 666, 781Timor-Leste 804Vietnam 821, 901

Georgetown 406-12, 408giardiasis 944Gibbon Experience 350gibbons 350, 756, 13Gili Islands 222-9, 223, 226, 228Gilimanuk 215Goa Gajah 210Golden Rock, see Kyaiktiyo

(Golden Rock)Golden Triangle 349, 699-702, 700Gorontalo 283Green Canyon 168Gunung Batukau 215Gunung Batur 212Gunung Bromo 186-8

Gunung Gede 165Gunung Kawi 210Gunung Mulu National Park 465-6Gunung Rinjani 229Gunung Tahan 430Gusmão, Xanana 793, 799

HHa Tien 888-9Haiphong 834-5Halong Bay 8, 828, 829, 9Halong City 828-9handicraft villages

Myanmar (Burma) 503Thailand 713, 718Vietnam 826, 855

Hang Nga Crazy House 868Hanoi 11, 809-26, 812, 814, 816-17,

820, 822, 11accommodation 815-17attractions 809-15clubbing 821drinking 818-21emergencies 823food 817-18shopping 822-3travel to/from 824-5travel within 825-6

Hat Lek 110, 729Hat Yai 750-1Hatubuilico 797-8hawker food, see street foodheadhunting 451health 940-6

insurance 940vaccinations 942

heat stroke 945Hekou 837Hellfire Pass 710hepatitis 942, 943hill tribes 690, 696, 705, 837, 838,

872, 929Hinduism 294-5, 920history 913-16hitching 309, 378, 481, 786, 806, 934HIV 943Hmong people 690, 838Ho Chi Minh 722, 812-13, 895Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) 872-83,

872, 875, 876, 878, 880accommodation 874-6attractions 872-4clubbing 879-80drinking 877-9food 876-7shopping 880-1travel to/from 882-3travel within 883

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum 812-13Ho Chi Minh Trail 132, 871Hoa Lu 827Hoan Kiem Lake 809Hoi An 10, 853-8, 854, 10holidays

Cambodia 141Indonesia 305Laos 376Malaysia 477-8Myanmar (Burma) 544Philippines 609Singapore 640Thailand 782Timor-Leste 804-5Vietnam 902

homestaysCambodia 81, 104, 111, 126, 133Indonesia 165, 169, 208, 294Laos 346, 352, 372-3Malaysia 446, 449, 459, 462, 468Thailand 723Vietnam 835, 886, 900

Hon Mieu 862Hon Mun 862Hon Tre 862Hon Yen 862Hospital Cave 831hot springs

Berastagi 260Gunung Rinjani 229Kaung Daing 508Poring Hot Springs 442Ranong 751Tha Pai Hot Springs 702

hot-air balloons 327Hpa-an 504Hsipaw 522-3Hua Hin 731-2Hua Thanon 734Huay Xai 349-50, 351, 703Hue 842-9, 844-5Hu’u 232Huu Nghi Quan 834

IIbrahim, Anwar 919Ifugao rice terraces 14, 569-70, 14Ijen Plateau 188-9Iloilo 581-2immigration 930independence movements 914-5Indonesia 43, 147-310, 149, 6-7

accommodation 303-4arts 299books 304 border crossings (to Malaysia) 270

INDEX I-L

963border crossings (to Papua New

Guinea) 291border crossings (to Timor-Leste)

241business hours 304climate 147culture 147, 297embassies 304emergencies 148environment 299-301etiquette 305festivals 155, 181, 243, 298, 6food & drink 147, 301-3history 294-7holidays 305language 148, 948money 148population 297religion 297-9safe travel 160, 190, 222, 305travel seasons 147travel to/from 148, 307travel within 307-10visas 306

influenza 943Inle Lake 13, 505-8, 13insurance 928

car & motorcycle 934health 940

internet access 928internet resources 17, 37, 926

air tickets 933Laos 312Myanmar (Burma) 543 Vietnam 823

Inwa (Ava) 520Ipoh 403-4Irian Jaya, see Papua (Irian Jaya)Irrawaddy dolphins 124-5, 364, 367Isan cuisine 715Islam 295, 918-19itineraries 25-9, see also individual

countries

JJaco Island 796Jakarta 150-62, 152, 154, 157, 158

accommodation 155-6attractions 151-5drinking 157-9clubbing 159food 156-7, 159shopping 159-60travel to/from 160-2travel within 162

Java 149-90, 150-1Jayapura 290, 291jellyfish stings 945-6

Jemaah Islamiyah 921Jerantut 428-30Jerudong 56Johor Bahru 416-17, 642Jungle Railway 429

KKaam Samnor 79, 888Kabayan mummies 569Kabonduk 244Kachon 129Kakaban Island 273Kalaw 508-10, 509Kalimantan 268-74, 269Kaliurang 181Kamphaeng Phet 684Kampot 118-20, 118Kampung Tarung 243Kanchanaburi 707-10, 708Kangar 413, 751Kapit 461Karen people 690, 711Katha 532Kaung Daing 508Kawthoung (Victoria Point) 505, 753kayaking 326, 338, 373, 607, 758, 831Kelabit Highlands 467-9Kelabit people 467Kelimutu 237Kep 121-2Khao Lak 754-5Khao Sok National Park 753-4Khao Yai National Park 716Khe Sanh Combat Base 849Khmer empire 134, 913Khmer Rouge 104, 107, 132, 135,

136, 914Killing Caves of Phnom Sampeau

104Killing Fields of Choeung Ek 67Pol Pot 135

Khorat, see Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat)

Kilise 292Kinabalu National Park 440Kinpun 502kitesurfing 31, 421, 552, 579, 758,

865, 927, 19klotoks 15, 271, 272Klungkung, see Semarapura

(Klungkung)Ko Adang 771Ko Chang (Andaman Coast) 752Ko Chang (Gulf of Thailand) 728-31Ko Kra 771Ko Kradan 769Ko Lanta 767-8Ko Libong 769

Ko Lipe 414, 770-1Ko Muk 769Ko Ngai 769Ko Pha-Ngan 738-44, 739 Ko Phayam 752-3Ko Phi-Phi 764-7, 765, 766Ko Samet 726-7, 725Ko Samui 734-8, 735Ko Sukorn 769Ko Tao 8, 744-9, 745, 746, 8Koh Ker 106-8Koh Kong Conservation Corridor 110-11Koh Kong Island 111Komodo 233komodo dragons 233Kompong Cham 122-4Kompong Luong 104Kompong Pluk 92Kompong Som (Sihanoukville)

111-17, 112Kon Tum 871Kong Lo cave 352Kota Ambon 285-6Kota Bharu 426-8, 427Kota Kinabalu 433-40, 436Krabi Town 762-3Krakatau 246Kratie 124-6, 124Krong Koh Kong 108-10, 109 Krui 247Kuala Besut 424Kuala Lumpur 382-95, 384, 386-7,

390-1accommodation 387-8attractions 383-7clubbing 392drinking 392food 389-92shopping 392-3travel to/from 393-4travel within 394-5

Kuala Perlis 413, 770Kuala Terengganu 422-4, 423Kuantan 420-1, 420Kuching 11, 450-7, 452, 11Kumai 271Kupang 240-1, 240Kurima 292Kuta (Bali) 193-9, 194Kuta (Lombok) 230-1Kwai River Bridge 707Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) 502-3

LLabuanbajo 234-5Labuhan Lombok 231Lakey Beach 232

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

INDEX L-M

964Lamai 734Lambir Hills National Park 464Lan Ha Bay 830landmines 105, 132, 142, 317, 341, 930Langkawi, see Pulau Langkawilanguage 947-55, see also individual

countrieslanguage courses

Cambodia 101Laos 317Malaysia 387Thailand 691Vietnam 901

Lao Bao 359, 848Lao Cai 836-7Laos 43, 311-78, 314-15, 9

accommodation 372-3activities 373 arts 371books 373-4 border crossings (to Cambodia) 365border crossings (to China) 348 border crossings (to Thailand) 321,

351, 352, 354, 357, 362 border crossings (to Vietnam) 339,

342, 345, 353, 355, 359, 363business hours 374climate 311culture 311, 329, 367, 370-1embassies 374emergencies 312, 322environment 346, 372etiquette 329, 367festivals 317, 333, 363, 374food & drink 311, 371-2history 369-70holidays 376itineraries 25, 26, 29, 312language 312, 950-1media 375money 312, 375politics 369population 370-1religion 371safe travel 325, 341travel seasons 311travel to/from 377travel within 377-8visas 312

Larantuka 239Lawas 469Le Thanh 130, 874Lee Kuan Yew, Harry 623leeches 945

legal matters 928Indonesia 305Laos 325, 375Malaysia 477Myanmar (Burma) 543Singapore 640Thailand 781 Timor-Leste 804Vietnam 901

Legazpi 573Leihitu 287Lembar 219leptospirosis 943lesbian travellers, see gay & lesbian

travellersLeyte, see Samar & LeyteLimbang Division 469-70Liquiçá 797literature 911, 916, 919, 921, see

also books, individual countries Loc Ninh 125Loi Krathong 680Lombok 217-31, 218

travel to/from 217, 234travel within 218

longboats 57longhouses 458-9, 461, 462, 467, 468Lopburi 677-9Lospalos 797Lovina 213-15Luang Nam Tha 346-7Luang Prabang 9, 329-37, 330, 9

accommodation 333-4attractions 329-32drinking 335shopping 335-6travel to/from 336-7travel within 337

Lumut 404lunar new year 20, 298, 374, 477, 657

MMacarthur, General Douglas 594Mae Hong Son 705-6Mae Sa Valley 696Mae Sai 511, 700-1Mae Salong 700Mae Sariang 706Mae Sot 711-13Mai Chau 835-6Makassar (Ujung Padang) 276-8, 276Malang 183-6Malapascua Island 590-1malaria 599, 804, 943Malaysia 44, 379-482, 381, 382,

434-5, 11accommodation 474arts 472-3

books 474, 475 border crossings (to Brunei) 466,

469, 470border crossings (to Indonesia)

401, 417, 447, 456border crossings (to Philippines)

444border crossings (to Singapore)

416border crossings (to Thailand) 413,

414, 428business hours 475climate 379culture 379, 471-2embassies 475environment 473-4festivals 463, 476food & drink 379, 380, 399, 407,

410, 454, 473history 470-1holidays 477-8itineraries 25, 26, 28, 29, 380language 380, 948-9media 477money 380, 397, 477politics 470population 472safe travel 475travel seasons 379travel to/from 380, 479-80travel within 481-2visas 380, 478-9

Maluku 285-8, 286 Mambajao 597-8Manado 283-4Mandalay 510-19, 512, 514, 516

accommodation 513-15attractions 511-13food 515, 517shopping 516-17travel to/from 518-19, 520travel within 519

mangroves 108, 110-11Manila 553-66, 556-7, 558, 560

accommodation 559-61attractions 553-9drinking 562-3food 561-2shopping 563travel to/from 564-5travel within 565-6

maps 929Marang 422Marble Mountains 852-3markets

Cambodia 76, 89, 91, 123Indonesia 153, 160, 172, 212,

242, 301Laos 332, 335, 341

INDEX M

965Malaysia 387, 392-3, 398, 420, 422,

427, 428, 433, 439, 451, 469Myanmar (Burma) 491-2, 498, 501,

505, 506, 517, 521, 522, 530, 532Philippines 553, 567, 587Thailand 649, 667, 678, 694, 698,

700, 703, 711, 723, 768Timor-Leste 793, 798Vietnam 10, 837, 848, 881, 886-7

massage 685, 691Mataram 219, 219Maubara 797Maubisse 797Maumere 238Mawlamyine (Moulmein) 503-4Maymyo, see Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo)measles 943measures & weights 608, 781Medan 261-4, 262media

Brunei Darussalam 60Laos 322, 375Malaysia 393, 477Singapore 640Thailand 668, 694, 781

medical services 941Mekong Delta 884-92, 885Mekong River 126, 137, 364, 721Melaka 395-401, 396Mengwi 215Mentawai Islands 251Mersing 417-18Mindanao 595-8Mindoro 574-7Mingun 520-1Miri 464-5, 466Moalboal 590mobile phones 17Moc Bai 79, 883Móhān 348monasteries

Bagaya Kyaung 520Kha Khat Wain Kyaung 499Kong Meng San Phor Kark see

Monastery 625Maha Aungmye Bonzan 520Nga Phe Kyaung 505Pa-Auk-Taw-Ya Monastery 503Sagaing Hill 520Shwe In Bin Kyaung 513Shwenandaw Kyaung 513

Mondulkiri Province 130-2money 17, 30, 35, 929, see

also individual countriesdiscount cards 397, 643, 927

Mong Cai 834Moni 237-8monkeys 51, 445, 458, 827Monywa 530

mosquesJama Mosque 533Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque

53Kapitan Keling Mosque 407Masjid Jamek 383Masjid Kampung Kling 398Masjid Negara 383Masjid Negeri 420Mesjid Raya 261Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman 266Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque 51Sabah State Mosque 434Sultan Mosque 621

motorcycle travel 145-6, 836, 869, 906, 934

insurance 934Moulmein, see Mawlamyine

(Moulmein)Moustache Brothers 518Mrauk U (Myohaung) 534-5, 535Mt Kinabalu 438, 440-2Mt Kyaiktiyo, see Kyaiktiyo

(Golden Rock)Mt Matebian 796Mt Mayon 573-4Mt Ramelau 797-8Mt Zwegabin 504Muang Ngoi Neua 339-40Muang Sing 348-9Muara 56muay thai (boxing) 656, 666, 691,

758, 776courses 656-7, 691

Mui Ne 865-7, 866Mukdahan 357, 721mummies

Bailem Valley 292Kabayan 569

Munduk 213Mu-Se 533museums & galleries

Adityawarman Museum 249Affandi Museum 172Agung Rai Museum of Art 204Alexandre Yersin Museum 861Ancient City 658Angkor National Museum 81Archaeological Museum 523Arte Moris 791Asian Civilisations Museum 618Ayala Museum 559Ayuthaya Historical Study Centre

675Baba House 619Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum

398Balai Seni Rupa 153Ban Chiang 724

Bank Negara Malaysia Museum & Art Gallery 383

Battambang Museum 99Brunei Museum 51Buddha Museum 506Cambodia Landmine Museum 83Canada Hill 464Casa Gorordo Museum 586Cathay Gallery 624Champasak Historical Heritage

Museum 359Chantharakasem National Museum

675Chao Sam Phraya National

Museum 675Chega! Exhibition 790Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural

Centre 685Chiang Mai National Museum 685Chiang Saen National Museum 701Chinatown Heritage Centre 619Chinese History Museum 450-1Crisologo Museum 570Dien Bien Phu Museum 841East Nusa Tenggara Museum 240Fine Arts Museum 814Fort Siloso 628Fort Sylvia 461Haiphong Museum 834Hall of Opium 701HCMC Museum 873Hilltribe Museum & Education

Center 696History Museum (HCMC) 874Ho Chi Minh Museum 813Hoa Lo Prison Museum 809Hotel Tugu Malang 184House of Opium 701Images of Singapore 628Islamic Arts Museum 385Jakarta History Museum 153Jeath War Museum 708Jim Thompson’s House 653-4Junglebluesdream Art Gallery 468Kamphaeng Phet National Museum

684Karmawibhangga archaeological

museum 178Kompleks Muzium Negeri

Terengganu 423Kota Kinabalu Wetland Centre 434Lam Dong Museum 869Limbang Regional Museum 469Lopburi National Museum 678Luang Nam Tha Museum 346Malay Heritage Centre 621Mon Cultural Museum 503Monsopiad Cultural Village 435Mulu Discovery Centre 466

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

INDEX M

-N

966museums & galleries continued

Musee Des Dinosaures 355Museo Iloilo 581Museo ng Sining 559Museum Bahari 153Museum Loka Budaya 290Museum Negeri Banda Aceh 266Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali 202Museum of Cham Sculpture 851Museum of Islamic Civilisation 434Museum of Siam 649Museum of Trading Ceramics 855Museum Puri Lukisan 204Museum Wayang 152-3Musium Bung Karno 236Muzium Diraja Abu Bakar 416National Art Gallery (Kuala

Lumpur) 385-6National Art Gallery

(Philippines) 559National History Museum 155National Museum (Bangkok) 649National Museum (Jakarta) 153National Museum (Kuala

Lumpur) 385National Museum (Myanmar) 486National Museum (Phnom Penh)

14, 67National Museum of Singapore 618National Museum of the Filipino

People 559Neka Art Museum 204Niah Archaeology Museum 464NUS Art Museums 627Oceanographic Institute 861Oub Kham Museum 696Palawan Museum 598Penang Museum 407Peranakan Museum 618Phimai National Museum 716photographic galleries (Nha

Trang) 861Phra Narai Ratchaniwet 677-8Pinang Peranakan Mansion 406Purna Bhakti Pertiwi Museum 155Raffles Hotel Museum 618Rainforest Discovery Centre 445Rakhaing State Cultural

Museum 533Ramkhamhaeng National

Museum 681Resistance Museum 791Revolutionary Museum 867Royal Palace Museum 329Royal Regalia Museum 51

Sabah State Museum 433Samudraraksa museum 178San Agustin Museum 553Sarawak Cultural Village 458Sarawak Museum 450Savannakhet Provincial Museum

355Sergeant Major Thawee Folk

Museum 679Sibu Heritage Centre 460Singapore Art Museum 618Sono-Budoyo Museum 171-2Stadthuys 397Syquia Mansion Museum 571Thailand-Burma Railway Centre

707Thalang National Museum 756Tribal Museum 348Tsunami Museum 266Tuol Sleng Museum 67Twelve Roofs House 52Ubon Ratchathani National

Museum 720Vietnam Museum of Ethnology

814-15Villa Sentosa 398War Remnants Museum 872Women’s Museum 809World War II Museum 707Xanana Gusmão Museum, Art Gal-

lery & Reading Room 791Xieng Khuan (Buddha Park) 313-14Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage

Center 652music

Myanmar (Burma) 539Philippines 605Thailand 776 Timor-Leste 802Vietnam 896

My Son 858-9My Tho 884-5Myanmar (Burma) 44, 483-550,

485, 12, 13accommodation 541, 542arts 539 books 532, 538 border crossings (to China) 533border crossings (to Thailand)

505, 511business hours 541-2climate 483culture 483, 537embassies 542emergencies 484, 492environment 539festivals 505, 530, 545food & drink 483, 484, 540-1history 536

holidays 544itineraries 26, 29, 484language 484, 947-8media 541money 484, 486, 543-4name 537politics 536population 538religion 537-9safe travel 541, 544travel seasons 483travel to/from 484, 547-8travel within 504, 548-50visas 484, 546, 547

Myawadi 712Myitkyina 530-1Myohaung, see Mrauk U (Myohaung)

NNa Meo 345, 828Na Phao 355, 847Nabucco Island 274Naga 572-3Nakhon Phanom 354, 722-3Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) 713-15,

714Nam Can 342, 829Nam Phao 353, 841Nam Tok Na Muang 734Nam Xoi 345, 828Nat worship 539national parks & reserves

Ang Thong Marine National Park 736

Ba Be National Park 835Bako National Park 457Bokor National Park 120-1Botum Sakor National Park 110-11Bukit Timah Nature Reserve 628Cat Ba National Park 830Cat Tien National Park 873Cuc Phuong National Park 827-8Doi Inthanon National Park 696Erawan National Park 710Forestry Research Institute of

Malaysia 393Gunung Gading National Park 459Gunung Mulu National Park 465-6Kep National Park 121Khao Sok National Park 753-4Khao Yai National Park 716Kinabalu National Park 440-2Kirirom National Park 81Ko Tarutao National Park 772Komodo National Park 233Kubah National Park 459Lambir Hills National Park 464Lang Bian Mountain 871-2

INDEX N

-P967

Mt Isarog National Park 572Mu Ko Lanta Marine National

Park 768Nam Ha National Protected Area

346Niah National Park 463-4Northern Negros Natural Park 582Peam Krasaop Wildlife Sanctuary

108Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park

842-3Phu Quoc National Park 890Popa Mountain Park 531Prek Toal Bird Reserve 92Puerto Princesa Subterranean

River National Park 599Ream National Park 117Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary

204Semenggoh Nature Reserve 458Sirinat National Park 758Surin Islands Marine National

Park 755Taman Nasional Bali Barat 215Taman Nasional Gunung Leuser

264Taman Nasional Pangandaran 166Taman Negara 430Tangkoko-Batuangas Dua Saudara

Nature Reserve 282Tanjung Puting National Park 15,

271-2, 15Tram Chin National Park 890Tunku Abdul Rahman National

Park 435Ulu Temburong National Park

12, 57-8Virachey National Park 130Way Kambas National Park 247Yok Don National Park 871

Negros 582-4New Year celebrations

Buddhist new year (Songkran) 21, 657, 685, 691, 22

Burmese new year (Thingyan) 545Chinese New Year 20, 298, 374,

477, 657Hindu new year (Nyepi) 21, 298Islamic new year 298Kayin new year 545Lao new year (Pii Mai) 317, 333, 375Vietnamese new year (Tet) 20, 374

Ngada people 236Ngwe Saung 498Nha Trang 859-64, 860Niah National Park 463-4Nias 255Niki Niki 242Ninh Binh 826-7Nong Haet 342, 829

Nong Khai 321, 722-4Nong Khiaw 337-9Nong Nok Khiene 127, 365noodles 911North Luzon 566Nunukan 270, 447Nusa Lembongan 203-4Nusa Tenggara 216-44, 216-17Nyaung U 526-7, 528Nyaungshwe 505-8, 507

OO Smach 91O Yadaw 130, 874Oecussi 798-9Oinlasi 242opening hours 927, see

also individual countriesopium 349, 701Orang Asli 432orang-utans 264, 271, 300, 444-5,

458Ork Phansaa 23Ossu 796

PPadang 247-51, 248Padang Besar 413, 751Padangbai 211Padre Burgos 595pagodas, see temples, pagodas &

stupasPai 702-5Pak Bara 771Pakokku 529-30Paksan 352, 722Pakse 358-62, 358palaces

Bao Dai’s Summer Palace 868Grand Palace (Bangkok) 648-9Istana Nurul Iman 53Kanbawzathadi Palace 499Kraton 171, 175Kraton Surakarta 179-80Mandalay Palace & Fort 513Mayura Water Palace 219Presidential Palace (Hanoi) 813Presidential Palace (Timor-Leste)

791-2Reunification Palace 873Royal Palace (Phnom Penh) 66-7Taman Sari 171

Palawan 598-602palm oil 272Panay 578-82Pangandaran 165-8, 166Pangkalan Bun 270-1Panglao Island 592-3

Pangururan 257Pantemakassar 798Papua (Irian Jaya) 288-94, 289

visitor permits 290Parapat 256parasites 946Paris Peace Accords 135parks & gardens

Dusit Palace Park 653East Coast Park 625Fort Canning Park 618Gardens by the Bay 619Kebun Raya 162-3Kebun Raya Botanical Gardens

(Cibodas) 165Lake Gardens Park 385Lenin Park 815Mahabandoola Garden 486-7Miri City Fan 464National Kandawgyi Gardens 521Rizal Park 559Sala Kaew Ku 723Singapore Botanic Gardens 623Taman Panorama 251Waterfront Promenade (Kuching)

450Pasola Festival 243Pass Valley 293passports 929, 930Pathein (Bassein) 496-8Pegu, see Bago (Pegu)Pekanbaru 268, 401Pemuteran 215-16Penang 11, 405-12, 406Penelokan 212pepper 119Peranakan people 472Perfume Pagoda 826Petronas Towers 383-4Phanom Rung Historical Park 717Philippines 14, 44, 551-613, 554-5,

14accommodation 607activities 607arts 605-6books 601, 605 border crossings (to Malaysia) 596business hours 607climate 551, 608culture 551, 604-5embassies 608environment 581, 606-7etiquette 605festivals 571, 582food & drink 606history 603-4holidays 609itineraries 29, 552

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

INDEX P

-S

968Philippines continued

language 552, 948money 552, 609politics 602population 605safe travel 609travel seasons 551travel to/from 552, 611-12travel within 612-13visas 552, 610

Phimai 715-16Phitsanulok 679-80Phnom Bakheng 97Phnom Banan 104Phnom Chisor 80Phnom Den 79, 888Phnom Penh 14, 66-80, 66, 70-2,

74-5accommodation 68-70attractions 66-8, 75-6drinking 73-5food 70-3shopping 76-7travel to/from 67, 78-9travel within 79-80

Phnom Sampeau 104Phnom Tamao Wildlife Sanctuary 80Phong Nha Cave 842Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park

842-3Phonsavan 340-2photography 929Phou Keua 363, 859Phu Quoc Island 889-90Phuket 756-62, 757Pii Mai 317, 333, 375Pindaya 510Plain of Jars 340, 342planning, see also individual

countriesborder crossings 935-9, 935budgeting 16, 30-6calendar of events 20-4internet resources 17itineraries 25-9medical checklist 940packing 34-6responsible travel 37-41Southeast Asia basics 16-17Southeast Asia’s regions 42-5travel seasons 16, 20-4, 30-3

Poe, Tony 338Poipet 105, 106, 669Pol Pot 135

politics 910-12population 910, 911, see

also individual countriesPort Barton 600Poso 282postal services 929Poto Tano 231pottery 83, 683, 713Prachuap Khiri Khan 732-3Praigoli 244Praiyawang 243Prambanan 177-8Prasat Preah Vihear 105, 107Preah Khan 97-8Preah Neak Poan 98Preah Vihear Province 104-8Prek Chak 123, 889Prome, see Pyay (Prome)prostitution 41, 609Psar Pruhm 103, 729Puerto Galera 574-7, 576 Puerto Princesa 598-9Pulau Ambon 285-7Pulau Batam 417Pulau Batu Daka 283Pulau Bengkalis 401Pulau Bintan 417Pulau Bunaken 284-5Pulau Derawan 273-4Pulau Duyung Besar 423Pulau Kadidiri 283Pulau Kapas 422Pulau Labuan 449-50Pulau Langkawi 413-15, 770, 771Pulau Menjangan 216Pulau Nias 255Pulau Pangkor 404-5Pulau Perhentian 424-6Pulau Pinang, see PenangPulau Samosir 256-70, 256, 258Pulau Sipadan 438Pulau Ternate 288Pulau Tidore 288Pulau Tioman 418-20, 418Pulau Ubin 628Pulau Weh 267-8puppetry, 175, 516, 539, see

also water puppetryPyay (Prome) 501Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo) 521-2

QQuelicai 796

RRaba 232rabies 943Rach Gia 889

rafting 373, 552, 596, 607, 862Railay 763-4Rainforest World Music Festival

23, 476Raja Ampat Islands 293-4Ramayana 920Ramos-Horta, Jośe 793, 799Ranong 505, 751-2, 753Rantau Panjang 428Rantepao 278-80Ratanakiri Province 127-9Ream National Park 117religion 911, 917-20, see

also individual countries, individual religions

Rende 243responsible travel 37-41

Cambodia 73, 77, 87, 129, 142Malaysia 478Myanmar 488Singapore 640

Riau archipelago 642rice terraces 14, 569-70, 14Rinca 233Riung 237Rizal, Dr José 604road rules 934rock climbing 373, 607, 763, 764, 831Roluos temples 98Roxas 577Ruili 533

SSabah 433-50Sabang 599-600Sadao 413, 751Saddar Cave 504safety 929-30, see also individual

countriesdrink spiking 864drinking water 138, 303, 372, 473,

541, 581, 638, 778, 804, 945drugs 141, 325, 349, 701, 929 food & water 945 full-moon parties 740hitching 309, 378, 481, 786, 806,

934theft 930trouble spots 428, 595, 921-3tubing 325, 327, 373 unexploded ordnance 105, 132, 142,

317, 341, 930Sagada 568-9Sagaing 520Sam Neua 343-4Samar & Leyte 593-5Same 798Samoeng 696Samut Prakan 658

INDEX S

-T969

Sandakan 443-4Sangalaki Island 273Sangkhlaburi 710-11Santubong Peninsula 458Sanur 202-3Sapa 838-41, 839Sape 232-3Sarawak 450-70Satun 413, 414, 770Savannakhet 355-8, 721, 356scams 929-30

Cambodia 106Laos 337Malaysia 419Philippines 564Thailand 653Vietnam 813

schistosomiasis 943Secret War 349, 370Semarapura (Klungkung) 210-11Seminyak 193-9, 196Semporna 447-8Semporna Archipelago 448-9Sen Monorom 130-2Senaru 229-30Senggigi 220-2, 221Sentani 291Sepilok 444-5sexually transmitted diseases 943-4Shan State 504-10sharia law 919Shwedagon Paya 486Si Phan Don 364-9, 366 Si Satchanalai 683Siargao 595-6Sibu 459-61Siem Reap 81-91, 82-3

accommodation 87-8attractions 81-3, 86, 89drinking 89food 88-9shopping 89-90travel to/from 90-1travel within 91

Sihanoukville 111-17, 112 Sikka 238silversmiths 175Simanindo 257Similan Islands Marine National

Park 755-6Singapore 45, 416, 614-43, 616-17,

620, 622, 626, 22accommodation 630-1, 638attractions 618-28border crossings (to Indonesia)

642border crossings (to Malaysia) 642business hours 638

climate 614, 639clubbing 635culture 614, 637-8embassies 639emergencies 636environment 638festivals 639food & drink 12, 614, 615, 631-3,

639, 12history 637holidays 640itineraries 25, 28, 615language 615money 615, 640population 615, 638religion 638safe travel 639shopping 635-6travel to/from 641-3travel within 615, 643visas 615, 641

Sipalay 583Siquijor 584-5Sittwe (Aykab) 532-4snake bites 946snorkelling 19, 220, 284, 744, 754, 764Soe 241-2Solo (Surakarta) 179-83, 180Songkran (Buddhist New Year) 21,

657, 691, 22Sop Hun 339, 840Sorong 292-3splurge

Brunei Darussalam 57Cambodia 71, 88, 115, 122Indonesia 183, 185, 197, 208, 258Laos 332, 335Malaysia 389, 455Myanmar (Burma) 515Philippines 567, 571, 577, 580,

591, 602Singapore 633, 634Thailand 738, 741Timor-Leste 793Vietnam 819

Srivijaya empire 913stings 945street food

Malaysia 399, 407, 410, 423, 437, 454, 460

Myanmar 489Thailand 679, 731Vietnam 11, 819, 11

street numbers 69Strongyloides 944student cards 927Stung Treng 126-7stupas, see temples, pagodas &

stupas

Suai 798Sukhothai 680-3Sukhothai Historical Park 680-3, 681Sulawesi 274-85, 275Sumatra 161, 244-68, 245Sumba 242-6Sumbawa 231-3Sumbawa Besar 231-2sunburn 946Sungai Kinabatangan 438, 445-6Sungai Kolok 428Surabaya 184Surakarta, see Solo (Surakarta)Surat Thani 749-50surfing 31, 148, 193, 230, 251, 255,

303, 421, 758, 927Siargao 596Surigao 595Surin 717-19Surin Islands Marine National Park

755sustainable travel 933synagogues 487

TTa Prohm 97taboos 39, 40, 370, 690Tachileik 511, 701Tacloban 594Tagaytay 566Tagbilaran 591-2tàkrâw 776Tam Coc 827Taman Negara 430-3Tana Toraja 278-81, 279Tangkoko-Batuangas Dua Saudara

Nature Reserve 282Tanjung Puting National Park 15,

271-2, 15Tarakan 447Tarimbang 243tarsiers 592, 593Tat Lo 362-3Taungoo 500-1Taungthaman 519Tawau 270, 447Tay Ho (West Lake) 815Tay Ninh 884Tay Tran 339Tay Trang 840Tbeng Meanchey 105tea 401Tebedu 456telephone services 17, 143, 376, 478,

544, 609-10, 640, 782, 805Teluk Bahang 412Temburong District 12, 56-8temple architecture 676

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

INDEX T

970temples, pagodas & stupas 18

Angkor 92-9, 84-5, 7, 94-5Arjuna Temples 169Assembly Hall of the Fujian

Chinese Congregation 855Aung Chan Thar Zedi 508Bach Ma Temple 809Bagan 523-6, 524, 12Ban Po Thar 412Banteay Chhmar 99Banteay Srei 98Battambang 99Batu Caves 385Borobudur 178Botataung Paya 486Buddha Tooth Relic Temple 619Candi Sukuh 183Chaukhtatgyi Paya 487Cheng Hoon Teng 398Chiang Mai 685-6, 10Chua Bai Dinh 827Du Hang Pagoda 834Erawan Shrine 656Haw Pha Kaew 313Hpan Pu Mountain 504Hsinbyume Paya 521Hue 846Inthein 505Ipoh cave temples 403Jade Emperor Pagoda 873Kanchanaburi 708Kek Lok Si Temple 412, 11Kheng Hock Keong 487Ko Samui 734Koh Ker 106Kong Meng San Phor Kark See

Monastery 625-7Kuan Yin Teng 407Kuthodaw Paya 513Kyaikthanlan Paya 503Kyaiktiyo 502Kyauktawgyi Paya 519Lokananda Paya 533Long Son Pagoda 860Luang Prabang 332Mae Hong Son 705Mahamuni Paya 513Mahamyatmuni Paya 522Mahazedi Paya 499Mariamman Hindu Temple (HCMC)

874Million Bottle Temple 718Mingun Paya 520Mrauk U 534

My Son 858Ngoc Son Temple 809One Pillar Pagoda 813Pakse 359Perfume Pagoda 826Pha That Luang 313Phnom Bakheng 97Phnom Chhnork 120Phnom Sampeau 104Phnom Sorsia 120Phu Si 331-2Po Nagar Cham Towers 859Po Shanu Cham Tower 865Popa Taung Kalat 531Prachuap Khiri Khan 732Prambanan 177-8Prang Sam Yot 678Prasat Muang Tam 717Prasat Preah Vihear 105Preah Khan 97-8Preah Neak Poan 98Pura Batu Bolong 220Pura Luhur Batukau 215Pura Meru 219Pura Petitenget 193Pura Taman Ayun 215Pura Tanah Lot 215Pura Ulun Danau Bratan 212Quan Cong Temple 855Roluos 98Sacred Monkey Forest

Sanctuary 204Sakaya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple

621Sam Poh Temple 401Sambor Prei Kuk 108Sandamuni Paya 513Sehtatgyi Paya 501Settayaw Paya 497Shittaung Paya 534Shwe Kyina Pagoda 531Shwe Oo Min Natural Cave Pagoda

510Shwedagon Paya 486Shwemawdaw Paya (Pathein) 499Shwemokhtaw Paya (Bago) 497Shwemyetman Paya 501Shwesandaw Paya 500, 501Sri Mahamariamman Temple 383Sri Mariamman Temple (Penang)

407Sri Mariamman Temple

(Singapore) 619Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 621Sukhothai Historical Park 681-2Sule Paya 486Sze Ya Temple 383Ta Prohm 97Temple of Literature 813

Thanboddhay Paya 530That Phanom 721Thian Hock Keng Temple 619Tua Pek Kong Temple 460Wat Arun 649Wat Banan 104Wat Chai Wattanaram 676Wat Ek Phnom 104Wat Kiri Sela 122Wat Nokor 123Wat Ounalom 68Wat Pa Sak 701Wat Phanan Choeng 676Wat Phnom 67Wat Pho 649Wat Phra Kaew 648, 696Wat Phra Mahathat 675Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat

678, 679Wat Phra Si Sanphet 675Wat Phra That Mae Yen 702Wat Phu Champasak 363Wat Si Saket 313Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram 720Wat Tham Seua 762Wat Thmei 83Wat Traimit 649Wat Wisunarat 329Wat Xieng Thong 329Yadana Man Aung Paya 506

Tentena 281-2terrorism 921-2Tet 20, 374Tha Khaek 353-5, 722Thai calendar 781Thailand 42, 644-786, 646-7, 8, 10,

22, 27, 32accommodation 778-9arts 657, 776-7border crossings (to Cambodia)

669, 729border crossings (to Laos) 703,

720, 721, 722, 724border crossings (to Malaysia) 751,

770, 771border crossings (to Myanmar)

701, 710, 712, 753business hours 779climate 644culture 644, 774-5electricity 780embassies 780-1emergencies 645, 668environment 777etiquette 690, 775festivals 657, 664, 691, 718, 720,

723, 781food & drink 644, 645, 715, 778history 772-4

INDEX T-V

971holidays 782itineraries 645language 645, 675, 951-2money 645, 668politics 772population 775religion 776safe travel 740, 780travel seasons 644travel to/from 645, 783-5travel within 785-6visas 645, 782-3

That Phanom 721theft 930Three Pagodas Pass 710ticks 945tigers 350Timor-Leste 45, 787-806, 789, 15

accommodation 803activities 803border crossings (to Indonesia) 798business hours 803climate 787culture 787, 801-2currency 803embassies 804emergencies 788environment 802food 803history 799-801holidays 804-5itineraries 788language 788, 792, 951money 788politics 799population 801-2religion 802safe travel 804travel seasons 787travel to/from 788, 805travel within 806visas 788, 805

Tinh Bien 79, 888Tioman, see Pulau TiomanTirta Gangga 211-12Togean Islands 282-3toilets 930tombs 18, 242-4, 257, 846, see also

cemeteriesTomohon 285Tonlé Bati 80Tonlé Sap 137Toraja people 281tourist information 930tours, see also boat tours, walking

toursBrunei Darussalam 53, 58Cambodia 68, 86, 92, 114, 118-19, 129

Indonesia 166, 177, 211, 229, 246, 249, 253, 270

Laos 327, 332-3, 339, 346, 348-9, 350, 360

Malaysia 398, 401, 421, 432, 436, Myanmar (Burma) 503 Philippines 581, 583-4, 590, Singapore 629-30Thailand 657, 682, 689, 703, 706,

736, 738, 740, 755, 758, Timor-Leste 806Vietnam 831-2, 842-3, 846-7, 858,

865, 869, 906, 907-8train travel 429, 934Tram Ton Pass 838Trang 768-9Trang Islands 769-70Transjakarta Busway 162transport to/from Southeast Asia

932-3transport within Southeast Asia

933-4Trapaeng Plong 125Trapaeng Sre 125Trapeang Kriel 127, 365Trat 727-8trekking 18, 31-33

Cambodia 129, 130Indonesia 148, 229, 264-5Laos 337, 373Malaysia 418, 430-1, 466Myanmar (Burma) 508Thailand 697, 705Timor-Leste 803Vietnam 808, 831

trouble spots 428, 595, 921-4tsunami (2004) 266, 915tubing 264, 325, 326-7, 338, 373turtles 274, 421, 827Tutuala 796typhoid 944

UUbon Ratchathani 720-2Ubud 204-10, 205, 206Udomxai 345-6Udon Thani 724Ujung Padang, see Makassar (Ujung

Padang)Ulu Watu 200-1, 200unexploded ordnance 105, 132, 142,

317, 341, 930

Vvacations, see holidaysvaccinations 942Vang Tao 362, 720Vang Vieng 325-9, 325, 326

Vanimo 291vegetarian festival 23, 664Venilale 796via ferrata 442Vieng Xai 344Vientiane 313-25, 724, 318

accommodation 317-20attractions 313drinking 321food 320-1shopping 322travel to/from 323-4travel within 324-5

Vietnam 45, 807-908, 810-11, 9, 10, 11, 19, 27, 32

accommodation 899-900arts 896books 894 border crossings (to Cambodia)

874, 883, 888, 889border crossings (to China) 834,

837border crossings (to Laos) 828,

829, 840, 841, 847, 848, 859business hours 900climate 807culture 807, 896embassies 900-1emergencies 823environment 898-9festivals 856food & drink 807, 819, 897-8history 893-6holidays 902itineraries 25, 26, 29, 808language 808, 952money 808politics 897population 893safe travel 902travel seasons 807travel to/from 808, 904-5travel within 905-8visas 903

Vietnam War 338, 340, 370, 895Vigan 570Vinh Long 886Vinh Xuong 79, 888Viqueque 796Virachey National Park 130visas 17, 930, see also individual

countriesVisayas, the 577-95, 578Voen Kham 365Voen Sai 129volcanoes

Camiguin 597Gunung Batur 212Gunung Bromo 186-8

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

INDEX V

-Z

972Gunung Merapi 181Gunung Sibayak 260Gunung Sinabung 260Ijen 189Kawah Sikidang 169Krakatau 246Mt Mayon 573-4Taal Volcano 566

volunteering 41Cambodia 144Indonesia 306-7Malaysia 479Myanmar (Burma) 547Philippines 571, 611Singapore 641Thailand 718, 723, 783Timor-Leste 805Vietnam 904

WWaikabubak 244Waingapu 242-3Wakai 283walking tours

Battambang 101Manila 559Penang 407Singapore 629

Wamena 292water puppetry 822, 880, 897wayang 174weather 16, 20-4, 30-3

weights & measures 608, 781West Kalimantan 269-72West Timor 239-42whale sharks 552, 574, 595, 739Whitesand Island 498white-water rafting, see raftingwildlife sanctuaries

Bohorok Orang-Utan Viewing Centre 264

Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue Station 884Elephant Nature Park 689Endangered Primate Rescue

Center 827Jurong Bird Park 627Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey

Sanctuary 445Matang Wildlife Centre 459Peam Krasaop Wildlife Sanctu-

ary 108Philippine Tarsier Sanctuary 592Phong Nha primate reserve 842Phnom Tamao Wildlife Sanctuary

80Phuket Gibbon Rehabilitation

Centre 756Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation

Centre 444-5Taman Negara 431Turtle Conservation Center 827

women travellers 931Brunei Darussalam 60Laos 376Malaysia 479

Myanmar (Burma) 547Singapore 641Timor-Leste 805

Wonosobo 168-9work 144, 376, 783, 931WWOOF 571

XXa Mat 125Xa Xia 123, 889Xe Bang Fai Cave 355

YYangon (Rangoon) 486-96, 487,

490-1, 494, 496-7accommodation 487-8attractions 486-7clubbing 491drinking 490-1food 488-90, 492shopping 491travel to/from 493-5travel within 495-6

Yogyakarta 169-77, 170, 173Youyi Guan 834

ZZamboanga 444, 595, 596zip lining 350, 360, 592, 756zoos 385, 435, 625, 627

973

Walking TourDetour

Walking Tour

Path

Beach

Diving/Snorkelling

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

DrinkingCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder CrossingBus

CyclingFerryMetroMonorailParkingPetrol StationTaxiTrain/RailwayTramOther Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier

Beach/Desert

Cemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

Top Sight(Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital(State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity/Course/Tour

BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

PedestrianOverpass

Secondary

Unsealed Road

Tunnel

Cable Car/Funicular

Sights

Activities, Courses& Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking

Information

Transport Geographic

Hydrography

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956 Behind the Scenes

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interest-ing anecdotes: Karin Åkerman, Michael Allsopp, Monica Angulo, Benjamin Back, Jacqui Barfoot, Peter Berende, Christian Berker, Gerard Boekel, Travis Bogle, Thomas Cahill, Hannah Carnegie, Felipe Castro, Reynaldo Chialendra, Isabel Coghe, Lucy Crane, Kristin Czernietzki, Miquel Dalmau, Delphine, Martina Dempsey, Rosalinda A Di Stefano, Philipp Drachenberg, Donna-Lee Fancy, Daniel Garcia, Wayne Geerling, Antony Gillingham, Brook Glanville, Dagmar Goehring, Nathaniel Grabman, Andreas Hagan, Gina Haschke, Thomas Jusjong Kull Henriksen, Carlos Hernandez, Andy Herrmann, Damon Horrell, Nicole Jacobson, Joris Jan Voermans, Jeremy Johnson, Simon Jungo, David Kennemer, Justin Klein, Robert Kovacs, M Lambert, Geugje Luik, Michael Magee, Kevin Mannion, Alan Matis, Andrew Mazur, David Menkes, Wouter Meyers, Jason Miller, Katie Miller, John Moloney, Astrid Mrkich, Caroline Murray-Lyon, Kelly Ng, Elisabeth Nielsen, Micheal O’Dea, Viktor Olsson, Denise O’Riordan, Lourie Parel, Elizabeth Pomerantz, Marin Postel, Matt Price, Kimberley Robson, Joseph Ronsyn, Vicki Rothwell, Rebecka Rudström, James Sabin, Daniel Salt,

Gunnar Schaefer, Adam Schmidt, Doris Schneidtinger, Ken Silver, Alexander Spivack, Simone Straub, Thibault, Seth Thibault, Morgan Tipper, Amy Tran, Anthony Treadwell, Eline Thijssen, Thijs van den Burg, Alexandra von Muralt, Jim Wallen, David Webb, Sean Wickham, Monica Wilcox, Philipp Winterberg, Inga Wohlleben, Michael Wu, William Wu, Lina Yang, Luis Gutierrez Zapata.

AUTHOR THANKS China Williams Thanks ever so much to Nong who was a wonderful second mother to Felix and a good ‘wife’ to me. Many thanks to Lisa on Ko Chang and Chris and Gae in Hua Hin for showing me around. Felix sends his love to the gals at Seven Hotel (Kan, Goong and Pa too). To Mason and Jane for the brain dump and welcome dinner; Joe and Kong for coff ee talk; and Ruengsang for her savoir-faire. And to my husband who survived so long without us; it is good to be home. Final shout-out to Southeast Asia’s seasoned co-authors (y’all are beginning to feel like family) and the LP crew.

Greg Bloom The cumulative knowledge of my barkada in Manila was elemental as usual. A special nod to the Edes, Donahue, Fitzpatrick and Blythe

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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clans for putting me up; to Johnny Weekend for tagging along (and researching typhoon travel between Romblon and Batangas); to Glen for the research company on the Boracay-to-PG route; to Peng for the QC bar tour; and to Anna for keeping me sane on the world’s worst deadline. Thanks also to her mama for holding down the fort.

Celeste Brash Thanks to my family for eating so much soup, to Peck Choo Ho and Brandon Tan for durian, Joann Khaw for chicken feet, Eawasian for fl at beer and great curry, Emre Sirakaya for sha-mans, Stephan and Leonie for history, John Wilson for being Irish, Sean Low for hiking fast, Alison and Narelle for style and la famille Pon-ton for papaya and pictures. Thanks to China and Ilaria for organisation and innovation and to Daniel Robinson for Borneo and baby pics.

Stuart Butler First and foremost I must thank my wife, Heather, for her patience and understand-ing on this project and to my baby son Jake for putting up with his daddy going away for so long. Thanks also to my parents for their babysitting skills when my wife joined me on the road and to Gui Girbon for tackling One Palm Point with me. Finally, thank you to all the wonderful Indonesians and to my, equally wonderful, fellow travellers for their advice, tips and just general good company.

Jayne D’Arcy Thanks to the ever-helpful and cheerful Tracey Morgan, Friends of Suai’s Pat Jesson and Friends of Los Palos’ Linda Wimetal and Barb Godfrey. Also to Julio Cardoso in Mali-ana and Tony Armindo in Dili. Thanks again to Sharik Billington and Miles.

Shawn Low As always thanks to the CE: Ilaria for believ-ing, hiring and being just generally cool. Cheers also to CA: China (yet another one done and dusted!). Thanks to the LP crew who are working on this: eds, cartos, MEs, LDs etc. I’ve been behind the scenes and know how hard you all work. Big props to co-author Daniel. It was good hanging out. To everyone else I might have forgotten: apologies in advance. Will buy you a round of Tiger if you remind me next time our paths cross. This book will always bear bittersweet memories...

Brandon Presser As always, a big thank you to the Bambridges for providing the best home-away-from-home on the (lonely) planet. At LP, special thanks to China Williams and Ilaria Walker.

Nick Ray As always a heartfelt thanks to the people of the Mekong region, whose warmth and hu-

mour, stoicism and spirit make it a humbling place to be. Biggest thanks are reserved for my lovely wife Kulikar Sotho and to our young children Julian and Belle for enlivening our lives immeasurably. Thanks to fellow travel-lers and residents, friends and contacts in the Mekong region who have helped shaped my knowledge and experience in this country. There is no room to thank everyone, but you all know who you are.

Simon Richmond I was very fortunate on this project to work with a brilliant team of authors and have en-couraging support from Ilaria, David, Bruce and the editorial crew at LP HQ. A huge thanks to Scotty Lazar and Michelle St Clair for their hospitality, indefatigable William Myatwunna, his colleague Richard Soe Myint and my driv-er Chan Ko. I also very much appreciate the time granted and expertise shared by many Burma experts and fellow travellers.

Daniel Robinson Literally hundreds of people went out of their way to make this a better book, but I’m especially indebted to (in alphabetical order) Al Davies, Captain David (Bennet), Donald & Marina Tan, Eric & Annie Yap, Glenn & Kat van Zutphen, Jessie from the Sibu tourist offi ce, Kelvin Egay, Mrs Lee of Miri, Philip Yong, Rudy Chong and the people of Bario. I dedicate my chapters to my ever-supportive wife Rachel and our beloved son Yair, who’s almost one year old.

Adam Skolnick I’m forever indebted to my good friends in Bali, Nusa Tenggarra and Papua who always make me feel at home. This time around big thanks are owed to Astrid and Grace, Marcus and Harriett, and Simon and Jane on Gili T, Rosa on Gili Air, Church, Paul and the Wicked team in LBJ, my Sumba family at Pantai Oro, and to the great Edwin Lerrick in Kupang. Thanks also to Dex and Mel and the Papua Paradise team in the Raja Ampats, and Kazu-taka Fujiwara in Wamena.

Iain Stewart Many thanks to Ilaria and the Melbourne team for inviting me aboard and China for steering the ship along a steady course. It was great to work with Nick, Peter and Brett in Vietnam. I was greatly aided by kings of the highway Vinh Vu and Mark Wyndham, Ben and Bich in Phong Nha, Tam in Dong Ha, and a great crew in Hoi An including the Dive Bar posse, Ludo, Neil and Caroline and Dzung the tennis ace.

Ryan Ver Berkmoes This list just seems to grow. Many thanks to friends like Hanafi , Jeremy Allan, Eliot Cohen, Jamie James, Kerry and Milton Turner, Ibu

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958Cat, Patricia Miklautsch, Pascal & Pika, Neal Harrison, ace fi lmmaker Dean Allen Tolhurst and the tireless Abba and Michael. At LP, thanks to my buddy Ilaria Walker and the entire publishing and production teams for guidance, understanding and the ability to fi x a lot of bad spelling. Co-authors Adam Skolnick and Stuart Butler rock.

Richard Waters Special thanks to my fi ance Ali and kids Finn and Aggie who watch me disappear with a pack on my back at regular intervals. Thanks too to my commissioning ed, Ilaria Walker who sends me to interesting places, mostly involving mosquitoes. In Laos my thanks to Michel Marcel Saada, Matt Verborg, Vong, Somkiad, Derek Beattie, Sousath Travel, WWF, Green Discovery, COPE, MAG and Mark at Apple Regent St who fi xed my Mac before this trip.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 44.

Illustrations p94 and p95 by Javier Zarracina.

Cover photography: (main) People crossing U Bien’s bridge at sunset/Jane Sweeney/Lonely Planet Images; (inset above) Monks at Shwe Yaunghwe Kyaung temple, Myanmar/John Elk III/Lonely Planet Images; (inset centre) Longtail boat, Krabi, Thailand/KKR/Image Broker; (inset below) Túk-túk in Bangkok, Thailand/Jean-Pierre Lescourret/Lonely Planet Images

Many of the images in this guide are avail-able for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com.

This Book This is the 16th edition of Southeast Asia on a Shoestring. The 1st edition was written by Tony and Maureen Wheeler in 1975, funded by the cult success of their first guidebook, Across Asia on the Cheap, a compilation of journey notes put together back in 1973. As the scope of the book grew, so did the need to share the load: this edition is the work of 14 authors. Coordinating author extra ordinaire China Williams led a stellar team: Greg Bloom, Celeste Brash, Stuart Butler, Jayne D’Arcy, Shawn Low, Brandon Presser, Nick Ray, Simon Richmond, Daniel Robinson, Adam Skolnick, Iain Stewart, Ryan Ver Berkmoes and Richard Waters. Original research for Indonesia was provided by Stuart Butler and Adam Skol nick. Original Malaysia research was provided by Celeste Brash, Adam Karlin and Simon Richmond. Original research for Myanmar (Burma) was provided by Austin Bush and Mark Elliott. Origin al

research for the Philippines was provided by Michael Grosberg, Trent Holden and Adam Karlin. Original Thailand research was provided by Mark Beales, Tim Bewer, Celeste Brash, Austin Bush and Alan Murphy. Original research for Timor-Leste was provided by Rodney Cocks. Original research for Vietnam was provided by Brett Atkinson, Peter Dragicevic and Nick Ray. The Health chapter was adapted from an original chapter written by Dr Trish Batchelor. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Ilaria WalkerCoordinating Editors Nigel Chin, Catherine Naghten, Martine Power, Kate WhitfieldCoordinating Carto-grapher Diana Von HoldtCoordinating Layout Designer Jacqui Saunders Managing Editor Bruce Evans

Managing Cartographer David Connolly, Amanda Sierp Managing Layout Designer Jane Hart Assisting Editors Gordon Farrer, Emma Gilmour, Paul Harding, Kristin Odijk, Alison Ridgway, Ross Taylor, Fionn Twomey, Simon Williamson Assisting Cartographers Jane Chapman, Valentina Krementchutskaya, Anthony Phelan, Mick Garrett, Sophie Reed, Csanad CsutorosCover Research Naomi Parker Internal Image Research Aude VauconsantLanguage Content Branislava Vladisavljevic, Annelies Mertens

Thanks to Elin Berglund, Laura Crawford, Brigitte Ellemor, Ryan Evans, James Hardy, Evan Jones, Yvonne Kirk, Trent Paton, Laura Stansfeld, Navin Sushil, Gerard Walker

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